PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – WEST COAST
Melaka City
%06 / Pop 484,885
The peacock of Malaysian cities, Melaka City preens with its wealth of colourful trishaws, homegrown galleries and crimson colonial buildings. The city’s historic centre achieved Unesco World Heritage status in 2008 and since then Melaka City’s tourism industry has developed at breakneck pace. Old shophouses and mansions have enjoyed makeovers as galleries and hotels and Melaka City’s kaleidoscope of architectural styles – spanning Peranakan, Portuguese, Dutch and British elements – is well preserved.
Inevitably, a strong whiff of commercialism has accompanied this success. However, it’s easy to feel the town’s old magic (and get a seat at popular restaurants) on quiet weekdays. Melaka City, as it has for centuries, continues to exude tolerance and welcomes cultural exchange.
1Sights
1Town Square & Bukit St Paul
StadthuysHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-282 6526; Dutch Sq; foreign/local visitor RM10/4; 
h9am-5.30pm Sat-Thu, to 12.15pm & 2.45-5.30pm Fri)
Melaka’s favourite trishaw pick-up spot is the cerise-coloured Stadthuys. This former town hall and governor’s residence dates to the 1650s and is believed to be the oldest Dutch building in the East. Erected after the Dutch captured Melaka in 1641, it’s a reproduction of the former Stadhuis (town hall) of the Frisian town of Hoorn in the Netherlands. Today it’s a museum complex exhibiting colourful artefacts like record-breaking trishaws and bird-shaped longboats; the History & Ethnography Museum is the highlight.
Admission covers all the small museums within the complex. There is no fee for guided tours, which take place at 10.30am and 2.30pm on Saturday and Sunday.
For in-depth acquaintance with Melaka past and present, peruse the Governor’s House, Democratic Government Museum, a Literature Museum focusing on Malaysian writers, Cheng Ho Gallery and the Education Museum.
Maritime Museum & Naval MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-283 0926; Jln Merdeka; adult/child RM10/6; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 6.30pm Fri-Sun)
Embark on a voyage through Melaka’s maritime history at these linked museums. The most enjoyable of the museum’s three sections (one ticket covers them all) is housed in a huge re-creation of the Flor de la Mar, a Portuguese ship that sank off the coast of Melaka. The fun of posing on the deck and clambering between floors rather eclipses the displays and dioramas.
St Paul’s ChurchRUINS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Kota; h24hr) 
F
The evocative ruin of St Paul’s Church crowns the summit of Bukit St Paul overlooking central Melaka. Steep stairs from Jln Kota and Jln Chang Koon Cheng lead up to this faded sanctuary, originally built by a Portuguese captain in 1521. The church was regularly visited by St Francis Xavier, whose marble statue – minus his right hand and a few toes – stands in front of the ruin.
Porta de SantiagoRUINS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; A’Famosa; Jln Kota; h24hr) F
Most visitors pause for a photo at Porta de Santiago before hiking to the ruined church on Bukit St Paul. It was built as a Portuguese fortress in 1511; the British took over in 1641 and destroyed it in 1806 to prevent it falling into Napoleon’s hands. Fortunately Sir Stamford Raffles arrived in 1810 and saved what remains today.
1Chinatown
Chinatown is Melaka City’s most interesting area. Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock, formerly called Heeren St, was the preferred address for wealthy Peranakan (also known as Straits Chinese) traders. Jln Hang Jebat, formerly known as Jonker St, is dominated by souvenir shops and restaurants; every weekend it hosts the Jonker Walk Night Market. Jln Tokong, which changes name to Jln Tokang Emas and Jln Tokang Besi as you head from north to south, is home to several Chinese temples, a mosque and an Indian temple – the reason it is also known as Harmony St.
oBaba & Nyonya Heritage MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-283 1273; http://babanyonyamuseum.com; 48-50 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; adult/child RM16/11; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun)
Touring this traditional Baba-Nonya (Peranakan) townhouse transports you to a time when women peered at guests through decorative partitions and every social situation had its specific location within the house. The captivating museum is arranged to look like a typical 19th-century Baba-Nonya residence. Tour guides enliven the setting with their arch sense of humour. Book ahead or arrive just before the strike of the hour. Last tour of the day is an hour before closing time.
8 Heeren StreetHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 8 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; h11am-4pm) F
This 18th-century, Dutch-period residential house was restored as a model conservation project. A guide is on hand to explain the features and history behind this airy two-storey building. Entry is free, but donations are appreciated. Opening hours can be spotty.
Cheng Hoon Teng TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Qing Yun Ting or Green Clouds Temple; %06-282 9343; www.chenghoonteng.org.my; 25 Jln Tokong; h7am-7pm) F
Malaysia’s oldest still-operating Chinese temple, constructed in 1673, remains a central place of worship for the Buddhist community in Melaka City. It’s also a testament to the perseverance of the local Chinese community who funded its restoration following traditional methods, from the ornate roof ceramics to the painted tigers by the door. The temple is dedicated to Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy.
Masjid Kampung KlingMOSQUE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Jln Hang Lekiu & Jln Tokong Emas) F
While the mosque oiginally dates back to 1748, the 19th-century rebuild you see today mingles a number of styles. Its multi-tiered meru roof (a stacked form similar to that seen in Balinese Hindu architecture) owes its inspiration to Hindu temples, the Moorish watchtower minaret is typical of early mosques in Sumatra, while English and Dutch tiles bedeck its interior.
1Elsewhere
oVilla SentosaHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Peaceful Villa; %06-282 3988; Jln Kampung Morten; entry by donation; hhr vary, usually 9am-1pm & 2-6pm)
The highlight of visiting the charming Malay village of Kampung Morten (Jln Kampung Morten; h4pm Mon, Wed & Fri) F is this living museum within a 1920s kampung house. Visitors (or rather, guests) are welcomed by a member of the household who points out period objects, including photographs of family members, Ming dynasty ceramics and a century-old Quran. You’re unlikely to leave without a photo-op on plush velvet furniture or a few strikes of the lucky gong.
Bukit ChinaCEMETERY
(Jln Puteri Hang Li Poh)
More than 12,500 graves, including about 20 Muslim tombs, cover the 25 grassy hectares of serene ‘Chinese Hill’. In the middle of the 15th century, the sultan of Melaka imported the Ming emperor’s daughter from China as his bride in a move to seal relations between the two countries. She brought with her a vast retinue, including 500 handmaidens, who settled around Bukit China. It has been a Chinese area ever since.
DON’T LEAVE MELAKA WITHOUT TRYING …
Chicken rice balls Steamed chicken paired with small balls of glutinous rice, often greased with stock or fat and served with a piquant dipping sauce.
Asam fish Freshwater fish doused in a mouth-burning stew of chilli and tamarind.
Nonya laksa Melaka’s version of this coconut-milk and noodle soup, infused with a powerful lemongrass flavour.
Satay celup Submerge your choice of tofu, fish or meat into a spicy, bubbling soup.
Curry debel Hot chicken curry that marries Portuguese and Malay flavours.
Cendol An addictive shaved-ice dessert with green tentacles (sorry, noodles), syrups, fruit and coconut milk.
TTours
Melaka River CruiseCRUISE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-286 5468, 06-281 4322; Jln Laksamana; adult/child RM17/6; h9am-11pm)
The most convenient place to board this 40-minute riverboat cruise along Sungai Melaka is at the quay near the Maritime Museum. Cruises go 9km upriver past Kampung Morten and old godown (river warehouses) with a recorded narration explaining the riverfront’s history.
Eco Bike TourCYCLING
(%019-652 5029; www.melakaonbike.com; half-day per person RM100)
Explore the fascinating landscape around Melaka City with Alias on his three-hour bike tour (minimum two people) through 20km of oil-palm and rubber-tree plantations and kampung communities. Book at least three days in advance and flag your level of fitness. Pickups are from your accommodation.
4Sleeping
oNomapsHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-283 8311; www.thenomaps.com; 11 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; dm/d RM80-100/150 all incl breakfast; 
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A real step up for Melaka’s hostel options. The attractive street art of Kenji Chai decorates the walls of this otherwise minimalist flashpackers in a key Chinatown location. Six- and four-bed dorms are tiny but have colourful duvets and quality mattresses. Free laundry and a comfy TV room are other pluses. Rates are slightly cheaper on weekdays (dorm beds from RM55).
