Laos
Vientiane
Northern Laos
Vang Vieng
Luang Prabang
Nong Khiaw
Muang Ngoi Neua
Phonsavan
Plain of Jars
Sam Neua
Vieng Xai
Northwestern Laos
Udomxai
Luang Namtha
Huay Xai
Central & Southern Laos
Tham Kong Lor & Around
Tha Khaek
Savannakhet
Pakse
Champasak
Wat Phu World Heritage Area
Si Phan Don
Don Khong
Don Det & Don Khon
Understand Laos
Survival Guide
Laos
Pop 6.9 million
Why Go?
A land of the lotus eaters amid the bloated development of its neighbours, Laos brings together the best of Southeast Asia in one bite-sized destination. It’s no accident that Laos appears as a favourite in many Southeast Asian odysseys, for this landlocked country lays claim to incredibly genuine people and the chance for your inner adventurer to let rip. The ‘Land of a Million Elephants’ oozes magic from the moment you spot a Hmong tribeswoman looming through the mist; trek through a glimmering rice paddy; or hear the dawn call of the endangered gibbon. But it’s also a place to pamper yourself in a spa like a French colonial, or chill under a wood-blade fan in a delicious Gallic restaurant. The country offers green tourism with excellent forest treks and tribal homestays operated by eco-responsible outfits. Be it flying along forest ziplines, exploring creepy subterranean river caves or tackling the jungle on motocross adventures, Laos will burn itself into your memory.
When to Go
- Nov–Feb A great time to visit, with the magical Bun Pha That Luang (Full Moon Festival) in November.
- Mar–May Temperatures and humidity levels climbs, but hotel prices fall.
- Jun–Nov The monsoon brings fresh air and river festivals like Bun Awk Phansa and Bun Nam.
Top Laos Phrases
Hello sábąi-dĕe
Goodbye sábąi-dĕe
Yes/No maan/bor
Thank you kòrp jąi
Do you speak English? jôw Ъàhk páh-săh ąng·kít dâi bor
Entering the Country
There are more than a dozen border crossings into Laos from Cambodia, China, Thailand and Vietnam. Frequent flights also connect Laos with neighbouring countries.
REGIONS AT A GLANCE
For many short-stay visitors, Luang Prabang is their Laos experience. And a mighty impressive one it is too, thanks to its deserved World Heritage status. Laos’ other main city, its capital Vientiane, may be bucolic for an Asian city, but it hits home on the charm stakes, with attractive cafes, stylish restaurants and lively little bars.
Beyond lies northern Laos, a landscape of towering mountains and dense forests that is home to extensive national parks, rare wildlife and some of the most colourful minorities in the region.
The middle of the country is one of the least travelled regions. Some of the most dramatic cave systems in Asia are found here, together with spectacular scenery and crumbling colonial-era towns. Head south to live life in the slow lane. The Mekong islands of Si Phan Don suck people in for longer than expected, and there is a real buzz on the Bolaven Plateau – not just from the coffee.
Essential Outdoor Activities
National Protected Areas Trek the dense forests of 20 national protected areas spread across Laos.
Vang Vieng Go ape with the latest craze of ziplines.
The Loop This two-day adventure by motorbike through jungle and karst, frontier town and dam country, gets under Laos’ skin.
Tha Khaek One of the most beautiful places in the country to climb limestone karsts.
Gibbon Experience Zipline through the jungle canopy with the Gibbon Experience.
Resources
Hobo Maps (http://hobomaps.com) Up-to-date maps and transportation details, mostly regarding northern Laos.
Lao National Tourism Administration (www.tourismlaos.org) Mostly up-to-date travel information from the government.
RFA (Radio Free Asia; www.rfa.org/english/news/laos) Unbiased, censorship-free news on Laos from Asia-based journalists.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/laos) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.
AT A GLANCE
Currency Lao kip (K)
Money ATMs in major centres. Credit cards accepted in Luang Prabang and Vientiane.
Visas On arrival (valid for 30 days; US$30 to US$42 depending which passport you hold).
Mobile phones Prepaid SIMs available for as little as 10,000K. Decent connections.
Language Lao
Exchange Rates
| Australia | A$1 | 6512K |
| Canada | C$1 | 6439K |
| Euro zone | €1 | 9750K |
| Japan | ¥100 | 7554K |
| New Zealand | NZ$1 | 5807K |
| Thailand | 10B | 2484K |
| UK | UK£1 | 10665K |
| US | US$1 | 8250K |
| Vietnam | 10,000d | 3629K |
For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.
