PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – SOUTH & EAST COAST
As you travel around the south of Peninsular Malaysia and up the east coast, the communities you encounter become more laid-back, more Malay and more Islamic. Headscarves, skullcaps and the hauntingly melodious call to prayer are as ubiquitous here as the white-sand beaches that fringe the coast and jewel-like islands.
Johor Bahru
%07 / Pop 1,448,000
After years of being criticised as a dirty, chaotic border town, Johor’s capital city of Johor Bahru (JB for short) has been repaved and replanted and is well on the way to rebranding itself. Most travellers skip southern Malaysia’s largest city, but for intrepid souls there’s a handful of worthwhile museums, temples and mosques, shopping and party zones.
1Sights
Arulmigu Sri RajakaliammanHINDU TEMPLE
(Glass Temple; 22 Lorong 1; RM10; 
h1-5pm) 
F
Step through the looking glass into this wonderland of a temple built from mirrors, glass and metal – not a single inch of the vaulted roof or wall has been left unadorned. The temple is dedicated to Kali, known as the goddess of time, change, power and destruction.
Heritage DistrictARCHITECTURE
Wandering around the heritage area between Jln Ibrahim and Jln Ungku Puan is a real highlight of Johor Bahru. Walk past colourful old shophouses filled with barbers, Ayurvedic salons, sari shops, gorgeous temples, a few modern-art galleries and old-style eateries.
Royal Abu Bakar MuseumMUSEUM
(%07-223 0555; Jln Ibrahim)
The marvellous Istana Besar, once the Johor royal family’s principal palace, was built in Victorian style by Anglophile sultan Abu Bakar in 1866. It was opened as a museum to the public in 1990 and displays the incredible wealth of the sultans. It’s now the finest museum of its kind in Malaysia, and the 53-hectare palace grounds (free entry) are beautifully manicured. At the time of research the museum was getting an extensive remodelling..
4Sleeping & Eating
Replacement LodgeHOSTEL$$
(www.facebook.com/thereplacementlodgeandkitchen; 33-34 Jln Dhoby; d RM170; 
a
W)
This small hostel (there are only six rooms) is one of the only hostels in the old heritage area of Johor Bahru. With Nordic-inspired interiors (think whitewashed walls, light wooden furnishings and sporadic pot plants), rooms are light-filled and comfy. Its location near a mosque can mean an early morning wake-up call for light sleepers. Breakfast is served in the great little cafe on the bottom floor.
Restoran Reaz CornerINDIAN$
(www.facebook.com/pg/restoranreazcorner; 24A Jln Dhoby, cnr Jln Duke; RM3-12.50; h24hr)
You can’t go wrong with the yellow rice topped with spicy chicken curry at this clean, open-air curry joint. The ginger tea is a not-to-be-missed-nor-soon-forgotten accompaniment. If you’re here for breakfast, it’s hard to go past the lovely flaky roti.
Medan Selera Meldrum WalkHAWKER$
(Meldrum Walk; meals from RM3; h5pm-late)
Every late afternoon, the little food stalls crammed along this alley (parallel to Jln Meldrum) start frying up everything from ikan bakar (grilled fish) to laksa. Wash down your meal with fresh sugar-cane juice or a Chinese herbal jelly drink. Nothing here is excellent, but it’s all good.
8Information
Tourism Malaysia (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-224 4133; www.malaysia.travel; JB Sentral; h10am-10pm) At the CIQ complex, right after you pass through immigration from Singapore.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
JB is served by the Senai International Airport (%07-599 4500; www.senaiairport.com), 32km northwest of JB. Senai International Airport is linked to the city centre by regular shuttle buses (RM8, 45 minutes) that run from the bus station at Kotaraya 2 Terminal. A taxi between the airport and JB is RM50, taking 30 to 45 minutes depending on traffic.
GETTING TO INDONESIA: JOHOR BAHRU TO BATAM & BINTAN (RIAU ISLANDS)
Getting to the border There are several daily departures to Batam (one way RM69, 1½ hours) and Tanjung Pinang Bintan (one way RM86, 2½ hours), part of Indonesia’s Riau Islands. Ferries depart from the Berjaya Waterfront Ferry Terminal (%07-221 1677; www.berjayawaterfront.com.my; 88 Jln Ibrahim Sultan, Zon Ferry Terminal), which is serviced by several buses from downtown Johor Bahru.
At the border You’ll be charged a RM10 seaport tax, RM2 insurance and RM3 fuel surcharge (total RM15) on top of your ticket price and stamped out of Malaysia before you board the boat in JB.
BUS
Larkin Sentral (Larkin Bus Terminal; Jln Garuda) is about 5km north of town and is the main terminal for long-distance buses departing to greater Malaysia.
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | Duration (hr) |
|---|---|---|
| Butterworth | 80 | 9 |
| Melaka | 21 | 3 |
| Muar | 17 | 3 |
| Kuala Lumpur | 35 | 4½ |
| Mersing | 13 | 2½ |
| Kuantan | 29 | 6 |
| Kuala Terengganu | 49 | 9 |
JB Sentral Bus Terminal (Jln Jim Quee) is located beside the JB Sentral Railway, and services local and regional buses as well as buses to and from Singapore.
TAXI
JB’s long-distance taxi station is at Larkin Sentral, 5km north of town, from where taxis to Singapore (Larkin Sentral, Jln Garuda) leave (S$48 per taxi).
Some other taxi destinations and approximate costs (share taxi with four passengers) include:
AKuala Lumpur (RM440)
AKukup (RM80)
AMelaka (RM280)
AMersing (RM170)
TRAIN
Daily express trains on KTM Intercity (%03-2267 1200; www.ktmb.com.my; JB Sentral) leave from the sparkling JB Sentral station in the CIQ complex. You’ll have to catch the rather old, slow, single-track line to Gemas, before boarding the new fast-train ETS service, which runs all the way to Padang Besar. ETS operates as part of KTM Intercity so tickets can be purchased at the KTM counter. The line passes through Tampin (for Melaka), Seremban, KL Sentral, Tapah Rd (for Cameron Highlands), Ipoh, Taiping and Butterworth. Ekspres Rakyat Timuran, known as the ‘jungle train’, runs daily to Tumpat: you can board this service for Jerantut (for Taman Negara) and Kuala Lipis.
GETTING TO SINGAPORE: JOHOR BAHRU TO SINGAPORE
At JB Sentral you can clear immigration and travel across the Causeway to Singapore.
Getting to the border From central JB, board your bus after clearing Malaysian immigration just before the Causeway – you can buy your tickets on board. There are also frequent buses between JB’s Larkin Sentral bus station, 5km north of the city, and Singapore’s Queen St bus station. Causeway Link (www.causewaylink.com.my; from JB/Singapore RM3.40/S$3.30; h4am-midnight) is the most convenient service. Trans Star Cross Border Coaches (www.regentstar.travel/crossborder) run between Johor Bahru CIQ and Singapore’s Changi Airport, embarking in the Terminal 2 coach area.
Registered Taxis depart from Larkin Sentral, with taxis to Orchard Rd or Queen St terminal costing around RM60. Local city taxis cannot cross the Causeway.
KTM Intercity has trains (RM5) to take you from JB Sentral to Woodlands in Singapore; these run every few hours between 8am and 11pm. You’ll go through passport checks and switch to the Singapore metro system at Woodlands.
At the border All buses and taxis stop at Malaysian immigration. You’ll need to disembark from your vehicle with your luggage (and ticket), clear immigration and reboard. Vehicles then stop at Singapore immigration; again, clear immigration with your luggage, before getting back in your vehicle for the last leg to Queen St bus station. There are tourism information offices and money exchanges at the border.
Moving on At Queen St there are buses, taxis and an MRT (light rail) system that can take you almost anywhere you need to go in the city.
For more information on making this crossing in reverse see here.
Mersing
%07 / Pop 70,000
This busy, compact fishing town has everything that travellers passing through on their way to the islands might need: OK sleeping options, shops, cold beers, even a laundry. Take an afternoon to revel in views of the hilltop mosque, hike out to the nearby green areas or just reconnect with mainland life.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel EmbassyHOTEL$
(%07-799 3545; 2 Jln Ismail; r RM60; aW)
A fabulous choice compared with the other cheapies in town, this is a great place to clean up and get back to reality after bumming it on island beaches. All rooms are huge and bright, and have cable TV, turbo-charged air-con and attached bathrooms.
Zeeadam BackpackersHOSTEL$
(%019-740 3456, 07-7991280; ahmadzamani_77@yahoo.com; 1C-1 Jln Abu Bakar; dm RM20; 
iW)
The only true backpacker place in town, the Zeeadam has just two dorm rooms, sleeping six to eight people on ultra-firm beds. There’s a little TV and a hangout chill area at this second-storey spot that is short on charms but long on value.
Loke Tien Yuen RestaurantCHINESE$
(55 Jln Abu Bakar; mains RM8-20; h12.30-3pm & 6.45-8.30pm Sat-Wed; a)
Mersing’s oldest Chinese restaurant is one of the friendliest and busiest places in town. You may have to wait for a marble table to enjoy the deliciously prepared prawn and pork dishes. The speciality, whole steamed fish that you’ll see the locals eating, isn’t on the menu so ask your server.
8Getting There & Away
Most buses as well as long-distance taxis depart from the bus station near the bridge on the river, although a few long-distance buses leave from bus-company offices near the pier. Some buses will drop you off at the pier when you arrive in Mersing if you ask nicely. For buses to Cherating, travel first to Kuantan.
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Johor Bahru | 13 | 2½ |
| Kuala Lumpur | 40 | 5½ |
| Kuala Terengganu | 38 | 9 |
| Kuantan | 19 | 5 |
| Melaka | 25 | 4 |
| Singapore | 16 | 3 |
| Penang | 80 | 10 |
You can connect by ferry for Tioman and other islands. Purchase tickets and pay the marine park entrance fee (RM30) at the new Mersing Harbour Centre (Jln Abu Bakar; h5am-10pm) opposite the jetty entrance.
Pulau Tioman
%09 / Pop 4000
Sitting like an emerald dragon guarding the translucent waters of the South China Sea, Tioman Island offers every possible shade of paradise. There’s cascading waterfalls, rigorous jungle hikes, laid-back villages, and then there’s the sea, beckoning you to paddle, snorkel, dive and sail. At 20km long and 11km wide, the island is so spacious that your ideal holiday spot is surely here somewhere. Tekek, Tioman’s largest village and its administrative centre, is where ferries arrive from Mersing (in Johor) and Tanjung Gemok (in Pahang).
1Sights & Activities
Beaches
Most budget accommodation is clustered in Air Batang (ABC) and Salang on the northern end of the west coast. Salang has wider stretches of sand and is the most backpacker-esque of Tioman’s kampung, while ABC is slightly more upscale. On Tioman’s east coast Juara has a stunning beach, surfing during the monsoon, and affordable accommodation. Other small beaches reachable only by boat run south along the west coast.
Juara Turtle ProjectVOLUNTEERING
(%09-419 3244; www.juaraturtleproject.com; Mentawak beach, Kampung Juara; tour RM10, dm RM120; h10am-5pm) 
S
This voluntourism operation works to protect declining sea-turtle populations by collecting eggs and moving them to a hatchery, and patrolling the beaches for poachers and predators. Anyone can tour the facility to learn more about the area’s turtles, which nest here February to October, with public releases June through November.
Volunteers (accepted March to October) get basic dorm accommodation and full board. When you’re not working on patrols and participating in information seminars, activities including sea kayaking, treks and cooking classes. There’s a minimum four-night stay in dorm accommodation.
Diving & Snorkelling
There is good snorkelling off the rocky points on the west coast of the island, particularly those just north of ABC, but the best snorkelling is around nearby Pulau Tulai, better known as Coral Island. Snorkelling equipment for hire is easy to find (masks and snorkels are typically RM15 per day) at many places on the island. Snorkelling trips with boat transfers cost RM40 to RM100.
There are plenty of excellent dive centres on Tioman, and Open Water Diver (OWD) certification courses are priced competitively. Expect to pay about RM1100 to RM1200 for a four-day PADI OWD course and RM120 to RM130 for fun dives. Discover dives (beginner dives that do not require pre-certification and include basic instruction) cost RM200 to RM250 for a half-day course.
Hiking
Jungle-swathed Tioman offers plenty of excellent hikes to keep the intrepid landlubber exhausted and happy. While you can easily take on most hikes by yourself, guided jungle trips (arranged through your accommodation) give you a curated look at the island’s unique flora and fauna, and cost around RM100 for a half-day.
4Sleeping & Eating
Budget accommodation largely comprises small wooden chalets, typically with a bathroom, fan and mosquito net. More expensive rooms have air-con and hot showers. Most operations have larger family rooms for those with children.
Johan’s ResortBUNGALOW$
(%09-419 1359; Kampung Air Batang/ABC; dm/chalet/f RM25/60/120)
A friendly, welcoming place offering tons of information. The two four-bed dorms up the hillside are decent value; the chalets are pretty much the same as other cheapies on the beach.
Mokhtar’s PlaceBUNGALOW$
(%019-704 8299; www.mokhtarplace.blogspot.com; Kampung Air Batang/ABC; s & d with fan RM40-60, d with air-con RM100-220; aW)
Great budget value, this cluster of 16 bungalows along the beach south of town features little patios and mozzie nets. If the wind’s just right, you can catch a cooling ocean breeze at night.
BushmanCHALET$
(%09-419 3109; bushmanchalets@outlook.my; Barok beach, Kampung Juara; r RM100-150; aW)
Nabbing one of Bushman’s eight varnished wood bungalows, with their inviting wicker-furnished terraces, is like winning the Juara lottery – reserve in advance! The location is right up against the boulder outcrop at the southern end of Barok beach.