Apa Kaba Home & StayGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012-798 1232, 06-283 8196; www.apa-kaba.com; 28 Kg Banda Kaba; d/tr with shared bathroom from RM50/90, tw/tr RM90/135, all incl breakfast; aW)
This tranquil homestay has a low-key kampung (village) setting, but is within easy walking distance of central Melaka City. The ramshackle 1912 building is a mishmash of Malay and Chinese styles. Rooms are simple, arranged on the ground-floor around the reception (the more expensive have air-con). Completing the idyllic picture are the large garden with dangling mango trees and strutting house cat.
Ringo’s FoyerGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-281 6393, 016-668 8898; www.ringosfoyer.com; 46A Jln Portugis; dm/d/q incl breakfast from RM38/80/140; aW)
The friendly owners do a great job of keeping the atmosphere sociable at Ringo’s Foyer, particularly in the rooftop cafe and hang-out areas. Beds in the 18-bed dorm are pod-style, allowing reasonable privacy. With bike rental, free lockers, laundry (RM8) and guitars, this place has everything a weary backpacker could want.
oHotel PuriHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-282 5588; www.hotelpuri.com; 118 Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock; d RM188-299, tr from RM310, q from RM380, all incl breakfast; aiW)
Why merely tour one of Melaka’s heritage buildings when you can stay overnight? Elegant Hotel Puri inhabits a superbly renovated Peranakan mansion dating to 1822. Its elaborate lobby, decked out with beautiful old cane and inlaid furniture, opens to a fountained courtyard garden. A small on-site museum holds lavish antiques. Rooms have crisp sheets, shuttered windows and a regal colour scheme.
5Eating
Peranakan cuisine is Melaka City’s most famous type of cooking. It’s also known as Nonya (or Nyonya), an affectionate term for a Peranakan wife (often the family chef). You’ll also find Portuguese Eurasian food, Indian, Chinese and more.
oNancy’s KitchenMALAYSIAN$
(%06-283 6099; www.eatatnancyskit.com; 13 Jln KL 3/8, Taman Kota Laksamana; mains from RM10; h11am-5pm Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat)
The mouth-watering Peranakan cuisine stirred up in Nancy’s Kitchen lives up to local hype. Service can be curt, and a wait is inevitable at weekends, but it’s worth it for the juicy pork fried with bean curd, or signature dish candlenut chicken – simmered in a nutty sauce, fragrant with lemongrass. Buy some kuih (sticky-rice sweets) on your way out.
oPak Putra RestaurantPAKISTANI$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012-601 5876; 58 Jln Kota Laksmana 4; mains RM10-12; h5.30pm-1am, closed alternate Mon; 
v)
Tikka chickens rotate hypnotically on skewers, luring diners to this excellent Pakistani restaurant. With aromatic vegetarian dishes, seafood and piquant curries, there’s no shortage of choice. The unchallenged highlights are oven-puffed naan bread and chicken fresh from the clay tandoor. Portions are generous and service is speedy.
SelvamINDIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-281 9223; 2 Jln Temenggong; mains RM5-11; h7am-10pm; v)
This well-loved banana-leaf restaurant is excellent value, with efficient (if not always warm) staff. Generous servings of aromatic chicken biryani are eclipsed by the vegetarian offerings, in particular the Friday-afternoon veggie special. Selvam is also an excellent stop for a breakfast dosa or idli (rice-and-lentil cake).
Shui Xian VegetarianCHINESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012-635 8052; 43 Jln Hang Lekiu; mains RM3-6; h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat; v)
In a city where vegetable dishes so often arrive strewn with shrimp or pork, vegetarians can breathe a sigh of relief here. This no-frills canteen whips up meat-free versions of char kway teow, laksa and even ‘chicken’ rice balls.
Low Yong MohCHINESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-282 1235; 32 Jln Tokong Emas; dim sum RM2.40-3.70; h5.30am-noon Wed-Mon)
Famous across Melaka for its large and delectably well-stuffed pao (steamed pork buns), this place is Chinatown’s biggest breakfast treat. With high ceilings, plenty of fans running and a view of Masjid Kampung Kling, the atmosphere oozes charm. It’s usually packed with talkative, newspaper-reading locals by around 7am. Food offerings thin out by 11am, so arrive early.
Amy Heritage CuisinePERANAKAN$$
(MAP; %06-286 8819; Jln Melaka Raya 24; mains RM22-28; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9pm Tue-Sun)
Nipping at the heels of Melaka’s long-time Peranakan favourite Nancy’s Kitchen, Amy Heritage Cuisine dishes up sensational food in a no-frills restaurant, 1km southeast of Dutch Sq. Melt-in-the-mouth candlenut chicken, spicy asam fish and kangkung belacan (spinach flavoured with shrimp and chilli) make this perennially busy place worth booking.
6Drinking & Nightlife
On Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, Jonker Walk Night Market in Chinatown closes Jln Hang Jebat to traffic and the handful of bars along the lane become a mini street party with live music and tables spilling beyond the sidewalks.
oDaily FixCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-283 4858; www.facebook.com/thedailyfixcafe; 55 Jln Hang Jebat; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 8.30am Sat & Sun; W)
You may have to wait patiently for a spot in Melaka City’s trendiest cafe, hidden away behind a Chinatown souvenir shop. Most of Daily Fix’s fans are here for the impressive brunches (RM18 to RM29), such as banana French toast and eggs Benedict. The signature rose latte, sprinkled with petals, looks as good as it tastes.
oGeographér CafeBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-281 6813; www.geographer.com.my; 83 Jln Hang Jebat; h10am-1am Sun-Thu, from 9am Fri & Sat; W)
A swinging soundtrack of Eurotrash, jazz and classic pop keeps the beers flowing at this traveller magnet. It’s a well-ventilated cafe-bar, strewn with greenery. Despite bordering busy Jonker St, it feels like a haven. Monday nights have live jazz while Fridays and Saturdays bring a father-daughter vocal-keyboard duet (both 8.30pm). Geographér also serves decent food ranging from American-style fast food to nasi lemak (mains RM15), though it doesn’t compare favourably against the cheap and delicious street food outside.
Me & Mrs JonesPUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %016-234 4292; 3 Jln Hang Kasturi; h7pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
This cosy pub is staunchly unhip and all the more enjoyable for it. At weekends there’s live blues and rock, often with retired co-owner Mr Tan leading a jam session. Relax into the atmosphere and grab a beer or juice (long menus are not the Jones’ style).
7Shopping
oJonker Walk Night MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Hang Jebat; h6-11pm Fri-Sun)
Food hawkers, trinket sellers and fortune tellers pile into Jln Hang Jebat for Melaka City’s weekly extravaganza of street food and shopping. The street closes to traffic, shops stay open late, and a party atmosphere prevails. Graze on barbecued quail eggs and kuih (sticky-rice sweets) as you squeeze between souvenir and T-shirt stalls, pausing to watch the occasional Chinese karaoke performance. The night market is unashamedly commercial but this riotously colourful experience shouldn’t be missed.
8Information
There are plenty of ATMs at shopping malls but fewer in Chinatown.
Mahkota Medical Centre (%06-285 2999, emergency 06-285 2999; www.mahkotamedical.com; Jln Merdeka; h24hr) A private hospital offering a full range of services including accident and emergency care.
Post Office (Jln Laksamana; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
GETTING TO INDONESIA: MELAKA TO DUMAI
Getting to the border High-speed Indomal Express (%019-665 7055, 06-286 2506; G35, Jln PM2, Plaza Mahkota,) ferries make the trip from Melaka to Dumai (Jln Merdeka) in Sumatra daily at 10am (one way/return RM110/170, two hours; child tickets are half price). The quay is walking distance or a short taxi ride from most hotels and guesthouses. Tickets are available at Tunas Rupat Follow Me Express (%06-283 2506; www.tunasrupat.com; G-29, Jln PM10, Plaza Mahkota) near the wharf.
At the border Citizens of most countries can obtain a 30-day visa on arrival (US$35).
Moving on Dumai is on Sumatra’s east coast and is a 10-hour bus ride from Bukittinggi.
8Getting There & Away
Melaka City is 149km south from Kuala Lumpur, 220km northwest from Johor Bahru and 80km southeast from Port Dickson, and is served by regular direct buses from major cities around Peninsular Malaysia.
Melaka Sentral (%06-288 1324; www.melakasentral.com.my; Jln Sentral), the huge, modern long-distance bus station, is 5km north of the city. Luggage deposit at Melaka Sentral is RM2 per bag. You’ll also find an ATM and restaurants here.
A medley of privately run bus companies make checking timetables a herculean feat; scout popular routes at www.expressbusmalaysia.com/coach-from-melaka or book ahead (not a bad idea on busy weekends or if you have a plane to catch) on www.busonlineticket.com. You can also buy bus tickets in advance at Discovery Cafe (%012-683 5606, 06-292 5606; www.discovery-malacca.com; 3 Jln Bunga Raya) in downtown Melaka City – there’s a small commission, dependent on the ticket fare.