Daily Costs
Budget hotel room US$5-10
Local meal US$2-4
Beer US$1
Museum entrance US$2
Fast Facts
Area 236,000 sq km
Capital Vientiane
Emergency Police 191
Laos Highlights
1 Luang Prabang Experiencing the ancient city of temples that has it all: royal history, Indochinese chic, colourful monks, waterfalls, stunning river views and world class French cuisine.
2 Tham Kong Lor Taking a boat ride through this exhilaratingly spooky 7.5km cave, home to fist-sized spiders and stalactite woods.
3 Gibbon Experience Trekking and zipping across the forest by day at the Gibbon Experience in Huay Xai and sleeping in cosy treehouses at night.
4 Nam Ha National Protected Area Trekking through some of the wildest, densest jungle in the country, home to a rich variety of ethnic tribes.
5 Si Phan Don Relaxing at Four Thousand Islands, hammock capital of Laos; a steamy traveller’s idyll where the Mekong turns turquoise.
6 Vieng Xai Exploring the war-shelter cave complexes, set in beautiful gardens backed by fabulous karst scenery.
7 Plain of Jars Touring the mysterious plain of jars near Phonsavan.
Vientiane
%021 / Pop 997,000
From its sleepy tuk-tuk drivers to its cafe society and affordable spas, this former French trading post is languid to say the least. Eminently walkable, the historic old quarter of Vientiane (ວຽງຈັນ) beguiles with glittering temples, lunging naga (river serpent) statues, wandering Buddhist monks, and boulevards lined with frangipani and tamarind. Meanwhile, with most of its old French villas now stylishly reincarnated into restaurants and small hotels, Vientiane is achieving an unprecedented level of panache with a distinctly Gallic flavour. For the well-heeled traveller and backpacker the city acquits itself equally well, be it with low-cost digs and street markets, or upscale boutique accommodation and gastronomic eateries.
History
Through 10 centuries of history Vientiane was variously controlled, ravaged and looted by the Vietnamese, Burmese, Siamese and Khmer. When Laos became a French protectorate at the end of the 19th century, Vientiane was renamed as the capital, rebuilt and became one of the classic Indochinese cities, along with Phnom Penh and Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). By the early 1960s and the onset of the war in Vietnam, the city had taken on a vastly different face. In 2009 the city hosted the Southeast Asian Games, a major illustration of the country’s new profile. In 2015 China’s Kunming to Vientiane express route started in earnest.
1Sights
oPha That LuangBUDDHIST STUPA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; ພະທາດຫລວງ, Great Sacred Reliquary, Great Stupa; Th 23 Singha; 10,000K, rental of long skirt to enter temple 5000K; 
h8am-5pm)
Svelte and golden Pha That Luang is the most important national monument in Laos; a symbol of Buddhist religion and Lao sovereignty. Legend has it that Ashokan missionaries from India erected a tâht (stupa) here to enclose a piece of Buddha’s breastbone as early as the 3rd century BC. Pha That Luang is about 4km northeast of the city centre.
oWat Si SaketBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; ວັດສີສະເກດ; cnr Th Lan Xang & Th Setthathirath; 10,000K; h8am-5pm, closed public holidays)
Built between 1819 and 1824 by Chao Anou, Wat Si Saket is believed to be Vientiane’s oldest surviving wat. And it is starting to show, as this beautiful temple is in need of a facelift. Along the western side of the cloister is a pile of buddhas that were damaged during the 1828 Lao Rebellion.
COPE Visitor CentreCULTURAL CENTRE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; ສູນຟື້ນຟູຄົນພິການແຫ່ງຊາດ; Cooperative Orthotic & Prosthetic Enterprise; %021-241972; www.copelaos.org; Th Khu Vieng; donations welcome; h9am-6pm)
F
COPE is the main source of artificial limbs, walking aids and wheelchairs in Laos. Its excellent Visitor Centre, part of the organisation’s National Rehabilitation Centre, offers myriad interesting and informative multimedia exhibits about prosthetics and the unexploded ordnance (UXO) that sadly make them necessary.
Xieng KhuanMUSEUM
(ຊຽງຂວັນ, Suan Phut, Buddha Park; 5000K, camera 3000K, motorbike parking 5000K; h8am-5pm; 
g14)
Located 25km southeast of central Vientiane, eccentric Xieng Khuan, aka Buddha Park, thrills with other-worldly Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, and was designed and built in 1958 by Luang Pu, a yogi-priest-shaman who merged Hindu and Buddhist philosophy, mythology and iconography into a cryptic whole. Bus 14 (6000K, one hour, 24km) leaves Talat Sao Bus Station every 20 minutes for Xieng Khuan. Alternatively, charter a tuk-tuk (200,000K return).