Ella’s PlaceCHALET$
(%014-844 8610, 09-419 5004; Kampung Salang; chalets RM60-200; aW)
There’s usually a lounge-able patch of sand at this cute-as-a-button, family-run place at the quiet northern end of the beach. There are 10 clean bungalows (some with air-con) and a small cafe.
oRainbow ChaletsCHALET$$
(%012 989 8572; rainbow.chalets1980@gmail.com; Barok beach, Kampung Juara; s or d RM120, tr RM160; aW)
Eight colourful bungalows await you at this friendly place. All come with wooden porches, decorated with shells and coral, which provide direct access to the beach and glorious views of the South China Sea.
Nazri’s PlaceGUESTHOUSE$$
(%017-490 1384; www.nazrisplace.net; Kampung Air Batang/ABC; r incl breakfast RM120-200; aW)
At the far southern end of the beach, which has some of ABC’s best sand, this place has clean rooms and a wide range of accommodation. The sea-view rooms are cheaper and more basic, while the upscale rooms have an almost business vibe, save for the pleasant patios that look onto a lush garden.
8Information
Tioman’s sole ATM (Tekek; h24 hrs) is across from Tekek’s airport and takes international cards. It’s been known to run dry, so consider getting cash in Mersing. There’s a money-changer at the airport.
8Getting There & Away
Ferries (%014-988 4281; https://tiomanferryticket.com; 38 Jln Jeti; return RM70; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) from Mersing tend only to run early in the morning and are very much dependent on the tides. Several operators run boats, but only Gemilang/Bluewater Express (%09-413 1363; Tanjong Gemok Ferry Terimnal; one-way/return RM35/70) have services both from Mersing and Tanjung Gemok – you can go from one port and return to another which can be useful depending on your travel plans.
Book online to be sure of a ticket at busy times of year, such as during public and school holidays in Malaysia or Singapore. Also call for up-to-date sailing schedules – these tend to be erratic during monsoon season (November to February). Aim to be at the jetty at least one hour prior to departure – particularly if you haven’t pre-booked your ticket.
8Getting Around
Typical sea-taxi fares from Tekek:
AABC/Panuba (RM25)
AGenting (RM50)
ANipah (RM120)
AMukut (RM150)
APaya Beach (RM35)
ASalang (RM35).
Most hotels can arrange boat charter. Expect to pay around RM600 for a full day on a boat, and expect waters to be far rougher on the Juara side of Tioman.
If you have the time, you can explore some of the island on foot. Bicycles can be hired at guesthouses on all the main beaches (per hour/day RM5/30), and mopeds (per hour/day RM15/40) are a good bet for trips to Juara.
Taxis from Tekek to Juara cost RM70 to RM90.
Kuantan
%09 / Pop 354,400
Most travellers pause briefly in Pahang’s capital and Malaysia’s second-biggest port, to break up long bus trips. This is a shame; while the city isn’t especially geared towards tourism, it is definitely interesting enough to warrant a day or two of exploration. There’s the excellent Pahang Museum (%010 924 7134; www.pahangmuseums.com; Jln Masjid; adult/child RM4/free; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-12.15pm & 2.45-5pm Fri), the impressive Masjid Sultan Ahmad Shah (MAP GOOGLE MAP; State Mosque; %014 840 3802; Jln Masjid), many good places to eat and the nearby beach of Teluk Chempedak with upmarket resort accommodation.
4Sleeping & Eating
oClassic HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %09-516 4599; www.classhotelkuantan.com; 7 Bangunan LKNP, Jln Besar; r incl breakfast RM100-180; aW)
All rooms are spacious and clean (ask for a river view), with large bathrooms and all the mod cons. Central location, ample Malay-style breakfasts and considerate staff make this a top pick.
East Coast MallFOOD HALL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %09-565 8600; www.eastcoastmall.com.my; Jln Putra Sq; h10am-10pm)
An option for eating in a spick-and-span, air-conditioned Malay-style food court.
8Information
Lots of banks (many with 24-hour ATMs), including HSBC (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 1 Jln Mahkota) and Standard Chartered Bank (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 1-3 Jln Haji Abdul Aziz; W) are on or near the aptly named Jln Bank.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Sultan Ahmad Shah Airport (%09-531 2123; www.malaysiaairports.com.my) is 17km west of the city centre; a taxi here costs RM35. Malaysia Airlines has several daily direct flights to KLIA with plenty of onward connections from there. Firefly has two daily flights to/from Subang Airport in KL and four weekly flights to Singapore.
BUS & TAXI
Long-distance buses leave from Terminal Sentral Kuantan (TSK; Jln Pintasan Kuantan), about 20 minutes from the city centre (taxi RM20). The ticket offices, food court and left-luggage centre (RM2 per piece) are on the 2nd floor of the building.
Head to the local bus station (Hentian Bas Bandar Kuantan; 2704 Jln Stadium) for services to Pekan (RM4), Balok (RM4) and Beserah (RM2).
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Butterworth | 56 | 8½ |
| Jerantut | 18 | 3½ |
| Kota Bharu | 35 | 6 |
| Kuala Lipis | 29 | 6 |
| Kuala Lumpur | 24 | 4 |
| Kuala Terengganu | 20 | 4 |
| Melaka | 31 | 6 |
| Singapore | 48 | 6 |
Ask your hotel to order a long-distance taxi or grab one from in front of the Terminal Sentral Kuantan or the Central Market (MAP; Pasar Besar; 3 Jln Tun Ismail; h4am-6pm Mon-Sat). Approximate costs (per car): Cherating (RM60 to RM70), Jerantut (RM320), Johor Bahru (RM450), KL (RM350), Kuala Terengganu (RM250), Mersing (RM250).
Cherating
%09
With a sweeping white beach bordered by coconut palms, this small village of guesthouses and shops is a popular spot for surfing, windsurfing and general beachfront slacking. It has several beach bars and the best nightlife on Pahang’s coast. You can also see fireflies flicker at night on cruises along the Sungai Cherating and go turtle watching.
1Sights & Activities
Cherating’s bay has a long sandy shelf, making this a peaceful spot for swimming most of the year. Watch out for jellyfish in June and July.
Cherating’s beach isn’t great for snorkelling but places all around town offer half-day snorkelling tours to the aptly named Coral Island for around RM60.
Turtle SanctuaryANIMAL SANCTUARY
(%09-581 9087; Bukit Cherating; RM30; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)
The turtle sanctuary next to Club Med has a few basins with baby and rehabilitating green turtles, and can offer information about the laying and hatching periods.
4Sleeping & Eating
oKu Mimi CabletCHALET$
(%019-927 3871; https://m.facebook.com/kumimicablet; r fan/air-con from RM60/90; aW)
Cablet stands for cabin and chalet and that’s just what you’ll find at this sweet place located a short walk from the main road. The whitewashed wood chalets with attached bathrooms are simple and clean, while converted shipping containers make the cabins. Pluses are a shared kitchen and cool central hang-out.
oTanjung InnBUNGALOW$
(%09-581 9081; www.tanjunginn.com; safari tents RM50-70, r with fan RM106, r with air-con RM223-318; aW)
This highly recommended place offers wooden bungalows with decks set around a stunning lilypad-bedazzled pond surrounded by tall grass and fruit trees. All the bungalows have hot showers, and there’s an excellent lending library. There’s also a second landscaped pond surrounded by safari-style tents over mattresses on wooden palates for those who prefer to glamp.
Don’t Tell Mama Eco BarINTERNATIONAL$$
(%012 630 2543; Cherating Beach; mains RM25-55; h5.30pm-late) S
Don’t Tell Mama is best known for its legendary burgers but there are plenty of other options on the menu, including vegetarian ones. With its cool beachside shack set-up, reggae music and friendly service it’s easy to see why this is a top spot to relax in the evening.
8Getting There & Away
Whether travelling from the north or south by long-distance bus, you’ll first arrive at Terminal Sentral Kuantan. From there take bus 303 to Kuantan’s local bus station (RM2, 30 minutes) and transfer to bus 600 to Batok (RM4, 40 minutes), followed by bus 604 to Cherating Lama (Old Cherating; RM2, 20 minutes). Ask the driver to let you know when to get off.
It’s simpler and speedier to take a taxi from Kuantan (RM60; 45 minutes).
Kuala Terengganu
%09 / Pop 406, 317
A microcosm of Malaysia’s economic history: fishing village strikes oil, modernity ensues. Kuala Terengganu retains its charm despite the newly built skyscrapers. There’s a boardwalk, a couple of decent beaches, a few old kampong-style houses hidden among the high-rises, and one of eastern Peninsular Malaysia’s prettiest and most interesting Chinatowns. With seafood-heavy local cuisine and good transport links, KT is worth a day or two in between the islands and jungles.
1Sights
Centred on Jln Kampung Cina (also known as Jln Bandar), KT’s compact Chinatown features heritage buildings and temples, as well as watermarked buildings and alleys jazzed up with contemporary and quirky street art. Gentrification is in full swing with cafes, bars and gift shops opening up, but sleepy hardware shops and traditional Chinese medicinal-herb shops can also be found.
Worth seeking out are Turtle Alley (MAP; off Jln Kampung Cina), with mosaics telling the story of KT’s now-endangered turtles, and Pasar Payang Alley (MAP; Memory Lane), which commemorates local Chinese community leaders and famous Malays. Pick up the Chinatown Heritage Trail brochure at the tourist information office.
Central MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Pasar Payang; cnr Jln Kampung Cina & Jln Sultan Zainal Abidin; h6am-5pm)
The Central Market is a lively place to graze on exotic snacks, and the floor above the fish section has a wide collection of batik and kain songket (traditional handwoven fabric). Many stalls don’t operate on Fridays.
Bukit PuteriFORT
(MAP; Princess Hill; Jln Sultan Zainal Abidin; adult/child RM1/0.50; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu, to 3pm Fri)
Across the road from the Central Market, look for an escalator and steep flight of steps leading up to Bukit Puteri, a 200m-high hill with good views of the city. On top are the scant remains of a mid-19th-century fort, some cannons and a bell.
4Sleeping
KT Chinatown LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %09-6221 938, 013-9316 192; lawlorenz@gmail.com; 113 Jln Kampung Cina; r RM75-150; aW)
Right in the heart of Chinatown – and in proximity to nesting swiftlets – this two-storey guesthouse features simple but spotless rooms, and a warm welcome. The cheapest rooms have no windows, but all include multi-channel TV, private bathrooms and air-con. Retro black-and-white photos of Chinatown bolster the heritage ambience.
oJen’s HomestayAPARTMENT$$
(MAP; %019-957 8368; www.jenhomestay.weebly.com; 8-12 Pangsapuri Kampung Tiong, Jln Kampung Tiong; r from RM100; 
naW)
Friendly Jen’s has four rental apartments in this high-rise building, each with three bedrooms, a shared lounge, and balconies with washing machine and sweeping views across the river or towards the ocean. The entire apartment can be rented, or rent them just by the bedroom (the more expensive have an attached bathroom).
5Eating
T Homemade CafeCHINESE, MALAY$
(MAP; 214 Jln Kampung Cina; mains from RM5; h10am-5pm)
Take a shaded pavement seat and revive yourself during your Chinatown exploration at this buzzy cooperative of a few food stalls. You can try tasty Chinese dishes here, such as yummy roast chicken, duck and pork with rice, as well as fresh juices.
Chinatown Hawker CentreHAWKER$
(MAP; off Jln Kampung Tiong; h7am-11pm)
Chinatown’s outdoor hawker centre is divided into Chinese and Malay sections, and sizzles with cooking and socialising by day and night. You can get a chilled beer here and there’s a small morning craft and produce market too – well worth visiting for take-away foods.
8Information
You’ll find plenty of banks on Jln Sultan Ismail, including HSBC (%09-622 3100; 57 Jln Sultan Ismail), most have 24-hour ATMs that accept international cards.
Tourist Information Office (%09-622 1553; http://beautifulterengganu.com; Jln Sultan Zainal Abidin; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu) has helpful staff and good brochures and maps.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Sultan Mahmud Airport (%09-667 3666; www.malaysiaairports.com.my; Jln Lapangan Terbang) is around 11km north of the city centre. AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines have services to/from KLIA, while Firefly and Malindo Air connect with SkyPark Subang Terminal (also known as Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport), closer to Kuala Lumpur.
BUS & TAXI
The central bus station (Jln Masjid Abidin) is the terminus for both local buses and longer-distance express buses. Express bus companies at the station include Transnasional (MAP; %09-622 2700; www.transnasional.com.my), MARA Liner (MAP; %09-622 2097; www.maralinergroup.my), Sani Express (MAP; %09-622 2717; www.saniexpress.com.my) and SP Bumi (MAP; %09-623 7789; www.spbumi.com.my).
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | DURATION (APPROX HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Johor Bahru | 80 | 9 |
| Kota Bharu | 10 | 3 |
| Kuala Besut (Perhentians) | 10.80 | 2 |
| Kuala Lumpur | 44.20 | 8 |
| Kuantan | 9 | 5 |
| Melaka | 48 | 8 |
Kuala Terengganu’s main taxi stand is near the local bus station, but taxis can be found throughout the city.
Kuala Besut
Boats to Pulau Perhentian leave from the attractive seaside town of Kuala Besut. A bus from Kota Bharu is RM6, a taxi around RM70; both take two hours. The bus from Kuala Terengganu is RM10.80, and a taxi around RM120; again it takes around two hours. There is at least one daily bus from Kuala Lumpur (RM45, nine hours). Many travel agents run minibus services to Kuala Besut from tourist hotspots around Malaysia.
Pulau Perhentian
%09 / Pop 1300
Imagine crystal-clear waters, reflecting turquoise skies and perfect for diving and snorkelling, jungles thick and fecund, and beaches with blindingly white sand. At night, beach bonfires and phosphorescence in the water illuminate the velvety black fabric of darkness, and myriad stars are mirrored above. The Perhentians offer all this and more.
