Mindanao

Despite beatuiful beaches, killer surf, rugged mountains, and indigenous cultures living much as they have for centuries, Mindanao, with the exception of Siargao and to an extent Camiguin, remains off the tourism industry’s radar. Of course, the conflict that has simmered for several generations (and the 2017 declaration of martial law in the region) bears much of the responsibility for this. That’s not to say, however, that there isn’t development and the woes that go with it – the city of Davao is, for example, fairly cosmopolitan.

TRAVEL WARNING

Embassies of many nations, including Australia, Britain, France and the US, advise against any travel in central and western Mindanao, and advise against all but essential travel elsewhere (with the exception of Camiguin and Siargao). Attacks against transport and commercial targets (buses, ferries, shopping malls etc) have resulted in significant loss of life. Check the latest advisories, and check with Filipinos who know specific parts of Mindanao well, before venturing into any potentially dangerous areas.

Siargao

Initially drawn to Siargao (shar-gow) by good year-round waves and a tranquillity and beauty lost in other Philippine islands, a small group of passionate Aussie, American, European and now Filipino surfers are still living the good life. Even with a marked surge in development over the last several years, more hotels and flights and better roads, the island’s laid-back resorts are still the norm.

The port is in the main township of Dapa. On arrival you’ll probably make for one of the resorts located along the road between General Luna (known locally as GL) and ‘Cloud Nine’.

8Getting There & Away

Skyjet (%Manila 02-863 1333, mobile 0997 503 5654; www.flyskyjetair.com) offers daily morning flights to Manila (two hours, 7.50am) and Cebu Pacific (%Cebu 032-230 8888, Manila 02-702 0888; www.cebupacificair.com; cnr Hayes & Rizal Sts, Cagayan de Oro) has three daily direct flights to Cebu (50 minutes). Siargao’s Sayak airport is out near Del Carmen.

Four morning boats leave from Dapa to Surigao (all departure times are approximate): the 5.30am Fortune Angel (2½ hours) with an indoor air-con cabin is most recommended; the 6am Montenegro Lines boat is a roll-on, roll-off (RORO) ferry, which needs to be booked several days in advance. The 11am Yohan and 11.30 LQP are the least comfortable. You can purchase tickets (P270) the morning of departure. The early-morning boats allow you to connect to flights in Surigao or travel by bus to Cagayan de Oro and Davao in a single day (these would be long, tiring days); however, it means leaving Cloud Nine extremely early. Arrange a motorcycle to Dapa through your accommodation.

8Getting Around

Jeepneys run from Dapa to GL (one hour); a better option is to hop on a habal-habal (motorcycles large enough to seat more than one passenger with bags) to GL or the nearby resorts (P150 to P250, 20 minutes) or Cloud Nine (P200 to P300, 30 minutes).

A new venture, Binggo (%0977 642 3765; www.binggoride.com), offers mini-multicabs available for self-drive (P1200 per day) or with a driver (P1500 per day). One can hold three to four passengers comfortably.

Cloud Nine & General Luna

%086 / Pop 16,800

Solidly ensconced in the international surfing circuit, the surf break at Cloud Nine is unmistakably marked by the raised walkway and three-storey wood pavilion offering front-row seats to the action. It’s a friendly and open surfing community, with plenty of up-and-coming local Filipinos welcoming foreigners and beginners alike. Only 3.5km to the south, GL is a relaxed small town with a few resorts and transport links.

All the resorts here can help organise island-hopping and lagoon day tours, as well as arrange surf lessons (P500 per hour, including equipment) and board rental (P300 per half-day). Or stop by Hippie’s Surf Shop (h6am-6pm); Hippie also teaches yoga classes on many mornings.

4Sleeping & Eating

oKermit Surf ResortHOTEL$

(%0917 655 0648; www.kermitsiargao.com; d with fan/air-con P950/1200, bungalow P1800; aW)

Located down a quiet road just northeast and inland from the centre of GL, Swiss–Italian-owned Kermit is a deservedly popular choice for budget-minded surfers closed out of Cloud Nine. The 10 rooms include several large stand-alone thatch-roofed cottages with tile floors and large, modern bathrooms. The restaurant has candlelit tables in a sandy garden, and pizza, pasta and fish (mains P230 to P300) are the specialities.

Ocean 101 Beach ResortHOTEL$

(%0910 848 0893; www.ocean101cloud9.com; d with fan P900-1500, with air-con P1700-2500; aW)

No longer the backpacking surfer’s HQ, Ocean 101, spread over a manicured lawn facing a sea wall just north of the Cloud Nine break, has evolved over the years. Basic budget rooms are part of the older 101; the pricier beachfront quarters with high ceilings and big bathrooms are part of the new. A two-storey waterfront pavilion provides scenic lounging space.

Paglaom HostelHOSTEL$

(www.paglaomhostel.com; dm P350; W)

At this price, it’s the vibe not the creature comforts that matters. And Paglaom gets it right. It is laid-back but socially inclined, with an open lounge area where bunkmates get to know another. The open-air dorms with bunk beds draped in mosquito nets are cooled by a few fans. There are cold showers and a separate kitchen area for guests to use.

oBravo Surf ResortBUNGALOW$$

(%0999 877 8518; www.bravosiargao.com; dm/d incl breakfast P1200/P3400; aWs)

Young, Spanish-owned Bravo has become one of GL’s happening spots. This is thanks in part to its attractive, closely spaced nipa-roofed cottages with brushed concrete floors and tasteful furniture, and in part to its large open-air restaurant (mains P180 to P320), which is run by a Basque chef. The four-person surfer bunk is a luxurious version of a dorm.

oHaranaBUNGALOW$$

(%0998 849 5461; www.haranasurf.com; dm P800, d P3200; aW)

Boasting typical Filipino uses of wood with contemporary architectural flourishes, Harana’s aesthetic is a sophisticated combination of the traditional and modern. The coed dorm villa is beautiful and the open-air restaurant, which serves innovative Filipino dishes like shwarma sisig (mains P150 to P300), and lounge area is one of the area’s best hang-outs. Beach and Tuason surf break are directly out front.

Kawayan GourmandCAFE$

(pastries P80-200; h6am-6pm; W)

For the island’s best croissants, other pastries and espresso drinks, head to this comfortable oasis of cool, both in terms of temperature and style.

Mama’s GrillBARBECUE$

(skewers P50-70; h6-9pm)

Every evening the surfing herd converges to feed on skewered pork chops, chicken and beef at this modest BBQ shack about 1.5km north of GL. And then, just like that, they’re gone…until the next evening.

Shaka SiargaoHEALTH FOOD$$

(mains P250; h6.30am-5pm; W)

To maintain the healthy vibe after hours out in the surf, try one of the delicious bowls and smoothies at this postage-stamp-sized spot. The super bowl (quinoa, yoghurt, fruit, granola and honey) is especially good.

RAFTING IN CAGAYAN DE ORO

If you’re travelling between Siargao and Camiguin, consider detouring to Cagayan de Oro (CDO) to take on the year-round white-water rafting rapids. The standard three-hour rafting trip (P1200) takes you through 14 Class II to III rapids; several Class IV rapids are part of an alternative longer trip (P1800, six hours); plus P200 for a grilled lunch. Much of the trip is spent floating past bucolic scenery, and enthusiastic guides and excited first-timers add to the fun. CDO Bugsay River Rafting (%088-850 1580; www.cdorafting.com; Everlasting St; per person P1200-1800) is a recommended operator.

Camiguin

%088 / Pop 88,000

Relatively unspoiled and an ideal size for exploration, Camiguin (cah-mee-geen) is notable for its imposing silhouette – drop it down next to Hawaii or Maui and it wouldn’t look out of place. With over 20 cinder cones 100m-plus high, Camiguin has more volcanoes per square kilometre than any other island on earth. And because it’s untouched by large-scale tourism and one of the more tranquil islands around – the 10km of Gingoog Bay separating the island from the mainland are partly responsible – those who do come feel proprietorial about this little jewel and guard news of its treasures like a secret. Besides the usual diving, snorkelling and sandy beaches (except for offshore ones, beaches have brown sand), Camiguin offers a chance to climb a volcano and a seeming endless supply of jungle waterfalls and hot and cold springs.

Kuguita, Bug-ong, Agoho and Yumbing are the most developed of the northern beaches, and where much of the accommodation is located. Some of the best diving is probably off Jigdup Reef, White Island and Mantigue Island; Old Volcano has interesting rock formations.

4Sleeping & Eating

Camiguin SouldiversHOSTEL$

(%0947 411 1189; www.camiguinsouldivers.com; Tupsan; dm/s/d/cottage P200/300/350/600; W)

The simple, fan-cooled, cave-like dorms and rooms here cater to shoestring divers. It abuts the highway where the road divides about 6km southeast of Mambajao.

oCasa Roca InnGUESTHOUSE$$

(%088-387 9500; www.casarocacamiguin.com; Naasag; r with shared bathroom P1000-1500; W)

Gnarly tree branches serve as pillars holding up this two-storey home perched on a rocky headland with waves breaking below. Just three rooms here. The gorgeous sea-facing room, with its sprawling mahogany balcony, is the pick of the island. The two rooms at the back are more modest but terrific value. The international restaurant (mains P200) is highly recommended.

Volcan Beach Eco Retreat & Dive ResortCOTTAGE$$

(%088-387 9551; www.camiguinvolcanbeach.com; Naasag; r with fan/air-con P1500/2500; aW)

A line of well-constructed thatch-roofed cottages face one another across a palm-tree-filled garden (with several hammocks) that ends on a rocky shore battered by waves – there’s a neat bamboo platform for sunbathing. Each has its own small private balcony, high ceilings and mosquito nets. German-owned Volcan has its own full-service dive shop. Service can be inconsistent.

oBeehiveCAFE$

(%0939 932 0334; Catibac; mains P95-215; h8am-7pm) S

Made from recycled wood, shells, rocks and a hotchpotch of other materials a la Robinson Crusoe, this eccentrically designed oceanfront cafe is a good place for a pit stop on a round-the-island motorbike tour. Healthy items such as vegie burgers, salads, pizzas with crusts made from wholewheat, dragonfruit juice and herbs are on the menu.

oGuerreraSOUTHEAST ASIAN$$

(%mobile 0917 311 9859; www.guerrera.ph; Pearl St, Yumbing; mains P250-325; hnoon-2pm & 4-9pm; v)

Camiguin’s culinary profile is given a big boost by this restaurant housed in a large yellow villa on an isolated bit of waterfront. The culinary-school-trained Filipino owner-chef focuses mostly on versions of Thai and Vietnamese street food but also does daily specials like Indonesian–style chicken, Bangkok pork and Indian dal tadka (smoked yellow lentil and chickpea soup).