Central Vientiane
1Top Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
PatuxaiMONUMENT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; ປະຕູໄຊ, Victory Gate; Th Lan Xang; 3000K; h8am-5pm)
Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe replica is a slightly incongruous sight, dominating the commercial district around Th Lan Xang. Officially called ‘Victory Gate’ and commemorating the Lao who died in prerevolutionary wars, it was built in the 1960s with cement donated by the USA intended for the construction of a new airport. Climb to the summit for panoramic views over Vientiane.
Wat Si MuangBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; ວັດສີເມືອງ; cnr Th Setthathirath, Th Samsènethai & Th Tha Deua; h6am-7pm, special days to 10pm)F
The most frequently used grounds in Vientiane are those of Wat Si Muang, the site of the lák méuang (city pillar), which is considered the home of the guardian spirit of Vientiane. The large sǐm (ordination hall; destroyed in 1828 and rebuilt in 1915) was constructed around the lák méuang, and consists of two halls.
Lao Textile MuseumMUSEUM
(ພິພິດທະພັນຜ້າໄໝບູຮານລາວ; %021-562454; http://laotextilemuseum2003.weebly.com; Ban Nongthatai; 30,000K; h9am-4pm)
What began as a private museum, established by the family that runs Kanchana Boutique (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-213467; 140 Th Samsenethai; h8am-9pm), has subsequently become something of a Lao cultural centre. The emphasis at this leafy traditional Lao compound is on textiles. There is a wooden house filled with looms and antique Lao textiles representing several ethnic groups, plus the museum offers courses in natural dyeing (US$20 to US$30).
DOS & DON’TS IN LAOS
AAlways ask permission before taking photos.
ADon’t prop your feet on chairs or tables while sitting.
ARefrain from touching people on the head, or having any physical contact with monks.
ARemove your shoes before entering homes or temple buildings.
ADon’t hold hands or kiss in a Buddhist temple.
2Activities
Vientiane Yoga StudioYOGA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-5698 4563; www.vientianeyogastudio.com; Th Nerhu; 80min class 80,000K; h5am-7pm)
Hatha, vinyasa and yin yoga, as well as warrior yoga (for men) and prenatal yoga (for women), are available at this studio, located in a quiet garden down a secluded alleyway (look for signs across from Fuji Japanese Restaurant 2). Instructors Nanci and Toshi have more than 10 years’ experience. Check the website for the latest schedule.
Sinouk Coffee PavilionCOFFEE
(%030-2000654; www.sinouk-cafe.com; Km 9, Th Tha Deua; h8.30am-5pm)
Located at the headquarters of Sinouk Coffee, one of Laos’ best-known coffee producers, this is an education in the bean. Learn more about the art of coffee production at the coffee gallery and mini-museum paying homage to caffeine, and in roasting and cupping rooms, where you might be lucky enough to see the production process underway.
Lao Bowling CentreBOWLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-218661; Th Khounboulom; per game with shoe hire 13,000K; h9am-2am)
Expect bright lights, Beerlao and boisterous bowlers here. While the equipment is in bad shape, it’s still a fun place to come later in the evening for a Lao-style night out. It sometimes stays open into the wee hours. BYO socks.
C Courses
Houey Hong Vocational Training Centre for WomenWEAVING
(%021-560006; www.houeyhongvientiane.com; Ban Houey Hong; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)
You can learn how to dye textiles using natural pigments and then weave them on a traditional loom at this NGO centre, run by a Lao-Japanese woman. It was established north of Vientiane to train disadvantaged rural women in the dying art of natural dyeing and traditional silk-weaving practices.
Villa LaoCOOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.villalaos.com; off Th Nong Douang; half-day class per person US$25-30)
Villa Lao offers cooking courses at 9am and 1pm (by appointment) that involve a trip to the market, preparation of three dishes of your choice and sampling your creations. It’s a very peaceful setting for classes, like a slice of country life in the city.
TTours
oTuk Tuk SafariCULTURAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-54333089; www.tuktuksafari.com; adult/child under 12yr US$70/40; h8am-5pm)
This community-conscious tour company gets under the skin of Vientiane in a tuk-tuk. Tour guide Ere has several different ‘safaris’ and can spirit you away to a Lao market, a rice farm, a silversmith’s workshop or Vientiane’s premier weaving houses.
oLao Disabled Women’s Development CentreCULTURAL
(LDWDC; %021-812282; http://laodisabledwomen.com; 100 Th Tha Deua; tours 50,000-100,000K; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, weekends by appointment; g14) 
S F
Run by a collective of Lao disabled women, this centre challenges the prejudices that the disabled community in Laos sometimes faces. Concentrating on abilities, the centre offers training and education to empower disabled women. It is open to drop-in visitors for free, or you can sign up for a tour (50,000K) to learn about recycled-paper handicrafts and weaving.