Your biggest dilemma on the Perhentians may well be choosing the right beach as your base. There are two main islands, Kecil (‘Small’), popular with the younger backpacker crowd, and Besar (‘Large’), with higher standards of accommodation and a more relaxed ambience. Boats can take you out to five smaller islands for day trips.
2Activities
With relatively shallow and calm waters, great visibility, and largely gentle currents, the Perhentian Islands are an ideal place to snorkel or learn to dive.
Most guesthouses organise snorkelling trips for around RM40 per person. Highlights include Turtle Point at the northern end of Besar’s Main Beach, and Shark Point on the island’s southwestern tip. For scuba divers, competition between many dive centres keeps prices keen. A PADI open-water course costs around RM1000.
There’s plenty of hiking on both islands. Some tracks can get washed out in heavy rains, so use common sense. Hot and humid is the norm, so bring plenty of water, and don’t hike at night without a torch (flashlight).
4Sleeping & Eating
4Pulau Kecil
Long Beach (Pulau Perhentian Kecil) offers the best variety of accommodation from bare-bones backpacker hostels to spiffy upmarket resorts – but it can get very noisy here with all the bars and beach parties. Coral Bay (Pulau Perhentian Kecil) has a good variety of accommodation in all budget brackets.
A 45-minute walk south takes you via RainForest Camping to Petani Beach (Pulau Perhentian Kecil) which offers a couple of upmarket resorts.
oD’Lagoon Chalet & RestaurantCHALET$
(%019-985 7089; www.dlagoon.my; Teluk Kerma, Pulau Perhentian Kecil; camp site RM15, dm RM25, r RM70-220, mains RM8-15; hrestaurant 7.45am-4pm & 7-10.30pm; aW)
Family-run D’Lagoon is the sole property on a tranquil bay with fine coral a short swim from the beach. Accommodation ranges from camping and a longhouse with dorm beds to simple stilt chalets. Activities include snorkelling, shark- and turtle-watching trips, jungle hikes to remote beaches and a free 200m flying fox.
The restaurant serves decent international and Malay food. Live local music can be arranged on request. Take a water taxi to reach here, otherwise it’s an hour’s hike from the Long Beach jetty.
Lemon Grass ChaletBUNGALOW$
(%012-956 2393; Long Beach, Pulau Perhentian Kecil; chalet RM60)
At the southern tip of Long Beach, Lemongrass offers a pair of no-frills wooden bungalows with shared bathrooms. There are great views from the verandah at reception and nice secluded spots to sit and gaze out to sea. All huts are the same price; try to get one with a sea view.
RainForest CampingCAMPGROUND$
(rainforestcamping.perhentian@gmail.com; Kampung Pasir Karang, Pulau Perhentian Kecil; camping RM50)
Simple tents resting on bamboo decks sit in a shady (and buggy) rainforest glade. Shared toilets and bathrooms are rudimentary, but the real attractions here are the perfect arc of beach and chilled vibe in the attached cafe.
oCrocodile Rock VillasVILLAS$$
(www.crocodilerockvillas.com; Kampung Pasir Karang, Pulau Perhentian Kecil; tent/villa from R250/315; hrestaurant 9-11am & 6.30-10pm; aW)
Run by a Malaysian-English couple, this is one heavenly crocodile. It’s a short walk south of Coral Beach; glampers will swoon over the three spacious safari-tents while flashpackers are just as well served by the handful of luxe wooden chalets, raised on stilts and with sea-facing balconies. An excellent restaurant serving Malay and international cuisine rounds out the package.
Panorama ChaletCHALET$$
(%09-6911590; www.panoramaperhentianisland.com; Long Beach, Pulau Perhentian Kecil; r RM120-250; aW)
A favourite with divers and snorkellers, Panorama is set back a short way from the sand. Rooms range from fan-cooled doubles to air-conditioned chalets. The family room has two queen-sized beds, near-wraparound windows, and a balcony.
4Pulau Besar
The big island’s two main bases are Main Beach (Pulau Perhentian Besar) and Teluk Dalam (Pulau Perhentian Besar). Both are more family-orientated than the sleeping locations on Kecil and offer a good range of accommodation to suit all budgets.
Samudra Beach ChaletBUNGALOW$
(%09-691 1677; www.samudrabeachchalet.com; Teluk Dalam, Pulau Perhentian Besar; r RM60-160; aW)
Samudra has traditional Malaysian A-frame bungalows. They are slightly dark on the inside, but the cheaper ones have fans. The air-conditioned family room with two double beds is a decent deal.
EcoMarine Perhentian Island ResortRESORT$$
(%011-1083 4729, 013-396 2245; https://ecomarineperhentian.com; Teluk Dalam, Pulau Perhentian Besar; camping per person RM20, dm/r from RM82/210; a)
At the far southwest end of the beach, EcoMarine offers one of the best accommodation deals in the Perhentians, if you’re up for camping. There’s also an air-conditioned dorm with a hot-water shower, as well as comfortable rooms in concrete bungalows facing the beach.
Reef ChaletsCHALET$$
(%09-691 1762; http://thereefperhentian.com; Main Beach, Pulau Perhentian Besar; chalet RM140-408; aW)
This family-owned resort offers a wide range of pleasant wood chalets set along the beach, and surrounding a beautifully maintained jungle garden featuring trees filled with occasional lemurs, monkeys, birds and bats. Many chalets have sea views; the cheapest are fan-cooled, the more expensive have air-conditioning.
The friendly owners rent out canoes and snorkelling equipment and can help you plan your stay.
8Information
The RM30 conservation fee for entering the marine park around the Perhentians is payable at the jetty in Kuala Besut.
There are no banks or ATMs on the islands. Free wi-fi is ubiquitous on both islands at accommodation and restaurants. If you’re planning on using your own smartphone, Celcom has the best 3G broadband coverage in the islands.
8Getting There & Around
Speedboats run several times a day between Kuala Besut and the Perhentians (return trip adult/child RM70/35, 30 to 40 minutes) from 8.30am to 5.30pm. Tickets are sold by travel agents around Kuala Besut. The boats will drop you off at any of the beaches. Expect delays or cancellations if the weather is bad or if there aren’t enough passengers.
In the other direction, speedboats depart from the islands daily at 8am, noon and 4pm. Let your guesthouse owner know a day before you plan on leaving so they can arrange a pickup. If the water is rough or tides are low, you may be ferried from the beach on a small boat to your mainland-bound craft; you’ll have to pay around RM5 for this.
While there are some trails around the islands, the easiest way to go from beach to beach or island to island is by boat. From island to island, the trip costs around RM15 to RM30, and a jaunt from one beach to another on the same island usually costs RM10 to RM15. There’s a minimum of two passengers (so double the rate if you’re a solo passenger). Prices also double after sunset.
Kota Bharu
%09 / Pop 491,200
Kota Bharu (KB) has the energy of a mid-sized city, the compact feel and friendly vibe of a small town, plus superb food and a good spread of accommodation. A logical overnight stop between Thailand and the Perhentians, KB is a good base for exploring Kelantan. The state’s villages are within day-tripping distance, and its crafts, cuisine and culture are present in the city itself.
1Sights
oStreetart GalleryPUBLIC ART
(MAP; off Jln Ismail) F
Not to be missed is this colourful display of street art covering a back alley between Jln Ismail and Jln Dato Pati. The depictions of smiling locals at work and play and idyllic jungle scenes are contrasted with graphic displays of conflict and suffering in Palestine.
Istana JaharMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Royal Ceremonies Museum; %09-748 2266; www.muzium.kelantan.gov.my; Jln Istana; adult/child RM3/1.50; h8.30am-4.45pm Sat-Wed, to 3.30pm Thu)
Kota Bharu’s best museum focuses on Kelatanese rituals and crafts. It’s also housed in a beautiful chocolate-brown building that dates back to 1887 and which is easily one of the most attractive traditional buildings in the city.
Istana BatuMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Royal Museum, Muzium Diraja; %09-748 7737; www.muzium.kelantan.gov.my; Jln Istana; adult/child RM4/2; h8.30am-4.45pm Sat-Wed, to 3.30pm Thu)
The pale-yellow building, constructed in 1939, was the crown prince’s palace until donated to the state. The richly furnished rooms of this museum give a surprisingly intimate insight into royal life, with family photos and personal belongings scattered among the fine china, chintzy sofas, and the late sultan’s collection of hats.
4Sleeping
My Place Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %013-9011 463; myplacekb@yahoo.com; 4340-R2 Jln Kebun Sultan; s/d RM35/50; aW)
Just a short stroll from Chinatown, My Place Guest House is a welcoming and friendly spot. Retro posters, including the Beatles and Che Guevara, punctuate the eclectically furnished interior, and the rooms are simple but clean.
KB Backpackers LodgeHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %019-944 5222, 09-748 8841; www.facebook.com/kbbackpackerslodge; 1872-D Tingat 1, Jln Padang Garong; dm/r from RM15/35; ai)
Owner Pawi is a wealth of information, dorms and rooms are simple but clean, there’s a rooftop terrace, and local city tours can be arranged.
Zeck’s Travellers InnHOMESTAY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %019-946 6655; http://zecktravellers.blogspot.my; 7088-F Jln Sri Cemerlang; dm/s/d from RM15/25/40, r with air-con RM50-80; aiW)
Zeck and Miriam Zaki’s home, located in a peaceful nook north of the city centre, is a great way to get a feel for genuine Malaysian kampung (village) life in the heart of Kota Bharu. Light meals and drinks are always at hand.
5Eating
Night MarketMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Parit Dalam; mains from RM5; h5-9pm)
The most popular spot for the best Malay food in town is KB’s night market. Specialities include ayam percik (marinated chicken on bamboo skewers) and nasi kerabu (blue rice with coconut, fish and spices), squid-on-a-stick and murtabak (pan-fried flat bread filled with everything from minced meat to bananas).
Shan Sri Dewi RestaurantINDIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %09-746 2592; www.facebook.com/shansridewi; 4213-F Jln Kebun Sultan; mains from RM8; h7am-9pm; 
v)
As popular with locals as it is with tourists, this is a great place for an authentic banana-leaf curry and a mango lassi. It also serves a terrific roti canai (flaky flatbread served with curry) in the morning and evening.
8Information
HSBC Bank (Jln Padang Garong; h10am-3pm Sat-Wed, 9.30-11.30am Thu) Centrally located with ATM.
Maybank (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Pintu Pong; 10am-7pm Sat-Thu) Has an ATM.
Kelantan Tourist Information Centre (%09-748 5534; www.facebook.com/tic.kelantan; Jln Sultan Ibrahim; h8am-5pm Sun-Wed, to 3.30pm Thu, to 1.30pm Fri & Sat) Information on homestays, tours and transport.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Sultan Ismail Petra Airport (%09-773 7400; www.malaysiaairports.com.my; Sultan Ismail Petra Airport Darul Naim) Kota Bharu’s airport is 10km northeast of the city centre.
BUS
Local buses and Transnasional express buses operate from the Central Bus Station (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %09-747 5971, 09-747 4330; Jln Padang Garong). Other express and long-distance buses leave from the Interstate Bus Terminal (Terminal Bas Kota Bharu; Jln Datuk Wan Halim) near the Kota Bharu Tesco; a taxi from this bus station to the centre of town is around RM15.
Most regional buses leave from the Central Bus Station. Destinations include Wakaf Baharu (buses 19 and 27, RM1.60), Rantau Panjang (bus 29, RM5.10) and Tumpat (bus 19 and 43, RM3).
For the Perhentian Islands there are regular departures from the Central Bus Station between 6am to 6.30pm to Kuala Besut (bus 639, RM6, around two hours).
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | DURATION (APPROX HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Alor Setar | 39 | 7 |
| Butterworth | 37 | 7 |
| Gua Musang | 17 | 4 |
| Ipoh | 36 | 6 |
| Kuala Lumpur | 44 | 7 |
| Kuala Terengganu | 17 | 3 |
| Kuantan | 34 | 6 |
| Lumut | 44 | 7 |
| Melaka | 57 | 8 |
| Singapore | 81 | 10 |
TAXI
The taxi stand (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Hilir Pasar) is on the southern side of the central bus station. Avoid the unlicensed cab drivers who will pester you around town, and take an official taxi as these are cheaper and safer.
TRAIN
The nearest railway station is Wakaf Baharu (%09-719 6986; Jln Stesen), around 10km west of Kota Bharu; it can be reached by local buses 19 or 17.
Destinations on what is sometimes called the ‘jungle line’ include Jerantut (8½ hours, daily) and Johor Bharu (18 hours, daily). For Kuala Lumpur you’ll need to change lines at Gemas.
Check with KB’s tourist information centre or see Keretapi Tanah Melayu for the latest times and fares.
GETTING TO THAILAND: KOTA BHARU TO SUNGAI KOLOK
Getting to the border The Thailand border is at Rantau Panjang; bus 29 (RM5, 1½ hours) departs on the hour from Kota Bharu’s Central Bus Station. Share taxis, also departing from the Central Bus Station, cost around RM50 per car and take 45 minutes.
There’s another border crossing at Pengkalan Kubor, on the coast, but transport links aren’t as good and crossing here can be dodgy during periods of sectarian violence in southern Thailand. Enquire at the tourist information centre before using this crossing. During the day a large car ferry (RM1 for pedestrians) crosses the river to busy Tak Bai in Thailand. From Kota Bharu, take bus 27 or 43 (RM2.40) from the central bus station.
At the border From Rantau Panjang you can walk across the border to Sungai Kolok, where you can arrange ongoing transport to Bangkok.