BUSES FROM MELAKA
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cameron Highlands | 65 | 5 | 1 daily |
| Ipoh | 34-38 | 5 | 5 daily |
| Johor Bahru | 18-21 | 3½ | more than hourly |
| KLIA | 24-28 | 2 | more than hourly |
| Kota Bharu | 57 | 10 | 1 daily |
| Kuala Lumpur | 10-14 | 2 | half-hourly |
| Mersing | 25 | 4½ | 3 daily |
| Penang | 49-55 | 7 | 3 daily |
| Singapore | 24-27 | 4½ | almost hourly |
8Getting Around
Melaka City is small enough to walk around or, for the traffic fearless, you can rent a bike for between RM5 and RM10 per day from guesthouses.
Taking to Melaka City’s streets by trishaw is a must – rates are supposedly fixed at RM40 per hour, but you’ll still have to bargain. A one-way trip within town should cost roughly RM20.
Taxis should cost around RM10 to RM15 for a trip anywhere around town.
Cameron Highlands
%05
Emerald tea plantations unfurl across valleys, and the air is freshened by eucalyptus – Malaysia’s largest hill-station area feels instantly restorative. Temperatures in these 1300m to 1829m heights rarely top 30°C, inspiring convoys of weekenders to sip tea and eat strawberries here. Though in Pahang, the highlands are accessed from Perak.
From north to south, the Cameron Highlands roughly encompass Tringkap, Brinchang, Tanah Rata, Ringlet and their surrounds. Named after explorer Sir William Cameron, who mapped the area in 1885, the highlands were developed during the British colonial period. Gardens, bungalows and even a golf course sprang up during the 1930s, making the Cameron Highlands a refuge for heat-addled Brits to mop their brows.
Tourism is big business, so expect views to be occasionally obscured by construction sites for yet another megaresort. But between eco-conscious trekking, temples and genteel tea culture, you can find serenity amid the tourist hubbub.
1Sights & Activities
Besides getting in touch with your inner Englishman via tea and strawberries, the main pastime in the Cameron Highlands is hiking. Maps are available at most guesthouses and tour offices. Yellow-and-black signboards mark the trails, many of which aren’t maintained very well and can be treacherous, steep and unclear. Before setting out on any trail, always ask locally about its safety; the folk at Father’s Guest House are seriously on the ball when it comes to the ever-changing picture of trails, routes and safety advice. Always carry water, some food, and rain gear to guard against unpredictable weather, and don’t set out in the mid-afternoon (darkness descends quickly). Let your guesthouse know your planned route and predicted return time. Better yet, get a local guide.
Boh Sungei Palas Tea EstatePLANTATION
(MAP; %05-496 2096; www.boh.com.my; h8.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) F
Touristy but thoroughly good fun, the Cameron Highlands’ most famous tea plantation has a modern visitors centre and a cafe with spectacular views over undulating, tea-clad valleys. Watch a short video on the estate’s history, then browse every imaginable version of Boh tea in the giftshop. Free 15-minute tours showing the tea-making process are conducted half-hourly; wait for a staff member to collect you from the visitors centre.
Sam Poh TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP; Brinchang) F
This scarlet-and-yellow temple complex, just below Brinchang about 1km off the main road, leaves visitors rubbing their eyes. Inside, look for the burnished statues of the defenders of Buddhist law, then continue to the inner temple building (remove your shoes) where hundreds of ceramic tiles feature intricate Buddha images, each one hand-painted. The temple is dedicated to medieval admiral and eunuch Zheng Ho and is allegedly the fourth-largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia.
TTours
oEco CameronTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %05-491 5388; www.ecocameron.com; 72-A Persiaran Camellia 4, Tanah Rata; tours RM50-120; h8am-9.30pm)
This outfit specialises in nature tours of the Cameron Highlands: hiking, orchid walks, birdwatching and insect-spotting. Most enthralling are guided hikes through the Mossy Forest – Eco Cameron has exclusive access to a protected trail.
Jason Marcus ChinTOURS
(%010-380 8558; jason.marcus.chin@gmail.com; half-/full-day tour from RM50/70)
Exceptional nature guide Jason Marcus Chin leads guided group hikes (from two to 10 people). Jason’s observational skills are impressive, as is his knowledge of local flora and fauna.
CS Travel & ToursTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %05-491 1200; www.cstravel.com.my; 47 Jln Besar, Tanah Rata; h7.30am-7.30pm)
This agency leads popular half-day ‘countryside tours’ (adult/child RM25/20) around the highlands’ main sights. More worthwhile are the ‘sunrise tours’ (adult/child RM65/55), which include breakfast along with the golden-hour views.
4Sleeping
The highlands are busy during school holidays in April, August and December; book well in advance. Prices rise by around 25% at weekends and during holidays.
oFather’s Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %016-566 1111; www.fathersguesthouse.net; 4 Jln Mentigi, Tanah Rata; dm RM30, d RM95, d/tr/q without bathroom from RM74/95/127; piW)
Pleasant private rooms and clean 10-person dorms elicit sighs of relief from travellers checking in at Father’s. A merry vibe prevails and friendly staff ooze local knowledge, and there are handy perks like hairdryers, free tea and coffee, and an on-site cafe (breakfast from RM3).
Eight MentigiHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %05-491 5988; www.eightmentigi.com; 8A Jln Mentigi, Tanah Rata; dm/d/tr from RM25/70/100; piW)
The digs, from six-bed dorms to spacious private rooms, are simple. But the host Smith cultivates a welcoming ambience in this fuss-free hostel, only a stone’s throw from Tanah Rata’s main drag. Bonus: you can buy beers from the front desk.
SnoozeGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %014-669 0108, 016-666 2102; www.facebook.com/SnoozeCH; 4 Jln Besar, Brinchang; d/tr/q from RM88/120/145; W)
The bright and cheery rooms at Snooze are excellent value. The cupcake wallpaper and buttercup bedsheets might be a little kitsch for some, but this clean guesthouse is one of Brinchang’s better places to stay. There are colourful sitting areas at which to chill, plus a fridge and laundry.
Daniel’s LodgeHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %05-491 5823; www.daniels.cameronhighlands.com; 9 Lg Perdah, Tanah Rata; dm RM18, d RM70, without bathroom RM40-70; iW)
The backpacker force remains strong at this longstanding hostel, also known as Kang’s. The accommodation won’t win prizes for comfort, but despite the grungy feel, it’s a functional place with perks like lockers (RM2), laundry service and a jungle-themed bar (with occasional bonfires).
5Eating
oSingh ChapatiINDIAN$
(MAP; cnr Lg Perdah & Jln Besar, Tanah Rata; mains RM7-20; h1-9pm; v)
On a lofty perch behind Tanah Rata’s main drag, Singh’s is the sweetest Indian joint in town. Dig in to fragrant biryanis, excellent veggie mains like butter paneer, its famous smoky chapati (flatbreads), and wash it down with mango lassi or masala tea. This no-frills restaurant benefits from a slightly secluded setting; try to bag a terrace table looking towards hills and mock-Tudor mansions.
Restoran Sri BrinchangINDIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 25 Jln Besar, Tanah Rata; mains RM4-20; h7am-10pm; v)
This busy place heaps spiced aubergine, pappadams and rice onto banana leaves for its filling lunches; it prides itself on spring chicken served straight from the tandoor.
Lord’s CafeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jln Besar, Tanah Rata; mains RM2.50-4.90; h10am-9pm Wed-Fri & Mon, to 6pm Sat)
Despite the neon threat from the chain restaurants encroaching on Tanah Rata, Lord’s Cafe prevails…possibly protected by the prayers decorating it inside and out. Skip the so-so breakfasts, omelettes and savoury pies: Lord’s specialities include thick mango and banana lassi and apple pie. There’s a community atmosphere, and it’s reassuringly decorated like your grandma’s living room.
8Getting There & Around
Tanah Rata’s bus station (Jln Besar) is also known as Terminal Freesia. Buy tickets a day in advance for popular destinations. Daily bus and boat transfer packages also reach Taman Negara and the Perhentian Islands.
Taxi services (%05-491 2355; Jln Besar) from Tanah Rata include Brinchang (RM10), Ringlet (RM25) and Boh Sungei Palas (RM30). For prices on additional destinations, including hiking trailheads and tea estates, see the price list posted at the taxi stop at Terminal Freesia. For touring around, a taxi costs RM25 per hour.