Backstreet AcademyTOURS
(%020-58199216; www.backstreetacademy.com)
For some original local encounters, contact Backstreet Academy, a peer-to-peer travel website that specialises in connecting travellers to cultural experiences with local hosts. Choose from a muay Lao (kickboxing) class, a traditional dance lesson, a Lao cooking class in a private home, a clay art class, Zen meditation and a whole lot more.
zFestivals & Events
Bun NamSPORTS
(Bun Suang Héua; hOct)
A huge annual event at the end of pansăh (the Buddhist rains retreat) in October, during which boat races are held on the Mekong River. Rowing teams from all over the country, as well as from Thailand, China and Myanmar (Burma), compete; the river bank is lined with food stalls, temporary discos, carnival games and beer gardens for three days and nights.
Bun Pha That LuangCULTURAL
(That Luang Festival; hNov)
Pi MaiCULTURAL
(hApr)
Lao New Year is celebrated in mid-April with a mass water fight and tourists are considered fair game. Be warned, drunk driving and theft go through the roof at these times so remain vigilant!
DON’T MISS
There’s no better way to discover the real Laos than by trying a homestay. Beyond the cities, 80% of the population lives in rural villages and, with minimal impact on the community and the environment, you can experience an evening with them. Given Laos’ rich ethnicity and varied geography, no two homestays will be the same, but you can rely on a few commonalities: you’ll be woken by children and the local rooster, communally bathe and eat by the fire, and be guaranteed one of your most memorable nights in this country.
4Sleeping
Vientiane is bursting with a wide range of accommodation, from cheap backpacker digs to beautiful boutique hotels.
oSailomyen HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP; %021-214246; www.facebook.com/sailomyenhostel; Th Saylom; dm incl breakfast 80,000K; 
n
a
W)
Perhaps it’s the chic design, the luxurious rain showers or the trendy ground-floor cafe? Maybe it’s the friendly touches (such as personal lights and outlets in each bunk) or the Siberian air-con (which invites you to snuggle beneath your fluffy duvet and hide behind your privacy curtain)? Whatever the reason, Sailomyen is a hostel connoisseur’s dream come true.
Hive HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP; %020-98132074; www.facebook.com/hivelao; Th Setthathilath; dm incl breakfast 60,000-90,000K; aW)
This new hostel has a great central location and three exceptionally cold air-con dorms with curtained-off bunks, lockers and sparklingly clean toilets. There’s a funky little cafe on the ground floor where you’ll eat your (simple) breakfast.
Mixay Paradise GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-254223; laomixayparadise@yahoo.com; Th François Ngin; s/d with fan & shared bathroom 90,000/100,000K, r with air-con & bathroom 130,000-140,000K; naW)
Mixay Paradise has 50 rooms with pastel-coloured walls, some of which have balconies, bathrooms and air-con; spotless floors; a bright lobby cafe with lime-green walls; and a lift. One of the best, most hygienic budget options in the city. Safety deposit lockers cost 50,000K.
oLV City Riverine HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-214643; www.lvcitylaos.com; 48 Th Fa Ngoum; r incl breakfast 220,000-390,000K; naW)
Not to be confused with various other ‘city’ hotels in the capital, the LV has a great location near the riverfront. Rooms are spacious and well appointed, although it is worth the ego-massage of VIP just for the four-poster bed and extra space. Rooms include free laundry, so will be even better value if you are returning from a jungle trek.
oHotel KhamvongsaHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-218415; www.hotelkhamvongsa.com; Th Khounboulom; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$40/45/80; naW)
Lovely French-era building lovingly reincarnated as a welcoming boutique hotel; think belle-époque touches like glass-tear lightshades, chequerboard-tiled floors, and softly lit simple rooms with two-poster beds, wood floors and Indo-chic decor. Rooms on the 3rd and 4th floors have masterful views. There’s also a restful courtyard and restaurant. Breakfast is a treat.
ITINERARIES
One Week
After spending a few days in riverside Vientiane sampling its Soviet-Franco architecture, sophisticated bars and Asian-fusion cuisine, travel north three hours to the beautiful karst country of Vang Vieng, a former party town turned outdoor activity haven for cycling, climbing, trekking and ziplining. From here catch a bus to unforgettable Luang Prabang to experience its temples, crumbling villas, pampering spas, bike rides and Gallic cuisine.
Two Weeks
Follow the one-week itinerary, then take a two-day slow boat up the Mekong River to Huay Xai, having already booked yourself in for the memorable Gibbon Experience and its overnight stays in jungle tree-houses. If you’ve got time head up to Luang Namtha for a trek in the wild Nam Ha National Protected Area, where you can also kayak and homestay with a number of great tour providers. From here you can fly back to Vientiane to catch your flight out.
