Philippines
Luzon
Manila
The Cordillera
Vigan
Bicol
Mindoro
Puerto Galera
The Visayas
Boracay
Negros
Siquijor
Cebu
Bohol
Mindanao
Siargao
Camiguin
Palawan
Puerto Princesa
Sabang
Port Barton
El Nido
Busuanga & the Calamian Islands
Understand the Philippines
Survival Guide
Philippines
%63 / Pop 102.6 million
Why Go?
Just when you thought you had Asia figured out, you get to the Philippines. Instead of monks you have priests; instead of túk-túk you have tricycles; instead of pho you have adobo. At first glance the Philippines will disarm you more than charm you, but peel back the country’s skin and there are treasures aplenty to be found. This far-flung archipelago is defined by its emerald terraced rice fields, teeming mega-cities, mountain tribes, smouldering volcanoes, bug-eyed tarsiers, fuzzy water buffalo and laid-back people. Explore desert islands, descend into world-class dive sites, and venture deep into the mountains to visit remote tribes.
The Philippines possesses a quirky streak that takes a little time to appreciate. But in amongst the secret potions and healing lotions, wheezing bangkas (outrigger boats), crooked politicians, graffiti-splashed jeepneys, blaring karaoke and cheap beer, you’ll find a diverse land that fully rewards your travels.
When to Go
- Dec–Apr High season is dry season for most of the country; December to February are peak months.
- May & Nov Shoulder season. Gets hot in May ahead of the wet season.
- Jun–Oct Monsoon in most parts of the country and typhoons likely. Accommodation prices drop.
Best Places to Eat
Top Filipino Phrases
Good day Magandáng araw pô
Goodbye Paalam na pô
Thank you Salamat pô
Do you speak English? Marunong ka ba ng Inglés?
Don’t Miss
Filipinos revel in colourful fiestas, and it’s worth scheduling your travels around one. The granddaddy of them all is the Ati-Atihan festival in Kalibo in January. Cebu’s Sinulog Festival, also in January, sees revellers dancing a unique two-steps-forward, one-step-back shuffle, while Baguio’s Panagbenga involves a grand procession of floral floats. The Easter crucifixion ceremony in San Fernando, north of Manila, produces a more macabre tableau, with Catholic devotees being physically nailed to crosses. Every little town holds a fiesta, so your odds of seeing one are pretty good. The Filipino joie de vivre also manifests itself in other ways – namely, singing. A karaoke night out is essential. Or pay homage to Filipino cover bands worldwide with some live music. Cover-band shows in Malate can be lively, or head up to Quezon City or Makati for more original fare.
REGIONS AT A GLANCE
The Philippines consists of three main island groups: Luzon, the Visayas and Mindanao. You can rub shoulders with them in the megacity madness in Manila, the hill tribes in North Luzon, and indigenous village life in Mindanao. And you can go surfing along the eastern seaboard of the entire country, or enjoy good snorkelling practically everywhere. The Visayas most embody the defining image of the Philippines: a dreamy desert island festooned with palm trees and ringed by white sand. Palawan is a region apart, a fantastic otherworld of unspoiled rainforests and surreal seascapes.
Essential Outdoor Activities
Whale sharks Snorkelling with the gentle butanding of Donsolis the quintessential Philippine adventure.
Sagada caving Dodge stalactites, slither through crevasses and swim in crisp underground pools on the thrilling cave connection.
Malapascua diving Drop onto Monad Shoal to view thresher sharks by morning and manta rays by day.
Boracay Bulabog Beach’s shallow lagoon is perfect for kitesurfing and windsurfing; stiff winds from December to March challenge experts.
Siargao surfing Tackle the Philippines’ ultimate wave, Cloud Nine.
Entering the Country
Entering the country is straightforward and usually done by air through Manila, Cebu, Clark or Kalibo airports.
AT A GLANCE
Currency Peso (P)
Languages Tagalog (Filipino), English
Money ATMs abound in cities, but are scarce in remote areas
Visas Visa waivers on arrival (30 days) the norm.
Exchange Rates
| Australia | A$1 | P40 |
| Canada | C$1 | P40 |
| Euro zone | €1 | P60 |
| Japan | ¥100 | P46 |
| New Zealand | NZ$1 | P37 |
| Thailand | 10B | P15 |
| UK | £1 | P66 |
| USA | US$1 | P50 |
For current exchange rates see www.xe.com
Daily Costs
Dorm bed P450
Bottle of San Miguel beer P40
Two-tank scuba dive P2500
Short taxi ride P60
Resources
Philippine Newslink (www.philnews.com) News, views, links
ClickTheCity.com (www.clickthecity.com) A great listings site for happenings in Manila and around the country
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/philippines) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.
Philippines Highlights
1 Drifting among the limestone cathedrals and azure lagoons of the Bacuit Archipelago around El Nido.
2 Trekking through the skyscraping rice terraces around Banaue and Bontoc in North Luzon’s Cordillera.
3 Having a night out in Manila, a city that never sleeps.
4 Exploring sunken WWII wrecks and kayaking amid myriad islands around Coron.
5 Enjoying sun, seasports and dancing till dawn on the stunning beaches of Boracay.
6 Hopping from natural spring to coral reef to volcano to waterfall around the lush island of Camiguin.
7 Discovering unheralded Dumaguete, in an enviable mix of adventures and getaways.
8 Taking Cebu by storm: party in Cebu City, then detox on idyllic Malapascua Island.
9 Swimming with whale sharks in the waters over Donsol.
a Scuba diving and partying around busy Puerto Galera.
Luzon
The Philippines’ main island is a vast expanse of misty mountains, sprawling plains, simmering volcanoes and endless coastline – with Manila at the centre of it all. The island’s trophy piece is the northern mountainous area known as the Cordillera, where the Ifugao built their world-famous rice terraces in and around Banaue more than 2000 years ago. Along Luzon’s northwest coast, historic Vigan is the country’s best-preserved Spanish colonial-era town. Elsewhere, the southeast region of Bicol is home to fiery food and two of the country’s top attractions: the whale sharks of Donsol and the perfect cone of Mt Mayon.
Manila
%02 / Pop 12.95 million
Manila’s moniker, the ‘Pearl of the Orient’, couldn’t be more apt – its cantankerous shell reveals its jewel only to those resolute enough to pry. No stranger to hardship, the city has endured every disaster both humans and nature could throw at it, and yet today the chaotic metropolis thrives as a true Asian megacity.
As well as outstanding sightseeing, visitors who put in the effort will discover its creative soul – from edgy galleries to a lively indie music scene. Combine this with a penchant for speakeasy bars, artisan markets and single-origin coffees, and it’s clear to see that Manila’s not only one of Asia’s most underrated cities, but one of its coolest.
History
The Spanish brushed aside a Muslim fort here in 1571 and founded the modern city as the capital of their realm. Spanish residents were concentrated around the walled city of Intramuros until 1898, when the Spanish governor surrendered to the Filipinos at San Agustin Church. After being razed to the ground during WWII, the city grew exponentially during the postwar years as migrants left the countryside in search of new opportunities.
Metro Manila
1Sights
3Entertainment
7Shopping
8Information
8Transport
1Sights
Manila has a lot to see but if you’re short on time, focus on the downtown area, metro Manila’s epicentre.
1Intramuros
From its founding in 1571, Intramuros was the exclusive preserve of the Spanish ruling classes. Fortified with bastions, the wall enclosed an area of some 64 hectares. Start your walking tour at the Intramuros Visitors Center (MAP; %02-527 2961; Fort Santiago; 
h8am-6pm) 
S just inside the gate to Fort Santiago. It has an excellent free guided map of the walled city, available on request. Next door is a cinema inside a bomb-shelter cellar that screens a short film on the history of the area.
Guarding the entrance to the Pasig River is Intramuros’ premier tourist attraction: Fort Santiago (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Santa Clara St, Intramuros; adult/student P75/50; h8am-9pm). Within the fort grounds is an oasis of lovely manicured gardens, plazas and fountains leading to an arched gate and a pretty lily pond. Within is the beautifully presented Rizal Shrine museum (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Fort Santiago; adult/student P75/50; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun, 1-5pm Mon), where Dr José Rizal was incarcerated as he awaited execution in 1896.
The San Agustin Church (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-527 4060; General Luna St, Intramuros) was the only building left intact after the destruction of Intramuros in WWII. Built between 1587 and 1606, it is the oldest church in the Philippines. Attached is the renovated San Agustin Museum (MAP GOOGLE MAP; General Luna St, Intramuros; adult/student P200/160; h8am-noon & 1-6pm).
The once-grand Ayuntamiento (Old City Hall; MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-524 7007; Plaza de Roma, Intramuros; P50; h1hr tours at 11am & 4pm Tue & Fri) was destroyed in WWII and spent years as a parking lot before a faithful recreation of the original structure rose in 2010. Today it houses the country’s Treasury Bureau, but its most impressive rooms – the Marble Hall and the Sala de Sessiones, where both the Spanish and American colonial governments held court – can be visited on a tour.