8Getting There & Away

Camiguin has two functioning ports relevant to travellers: Benoni, 18km south of Mambajao, where ferries connect to Balingoan on the mainland; and Balbagon, only 2km southeast of Mambajao, with connections to Cebu and Jagna on Bohol.

Eight to 10 boats ply the channel between Benoni and Balingoan roughly hourly from 4.30am until 5.30pm (P170, 1¼ hours). If white caps are visible, the crossing can be unpleasant in the smaller and less-seaworthy-looking ferry. Before leaving, local kids climb up the outside of the boats and leap into the water soliciting tips. Heading to Camiguin from the mainland, you purchase ferry tickets at the bus terminal in Balingoan (and then pay a nominal terminal fee at the port entrance itself 200m away).

Palawan

Nothing defines Palawan more than the water around it. With seascapes the equal of any in Southeast Asia, and terrestrial and aquatic wildlife, the Philippines’ most sparsely populated region is also the most beguiling. Because of the silhouette of its main island – a long sliver stretching 650km all the way to Borneo – there’s a certain liberating logic to travel here.

Puerto Princesa

%048 / Pop 255,116

Palawan’s bustling capital is mainly a gateway to El Nido and the beaches of the west coast, but ‘Puerto’ does have enough diversions to warrant a day or two if you’re passing through. A decent food scene, some nightlife along main drag Rizal Ave, and a growing number of boutique hotels increase the appeal.

1Sights & Activities

The Environmental Enforcement Museum displays confiscated chainsaws, boats, dynamite and (sometimes) animals such as civets. The World War II Museum (Rizal Ave; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) is chock-full of war memorabilia and has tributes to the Fighting 1000 and to the 143 Americans who died in the Palawan Massacre at Plaza Cuartel.

Popular island-hopping tours (P1300 to P1500 for up to six people) in scenic Honda Bay are run out of Sta Lourdes, 12km north of Puerto proper. Booking these through tour agencies in Puerto costs an exorbitant P1500 or so per person including lunch and various entrance fees. Instead, put your own group together or show up at the pier and try to join one.

oPasyar Travel & ToursOUTDOORS

(%048-433 5525; http://pasyarpalawantravel.weebly.com; Gabinete Rd) S Genuinely dedicated to conservation and community-based tourism, Pasyar runs a unique, multiday old growth forest-trekking tour that involves tagging along with enforcement officers on the look-out for illegal loggers around Palawan. It also runs the important Environmental Enforcement Museum (Gabinete Rd; P20; h8am-6pm) S

out of its headquarters.

Dolphins & Whale SharksWILDLIFE WATCHING

(%0915 263 2105; www.dolphinandwhales.com; Rizal Ave; whale-shark tours per person P1800, dolphin tours per person P1000; hApr-Oct only; whale sharks 7am-2pm, dolphins 6.20-10.30am)

The effusive Toto Kayabo runs separate tours to spot these creatures in Honda Bay. This is your best chance to spot wild (ie non-handfed) whale-sharks during the country’s southwest monsoon (May to October). Weather permitting, the whale shark tours (minimum six people) usually only take place in the 10 days before and the two days after a full moon, while the dolphin tours (minimum 14 people) are daily.

4Sleeping

oCasa Linda InnINN$

(%0917 749 6956, 048-433 2606; casalindainn@gmail.com; Trinidad Rd; s/d with fan P650/750, with air-con P850/1000; aW)

The meticulously maintained garden courtyard and pergola make centrally located Casa Linda feel like a country refuge. The surrounding wood-floored rooms are clean and simply furnished, though they lack hot water and have thin walls. Yet noise isn’t really a problem, as it’s set 100m back from Rizal Ave. Easily the best-value hotel in town.

oSheebang HostelHOSTEL$

(%048-433 0592, 0915 370 0647; judy.sheebang@gmail.com; 118 Libis Rd; dm/d P350/850; aW)

Sheebang quickly emerged as Puerto’s leading hostel after the legendary Banwa Art House burned down in 2014. In a gorgeous wooden house, it has three air-con dorms with sturdy bunk beds and big lockers, plus some basic en-suite private rooms with air-con. An open-air bar, sprawling garden and competent travel desk make up for the out-of-the-way location.

Pagdayon Traveler’s InnINN$

(%048-434 9102; off Rizal Ave; d P950-1100; aW)

Central but quiet, native-style Pagdayon has six well-kept rooms, each with individual verandahs, set around a thatched open-air common-dining area. It’s just off Rizal Ave next to the giant new Best Western.

Edam & Ace HostelHOSTEL$

(%0935 118 5909; edamandace@gmail.com; off Rizal Ave; dm P250-300, d P500-945)

This colourful, maze-like house is a budget special. While it’s not a particularly social hostel, the simple air-conditioned dorms do not have any major flaws considering the bargain-basement price. Breakfast is P80.

oPuerto PensionHOTEL$$

(%048-433 2969; www.puertopension.com; 35 Malvar St; s P1280-2080, d P1380-2180; aW) S

An impressive-looking four-storey wood-and-bamboo building, located close to the Baywalk, with sweeping views of the bay from the top-floor restaurant. Rooms are masterpieces of tasteful native-style design. Swathed in rattan, with wood floors, they practically define ‘cosy’. The standard rooms are tiny, so spend just a few hundred pesos extra on a plush ‘superior’ double. Discounts available on request.

5Eating & Drinking

Aloeha Mercato de RunwayFOOD HALL$

(National Hwy; h5pm-2am)

You’ll find a nice variety of stands at this open-air food market – the best of several in the immediate area. Highlights include Crystal Sands Bar & Grill, which serves burgers, Mexican and cheesy baked clams; and tasty bread pizzas at Sheebang. Beer towers and live music give the whole place a party vibe on weekend nights.

Ima’s VegetarianVEGETARIAN$

(Fernandez St; dishes P85-140; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 3pm Fri, 6.30-9pm Sat; v) S

A decidedly healthy and delicious option run by Seventh-Day Adventists. Try the spicy bean burrito or vegan-cheese pizza for meryenda (a daytime snack).

Scribbles & SnacksCAFE$

(off Rizal Ave; dishes P50-100; hnoon-9pm)

This mural-splashed, open-air kubo (native-style shelter) hidden behind a Best Western hotel is a hang-out for the local ‘Art on the Move’ group. Struggling creative types lap up the budget pizza breads (P35), pasta and other light meals while sipping San Miguel or iced tea.

oKaluiFILIPINO$$

(%048-433 2580; 369 Rizal Ave; mains P245-265; h11am-noon & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; c)

An institution, this shoes-off eatery has a lovely Balinese ambience – colourful paintings, sculptures and masks adorn the walls, and there’s a general air of conviviality. Choose from a few varieties of seafood, all served with vegies, a seaweed salad, or opt for the sumptuous set meal (P695), which includes coconut flan for dessert. Reservations recommended, especially for dinner and groups.

oArtisansINTERNATIONAL$$

(Rizal Ave; mains P150-250; h11.30am-10pm)

The Scottish owner calls the style here ‘obscurity’; it basically consists of anything he fancies. The menu is a best-of-the-world affair, where tikka masala mingles with Mexican, Indonesian rendang, sloppy joes, giant salad bowls and – for drinkers – margaritas. An unorthodox approach yet somehow he pulls it off.

oPalaweño BreweryBREWERY

(%048-434 0709; www.palawenobrewery.com; 82 Manalo St; h1-9pm Mon-Sat)

Producer of Ayahay craft beers, Palaweño offers free tours and has an attractive tap room for tasting and lounging. A glass costs P150 to P170 or it’s P400 for a five-beer flight.

Kinabuchs Grill & BarBAR

(Rizal Ave; h5pm-1am)

This is where a good chunk of Puerto goes at night. It’s a large open-air restobar with a billiard table, a giant outdoor TV showing sports, and cheap beer. The extensive menu (mains P200 to P400) features many exotic offerings, including tamilok (woodworm), which is said to taste like oyster.

8Information

Palawan Provincial Tourism Office (%048-433 2968; www.palawan.gov.ph; ground fl, Provincial Capital Bldg, Rizal Ave; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) This helpful office is a good first stop for all things Palawan. Ask for Rosalyn or Maribel.

Subterranean River National Park Office (%048-434 2509; City Coliseum, National Hwy; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon & 1-4pm Sat & Sun) Underground River permits (adult/child P500/150) issued here for those not booking with an agency; can usually get a day in advance. Note: You can secure your permit in Sabang only if you can show proof of accommodation in Sabang or points north. If visiting from Puerto Princesa, you must secure your permit here or in the satellite office (2nd fl, Robinson’s Place; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri). The office is about 2km north of the centre.

Tubbataha Management Office (%048-434 5759; www.tubbatahareef.org; Manalo St Ext) Provides information on trips to Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Cebu Pacific (www.cebupacificair.com) and PAL (www.philippineairlines.com) have flights to Puerto Princesa from both Manila and Cebu, while AirAsia (www.airasia.com) serves Manila. Cebu Pacific also has thrice-weekly flights to Iloilo on Panay.

Air Juan (www.airjuan.com) flies little six-seaters to Coron (Busuanga) on Thursday and Sunday, and to the Cuyo Islands on Wednesday and Friday.

BOAT

2GO (%043-433 0039; Malvar St) has trips from Puerto Princesa to Manila (P2000 to P2800, 31 hours) on Wednesday and Saturday at 11.59pm. These go via Coron (P1450 to P2280, 15 hours).

Milagrosa Shipping (%048-433 4806; Rizal Ave) serves Iloilo via the Cuyo Islands with departure at 3pm Thursday (P870 to P1450, 36 hours), as does sturdier Montenegro Lines (%048-434 9344; Malvar St) at 6pm Monday (P1220 to P1590, 26 hours).

All departures are from the Ferry Port (Malvar St).

BUS

Buses, jeepneys and most minivans leave from the San Jose Bus Terminal – otherwise known as the ‘New Public Market’ – 5km north of Puerto city centre, off the National Hwy.

8Getting Around

Multicabs (‘multis’) clog the city’s arteries; it’s P10 to P13 for short hops, including from the centre of town to Robinson’s Place or Santa Monica; grab multis to either location at the corner of National Hwy and Rizal Ave.