Moving on Trains to Bangkok depart at 11.30am and 2.20pm, buses at 11.30am. There are also hourly minibuses from Sungai Kolok to Hat Yai.
For information on making the crossing in the reverse direction see here.
PENINSULAR INTERIOR
Separating the two peninsular coasts is a thick band of jungle featuring Taman Negara, the peninsula’s most famous national park, and the ‘jungle railway’, an engineering feat.
Jerantut
%09 / Pop 90,000
Sleepy Jerantut is the gateway to Taman Negara and an access point for the ‘jungle railway’ connecting with Kota Bharu in the north. If you have to spend a night here before heading into the jungle, it’s a pleasant enough place to wander around and has good accommodation and places to eat.
4Sleeping & Eating
oHotel FirdausHOTEL$
(%09-266 1409; www.facebook.com/hfjerantut; 2-5 Jln Kuantan; s/d/q RM38/55/90; aW)
This new hotel offers clean rooms (mostly with no windows) that are spacious, well equipped and reasonably priced. Throw in its brightly decorated ground-floor cafe Kopi Chantek and bakery Dania Cakes Corner, and you have an almost irresistible combination.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
All buses arrive and depart from Jerantut Bus Station (120 Jln Bandar Baru).
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Kuala Lipis | 5 | 1½ |
| Kuala Lumpur (Pekeliling) | 18.40 | 4 |
| Kuantan | 17.80 | 3 |
| Temerloh | 6.20 | 1 |
Public buses go to the jetty at Kuala Tembeling for boats to Taman Negara (RM4, 45 minutes) usually every hour from 10.30am to 3.30pm. The schedule is unreliable and doesn’t coincide with boat departures.
NKS Hotel & Travel (%09-266 4488; www.taman-negara-nks.com; 21-22 Jln Besar, Bandar Lama; h7.30am-6pm; W) arranges minibuses and buses to a variety of destinations, including Tembeling jetty (RM10), KL (RM40), Kuala Besut (RM70) and the Cameron Highlands (RM60). Buses leave from outside theNKS cafe. NKS can also arrange a river trip to the national park from the jetty in Kuala Tembeling (RM45). If you want to skip the riverboat, take one of the minibuses directly from Kuala Tahan for Taman Negara (RM25, 8am and sometimes 4.30pm).
TRAIN
Jerantut train station is on the Tumpat–Gemas line (also known as the East Line or ‘jungle railway’). Going north, the 4am train stops at Kuala Lipis and Gua Musang before arriving at Wakaf Baharu close to Kota Bharu (RM20, nine hours). Going south, the 1am sleeper train heads to Johor Bahru (seat/sleeper RM19/44, nine hours), where you can transfer to either the shuttle train or bus to Singapore.
For an up-to-date timetable and list of fares, consult KTM.
Taman Negara
%09
Malaysia’s oldest, largest and most popular national park straddles the borders of Pahang, Kelantan and Terengganu. Since 1939 Taman Negara (which means national park in Bahasa Malyasia) has been a haven for amazing tropical flora and a vast variety of wildlife, including elephants, tigers, leopards and flying squirrels.
Join a tour or hire a guide – and head well away from the park headquarters at Kuala Tahan – to stand even a slim chance of spotting such large fauna. Or set aside nine days to scale the peninsula’s highest peak, 2186m Gunung Tahan. Even if you can only spend a day or two here, it’s still a great place to experience, on foot or by riverboat, and will give you a taste of how most of Malaysia once looked.
2Activities
Hikes & Treks
Consider an overnight trek or at least a long boat-trip up one of the park’s rivers. Whether coming for an afternoon hike or a multi-day trek, you’ll need to buy a permit at the Park Information Counter.
oCanopy Walk & AroundHIKING
(adult/child RM5/3; h9am-3pm Sat-Thu, to noon Fri)
Taman Negara’s most popular hike is to the Canopy Walk, a 500m bridge, suspended between huge trees, and around 45m above the forest floor. The easy-to-follow boardwalk starts east park headquarters and leads along the Sungai Tembeling to the turn off to the canopy walk, 30 minutes away. Get here early for the best birding and wildlife watching.
Kuala TrengganHIKING
The well-marked main trail along the bank of Sungai Tembeling leads 9km to Kuala Trenggan, a popular trail for those heading to the Bumbun Kumbang hide. Allow five hours. From here, boats go back to Kuala Tahan, or it’s a further 2km walk to Bumbun Kumbang.
Kuala KeniamHIKING
The trail from Kuala Trenggan to Kuala Keniam is a popular day hike. It’s normally done by chartering a boat to Kuala Keniam and then walking back to Kuala Trenggan (six hours). The trail is quite taxing and hilly in parts, and passes a series of limestone caves.
Lata BerkohHIKING
North from park headquarters, it’s an easy two-hour hike to Lata Berkoh, a set of cascading rapids on Sungai Tahan. The trail passes the Lubok Simpon swimming hole and Bumbun Tabing, and ultimately leads up to Gunung Tahan.
There is one river crossing before you reach the falls, which can be treacherous if the water is high. Do not attempt the river crossing in high water – you should hail one of the boat operators waiting on the opposite side to ferry you across.
GEAR HIRE & LEECHES
Leeches are everywhere inside the park (but are rarely found in Kampung Kuala Tahan). Wearing boots with gaiters or long socks tucked over your trousers and doused in DEET will make hiking more pleasant.
You can hire camping, hiking and fishing gear at several places in Kuala Tahan and also at Mutiara Taman Negara Resort. Approximate asking prices per day:
Asleeping bag RM10
Arucksack RM30
Atent RM10 to RM25
Afishing rod RM30
Asleeping pad RM8 to RM10
Astove RM8
Aboots RM8
River Bus & Boat Trips
At either Mutiara Taman Negara Resort (%09-266 3500, in KL 03-2782 2222; www.mutiarahotels.com; Kampung Kuala Tahan; camp site RM10, dm/chalet/ste/bungalow incl breakfast RM100/450/650/1500; naW), or with the boats that gather at Kuala Tahan’s jetty, you can enquire about trips along the river to the following destinations. Departures are on request and there’s often a minimum number of passengers.
| DESTINATION | PRICE PER BOAT (RM) | TRIP DURATION (MIN) |
|---|---|---|
| Bunbun Yong | 120 | 20 |
| Canopy Walkway | 100 | 15 |
| Gua Telinga | 120 | 30 |
| Kuala Tembeling | 220 | 180 |
| Lata Berkoh | 200 | 45 |
| Kuala Kenian | 450 | 60-90 |
TTours
There is a wide variety of thematic tours offered by nearly every hotel and a few independent operators in town. Some activities are easily doable on your own (such as the walk to the Canopy Walkway) but for longer treks, or if you really want to learn about the jungle, a tour is the way to go.
Good options are night jungle trips, on foot or by four-wheel drive (RM25 to RM45), a boat trip to the rapids at Lata Berkok via the kelah fish sanctuary (RM200), and motorboating through Class I rapids (RM40 to RM80).
Inside Taman Negara are around nine villages of the Batek, a subgroup of the indigenous people of the peninsula known collectively as Orang Asli. On tours to their settlements (around RM80), tribal elders give a general overview of life there and you’ll learn how to use a long blow-pipe and start a fire. While local guides insist that these tours provide essential income for the Orang Asli, most of your tour money will go to the tour company. A handicraft purchase in the village will help spread the wealth.
4Sleeping & Eating
Kampung Kuala Tahan, directly across the river from park headquarters and the Mutiara Resort, is where most of Taman Negara’s lodging, restaurants and shops are found. There are a handful of secluded places just 10 minutes’ walk south and north of Kampung Kuala Tahan that are worth checking out if you are looking for a little more tranquillity.
Wild LodgeHOSTEL$
(%016-665 7844; www.pahangoutdoor.com; Kampung Kuala Tahan; dm R25-30; aW)
This new hostel overlooks the river and is close to the jetty. All rooms are simply furnished and have views into the park; the more expensive ones have beds rather than bunks.
There’s free tea and coffee, beer (RM10 to RM13) and an outdoor lounge area, also with river views. They also offer a variety of guided tours and activities into the park, including a night river safari (RM65).
Mahseer ChaletBUNGALOW$
(%019-383 2633; mahseerchalet@gmail.com; Kampung Kuala Tahan; dm RM13, r RM100-140; aW)
This clutch of jungle bungalows occupies a quiet part of the village above the river. The rooms and bungalows are well-maintained and there’s a restaurant on site serving breakfast and dinner. Cats patrol the grounds and there’s a cool vibe that’s wide-grinning friendly.
8Information
Park Information Counter (Mutiara Taman Negara Resort; park entrance/camera/fishing/canopy/hides/camping RM1/5/10/5/5/1; h8am-10pm Sun-Thu, 8am-noon & 3-10pm Fri) You must register here and buy various permits before heading into the park. The counter is located in the building 100m north of the Mutiara Taman Negara Resort’s reception. Pick up the good leaflet and map Taman Negara Kuala Tahan (free).
8Getting There & Away
A recommended option is to head to Taman Negara by minibus or taxi from Jerantut and return by boat. The bold of spirit can get here on foot.
BOAT
The 60km boat trip from Kuala Tembling (18km north of Jerantut) to Kuala Tahan is a beautiful journey and a highlight for many visitors. The boat ride is three hours to the park and two hours in the other direction.
Boats (one way RM45) depart daily at 2pm. Extra boats are laid on during the busy season, and service can be irregular from November to February.
BUS & TAXI
Minibus services go directly from several tourist destinations around Malaysia to Kampung Kuala Tahan. Han.Travel (MAP; %03-2031 0899; www.han-travel.com; ground Fl, Bangunan Mariamman, Jln Hang Kasturi; LRT Pasar Seni), NKS and Danz Travel & Adventures (%09-266 3036, 013-655 4789; http://danzecoresort.com; Kuala Tahan; h8am-10pm; W) run several useful private services, including daily buses from Kuala Tahan to Jerantut (RM25), Cameron Highlands (RM85), Kuala Besut, for the Perhentians (RM95), Kota Bharu (RM105) and Penang (RM140). These minibuses can also drop you en route anywhere in between.
MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SABAH
Most visitors come to Sabah to experience nature in all its riotous glory: the spectacular reefs of Sipadan; climbers paradise Mt Kinabalu, reaching 4095m into the clouds; the jungle-clad banks of Sungai Kinabatangan teeming with monkeys, hornbills and other creatures; and Sepilok, one of the only places in the world where you can see semi-wild orangutans in their native habitat. And while Sabah’s cities are not as pretty as their Sarawakian counterparts, cosmopolitan Kota Kinabalu (known as KK) will soon win you over.
Kota Kinabalu
%088 / Pop 452,058
Kota Kinabalu (KK) won’t immediately overwhelm you with its beauty, but the centre is compact and walkable. Alongside swanky new malls, old KK happily endures, with its markets stocked to the gills with sea creatures, pearls, and busy fishermen shuttling about the waterfront. KK is an ideal base to book your Sabah adventure, whether it be diving, wildlife watching, or Mt Kinabalu trekking.
Kota Kinabalu
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
8Information
1Sights
Tunku Abdul Rahman National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(www.sabahparks.org.my; adult/child RM10/6)
Just west of Kota Kinabalu, the five islands of Manukan, Gaya, Sapi, Mamutik and Sulug (and the reefs in between) make up the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, covering a total area of just over 49 sq km. Only a short boat ride from the Kota Kinabalu city centre, the islands have some nice beaches and the water in the outer areas is usually clear, offering ideal day-trip material for anyone wanting to escape the city and unwind.
Sunday MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Gaya; h6am-about noon Sun)
On Sundays a lively Chinese street fair takes over a section of Jln Gaya. It’s vividly chaotic, with stalls cheek by jowl hawking batik sarongs, umbrellas, fruit and antiques.
Sabah MuseumMUSEUM
(Kompleks Muzium Sabah; %088-253 199; www.museum.sabah.gov.my; Jln Muzium; RM15; h9am-5pm; 
p)
About 2km south of the city centre, this refurbished museum is the best place to go in KK for an introduction to Sabah’s ethnicities and environments, with clear signage and explanations. Expect tribal and historical artefacts, including ceramics and a centrepiece whale skeleton, and a replica limestone cave. The Heritage Village has traditional tribal dwellings, including Kadazan bamboo houses and a Chinese farmhouse, all nicely set on a lily-pad lake.
2Activities
oBorneo DiversDIVING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-222226; www.borneodivers.info; 9th fl, Menara Jubili, 53 Jln Gaya; h9am-6pm)
A top-notch dive outfit, with a strong pedigree as the longest operator in Sabah, offering PADI dive courses. Also based on Mabul island, Borneo Divers can take you diving all over Sabah.
Borneo DreamDIVING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-811 8149; www.borneodream.com; G27 Wisma Sabah, Jln Tun Fuad Stephens; h9am-6pm)
Operating out of Kota Kinabalu and at the Gaya Island Resort (%KL 03-2783 1000; www.gayaislandresort.com; villas from RM1520; aW
s), on Pulau Gaya, this outfit has a good name and can take you diving on a try dive excursion or take you through your PADI paces to become an Open Water Diver.
TTours
There are many tour companies based in KK, enough to suit every taste and budget. Head to Wisma Sabah – this office building on Jln Haji Saman is full of agents and operators.
oSticky Rice TravelADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-251654; www.stickyricetravel.com; 3rd fl, 134 Jln Gaya; h9am-6pm) S
National Geographic prefers this outfit for a reason; it’s organised, original in its choice of tours and has excellent knowledgeable guides. Responsible community-based tourism: expect adventure, culture and something very different. Sticky Rice will sit down with you and tailor your experience around your interests, fitness and budget; your trip may last four days or a few weeks.