Casa Manila (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-527 4084; Plaza Luis Complex, General Luna St, Intramuros; adult/student P75/50; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) is a beautiful reproduction of a Spanish colonial house, and offers a window into the opulent lifestyle of the gentry in the 19th century.
Intramuros & Rizal Park
1Top Sights
1Sights
3Entertainment
1Rizal Park
Still widely known as ‘Luneta’, Manila’s iconic central park is spread out over 60 hectares of open lawns, ornamental gardens, ponds, paved walks and wooded areas, dotted with monuments to a whole pantheon of Filipino heroes. It’s an atmospheric place to take a stroll, and, as the place where José Rizal was executed by the Spanish colonial authorities, it’s also of great historical significance.
Here you’ll find the Rizal Monument (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Rizal Park), fronted by a 46m flagpole and guarded by sentries in full regalia; it contains the hero’s mortal remains and stands as a symbol of Filipino nationhood. To one side of the monument you will find the Site of Rizal’s Execution (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Rizal Park; admission incl tour P20; h8am-5pm Wed-Sun); at the entrance is a black granite wall inscribed with Rizal’s ‘Mi Ultimo Adios’ (My Last Farewell).
In the middle of the park is the Central Lagoon, a pool lined with busts of Filipino heroes and martyrs, and a dancing musical fountain that erupts in colourful explosions in the evening. Just north of the lagoon is the open-air auditorium (MAP GOOGLE MAP), where the long-running (and free) classical Concert at the Park kicks off at 6pm on Sunday. There’s a free Filipino rock concert here at the same time every Saturday night.
The visitors centre (MAP; Kalaw Ave, Rizal Park; h8am-5pm) has a good map detailing the park’s attractions and info on upcoming concerts and events.
oNational Museum of the Filipino PeopleMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph; T Valencia Circle, Rizal Park; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
F
Within a resplendent neoclassical building, this superb museum houses a vast and varied collection, including the skullcap of the Philippines’ earliest known inhabitant, Tabon Man (said by some to actually be a woman), who lived around 24,000 BC. A large section of the museum is devoted to the wreck of the San Diego, a Spanish galleon that sank off the coast of Luzon in 1600, with salvaged items such as shell-encrusted swords, coins, porcelain plates and jewellery on display.
TOP MANILA MUSEUMS
Manila boasts an eclectic bunch of museums. Some of the best include:
Ayala Museum (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.ayalamuseum.org; Greenbelt 4, Ayala Centre, Makati; adult/student P425/300; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) Features four floors of superbly curated exhibits on Filipino culture, art and history.
Marikina Shoe Museum (MAP; www.marikina.gov.ph/#!/museum; JP Rizal St, Marikina City; P50; h8am-noon & 1-5pm, closed holidays) A must for Imelda Marcos junkies, with over 800 pairs of the former First Lady’s shoes plus footwear from other Filipino luminaries.
Metropolitan Museum of Manila (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-523 7855; www.metmuseum.ph; Roxas Blvd, Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas, Central Bank, Pasay; P100; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, gold exhibit to 4.30pm) World-class gallery tracing the evolution of Filipino art from the early 20th century to the present.
1Binondo & Quiapo
After centuries of suppression by the Spanish, Manila’s Chinese population quickly rose on the economic and social ladder under more liberal administrations. Today the centre of the vibrant Chinese community is Chinatown, demarcated by the Arch of Goodwill (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Chinatown) and the Filipino–Chinese Friendship Arch (MAP; Paredes St, Chinatown). The main street is Ongpin St, which straddles Binondo and Santa Cruz. It’s lined with teahouses, goldsmiths, herbalists, and shops selling moon cakes, incense, paper money to burn for ancestors and other curios. The Chinese Cemetery (MAP; Rizal Ave Extension, Santa Cruz; h7.30am-7pm) F is worth a visit for its gaudy and outlandish mausoleums.
TTours
Sun Cruises (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-831 8140; www.corregidorphilippines.com; Esplanade Seaside Terminal, Seaside Blvd, Pasay; ferry only weekday/weekend P1400/1500, excursion incl lunch & tram tour weekday/weekend P2550/2750, walking tours P1800; h6.30am-4.15pm) and Prestige Cruises (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-832 8200; www.manilabaycruise.com; Esplanade Seaside Terminal, Seaside Blvd, Pasay; without/with buffet dinner P350/750) run evening boat trips on Manila Bay, with an optional dinner, at 6pm and 8pm (extra trips on weekends).
Sun Cruises also runs the day trips to historic Corregidor Island.
oWalk This WayTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0920 909 2021; https://carlosceldranwalks.wordpress.com; adult/student P1350/650)
Carlos Celdran’s walking tour of Intramuros is a hilariously eccentric one-man show of Filipino history and trivia. Highly recommended for those with a sense of humour and an open mind. His Intramuros headquarters is in his sort-of souvenir shop, La Monja Loca, opposite San Agustin Church. He is also active in efforts to revive downtown Manila through VivaManila (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.vivamanila.org; Room 500, First United Bldg, Escolta St, Binondo), which he co-founded.
Old Manila WalksWALKING
(%02-711 3823, 0918 962 6452; www.oldmanilawalks.com; tours P1000-1400)
Tour leader Ivan Man Dy has a deep knowledge of Manila and its history and culture. He’s an expert at ferreting out the city’s often overlooked secrets, and is most known for his all-you-can-eat Chinatown foodie tours (P1200, 3½ hours), as well as a Chinese Cemetery tour (P650, two hours).
Smokey ToursTOUR
(%02-622 1325, 0917 578 5398; www.smokeytours.com; tours per person P950-1200)
Smokey’s signature slum tours are highly educational, experiential, interactive forays into the baryos of Tondo, Manila’s poorest district. This is not voyeurism; tours are led by underprivileged guides, and proceeds go to an NGO assisting with disaster relief and preparedness in slum areas. The operator has expanded and now does tours of the North Cemetery (MAP; Santa Cruz; tour guides approx P300), plus lighter market and bicycle tours.
BambikeCYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-525 8289; www.bambike.com; Plaza Luis Complex, General Luna St, Intramuros; 1/2½hr tours P600/1200; h10am & 3pm)
Bambike runs guided cycling tours around Intramuros on handmade bicycles constructed using bamboo frames. Pedalling the laid-back backstreets of the walled city makes for a great way to cover expansive Intramuros, taking in all the main stops plus some less-visited gems. Prices include entrance fees, helmets and water.
zFestivals & Events
Black Nazarene ProcessionRELIGIOUS
(h9 Jan & Holy Week)
The Black Nazarene, a life-size and highly revered statue of Christ in Quiapo Church (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Quezon Blvd, Quiapo), is paraded through the streets in massive processions on 9 January and again during the week before Easter (Holy Week). Thousands of devotees crowd the streets carrying the image, believed to be miraculous, on their shoulders.
Makati (Central Business District)
1Top Sights
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
8Information
4Sleeping
4Malate, Ermita & Pasay
Like a smaller version of Bangkok’s Khao San Rd, Malate’s Adriatico St is Manila’s traditional stamping ground for backpackers. However, there’s also some classy higher-end and midrange accommodation around too.
oMakabata Guesthouse & CafeGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-254 0212; www.makabata.org; 2218 Leveriza St, Malate; incl breakfast dm P495-720, s P1050, d P1400-1800; 
n
a)
This training hotel provides at-risk youth with a chance to get a start in the hospitality industry. But it’s more than just a feel-good story. Rooms boast an impressive traditional-meets-modern design, capiz-shell windows offsetting boutique wash basins and plasma TVs. Most rooms have balconies overlooking a colourful local neighbourhood, at 700m south of Remedios Circle. The cafe serves tasty light bites.
oPink Manila HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-484 3145; www.pinkmanilahostel.com; 5th fl, cnr Bautista St & San Pedro St, Pasay; dm fan/air-con P450/570, d P1600; a
W
s)
Newly renovated and looking smarter than ever, Pink is a sociable hostel where on any given afternoon you might find bikini-clad or shirtless backpackers lazing around the pools drinking and playing guitar. There’s a nice mix of dorms with beds swathed in trademark pink linen, a hammock-strewn roof deck, and rocking monthly parties. The somewhat random location is equally convenient to Malate and Makati.
Bahay Kubo HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-243 7537; 1717 M Orosa St, Malate; dm P400-500, d P1500-3600; aW)
Helpful owners and homey if busy common spaces are the hallmarks of this popular Malate crash pad. The downstairs common area, open to the street, lends it a friendly neighbourhood feel, while upstairs is for lounging. Most of the six- to 14-bed dorms are air-conditioned; they are roomy enough, with big wooden lockers.
Tambayan Capsule HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-521 8835; www.tambayanhostel.com; 1602 Bocobo St, Malate; dm P550, s/d/q from P1250/1450/2850; naW)
The dorms are the highlight here. Picture beds (capsules) with roll-up privacy blinds, personal charging stations, private safety boxes, bright reading lights and crisp air-con. Alas, the ‘capsule’ concept is less effective with the windowless private rooms, which feel cramped and overpriced. Bonus points for the beautiful antique house, once a wealthy Chinese merchant’s mansion.