Sabang

%048

Tiny Sabang has a beautiful, wind-lashed beach, huge tracts of pristine jungle and a famous underground river that draws van-loads of day-tripping tourists from Puerto Princesa. While the underground river is certainly worth visiting, Sabang’s main appeal lies in its wild setting. The surrounding rainforest is part of the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park (Underground River; park permit incl paddle boat adult/child P500/150, plus environmental fee P150; h8am-3.30pm), and offers world-class hiking and birdwatching.

At 8km in length, Sabang’s famous underground river is one of the longest navigable river-traversed caves in the world and draws scores of tourists. Trips aboard unmotorised paddle boats proceed about 1.5km upstream into the cave (45 minutes return) and now include audioguide headsets. Book a bangka through the Sabang Information Office (P1120 for up to six people, 15 minutes) to get you from the wharf to the cave entrance, or walk 5km via the Jungle Trail (P200 incl guide).

4Sleeping & Eating

oCafe SabangGUESTHOUSE$

(%0905 592 8947; dm/s/d P250/350/700)

Budget travellers finally have a go-to place to congregate in Sabang thanks to this warm and welcoming place in a wooden house. Nothing pretentious at all here, just rustic little private rooms with shared facilities, a cosy five-bed dorm and an earthy cafe. It’s about a five-minute walk south of the beach on the road to Puerto.

The French-Filipino proprietors run a cafe (Sabang Beach; dishes P75-175; h4-10pm; v) of the same name on Sabang Beach.

Dab Dab ResortBUNGALOW$

(%0949 469 9421; cottage with/without bathroom P800/500, with air-con P1800; W)

This place, 200m northwest of Sabang pier, is an appealing haven. There’s no beach here, only a rocky shoreline, but the seven hardwood cottages, equipped with ceiling fans, private porches and hammocks, are much nicer than those on the beach. Generator-powered until midnight (all night for air-con rooms).

Blue Bamboo CottagesBUNGALOW$

(%0946 085 2134; www.bluebamboo-sabang.com; d P300-600, f P1000; W)

A mix of basic budget rooms and charmingly dilapidated all-bamboo cottages with private porches. It fronts a rocky shoreline around 250m northwest of Sabang pier.

AgkarawatBARBECUE$$

(Sabang Beach; mains P150-500; v)

If you’re looking for a square meal, this is the best of the dedicated eateries on the beachfront. Lots of grilled seafood, fresh sashimi, a good vegetarian selection and some Thai and North African flavours.

8Information

Sabang Information Office (%048-723 0904; h8am-4pm) is your first stop for visits to the underground river. If you’re not on a group tour, this is where you pay all fees and arrange your boat.

8Getting There & Away

Coming from Puerto, the turn-off to Sabang along the main highway is in Salvacion, from where it’s a scenic 35km drive over a winding, sealed road.

Port Barton

POP 5000

Essentially a two-road town where the jungle drops precipitously into the bay, Port Barton offers simple pleasures. It’s the kind of place where, after just a few strolls down the beach, you don’t want to share the tranquillity with outsiders. Several islands with good beaches and snorkelling lurk offshore, surrounded by rows and rows of buoys, the sign of working pearl farms.

Island-hopping tours (P700 per head) take in a mix of islands, beaches, reefs and Bigaho Falls (suggested donation P50), with lunch and snorkel stops along the way. You can arrange visits to nearby mangroves (P700 for two, three hours) through the Tourist Assistance Center (%0949 770 9597, 0909 151 1769; Ballesteros St; h8am-5pm).

4Sleeping & Eating

Budget-friendly resorts on offshore islands include Coconut Garden Island Resort (%0918 370 2395; www.coconutgardenislandresort.com; Cacnipa Island; basic s/d P860/995, cottages P1700-2200; W) and Blue Cove Island Resort (%0908 562 0879; www.bluecoveresort.com; Albaguen Island; cottages P1200-1800; aW), while Thelma & Toby’s Island Camping Adventure (Palawan Camping; %0998 983 3328, 0999 486 3348; www.palawancamping.com; per person incl full board P1600) offers glamping on a divine mainland beach, 20 minutes north by boat from Port Barton.

oDragon HouseHOSTEL$

(%0919 322 3054; dm P400-450)

Easily the coolest and most creative hostel in Port Barton. Practical adds include personal battery fans for every bed to combat Port Barton’s power issues; and huge, clutter-eliminating storage drawers under the bunks. Showers have pressure, and hammocks are inverted and turned into chairs on the common balcony. It’s at the back of Deep Moon Resort (%0919 322 3054; www.deepgoldresorts.com; fan cottages P1000-1600, f with air-con P2000-2500; aW): book through Deep Moon.

Besaga Beachfront CottagesBUNGALOW$

(%0918 570 4665; besagabeachresort@gmail.com; r P1200-2500)

With the best resort food in Port Barton, solar-powered fans (usually available all night) and a quiet location at the north end of the beach, Besaga is a cut above most of the beachfront places. The seven cottages are concrete but tasteful, adorned with bamboo and Filipino rattan.

Harmony Haven HostelHOSTEL$

(%0917 711 0069; Pamuayan sitio; dm incl breakfast P500, d/q P1200/2400; W)

If Port Barton is too buzzing for you, then this somewhat isolated hostel 2km north of the centre might suit. It consists of a large concrete house and a few cottages, all set back from a narrow beach. You can kayak fairly easily to absurdly idyllic beaches and islands just offshore; kayak hire is P300 per day.

Hashtag Tourist InnHOTEL$

(%0917 993 4115; Mabini St; r P1000; W)

It’s off the beach, but Hashtag has two features that most beachfront places lack: 24-hour electricity and hot water. The seven rooms are standard concrete affairs, arranged in a row with private balconies. If it’s full, neighbouring Pisces has a similar profile and is owned by the same extended family.

GacayanFILIPINO, EUROPEAN$

(Bonafacio St; meals P50-250; h6.30am-midnight; W)

Backpackers flock here, and it’s no wonder: Gacayan is as reliable as it gets for cheap, tasty meals. It offers backpacker staples like banana pancakes mixed with local specialities such as grilled stuffed squid. A free drink is thrown in with most meals – even the popular budget rice meals (P50).

oJambalaya Cajun CafeINTERNATIONAL$$

(%0948 520 4811; mains P200-400; h8am-9pm; W)

A quirky vibe and huge portions of steaming jambalaya (the Cajun version of paella, properly spiced, P240 to P350) make this the best of Port Barton’s beachfront restaurants. Authentic gumbo, Thai curries, good breakfasts and imported coffee round out the mix. Shakes are available all day thanks to the generator.

8Getting There & Away

There are seven or eight daily van trips to Puerto Princesa (P350, 2½ hours, last trip 5pm) and six direct trips to El Nido (P500, four hours, last trip 1pm). Recaro Transport, Santolis and Nature Island are the companies for El Nido, while Recaro and SBE serve Puerto. A private van to El Nido/Sabang/Puerto costs P4500/4000/3500 (negotiate hard).

For Sabang, take a Puerto-bound vehicle and hop off in Salvacion; arrange a pickup in Salvacion through Lexus Shuttle, or flag down the thrice-daily Puerto-Sabang jeepney.

El Nido

%048 / Pop 41,606

El Nido is the primary base for exploring Palawan’s star attraction, the stunning Bacuit Archipelago. Tiny swiftlets build edible nests out of saliva in the immense limestone cliffs that surround the ramshackle town proper – hence the name, El Nido (‘nest’ in Spanish). The town proper has an ordinary beach, but is home to an emerging restaurant and bar scene. Brooding Cadlao Island looms just offshore.

The El Nido area is blessed with arguably the best beaches in the country, both onshore and on islands offshore. Standouts include Nacpan Beach, around 20km from El Nido, the jungle-backed surfing magnet Duli Beach and the easily accessible Maremegmeg Beach.

2Activities

Tours of Bacuit Bay are universally available and cost P1200 to P1400 per person including lunch, mask and snorkel. Don’t miss Miniloc Island’s Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon and Secret Lagoon, three of the more photographed sights in all of Palawan. Or DIY to some of the closer attractions, like Seven Commandos Beach and Cadlao Island, by sea kayak, which are available for rent (P600 to P800 per day) all along El Nido Beach and Corong Corong Beach. Tao Philippines (www.taophilippines.com; National Hwy, Corong Corong) runs multi-day bangka trips through the Bacuit Archipelago.

El Nido has outstanding diving, and more than a dozen dive shops are ready to take you there. Dives range from shallow reefs to deep wall and drift dives, and it’s a popular destination for PADI certification courses.

4Sleeping

In a nutshell, stay in El Nido proper if you want to be close to the action; Caalan is central yet has a secluded feel; Corong Corong has variety, beach bars and the sunset; offshore is for private-island opulence; and the north peninsula or east coast is where to escape the tourist scene. Low-season discounts average 30% wherever you stay.

oEda Beach CampsiteBUNGALOW$

(%0905 572 0646; edabeach@gmail.com; Km 316, National Hwy, Sibaltan; cottages P500-1500; W)

This delightfully rustic collection of bungalows has a real castaway feel. It’s south of, and isolated from, the other Sibaltan resorts. Despite the name, it’s a significant step up from camping. Owner Randy is, simply, the man. He cooks well and leads superb boat trips to the many remote islands off El Nido’s east coast.

oWhere 2 NextHOSTEL$

(%0917 804 0434; www.where2nexthostel.com; Nacpan Beach; dm P550, r P1200-1700, d in tent Mar-May only P800; W)

Enviably placed just off Nacpan Beach, peaceful Where 2 Next is well positioned to ride Nacpan’s surging popularity. The dorm rooms are charmingly rustic, or you can opt for a snug private. Solar power, great food, friendly management and the most beautiful common bathroom in Palawan round out the package.

Cavern Pod Hotel & Specialty CafeHOSTEL$

(%0915 102 3272; National Hwy, Corong Corong; dm P675; aW)

Simply the nicest dorm beds in El Nido. The Japanese-inspired design of the ‘pods’ features a colour scheme of slate grey and black, beautiful linens, boutique reading lights and a staircase to the top bunk (yes, really). There are just four beds to a room, and each room has its own beautiful bathroom with rain shower and designer-shampoo dispensers.

oBulskamp InnGUESTHOUSE$

(%0956 648 2901; www.bulskampinn.com; Osmeña St; r P1400-2200; aW)

Under new management, this old-timer has spruced up its outdoor common area and restaurant while supplying the same friendly service and good value that it has long been known for. The compact rooms, which can be fan-cooled or air-conditioned, have small beds but are spotless.