Adventure Alternative BorneoADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %198726355; www.adventurealternative.com; Lg Dewan; h9am-6pm) S
Sustainable and ethical travel are key to this British-owned company, which works closely with Sabah Tourist Board, and runs tours to Lupa Masa rainforest camp, close to Mt Kinabalu. If you’re looking for remote natural immersion, it also operates trips to Sapulot.
4Sleeping
Hostels and cool cafes tend to congregate on Lg Dewan, aka Australian Place. Check out the Sabah Backpacker Operators Association (www.sabahbackpackers.com), which was set up in an effort to help shoestring travellers in the region.
oBorneo BackpackersHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-234009; www.borneobackpackers.com; 24 Lg Dewan; dm/s/d incl breakfast from RM37/60/80; aW)
Turquoise and chic with Hoi An lanterns, choice art, wood floors, and an excellent cafe (24 Lg Dewan; mains RM11-19; h11am-late) down below firing up Asian fusion cuisine, this is one of KK’s best backpacker haunts. Dorms and rooms are immaculate, with art-stencilled walls, a balcony and reading room to chill in, and constantly whirring fans. Better still, it’s the HQ of Sticky Rice Travel.
B&B@21HOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %016-883 3763, 088-210632; bookingbb21@gmail.com; lot 21, Lg Dewan; dm RM40, r RM93; aW)
This welcoming hostel has large double rooms, uncramped dorms, a great kitchen area and chilling/TV lounge with loads of DVDs. The staff can help you book trips around Sabah. There is a garden and air-con throughout.
Borneo Gaya LodgeHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-242477; www.borneogayalodge.com; 1st fl, 78 Jln Gaya; dm incl breakfast from RM30-35, d with bath from RM85; aiW)
This comfortable hostel pipes air-con through its entirety – phew! With a cosy communal lounge, the place is quiet and clean. Note that two of the private-bath doubles have no windows. The friendly staff are happy to help you book tours and provide tourist information.
D’Beach Street LodgeHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-258228; www.dbeachstreet.com; 48 Jln Pantai; dm/s/d RM35/60-90/70-150; aW)
Lucy’s HomestayHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Backpacker’s Lodge; %088-261495; backpackerkk@yahoo.com; Lot 25, Lg Dewan, Australia Place; dm/s/d with shared bathroom incl breakfast RM25/52/62; W)
Lucy’s welcomes with brightly muralled walls, a book exchange (lots of travel tomes) and a plant-filled balcony to flop on. There’s a house-proud kitchen and natural wood floor, fan-only rooms and dorms. It’s calm, quiet and without a hint of laddish noise (midnight curfew). Check out the 100-year-old banyan tree towering above you out the back.
oHotel Sixty3HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-212663; www.hotelsixty3.com; 63 Jln Gaya; r RM298-558, ste RM668; aiW)
This fabulous award-winning hotel has an international feel in its 100 rooms, with glossy floors, evocative black-and-white photos of Kota Kinabalu and Sabah on the walls, subtle down-lighting, flat-screen TVs, a smoke-free policy and refillable glass bottles for drinking water. Stylish, fresh and sustainable. There’s no restaurant, but there are plenty of options in the neighbourhood.
Kinabalu Daya HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-240000; Lot 3 & 4, Block 9, Jln Pantai; r from RM144; aW)
A totally smoke-free hotel, attentive staff and a hip street-level bar are just part of the appeal here. Colourful, carpeted halls lead to cool, tiled, neutral-toned rooms. Drinking water is provided in reuseable containers and there are refilling stations throughout the hotel. It’s worth upgrading to the deluxe category (RM175) for the larger room and bathroom. Standard rooms are tiny.
5Eating
KK is one of the few cities in Borneo with an eating scene diverse enough to refresh the noodle-jaded palate. Besides the ubiquitous Chinese kedai kopi (coffee shops) and Malay halal restaurants, you’ll find plenty of interesting options around the city centre.
oEl CentroINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %014-862 3877, 019-893 5499; www.elcentro.my; 32 Jln Haji Saman; mains RM18-25; h11am-midnight Tue-Sun; W) S
Tiny El Centro is supercasual, with a menu free of palm oil and focussing on delicious and authentic Mexican fare: soft tacos, burritos, etc, but also featuring hummus, pizza, chorizo wraps, chicken and beef burgers. It even does bangers and mash. There’s a good bar. Note that it’s popular and seating is limited, and smokers are not discouraged from smoking inside.
Todak WaterfrontSEAFOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Tun Fuad Stephens; from RM3-4 per 100g; h5-10pm)
Flaming woks, crowds of customers and tables of glistening fish and squid, crabs, prawns and lobster. All within a few metres of the fishing boats bobbing on their moorings. This is a nicer alternative to enjoy a fresh seafood dinner than the very smoky Filipino barbecue stalls further south. Choose your seafood and cooking style and take a plastic seat.
On the tables are a box of utensils, hand-washing water and bottles of drinking water (RM1). Several stall holders here are unfussed about providing beer. It’s located between the Central Market and the Todak (aka spearfish/marlin) roundabout on jln Tun Fuad Stephens.
Night MarketHAWKER$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Tun Fuad Stephens; fish/prawn per 100g from RM3/15, satay RM1.50; h5-11pm)
The night market is the best, cheapest and most interesting place in KK for barbecued squid, ray and a vast selection of delicious seafood cooked up right before your eyes. Vegetarian options available. The presence of the mosque in the vicinity means alcohol is not served.
Kedai Kopi Fatt KeeCHINESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 28 Jln Bakau; mains from RM8; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat)
The woks are always flamin’ and sizzlin’ at this popular Cantonese joint below Ang’s Hotel. Look out for sweet-and-sour shrimp, jungle fern, and oyster-sauce chicken wings.
oMother IndiaINDIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-276 136; Ground fl, Lot G-40A, Oceanus Waterfront Mall; mains RM18-55; h11am-3pm & 5.30-10pm; av)
The enticing aromas lead you into this beautifully decorated restaurant accented with ochre and golden tones, pendant lighting and carved screens. With attentive staff, sparkling white china and linen napkins, Mother India is a cut above the rest. The food is Mughal-style Indian, with rich creamy sauces accompanying the main ingredients, be they vegetables, fish, prawns, mutton or chicken.
Little ItalyITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-232231; 23 Jln Haji Saman, ground fl, Hotel Capital; h10am-11pm Mon-Thur, 10am-11.30pm Fri-Sun)
This very popular restaurant fairly buzzes with an army of bandanna-wrapped staff waiting on your every need. Great pasta, great pizzas, Roman statues – what more could you want? Italian coffee, cold beer, wine by the glass? Check, check, check.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The WorkshopCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-274810; Lg Dewan; h8am-10pm; W)
A cafe, art gallery and bar, The Workshop is industrial chic, with cool sounds, local art for sale and fair-trade coffee brewing. If the fresh juices and smoothies don’t cool you down, there’s also a shady beer garden out the back with cold bottles of Guinness. Happy hour is 3pm to 7pm.
El CentroBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %014-862 3877; 32 Jln Haji Saman; h5pm-midnight, closed Mon)
El Centro is understandably popular; it’s friendly, the food is good and it makes for a great spot to meet other travellers. With cool tunes and a laid-back vibe, El Centro also hosts impromptu quiz nights, costume parties and live-music shows.
7Shopping
Borneo ShopBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-538689; www.theborneoshop.com; shop 26, ground fl, Wisma Merdeka Phase 2, Jln Haji Saman; h10am-8pm)
Borneo shop stocks books, gifts, prints and postcards. There’s a wealth of wildlife and flora books all focused on Borneo.
Borneo Trading PostARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-232 655; lot 16, Waterfront Esplanade, Jln Tun Fuad Stephens; h10am-8pm)
Selling upmarket tribal art, contemporary art and Borneo souvenirs, this is a great place for that last-minute mementos.
Handicraft MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Filipino Market; Jln Tun Fuad Stephens; h8am-9pm)
The Handicraft Market is a good place to shop for inexpensive souvenirs. Offerings include pearls, textiles, seashell crafts, jewellery and bamboo goods, some from the Philippines, some from Malaysia and some from other parts of Asia. Needless to say, bargaining is a must!
8Information
EMERGENCY
| Ambulance | %088-218 166, %999 |
| Fire | %994 |
| Police | %999 |
MEDICAL SERVICES
Permai Polyclinics (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-232100; www.permaipolyclinics.com; 4 Jln Pantai; consultation weekday RM60, Sat & Sun RM80; hdoctors on duty 8am-6pm, emergency 24hr) Excellent private outpatient clinic.
Sabah Medical Centre (%088-211333; www.sabahmedicalcentre.com; Lg Bersatu, off Jln Damai; h24hr) Good private hospital care, located about 6km southeast of the city centre.
MONEY
Central KK is chock-a-block with 24-hour ATMs.
HSBC (%088-212 622; 56 Jln Gaya; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri)
Standard Chartered Bank (%088-298111; 20 Jln Haji Saman; h9.15am-3.45pm Mon-Fri)
Maybank (%088-254295; 9 Jln Pantai; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri)
POST
Main Post Office (Jln Tun Razak; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Western Union cheques and money orders can be cashed here.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Free maps of central KK and Sabah are available at almost every hostel or hotel.
Sabah Parks (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-486430, 088-523500; www.sabahparks.org.my; 1st-5th fl, lot 45 & 46, block H, Signature Office KK Times Sq; h8am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8-11.30am & 2-4.30pm Fri, 8am-12.50pm Sat) Information on the state’s parks.
Sabah Tourism Board (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-212121; www.sabahtourism.com; 51 Jln Gaya; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Housed in the historic post office building, KK’s tourist office has plenty of brochures, maps and knowledgeable staff keen to help you with advice tailored around your needs – they won’t just try and sell you a package tour! Their website, packed with helpful information from accommodation to sights, is equally worth a visit.
Immigration Office (%088-488700; Kompleks Persekutuan Pentadbiran Kerajaan, Jln UMS; h7am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) In an office complex near the Universiti Malaysia Sabah (UMS), 9km north of town. Also open on weekends, but only for Malaysian passport processing.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
KK is well served by Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) and AirAsia (www.airasia.com), which offer the following international flights to/from KK: Brunei, Shenzhen, Jakarta, Manila, Singapore and Taipei. Within Malaysia, flights go to/from Johor Bahru, Kuala Lumpur and Penang in Peninsular Malaysia, and Kuching, Labuan, Lawas, Miri, Kudat, Sandakan, Lahad Datu and Tawau in Borneo. Jetstar (www.jetstar.com) and Tiger Airways (www.tigerairways.com) offer flights to Singapore.
The Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA; www.kotakinabaluairport.com; Tanjung Aru) is in Tanjung Aru, 7km south of central KK; it takes around 25 to 40 minutes by taxi or bus.
BOAT
All passengers must pay an adult/child RM3.82/RM1.91 terminal fee for ferries departing from KK. Passenger boats connect KK to Pulau Labuan (3½ hours) twice daily at 8am and 1.30pm (adult first/economy class RM41/36, child first/economy class RM28/RM23), with onward service to Brunei.
Speedboats (RM31) link Jesselton Point with the five islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. Tickets can be bought at the Jesselton Wharf ticketing hall (Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal; h8am-6pm). Ferries depart from Jesselton Point (Jln Haji Saman, 500m northeast of Wisma Sabah), located a little way north of the Suria Sabah shopping mall.
BUS
Several different stations around KK serve a variety of out-of-town destinations.
In general, land transport heading east departs from Utara Terminal (Inaman), 9km north of the city, while those heading north on the west coast leave from Padang Merdeka (Merdeka Field; Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman) Bus Station (also called ‘old bus station’; in the middle of town). Those heading south on the west coast leave from both Padang Merdeka and Wawasan Plaza, while the latter is being redeveloped. BSB services leave the City Park Bus Terminal (Jln Haji Saman).
Local buses (RM2) from Wawasan Plaza can take tourists to Inanam if you don’t want to splurge on the RM20 taxi. Have your hotel call ahead to the bus station to book your seat in advance. Same-day bookings are usually fine, although weekends are busier than weekdays. It’s always good to ring ahead because sometimes transport will be halted due to flooding caused by heavy rains.
BUSES FROM KOTA KINABALU
This bus and minivan transport information was provided to us by the Sabah Tourism Board and should be used as an estimate only: transport times can fluctuate due to weather, prices may change and the transport authority has been known to alter departure points.
| DESTINATION | DURATION (HR) | PRICE | TERMINAL | DEPARTURES |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bandar Seri Begawan (Brunei) | 8½ | RM100 | City Park Bus Terminal | 8am |
| Mt Kinabalu NP | 2 | RM15-20 | Inanam & Padang Merdeka | 7am-8pm (very frequent) |
| Ranau | 2 | RM20 | Padang Merdeka | 7am-5pm |
| Sandakan | 6 | RM45 | Inanam | 7am-2pm (frequent) & 8pm |
| Semporna | 9 | RM75 | Inanam | 7.30am, 2pm & 7.30pm |
| Tawau | 9 | RM50 | Inanam | 7.30am, 8am, 10am, 12.30pm, 4pm & 8pm |
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Airport shuttle buses (adult/child RM5/RM3) leave Padang Merdeka station every 45 minutes to an hour between 7.30am to 7.15pm daily. From the airport to the city buses depart from 8am until 8.30pm. It’s usually 45 mins between services but some gaps are longer.
Taxis heading from terminals into town operate on a voucher system (RM30) sold at a taxi desk on the terminal’s ground floor. Taxis heading to the airport should also charge RM30, if you catch one in the city centre.
Bus
Minibuses operate from several stops, including Padang Merdeka Bus Station, Wawasan Plaza (Wawasan Plaza), and the car park outside Milimewa Superstore (near the intersection of Jln Haji Saman and Beach St). They circulate the town looking for passengers. Most destinations within the city cost RM4 to RM6.