Chill-Out GuesthouseHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-218 7227; chilloutmanila63@gmail.com; 612 Remedios St, Malate; dm P350, r with fan P650-850, r with air-con P1200-1450; a
iW)
P350 air-con dorms? Works for us. They are plenty liveable, too, if a bit cramped. But what really makes this French-managed place stick out are the air-con private rooms, which are downright roomy and have touches like couches, bedside tables and art on the walls. Hang out, cook and eat in the kitchen/common area.
Wanderers Guest HouseHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-525 1534; www.wanderersguesthouse.com; 1750 Adriatico St, Malate; dm with fan/air-con P350/400, s/d from P690/790, tr P1350-1800; aiW)
In the heart of Malate, Wanderers knows precisely what backpackers want and delivers beautifully with a mix of clean dorms and private rooms (some with balconies), excellent travel info and cooking facilities. The highlight is its grungy rooftop bar-restaurant–chill-out lounge, perfect for socialising with other travellers over cheap booze.
oAmélie HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-875 7888; www.ameliehotelmanila.com; 1667 Bocobo St, Malate; r incl breakfast P3900-5100; naiWs)
A shot in the arm for Malate’s hopeful revival, Amélie’s grey-stone minimalism is the perfect antidote to the sweaty, steamy metropolis. The throwback art-deco furniture barely fills the immense rectangular space of rooms. Head up to the rooftop plunge pool for happy hour and dial up drinks from the lobby bar, 10 stories below.
1775 Adriatico SuitesHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-524 5402; www.adriaticosuites.com; 1775 Adriatico St, Malate; d/tw incl breakfast from P2200/2500, apt from P5000; naWs)
Down a side street near Remedios Circle, this is your best bet for a quiet yet central midranger in Malate. There’s a brand-new wing with snazzy doubles featuring attractive bed frames, cosy mattresses, desks and Netflix-enabled smart TVs. The pleasant pool and Jacuzzi are welcome amenities at this price point. The older wing consists mainly of apartments.
4Makati
Makati’s hip Poblacion area has emerged as Manila’s flashpacker district, with more than a dozen hostels and poshtels and loads of happening bars and restaurants.
oOur Melting PotHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; OMP; %0915 105 9459; www.ourmeltingpotmakati.com; 37 Polaris St, 3rd fl, Poblacion, Makati; dm P500-600, s/d without bathroom P1000/1450, d with bathroom P1750; naiW)
Makati’s original backpacker relocated to a larger space in 2016 and added more beds, a fully equipped kitchen and a guests-only roof deck, while retaining its trademark friendly service and good vibes. Dorms feature turbo-charged air-conditioning, individual electrical sockets and thin privacy-protecting curtains on the beds. The shoes-off policy (slippers provided) ensures cleanliness, and basic breakfast is included.
MNL Boutique HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-511 7514; www.mnlboutiquehostel.com; 4688 B Valdez St, Poblacion, Makati; incl breakfast dm P400-600, r without bathroom P1500; naiW)
Incorporating industrial decor such as polished concrete and colourful plywood doors, arty MNL prides itself on being a creative, comfy backpackers. The rooms are cramped and lack natural light, but the beds are quality, unsavoury smells are absent, and the street-level locale is a plus.
Lokal HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-890 0927; www.lokalhostel.com; 3rd fl, 5023 P Burgos St, Poblacion, Makati; dm with fan/air-con from P400/500, s/d from P900/1400; aiW)
In the middle of Makati’s red-light district, this hostel offers respite from within. The dorms lack windows but are spacious and have big beds and murals, and include a simple breakfast. The private doubles are the best value you’ll find in Makati.
oLa Casita MercedesB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-887 4385; http://lacasitamercedes.com; 5956 Enriquez St, Poblacion, Makati; incl breakfast s P1500-2200, d P2500-2900; naW) S
This sophisticated addition to Poblacion occupies a beautifully restored 1930s house. Step into an Old-World lobby of antique mirrors, filigreed transoms and gorgeous machuka (Mediterranean–style) tiles. The eight rooms, each with its own character, have touches like four-poster beds and original art-deco furniture. The neighbourhood wakes up early, so bring earplugs.
Z HostelHOSTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-856 0851; www.zhostel.com; 5660 Don Pedro St, Poblacion, Makati; dm P650-850, d incl breakfast P2430; aiW)
This is Manila’s number-one party address for groovy backpackers thanks to its rocking rooftop bar and chic ground-floor cafe. It’s a huge space, with 130 beds over seven floors. The airy dorms are all en suite and boast sturdy iron-framed beds with personal charging stations.
5Eating
Most of the best (and priciest) restaurants are in Makati and the Fort (BGC). Malate has plenty of neighbourhood colour around Remedios Circle and J Nakpil St. Self-caterers will find large supermarkets in the malls, or try outdoor markets such as Malate’s San Andres Public Market (MAP GOOGLE MAP; San Andres St, Malate; h7am-6pm) and the weekend pop-up Mercato Central (MAP; 7th Ave cnr 25th St, BGC; mains P100-300; h6pm-3am Thu-Sat).
5Malate, Ermita & Paco
Shawarma Snack CenterMIDDLE EASTERN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 485 R Salas St, Ermita; shawarma P60-75, meals P85-300; h24hr; a)
It doesn’t sound like much, but this streetside eatery serves the richest and most flavourful falafel, mutabal (eggplant dip), hummus and kebabs in downtown Manila.
Midtown DinerFILIPINO, AMERICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 551 Padre Faura St, Ermita; meals P115-180; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; aW)
Filipino take on an old-school meat-and-potatoes American diner. Home in on the budget set meals, which include a soup and iced tea.
AristocratFILIPINO$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.aristocrat.com.ph; cnr Roxas Blvd & San Andres St, Malate; mains P200-400; h24hr)
Aristocrat began life in 1936 as a mobile snack cart and is so iconic that it has its own historical marker. A replica of the old Ford canteen is incorporated into the front window. It serves a huge range of Filipino food, but chicken barbecue is the speciality. Branches have sprung up all over the country but you want this one.
5Makati
Beni’s FalafelMIDDLE EASTERN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-621 6163; A Venue Mall, B Valdez St Entrance, Poblacion, Makati; dishes P130-225; h24hr; aW)
Everything on the menu of this unassuming Yemeni-owned eatery is original and done to perfection. The shakshuka (eggs poached in a spicy tomato sauce) and Beni’s falafel are our faves. Shawarmas are served out of neighbouring Beni’s Grill. There’s another Beni’s branch in Mall of Asia.
TambaiFUSION$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Felipe St, Makati; dishes P70-300; h6pm-midnight; aW)
Quick but highly original Japanese-infused Filipino snacks served on the street or in a small air-conditioned room at the back. Try the to-die-for beef-rib laki-tori sticks.
Friends & NeighborsFILIPINO$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 5070 P Burgos St, Poblacion, Makati; dishes P70-100; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat; a)
This slightly upscale turu-turò (point-point, or fast food) restaurant is a great introduction to home-cooked Filipino food, in an air-conditioned setting.
A Venue Food MarketFILIPINO$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Baga Manila; A Venue Mall, Makati Ave, Makati; dishes P75-85; h1pm-midnight)
This outdoor food court next to A Venue Mall is a great introduction to Filipino food, including many regional specialities.
oCorner Tree CafeCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-897 0295; www.cornertreecafe.com; 150 Jupiter St, Makati; mains P250-350; h11am-10pm; aW
v) S
Corner Tree provides a tranquil escape from busy Jupiter St, not to mention heavenly vegetarian fare that even diehard meat-eaters will love. The soups, stews, spinach filo triangles and smoothies are our favourites, or try the tofu walnut burger or vego chilli. Vegan and gluten-free options available.
YardstickCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-624 9511; www.yardstickcoffee.com; 106 Esteban St, Legazpi Village, Makati; mains P300; h7am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun; aW)
This serious coffee shop doubles as a wholesaler of single-origin beans and La Marzocco equipment. It’s in a bright, airy space with a roasting area out back and a glassed-in facility for frequent cuppings and coffee workshops. Brewed coffee is steam pumped and there’s a simple blackboard menu of pasta, waffles and rice bowls.
oEl ChupacabraMEXICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 5782 Felipe St, Poblacion, Makati; tacos P110-170; h11am-3am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri-Sun; a)
Bringing the Mexican street-food craze to Makati, El Chupacabra is a grungy open-air taqueria cooking up a mouthwatering selection of soft corn tortilla tacos. Go for the spicy chipotle shrimp or sisig (sizzling grilled pork) tacos. It’s wildly popular so expect to wait in the evenings (no reservations). Grab a margarita in the meantime.
TimHoWanHONG KONG$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Glorietta 3, Makati; small plates P120-170; h10am-9.40pm; a)
Michelin-starred in Hong Kong, this dim sum institution was an instant smash upon opening in Manila in 2014. It’s a more sanitised experience than its hole-in-the-wall parent, but the signature BBQ pork buns leave nothing to be desired. We also love the vermicelli rolls, but really you can’t go wrong here.