Hammock HomestayHOSTEL$

(%0917 935 4027; hammockhomestay@gmail.com; Nacpan Beach; dm/nipa hut P450/1000; W)

A very chilled-out spot 300m off Nacpan Beach with a sociable vibe and a bit of reggae spirit. A diminutive place, it has a comfy common area and snug dorms. It’s near the guardhouse where you enter Nacpan Beach.

Pawikan HostelHOSTEL$

(%0943 438 5397; www.pawikanhostel.com; San Joaquin St; incl breakfast dm P700, r P1500-2000; aW)

A super-friendly, locally run hostel with a generous breakfast (for a hostel) in a three-storey high-rise a five-minute walk from Hama St. The private rooms are a tad small for the price, but the dorms are great – tidy four-bed affairs with personal charging stations and pleasant lighting.

oDuli Beach ResortCOTTAGE$$

(%0947 969 8210; www.dulibeach.com; Duli Beach; bungalow P2500)

Duli features six thoughtfully conceived bungalows mixing European (the owners are Dutch) and local styles on what is essentially a private beach. The bungalows are enclosed by thin screens that bring you closer to the raw nature that surrounds you. A generator provides electricity for a few hours at night. Great food and surfing from November to March.

Jack’s PlaceBUNGALOW$$

(%0995 237 4811; Nacpan Beach; d/q cottage incl breakfast P1600/1800; W)

Walk towards the north end of Nacpan Beach and you’ll encounter this castaway-style gem. It consists of five basic ensuite cottages on stilts, all fashioned of wood and equipped with beach-facing balconies. Kayak rental available (per hour/day P150/500).

Outpost Beach HostelHOSTEL$$

(%0977 373 5229; www.outpostbeachhostel.com; sitio Lugadia, Corong Corong; 4-/9-bed dm P1200/900, r P4000-5500; aW)

There’s really no debate as to where the top party hostel is in El Nido. Outpost ticks all the boxes for hedonistic backpackers, provided they can afford the lofty prices. Beautiful young crowd mingling gleefully in contemporary dorm rooms? Check. Rockin’ beach bar with shooter specials and regular beer pong tourneys? Check. Social island tours by day? Of course.

5Eating

Gusto GelatoICE CREAM$

(Hama St; 1/2 scoops P100/150; h7am-11.30pm)

Fabulous gelato stop offers a variety of flavours in the middle of busy Hama St.

IBRFILIPINO$

(Hama St; mains P95-180; h24hr)

A Filipino greasy spoon where backpackers (often nursing a hangover) and locals chow down on soups and rice and meat dishes. Streetside fan seating and an air-con dining room out the back.

oBulalo PlazaFILIPINO$$

(mains P150-200; h24hr) S

In-the-know travellers flock to this nondescript open-air eatery on the road to Corong Corong for the best fresh-cooked Pinoy eats in town. It’s all sarap (delicious), but the black squid adobo, sizzling pork bulgogi and seafood curry stand out. Cheap breakfasts and lots of vegetarian choices.

oEl Nido Boutique & Art CaféINTERNATIONAL$$

(%0920 902 6317; www.elnidoboutiqueandartcafe.com; Sirena St; mains P220; h7am-11pm; W)

Everyone ends up here at some point. Rightfully so. The large 2nd-storey dining room is a warm and relaxed place to eat, drink and get your bearings. Especially good are the salads (using lettuce and arugula from its own organic farm), home-made bread, seafood curry, pizza, pineapple upside-down cake, and chocolate and mango tarts. It has a bar and live music four nights a week.

oTrattoria AltroveITALIAN$$

(%0947 775 8653; Hama St; mains P240-450; h5-10pm)

This upstairs Slovenian–owned place does the best pizza in El Nido, made with imported mozzarella in the street-level brick oven. There are a dozen types of pasta from Italy, plus T-bone steak and other meat dishes on the menu. It’s very popular, so get here early (or late) during the high season to avoid a long wait.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oBeach ShackBAR

(Maremegmeg Beach)

The ubercool beach bar that makes Maremegmeg Beach (aka Las Cabanas Beach) tick. In the high season it assumes a Miami Beach vibe around sunset as it turns up the tunes and the pretty people flock to it.

oBella VitaBEACH BAR

(Corong Corong)

Quite simply our favourite sunset bar. It has dangerous mojitos, groovy tunes and two-for-one San Miguel during happy hour (3pm to 5pm), plus superb pizza and fresh-baked bread. But most importantly it has that elusive sunset view, unlike many places in El Nido.

Pukka BarBAR

(Hama St; h4pm-4am; W)

Long the most happening place in El Nido, this reggae bar suddenly has a lot more competition and has responded by expanding. It now has two entrances – one on Hama St, one on the beach. Live reggae music and buckets of beer are what make it tick.

Lucky AlofaBAR

(Hama St; mains P170-300; h3pm-midnight, closed Jul-Aug; W)

Burgers, bar snacks, ’90s tunes and quality cocktails are the hallmarks of this buzzing Swedish-owned bar on the main drag.

8Information

Credit cards are accepted at some of the fancier resorts and at one restaurant SAVA (Hama St; h8am-2am), but they incur at least a 4% surcharge.

BPI (Real St) El Nido’s only reliable ATM is here.

City Tourism Office (%0917 775 6036; www.elnidotourism.com; Real St; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Air Swift (http://air-swift.com) has at least daily flights to Manila, Caticlan (for Boracay), Cebu and Clark. One-way fares range from P4500 to P7000, depending on the season. All flights are into Lio Airport, 7km north of town (P200 by tricycle). Air Swift and the airport are both owned by El Nido Resorts, and guests of that company’s resorts have priority on the flights, although there is usually plenty of room for outsiders.

Many people heading to El Nido take a cheaper flight to Puerto Princesa, then drive north five hours by van. The newly opened airport in San Vicente (Poblacion Rd) will potentially cut that van trip in half, but at the time of writing there were no commercial flights. Sandoval Airport in Taytay, just an hour from El Nido, is in the process of upgrading in the hope of landing commercial flights.

BOAT

All public boats use El Nido Port at the west end of Sirena St in the town proper.

The most important boat service for visitors to northern Palawan is the El Nido–Coron connection. Montenegro Lines (%0905 371 0787; Real St) runs a daily fastcraft at 6am (adult/student P1760/1500; 4½ to 5½ hours). Book this ahead in the high season via a travel agent or www.biyaheroes.com). M/Bca Bunso (%0910 720 8443; Real St) runs a slower bangka ferry that’s a better option if you want to take in the scenery (P1200 including lunch, eight hours, 8am).

Atienza Shipping (%0998 881 7226; El Nido Port) has a Tuesday 2am departure to Manila (P1700 to P1850, 25 hours) via Linapacan (P500, five hours). It’s a big cargo boat with rudimentary bunk beds for passengers – a real experience. Additional departures to Linapacan (a few weekly) are via bangka ferry from barangay San Fernando on the east coast.

There are no longer any public bangkas heading south to Port Barton or Sabang.

BUS, JEEPNEY & MINIVAN

All ground transport leaves from the Bus Station (Km 270, National Hwy, Corong Corong), 1km south of town in Corong Corong (P50 by tricycle).

The vast majority of visitors to El Nido arrive on cramped minivans from Puerto Princesa (P500, five hours, frequent), but buses are more comfortable and there is no need to book them ahead. Cherry Bus and Roro Bus (MAP) alternate trips every hour until 10pm, with a mix of air-con and standard buses (P350 to P450, 6½ hours).

Nature Island (%0915 644 1630), Recaro Transport (%0920 502 5797) and Santolis run direct vans to Port Barton, each with at least a morning and an early-afternoon departure (P700, four hours). Alternatively, take a 7am or earlier bus to Roxas (P250, four hours) and catch the noon jumbo jeepney to Port Barton. For San Vicente, you must also transfer to a jeepney in Roxas.

Lexus Shuttle (%0917 686 1110) vans head to Sabang with a change in Salvacion (P700, six hours, 4am, 8am & 11am).

Minivans can be booked everywhere, and a few, such as pricier VIP carrier Daytripper (%0917 848 8755, 048-723 0533; www.daytripperpalawan.com), offer hotel pick-ups. El Nido Boutique & Art Café has a useful booking service for select van companies on its website; you can pay via PayPal or direct bank deposit.

Privately hired vans to Puerto Princesa cost P7000 to P10,000, depending on your negotiation skills. For Port Barton/Sabang, prices start at P4500/5500.

Busuanga & the Calamian Islands

%048

This group of islands in the far north of Palawan, also known simply as the Calamianes, is a bona fide adventurer’s paradise, with wreck diving, kayaking, island-hopping and motorbiking leading the way. It’s a bountiful region filled with white-sand beaches, coral reefs, dense rainforests, mangrove swamps and the crystal-clear lakes of Coron Island.

Busuanga is the largest and most developed island. It comprises just two municipalities: Busuanga town (pop 22,046) covers the northwestern half, while more touristy Coron town (51,803) covers the southeastern half. Most of Busuanga Island is extremely rural, but newly sealed roads are bringing development even to more remote parts.

1Sights & Activities

oCoron IslandISLAND

This island, only a 20-minute bangka ride from Coron, has an imposing, mysterious skyline that wouldn’t be out of place in a King Kong film. Flying over Coron, you see that the fortresslike, jungle-clad interior is largely inaccessible terrain pockmarked with lakes, two of which, Kayangan Lake (Coron Island; P300) and Barracuda Lake (Coron Island; P200), can be visited. The entire island is the ancestral domain of the Tagbanua indigenous group, who are primarily fishers and gatherers of the very lucrative balinsasayaw (birds’ nests).

Mt TapyasVIEWPOINT

F

Grunt your way up 700+ steps to Mt Tapyas for astounding views of Coron Bay. It’s a quintessential Coron experience.

Red Carabao Travel HubOUTDOORS

(MAP; %0905 338 1314; www.redcarabaophilippines.com; National Hwy; h8am-8pm) The culturally immersive Manila hostel (MAP; %0998 573 3884; www.redcarabaophilippines.com; 2819 Felix Huertas St, Santa Cruz; dm P450-500, r per person with fan/air-con P650/1050; hSep-May; aiW; j)

has created a space in Coron for travellers to find alternatives to the area’s predominant but almost inescapable ‘alphabet tours’ (A, B, C, etc). It offers its own tours and provides a venue for others with unique tour ideas to see and be seen. For independent travellers looking to hook up with a group for a great tour, it’s the perfect spot. Upstairs is a common area for games and mingling. Great stuff all around.