BUSES FROM TANAH RATA
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | DURATION | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brinchang | 2 | 20min | every 2hr, 6.30am-6.30pm |
| Ipoh | 20 | 2hr | 7 daily |
| Kuala Lumpur | 35 | 4hr | 8 daily, 8.30am-5.30pm |
| Melaka | 65 | 6hr | 1 daily |
| Penang | 32 | 5hr | 5 daily |
| Singapore | 125-140 | 10hr | 1 daily |
Ipoh
%05 / Pop 710,000
Travellers rushing from Kuala Lumpur to Penang are missing a trick if they don’t stop in historic Ipoh. This pleasant, mid-sized town is rising to prominence as an attractive city-break destination among in-the-know Malaysians (particularly food fans). It’s an exciting place for an urban interlude, as well as a convenient gateway for travel to the Cameron Highlands.
A self-guided walking tour is the best way to cover all of the colonial-era architecture (and modern street art) in Ipoh’s old town. Use the excellent Ipoh Heritage Trail maps 1 and 2, available at Ipoh’s tourist information centre (%05-208 3155; http://ipohtourism.mbi.gov.my; 1 Jln Tun Sambanthan; h10am-5pm), or simply check out the billboards around the Kong Heng Block (75 Jln Panglima; h9am-10pm Wed-Mon) area.
4Sleeping
oContainer HotelHOSTEL$
(%05-243 3311; http://containerhotel.my/ipoh; 89-91 Jln Sultan Yussuf; per pod standard/deluxe RM45/65; aW)
Hostelling is done differently at Ipoh’s Container Hotel: metal girders and concrete establish an industrial theme, evoking Ipoh’s tin-mining heyday. Instead of bunk beds, guests tuck into one of several ‘pods’ in each dorm; there’s a curtain for privacy and ‘deluxe’ pods have windows overlooking the street. Even more intriguing is the slide between floors – who needs stairs, anyway?
Abby by the RiverHOSTEL$
(%05-292 2999; www.abbyhotel.my; cnr Jln Laxamana & Jln Sultan Iskandar; 8-bed/6-bed dm RM25/30, d RM90, tr RM120; paW)
Perched next to Sultan Iskandar bridge, Abby’s is neatly positioned for access to Ipoh’s old and new towns. Dorms are cramped but clean; private rooms are a little comfier. The decor in both is somewhat reminiscent of a hospital.
5Eating
oLim Ko PiCHINESE$
(%05-253 2898; 10 Jln Sultan Iskandar; mains RM12-17; h8.30am-5.30pm)
From its colourful tiles to the secluded inner dining chambers, this relaxing cafe has a strong whiff of Ipoh’s glory days. Breakfasts are excellent value (from RM5 for eggs, toast and white coffee), while lunches include generous portions of prawn fried rice, curry noodles and smoky-but-sweet stewed pork. Service is wonderfully unrushed compared to many of Ipoh’s eateries.
oRestaurant Lou WongMALAYSIAN$
(%05-254 4190; 49 Jln Yau Tet Shin; mains RM13; h11am-9.30pm Sat-Thu)
Ipoh’s culinary pride and joy may not seem like much, with brisk staff and streetside plastic stools. But this is the place to try Ipoh’s signature dish, tauge ayam (chicken with beansprouts). Lou Wong has perfected the recipe: smooth poached chicken on soy-drenched cucumber; plump, blanched bean sprouts sprinkled with pepper; and your choice of rice or noodles on the side.
Concubine Lane Tau Fu FaCHINESE$
(www.facebook.com/concubinelanetff; 8 Jln Panglima; per bowl RM2.50; h10.30am-4.30pm; v)
A brimming bowlful of tau fu fah (bean-curd pudding) at this hole-in-the-wall canteen is the perfect excuse to linger on historic Jalan Panglima, aka ‘Concubine Lane’. Freshly prepared each morning, each pudding is topped with sugar or ginger and black sesame.
Sri Ananda Bahwan Banana LeafINDIAN$
(%05-253 9798; 7 Persiaran Bijeh Timah; mains from RM5; h7am-11pm; v)
Some of Ipoh’s best Indian food is cooked up in this simple cafeteria in Little India. Mop up chutney and dhal with a fluffy dosa or order the generous banana-leaf special, with mountains of rice and spiced okra. Leave space to take away a box of the excellent barfi, fudge-like confectionery in flavours from cashew to chocolate.
8Getting There & Away
Most travellers will arrive in Ipoh’s intercity bus station, Terminal Amanjaya (%05-526 7818, 05-526 7718; www.peraktransit.com.my; Persiaran Meru Raya 5), approximately 8km north of Ipoh. Bus 116 (RM2.40) goes between Amanjaya and the city centre until 8pm, while taxis cost roughly RM20 to RM25.
It’s worthwhile checking timetables or booking ahead using an online ticket service such as www.easybook.com.
Trains run to Kuala Lumpur (RM25 to RM40, 2½ to 3½ hours, eight daily) and Butterworth (RM30 to RM42, 2½ to four hours, four daily). Check www.ktmb.com.my for the latest info on fares and schedules.
BUSES FROM IPOH
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alor Setar | 24-29 | 3½-4 | 10 daily, 9am-4pm |
| Butterworth/George Town (Penang) | 16-25 | 2 | frequent, 9am-9pm |
| Cameron Highlands | 20-24 | 2 | 7 daily, 9.30am-5.30pm |
| Hat Yai (Thailand) | 65 | 6-7 | 1-2 daily |
| Johor Bahru | 55-70 | 7¼ | At least 8 daily, morning & evening only |
| Kota Bharu | 34-39 | 7 | At least 4 daily, morning & evening only |
| Kuala Lumpur (also KLIA/LCCT) | 20-35 | 3-3½ | half-hourly, 4.30am-10pm |
| Melaka | 36-40 | 5 | every 2hr, 8.30am-11pm |
| Singapore | 65-85 | 8 | frequent, 8.30-10.30am & 8.30-11pm |
Penang
POP 1.75 MILLION / AREA 1031 SQ KM
If there’s a more thrilling cocktail of eastern cultures than Penang, we’ve yet to find it. Penang has long served as the link between Asia’s great kingdoms and an important outlet to the markets of Europe and the Middle East. At its heart is diverse, cosmopolitan George Town, Penang Island’s main city and an urban centre that delivers old-world Asia in spades; think trishaws pedalling past watermarked Chinese shophouses and blue joss smoke perfuming the air. The freshest aspects of modern culture are present, too, in an exceptional art scene and free-spirited carnivals, all fed by an infectious local enthusiasm for Penang’s long history and kaleidoscope of cultures.
If you can tear yourself away, the rest of the island is rich in palm-fringed beaches and fishing villages, mountainous jungle and farms growing nutmeg and durian. And there’s even more of the state to explore across in Penang’s mainland section, Seberang Perai.
George Town
%04 / Pop 740,200
Combine three distinct and ancient cultures, indigenous and colonial architecture, shake for a few centuries, and garnish with some of the best food in Southeast Asia, and you’ve got the irresistible urban cocktail that is George Town.
The time-worn shophouses of the Unesco World Heritage Zone will likely spark a desire in some visitors to move straight to Pulau Penang’s most attractive city. Even more impressive is the movie set–like mishmash of Chinese temples in Little India, mosques in Chinatown, and Western-style skyscrapers and shopping complexes gleaming high above British Raj–era architecture.
The eclectic jumble makes this a city that rewards explorers. Get lost in the maze of chaotic streets and narrow lanes, past shrines decorated with strings of paper lanterns and fragrant shops selling Indian spices; or enjoy George Town’s burgeoning street-art scene, its modern cafes and fun bars.
1Sights
oBlue MansionHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion; %04-262 0006; www.cheongfatttzemansion.com; 14 Lebuh Leith; adult/child RM17/8.50; htours 11am, 2pm & 3.30pm)
The most photographed building in George Town is this magnificent 38-room, 220-window mansion, built in the 1880s and rescued from ruin in the 1990s. Its distinctive blue-hued exterior (once common in George Town) is the result of an indigo-based limewash.
