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Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:
Laura Child, Francesca Harber, Andy Hughes, Tom Jeffcoate, Oliver Neff, Kajsa Nilsson, Carina Pellar and Sheila Robinson.
It’s always a thrill and pleasure to return to one of my favourite countries, and my thanks go to Mark Zazula in HCMC, Ben, Bich, Seamus and the gang in Phong Nha, and the Hoi An crew of Neil, Caroline, Mark and Leanne. Cheers also to Tam in Dong Ha and Sy in Dong Hoi, and it was great for my wife Carol to finally meet my good friend Kien and his family in Hanoi.
I am very grateful for the assistance provided by numerous friendly folks across Borneo. In particular, I thank Carmalita Goh and the excellent staff at the Sabah Tourism Board in Kota Kinabalu, Leslie Chiang and the friendly folks at Borneo Guide in Brunei, Johnny Lim in Sandakan, and Jacqueline Fong in Kuching. Last but not least, thanks to Jenny for being the best travelling companion.
Massive appreciation to Dora Ball and Clifton Wilkinson for the opportunity to return to Timor-Leste. Thanks to my dear friends Atoy and Julio: watching the magical journey of your country through you is a joy. Thanks to oracle Tracey Morgan, Nela Slezak in Oecussi and Matt Wilkinson on his bike. Thanks again Professor Damien Kingsbury. Thanks Rich, the dugong hunter, for keeping the kettle warm, and to Miles and Ruby, who, one day, I’ll bring to the country I love.
Thanks to the other Myanmar writers for their sterling work and to Laura Crawford and all the LP crew. Thanks also to Htwe Htwe in Hsipaw, John in Tiddim and Jochen in Yangon for their assistance. As ever, much gratitude to everyone I met on the road who passed on tips, whether knowingly or unwittingly. Thanks to my fellow island writers and all the LP crew in London. Thanks also to Alex and co for the nights out on Phuket.
Thanks to the many people who helped with advice and information during my travels in Indonesia, including Johan and Lola in Medan, Leisa in Kalimantan, Michael in Maluku and Roni and Michael in Bukittinggi. Big thanks to Laura Crawford, Dora and Clifton at Lonely Planet, and to fellow writer Greg Bloom for help and support. In the Philippines, thanks to Jay, Elvie and friends, Meann and Martine in Legazpi and Harvey in Caramoan. But most of all, thanks to my patient and supportive wife Hannah and my super intrepid travelling daughter Layla.
A huge and heartfelt thanks to the people of Cambodia, whose warmth and humour, stoicism and spirit make it such a fascinating place to live. Biggest thanks are reserved for my lovely wife Kulikar Sotho and our children Julian and Belle, as without their support and encouragement the adventures would not be possible. Thanks also to Mum and Dad for giving me a taste for travel from a young age. Thanks to fellow travellers and residents, friends and contacts in Cambodia who have helped shaped my knowledge and experience in this country. Finally, thanks my fellow Cambodia author Ashley Harrell and to the Lonely Planet team who have worked on this title. The author may be the public face, but a huge amount of work goes into making this a better book behind the scenes and I thank everyone for their hard work.
A hearty kòrp jąi to the many people along the way who answered my incessant questions or helped me out in other ways during this update. In particular Nicolas Papon-Phalaphanh, Latanakone Keokhamphoui, Yves Verlaine, Khun Buasone, and Prapaporn Sompakdee provided great assistance while Laura, Nick, Rich and the rest of the Lonely Planet team were a pleasure to work with, as always. Finally, a special thanks to my wife Suttawan for help on this book and much more.
I’d like to dedicate my work on this project to my son Benjamin, who arrived while I was working on this update. Thanks to all of my co-writers on this project, who provided invaluable tips and recommendations for their varied corners of Southeast Asia, often squeezing this in around their own deadlines.
A giant thanks to my crack research assistants in Manila: Windi (fountain of knowledge on all things drinking and dining), Anna (‘Manila for Kids’ guinea pig) and Callie (baby-related stress relief and laughs). Couldn’t have done it without you guys. Also to Will and LT for the (costly) casino research. To Bart for accommodating LP writers when needed. To Pia for Palawan tips. And to Luc for doing yeoman’s work post-hockey on QC nightlife.