Diving

Coron Bay is a world-class wreck-diving destination, and Coron town proper is the main base for dive trips (though they’re easier to access from Concepcion). More than two dozen Japanese navy and merchant ships can be found in the waters off Busuanga, sunk by US Navy aircraft on 24 September 1944.

Recommended dive operators include:

Coron Divers (%0998 953 0430; www.corondivers.com.ph; Zuric Pension, National Hwy; c)

Freediving Coron (%0915 172 6809; http://freediving-coron.com; GMG Hotel, National Hwy)

Neptune Dive Center (%0927 418 4118; www.neptunedivecenter.com; National Hwy)

D’Divers (%0935 403 1816; www.ddivers.com; Km 37, National Hwy, Concepcion)

Pirate Divers (%0905 237 3758; www.piratedivers.org; Concepcion; 2/3 dives incl gear P3000/4000)

Island Hopping

Full-day island-hopping tours are all the rage in Coron, with scores of bangkas departing the town pier every morning on set tours of the main islands and snorkelling sites. Many of the sites are more easily accesible from Busuanga town but Coron town has the bulk of the operators.

A good way to avoid the crowds is to get a small group together and tailor an affordable private tour through the Calamian Tourist Boat Association (%0920 403 7965; town pier) in Coron proper or the alternative Red Carabao Travel Hub.

Kayaking

Coron Bay and the islands around Busuanga offer world-class sea kayaking. Several places in the town proper offer day rentals for P500 to P1000. Coron Island is a reasonable target only for strong kayakers; others should stick to the bay.

You’ll find even better kayaking in Dipuyai Bay off Concepcion, or in Maricaban Bay on the northeast coast, with kayak rental locally available.

To really experience the Calamianes, consider a multiday trip run by Calamianes Expeditions Eco Tour (%0920 254 6553; www.corongaleri.com.ph; San Augustin St) or Tribal Adventures (%in Boracay 0998 999 3049; www.tribaladventures.com; Palawan Sandcastles Resort, barangay Lakdayan, Cheey).

4Sleeping

4Coron Town

Coron town proper has the highest concentration of hotels on Busuanga Island, and chances are you’ll spend at least a night here during your stay in the Calamianes.

oVicky’s PlaceGUESTHOUSE$

(%0946 433 5257, 0935 105 7428; www.facebook.com/Guesthouse.Vickys; Maricaban Bay, San Jose; r with/without bathroom P800/600; W)

This quiet budget option on luscious Maricaban Bay, run by eco-conscious local dive instructor Brenda, is a wonderful place to chill out. She maintains a small dive shop and leads boat excursions around the bay, including dugong-spotting trips (per person P2500 including lunch). It has no beach per se, but you can easily kayak to a few good ones.

Fat Monkey HostelHOSTEL$

(%0998 271 4111; www.fatmonkeyhostel.com; Km 5, National Hwy; dm P380)

This simple, sociable hostel 2km north of town has some of the cheapest dorms on Busuanga, and guests are eligible to take the ‘Fat Monkey Tour’ of the islands, which focuses on drinking and aims to avoid the notorious crowds at hotspots like Kayangan Lake.

Marley’s GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%0956 143 0399; marleysguesthouse@yahoo.com; National Hwy; r without bathroom P400-500; W)

On the main road near the centre, Marley’s is susceptible to street noise, but its arty kitchen and common areas are the best in town.

Happy Camper HostelHOSTEL$

(%0926 503 9616; happycamper.hostel@gmail.com; dm P350)

This hidden place is like a wealthy uncle’s living room converted into a spacious en-suite dorm room. Just seven single beds, each with its own nightstand, electrical socket and fan. Lovely wood floor, a few antique chairs for kicking back in, and a long wooden desk. The downside is no service whatsoever.

Krystal LodgeBUNGALOW$

(%0908 357 3309; s/d P500/800, cottage P1200-1600; W)

This long-running bamboo complex, built on stilts over the water, is the quietest place in town. Rooms range from passable boxes to unique overwater ‘apartments’ with their own bars and sitting areas. Great views, but maintenance is a problem and service is not a hallmark. You’ll either love it or hate it.

Sunz en Coron ResortHOTEL$$

(%0999 659 1891; www.sunzencoron.com; d P2400-2950, f 3600-5200; aWs)

Coron has a dearth of quality at the midrange, but Sunz en Coron fills that void with its collection of compact but efficient rooms set around an elegant pool, and with a restaurant serving the best Korean food in town. The drawback is the location – it’s on a dark backstreet about 1.5km north of the centre.

Seahorse Guest HouseHOSTEL$$

(%0927 497 7559; www.seahorsecoron.com; Don Pedro St; dm/d incl breakfast P600/2000; aW)

This tidy, narrow high-rise houses six cool, crisp, four-bed mixed dorms and just two private rooms. The dorm beds, with personal plugs, lights and cabinets, are the nicest in town. The complimentary breakfast is on the 4th-floor rooftop, which looks out to Coron Bay and Coron Island beyond. Noise is the only concern – it’s right in the centre of town.

4Busuanga Town

Busanga town makes a fine alternative base for those looking to escape the crowds of Coron town proper. Most accommodation is in Concepcion.

Ann & Mike’s GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%0929 582 4020; mcbare13@gmail.com; town pier, Concepcion; r with fan P800-1000, with air-con P1500)

This friendly little place near the pier in Concepcion has a simple nipa hut with shared bathroom, and a newer duplex with two mural-splashed air-con rooms. It has the best food in town, including delicious curries, and is a good source of information on the area.

Busuanga BackpackersLODGE$

(%0916 401 8703; Km 36, National Hwy, Concepcion; d P500)

This rustic place just off the highway has four simple fan-cooled rooms with shared bathrooms and a kitchen for self-caterers. Walk up a small hill to a hut with sea views – a good spot for a sunset drink. The food is good and it has an ecofriendly tour arm (http://tourbusuanga.com) for island-hopping and other fun excursions.

5Eating & Drinking

5Coron Town

oWinnie’sFUSION$$

(National Hwy; mains P180-380; h9am-9.30pm)

On the main road just east of the centre, this unassuming restaurant surprises with creative specials written on a chalkboard and a permanent menu heavy on pretty good Thai food. Specials might include steamed slipper lobster or meatloaf or octopus salad. Wonderful.

oGet Real CafeCAFE$$

(Real St; mains P175-280; h9am-2pm & 5pm-midnight)

This place works equally well for drinks or a meal. It’s sort of a TexMex menu with more emphasis on the Tex (marbled Angus rib-eye steak) than the Mex (ellotos callejeros, or street corn). Sausages are another speciality. The drink highlight is top-notch imported tequila, taken straight or in a margarita. Pretty cheap beer too (P55).

BrujitaINTERNATIONAL$$

(National Hwy; mains P170-300; h9am-10pm; Wv)

Various global delights emerge from the kitchen here: squid done several ways, beef goulash, and pork and red beans. Mung-bean curry is the highlight of the impressive vegetarian menu, or choose from the exciting chalkboard specials menu, which might include fresh fish or Thai tastes. Its location on the noisy main road is a drawback.

Island Boy GrillBARBECUE$$

(cnr Real & Rosario Sts; mains P150-300; h10am-midnight)

Most evenings BBQ smoke and live music waft out in harmony at this popular and prominent street-side barbecue. It specialises in grilled-meat skewers and sizzling dishes, but also does pasta and vegetable kebabs.

Hangover BarBAR

(Rosario St; h3pm-2am)

Hangover Bar has quickly become the most raucous place in Coron. Cheap shots lure backpackers, flashpackers and locals alike. Once a critical mass of booze has been consumed, the tiny dance floor starts heaving with sweaty bodies. Upstairs is a tad more mellow.

5Busuanga Town

Laura’s Garden Tropical RestaurantFILIPINO$

(Km 36, National Hwy, Concepcion; mains P100-165; h7am-7pm)

This simple eatery adjoins a beautiful garden near the resorts of Dipuyai Bay. Just a few items on the menu, including pesto pasta, seaweed salad and kinilaw (raw fish cured in vinegar).

Airplane BarBAR

(Dipuyai Bay, Concepcion)

Gunter of D’Divers was fitting out this old Albatross plane sitting in Dipuyai Bay as a floating bar at the time of research, it should be open by the time you read this. The story of how the plane ended up at Busuanga in the early 1990s is the stuff of legend (you’ll just have to ask).

8Information

There are reliable ATMs in Coron Town.

8Getting There & Around

Busuanga’s Francisco B Reyes Airport (USU; www.franciscoreyesairport.com; Santa Cruz) is 20km north of Coron town proper. PAL, Cebu Pacific and SkyJet fly to/from Manila, while small Air Juan planes fly to/from Caticlan (for Boracay).

All boat departures are from Coron Port, 1.5km east of the town proper (P50 by tricycle), and include 2Go (%0977 849 5305) for Manila, Montenegro Lines (%0915 176 9095) for fastcraft to El Nido and M/Bca Bunso (%0910 371 0621) for a bangka to El Nido.

There’s a public boat service between Coron town proper and Culion Island. Regular buses traverse the southwest coastal road of Busuanga Island between Coron town proper and Salvacion. Motorbike hire is widely available in Coron town, with rates starting at P400 to P500 per day.

Understand the Philippines

Philippines Today

Epic city traffic jams, a ‘war on drugs’ and martial law. Upheavals – natural and political – are par for the course for this country situated in the typhoon belt and the Pacific Ring of Fire. As a result, Filipinos are resolute and adept survivors. Political intrigue, corruption scandals and shifting foreign alliances are often splashed across newspaper headlines. However, for many, it’s mostly white noise. Scratch the surface, and Filipinos’ thoughts are elsewhere: on migration, traditions, superstitions, and the next generation.

Rodrigo Duterte (aka ‘Digong’), who was oft referred to as the ‘Death Squad Mayor’ when he was mayor of the city of Davao for over two decades, ran a populist campaign for the presidency in 2016, promising to fight crime, drugs and corruption. According to Human Rights Watch, quoting official police statistics, more than 7000 people were killed in the so-called war on drugs in the first six months after Duterte took office, many of them suspected dealers and users of shabu (methamphetamine).