Hour-long guided tours (included in the admission fee) explain the building’s feng shui and unique features, and relate stories about Cheong Fatt Tze, the rags-to-riches Hakka merchant-trader who commissioned the mansion for his seventh (and favourite) wife.
oKhoo KongsiHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-261 4609; www.khookongsi.com.my; 18 Cannon Sq; adult/child RM10/1; h9am-6pm)
This spectacular clanhouse is one of the most impressive in George Town. Gorgeous ceramic sculptures of immortals, carp, dragons, and carp becoming dragons dance across the roof ridges. The interior is dominated by incredible murals depicting birthdays, weddings and, most impressively, the 36 celestial guardians. On the last Saturday evening of each month the structure is illuminated and entry is free from 6.30pm to 9pm.
oPinang Peranakan MansionMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-264 2929; www.pinangperanakanmansion.com.my; 29 Lebuh Gereja; adult/child RM21.20/10.60; h9am-5pm)
This ostentatious, mint-green structure is among the most stunning restored residences in George Town. Every door, wall and archway is carved and often painted in gold leaf, and the grand rooms are furnished with majestic wood furniture with intricate mother-of-pearl inlay. There are displays of charming antiques, and fascinating black-and-white photos of the family in regal Chinese dress grace the walls. Self-guided visits are possible, or enquire with staff about the timing of occasional guided tours (included in the ticket price).
Cheah KongsiHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-261 3837; www.cheahkongsi.com.my; 8 Lebuh Armenian; adult/child RM10/5; h9am-5pm, to 1pm Sat)
Looking splendid after a major restoration, Cheah Kongsi is home to the oldest Straits Chinese clan association in Penang. The ornate front of the clanhouse can be seen clearly across a grassy lawn from Lebuh Pantai, but the official entrance where you need to buy a ticket is on Lebuh Armenian.
Besides serving as a temple and assembly hall, this building has also been the registered headquarters of several clans.
Hin Bus DepotGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://hinbusdepot.com; 31A Jln Gurdwara; hnoon-8pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun) F
The elegant remains of this former bus station have become a vibrant hub for George Town’s burgeoning contemporary-art scene. Half a dozen artist studios and a gallery host exhibitions (ranging from sculpture to photography), an arts-and-crafts market every Sunday (11am to 5pm), and art-house movies and documentaries on Tuesdays. The open-air areas are bedecked with street art.
Chew JettyAREA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Pengkalan Weld)
The largest and most intact of the clan jetties, Chew Jetty consists of 75 elevated houses, several Chinese temples, a community hall and lots of tourist facilities, all linked by elevated wooden walkways. It’s a fun place to wander around admiring docked fishing boats while the scent of frying fish wafts across the walkways. There are numerous places to browse souvenirs and nibble snacks.
GEORGE TOWN’S STREET ART
The current craze for street art in George Town shows no sign of abating. It’s a trend that goes back to 2010, when Penang’s state government commissioned the studio Sculpture At Work (http://sculptureatwork.com) to do a series of cartoon steel art pieces across town. Affixed to George Town street walls, these 3D artworks detail local customs and heritage with humour, while also providing a quirky counterpoint to the natural urban beauty of the historic core.
It was in 2012, however, that George Town’s street-art scene really took off. For that year’s George Town Festival, Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic (www.ernestzacharevic.com) was commissioned to do a series of public paintings in the city centre, some of which he chose to combine with objects such as bicycles, motorcycles and architectural features. The art has been a smash hit, with his Kids on a Bicycle (Lebuh Armenian) piece on Lebuh Armenian having become a major tourist attraction, complete with long lines and souvenir stalls.
Zacharevic’s success led to the ‘101 Lost Kittens’ series of murals commissioned for the 2013 George Town Festival, with the intent of bringing attention to the issue of stray animals; there have also been many examples of privately funded public art. Other major street artists’ works to look out for include Russian artist Julia Volchkova’s striking pieces (you’ll see one off an alley on Lg Stewart) and UK artist Thomas Powell (www.thomaspowellartist.com), whose works are at the Hin Bus Depot Art Centre.
‘Marking George Town’, a free map showing the location of pieces by Ernest Zacharevic and some of the other artists mentioned above, is available at Penang Global Tourism.
TTours
There’s a huge variety of self-guided George Town tours, from food walks to those focusing on traditional trades or architecture – pick up a pamphlet of the routes at Penang Global Tourism. Likewise, the Penang Global Ethic Project (www.globalethicpenang.net) has put together a World Religion Walk that takes you past the iconography and houses of worship of Christians, Muslims, Hindus, Sikhs, Buddhists and Chinese traditional religion.
If walking isn’t your thing, consider the Hop-On Hop-Off (www.myhoponhopoff.com/pg; single trip adult/child RM20/10, 3-day pass adult/child RM55/30; h9am-8pm) city bus route, which winds its way around the perimeter of the Unesco Protected Zone. It’s a good way to get a quick overview of the town, and you can get on and off at one of 17 stops.
SPLURGE
The former Chinese medicine warehouse Ren i Tang (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-250 8383; www.renitang.com; 82A Lebuh Penang; r incl breakfast RM220-330; aW) has been carefully restored into a boutique hotel where antique charm resounds from every creaking floorboard. Each of its 19 differently sized rooms carries reminders of the building’s former life; we like the corner ‘Tub Room’ equipped with a wooden soaking tub and the ‘Loft Rooms’, former storage attics with sloping ceilings.
4Sleeping
Ryokan MuntriHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-250 0287; www.ryokanmuntri.com; 62 Jln Muntri; dm/r incl breakfast from RM39/158; aiW)
This flashpacker hostel boasts a minimalist feel – though not an especially Japanese one, despite the name. The dorms, ranging from four to six beds (including women-only rooms), are awash in muted greys, and each bed has its own USB and plug socket. There are bean-bag-strewn chill zones, a TV room and reading spaces, plus a colourful, convivial bar.
80’s GuesthouseHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-263 8806; www.the80sguesthouse.com; 46 Love Lane; incl breakfast dm RM35, r RM80-95; aiW)
With 1950s film posters and old radios, the nostalgic theme extends much further back than the ‘80s, but it’d be rude to quibble when the dorms and private rooms are spotless and common areas pleasantly attired with greenery and bookshelves. Single-sex four-bed and mixed six-bed dorms all share bathrooms, as do the minimalist private rooms. Lockers and towels included.
5Eating
You’ll soon realise why locals are so passionate about the food here. The diversity of George Town’s food scene is breathtaking: Chinese dim sum, Indian banana-leaf meals, and Malaysian curries, through to sourdough bakeries and paleo (grain-free) cakes. Whether you choose to dine at hawker stalls or the finest white-tablecloth restaurants, you’re sure to find quality food.
Wai Kei CafeCHINESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Lebuh Chulia; mains from RM7; h11am-2pm & 6-9pm)
This gem sits in the middle of the greatest concentration of travellers in George Town, yet is somehow almost exclusively patronised (in enthusiastic numbers) by locals. Come early for char siew (barbecued pork) and siew yoke (pork belly), considered among the best in town.
HameediyahMALAYSIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-261 1095; 164 Lebuh Campbell; mains RM5.50-25; h10am-10pm)
Dating back to 1907 and allegedly the oldest nasi kandar (Indian-influenced curries served over rice) place in Penang, a renovation belies Hameediyah’s many years. Brave long lines and a rather dreary dining room for rich, meaty curries or murtabak – a roti prata (flaky, flat bread) stuffed with minced mutton, chicken or vegetables, egg and spices.
Tho Yuen RestaurantCHINESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 92 Lebuh Campbell; dim sum RM1.60-8, mains from RM4.50; h6am-3pm Wed-Mon)
Packed with newspaper-reading loners and chattering locals all morning long, it’s best to arrive early for Tho Yuen’s widest array of breakfast dim sum. Mid-morning, plump pork bao and shrimp dumplings give way to chicken rice and hor fun (vermicelli with beef and bean sprouts). Servers speak minimal English but do their best to explain the contents of dim sum carts.
Sri Ananda BahwanINDIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-264 4204; www.srianandabahwan.com.my; 53-55 Lebuh Penang; mains from RM3; h7am-11.30pm; av)
This busy and buzzy chain restaurant whips up filling masala dosa (lentil-and-rice pancake stuffed with spiced potato), lip-smacking tandoori chicken and countless vegetarian Indian dishes. There’s also a counter of glistening sweets, such as laddu (tiny cannonballs of syrup, coconut and gram flour), for takeaway nibbles.
Veloo VillasINDIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-262 4369; 22 Lebuh Penang; set meals RM5-13.50; h7am-10pm; v)
Service is amiable and unfussy at this cheap, cheerful banana-leaf restaurant. Rice is scooped onto your leaf, along with ladlefuls of dhal and tangy pickled veggies. Come between 11am and 4pm for hearty rice-based set meals, or outside of these hours for dosa (paper-thin rice-and-lentil crepes) and other made-to-order meals.