Restock Coffee & CuriositiesCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 7365 Guijo St, Makati; mains P250-325; h1-9pm Mon-Sat; aW)
This hip little cafe is home to the pizzadilla, the bastard child of pizza and the quesadilla. Paintings and vintage bric-a-brac are on sale, and many creatives fuel up on the espresso-based coffee drinks and use the place as a work space.
5Binondo
Escolta Ice Cream & SnacksICE CREAM, FILIPINO$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 275 Escolta St, Binondo; mains P100-150, ice cream scoops P30; h8.30am-8pm; a)
Opened in 2009, this unassuming eatery has acquired cult status and is a de-rigueur stop on any tour of historic Escolta St. In addition to ice cream (try the nine-scoop Mt Everest if you dare), it serves good-value Filipino lunch meals to keep the area’s struggling artists happy.
Polland Hopia CafeBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Escolta St, Binondo; snacks from P35; h7am-7pm; a)
A classic Tsinoy (Chinese Filipino) bakery marked by an awesome 1950s-style neon sign on Escolta St. Thin-crust hopia – dense sweet cakes filled with mung beans or ube (purple yam) – is the name of the game. Plenty of savoury surprises await too, plus crisp air-con.
SPLURGE
Every bit as interesting as it sounds, this chaotic Van Gogh is Bipolar (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0922 824 3051; 154 Maginhawa St, Quezon City; mains P300-500; hnoon-5pm & 6pm-midnight; a) inhabits a tiny space packed with curios and artworks. It’s run by artist Jetro, who cooks entirely original, delicious food in a riotous atmosphere that’ll likely see you dine wearing a flamboyant hat (grab one from the hatstand). Dinners are three- to five-course set meals, while lunch is à la carte.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Malate is popular with university kids and backpackers and, along with the Fort (BGC), is the centre of Manila’s gay nightlife. Makati is where the expats hang out, along with more and more travellers. Music lovers focus their love on Quezon City.
oLong BarCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 1 Raffles Dr, Makati; hnoon-2am)
Inspired by the Singapore original, this lobby-level watering hole at the Raffles Makati (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-795 0755; www.raffles.com/makati) has an unbeatable happy hour – all-you-can-drink beer, wine and cocktails (including the signature Singapore Sling) for P870 from 5pm to 8pm. The lacquered, suitably lengthy bar is a real treasure. Discarded peanut husks pile up on the floor.
oPura VidaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Don Pedro St cnr Jacobo St, Poblacion, Makati; h6.30pm-2am Mon-Sat)
Owned by a Costa Rican, Pura Vida brings a dash of laid-back Caribbean attitude to the heart of Poblacion, with occasional reggae bands, arroz con camarones (rice with prawns), mojitos and a decidedly global crowd lapping it all up. Downstairs is Polilya (MAP GOOGLE MAP; h6.30pm-2am Tue-Sun; W), the uber-classy new taproom of craft brewer Engkanto.
Z RoofdeckBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 5660 Don Pedro St, Poblacion, Makati; h5pm-late)
There’s no doubt where the top backpacker party spot is in Manila. Z Hostel’s roof deck draws hot local and foreign DJ talent and is popular with locals and expats too. Happy hour (5pm to 8pm Monday to Thursday) brings P58 local beers – purchase credit on an RFID bracelet to pay for your drinks.
Tap StationBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Forbestown Rd, BGC; h5pm-late)
A happening, down-to-earth craft-beer specialist nestled in an open-air nook near Burgos Circle. There are 25 beers on tap (P225 to P295), including a few Belgian varieties. Happy hour (6pm to 9pm) means two-for-one on the house pilsner. It’s related to Tap Station (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Adriatico St cnr Padre Faura St, Ermita; 330ml beer P120-200; h5pm-2am Mon-Sat, to 11pm Sun) in Malate but has a much larger beer selection.
Erra’s Vest Ramen in TownBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 1755 Adriatico St, Malate; h24hr)
SocialBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Ebro St, Poblacion, Makati; h5pm-2am)
A new concept for Manila’s trendiest bar district, the Social is a mini food-park infused with pumping beats and centred around a bar that specialises in reasonably priced craft beer. There are pizza and Indian food eateries on the premises, but the focus is on music and drinking and it can really rock on weekends.
Joe’s BrewBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Mathilde St cnr Jacobo St, Poblacion, Makati; h5pm-1am Tue-Sun)
This minute space is the taproom of one of Manila’s leading craft brewers. Try the Fish Rider Pale Ale accompanied by brisket or poutine (French-Canadian dish of chips with gravy) from the attached Holy Smokes smoke house.
3Entertainment
It’s worth making it up to Quezon City one evening for quality live music. The Cultural Center of the Philippines (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-832 1125; www.culturalcenter.gov.ph; CCP Complex, Roxas Blvd, Pasay; performance prices vary; hbox office 9am-6pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun performance days) jn Pasay is the place for theatre and classical music. Manila is quickly becoming a major international gambling destination; the casino zone is on reclaimed land in Parañaque.
oSaGuijoLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-897 8629; www.facebook.com/saGuijo.Cafe.Bar.Events; 7612 Guijo St, Makati; admission after 10pm incl one drink P150-200; h6pm-2am)
A wonderfully decrepit dive bar with a jam-packed roster of indie, punk and new-wave bands that kick off at 10.30pm. Check Facebook for the schedule.
oHobbit HouseLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.hobbithousemanila.com; 1212 MH del Pilar St, Ermita; admission P150-175; h5pm-2am; W)
This quality blues bar has been attracting some of Manila’s finest musos since 1973. Beloved American founder Jim Turner passed away in 2016, leaving the bar in the hands of his height-challenged staff. Also has an impressive imported and craft-beer selection.
GAY & LESBIAN MANILA
Manila is very gay-friendly. The traditional gay-and-lesbian centre is Malate, although the best gay clubs have migrated to Ortigas, Quezon City.
Nectar (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0917 542 8831; The Fort Strip, 5th Ave, BGC; P500; h10pm-4am Tue-Sat) Positioned in the heart of the Fort, this is Manila’s top LGTB nightclub.
O Bar (MAP; %02-584 1626, 0919 996 4154; Julia Vargas Ave, Ortigas; admission incl 3 beers P400-500; h10pm-6am Wed-Sun) Gay-friendly O Bar has an infamous drag show.
Che’lu (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 1802 Maria Orosa St, Malate; h9pm-4am, to 6am Thu-Sat) Long-running club with cheap drinks.
FAB/The Library (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-522 2484; www.thelibrary.com.ph; 1739 M Orosa St, Malate) Two gay clubs under one roof with comedy and live music.
7Shopping
Huge malls such as Mall of Asia (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Manila Bay, Pasay; h10am-10pm) and Greenbelt (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Ayala Centre, Makati; h11am-9pm) stock everything imaginable in air-con comfort.
oSilahis Arts & ArtifactsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 744 General Luna St, Intramuros; h10am-7pm) This is almost more of a cultural centre than a shop. Intricately woven baskets, wooden Ifugao bulol statues for guarding rice, textiles and other crafts from around the country are sold next to beautiful antiques. Upstairs Tradewinds Books (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 744 General Luna St, Intramuros; h10am-7pm)
specialises in Philippine history, culture and biography.
8Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Metro Manila has several large private hospitals that are gaining traction for medical tourism.
Makati Medical Center (%02-888 8999; www.makatimed.net.ph; 2 Amorsolo St, Makati)
Manila Doctors Hospital (MAP; %02-558 0888; www.maniladoctors.com.ph; 667 United Nations Ave, Ermita)
St Luke’s Medical Center (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-789 7700, emergency 02-789 7810; www.stluke.com.ph; 32nd St, BGC) Metro Manila’s most modern hospital. Also in Quezon City (MAP; %02-723 0101, emergency 02-727 2328; 279 E Rodriguez Sr Ave, Quezon City).
WORTH A TRIP
VOLCANO TREKKING
You don’t have to go far out of Manila to find adventure. Head 60km south to the cool hill town of Tagaytay, with spectacular views over Taal Lake and the island Taal Volcano (adult/child P50/100; h6am-6pm). Charter a bangka to the volcano itself, which can be climbed in just 45 minutes. Many hostels in Manila arrange day tours here, or stay overnight at Tagaytay Garden Mountain Breeze (%0977-816 0773; 730 Calamba Rd; dm/d/tr P450/1000/1400).