The situation in Mindanao, which has been festering for decades, changed trajectory radically in 2017 when nearly 600 ISIS-affiliated militants seized the Islamic City of Marawi. The Philippine military’s response, involving bombing raids, artillery and urban warfare, was intense; however, the rebels still controlled parts of the city several months later.

History

Ancient Filipinos stuck to their own islands until the 16th century, when Ferdinand Magellan claimed the islands for Spain and began the bloody process of Christianisation. Filipinos revolted and won their independence in 1898, only to have the Americans take over, whereupon they revolted again and lost. Out of the bloody ashes of WWII rose an independent republic. However, the defining moment of modern Filipino history is the overthrow of elected hardliner President Ferdinand Marcos in the 1986 ‘People Power’ revolution.

Spanish Colonialists

In the early 16th century all signs pointed to the archipelago universally adopting Islam, but in 1521 Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan changed the course of Filipino history by landing at Samar and claiming the islands for Spain. Magellan set about converting the islanders to Catholicism and winning over various tribal chiefs before he was killed by Chief Lapu-Lapu on Mactan Island near Cebu City. In 1565, Miguel de Legazpi returned to the Philippines and, after conquering the local tribes one by one, declared Manila the capital of the new Spanish colony. But outside Manila real power rested with the Catholic friars – the notoriously unenlightened friarocracia (friarocracy), who acted as sole rulers over what were essentially rural fiefdoms.

The Philippine Revolution

At the end of the 19th century, as Spain grew weaker and as the friars grew ever more repressive, the Filipino people started to resist. The Spanish sealed their fate in 1896 by executing Rizal for inciting revolution. A brilliant scholar and poet, Rizal had worked for independence by peaceful means. His death galvanised the revolutionary movement. With aid from the USA, already at war with Spain over Cuba, General Emilio Aguinaldo’s revolutionary army drove the Spanish back to Manila. American warships defeated the Spanish fleet in Manila Bay in May 1898, and independence was declared on 12 June 1898.

American Rule

Alas, the Americans had other ideas. They acquired the islands from Spain and made the Philippines an American colony. War inevitably broke out in February 1899. But the expected swift American victory didn’t materialise, and as the Philippine–American War dragged on, public opposition mounted in the US. The character of the American home-front debate, and the ensuing drawn-out guerrilla war, would have parallels to the Vietnam and Iraq wars many decades later. It was only on 4 July 1902 that the US finally declared victory in the campaign. The Americans quickly set about healing the significant wounds their victory had wrought, instituting reforms aimed at improving the Filipinos’ lot and promising eventual independence. The first Philippine national government was formed in 1935 with full independence pencilled in for 10 years later. This schedule was set aside when Japan invaded the islands in WWII. For three years the country endured a brutal Japanese military regime before the Americans defeated the Japanese in the Battle for Manila in February 1945. The battle destroyed a city that had been one of the finest in Asia and resulted in the deaths of over 100,000 civilians.

People Power

The 1983 assassination of Ferdinand Marcos’ opponent Benigno ‘Ninoy’ Aquino pushed opposition to Marcos to new heights. Marcos called elections for early 1986 and the opposition united to support Aquino’s widow, Corazon ‘Cory’ Aquino. Both Marcos and Aquino claimed to have won the election, but ‘people power’ rallied behind CoryAquino, and within days Ferdinand and his profligate wife, Imelda, were packed off by the Americans to Hawaii, where the former dictator later died. Cory Aquino failed to win the backing of the army but managed to hang on through numerous coup attempts. She was followed by Fidel Ramos, Ferdinand Marcos’ second cousin. In 1998 Ramos was replaced by movie actor Joseph ‘Erap’ Estrada, who promised to redirect government funding towards rural and poor Filipinos. Estrada lasted only 2½ years in office before being ousted over corruption allegations in a second ‘people power’ revolt and replaced by his vice-president, Gloria Macapagal Arroyo, who would somehow serve nine years, battling her own corruption allegations and threats of a third ‘people power’ revolt.

The Moro Problem

Muslim dissent emanating out of Mindanao has been the one constant in the Philippines’ roughly 450 years of history as a loosely united territory. The country’s largest separatist Muslim group, the Moro Islamic Liberation Front (MILF), has fought the government from its base in the Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (ARMM) since the 1980s, conducting periodic bombings and abductions. In October 2012 the MILF and the government signed the Bangsamoro Framework Agreement (BFA), a preliminary peace deal meant to hand the MILF more autonomy and end decades of conflict and poverty in Mindanao. The agreement was finally signed by the two parties in 2014. However, violence has continued apace throughout the peace process, as the agreement excluded the MILF’s main rivals, the Moro National Liberation Front (MNLF),as well as other Muslim splinter groups. In 2013 the MNLF orchestrated a siege of the southern city of Zamboanga, resulting in the deaths of more than 200 people. Kidnappings and abductions in Muslim-dominated areas of Mindanao remained common in 2014 and 2015. At the time of writing, peace in Mindanao seemed as tenuous as ever.

Promising to end corruption, crime and reset relations with China, Rodrigo Duterte, the former long-time mayor of the southern city of Davao, beat his closest rival by more than 6 million votes in the 2016 presidential elections.

People & Culture

Lifestyle

It’s impossible to deny it: Filipinos have a zest for life that may be unrivalled on our planet. The national symbol, the jeepney, is an apt metaphor for the nation. Splashed with colour, laden with religious icons and festooned with sanguine scribblings, the jeepney flaunts the fact that, at heart, it’s a dilapidated pile of scrap metal. No matter their prospects in life, Filipinos face them with a laugh and a wink. Whatever happens…’so be it’. This fatalism has a name: bahala na, a phrase that expresses the idea that all things shall pass and in the meantime life is to be lived.

For centuries the two most important influences on the lives of Filipinos have been family and religion. The Filipino family unit extends to distant cousins, multiple godparents and one’s barkada (gang of friends). Filipino families, especially poor ones, tend to be large. It’s not uncommon for a dozen family members to live together in a tiny apartment, shanty or nipa hut. Filipinos are a superstitious lot. In the hinterland, a villager might be possessed by a wandering spirit, causing them to commit strange acts. In urban areas, faith healers, psychics, fortune tellers, tribal shamans, self-help books and evangelical crusaders can all help cast away ill-fortune. Another vital thread in the fabric of Filipino society is the Overseas Filipino Worker (OFW) – the nurse in Canada, the construction worker in Qatar, the entertainer in Japan, the cleaner in Singapore. Combined, they send home billions of dollars a year.

Population

A journey from the northern tip of Luzon to the southern tip of the Sulu islands reveals a range of ethnic groups speaking some 170 different dialects. Filipinos are mainly of the Malay race, although there’s a sizeable and economically dominant Chinese minority and a fair number of mestizos (Filipinos of mixed descent). The country’s population is thought to be about 102 million and expanding at a rapid clip of almost 2% per year – one of the fastest growth rates in Asia. The median age is only 23.2 and almost a quarter of the population lives in or around metro Manila.

Arts

Cinema

The Philippines has historically been Southeast Asia’s most prolific film-making nation. The movie industry’s ‘golden age’ was the 1950s, when Filipino films won countless awards. In the 1980s and ‘90s the industry surged again thanks to a genre called ‘bold’ – think sex, violence and dudes with great hair in romantic roles. Today the mainstream studios are in decline, but the quality of films is improving with the proliferation of independent films such as Jeffrey Jeturian’s Kubrador (2006), Ekstra (2013) and Lav Diaz’ epic four-hour masterpiece, Norte, the End of History. Another important indie director is Brillante Mendoza, who won Best Director at the 2009 Cannes Film Festival for his graphic, controversial film Kinatay (Slaughtered).

Music

Filipinos are best known for their ubiquitous cover bands and their love of karaoke, but ‘OPM’ (Filipino rock) is wildly popular too. Original Pinoy Music (‘Pinoy’ is what Filipinos call themselves) encompasses a wide spectrum of rock, folk and New Age genres – plus a subset that includes all three. The big three of Pinoy rock are slightly grungy eponymous band Bamboo, agreeable trio Rivermaya (formerly fronted by Bamboo), and sometimes sweet, sometimes surly diva Kitchie Nadal, who regularly tours internationally. One veteran band worth checking out in the bars of Manila is Kalayo, which plays a sometimes-frantic fusion of tribal styles and modern jam-band rock. Other good bands, currently thriving, that are part of this legacy are Parokya ni Edgar, Moonstar 88, Silent Sanctuary and Brownman Revival, the latter a reggae band. Alternative rock fans should give quintet Taken by Cars a listen. Two other names to look out for are Mumford & Sons–esque folk rockers Ransom Collective, and jazzy vocalist Jireh Calo.

Food & Drink

Kain na tayo – ‘let’s eat’. It’s the Filipino invitation to eat, and if you travel here, you will hear it over and over again. The phrase reveals two essential aspects of Filipino people: one, that they are hospitable, and two, that they love to, well, eat. Three meals a day isn’t enough, so they’ve added two merienda. The term means ‘snack’, but don’t let that fool you – the afternoon merienda can include filling goto (Filipino congee) or bibingka (fluffy rice cakes topped with cheese). Other favourite Filipino snacks and dishes:

Adobo Chicken, pork or fish in a dark tangy sauce.

Balut Half-developed duck embryo, boiled in the shell.

Crispy pata Deep-fried pork hock or knuckles.

Halo-halo A tall, cold glass of milkycrushed ice with fresh fruit and ice cream.

Kare-kare Meat (usually oxtail) cooked in peanut sauce.

Kinilaw Delicious Filipino-style ceviche.

Lumpia Spring rolls filled with meat or vegetables.

Mami Noodle soup, like mee soup in Malaysia or Indonesia.

Pancit Stir-fried bihon (white) or canton (yellow) noodles with meat and vegetables.

Pinakbet Vegetables with shrimp paste, garlic, onions and ginger.

The national brew, San Miguel, is very palatable and, despite being a monopolist, eminently affordable at around P30. Tanduay rum is the national drink and is usually served with cola. Popular nonalcoholic drinks include buko juice (young coconut juice with floating pieces of jelly-like flesh) and sweetened calamansi (small local lime) juice.