Taxi
Expect to pay a minimum of RM15 for a ride in the city centre. Taxis can be found throughout the city, and bus stations and shopping centres.
Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu National Park
Gunung Kinabalu, as it is known in Malay, is the highest mountain on the world’s third-largest island. It is also the highest point between the Himalayas and the island of New Guinea. Rising almost twice as high as its Crocker Range neighbours, and culminating in a crown of wild granite spires, it is a sight to behold. Amazingly, the mountain is still growing, increasing in height by about 5mm a year.
The 4095m Mt Kinabalu may not be a Himalayan sky-poker, but Malaysia’s first Unesco World Heritage Site is a major drawcard attracting thousands of climbers every year. The climb, by no means an easy jaunt, is essentially a long walk up a very steep hill, through jungle then barren moonscapes, with a little scrambling thrown in for good measure. On a clear day you can see the Philippines from the summit; often, though, the mountain is wreathed in cloud.
1Sights & Activities
Climbing Mt Kinabalu
The only way to get to the top of the mountain is to book a two-day package that includes a bed at Laban Rata (elevation 3272m), the predawn launch point for the summit. It is not possible to do a one-day hike to the summit.
If you’re aiming for a specific date, especially one that falls in July or August or around Christmas, it’s recommended that you make reservations two or more months ahead. Almost any tour operator in Sabah – including those with offices in the downtown KK office building known as Wisma Sabah – can organise a trip to the mountain. However, it’s cheaper to book directly through Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088-287887; www.suterasanctuarylodges.com.my; ground fl, lot G15, Wisma Sabah, Jln Haji Saman; h9am-6pm), the company that has a monopoly on accommodation within the national park. If you don’t have your reservations squared away before arriving in KK, drop by its office to check last-minute options. The more lead time you allow and the more flexible your travel itinerary, the better the chance that a window will open up.
If you book through Sutera, additional fees have to be paid (cash only) at the Sabah Parks Visitor Centre:
Aentry fee (adult/child RM15/10 per day)
Aclimbing permit (adult/childRM200/80)
Aguide fee (RM230 for one to five people)
Ainsurance (RM7)
All this does not include at least RM978 for dorm and board, or RM1927 for private room and board, on the mountain at Laban Rata. With said lodging, plus buses or taxis to the park, you’re looking at spending around RM1500 for the common two day, one-night trip to the mountain.
You can try your luck and just show up at the park to see if there’s a last-minute cancellation – spaces at Laban Rata do open up. Do not attempt an ‘unofficial’ climb – permits are scrupulously checked at three points along the trail.
No special equipment is required to summit Mt Kinabalu. However, a headlamp is strongly advised for the predawn jaunt to the top – you’ll need your hands free to negotiate the ropes on the summit massif. Expect freezing temperatures near the top, not to mention strong winds and the occasional rainstorm, so it’s a good idea to bring along a quick-drying fleece jacket and a waterproof shell to go over it. Don’t forget a water bottle, which can be refilled en route.
Via Ferrata
The via ferrata (‘iron road’ in Italian) is a permanent network of mountaineering cables, rungs and rails attached to Mt Kinabalu’s dramatic granite walls. After ascending the mountain in the usual way, climbers can use the via ferrata, managed by Mountain Torq (www.mountaintorq.com; Kinabalu Park Headquarters; per person, 2-3 climbers: Low’s Peak Circuit RM1760, Walk the Torq RM1935), to return from 3766m to the Laban Rata rest camp. The Low’s Peak Circuit is a four- to five-hour scramble along Mt Kinabalu’s sheer flanks. The route’s threadlike tightrope walks and swinging planks will have you convinced that the course designers are sadistic, but that’s what makes it such fun – testing your limits without putting your safety in jeopardy.
Hikes Around the Base
If you’re not up for an ascent to the summit, can’t afford an expensive package and/ or didn’t reserve ahead for the dates you need, it’s still well worth coming here to explore the interconnected nature trails that wend their way through the beautiful jungles around the base of Mt Kinabalu. A climbing permit and a guide are required if you go above Timpohon Gate.
4Sleeping
It’s generally preferable to stay in the park, mainly because the lodging is reasonable value and it’s more convenient for the mountain and walking trails. However, there are places to stay outside the park, most on the road between the park HQ and Kundasang (6km east of the park’s main entrance).
Sleeping options located at the base of the mountain are operated by Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (www.suterasanctuarylodges.com; Kinabalu Park Headquarters; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, to 12.30pm Sun). They’re expensive compared to sleeping spots outside the park. Options range from a hostel, to cabins costing from RM965, to apartments that sleep four, costing RM1632.
Grace HostelHOSTEL$$
(http://suterasanctuarylodges.com.my; Kinabalu Park Headquarters; dm incl breakfast RM372)
Clean, comfortable 20-bed dorm with fireplace and drink-making area.
Rock Twin ShareHOSTEL$$
(http://suterasanctuarylodges.com.my; Kinabalu Park Headquarters; tw incl breakfast RM520)
Small clean twin rooms that share common bathrooms. There is an inviting common lounge.
Hill LodgeCABIN$$$
(http://suterasanctuarylodges.com.my; Kinabalu Park Headquarters; cabins incl breakfast RM965)
These semi-detached cabins are a good option for those who can’t face a night in the hostel or in a twin with a share bathroom. They’re clean and comfortable, with private bathrooms.
8Getting There & Away
Park headquarters is 88km by road, northeast of KK. Express buses (RM30) leave KK from the Utara Terminal bus station every hour on the hour from 7am to 10am and at 12.30pm, 2pm and 3pm. Alternatively, take a Ranau-bound minivan (RM25) from central KK at Padang Merdeka bus terminal, asking the driver to drop you at a bus shelter outside the gate at Kinabalu National Park. Minivans leave when full and run from early morning till around 2pm. We recommend leaving before 7am for the two-hour trip, in order to check in at Park Headquarters by 9am.
To get from the park to KK or Sandakan (RM40), you can flag down a bus from the park turn-off.
Share taxis leave KK from Inanam and Padang Merdeka Bus Stations (RM30 per person, RM120 per vehicle).
Share 4WDs park just outside of the park gates and leave when full for KK (RM200 per 4WD) and Sandakan (RM500); each 4WD can hold around four to five passengers, and they can be chartered by individuals.
Around Mt Kinabalu
1Sights & Activities
Kundasang War MemorialMEMORIAL
(Kota Kinabalu–Ranau Hwy, Kundasang; adult/child RM10/1; h8.30am-5pm)
At Kundasang, beside the KK–Ranau Hwy, 10km east of Kinabalu National Park headquarters, is this poignant memorial conceived in 1961. It commemorates the Australian and British prisoners who died on the infamous Sandakan Death Marches and at the Sandakan and Ranau POW camps, as well as the those from Borneo who died while assisting the prisoners. Four modest gardens individually represent the Australians, the British and the people of Borneo, plus a colonnaded Contemplation Garden.
In the Contemplation Garden is a list of the deceased and at the back of this garden there is a stunning vista of Mt Kinabalu.
Poring Hot SpringsHOT SPRINGS
(Poring, Ranau; adult/child incl Kinabalu National Park RM15/10; hentrance gate 7am-5pm, park until 8pm, Butterfly Garden & Canopy Walk closed Mon)
One of the legacies of the Japanese invasion of Borneo during WWII, Poring Hot Springs has become a popular weekend retreat for locals. Located in a well-maintained forest park with nature paths that the elderly and children can enjoy, the springs steam with hot sulphurous water channelled into pools and tubs, some of which feel a little rundown. Remember your towel and swimming trunks.
4Sleeping
Mountain Rest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%016-837 4060; Km 53, Jln Tinompok, off Kinabalu Park, Kundasang; dm/s/d incl breakfast from RM20/30/40; aW)
This friendly, clean guesthouse is endearingly ramshackle and spans different levels up the side of the mountain. About five minutes’ walk from the park entrance, house-proud though very basic rooms have a few sticks of furniture and clean bathrooms. Breakfast included and vegetarian dinners are available.
oLupa MasaCAMPGROUND$$
(%012-845 1987, 016-806 8194; http://lupamasa.com; Poring; per person incl meals tent/chalet RM90/250) S
This eco-camp is surrounded by forest and has two gin-clear rivers to bathe in, with waterfalls and natural jacuzzis. Lupa Masa isn’t for everyone though…no electricity or wi-fi, but bugs and leeches at no extra cost. Accommodation is on mattresses in tents on raised platforms, or the delightful new chalets with striking river views.
Wind ParadiseYURT$$
(%019-800 0201, 088-714 563; http://mongolianyurt.mrsabah.com; Jln Mesilau, Cinta Mata, Kundasang; d/tr RM170/200, 4-person yurt RM300; p)
With staggeringly pretty views of the valley and town of Kundasang far below, these Mongolian yurts, and rooms in a central lodge – both set in pleasant lawns – are delightful. There’s self-catering and a great lounge, and barbecue facilities to lap up the mountain view. Yurts have comfy beds and make for a great sleep with natural ventilation.
8Getting There & Around
KK roundtrip buses stop in front of Kinabalu National Park headquarters and in Ranau (RM25 to RM30, two hours) from 7am to 8pm. Minibuses operate from a blue-roofed shelter in Ranau servicing the nearby attractions (park HQ, Poring etc) for RM5.
Sandakan
%089 / Pop 157,330
Sabah’s second city has long been a major trading port, but today it feels quite provincial compared to bustling KK. The main draw here is that it’s the gateway to the Sungai Kinabatangan and Sepilok. Curiously, a completely new city centre is planned to be built 2.5km west of the city.
1Sights
Sandakan Memorial ParkHISTORIC SITE
(h9am-5pm)
A beautiful rainforest garden marks the site of a Japanese POW camp and starting point for the infamous WWII ‘death marches’ to Ranau. Of the 1800 Australian and 600 British troops imprisoned here, the only survivors by July 1945 were six Australian escapees. A concrete water tank and a few rusting machines of the erstwhile British agricultural station that became a prison comprise the only physical remains. A pavilion recounts the horrors and heroism and includes photographs and accounts from survivors.
To reach the park, take any Batu 8 (or higher-numbered) bus from the local bus station on the waterfront in the city centre (RM1.50); get off at the ‘Taman Rimba’ signpost and walk down Jln Rimba. A taxi from downtown costs about RM80 return with one hour waiting time.
See http://sandakandeathmarch.com for more details of the death march route.
Agnes Keith HouseMUSEUM
(%089-221140; www.museum.sabah.gov.my; Jln Istana; RM15; h9am-5pm)
This atmospheric two-storey wooden villa, and former British colonial quarters, is now renovated as a museum. Living in Sandakan in the 1930s, American Agnes Keith wrote several books about her experiences here, including the famous Land Below the Wind. The villa documents Sandakan in all its colonial splendour.
To reach the museum, head up the Tangga Seribu (100 Steps) to Jln Istana and turn left, then immediately right. Also on the grounds is the English Tea House & Restaurant (%089-222 544; www.englishteahouse.org; Jln Istana; mains RM16.50-55, cocktails RM18-20; h10am-9pm).
4Sleeping
If you’re only passing through Sandakan to see the orangutans, it’s better to stay at Sepilok itself. Sandakan has several budget hostels and a few upscale midrange options.
Sandakan Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$
(%089-211213; www.sandakanbackpackershostel.com; Lot 109, Sandakan Harbour Square; dm RM35, d RM70, d with bath RM75; aW)
Decorated with murals by the former owner and former guests, this friendly and clean hostel has rooms with sea views and a rooftop area with even more watery vistas. It’s close to the waterfront restaurants (and an occasionally noisy karaoke bar). Note that the front door is locked at 11pm.
Borneo Sandakan BackpackersHOSTEL$
(%089-215754; www.borneosandakan.com; 1st fl, 54 Harbour Sq; dm/s/d RM35/60/75; aW)
This superclean, welcoming hostel boasts warm orange walls, air-con in every room and a lobby with a flat-screen TV. It also serves up a decent, complimentary breakfast (eggs). There are six rooms and two well-sized dorms (though some rooms lack windows). It has a relaxed vibe and helpful staff who are also qualified guides and run a number of tours.
5Eating
oHarbour Bistro CafeINTERNATIONAL$
(Waterfront; Mains RM8-30; h2pm-2am; v)
Regarded by many as the best of the gaggle of casual eateries that line the waterfront, the Harbour Bistro offers plenty of Asian options using beef, chicken and local seafood, plus Western-style mains such as fish ‘n’ chips and steaks. Vegetarians will find plenty of options, but be wary of the addition of dried shrimp.
Sandakan Central MarketHAWKER$
(Jln Dua; mains RM1-8; h7am-3pm)
Despite being located in what looks like a multi-storey car park, this is the best spot in town for cheap eats and food stalls. Upstairs you’ll find strictly halal food stalls, with a mix of Chinese, Malay, Indonesian and Filipino fare. Hours given for the food stalls are a bit flexible, but by 3pm most are empty.
oBa Lin Roof GardenINTERNATIONAL$$
(%089-272 988; www.nakhotel.com; 18th fl, Nak Hotel, Jln Pelabuhan Lama; mains RM26-45, cocktails RM20-25; h7.30am-1am, happy hour 2-8pm; aW)
A hidden treat at the top of the Nak Hotel, this stylish restaurant/bar has retro paper light shades, wicker swing-chairs, and swallow-you-up couches. Eat inside or out; on the pot-plant shaded verandah or, in the evenings, up on the rooftop. Pizza, soups, marinated NZ lamb, grass-fed Angus steaks and a wealth of fresh juices and original cocktails. Check the blackboard for specials.