Thanks to Chiang Mai University and my beloved professors; to Samui Steve, Iain Leonard, Frans Betgem, Lee at Akha Ama and Catherine Bodry. A huge hug to Janine Brown of the Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute for passion and insight on a tricky subject; and my family, Josh, Jasmine and Tevai who I wish could come with me on every trip. Thanks to Andrea, Raf and Rafael. To Mon in Pagudpud; Francis and Archie Baccoy and his family in Kalinga; Grail in Batad; Siegrid and Ryan in Sagada; Ryan Baldino and his uncle in Kabayan; policeman Peter in Abatan; and a huge thanks to Tuvyan Savoy in Baguio. Mostly thanks to my coauthor Greg and DE Laura for dedication and know-how, to my family for understanding and the people of North Luzon for unfaltering friendliness.
A big thanks to DEs Dora Ball and Clifton Wilkinson, as well as to all the people on the ground in Bangkok and northern Thailand. I’m grateful for all the wonderful people on the ground in northern Vietnam, but my trip was made especially easier and more enjoyable by Mr Tung at Cat Ba Ventures, James and Mr Minh at Vision Travel, and the villagers of Na Hu, as well as my helpful Destination Editor, Laura Crawford.
Thank you to my destination editors Clifton Wilkinson and Tanya Parker for all their help guiding me through my Lonely Planet adventure, and to all those I met along my travels who kindly shared their knowledge, time and Singapore secrets with me. To Craig, Cisca and William, my travelling circus tribe.
Thanks to all the kind people I met on the road. Especially to folks at the Iloilo provincial tourism office; Jac Señagan in Dumaguete; Ulrika, Julia and Fiona in Dauin; Mike of Coco Grove on Siquijor; Arno and Kaisa on Camiguin; Gerry and Susan for their warmth and friendship in Siargao; Princess Villarama, Sarah Sapo, Angelo Balao and Joaquin de Jesus on Boracay for their insight on Filipino music. To Carly, Rosie and Boone for making me never feel far from home.
Huge thanks to the late Neil Bambridge, much gratitude for everything, may you rest in peace. Also thanks to Neil’s wife Ratchi, to Maurice Senseit, the jolly staff at Nira’s in Thong Sala, Piotr, Gemma, James Horton, George W, Celeste Brash and everyone else who helped along the way, in whatever fashion.
Thanks to: wise editors Laura Crawford and Clifton Wilkinson, and coauthor Nick Ray for the faith and guidance; Lauren Gurfein for introducing me to Cambodia; Andy Lavender for the dog-sitting; Peyton Bowsher for the dog-tolerating; Jess in Kampot for going above and beyond; Nicole and Alex for excellent company on Koh Totang; Ben, Sharyon, Amelie, Jarrah and Georgie for my favourite ‘research’ day, Lim for the hospitality/volcano sauce, and Nick Berry for showing me real Cambodia and teaching me to ride a motorbike. Thanks also to beautiful surfer Shaina Miller, monkey harasser Andy Wright, safety patrol Sean Abrams, penis gourd model Dustin Weatherford, magical Baliem Valley guide Antoni Sitepu, expert Raja Ampat guy Stuart Wilkinson, Lonely Planet loyalists Mac and John, parents Ronni and Mack, brothers Evan and Alex, and grandmother Adele Fox, the best Gumpy a girl could have asked for, who refused to depart this world before I could return home for a proper goodbye. Love you always.
First up thanks very much for Dora Ball for giving me an opportunity to cover such a cool destination like Java. Thanks also to all the production team for putting this book together. On the ground a massive thanks goes to Gusri Tri Patra and Zulfindo ‘Ajou’ Koto for helping me getting around, and the many laughs along the way. Also thanks to Laura from Laura’s Backpacker 523 in Yogyakarta and Yoppie from the Attic in Bandung for your help in piecing together vital travel info. Finally lots of love to my family and my partner Kate.
Huge thanks to everyone who generously gave time, tips or a warm welcome during my time in Malaysia. I’m especially grateful to Isabel Albiston, Alex Yong, Marco Ferrarese, Narelle McMurtrie and Howard Tan. Big thanks to Dora and Cliff. And endless gratitude to my write-up champion, Normal Matt.