Environment

An assemblage of 7107 tropical isles scattered about like pieces of a giant jigsaw puzzle, the Philippines stubbornly defies geographic generalisation. The typical island boasts a jungle-clad, critter-infested interior and a sandy coastline flanked by aquamarine waters and the requisite coral reef. About 25% of the Philippines is forested, but only a small percentage of that is primary tropical rainforest. Endangered animal species include the mouse deer, the tamaraw (a species of dwarf buffalo) of Mindoro, the Philippine crocodile of Northeast Luzon, the Palawan bear cat and the flying lemur. As for the country’s national bird, there are thought to be about 500 pairs of haribon (Philippine eagles) remaining in the rainforests of Mindanao, Luzon, Samar and Leyte. There’s an unbelievable array of fish, shells and corals, as well as dwindling numbers of the duyong (dugong, or sea cow).If your timing’s right, you can spot wild whale sharks in Donsol, Puerto Princesa and southern Leyte.

National Parks

The Philippines’ national parks, natural parks and other protected areas comprise about 10% of the country’s total area, but most lack services such as park offices, huts, trail maps and sometimes even trails. The most popular national park is surely Palawan’s Subterranean River National Park.

Environmental Issues

Given its extraordinary geography of 7107 tropical islands and population of 100 million people, many of whom live well below the poverty line, it seems inevitable that environmental issues will arise. Deforestation, soil erosion, improper waste disposal, air and water pollution, overfishing, destructive fishing and coral-reef loss are all of concern. Not all the damage is self-inflicted, however. The Philippine environment is also suffering from some well-known external pressures, from plastic bottles floating ashore from the rest of Southeast Asia to the many impacts of climate change.

There is an ongoing battle between the many sources of these problems, and the many conservation organisations, both governmental and non-governmental, arrayed against them. The environment of the Philippines today is basically the product of this conflict, whose shifting frontline is everywhere to be seen.

Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

ACCOMMODATION

Within the budget category, rooms for less than P500 are generally dorms or private fan-cooled rooms with a shared cold-water bathroom. Rooms between P700 and P1000 usually have a fan and private bathroom. Anything higher (and some within this range) should have both air-conditioning and a private bathroom.

High-season rates are from November to April or May. While prices in resort areas go down around 20% to 50% in the low season, they may double, triple or even quadruple during the ‘superpeak’ periods of Holy Week (Easter) and New Year.

Chinese New Year (usually in February) and the Japanese holiday period of Golden Week (29 April to 5 May) are additional times of heavy travel that may cause price spikes in resort areas.

SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to the price of a double room in the high season. Prices in Manila, Boracay and El Nido tend to be higher.

$ less than P1250

$$ P1250 to P3500

$$$ more than P3500

CLIMATE

AFor most of the country, the dry season is during the amihan (northeast monsoon), roughly November to May. Rains start once the habagat (southwest monsoon) arrives in June, peak in August, and taper off in October.

AOn the country’s eastern seaboard, the seasons are flipped. Siargao, Bicol, eastern Samar etc are rainy from December to February and, unless there’s a typhoon stirring up trouble, relatively dry.

ATyphoons are common from June to early December. Use the website of PAGASA (www.pagasa.dost.gov.ph) or www.typhoon2000.ph to avoid meteorological trouble spots.

ELECTRICITY

Philippines uses 225V, 60Hz electricity; power outlets most commonly use two square pins, although variations are found.

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

The Philippines Department of Foreign Affairs (DFA; www.dfa.gov.ph) website lists all Philippine embassies and consulates abroad, and all foreign embassies and consulates in the Philippines.

Some countries that require Western visitors to have visas for entry maintain embassies in Manila, including China, India, Myanmar and Vietnam.

Australian Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-757 8100; www.philippines.embassy.gov.au; 23rd fl, Tower 2, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala Ave, Makati)

Canadian Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-857 9000; www.manila.gc.ca; Levels 6-8, Tower 2, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala Ave, Makati)

Canadian Consulate (%032-254 4749; cebu@international.gc.ca; RD Corporate Center, 96 Governor MC Cuenco Ave, Banilad; h9-11am Mon-Fri)

Dutch Embassy (MAP; %02-786 6666; www.netherlandsworldwide.nl; 26th fl, BDO Equitable Tower, 8751 Paseo de Roxas, Makati)

Dutch Consulate (%032-346 1823; zeny.monterola@aboitiz.com; Metaphil Bldg, Tipolo, Mandaue; h9am-noon Mon-Fri)

French Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-857 6900; www.ambafrance-ph.org; 16th fl, Pacific Star Bldg, cnr Gil Puyat & Makati Aves, Makati)

German Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-702 3000; www.manila.diplo.de; 25/F Tower 2, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala Ave, Makati)

German Consulate (%032-236 1318, 0929 667 6386; www.honorarkonsul-cebu.com; Ford’s Inn Hotel, AS Fortuna St; h9am-noon Tue-Thu)

Indonesian Consulate (%082-297 2930; www.kemlu.go.id/davaocity/id/default.aspx; General Ecoland Subdivision, Matina; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

Malaysian Consulate (%082-221 4050; www.kln.gov.my/web/phl_davao-city; 3rd fl, Florentine Bldg, A Bonifacio St; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)

New Zealand Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-234 3800; www.nzembassy.com; 35th fl, Zuellig Bldg, Makati Ave, Makati City)

UK Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-858 2200; www.gov.uk; 120 Upper McKinley Rd, McKinley Hill, Taguig)

US Embassy (MAP; %02-301 2000; http://manila.usembassy.gov; 1201 Roxas Blvd, Ermita)

INTERNET ACCESS

Theoretically, wi-fi and 4G internet access is available in much of the Philippines. For smartphone users, local SIM cards with data (4G) are easy to purchase, and data is cheap at less than P50 per day.

LGBT TRAVELLERS

Bakla (gay men) and binalaki or tomboy (lesbians) are almost universally accepted in the Philippines. Harrassment is rare and you can usually be as ‘out’ as you want to be.

Online gay and lesbian resources for the Philippines include Outrage Magazine (www.outragemag.com), Utopia Asian Gay & Lesbian Resources (www.utopia-asia.com) and Travel Gay Asia (www.travelgayasia.com). B-Change (www.b-change.org) is a social enterprise group that works to promote LGBT rights.

For Manila-related events, the best site is www.thegaypassport.com/gay-manila.

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to the cost of a main course. Prices in Manila, Boracay and El Nido tend to be higher.

$ less than P150

$$ P150–P300

$$$ more than P300

MONEY

ATMs

APrevalent in any decent-sized provincial city; dispense pesos.

AMore remote towns do not have ATMs.

AThe most prevalent ATMs that accept most Western bank cards belong to Banco de Oro (BDO), Bank of the Philippine Islands (BPI) and Metrobank.

AStandard ATM charge is P200 per withdrawal.

AMost ATMs have a P10,000 to P15,000 per-transaction withdrawal limit. Exception: HSBC ATMs in Manila and Cebu let you take out P40,000 per transaction.

Cash

ACash in US dollars is a good thing to have in case you get stuck in an area with no working ATM. Other currencies, such as the euro or UK pound, are more difficult to change outside of the bigger cities.

A‘Sorry, no change’ becomes a very familiar line in the provinces. Stock up on coins and P20, P50 and P100 notes at every opportunity.

Credit Cards

AMajor credit cards are accepted by most hotels, high-end restaurants and businesses in Manila, Cebu City and other large cities.

AOutside of large cities, you may be charged an extra 3% to 5% for credit-card transactions.

AMost Philippine banks will let you take a cash advance on your card.

OPENING HOURS

Banks 9am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday (most ATMs operate 24 hours)

Bars 6pm to late

Public Offices 8am to 5pm Monday to Friday

Restaurants 7am or 8am to 10pm or 11pm

Shopping Malls 10am to 9.30pm

Supermarkets 9am to 7pm or 8pm

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

New Year’s Day 1 January

People Power Day 25 February

Maundy Thursday Varies; around March or April

Good Friday Varies; the day after Maundy Thursday

Araw ng Kagitingan (Bataan Day) 9 April

Labour Day 1 May

Independence Day 12 June

Ninoy Aquino Day 21 August

National Heroes Day Last Sunday in August

All Saints’ Day 1 November

End of Ramadan Varies; depends on Islamic calendar

Bonifacio Day 30 November

Christmas Day 25 December

Rizal Day 30 December

New Year’s Eve 31 December

TELEPHONE

The Philippine Long-Distance Telephone Company (PLDT) operates the Philippines’ fixed-line network. International calls can be made from any PLDT office for US$0.40 per minute. Local calls cost almost nothing, and long-distance domestic calls are also very reasonable.

Mobile Phones

Mobile (cell) phones are ubiquitous, and half the country spends much of its time furiously texting the other half. Local SIM cards are widely available and can be loaded up cheaply with data and phone credit. Roaming is possible but expensive.

APrepaid SIM cards cost as little as P40 and come pre-loaded with about the same amount of text credits.

AThe two companies with the best national coverage are Globe (www.globe.com.ph) and Smart (www.smart.com.ph).

AText messages on all mobile networks cost P1 to P2 per message; local calls cost P7.50 per minute (less if calling within a mobile network).

AInternational text messages cost P15, and international calls cost US$0.40 per minute.

ATo dial a landline or mobile number from a mobile phone dial 0 or +63 followed by the three-digit prefix and the seven-digit number.

AMobile prefixes always begin with a 9 (eg 917, 906).

ARoaming with your home phone is another, though likely very expensive, option.

Phone Codes

For domestic long-distance calls or calls to mobile numbers, dial 0 followed by the city code (or mobile prefix) and then the seven-digit number.

Useful dialling codes from land lines include:

Philippines country code 63

International dialling code 00

PLDT directory 101171

International operator 108

Domestic operator 109

TOILETS

AToilets are commonly called a ‘CR’, an abbreviation of the delightfully euphemistic ‘comfort room’.

AOther than at some bus terminals and ports, public toilets are virtually nonexistent, so aim for one of the ubiquitous fast-food restaurants should you need a room of comfort.

AIn Filipino, men are lalake and women are babae.

TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES

Steps up to hotels, tiny cramped toilets, narrow doors and dysfunctional lifts are the norm outside of three-star-and-up hotels in Manila, Cebu and a handful of larger provincial cities. The same goes for restaurants, although mall restaurants tend to be more accessible.

On the flip side, most Filipinos are more than willing to lend a helping hand, and the cost of hiring a taxi for a day, and possibly an assistant as well, is not excessive.

VISAS

A free 30-day visa is issued on arrival for most nationalities. You can extend, for a fee, in major provincial centres, or extend upon arrival at the airport.