Another popular tour is a 4WD ride (followed by a two-hour climb) to the stunning emerald crater lake of Mt Pinatubo, site of a cataclysmic volcanic eruption in 1991. The mountain is a couple of hours’ drive north of Manila and tours leave at around 4.30am. Otherwise stay a night at Alvin & Angie Mt Pinatubo Guesthouse (%0929 249 0865, 0919 861 4102; www.mt-pinatubo.weebly.com; Santa Juliana; dm P350-500, s/d incl breakfast P1000/1200; aW) in Santa Juliana.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Department of Tourism Information Centre (MAP GOOGLE MAP; DOT; %02-459 5200; www.visitmyphilippines.com; JB Bldg, 351 Sen Gil Puyat Ave, Makati; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat) The tourism office has helpful staff, city maps and information for trips around Manila. There are also smaller DOT offices at the various Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA) terminals.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Filipino Travel Center (MAP; %02-528 4507; www.filipinotravel.com.ph; cnr Adriatico & Pedro Gil Sts, Malate; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) Catering to foreign tourists, this helpful and knowledgable agency organises city tours and day tours around Manila and beyond. It can also do visa extensions and buy advance bus tickets to Banaue.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
All international flights in and out of Manila use one of the three main terminals (Terminal 1, Terminal 2, Terminal 3) of Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila’s south, while many domestic flights use a fourth, domestic, terminal (Terminal 4). For more information see the Transport chapter.
BOAT
The flashy Manila North Harbor Port (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-588 9000; www.mnhport.com.ph; Piers 4 & 6, Tondo), northwest of Binondo, is the departure and arrival point for all domestic ferry travel. The South Harbor is now used for cargo and international cruise ships.
It’s best to take a taxi to/from North Harbor, as Tondo district isn’t a place for a foreigner to be wandering around with luggage, and public transport routes are complicated.
2GO Travel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-528 7000; http://travel.2go.com.ph; Pier 4, Manila North Harbor Port) is the major shipping line handling inter-island boat trips from Manila. It has an excellent website for checking schedules and reserving tickets. Tickets can be purchased online, and through travel agents, major malls or its main branch in Rizal Park (MAP; The Hub @ Kilometer Zero, Rizal Park). For ferries to Caticlan (for Boracay), you’ll need to head to Batangas pier.
Atienza Shipping Lines (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0999 881 7266; 1st St, cnr Muelle de Tacoma, Tondo) has ferries to Coron town, Palawan, Tuesday at 8pm and on Thursday and Saturday at 4pm (P1000 to P1150, 16 hours). Atienza also sails to El Nido on Friday at 4pm (P1700 to P1850, 25 hours) via Linapacan in the southern Calamian Islands.
BUS
Getting out of Manila by bus is harder than you might expect, as there is no central bus terminal. Instead, many private operators serve specific destinations from their own terminals.
The two main ‘clusters’ of terminals are known as Cubao, which is in Quezon City near the corner of EDSA and Aurora Blvd; and Pasay, which is along EDSA near the LRT/MRT interchange at Pasay Rotunda (MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr EDSA & Taft Ave).
Two harder-to-reach clusters are Sampaloc, north of Quiapo near the University of Santo Tomas (UST); and Caloocan in the far north of Metro Manila.
Wherever you are heading, it’s worth paying a little extra for buses that take the modern expressways heading north and south out of Manila. Getting stuck on a ‘local’ bus could add several hours to your trip.
Better yet, shoot for the comfortable 27-seat ‘deluxe’ express and/or sleeper buses that serve major Luzon hubs including Baguio, Vigan, Laoag, Tuguegarao, Naga and Legazpi. It’s recommended to book these, and the direct night buses to Banaue, a day or more ahead.
BUSES FROM MANILA
| DESTINATION | DURATION (HR) | PRICE (P) | COMPANY | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Baguio | 4-7 | air-con/deluxe 450/750 | Genesis, Victory Liner (Cubao, Pasay) | frequent |
| Banaue | 8-9 | 490-530 | Florida (seasonal), Ohayami | 2-4 night buses |
| Batangas | 2-2½ | 170 | Ceres, DLTB, Jam | every 20 mins |
| Clark Airport | 2-3 | 350 | Philtranco | 8 daily |
| Dau (Angeles) | 1½-2½ | 139-150 | Victory Liner, many others | frequent |
| Legazpi | 10-12 | 850-1100 | Amihan, Bicol Isarog, Cagsawa, DLTB, Philtranco | mostly night buses |
| Sagada (via Banaue) | 11 | 720-980 | Coda Lines | 8pm & 9pm |
| Tagaytay | 3 | 83-92 | BSC San Agustin, DLTB | every 30 mins |
| Vigan | 8-11 | air-con/deluxe 550/850 | Dominion, Partas | hourly |
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
As there are no direct public transport routes from any of the four terminals to Malate or Makati, bite the bullet and take a taxi, especially if you have a bit of luggage. The airport is quite close to the city and, barring traffic, you can get to Malate or Makati by taxi in 20 minutes. Uber is also a good option from the airport.
The ‘Airport Loop’ shuttle bus takes you to Pasay Rotunda in Baclaran (P20, every 20 minutes), from where you can find onward public transport (taxi, jeepney or MRT/LRT). At the three main terminals, walk straight and then to the right for Airport Loop buses.
JEEPNEY
Heading south from Quiapo Church, jeepneys to ‘Baclaran’ pass City Hall, then traverse Ermita/Malate along MH del Pilar St, continue close to the CCP, cross EDSA and end up at the Baclaran LRT stop. From Quiapo Church you can also take ‘Kalaw’ jeepneys to Ermita.
Heading north from Baclaran, jeepneys pass along Mabini St or Taft Ave, heading off in various directions from Manila City Hall.
LRT & MRT
The LRT and MRT trains are an excellent way to soar over and past traffic. Unfortunately, coverage of the city is far from comprehensive, and they are basically unusable at rush hour, when hour-long lines are common. If you do manage to get on a train, it can be a tight squeeze to say the least, and pickpocketing is common.
The LRT (Light Rail Transit) has two elevated lines. The LRT-1 runs from Monumento in the north to Baclaran in the south, interchanging with the MRT at the corner of EDSA and Taft Ave near Pasay Rotunda. The LRT-2 runs from Recto in the west to Santolan in the east, interchanging with the MRT in Cubao.
The MRT (Metro Rail Transit) travels a south–north route along EDSA. It is handy for getting to and from the Ayala Centre in Makati and to Quezon City.
Fares are P12 to P15, depending on distance. Transferring between train lines means leaving the station and lining up anew for another ticket. ‘Stored-value’ cards are a good idea if you’re going to be using the trains a lot, but these can be hard to find.
The Cordillera
To many travellers, North Luzon is simply the Cordillera. These spiny mountains, which top out at around 2900m, are beloved, worshipped and feared in equal doses by those who witness them and those who live among them.
The tribes of the Cordillera, collectively known as the Igorot, have distinct traditions that have survived both Spanish and American occupation and that add a culturally rich dimension to the already bounteous attractions of the region. Banaue’s renowned rice terraces have been dubbed ‘the eighth wonder of the world’, while lesser-known but no less spectacular terraces exist throughout Ifugao, Mountain Province and Kalinga. Rice terraces aside, the mountains throw down the gauntlet to hikers, bikers, cavers and other fresh-air fiends.
Baguio
%074 / Pop 345,370 / Elev 1540m
This is the Philippine’s upland, pine-clad retreat from the heat and dust of the lowlands, albeit not a very tranquil one. Baguio (bah-gee-oh) is a university town that boasts one of the Philippines’ largest student populations (250,000), and is also a crossroads between hill-tribe culture and lowland settlers. For most travellers, Baguio serves as the primary gateway to backpacker bliss up north in Sagada, Banaue and Kalinga.
1Sights & Activities
oBenCab MuseumMUSEUM
(www.bencabmuseum.org; Km 6 Asin Rd, Tadiangan; adult/student P120/100; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This superb museum dedicated to the life, times and work of artist Benedicto Reyes Cabrera (BenCab) is as fascinating as the man himself. The gallery is a mix of high glass panes that slant light into modern art colonnades offset by walls of traditional animist wood carvings, bulol (sacred wood figures), psychedelic works by Leonard Aguinaldo and ceremonial hagabi (carved wooden benches).
oSt Louis University MuseumMUSEUM
(Magsaysay Ave; h8am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Sat)F
This campus museum is run by Isekias ‘Ike’ Picpican, one of the country’s foremost authorities on the history and culture of the Cordillera people. You can spend hours examining weapons, funereal artefacts, tribal costumes, musical instruments such as the nose flute, woodcarvings, and photographs of various rituals and sacrifices, but it helps if Ike is around to explain their context.
Tam-awan VillageARTS CENTRE
(%074-446 2949, 0921 588 3131; www.tam-awanvillage.com; Long-Long Rd, Pinsao; adult/student P50/30, workshops per person P450; h8am-6pm) S
Nine traditional Ifugao homes and two Kalinga huts were taken apart then reassembled on the side of a hill at this artists colony. Spending the night in one of these huts (single/double P500/P1000) is a rare treat. You can participate in art workshops, learn dream-catcher or bead making, and enjoy indigenous music and dance demonstrations.
4Sleeping & Eating
Upstairs Bed & BathHOSTEL$
(%074-446 4687; www.upstairsbedandbath.com; GSP Bldg, Leonard Wood Rd; dm P400, d P1200-1600; iW)
This place just southeast of SM Mall has 90 beds spread over a variety of spotless dorm rooms. Note, the four-bed dorms cost the same as the 20-bed dorms. There’s no kitchen and the common spaces aren’t super-inviting but the rest is a win.