Yin’s Sourdough BakeryBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %011-2419 5118; www.yinssourdough.com; 11 Pesara Claimant; pastries from RM2.30, sandwiches from RM12.50; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; av)
Tired of rice? Weary of noodles? Head here for freshly baked, additive-free bread, alongside cranberry buns, cinnamon rolls and focaccia. Buy baked goods to go, or stick around for a sandwich, breakfasts or pizza.
HAWKER-STALL HEAVEN
Not eating at a hawker stall in George Town is like skipping the Louvre in Paris – unthinkable! Prices are cheap and most places serve beer.
Lorong Baru (New Lane) Hawker Stalls (MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Jln Macalister & Lg Baru; mains from RM3; h5-10.30pm Thu-Tue) Ask locals where their favourite hawker stalls are, and they’ll generally mention this night-time street extravaganza. Just about everything is available here: oyster omelette, otak otak (steamed fish curry), Chinese congee, grilled satay skewers… We especially enjoyed the char koay kak (wok-fried rice cakes, egg, preserved radish and bean sprouts) and a version of Hokkien mee (mixed noodles in a piquant prawn broth). Prepare to battle for a spot if you’re visiting at the weekend.
Pulau Tikus Hawker Centre (cnr Solok Moulmein & Jln Burma; h6am-2pm) Before yet another bland guesthouse breakfast gets you down, consider a visit to this busy morning market area. A cluster of cafes sell chee cheong fun (flat rice noodles drowned in soya sauce, bean paste and chilli), mee goreng (spicy fried noodles) and other dishes that have earned die-hard fans.
Joo Hooi Cafe (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 475 Jln Penang; mains RM3-5.50, desserts from RM2.50; h11am-5pm) The hawker-centre equivalent of one-stop shopping, this hectic place assembles all of Penang’s best dishes: laksa, rojak, char kway teow (broad noodles, clams and eggs fried in chilli and black-bean sauce) and cendol.
Kafe Kheng Pin (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 80 Jln Penang; mains from RM4; h7am-2pm Tue-Sun) The must-eats at this old-school-feeling hawker joint include a legendary lor bak (deep-fried meat rolls dipped in sauce), rice porridges and an exquisite Hainanese chicken rice (steamed chicken with broth and rice).
Gurney Drive Hawker Stalls (Persiaran Gurney; mains from RM4; h5pm-midnight) One of Penang’s most famous hawker complexes sits amid modern high-rise buildings bordered by the sea. Tourists rush in for both Muslim and Chinese-Malay dishes including laksa, rojak (a mixed vegetable dish with a thick shrimp-based sauce) and crushed-ice dessert cendol, though the harried atmosphere and crowds prompt many locals to give it a wide berth.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oGravityBAR
(%04-219 0000; www.ghotelkelawai.com.my/dining-gravity.html; G Hotel Kelawei, 2 Persiaran Maktab; h5pm-1am)
Yes, it’s a hotel pool bar. But the breezy rooftop location and spectacular views, both out to sea and across to Penang Hill, make Gravity one of the island’s top sundowner destinations. Time a visit for the 5pm to 7pm happy hour, or enjoy free-flow house wines (RM75 per hour).
oMish MashCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %017-536 5128; www.mishmashpg.com; 24 Jln Muntri; h5pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
Mixology magic takes place between the whisky- and wine-bottle-lined walls of Mish Mash. Japanese flavours come to the fore in cocktails like the ‘Pandan Paloma’, with tequila and pandan sugar. We also appreciated well-blended mocktails like the pear and rosemary smash.
Micke’s PlaceBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012-493 8279; www.facebook.com/mickesplacelovelane; 94 Love Lane; hnoon-3am Sat-Thu, from 2pm Fri)
Graffitied walls, shisha and free-flowing booze: this classic formula has allowed Micke’s Place to remain one of the most popular backpacker bars in George Town. Sure, Micke’s lacks panache, but its crowd of travellers makes for easy mingling, so it’s a good place to start your night.
8Information
Branches of major banks are on Lebuh Pantai and Lebuh Downing, near the main post office. Most have 24-hour ATMs. At the northwestern end of Lebuh Chulia there are a few money changers open longer hours than banks and with more competitive rates.
Nearly all lodging options offer wi-fi, and some have a computer terminal for guest use. Wi-fi is also widely available at restaurants, cafes and in shopping malls.
Hospital Pulau Pinang (%04-222 5333; http://jknpenang.moh.gov.my; Jln Residensi) The island’s largest public hospital, with general health-care and emergency services.
Penang Global Tourism (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-264 3456; www.mypenang.gov.my; Whiteways Arcade, Lebuh Pantai; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, to 1pm Sun) The visitors centre of the state tourism agency is the best all-round place to go for maps, brochures and local information.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Penang International Airport (%04-252 0252; www.penangairport.com; 11900 Bayan Lepas; 
g401), 18km south of George Town, is served by plenty of international and domestic flights.
BOAT
Langkawi Ferry Service (LFS; %04-264 2088, 016-419 5008; www.langkawi-ferry.com; PPC Bldg, Pesara King Edward; adult/child 1-way RM70/51.30; h7am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun) boats leave for Langkawi, the resort island in Kedah, at 8.30am and 2pm and return from Langkawi at 10.30am and 3pm. The journey each way takes between 1¾ and 2½ hours. Book a few days in advance to ensure a seat.
BUS
Most interstate and international buses to George Town arrive and depart from Sungai Nibong Bus Station (%04-659 2099; www.rapidpg.com.my; Jln Sultan Azlan Shah, Kampung Dua Bukit; g401, 303), just to the south of Penang Bridge. A taxi from Sungai Nibong to George Town costs around RM25.
Before heading out to Sungai Nibong, check whether you can board your long-distance bus at KOMTAR Bus Station (www.rapidpg.com.my; Jln Ria). Note that transport to Thailand (except to Hat Yai) is via minivan. Transport can also be arranged to Ko Samui and Ko Phi Phi via a transfer in Surat Thani and Hat Yai respectively.
Buses around Penang island are run by the government-owned Rapid Penang (%bus times 04-238 1313; www.rapidpg.com.my). Fares range from RM1.40 to RM4. Most routes originate at Weld Quay Bus Terminal (www.rapidpg.com.my; 19-24 Pengkalan Weld) and most also stop at KOMTAR.
BUSES FROM PENANG
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hat Yai (Thailand) | 35 | 3 | 4 daily, 5am-5.30pm |
| Ipoh | 16-25 | 2½ | 7 daily, 7am-9pm |
| Johor Bahru | 65-90 | 9 | 8 daily, 8am-11.30pm |
| Kota Bharu | 41 | 7 | 2 daily |
| Kuala Lumpur | 36-50 | 5 | every 30min, 7am-midnight |
| Kuala Terengganu | 51 | 8 | 5 daily |
| Melaka | 50 | 7 | 2 daily |
| Singapore | 65-100 | 10 | 3, morning & evening only |
| Tanah Rata (for Cameron Highlands) | 32-40 | 5 | 5 daily |
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Bus 401 runs to and from the airport (RM4) every half hour between 6am and 11pm daily, and stops at KOMTAR Bus Station and Weld Quay Bus Terminal, taking at least an hour. The fixed taxi fare to central George Town is RM44.70; expect the journey to take around 30 minutes depending on traffic.
BICYCLE
There are several places near the intersection of Gat Lebuh Armenian and Lebuh Victoria offering one-day rental of city bikes for around RM10. You can also find bicycles for rent at many places along Lebuh Chulia.
BUS
Rapid Penang runs public transport buses around the state. Fares range from RM1.40 to RM4. Most routes originate at Weld Quay Bus Terminal and most also stop at KOMTAR and along Jln Chulia as well.
TAXI
Penang’s taxis all have meters, which most drivers refuse to use, so negotiate the fare before you set off. Typical fares to places just outside the city centre start at around RM15. Taxis can be found on Jln Penang, near Cititel Hotel, at the Weld Quay Bus Terminal and near KOMTAR Bus Station. Ride-sharing apps including Grab are used in George Town.
TRISHAW
Bicycle rickshaws are a fun, if touristy, way to negotiate George Town’s backstreets and cost between RM20 and RM40 per hour depending on your negotiating skills. As with taxis, it’s important to agree on the fare before departure.
SPLURGE
You can’t really say you’ve been to George Town unless you’ve stepped inside China House (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-263 7299; www.chinahouse.com.my; 153 & 155 Lebuh Pantai; h9am-midnight). This block-wide amalgamation of shophouses is home to a variety of dining, drinking and shopping options. It all starts splendidly with the buzzy cafe/bakery, Kopi C (MAP GOOGLE MAP; desserts from RM10; h9am-midnight; W) serving scrumptious bakes, serious coffee and great light meals, and just gets better from there.