Visa Extensions

Visa rules and fees changed in early 2017. The situation remains fluid, so check the latest rules and regulations on the website of the Bureau of Immigration, whose head office is in Manila (BOI; MAP; %02-465 2400; www.immigration.gov.ph; Magallanes Dr, Intramuros; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri), with a second office in Makati (MAP; %02-899 3831; JP Rizal Ave, Lasala Bldg, 3rd fl, Makati; h8am-5pm).

AIt is easy to extend your initial 30-day visa (technically a visa ‘waiver’) for an additional 29 days. This costs about P3030 for most nationalities.

AThereafter, you may apply for additional one-month, two-month or six-month extensions. The cost for the first month is P4400 and includes purchase of an ‘ACR-I card’ valid for one year; subsequent extensions cost P500 to P1430 per month.

AYou can apply for visa extensions at the head office in Manila or at any BOI provincial office. Most regional hubs and touristy areas such as Boracay have BOI offices; a full list of the regional offices can be found on the BOI website (http://immigration.gov.ph).

AApply for extensions at least a week before your visa expires, or you may have to pay a modest fine (about P1000).

AThe visa process is generally painless, especially in provincial offices, but you can also pay a travel agent to handle everything for you.

VOLUNTEERING

Coral Cay Conservation (www.coralcay.org) Works to protect coral reefs in Southern Leyte.

Gawad Kalinga (%in Manila 02-533 2217; www.gk1world.com/ph) GK’s mission is building not just homes but entire communities for the poor and homeless. Volunteers can build houses or get involved in a host of other activities. Contact the volunteer coordinator, Fatima Amamo (maamano@gawadkalinga.com).

Habitat for Humanity (%02-846 2177; www.habitat.org.ph) Builds houses for the poor all over the country, concentrating on disaster-affected areas.

Hands On Manila (%02-843 7044; www.handsonmanila.org) Always looking for volunteers to help with disaster assistance and other projects throughout the Philippines.

Haribon Foundation (%02-911 6088; http://haribon.org.ph) A longstanding conservation organisation focused on scientific research and community empowerment programs.

Rise Above Foundation (%032-255 1063; www.riseabove-cebu.org; 252 I Limkakeng St, Happy Valley Subd, V Rama Ave, Cebu City) Housing, education and vocational training projects in Cebu. We’ve had positive feedback from recent volunteers.

Save Palawan Seas (%0917 824 1488; www.savepalawanseasfoundation.org) NGO owned by one of the largest pearl producers in Philippines and supported by Flower Island Beach Resort (%0917 504 5567; www.flowerisland-resort.com; cottages incl all meals per person with fan/air-con from P7000/8500; aW), dedicated to educating local fishers in Palawan about the dangers of destructive fishing and agricultural practices.

Volunteer for the Visayas (%0917 846 6967; www.visayans.org) Runs various volunteer programs around Tacloban, Leyte.

8Getting There & Away

Most people enter the Philippines via one of the three main international airports: Manila, Cebu or Clark. A handful of international flights also go straight to Kalibo, near Boracay; Iloilo City on the island of Panay; and Davao in southern Mindanao.

AIR

Airports & Airlines

Ninoy Aquino International Airport The busiest international airport in the country and where you’re most likely to fly in to and out of.

Mactan-Cebu International Airport (www.mactan-cebuairport.com.ph) Cebu’s airport is second only to Manila in terms of air traffic, but way ahead in terms of user-friendliness.

Clark International Airport (http://crk.clarkairport.com) Near Angeles, a two-hour bus ride north of Metro Manila; traditionally a hub for low-cost airlines.

Kalibo International Airport (www.kalibointernational.com) Useful direct flights to Kalibo, near Boracay, from Beijing, Kunming, Hong Kong, Seoul, Shanghai, Singapore and other Asian hubs.

The following regional budget and Philippine carriers are worth checking out for flights in to and out of the country:

AirAsia (www.airasia.com)

Cebu Pacific (www.cebupacificair.com)

Jetstar (%02-810 4744; www.jetstar.com)

Philippine Airlines (www.philippineairlines.com)

Tigerair (%02-798 4499; www.tigerair.com)

TERMINAL CHAOS

Navigating Manila’s convoluted Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA; MAP; www.manila-airport.net) is a nightmare. NAIA’s four terminals are linked only by busy public roads, and shuttle vans linking them are unreliable, so take a taxi between terminals if you’re in a hurry.

Pay close attention to which terminal your airline uses and allow plenty of time between connecting flights if you have to switch terminals. Most international flights use recently upgraded but still dismal Terminal 1. However, international flights run by Cebu Pacific, ANA, Cathay Pacific, Delta, Emirates Air, KLM and Singapore Airlines use newer Terminal 3.

Some domestic flights run by Philippine Airlines (PAL), and all domestic flights run by Cebu Pacific, also use Terminal 3. Meanwhile, all PAL international and some PAL domestic flights use yet another terminal, the Centennial Terminal 2.

Lastly, all AirAsia and Skyjet flights, and ‘Cebgo’-branded Cebu Pacific flights, use the ancient Manila Domestic Terminal (Terminal 4), located near Terminal 3.

SEA

The only international route open to foreigners is Zamboanga to Sandakan in the Malaysian state of Sabah. Aleson Shipping Lines (%062-991 2687; www.aleson-shipping.com; 172 Veterans Ave, Zamboanga) leaves Zamboanga on Monday and (sometimes) Thursday, and departs Sandakan on Tuesday and (sometimes) Friday (economy/cabin P2900/P3300, 23 hours).

Cruise ships frequently dock in Manila and elsewhere.

8Getting Around

AIR

AirAsia (%02-722 2742; www.airasia.com; NAIA Terminal 4), Philippine Airlines (PAL; %02-855 8888; www.philippineairlines.com; NAIA Terminal 2) and Cebu Pacific (%02-702 0888; www.cebupacificair.com) are the main domestic carriers. Skyjet (%in Manila 02-863 1333; www.skyjetair.com; NAIA Terminal 4) is a newer carrier with good deals on some key routes such as Manila–Caticlan and Manila–Busuanga.

APay attention to baggage allowances – some routes and airlines are more restrictive than others.

AIf you book a month or so in advance, you’ll rarely pay more than P1500 (about US$30) for a one-way ticket on the main carriers (exceptions on touristy routes such as Manila–Caticlan and Manila–Siargao, and during peak domestic travel periods).

AFlight routes are skewed towards Manila and (to a lesser extent) Cebu. If you want to fly between any other cities you’ll likely have to purchase two tickets and transfer through one of those hubs.

ATyphoons and other adverse weather often ground planes from July to December.

BOAT

The islands of the Philippines are linked by an incredible network of ferry routes, and prices are generally affordable. Ferries usually take the form of motorised outriggers (known locally as bangkas), speedy ‘fastcraft’ vessels, roll-on, roll-off ferries (ROROs; car ferries) and, for long-haul journeys, vast multi-decked passenger ferries. Mega company 2GO Travel (www.travel.2go.com.ph) serves the majority of major destinations in the Philippines.

Most ferry terminals have a small fee (P20 on average); Manila’s is P95.

You can check out the real-time locations of the various larger ferries plying the waters at www.marinetraffic.com. The website www.schedule.ph is not entirely comprehensive but it’s a good place to start for ferry schedules.

ABooking ahead is essential for long-haul liners and can be done at ticket offices or travel agencies in most cities.

AFor fastcraft and bangka ferries, tickets can usually be bought at the pier before departure (exception: book El Nido–Coron ferries ahead in the high season).

APassenger ferries offer several levels of comfort and cost. Bunks on or below deck in 3rd or ‘economy’ class should be fine, as long as the ship isn’t overcrowded. First class nets you a two-person stateroom.

ABefore purchasing your ticket, it pays to ask about ‘promo rates’ (discounts). Student and senior-citizen discounts usually only apply to Filipino citizens.

BUS & VAN

ABus depots are dotted throughout towns and the countryside, and most buses will stop if you wave them down.

AMore services run in the morning – buses on unsealed roads may only run in the morning, especially in remote areas.

ANight services, including deluxe 27-seaters, are common between Manila and major provincial hubs in Luzon and in Mindanao.

AAir-con minivans (along with jeepneys) shadow bus routes in many parts of the Philippines (especially Bicol, Leyte, Cebu, Palawan and Mindanao) and in some cases have replaced buses altogether.

AMinivans are a lot quicker than buses, but also more expensive and cramped.

AReservations aren’t usually necessary; however, they’re essential on the deluxe night buses heading to/from Manila (book these at least two days in advance, if possible, at the bus terminal).

ABus and van tickets on some popular routes – such as Manila–Banaue (North Luzon), Manila–Bicol (Southeast Luzon) and Puerto Princesa–El Nido (Palawan) – can be reserved online through booking sites such as www.pinoytravel.com.ph or www.biyaheroes.com.

LOCAL TRANSPORT

Jeepney

The first jeepneys were modified army jeeps left behind by the Americans after WWII. They have been customised with Filipino touches such as chrome horses, banks of coloured headlights, radio antennae, paintings of the Virgin Mary and neon-coloured scenes from action comic books.

AJeepneys form the main urban transport in most cities and complement the bus services between regional centres.

AWithin towns, the starting fare is usually P8, rising modestly for trips outside of town. Routes are clearly written on the side of the jeepney.

AJeepneys have a certain quirky cultural appeal, but from a tourist’s perspective they have one humongous flaw: you can barely see anything through the narrow open slats that pass as windows. The best seats are up the front next to the driver.

Taxi

Metered taxis are common in Manila and most major provincial hubs. Flagfall is P40, and a 15-minute trip rarely costs more than P150. Airport taxi flagfall is usually P70.

Most taxi drivers will turn on the meter; if they don’t, politely request that they do. If the meter is ‘broken’ or your taxi driver says the fare is ‘up to you’, the best strategy is to get out and find another cab (or offer a low-ball price). Rigged taxi meters are also becoming more common, although it must be said that most taxi drivers are honest.

Tricycle

Found in most cities and towns, the tricycle is the Philippine rickshaw – a little, roofed sidecar bolted to a motorcycle. The standard fare for local trips in most provincial towns is P10. Tricycles that wait around in front of malls, restaurants and hotels will attempt to charge five to 10 times that for a ‘special trip’. Many towns also have nonmotorised push tricycles, alternately known as pedicabs, put-put or padyak, for shorter trips.

Habal-habal are essentially motorcycle taxis with extended seats (literally translated as ‘pigs copulating’, after the level of intimacy attained when sharing a seat with four people). Known as ‘singles’ in some regions, they function like tricycles, only cheaper. They are most common in the Visayas and northern Mindanao.