Baguio Village InnGUESTHOUSE$
(%074-442 3901; 355 Magsaysay Ave; s/d from P400/750; W)
Beyond the Slaughterhouse Terminal, this warm and inviting backpacker special is reminiscent of cosy pinewood guesthouses in Sagada. Rooms in the new annex at the back are pricier but quieter.
Mile Hi InnHOSTEL$$
(%074-446 6141; Mile Hi Center, Loacan Rd; dm/d/tr P650/2300/2700; W)
Mile Hi’s motto is ‘clean, cosy, comfy’, and frankly it would be hard to argue with that. Located in Camp John Hay’s duty-free shopping centre, it has simple, tiled, four-bed dorm rooms and golden-hued doubles.
Oh My Gulay!VEGETARIAN$
(%0939 912 7266; 4th fl, La Azotea Bldg, Session Rd; mains P130-155; h11am-8pm Tue-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, to 7pm Sun & Mon; v)
Step into an enchanted, multi-level garden, with wooden carvings, plants, bridges, water features and little nooks to hide in. The delicious vegetarian menu tempts with veggie burgers, open-faced sandwiches, salads, omelettes, pastas and more. Mediterranean flavours dominate. It’s a bit hard to find on the 4th floor of the La Azotea Building (and there’s no sign).
oCafe by the Ruins DuaFUSION$$
(%074-442 4010; 225 Upper Sessions Rd; P120-380; h7am-9pm; Wv)
The clean white, vaguely colonial decor makes one of North Luzon’s best meals taste even swankier. Local specialities such as carabao (water buffalo) cheese, etag (smoked pork), mountain rice and jackfruit are woven into a seasonal menu inspired by dishes from around the world. Live music and poetry readings pop up on occasion and there’s an all-round intellectual, bohemian vibe.
MUMMIES OF KABAYAN
A road heading north out of Baguio for 50km leads to picturesque Kabayan, the site of several caves containing eerie mummies entombed centuries ago by the Ibaloi people. Some of these caves can be visited, while others are known only to Ibaloi elders. Even if mummified mortal remains aren’t your thing, Kabayan is a great place to hike around the dramatically sloped rice terraces and marvel at the star-filled night sky.
6Drinking & Entertainment
Baguio Craft BreweryMICROBREWERY
(Palispis (Marcos) Hwy; h5pm-2am; W)
Baguio’s entry on the ever-growing ledger of Philippine craft-brew houses is worth the mild slog out of the centre. You’ll be rewarded by around 20 different types of expertly crafted beers (from P160), fine mountain views from the rooftop terrace, and toothsome wings, fish tacos and other bar snacks (mains P300 to P350).
18 BCLIVE MUSIC
(16 Legarda Rd; h6.30pm-late)
In a city where live music seemingly wafts out of every window, this dive opposite Prince Plaza Hotel consistently features Baguio’s best original live music, from jazz and blues to reggae. Annoyingly, no shorts or flip-flops allowed.
7Shopping
Baguio is a shopping mecca where you can pick up all manner of indigenous crafts, from antique bulol (sacred wood figures) to all manner of traditional weaving, baskets, silver, Kalinga spears and mass-produced, glossy woodcarvings. Check out the city market (Magsaysay Ave; h6am-7pm) for souvenirs.
8Information
Cordillera Regional Tourist Office (%074-442 7014; Governor Pack Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Information on tours and treks throughout the Cordillera, and maps of town.
8Getting There & Away
The nonstop, 25-seater buses run by Victory Liner (%074-619 0000; Utility Rd) to Pasay (P750, five hours, one to five daily) are a quick and comfortable option. Just as nice are the 29-seater Joybuses run by Genesis (%074-422 7763; Governor Pack Rd) that run both to Pasay (P730, six hours, frequent) and Cubao (Manila; P720, six hours, frequent). All these buses take the fast SCTEX (Subic–Clark–Tarlac Expressway). Victory and Genesis also have slower buses to Manila about every 20 minutes (P455, seven hours); Victory accepts credit cards.
Lizardo Trans (%074-304 5994) has hourly trips to Sagada (P250, five to seven hours) departing from 6am to 1pm from the Dangwa Terminal (Magsaysay Ave), and four buses to Baler (P312 to P360, eight hours) via San Jose departing from 4am and 1pm from the Slaughterhouse Terminal (Magsaysay Ave).
Ohayami (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Shanum St) and KMS (Shanum St) each have daily trips to Banaue (P490, nine to 11 hours) along the paved southern route, via San Jose, departing around 7am and from 6pm or 7pm. A faster way to Banaue is to take a direct air-con van from the Dangwa terminal (P360, seven hours) via Ambuklao Rd.
Sagada
%074 / Pop 1670 / Elev 1477m
Sitting among mist-shrouded mountains, tiny Sagada is the closest thing the Philippines has to a Southeast Asian backpacker mecca. Still, it’s possible to find tranquillity along its many hiking trails and get your adrenalin pumping on adventures in the depths of its caves. There’s a mystical element to this village, a former refuge for intelligentsia fleeing dictatorship. Sagada’s most popular attractions are the Echo Valley Hanging Coffins: some are centuries old, while others are only a few years old. Most are high up the sheer rock face, leading you to wonder how this was originally done. It’s a short trek (P200) of less than half an hour to get down to the coffins via the trail that runs by the cemetery, but people do get lost without a guide.
Perhaps the best local tour is the thrilling Cave Connection (P800; 3-4 hrs) underground adventure, which links the Samaging and Lumiang caves, while Sagada Outdoors (%0919 698 8361; www.sagadaoutdoors.com; rafting trips per person from P2500) runs rafting-season trips between September and December. There are numerous hikes to local mountains and waterfalls.
If you’re lucky, your visit will coincide with a begnas (traditional Kankanay community celebration), when women wear tapis (woven wraparound skirts) and older men don G-strings and gather in the dap-ay (outdoor patio).
4Sleeping & Eating
oMisty Lodge & CafeLODGE$
(%0926 123 5186; mistylodgeandcafe@rocketmail.com; r without bathroom per person P300; W)
It’s definitely worth the 15-minute walk east out of town to stay (or dine) at this gem. The eight rooms are sizeable and swathed in radiant blond wood, and the owner is a fountain of smiles and helpful information. A fireplace crackles in the cafe, where you can enjoy gourmet pizzas, real Australian beef burgers, good wine, coffees and desserts.
Canaway ResthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0918 291 5063; r per person P300; W)
You’ll find exceptional-value, bright, big rooms here, with friendly service, clean sheets and reliable hot showers in the attached bathrooms. Wi-fi comes and goes.
Green HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0999 903 7675; r per person P200; W)
Not only is this about the cheapest guesthouse we’ve found here, but it’s also one of the warmest and quietest, set up on the hill over the south road. The simple rooms have plenty of rustic charm.
Bana’s CafeCAFE$
(mains P100-170; h6.30am-8pm; Wv)
Oriented towards trekkers, Bana’s specialises in coffee, omelettes and delicious home-made yoghurt. Its narrow balcony overlooks a gorge and catches the morning sun.
Gaia CafeVEGETARIAN$
(mains P125-175; h7am-7pm; v)
Hidden in the woods 1.6km south of the centre past the Lumiang Cave entrance, Gaia serves locally sourced vegan fare (plus a few egg dishes) amid pine trees and with a view of rice terraces. It’s easily the most pleasant setting for a meal in Sagada, and the food is good enough to please carnivores as long as no one’s too hungry.
oSagada BrewFUSION$$
(meals P200; v)
All clean lines, floor-to-ceiling glass and blond-wood furnishings, Sagada Brew strives to be the most sophisticated cafe in the village, which it does well. Stuffed peppers sit alongside rosemary pepper chicken and waffles on its diverse menu. You may find yourself lingering over a freshly brewed coffee or beautifully steeped wild herb tea – it’s that kind of place.
oLog CabinINTERNATIONAL$$
(%0915 671 7949; mains P190-290; h6-9pm)
One of Sagada’s many wonderful surprises is this aptly named restaurant that feels like a cosy ski lodge, with a roaring log fire and a fleece-clad foreign crowd. Treat yourself to the likes of roast meats with local vegies or pasta, complemented by a short wine list. Place your order before 3pm during peak season, and always reserve in advance.
Yoghurt HouseFUSION$$
(snacks P100, mains P160-240; h8am-8.30pm; v)
Enjoy your banana pancake out on the balcony at breakfast; get some of the great oatmeal cookies to go; or linger over pasta and chunky sandwiches on home-made bread or baguettes. If you’ve been craving veggies, the tangy yoghurt sauce is the best thing in town to top the locally grown, seasonal crop.
8Information
Sagada Genuine Guides Association (SAGGAS; %0916 559 9050; www.saggas.org) Head here for help with serious hikes.
Tourist Information Center (Municipal Building; h7am-5pm) Pay your P35 environmental fee here. Rates are fixed for guides and private jeepney hire.
8Getting There & Away
Jeepneys run hourly to Bontoc (P45, one hour); the last one leaves at 1pm. GL Lizardo (Sagada Public Market) has hourly buses to Baguio (P250, seven hours) until 1pm.