5Eating
For such a small capital city, Vientiane boasts a range of culinary options and is an exceptional spot for fine dining on a budget.
oDoi Ka NoiLAOTIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-55898959; 242 Sapang Mor; mains 25,000-50,000K; h10am-2.30pm Tue-Thu, 10am-9pm Fri-Sun; W)
An authentic and unmissable Lao restaurant near That Luang that is guaranteed to spice up your life. The menu changes daily and focuses on home recipes and seasonal ingredients. Sample dishes include fish curry with hummingbird-tree flowers and bamboo curry with mushrooms. Co-owned by a photographer, there are some stunning food shots adorning the walls.
oThe State of PastaFUSION$
(MAP; %021-253322; www.thestateofpasta.com; Th Manthatourath; mains 20,000-45,000K; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat; aW)
Imagine fresh Italian pasta paired with traditional Lao flavours. That’s the concept behind this new fusion restaurant, which has dishes you won’t find anywhere else on the planet. Take the humdrum Bolognese sauce, re-imagined here with the ingredients of láhp (minced meat, local herbs and spices). Chill music, draft beers and an upstairs cocktail bar will have you lingering long after the meal.
oNaked EspressoCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-56222269; Th Manthatourath; dishes 25,000-50,000K; h7am-5pm; aW)
One of the best-loved coffee shops in Vientiane, Naked specialises in home-grown Lao coffee and selected gourmet imports from places as diverse as Ethiopia and Indonesia. Light meals are also available, including salads and sandwiches, plus some impressive homemade baked goods. Australian Prime Minister Malcolm Turnbull dropped by for a coffee in 2016.
Bakery By BorisBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-77792228; www.facebook.com/bakerybyboris; off Th Setthathirath; snacks 10,000-25,000K, meals 30,000-50,000K; h7am-7pm; aW)
With high glass ceilings and a minimalist design, this sleek new cafe is like a giant fishbowl marooned in a leafy oasis next to Wat Si Muang. Paris-trained chef Boris Luangkhot makes drool-worthy macarons, croissants and homemade ice creams in flavours such as durian and passion fruit. There are also quiches, coffees and baguette sandwiches for a midday pick-me-up.
Noy’s Fruit HeavenCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Th Hengboun; mains 20,000-30,000K; h7am-9pm; aW)
Noy’s is a homely, colourful juice bar with Chinese paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling. Stop in to pick up a few of your ‘five a day’ or decimate your hangover with one of its dragonfruit, coconut, mango, or tomato-juice shakes (15,000K). It also turns out super-fresh fruit salads and burgers.
Kung’s Cafe LaoLAOTIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-219101; near Ministry of Health, Phiawat Village; mains 12,000-20,000K; h7am-4pm; 
v)
Approaching cult status with Vientiane residents in the know, Kung’s Cafe is hard to find, but well worth the effort. Affable Kung has decorated the local diner with hanging gourds and has a simple and effective menu that is superb value. Try the sticky-rice pancake or phat Lao and wash it down with a signature coffee and coconut.
Once Upon a TimeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %030-5809988; Th Dong Palan; mains 20,000-60,000K; h7am-6pm; aW)
Feed your inner princess with a trip to this fairy-tale-themed cafe in the Phonthan part of town. The owner-barista here has won multiple awards in Thailand and the breakfasts are a cut above the guesthouse and budget-hotel offerings.
oSenglao CafeFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %030-5880588; mains 30,000-200,000K; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun; aW)
Named after a now-defunct cinema in the centre of town, this contemporary restaurant has a cinematic theme and restored leather chairs from the old movie hall. The fusion menu is ambitious but executed with some panache and includes everything from fusion squid-ink pasta with scallops to stone-baked pizzas. Films are shown at weekends.
oLao KitchenLAOTIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-254332; Th Hengboun; mains 25,000-70,000K; h11am-10pm; aWv)
This superb contemporary Lao restaurant is unfailingly creative in its execution of trad Lao dishes. Colourful walls, alt tunes and good service complement a menu spanning stews, Luang Prabang sausage, láhp variations, stir-fried morning glory (water spinach), spring rolls, Mekong fish soup and palate-friendly sorbets. Choose the level of spice with chilli gradings of one to three.
Sputnik BurgerBURGERS$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %030-9376504; www.facebook.com/SputnikBurger; Th Setthathirath; mains 45,000-110,000K; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat; aW)
A contemporary burger joint featuring great beef burgers with Swiss cheese, bacon, eggplant and many other additions and sauces. Salads and milkshakes, too. Exposed-brick walls, low lighting and a bisected VW bug outside – which serves as two little booths – make this a fun spot. It’s in the same building as Jazzy Brick (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-212489; Th Setthathirath; h7pm-late; W).