I owe a huge debt of gratitude to the lovely people in Laos who not only made the country such a joy to revisit but either knowingly or (more often) unwittingly helped me along. Special thanks go out to Miss Noy, Mr Ping, Kaz Kumrunrotschna, Michel Marcel Saada, Lara Picavet and Tom Chanthaphone for unlocking the secrets of their respective regions. Thanks to Felipe Bascuñán for tolerating my long absences and to Laura Crawford for taking a chance on a guidebook newbie.
I’d like to thank Agus, Hernan, Edwin and all the other kind people who helped me get to grips with Nusa Tenggara and Sulawesi; Cliff and everyone I worked with at LP for the opportunity and support; and, most of all, Tas, Maise and Willa for their endless forbearance.
I am indebted to the journalists, scholars and bloggers who cover the region with insight, fearlessness and compassion.
I was lucky to have a wonderful research trip along Vietnam’s stunning coastline. Thanks to Mark, Lu and Matt Cowan in Saigon, Caroline Mills, Neil Fraser and Travis in Hoi An, team Nha Trang and Grazina, Thomas and Julia. My appreciation as well to Laura Crawford and my coauthors. Thanks to Laura for the commission, to Greg Bloom for help and contacts in the region, to Jamie Marshall for sharing some of the hard yards on the road, to Gino and Nikki in Bantayan and Cebu, Jacques and Lucia in Tacloban for expert advice and to the good folk of Calicoan Island, particularly Luna Beach resort. Many tourist information staff helped me on the way across the region, and I am grateful to you all.
A great number of people, from taxi drivers to information officers, gave me excellent advice and help along the way; I’m very grateful to all of them. Specific thanks go to Siriporn Chiangpoon, Ian on Ko Chang, Maitri in Si Racha, Chayanan in Chanthaburi and the friendly Ang Sila volunteers.
Many thanks to the Vietnamese people and friends, especially Pham Hoang Manh in Hanoi, Nam, Tri and Liam Le in Saigon, Mr The for Ha Tien and Hon Chong, Nghiêm Nguyen and Anthony in Can Tho, Phuc Anh for the adventure to Tra Vinh. Thank you Laura Crawford for having me on board again. Thanks to Daniel Belfield for dressing gowns, bao, cocktails and xe om teaming.
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
Illustrations here, here, here by Michael Weldon.
Cover photograph: Traditional puppet show, Thailand, saravutvanset/Getty©
This 19th edition of Lonely Planet’s Southeast Asia on a Shoestring guidebook was researched and written by Brett Atkinson, Lindsay Brown, Jayne D’Arcy, David Eimer, Paul Harding, Nick Ray, Tim Bewer, Joe Bindloss, Greg Bloom, Celeste Brash, Austin Bush, Ria de Jong, Michael Grosberg, Damian Harper, Ashley Harrell, Trent Holden, Anita Isalska, Mark Johanson, Hugh McNaughtan, Rebecca Milner, Simon Richmond, Iain Stewart, Andy Symington and Phillip Tang. The previous edition was written by Nick Ray, Isabel Albiston, Greg Bloom, Ria de Jong, David Eimer, Sarah Reid, Simon Richmond, Iain Stewart, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Richard Waters and China Williams. This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editors Dora Ball, Laura Crawford, Tanya Parker, Clifton Wilkinson
Senior Product Editor Kate Chapman
Product Editor Kate Kiely
Senior Cartographer Diana Von Holdt
Book Designer Clara Monitto
Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Janice Bird, Nigel Chin, Katie Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Emma Gibbs, Carly Hall, Jennifer Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, Kate Morgan, Rosie Nicholson, Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, Christopher Pitts, Tamara Sheward, Sarah Stewart, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Williamson
Assisting Cartographers Michael Garrett, Rachel Imeson
Assisting Book Designer Virginia Moreno
Cover Researcher Naomi Parker
Thanks to Carolyn Boicos, Barbara Delissen, Bruce Evans, Shona Gray, Liz Heynes, Andi Jones, Elizabeth Jones, Sandie Kestell, Anne Mason, Mao Monkolransey, Niamh O’Brien, Lauren O’Connell, Martine Power, Moe Pwint Phyu, Kirsten Rawlings, Kathryn Rowan, Vicky Smith, Gabrielle Stefanos, Branislava Vladisavljevic, Tracy Whitmey
eBook thanks to Julie J. Dodkins, Craig Kilburn, Wayne Murphy, John Taufa and Juan Winata.