Coda Lines (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0929 521 3247; Sagada Public Market) runs a bus to Manila (P720, 13 hours) via Banaue at 2pm.
One direct van to Banaue leaves daily at around 1pm. Otherwise connect in Bontoc for more transport to Banaue.
Bontoc
%074 / Pop 3790 / Elev 900m
Bustling Bontoc is one of the most important market towns and transport hubs in the Cordillera. It’s an excellent place to arrange a guide if you’re looking to get out to the rice terraces of Maligcong and Mainit or stay in the former headhunter villages of Kalinga, so you’ll likely find yourself staying a day or two. Today you can still glimpse the occasional elderly woman with tattooed arms and snake vertebrae headgear or elderly men wearing a traditional G-string, particularly during the Lang-Ay Festival in the first week of April, when locals parade through the streets wearing traditional clothing.
At the wonderful Bontoc Museum (P70; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Sat), powerful black-and-white photos are interspersed with indigenous art, representing each of the region’s main tribes. You may spot Kalinga headhunter axes, gansa (gong) handles made with human jawbones, and fanitan (baskets used for carrying severed heads).
Churya-a Hotel & Restaurant (%0999 994 6726; Halsema Hwy; d without bathroom P300, d/tr with bathroom from P700/1000; W) is a centrally located guesthouse with a social common area and cafe overlooking the main street. Friendly Anayah’s (Halsema Hwy; P60-135; h7am-7pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat; v) offers local dishes jazzed up with additional vegetables and flair.
Jeepneys depart every hour to Sagada (P60, one hour) from 8am to 5.30pm. Jeepneys to Banaue leave when full, usually around noon (P150). D’Rising Sun has hourly buses to Baguio (P240, six hours) from 5.30am until 4pm.
Banaue
%074 / Pop 1390 / Elev 1200m
Hemmed in on all sides by dramatic rice terraces, Banaue is directly accessible from Manila and can sometimes get overwhelmed by visitors. It’s hard to blame them: the local mud-walled rice terraces are pleasingly different from the stone-walled terraces in most of the Cordillera. World Heritage listed, they’re impressive not only for their chiselled beauty but because they were introduced around 2000 years ago by the Chinese.
Museum of Cordillera Sculpture (P100; h8am-6pm) showcases an excellent collection of Ifugao woodcarvings, and what a collection it is. There are fine examples of ritual objects and antique bulol.
4Sleeping & Eating
oBanaue HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0920 278 7328, 0929 197 4242; www.banauehomestay.weebly.com; d P600-1200; W)
Staying at this spotless, homey guesthouse up from the main town is like staying with family. You get to know your fellow guests and get plenty of individual attention and advice; the views from the rooms are splendid; and the meals rival anything you’ll sample elsewhere in Banaue. Very popular year-round; book well in advance.
Randy’s Brookside InnGUESTHOUSE$
(%0917 577 2010; r per person incl breakfast P250; W)
Not only is Randy a great and knowledgeable host whose brain you may wish to pick about all things Banaue, but he runs a ship-shape guesthouse with some of the cheapest rooms in town, and throws in a free breakfast.
7th Heaven’sGUESTHOUSE$
(%0908 467 4854; d P1000)
Located 500m up the road from the main town, 7th Heaven’s has rooms that are basic but clean and cheery. Each has its own bathroom outside the rooms, not en suite. Angle for a room with a view! The wonderful cafe (open from 7am to 8pm) has the best views in town.
8Information
Banaue Tourist Information Center (%0906 770 7969; h5.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun) Manages a network of accredited guides and maintains the definitive list of guide and private-transport prices to selected locations. Guides average P1200 for full-day hikes.
8Getting There & Away
Ohayami buses depart at 6.30pm and 7pm for Manila (P490, nine hours) via Cubao. It’s a P25 tricycle ride from the Ohayami bus station to the town centre. Dangwa (%0918 522 5049; www.phbus.com/florida-bus) also runs a more comfortable bus to Manila (P530, nine hours) departing at 8pm in high season only. The earliest Manila-bound bus of the day is the 5pm Coda Lines (P490, nine hours).
If you prefer daytime travel, take a frequent jeepney to Lagawe (P40, one hour), then another to Solano (P80, 1¼ hours), and from there catch a frequent Manila (Sampaloc)-bound bus (P355, seven hours).
For Baguio, Ohayami has a 5am departure and Coda Lines a 6pm (both P430, eight hours). Vans also run to Baguio from the main square between 7am and 1pm, and there’s an unreliable 5pm departure (P415, eight hours).
Batad
%074 / Pop 1150
Given the proliferation of hugely picturesque rice terraces all over the Cordillera, winning the ‘best terrace’ competition is no mean feat. While these particular rice terraces are not necessarily the most beautiful, it’s difficult not to gawp in awe when you reach the ridge overlooking Batad’s ‘amphitheatre’ of rice, because as far as stages go, it’s certainly very dramatic.
This backpacker hot spot is for now only accessible on foot (hence the lack of crowds from Manila), but this may soon change, as a road towards the village is being paved. If Batad is too ‘on the beaten track’, you can also escape to remoter surrounding villages such as Pula and Kambulo.
There are many hikes in the area, and the Banaue Tourist Information Center or any guide can recommend longer treks. Good options include the 40-minute trek to Tappia Waterfall or the 2½-hour hike to Bangaan with its Unesco rice terraces and some fantastic vistas en route.
Mobile phone reception barely reaches Batad, and most of its guesthouses usually cannot be contacted by phone. Most lodgings are on the ridge overlooking the rice terraces, and are nicer, breezier places to stay than the options in the village proper below. Try Hiker’s Homestay (%0939 6357 055; Cambulo; r per person P250) or Batad Pension & Restaurant (%0918 964 3368; r per person P250).
8Getting There & Away
From Banaue, it’s 12km to Batad junction, where a beautifully paved road runs right up to the ‘saddle’ high above Batad and continues towards the village. From the end of the paved road, it’s a 20-minute hike downhill to Batad. Work on the road paving continues at a slow pace, and will eventually link to the village, so walking time may decrease in future.
The easiest and most popular method to get to Batad is to hire a tricycle in Banaue; get it to drop you at the end of the paved road and have it pick you up again at a set time when you plan to leave (P1400 return trip). You can organise a tricycle at the Banaue Tourist Information Center the moment you step off your bus in Banaue (during daylight hours).
Another option is to take the jeepney that heads from Banaue to Batad Saddle at 3pm (P150). From there you’ll have to walk 40 minutes to the village. To return to Banaue, the same jeepney runs from Batad Saddle at 9am.
Vigan
%077 / Pop 53,880
One of the oldest towns in the Philippines, Vigan is a Spanish Colonial fairy tale of dark-wood mansions, cobblestoned streets and clattering kalesa (horse-drawn carriages). In fact, it is the finest surviving example of a Spanish Colonial town in Asia and a Unesco World Heritage Site. But outside of well-restored Crisologo St (closed to vehicular traffic) and a few surrounding blocks, it’s also a noisy Filipino town like many others. In the places where history feels alive, you can smell the aroma of freshly baked empanadas wafting past antique shops, explore pottery collectives and watch sunlight flicker off capiz-shell windows.
Vigan weavers are known for using abel, a locally produced cotton fabric, to hand-weave shawls, tablecloths, napkins and barong (traditional Filipino shirts). You can watch abel hand-weavers in action at Rowilda’s Weaving Factory or Cristy’s Loom Weaving.
High-quality binakol (blankets), including some antique blankets from nearby Abra Province, are for sale at many shops lining Crisologo St.
4Sleeping & Eating
The Ilocos region of the Cordillera is known for its food, and local specialities include pinakbét (mixed vegetable stew), bagnet (deep-fried pork knuckle) and poqui-poqui (a roasted eggplant dish).
Henady InnHOTEL$
(%077-722 8001; National Hwy; dm P250, d P800-1375; a)
Out on the highway right where the buses drop you off, the Henady has four-bed dorms that will please those on a budget and/or early-morning arrivals looking for a few extra hours of shut-eye.
oVilla AngelaHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(%077-722 2914; 26 Quirino Blvd; d/q incl breakfast from P1600/3800; aW)
This hotel is more than 135 years old and retains every morsel of its old-world charm. The spacious rooms, fabulous antique furniture – which includes wooden harps and king-sized nara-wood canopy beds – and colonial-style lounge were good enough for Tom Cruise and Willem Dafoe when filming Born on the Fourth of July near Vigan in 1989.
oLilong & Lilang RestaurantILOCANO$
(Hidden Garden; %077-722-1450; www.hiddengardenvigan.com; Barangay Bulala; mains P40-120; hnoon-9pm)
Nestled at the heart of lush gardens crossed with a nature trail, this thatched-roofed, plant-festooned restaurant is a great bet for Ilocano dishes such as Vigan empanadas, poqui-poqui (a roasted eggplant dish), warek-warek (pork innards with mayo) and the more conventional bagnet, pinakbét and mega fruit shakes. During busy weekends it has set meals only (P180) and you’ll have to queue.