BORDER CROSSING WARNING
Standard Marine (%089-216 996; Block G, Lot 1, 1st fl, Bandar Ramai-Ramai Jalan Leila) links Sandakan with Zamboanga (economy/cabin RM280/300) on the Philippine island of Mindanao. Ferries depart Sandakan harbour at 6pm every Tuesday, arriving at 4pm the next day (22 hours). Because of lawlessness, including kidnappings of foreign nationals, and Islamist insurgency, Western embassies warn against travel to or through Zamboanga, so check local conditions before you sail.
8Information
Duchess of Kent Hospital (%089-248600; http://hdok.moh.gov.my; Batu 2/Mile 2, Jln Utara; h8am-10pm) Provides hospital care.
Maybank (Lebuh Tiga) In addition to a full-service bank and ATM, a sidewalk currency-exchange window is open 9am to 5pm daily for changing cash and travellers cheques.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Malaysia Airlines (%1300-883000, Sandakan airport 089-660525; www.malaysiaairlines.com; ground fl, Terminal Building, Sandakan Airport; h8am-5pm) and MASwings (%1300 88 3000, Sandakan airport 089-675980; www.maswings.com; ground fl, Terminal Building, Sandakan Airport; h7am-10pm) have several flights per day to/from KK and KL; two per day to/from Tawau and two per week to Kudat. AirAsia (%089-222737; www.airasia.com; 2nd fl, Sandakan Airport) operates direct daily flights to/from KL and KK.
BUS
Buses and minibuses to KK, Lahad Datu, Semporna and Tawau leave from the long-distance bus station in a large car park at Batu 2.5, 4km north of town. Most express buses to KK (RM43, six hours) leave between 7am and 2pm, plus one evening departure around 8pm. All pass the turn-off to Kinabalu National Park headquarters.
Buses depart regularly for Lahad Datu (RM22, 2½ hours) and Tawau (RM43, 5½ hours) between 7am and 8am. There’s also a bus to Semporna (RM45, 5½ hours) at 8am. If you miss it, head to Lahad Datu, then catch a frequent minibus to Semporna.
Minibuses depart throughout the morning from Batu 2.5 for Ranau (RM30, four hours) and Lahad Datu (some of those continuing to Tawau). Minibuses for Sukau (RM15) leave from a lot behind Centre Point Mall in town.
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Sandakan Airport is 11km from the city centre. Batu 7 Airport bus (RM1.80) stops on the main road about 500m from the terminal. A coupon taxi to the town centre costs RM30; and going the other way is the same.
BUS
Terminal Bas Sandakan (Minibus Stand), behind the Centre Point Plaza, is Sandakan’s bus terminal. Buses run from 6am to 6pm on the main road to the north, Jln Utara. Buses display a sign indicating how far from town they go, eg Batu 2.5 (the long-distance bus station, RM1.50), Batu 14 (the turn-off to Sepilok), Batu 32 (the end of the line on the KK–Semporna Highway). Fares range from RM2 to RM5.
To reach the long-distance bus station, you can also catch a local bus (RM1.50) from the local bus station at the waterfront.
Sepilok
%089
A visit to the world’s most famous place to see orangutans in their natural rainforest habitat is all the more compelling thanks to the outdoor nursery for orangutan youngsters in the same complex, and the nearby Sun Bear Conservation Centre and Rainforest Discovery Centre. In addition, the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary is only a short drive away. There are also some beautiful places to stay here on the edge of the jungle.
1Sights
oSepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation CentreANIMAL SANCTUARY
(SORC; %089-531189, emergency 089-531180; www.wildlife.sabah.gov.my; Jln Sepilok; adult/child RM30/15, camera fee RM10; h9am-noon & 2-4pm Sat-Thu, 9-11.30am & 2-4pm Fri) S
Around 25km north of Sandakan, and covering some 40 sq km of the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve, this inspiring, world-famous centre welcomes orphaned and injured orangutans for rehabilitation before returning them to forest life. In 2017 we were told there are around 200 living in the reserve, many more than the website suggests, though only a few are regular visitors to the feeding platform. At the outdoor nursery, a short walk from the feeding platform, you can watch orphaned toddlers at play.
Rainforest Discovery CentreNATURE RESERVE
(RDC; %089-533780; www.forest.sabah.gov.my/rdc; adult/child RM15/7; hticket counter 8am-5pm, night walk 6-8pm)
The RDC, about 1.5km from SORC, offers an engaging education in tropical flora and fauna. Outside the exhibit hall filled with child-friendly displays, a botanical garden presents samples of tropical plants. There’s a gentle 1km lakeside walking trail, and a series of eight canopy towers connected by walkways to give you a bird’s-eye view of the treetops; by far the most rewarding element of a trip here.
Borneo Sun Bear Conservation CentreANIMAL SANCTUARY
(BSBCC; %089-534491; www.bsbcc.org.my; Jln Sepilok; adult/child 12-17 yr/under 12 yr RM31.80/15.90/free; h9am-3.30pm) S
The Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre (BSBCC), which opened in 2014, provides care to rescued sunbears: 44 bears at the time of writing. The centre has full access for the disabled, and it’s possible to see the bears from an elevated glassed viewing area as they climb up trees close by you. There are also telescopes set up for micro examination. A gift shop sells t-shirts, fridge magnets, souvenirs etc, and screens an educational video.
Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey SanctuaryANIMAL SANCTUARY
(%089-672133; www.proboscis.cc; adult/child RM60/30, camera & video RM10; h8am-6pm)
A local palm-plantation owner has created a private proboscis monkey sanctuary, attracting the floppy-conked locals with sugar-free pancakes at 9.30am and 2.30pm feedings at Platform A, and 11.30am and 4.30pm at Platform B, a kilometre away. An estimated 300 wild monkeys live in the 6 sq km reserve. The proboscis monkeys are enticed onto the main viewing platform so tourists can get better pictures, which may put you off if you’re looking for a more ecologically minded experience.
4Sleeping
Sepilok B&BHOSTEL$
(%019-833 0901, 089-534050; www.sepilokbednbreakfast.com.my; Jln Fabia; camping RM20, dm with fan/air-con RM35/45, d with air-con RM138-195; aW)
Located about 400m from the Rainforest Discovery Centre, this place has an authentic, relaxed hostel vibe. Dorms are spartan but clean and comfortable and supplied with fresh linen. Pitta Lodge has self-catering facilities for families. Camping here is better in March and April when there’s less rain. Wi-fi is available only in the reception/restaurant and the eight rooms of Hornbill Lodge. Transport to SORC can be arranged at a very reasonable RM5 per person.
Sepilok Jungle ResortRESORT$
(%089-533031; www.sepilokjungleresort.com; Jln Rambutan; dm RM37.10, r fan only RM84.80, r with air-con RM148.40-190.80, all include breakfast; paiWs)
Rooms are tile-floored with desk, bathroom, TV and fan or air-con; all are adequate though many are in need of refurbishment and updating. Similarly, the complimentary breakfast is not quite up to scratch; however, the restaurant’s seafood and local vegetables and fruits are excellent. The resort’s best features are the large pool and its proximity to the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre.
oSepilok Nature ResortRESORT$$
(%089-673999, 089-674999; http://sepilok.com; d RM318; aiW)
Beside an ornamental pond, this beautiful wood-accented hotel is a study in comfort: mature rubber plants shade its two-tiered central lodge, carriage lamps cast their glow on its welcoming lounge and restaurant. Chalets are roomy with sumptuous bathrooms, huge beds and private balconies. The cuisine and romantic candlelit setting at the resort’s Lake Bistro & Bar (%089-674999; Jln Sepilok; mains RM19-29; h7am-10pm) are exquisite.
Sepilok Forest Edge ResortRESORT$$
(%013-869 5069, 089-533190; www.sepilokforestedgeresort.com; Jln Rambutan; dm/d RM47.70/100, chalets RM318-678.40; aWs)
Set within manicured lawns, this stunning accommodation is choking on plants and flowers and has chalets fit for a colonial explorer, with polished-wood floors, choice art, and private balconies with wrought-iron chairs. There’s also a dorm and double rooms located in a pretty longhouse, Labuk Longhouse B&B, plus a tiny, relaxing pool/jacuzzi.
It’s around 2km or 15-minutes’ walk from the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre.
8Getting There & Away
Sepilok is located at ‘Batu 14’ – 14 miles (23km) from Sandakan.
BUS
A shuttle bus (RM4) operates between Sandakan (departing 9.30am, 11.30am, 2pm and 5pm) and Sepilok (departing 6.30am, 10.30am, 12.30pm and 4pm). The departure point in Sandakan is the bus terminal.
If coming from KK, board a Sandakan-bound bus and ask the driver to let you off at ‘Batu 14’ (RM43). You will pay the full fare, even though Sandakan is 23km away.
TAXI
If you are coming directly from Sandakan, a taxi should cost no more than RM50 (RM40 from the airport). If you want one to wait and return you to Sandakan, you’re looking at RM120.
Sungai Kinabatangan
%089
The 560km-long Kinabatangan River, Sabah’s longest waterway, is one of the best places in Southeast Asia to see jungle wildlife in its native habitat. The reason, tragically, is that creatures such as orangutans, proboscis monkeys, macaques, hornbills (all eight species) and blue-eared kingfishers have been pushed to the banks of the Kinabatangan by encroaching palm-oil plantations.
The easiest way to explore the Kinabatangan is to purchase a one- or two-night package that includes transfers from KK or Sandakan, sights such as the Gomantong Caves, river cruises and full board. However, it is possible to book transport, accommodation and river cruises independently.
1Sights
Gomantong CavesCAVE
(%089-230 189; www.sabah.gov.my/jhl; Gomantong Hill, Lower Kinabatangan; adult/child RM30/15, camera/video RM30/50; h8am-noon & 2-4.30pm, closing periods apply)
Imagine a massive crack in a mountain, a cathedral-like inner chamber shot with splinters of sunlight and a cave floor that’s swarming with cockroaches, long-legged centipedes and scorpions, and you have the Gomantong Caves. Yes, the smell is disgusting thanks to the ubiquity of bird and bat shit, and yes, you will want covered shoes and a hat, but these caves are magnificent. Moreover, the forested area around the caves conceals plenty of wildlife – including orangutans.
2Activities
The best way to see wild rainforest creatures is to take guided river cruises run by local lodges. Most take place early in the morning and around sunset, when the animals are most active. The cost is from RM100 for a two-hour river cruise, although most cruises are included in a tour package.
SPLURGE
One of National Geographic’s ‘Top 30 Lodges in the World’, Sukau Rainforest Lodge (%088-438300; www.sukau.com; 3-day, 2-night package RM1820; aW) is the most upscale digs on the Kinabatangan river. Beautifully appointed split-level rooms have wood and terrazzo floors, rain shower, lounge area and mozzie nets. There’s a fine restaurant, an onsite naturalist who gives wildlife talks and night walks, plus a welcome plunge pool to cool off in. Romantic.
4Sleeping
oTungog Rainforest Eco CampCABIN$
(%089-551070, 019-582 5214; www.mescot.org; per night incl 3 meals RM95, river cruises per boat RM95 or per person RM40 (minimum 3)) S
This eco camp faces a pretty oxbow lake by the Kinabatangan River. Luxurious it isn’t – expect wooden shelters with mattress, fragrant sheets and pillows, plus a mozzie net and shared bathrooms. However, the immersion in nature and chance to put something back by planting trees is magical. Given there are no other camps for miles, you have the wildlife to yourself.
Sukau Greenview B&BB&B$
(%013-869 6922, 089-565 266; www.sukaugreenview.net; dm/r incl breakfast RM45/60, 3-day, 2-night package incl breakfast & 3 x 2hr river trips per person RM499)
Run by locals, this lime-green wooden affair has OK dorms and basic rooms. There’s also a pleasant cafe looking out on the river. Greenview runs special elephant-sighting trips priced at RM250 per person (minimum two).
oMyne ResortRESORT$$
(%089-216093; www.myne.com.my; 2-day, 1-night package ex Sandakan in longhouse/chalet RM895/948; aW)
Situated on a sweeping bend of the river, Myne has an open, breezy reception, games room and restaurant festooned with lifeguard rings, and is vaguely reminiscent of an old wooden ship. Chalets are beautiful with peach drapes, river-facing balcony, polished-wood floors, comfy beds, dresser and flat-screen cable TV. Packages include river cruises and jungle walks. Extra activities include nocturnal walks and cruises.
8Getting There & Away
Transfers are usually arranged with your lodging as part of your package.
From KK, board a Tawau- or Lahad Datu–bound bus and ask the driver to let you off at ‘Sukau Junction’, also known as ‘Meeting Point’ – the turn-off road to reach Sukau. If you are on a Sandakan-bound bus, ask your driver to stop at the Tawau-Sandakan junction – it’s called ‘Batu 32’ or ‘Checkpoint’ (sometimes it’s known as Sandakan Mile 32).
From Sepilok or Sandakan, expect to pay around RM20 to reach ‘Batu 32’, and around RM35 if you’re on a Sandakan–Tawau bus and want to alight at ‘Meeting Point’.
Semporna
%089 / Pop 133,164
The mainland town of Semporna is rather ugly and chaotic, but it’s the gateway to some of the world’s most stunning scuba diving, off legendary Sipadan and other islands of the storied Semporna Archipelago.
2Activities
A variety of scuba operators have offices around the Semporna seafront complex and/or in KK.
oScuba JunkieDIVING
(%089-785 372; www.scuba-junkie.com; Lot 36, Block B, Semporna seafront; 2 dives from RM250; h9am-6pm) S
The most proactive conservationist outfit on Mabul, Scuba Junkie employs two full-time environmentalists and recycles much of its profits into its turtle hatchery and rehab centre and ‘shark week’ initiative. It’s also a favourite with Westerners thanks to its excellent divemasters and comfortable digs at Mabul Beach Resort. Accommodation-plus-dive packages available.