6Drinking & Nightlife
oBor Pen YangBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-27873965; Th Fa Ngoum; h10am-midnight; W)
Overlooking mother Mekong, a cast of locals, expats, bar girls and travellers assembles at this tin-roofed, wood-raftered watering hole to gaze at the sunset over nearby Thailand. Western tunes, pool tables and a huge bar to drape yourself over, as well as international football and rugby on large flat-screen TVs.
Khop Chai DeuBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-223022; www.inthira.com; Th Setthathirath; h7am-midnight)
KCD boasts low-lit interiors and a sophisticated drinks list, plus activities like speed dating and women’s arm wrestling. On the 3rd floor there’s a super-slick bar with great views. A popular place for draught Beerlao, and there’s plenty of good food to go with it.
Chokdee CafeBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-263847; Th Fa Ngoum; h10am-midnight; W)
A Belgian bar and restaurant on the riverfront, Chokdee offers one of the best selections of Belgian brews in Asia with around 70 varieties to sample. Keep the flag flying with a bucket of moules (mussels) and frites (French fries), with 20 original sauces available to douse them in.
CCC BarGAY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-55448686; Th Sihom; h7.30pm-late)
The only gay bar in town, this place draws a convivial crowd and pushes things up a notch on weekends. There are occasional clandestine cabaret shows, though sadly local officials put an end to the regular performances in 2016 in a crackdown on gay establishments. CCC draws a mixed crowd from 1am as one of the only late, late places in the capital.
Le TrioCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-22553552; Th Setthathirath; h8am-5pm; W)
Le Trio roasts its own coffee and is one of the top hang-outs for caffeine cravers in Vientiane. It also offers fragrant herbal teas, juices and blends, plus some creative waffles and desserts.
3Entertainment
Institut Français du LaosARTS CENTRE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Centre Culturel et de Coopération Linguistique; %021-215764; www.if-laos.org; Th Lan Xang; cinema 10,000K; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4pm Sat)F
Dance, art exhibitions, literary discussions and live music all take place in this Gallic hive of cultural activity. As well as cult French films – shown Wednesdays at 2.30pm (kids) and Fridays at 6.30pm (adults) – the centre also offers French and Lao language lessons.
WHAT TO WEAR
Lightweight and loose-fitting clothes are the best all-round option in Laos, including cottons and linens to combat the humidity. Laos is not a very dressy place unless you are living the high life in Vientiane or Luang Prabang, so smart clothes are not really a necessity. If heading to the mountains of the north, then pack a jacket and/or jumper for the cool nights. While shorts are acceptable throughout the country, have something to cover elbows and knees for temple visits. Travellers heading to Vang Vieng should remember they are not on the Thai islands and dress appropriately after river tubing, by covering up with a sarong or similar.
7Shopping
oT’Shop Lai GalleryCOSMETICS, HOMEWARES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-223178; www.laococo.com; off Th In Paeng; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) S
Vientiane’s finest shop. Imagine a melange of aromas: coconut, aloe vera, honey, frangipani and magnolia, all of them emanating from body oils, soaps, sprays, perfumes and lip balms, plus bangles, prints, fountain pens and more. These wonderful products are made with sustainable, locally sourced products by disadvantaged women who make up the Les Artisans Lao cooperative.
CamacraftsARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Mulberries; www.camacrafts.org; Th Nokèokoummane; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) S
Stocks silk clothes and weavings from Xieng Khuang Province, plus some bed and cushion covers in striking Hmong-inspired designs. All of the shop’s Fairtrade products come from the artisan communities it supports in rural Laos.
Indochina HandicraftsARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-223528; Th Setthathirath; h10am-7pm)
Vientiane’s version of the Old Curiosity Shop, this enchanting den of Buddha statuary sells antique Ho Chi Minh and Mao busts, Russian wristwatches, communist memorabilia, Matchbox cars, medals, snuff boxes and vintage serving trays. It’s a visit that shouldn’t be missed.
Talat SaoMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Morning Market; Th Lan Xang; h7am-5pm)
A once-memorable Vientiane shopping experience has sadly undergone a facelift; two-thirds of its stalls selling opium pipes, jewellery and traditional antiques have been ripped down and replaced with a eunuch of a modern mall. The remaining building’s fabric merchants are hanging by a thread.
8Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Vientiane’s medical facilities can leave a lot to be desired, so for anything serious make a break for the border and the much more sophisticated hospitals in Thailand.