Return in the evening to experience the elegant yet relaxed restaurant BTB (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-262 7299; www.chinahouse.com.my; 155 Lebuh Pantai; mains RM42-84; h6.30-10.30pm; av), the cocktail and wine bar Vine & Single (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-263 7299; h5pm-midnight) and the live-music venue Canteen (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 183B Lebuh Victoria; h9am-11pm). And don’t forget about the boutique shop and art gallery upstairs!
Greater Penang
1Sights
oPenang National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(Taman Negara Pulau Pinang; %04-881 3500; h8am-5pm; p; g101) F
The old saying about good things in small packages suits dainty Penang National Park well. At 2300 hectares it’s Malaysia’s smallest national park, but you can fill a day with activities as diverse as jungle walks, fishing, and sunbathing on quiet, golden-sand beaches. Private guides and boat operators amass near the entrance and parking lot. A one-way trip should cost RM50 from Teluk Duyung (Monkey Beach), RM90 from Pantai Kerachut and RM100 from Teluk Kampi. Sign in at the park entrance.
oTropical Spice GardenGARDENS
(%04-881 1797; www.tropicalspicegarden.com; Jl Teluk Bahang; adult/child RM29/17, incl tour RM45/25; h9am-6pm; g101) 
S
This beautifully landscaped oasis of tropical flora, more than 500 species in all, unfurls across 500 fragrant acres. Armed with an audioguide, you can wander independently among lily ponds and terraced gardens, learning about local spices and medicinal plants. Alternatively, join one of four daily guided tours at 9am, 11.30am, 1.30pm and 3.30pm, or book a kid-friendly educational tour. Take bus 101 from George Town (RM4) and inform the driver that you want to get off here. Last admission 5.15pm.
The garden offers well-regarded cooking courses (%04-881 1797; http://tsgcookingschool.com; adult/child RM250/130; hlessons 9am-1pm Tue-Sun) and its restaurant (%04-881 3493; www.treemonkey.com.my; mains RM18-80-58.80; h9am-10.30pm; W), though pricey, is worth a visit for its relaxing terrace area and refreshing herb-infused lemonades. There’s also a good shop, and just across the road from the gardens is a beautiful white-sand beach.
Kek Lok Si TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Temple of Supreme Bliss; http://kekloksitemple.com; Jln Balik Pulau, Air Itam; h8am-6.30pm; g204) F
Staggered on hillside terraces overlooking Air Itam, around 8km from the centre of George Town, Malaysia’s largest Buddhist temple is a visual delight. Built between 1890 and 1905, Kek Lok Si is the cornerstone of the Malay-Chinese community, which provided the funding for its two-decade-long construction (and ongoing additions). Its key features are the seven-tier Ban Po Thar (Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda; %04-828 3317; http://kekloksitemple.com; Kek Lok Si Temple, Air Itam; RM2; h8am-6pm; g204) pagoda and an awesome 36.5m-high bronze statue of Kuan Yin, goddess of mercy.
To reach the temple’s main entrance, you’ll have to run the gauntlet of souvenir stalls on the uphill path. You’ll also pass a pond packed with turtles, and the complex’s vegetarian restaurant (%04-828 8142; Air Itam; mains RM10; h9am-6pm; v; g204). There are a lot of stairs involved, but the final stretch up to the statue of Kuan Yin is covered by a funicular (one-way/return RM8/16; h8.30am-5.30pm).
GETTING TO/FROM BUTTERWORTH
Butterworth, the city on the mainland part of Penang, is home to Penang’s main train station and is the departure point for ferries to Penang Island. Unless you’re taking the train or your bus has pulled into Butterworth’s busy bus station from elsewhere, you’ll probably not need to spend any time here.
The cheapest way to get to George Town is via the ferry (foot passenger adult/child/bicycle/motorbike/car RM1.20/0.60/1.40/2/7.70; h5.20am-12.40am); the Pangkalan Sultan Abdul Halim Ferry Terminal is linked by walkway to Butterworth’s bus and train stations. Ferries take passengers and cars every 20 to 30 minutes from 5.20am to 10pm, and then roughly every hour until the last ferry at 12.40am. The journey takes 10 minutes and fares are charged only for the journey from Butterworth to Penang; returning to the mainland is free.
Taxis to/from Butterworth (approximately RM50) cross the 13km Penang Bridge. There’s a RM7 toll payable at the toll plaza on the mainland, but no charge to return.
At least five daily trains connect Butterworth Train Station (%04-323 7962; www.ktmb.com.my) with Kuala Lumpur (RM59, 3½ to four hours).
To reach Thailand, take a Komuter Train (RM11.40, 1¾ hours, 14 daily) to the border at Padang Besar. There you can connect to the International Express to Hat Yai, or take a Shuttle Train across the border.
Check www.ktmb.com.my and www.train36.com for the latest info on fares and schedules.
Alor Setar
%04 / Pop 405,523
Most travellers use the capital of Kedah, also known as Alor Star, as a jumping-off point to Langkawi or southern Malaysia. But it’s worth lingering long enough to admire its architectural treasures. Alor Setar is generally a welcoming place for foreign visitors, though it’s rooted in a conservative mindset that references a fairly strict interpretation of Islam and carries a reverence for the local monarchy.
4Sleeping & Eating
Comfort MotelHOTEL$
(%04-734 4866; 2C Jln Kampung Perak; r incl breakfast RM45; pa)
This is a good-value, Chinese-style budget hotel, located in a renovated wooden house across from Masjid Zahir (Jln Sultan Muhammad Jiwa; h7am-7pm) F. The rooms are tidy and come equipped with TV and air-con, but are otherwise bare, and have shared bathrooms.
Nasi Lemak OngMALAYSIAN$
(%012-498 3660; www.facebook.com/NasiLemakOngAlorSetar; 24, ground fl, Jln Putra; mains RM5-12; h10.30am-3.30pm Thu-Tue; av)
This efficient, family-run canteen is the most popular nasi lemak place in Alor Setar. At the counter, select your rice and choice of accompaniments from the wide array of dishes laid out, including rich, spicy sambal, dried anchovies, curried prawns or mutton, and various vegetable dishes. Worth the queue.
8Getting There & Away
The main bus terminal, Shahab Perdana (Lebuhraya Bahiyah), is 4km north of the town centre. A local bus links Shahab Perdana and Kuala Kedah (RM3, one hour, frequent departures from 7am to 10pm), passing through the city centre on the way. There is a bus stop (Jln Langgar) next to the taxi stand on Jln Tunku Ibrahim.
The bus to Shahab Perdana from the city centre costs RM1.30 and a taxi there costs around RM10.
The train station (www.ktmb.com.my; Jln Stesyen) is 850m southeast of the town centre. There is one daily northbound train to Hat Yai (RM9 to RM48, 3½ hours) in Thailand and one to Bangkok (about RM110, 18½ hours). Southbound trains head to Tasik Gelugor for Penang (RM18 to RM22, one hour, two daily) and Kuala Lumpur (RM70 to RM93, five hours, seven daily).
GETTING TO THAILAND
Alor Setar to Hat Yai
Getting to the border The border at Bukit Kayu Hitam, 48km north of Alor Setar, is the main road crossing between Malaysia and Thailand. There are no taxis or local buses at this border; the only practical way to cross here is on a through bus from points elsewhere in Malaysia (eg Alor Setar or KL).
At the border The Malaysian border post is open every day from 6am to midnight. All passengers must disembark to clear customs and immigration (both Thai and Malaysian) before reboarding.
Moving on The lack of local transport means that you’ll most likely pass this border on a bus already bound for Hat Yai.
Kangar to Hat Yai
Getting to the border There are four buses a day from Kangar to Padang Besar (RM4.20), stopping at a bus stop by a roundabout about 500m from the border.
At the border The Malaysian border post is open every day from 6am to 10pm. Few people walk the more-than-2km of no-man’s land between the Thai and Malaysian sides of the border. Motorcyclists shuttle pedestrian travellers back and forth for less than RM5 each way. For train passengers, customs and immigration are dealt with at Padang Besar station.
Moving on Once in Thailand there are frequent buses to Hat Yai, 60km away (THB44). There are trains at 10.30am and 6.40pm connecting Padang Besar and Hat Yai (RM6 to RM13, 50 minutes).