Sipadan ScubaDIVING
(%012-813 1688, 089-781 788; www.sipadanscuba.com; lot 28, block E, Semporna seafront; 3-day & 2-night package incl dives, accommodation, transfer & equipment RM1200)
Over 20 years’ experience and an international staff makes Sipadan Scuba a reliable, recommended choice. You can take your PADI Open Water course here for RM870.
SeaventuresDIVING
(%088-251 669, 017-811 6023; www.seaventuresdive.com; lot 28, block E, Semporna seafront; 4-day, 3-night package incl meals & transfers to island & airport RM3050)
Based out of their funky blue and orange ocean platform close to Mabul Island, this is a well-regarded outfit with several packages available. Offices in Semporna and in KK’s Wisma Sabah building (MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Jln Haji Saman & Jln Tun Fuad Stephens).
Seahorse SipadanDIVING
(%089-782 289, 012-279 7657; www.seahorse-sipadanscuba.org; 1st fl, lot 1, Semporna seafront; 4-day, 3-night package incl 3 dives per day, accommodation, equipment & boat transfer RM690)
Backpacker-oriented outfit with accommodation on Mabul Island.
4Sleeping
oScuba Junkie Dive LodgeHOSTEL$
(%089-785372; www.scuba-junkie.com; block B 36, 458 Semporna seafront; diver or snorkeller/non-diver dm RM25/50, r without bathroom RM80/160, r with bathroom RM100/200; aW)
Walls peppered with underwater shots of marine life, clean bathrooms and a variety of air-con rooms to choose from make this a sure bet. Also it’s directly opposite Scuba Junkie’s office, and next to the Diver’s Bar (Semporna seafront; mains RM18-32; h7-9am & 1pm-midnight), a good spot for breakfast before you head of to the Semporna Archipelago.
Borneo Global Sipadan BackPackersHOSTEL$
(%089-785 088; www.bgbackpackers.com/semporna; Jln Causeway; dm/tr/f incl breakfast RM40/130/150; aiW)
There are nine rooms comprising dorm, triples and family options with bathroom. There’s a friendly lobby area to chill in. It also runs three-day PADI Open Water courses.
Holiday Dive InnHOTEL$$
(%089-919148; www.holidaydiveinn.com; lot A5-A7, Semporna seafront; r from RM154, f RM217; aW)
This 24-room, fully air-conditioned hotel has spotless accommodation featuring a bright colour scheme, fresh bathrooms, TVs and some rooms with a balcony. It’s affiliated with Sipadan Scuba nearby. There’s also a nice sundowner roof lounge.
Sipadan InnHOTEL$$
(%089-781766; www.sipadaninn-hotel.com; block D, lot 19-24, Semporna seafront; d/f from RM110/170; aiW)
A slice of air-conditioned comfort, the Sipadan Inn has simple but tidy rooms with wood-lined walls, fresh linen, coffee-making facilities, spotless bathrooms and very friendly staff. Sipadan Inn 2 is nearby (Block B Semporna seafront) with pricier sea-view rooms.
5Eating
oFat Mother Seafood RestaurantSEAFOOD$
(Semporna seafront; mains RM15-30; h5-10pm)
Bustling Fat Mother’s gets terrific reviews for its warm service and wide-ranging seafood menu – your dinner will be glowering at you from the glass tanks. They’ll even prepare your own fish if you’ve caught it. Grouper and mango sauce, fish porridge, salted egg and squid, Malay curries and noodle dishes, plus free Chinese tea and melon dessert. Cold beer available.
GETTING TO INDONESIA: TAWAU TO TARAKAN & NUNUKAN
Getting to the border Tawau is the only crossing point with Kalimantan where foreigners can get a visa to enter Indonesia. The local Indonesian consulate (%089-752969, 089-772052; Jln Sinn Onn, Wisma Fuji; h8am-noon & 1 or 2pm-4pm Mon-Fri, closed Indonesian and Malaysian public holidays) is known for being fast and efficient – many travellers are in and out in an hour. The consulate is in Wisma Fuji, on Jln Sinn Onn. Flag down a taxi (RM15) and ask the driver to drop you off in front of the consulate.
Visa applications are processed between 9.30am and 2pm Monday to Friday. You technically need to either provide proof of onward travel or a credit card, which consulate staff will make a copy of. A 60-day tourist visa will cost RM170 and require two passport photos. Bank on spending at least one night in town before shipping off to Indonesia, given the ferry departure schedule, and bring extra cash to the consulate, as there are no ATMs nearby.
Ferry companies Tawindo Express and Indomaya Express make the three- to four-hour trip to Tarakan (RM140; 11.30am Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 10.30am Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday) and the one-hour trip to Nunukan (RM65; 10am and 3pm daily except Sunday). We recommend showing up at least 60 minutes before departure to get a ticket; less than that is cutting it fine. A taxi ride to the ferry terminal costs RM10. MASWings flies from Tawau to Tarakan (RM225) on Saturday, Monday and Thursday.
At the border Blue minibusess in Tarakan can get you around the city for Rp3000; expect to pay around Rp20,000 to get to the airport.
Moving On Ferry company Pelni (www.pelni.co.id) has boats to Balikpapan and the Sulawesi ports of Toli-Toli, Pare-Pare and Makassar..
8Information
If you’re arriving in Semporna under your own steam, leave the bus and minivan drop-off area and head towards the mosque’s minaret. This is the way to the waterfront. Follow the grid of concrete streets to the right until you reach ‘Semporna Seafront’ – home to the diving operators, each stacked one next to the other in a competitive clump.
Semporna has several ATMs.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Flights to Tawau from KK and KL land at Tawau Airport, roughly 28km from town. A taxi from Tawau airport to Semporna costs RM100 (30 minutes), while Tawau–Semporna buses (RM20, 50 minutes) will stop at the airport if you ask the driver nicely. Buses that do not stop at the airport will let you off at Mile 28, where you will have to walk a few (unshaded) kilometres to the terminal.
Remember that flying less than 24 hours after diving can cause serious health issues, even death.
BUS
The ‘terminal’ is vaguely around the Milimewa supermarket not too far from the mosque. All buses run from early morning until 4pm (except Kota Kinabalu) and leave when full.
Kota Kinabalu (RM75, nine hours) leaves at around 7am or 7pm.
Lahad Datu (RM30, 2½ hours)
Sandakan (RM45, 5½ hours)
Tawau (RM25, 1½ hours)
Semporna Archipelago
The stunning sapphire waters and emerald isles of the Semporna Archipelago, home to Bajau sea gypsies in crayola-coloured boats, are plucked from your most vivid dreams of tropical paradise. Of course few visitors come this way for the islands – rather, it is the ocean and everything beneath its glassy surface, that appeals. This is first and foremost a diving destination – one of the best in the world.
MEN IN BLACK: SEMPORNA SECURITY SITUATION
If staying in Mabul, you’ll inevitably notice the presence of black-clad armed police patrolling the beach and the fact that there’s a 6pm curfew to be back in your resort. Try not to be alarmed, they’re here for your safety and as a powerful deterrent. Their presence is a response to a number of incidents involving kidnap-for-ransom groups from southern Philippines.
But is it now safe in the archipelago? While kidnappers continue to be active in the region, the beefed-up police numbers on the islands appears to have forced them to look elsewhere for their ransoms. For now, the curfew remains and many international embassies recommend reconsidering your need to travel here. Always check the latest security warnings with your home country’s travel advisories.
2Activities
In local speak ‘Semporna’ means perfect, but there is only one island in the glittering Semporna Archipelago that takes this title. Sipadan, aka Pulau Sipidan, 36km off the southeast coast, is perfection. Roughly a dozen delineated dive sites orbit the island – the most famous being Barracuda Point, where chevron and blacktail barracuda merge to form impenetrable walls of undulating fish.
There are many other reefs in the archipelago worth exploring. The macro-diving around Mabul (or ‘Pulau Mabul’) is world-famous. The submerged sites around Kapalai, Mataking and Sibuan are also of note.
The government issues 120 passes (RM40) to Sipadan each day. Each dive company is issued a predetermined number of passes per day depending on the size of its operation and the general demand for permits. Advance booking is, therefore, highly advised.
A three-dive day trip costs between RM300 and RM500, and equipment rental comes to about RM60 per day. Although most of the diving in the area is ‘fun diving’, Open Water certifications are available. A three-day Open Water course will set you back at least RM975.
Several dive operators are based at their respective resorts, while others have shopfronts and offices in Semporna and/or KK.
4Sleeping
The archipelago’s only relatively inexpensive accommodation is on Mabul, 26km southeast of Semporna and 14km north of Sipadan. Prices rise and places fill fast in July and August. Mabul is endowed with a white-sand beach, fantastically blue waters, a marine police base and two small settlements: on the northeast coast, a hamlet of Bajau sea gypsies, known for their colourful, pointy-prowed boats called jonkong; on the southwest coast, a Suluk and Malay stilt village is home to several guesthouses.
Seahorse Sipadan Scuba LodgeRESORT$
(%Semporna 089-782 289; www.seahorse-sipadanscuba.org; Mabul Island; packages incl room, meals, dives from RM518)
Seahorse has a few rooms showing their age with patchy lino floors, yellow walls and an open deck to catch the breeze but nice little touches like conch shells on tables. There’s also a dependable dive outfit here.
Uncle Chang’sGUESTHOUSE$
(%017-895 002, 089-786 988, 089-781 002; www.ucsipadan.com; Mabul; dm RM75, d without/with air-con RM90/110; a)
If Chang’s was an avuncular connection, he’d be a rough old seadog, shipwrecked amid the stilted weaveworld of the Malay village. Think banana-yellow basic rattan-walled rooms in small chalets, a lively threadbare communal deck with occasional jam sessions and a happy, sociable vibe. There’s also a well-known dive school here with seven daily dive permits to Sipadan.
Sipadan Dive Centre (SDC)RESORT$
(%088-240 584, 012-821 8288; www.sdclodges.com; Mabul; 3-day packages incl 5 dives dm/r RM885/1045; a)
Simple rainbow-coloured huts with attached bathroom, air-con, Caribbean-blue walls, fresh linen, wood floors, and a dive outfit – and less-cramped quarters compared to other budget digs thanks to its spacious compound – make this a winner. Friendly management too; they cook up barbecue feasts by night.
oScuba Junkie Mabul Beach ResortRESORT$$
(%089-785 372; www.scuba-junkie.com; Mabul; dm RM142, d with fan/air-con from RM184232; aW) S
Run by a lovely American couple, this place attracts a younger international crowd with a little cash to splash on semi-luxe digs. Superfresh rooms come with porches and bathrooms, polished wood floors and choice decor. Dorms are airy and of a good size, plus there’s a welcoming central gazebo which houses the lively restaurant/bar. Prices above include generous buffet meals.
8Getting There & Away
Your accommodation will arrange any transport needs from Semporna or Tawau airport (sometimes included, sometimes for an extra fee – ask!).
Pulau Labuan
%087 / Pop 86,910
The island of the Federal Territory of Labuan lies some 115km southwest of KK and only 50km northeast of BSB (Brunei). Shopping here is duty free, alcohol is cheap and the ferry connections are convenient, making Labuan an attractive destination for local travellers.
The sultan of Brunei ceded Labuan to the British in 1846 and it remained part of the empire for 115 years. The only interruption came during WWII, when the Japanese held the island for three years.
Bandar Labuan is the main town and the transit point for ferries linking Kota Kinabalu and Brunei – the best way to travel between the two countries.
4Sleeping
Labuan Homestay ProgrammeHOMESTAY$
(%Bukit Kuda 013-851 1907, Patau Patau 2 016-824 6193, Sungai Labu 016-804 1147; www.tourism.gov.my/niche/homestay; 1/2 days incl full board RM70/150)
This excellent service matches visitors with a friendly local in one of three villages around the island: Patau Patau 2, Kampong Sungai Labu and Kampong Bukit Kuda. If you want to be near Bandar Labuan, ask for accommodation at Patau Patau 2 – it’s a charming stilt village out on the bay. If you want to enrol in the program, book at least a few days in advance.
oTiara LabuanHOTEL$$
(%087-414300; www.tiaralabuan.com; Jln Tanjung Batu; r incl breakfast from RM368; aW)
Pulau Labuan’s favourite hotel is a cut above the rest with its cobalt-blue outdoor pool nestled in manicured gardens at Tanjung Batu. There’s an excellent Asian-fusion restaurant, courtyard bar and open-range kitchen, plus large and alluring wood-signatured rooms with bed runners, snow-white linen, spotless bathrooms and recessed lighting.
8Getting There & Away
Kota Kinabalu Passenger ferries (business/economy class RM31-44/RM26-39, 3¼ hours) depart KK for Labuan from Monday to Saturday at 8am and 1.30pm (3pm Sunday). In the opposite direction, they depart the Labuan Ferry Terminal (Jln Merdeka) for KK from Monday to Saturday at 8am and 1pm, and 10.30am and 3pm on Sundays.
Sarawak There are ferries to Limbang (two hours, RM17-31) and Lawas (2¼ hours, RM18-33) in Sarawak’s Limbang Division.
GETTING TO BRUNEI: PULAU LABUAN TO BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN
Getting to the border Ferries depart Bandar Labuan for the Bruneian port of Muara (RM40, 1¼ hours), daily at 9am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm and 4pm.
At the border In Brunei, most visitors are granted a visa on arrival for free, although Australians and Chinese must pay a fee.
Moving on You’ll be dropped at Serasa Ferry Terminal; from here buses 37 or 39 can take you to central Bandar Seri Begawan for B$1 (one hour). Express buses (B$2) to BSB are supposed to coincide with the ferry arrivals. A taxi should cost around B$30.