International Clinic (MAP; %021-214021; Th Fa Ngoum; h24hr) Part of the Mahasot Hospital; probably the best place for not-too-complex emergencies. Some English-speaking doctors. Take ID and cash.
MONEY
Banks change cash and issue cash advances (mostly in kip, but occasionally in US dollars and Thai baht) against Visa and/or MasterCard. Many now have ATMs that work with foreign cards, but it’s often cheaper to get a cash advance manually.
POST
The Main Post Office (MAP; %021-216425; Th Saylom; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) offers poste restante, stamps, wiring money and a courier service.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist Information Centre (MICT; MAP; %021-212248; www.tourismlaos.org; Th Lan Xang; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-4pm) is a worthwhile information centre with easy-to-use descriptions of each province, helpful staff who speak decent English, as well as brochures and regional maps.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Central Vientiane has plenty of agencies that can book air and Thai train tickets and organise visas for Myanmar and Vietnam.
Green Discovery (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-223022; www.greendiscoverylaos.com; Th Setthathirath; h8am-9pm)
Lin Travel Service (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-218707; 239 Th Hanoi/Phnom Penh; h8.30am-9pm)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Departures from Vientiane’s Wattay International Airport are very straightforward. The domestic terminal is in the older, white building east of the more impressive international terminal, was in the midst of a US$60 million expansion at the time of writing. Food can be found upstairs in the international terminal.
BUS
In Laos roads are poor and buses break down, so times can take longer than advertised. Buses use three different stations in Vientiane, all with some English-speaking staff, plus food and drink stands.
The Northern Bus Station (Th Asiane), about 2km northwest of the airport, serves all points north, including China. Destinations and the latest ticket prices are listed in English. Minivans to Vang Vieng leave from here, though most people end up booking more expensive tourist buses from agencies in town, which typically include a pickup from your guesthouse and depart from an unmarked stop in front of the LV City Riverine Hotel.
The Southern Bus Station (Dong Dok Bus Station; Rte 13 South), also known as khíw lot lák káo (Km 9 Bus Station), is 9km out of town and serves everywhere to the south. Most buses to Vietnam depart from here.
The final departure point is the Talat Sao Bus Station (Central Bus Station; MAP; %021-216507; Th Khu Vieng) from where desperately slow local buses run to destinations within Vientiane Province, and some more distant destinations, though for the latter you’re better off going to the Northern or Southern Bus Stations. The Thai–Lao International Bus (MAP) also uses this station for its trips to Khon Kaen, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai and Udon Thani.
For sleeper buses to Kunming, China (US$80, 38 hours, departing 2pm and 4pm), contact the Tong Li Bus Company (%021-242657; Northern Bus Station). For Vietnam, buses leave the Southern Bus Station daily at 6.30pm for Hanoi (220,000K, 24 hours) via Vinh (180,000K, 16 hours), and also for Danang (230,000K, 22 hours) via Hué (200,000K, 19 hours). For Ho Chi Minh City change at Danang; contact SDT (%021-720175; Southern Bus Station) for details.
BUSES FROM VIENTIANE
| DESTINATION | STATION | FARE (K) | DISTANCE (KM) | DURATION (HR) | DEPARTURES |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Don Khong (fan) | Southern | 150,000 | 788 | 16-19 | 10.30am |
| Lak Sao (fan) | Southern | 85,000 | 334 | 6-8 | 5am, 6am, 7am, 11.30am, 6.30pm |
| Luang Prabang | Northern | 110,000 | 384 | 10-11 | 6.30am, 7.30am, 8.30am, 11am, 1.30pm, 4pm, 6pm (air-con) |
| Luang Prabang (VIP) | Northern | 130,000-150,000 | 384 | 9-12 | 8am, 9am, 7.30pm, 8pm |
| Nong Khai | Talat Sao | 15,000 | 25 | 1½ | 7.30am, 9.30am, 12.40pm, 2.30pm, 3.30pm, 6pm |
| Pakse (fan) | Southern | 110,000 | 677 | 16-18 | regular from 10am to 4pm |
| Pakse (VIP) | Southern | 170,000 | 677 | 8-10 | 5.15am, 6pm, 6.30pm, 7pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9pm |
| Phonsavan | Northern | 110,000 | 374 | 10-11 | 6.30am, 7.30am, 9.30am |
| Phonsavan (sleeper) | Northern | 150,000 | 374 | 10-11 | 8pm |
| Sam Neua (sleeper) | Northern | 210,000 | 612 | 22-24 | 2pm |
| Savannakhet | Southern | 75,000 | 457 | 8-11 | half-hourly 5.30-9am, or any bus to Pakse |
| Savannakhet (VIP) | Southern | 120,000 | 457 | 8-10 | 8.30pm |
| Tha Khaek | Southern | 60,000 | 332 | 6 | 4am, 5am, 6am, noon, or any bus to Savannakhet or Pakse |
| Udomxai | Northern | 150,000-170,000 | 578 | 16-19 | 6.45am, 1.45pm, 5pm |
| Vang Vieng (minivan) | Northern | 60,000 | 157 | 4 | 7am, 9am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm, 5pm |
8Getting Around
Central Vientiane is entirely accessible on foot. For exploring neighbouring districts, however, you’ll need transport.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
From the airport, taxis to the centre cost US$7 and minivans are available for US$8. Only official taxis can pick up at the airport. If you’re on a budget and don’t have a lot of luggage, simply walk 500m to the airport gate and cross Th Souphanouvong and hail a shared jumbo (20,000K per person). Prices on shared transport will rise if you’re going further than the centre.