Pulau Langkawi
%04 / Pop 94,777
Dominating an archipelago of more than 100 islands and islets, Pulau Langkawi is synonymous with sandy shores, jungle-cloaked valleys and bargain shopping. The island’s official name is ‘the jewel of Kedah’, and its rugged beauty is evident in waterfalls, hot springs and forest parks – all excellent reasons to peel yourself off your beach towel.
1Sights
Move on briskly from Kuah, the major town and the arrival point for ferries, to Pantai Cenang (cha-nang). This gorgeous 2km-long strip of sand on Langkawi’s west coast has the biggest concentration of hotels and tourist facilities. The water is good for swimming, but jellyfish are common. If you’re looking for somewhere a bit quieter try adjacent Pantai Tengah.
In Pantai Kok, northwest of Pantai Cenang, it’s also worth riding the Panorama Langkawi (%04-959 4225; www.panoramalangkawi.com; Oriental Village, Burau Bay; basic package of SkyCab & 3D Art Museum adult/child RM55/40; h9.30am-7pm) cable car to the top of Gunung Machinchang to enjoy spectacular views.
4Sleeping
During school holidays and peak tourist season (approximately November to February), advance bookings are generally necessary for all budgets. At other times, supply outstrips demand and prices are negotiable.
4Pantai Cenang
There are dozens of backpacker places along the small roads leading away from the beach.
Langkawi DormitorioHOSTEL$
(%017-236 2587; www.facebook.com/lgkdormitorio; 1556 Jln Pantai Cenang, Pantai Cenang; dm RM50, r RM120-500; aW)
Feeling a little weary of party hostels? Dormitorio offers a more sedate, grown-up experience with its clean, pastel-hued dorm rooms, each with its own bathroom. Rooms feature solid, capsule-style bunk beds.
Rainbow LodgeHOSTEL, GUESTHOUSE$
(%04-955 8103; www.rainbowlangkawi.com; Pantai Cenang; dm RM18-22, r RM40-120; aiW)
Set 300m back from Pantai Cenang, this cheerfully painted place has non-bunk dorm beds with partitions and curtains, allowing better repose than the average hostel. Cheaper private rooms have fans, the pricier ones have air-con and fridges.
oTubotelHOSTEL$$
(%014-240 7022; www.tubotel.com; Kuala Cenang; incl breakfast dm RM45-50, r RM128-188; paW)
At thrillingly distinctive Tubotel, rooms are individual concrete pipes whose snug interiors house surprisingly comfy beds (bathrooms are in a separate block). Occupying a slim peninsula north of Pantai Cenang, Tubotel rooms are framed by overhanging greenery. A deck with sun loungers overlooks glittering sea.
4Pantai Tengah
Pantai Tengah is quieter and more relaxed than Pantai Cenang, with a main drag bursting with upscale restaurants and bars.
Zackry Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(zackryghouse@gmail.com; Lot 735, Jln Teluk Baru, Pantai Tengah; dm RM35, r RM70-110; aiW)
This ramshackle, family-run guesthouse has a sociable atmosphere. Rooms are basic, yet clean and cosy, and communal areas include a fridge, vending machines and places to lounge. Note that there’s a two-night minimum, no phone bookings, and only about half of the rooms have an attached bathroom.
5Eating
The roving night market (pasar malam) is held at various points across the island and is Pulau Langkawi’s stand-out (and best value) food experience. Restaurants can be found scattered along the main roads in Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah. Kuah is home to several very good Chinese and Indian restaurants.
Wonderland Food StoreCHINESE$
(Lot 179-181, Pusat Perniagaan Kelana Mas, Kuah; mains from RM10; h6-11pm Sat-Thu)
Of the string of Chinese-style seafood restaurants in Kuah, Wonderland has been around longer than most and gets the best reviews. It’s an informal, open-air place where the food (steamed fish, giant prawns, fried rice) is cheap and tasty.
MelayuMALAYSIAN$$
(%04-955 4075; Jln Teluk Baru, Pantai Tengah; mains RM10-20; h3-10.30pm; a)
The comfortable dining room, pleasant outdoor seating area and efficient service here belie the reasonable prices. A good place to go for authentic Malaysian food in the evening, since most of the island’s local restaurants are lunchtime buffets.
Alcohol isn’t served, but you can bring your own for no charge.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Langkawi’s duty-free status makes it one of the cheapest places to buy booze in Malaysia, and alcohol at many restaurants and hotels is half the mainland price.
Smiling BuffaloCAFE
(www.facebook.com/Smilingbuffalocafe; Jln Pantai Cenang, Pantai Cenang; h8am-6pm)
Superb coffee and freshly pressed juices are served in shady grounds at this idyllic, friendly cafe.
CliffBAR
(%04-953 3228; www.theclifflangkawi.com; Jln Pantai Cenang, Pantai Cenang; hnoon-11pm)
Perched on a wave-lashed rocky outcrop between Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah, the Cliff is an exhilarating spot for a sundowner. Expect a full bar, a good wine selection, and cocktails a class above those mixed on the beach below (from RM18).
Yellow CaféBAR
(www.facebook.com/yellowbeach.cafe; Pantai Cenang; hnoon-1am Sat & Sun, from 3pm Mon, Wed-Fri; W)
The best bar on Pantai Cenang has a mellow soundtrack, shaded seating and swinging yellow hammocks (don’t spill your margarita). Come between 4pm and 6pm when beers are buy one, get one free. Cocktails from RM20.
FERRY WARNING
During the wet season, from July to September, you may want to shelve any notions of taking the ferry to Langkawi, particularly from Penang. At this time of year the seas are typically very rough and the ferry ride can be a terrifying and quite literally vomit-inducing experience. Consider yourself warned.
8Information
The only banks are at Kuah and Telaga Harbour Park, but there are ATMs at the airport, the jetty, at Cenang Mall (Jln Pantai Cenang) and at Underwater World (Jln Pantai Cenang). There are a couple of money changers at Pantai Cenang.
Tourism Malaysia (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %04-966 7789; www.malaysia.travel; Jln Persiaran Putra, Kuah; h9am-5pm) This office is on Jln Persiaran Putra, next to the mosque in Kuah town, and offers comprehensive information on the whole island. There are two other offices, one located opposite the ferry terminal entrance at Kuah jetty, and one in the airport arrivals hall (open until 10pm).
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Langkawi International Airport (%04-955 1311; www.langkawiairport.com) is located in the west of the island near Padang Matsirat. It’s well stocked with ATMs, currency-exchange booths, car-rental agencies, travel agencies, and a Tourism Malaysia office. A half-dozen airlines offer flights from Langkawi.
BOAT
All passenger ferries operate from the busy terminal at Kuah Jetty (Kuah). Several ferry providers, including Langkawi Ferry Service (LFS; %04-966 9439; www.langkawi-ferry.com; Kuah Jetty, Kuah), have merged to operate a shared ferry service to the destinations below, with the exception of Ko Lipe, which is operated by Tropical Charters (%012-316 5466; www.tropicalcharters.com.my; Pantai Tengah; cruises from adult/child RM245/145), from October to June only.
| DESTINATION | PRICE (RM, ADULT/CHILD) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| George Town | 60/45 | 2¾ |
| Ko Lipe (Thailand) | 245/145 | 1½ |
| Kuala Kedah | 23/17 | 1¾ |
| Kuala Perlis | 18/13 | 1¼ |
| Satun (Thailand) | 35/28 | 1¼ |
8Getting Around
A good option is to rent your own vehicle: rates are around RM70 to RM100 per day for a car, RM35 per day for a motorcycle. Otherwise, taxis are the main way of getting around. Fixed taxi fares from the airport include Kuah jetty (RM30), Pantai Cenang or Pantai Kok (RM20), Tanjung Rhu (RM30) and Teluk Datai (RM60). Buy a coupon at the desk before leaving the airport terminal and use it to pay the driver. The taxi fare from Kuah jetty to Pantai Cenang is RM30. It’s also possible to hire a taxi for four hours for RM120.
GETTING TO THAILAND: PULAU LANGAKAWI TO SATUN & KO LIPE
Getting to the border There are three daily ferries from Kuah on Pulau Langkawi to Satun (one way RM30, 1¼ hours) on the Thai mainland. Tropical Charters also runs two ferries daily between Langkawi and Ko Lipe in Thailand.
At the border You’ll get stamped out of Malaysia at immigration at the ferry terminal then get stamped into Thailand when you arrive at the ferry terminal in Satun. Most visitors can get a Thai visa for 15 days or more on arrival.
Moving on From Satun there are more bus and boat connections. From Ko Lipe there are onward services available to as far as Ko Lanta.
For information on making the crossing in reverse see here.