Street StallsSTREET FOOD$
(Plaza Burgos; snacks P50)
For quick, cheap Ilocano fare, check out the collection of street stalls that lines Florentino St along Plaza Burgos. These specialise in local empanadas filled with cabbage, green papaya and longganisa (sausage); okoy (deep-fried shrimp omelettes) and sinanglao (beef soup).
8Information
Ilocos Sur Tourism Information Centre (%077-722 8520; www.ilocossur.gov.ph; 1 Crisologo St; h8am-noon & 1-5pm) Highly informative staffers give out maps of Vigan in the ancestral home of poet Leona Florentino.
8Getting There & Away
Buses to Manila (P700, nine hours) are plentiful. Try Dominion Bus Lines (%077-722 2084; cnr Liberation Blvd & Quezon Ave) to Cubao and Sampaloc, or Partas (%077-722 3369; Alcantara St) to Cubao and Pasay. Partas has three nightly 29-seat deluxe express buses (P805, eight hours), as well as frequent buses to Laoag (P165, two hours), a daily bus to Pagudpud (P245, five hours) and buses to Baguio (P334, five to seven hours, three daily). It also runs buses south to San Fernando (La Union; P235, four hours).
Bicol
The Bicol region, in Southeast Luzon, is famous among Filipinos for its spicy food, while among travellers it’s best known for its active volcanoes and the whale sharks of Donsol.
Legazpi
%052 / Pop 196,560
Legazpi is a pleasant enough harbour city but its real claim to fame is its location at the foot of spectacular active Mt Mayon (2462m), and its proximity to Donsol. The nearby suburb of Albay is a better place to stay than the city proper, while easy half-day trips to Daraga Church (Santa Maria St; h5am-6pm) and the Cagsawa Church & Ruins (adult/child P20/10; h6am-7.30pm) should definitely be on the to-do list. Cagsawa is popular for ATV (quad bike) tours around the foot of Mt Mayon.
Mayon is visible from many places in and around the city; for the best views head up to Ligñon Hill (%0922 883 6722; P25; h5am-10pm) or to Daraga and Cagsawa.
MT MAYON
The perfect cone of Mt Mayon (2462m), the Philippines’ most active volcano, rises dramatically from the flat Albay terrain and has been responsible for over 40 deadly eruptions since 1616.
The summit of Mt Mayon is presently off limits to climbers, but at the time of writing it was possible to trek to Camp 2 (1400m) and beyond to ‘Rabbit’s Ear’ at around 1750m. A guide for a Mayon hiking package costs from P6000 for a two-day climb and P4500 for a one-day climb. This fee covers all food, transport, gear and porters: Bicol Adventure ATV (%0919 228 7064, 0917 571 4357; www.bicoladventureatv.com) and Your Brother Travel & Tours (%052-742 9871; www.mayonatvtour.com; Pawa Rd; ATV tours P599-4000) can arrange guides, equipment and transport.
4Sleeping
Head about 3km west of Legazpi City for the best of the accommodation.
oMayon Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$
(%052-742 2613; http://mayonbackpackers.wordpress.com; Diego Silang St; dm with fan/air-con P350/450, d/q P1200/1400; aiW)
The only legitimate hostel in Legazpi is clearly the top budget choice, with cramped but comfy four-, six- and eight-bed dorm rooms with en suite and lockers, and a few highly sought-after private rooms in a separate building. There’s a basic common kitchen and free breakfast is served in the upstairs dining room. Good views of Mt Mayon from the tiny rooftop area.
Legazpi Tourist InnINN$
(%052-480 6147; legazpitouristinn@yahoo.com.ph; V&O Bldg, Quezon Ave; s/d with fan P600/700, with air-con P1200/1400; aW)
The 3rd-floor Tourist Inn is the best of the budget places in Legazpi City, with cramped but clean rooms with private bathrooms, TVs and lots of mirrors. The attached Veranda Cafe (7am to 7pm) makes up for a lack of common areas.
oBalai Tinay GuesthouseB&B$$
(%0917 841 3051, 052-742 3366; http://balaitinay.weebly.com; 70 Gapo St; d/tr/f incl breakfast P1500/2000/3000; aW)
This welcome family-run oasis of peace sits on a quiet little street in Albay and is easily the best midrange guesthouse around. The eight compact en-suite rooms are spotless and the tranquil common areas are great for meeting other guests. Naturally there’s a balcony for Mayon viewing. Head right along the riverside path from Albay Central School.
5Eating & Drinking
Legazpi has some of the best Bicolano food in the region. Must-try dishes include pinangat (taro leaves wrapped around minced fish or pork), ‘Bicol expréś’ (spicy minced pork dish), laing (a leafy green vegetable) and pili nuts mixed with minuscule, red-hot sili peppers.
The best place for a sunset or evening drink is the collection of ramshackle restaurants and bars lining the seafront south of the city centre along Legazpi Blvd.
oChachi’s InnINDIAN$
(%0977 429 6379; Tandang Sora St; mains P90-250; hnoon-9pm)
The simplicity of this little kitchen-dining room with plastic chairs belies the quality of the Indian cooking. Friendly hosts Cecil and Doris chat with guests while preparing authentic North Indian dishes such as butter chicken, palak paneer and even kulfi (Indian ice cream). Highly recommended.
oSmalltalk CafeBICOLANO$$
(Doña Aurora St; mains P120-290; h11.30am-10pm; aWv)
This quaint little Albay eatery defines the notion of Bicol-fusion cooking and draws in travellers and locals like a tractor beam. The menu covers ‘small talk’, ‘big talk’ and, of course, ‘sweet talk’. Consider the Bicol exprés pasta, the Mayon stuffed pizza or paella Valencia. Save room for the pili-nut pie or the apocalyptic Red Hot Lava: with sili ice cream.
oWaway AlbayBICOLANO$$
(cnr Balintawak St & Gov Locsin St; buffet P250; h10.30am-2pm & 5.30-9pm; a) The newly opened Albay branch of Legazpi’s longstanding favourite buffet (%052-480 8415; Peñaranda St)
is a good deal classier than the original, and conveniently located in central Albay. Come for the excellent Bicolano dishes served buffet-style and enjoy the contemporary dining room. Large groups sometimes book it out on weekends.
8Information
Provincial Tourism Office (%052-481 0250; www.albay.gov.ph; Aquende Dr; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Adjacent to the Astrodome Complex in Albay.
8Getting There & Away
Cebu Pacific and PAL each fly at least once daily to/from Manila (1¼ hours).
From the Legazpi Grand Central Terminal (Terminal Rd; h24hr), overnight air-con and deluxe services to Manila (around P800 to P1100, 12 to 15 hours) depart between 6.30pm and 8.30pm. ‘Ordinary’ (non air-con) buses depart throughout the day, both to Manila (P500) and to local destinations such as Sorsogon and Tabaco. Frequent minivans run during daylight hours to Donsol (P75, 1¼ hours) and Naga (P140, 2½ hours).
Donsol
%056 / Pop 47,560
Until the ‘discovery’ of whale sharks off the coast here in 1998, Donsol, about 45km southwest of Legazpi, was an obscure, sleepy fishing village in one of Sorsogon’s more remote areas. In 1998 a local diver shot a video of the whale sharks and a newspaper carried a story about Donsol’s gentle butanding. Since then Donsol has become one of the Philippines’ most popular tourist locations, though the permanence of its shark population is uncertain.
The string of guesthouses and resorts on the coast road north of the village are the best places to stay and most have restaurants. Try Victoria’s Guest House (%0936 153 6990; www.victorias-guesthouse-donsol.com; Purok 1; d with shared bath P600, cottages P1000; W), Dancalan Beach Resort (%0999 445 0030; dm P500, d/tr with fan P800/1200, with air-con P1500/2000; aW) or the fancier Vitton & Woodland Resorts (%0917 544 4089; Woodland dm P500, r from P1800, Vitton d/f P2300/3700; hclosed Jul-Oct; aWs).
For whale shark info head straight to the Butanding Visitors Center (Donsol Whaleshark Interaction Center; %0919 707 0394, 0927 483 6735; h7am-4.30pm). There’s one ATM in Donsol town.
There are direct air-con minivans to and from Legazpi (P75, one hour) that leave when full until about 2pm.
SWIMMING WITH DONSOL’S WHALE SHARKS
Whale sharks migrate to the Donsol waters between November and June, with the peak months generally being March and April. Whale-shark spotting is also subject to the vagaries of weather – if the sea is rough or a typhoon is on the way, the boats will not go out.
When you get to Donsol, head to the Butanding Visitors Center, along the coast road about 1.5km north of the river bridge (P40 by tricycle from town). There are three spotting sessions daily at 7.30am, 11am and 2pm, depending on visitor numbers. Register a day ahead (P300). The boat costs P3500 for six people for a three-hour tour; if you’re a solo traveller, staff will try to add you to a group. Each boat has a spotter and a Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO) on board – tip them a couple of hundred pesos, especially if you’ve had a good day. While multiple sightings are common in season, they’re not guaranteed and interactions can often be fleeting.