BICYCLE
Cycling is a cheap, easy and recommended way of getting around mostly flat Vientiane. Loads of guesthouses and several shops hire out bikes for 10,000K to 20,000K per day. Mountain bikes are available but are more expensive at 30,000K to 40,000K; try Lao Bike (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-55090471; Th Setthathirath; h8.30am-6pm).
BUS
There is a city bus system, but it’s oriented more towards the distant suburbs than the central Chanthabuli district. Most buses leave from Talat Sao Bus Station, which is currently undergoing a massive renovation. The number 14 Tha Deua bus to the Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge and Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park) runs every 20 minutes from 5.30am to 6pm and costs 6000K. Buses 30 and 49 run past the airport (4000K) regularly. Bus number 8 runs to the Northern Bus Station costs 5000K and number 29 to the Southern Bus Station costs 3000K.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There are several international car-hire companies with representation in Vientiane, including Avis-Budget (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-22864488; www.avis.la; Th Setthathirath; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) and Sixt (%021-513228; www.sixtlao.com; Wattay International Airport; h8.30am-10.30pm). Keep in mind that, while a basic sedan will get you around the city, you’ll need a sturdy 4WD for trips further afield.
Scooters are a popular means of getting around Vientiane and can be hired throughout the centre of town. Recommended hire places include the following:
Mixay Bike 2 (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-77882510; Th Chau Anou; scooter per 24hr 60,000-80,000K; h7.30am-8pm)
TL Motor Bike (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-55528299; Th François Ngin; scooters per day 70,000K; h7.30am-9pm)
JUMBO & TUK-TUK
Drivers of jumbos and tuk-tuks will take passengers on journeys as short as 500m or as far as 20km. Understanding the various types of tuk-tuk is important if you don’t want to be overcharged (and can save you arguments in addition to money). Tourist tuk-tuks are the most expensive, while share jumbos that run regular routes around town (eg Th Luang Prabang to Th Setthathirath or Th Lan Xang to That Luang) are much cheaper, usually less than 10,000K per person.
GETTING TO THAILAND: THA NA LENG TO NONG KHAI
Getting to the border At the Tha Na Leng (Laos)/Nong Khai (Thailand) border crossing (6am to 10pm), the Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge (Saphan Mittaphap Thai-Lao) spans the Mekong River. The Laos border is approximately 20km from Vientiane, and the easiest and cheapest way to the bridge is to cross on the Thai–Lao International Bus. It conducts daily departures for the Thai cities of Khon Kaen, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai and Udon Thani. Alternative means of transport between Vientiane and the bridge include taxi (400B), tuk-tuk (50,000K/300B), jumbo (200B) or the number 14 Tha Deua bus from Talat Sao Bus Station (6000K) between 5.30am and 6pm. To cross from Thailand, tuk-tuks are available from Nong Khai’s train station (20B) and bus station (55B) to the Thai border post at the bridge. You can also hop on the Thai–Lao International Bus from Nong Khai bus station (55B, 1½ hours) or Udon Thani bus station (80B, two hours).
At the border Travellers from most countries enjoy 30-day, visa-free access to Thailand. Lao visas (30 days) are available for US$20 to US$42, depending on your nationality. If you don’t have a photo you’ll be charged an extra US$1, and be aware that an additional US$1 ‘overtime fee’ is charged from 6am to 8am and 4pm to 10pm on weekdays, as well as on weekends and holidays. Don’t be tempted to use a tuk-tuk driver to get your Lao visa, no matter what they tell you, as it will take far longer than doing it yourself, and you’ll have to pay for the ‘service’. Insist they take you straight to the bridge.
Moving on Sleeper trains from Nong Khai to Bangkok leave at 7.10pm and cost 1160/750B for a 1st/2nd-class sleeper ticket (11 hours).
For information on making this border crossing in reverse see here.