North Central Vietnam
The extraordinary cave systems of the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park and the karst scenery around Ninh Binh make north central Vietnam an essential destination for intrepid visitors. Beyond the caves of Phong Nha, it’s also very easy to spend a few days mountain biking around the laidback Bong Lai valley, or kicking back in some of the region’s more interesting bars and cafes.
Factor in wildlife watching and trekking opportunities in Cuc Phuong National Park and it’s definitely the right decision not to rush through this region while heading north or south.
Ninh Binh
%0229 / Pop 160,000
The city of Ninh Binh isn’t a destination in itself, but it’s a good base for exploring some quintessentially Vietnamese karst scenery and bucolic countryside (including Tam Coc and Cuc Phuong National Park). However, many attractions are heavily commercialised.
1Sights
Trang AnCAVE
(
h7.30am-4pm)
Rowboats bob along the Sao Khe River through limestone caves. It’s a relaxing trip, but many caves have also been enlarged to accommodate boats. Boat trips (150,000d per person, or 800,000d for your own boat) take two hours, and there are two possible routes, both visiting caves and temples. Bring a hat and sunscreen as the boats lack shade. Trang An is 7km northwest of Ninh Binh. You’ll pass it on the way to the Chua Bai Dinh.
Chua Bai DinhBUDDHIST SITE
(h7am-5.45pm)
F
Chua Bai Dinh is a bombastic Buddhist complex, built on a vast scale, that rises up a hillside near Ninh Binh. Construction was completed in 2014, and it’s now a huge attraction for Vietnamese tourists. The entrance leads to cloistered walkways past 500 stone arhats (enlightened Buddhists) lining the route to the main triple-roofed Phap Chu Pagoda. This contains a 10m, 100-tonne bronze Buddha, flanked by two more gilded Buddha figures.
4Sleeping & Eating
Restaurant choices are limited, try the local speciality, de (goat meat).
Go Ninh Binh HostelHOSTEL$
(%0229-387 1186; www.goninhbinhhostel.com; Ð Ngo Gia Tu; dm US$5, d US$20-24; 
a
i
W)
Recently opened in the city’s former railway station, Go Ninh Binh has colourful dorms, doubles with en suite bathrooms, and plenty of shared areas including hammocks and a foosball table. A library, bar, pool table and darts board are also all popular, and the team at reception has plenty of ideas for exploring the broader Ninh Binh area.
Trung TuyetVIETNAMESE$
(14 Ð Hoang Hoa Tham; meals 40,000-90,000d; h8.30am-9.30pm; 
v)
Expect filling portions, options for vegetarians, and a warm welcome from the host family at this busy little place that’s popular with travellers. The owners will even drop you off at the nearby train station if you’re kicking on after your meal.
Bia HoiBAR
For drinking bia hoi (draught beer), try the riverside places near the local brewery.
TTours
Truong NguyenTOURS
(%0915 666 211, 0165 348 8778; www.ninhbinhtour.vn) Freelance guide Truong offers escorted motorbike trips around Ninh Binh using country back roads, and also trekking in Pu Luong Nature Reserve, a forested area across two mountain ridges, where you can stay in Thai and Hmong homestays. He also runs trips to the northern Ha Giang province, and operates an excellent new hotel (%0229-388 3588; www.friendlyhome.vn; 5 60/45 Ð Hai Thuong Lang On; s US$16, d US$22-35, f $42; aiW)
in Ninh Binh City.
Chookie’s ToursOUTDOORS
(%0948 346 026; www.facebook.com/chookiesninhbinh; 17 Ð Luong Van Tuy; per person 300,000-1,210,000d; h9am-10pm)
Regular departures exploring the area’s attractions by motorbike, tours to Trang An grottoes, and a nature discovery tour taking in Van Long Nature Reserve and the Cuc Phuong National Park.
8Getting There & Away
The city is connected by very regular buses from Giap Bat bus station in Hanoi (from 75,000d, 2½ hours). Ninh Binh is a scheduled stop for both opentour buses and some trains travelling between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC).
Tam Coc
Famed for huge limestone rock formations that loom over rice paddies, this famous, though touristy, site is 9km southwest of Ninh Binh. Tam Coc Boat Trips (boat base fare 150,000d, plus adult/child 120,000/60,000d; h7am-3.30pm) take in some breathtaking scenery, passing through karst caves on the beautiful two-hour tour. Boats seat two passengers (and have no shade). Prepare yourself for pushy vendors.
The surrounding karst limestone landscapes are also excellent for cycling and most accommodation has bikes on offer.
4Sleeping & Eating
The largely rural area around Tam Coc has several good accommodation options, and it is a good and quieter alternative to staying in Ninh Binh city.
Nguyen ShackBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0229-361 8678; www.nguyenshack.com; near Mua Cave, Hoa Lu district; bungalows US$22-55; W)
With a riverside setting around 5km from Tam Coc, Nguyen Shack’s easygoing, lazy-days thatched bungalows are the perfect antidote to the bustle of Hanoi. Lie in a hammock, drop a fishing rod off your rustic terrace, or grab a bicycle and go exploring. There’s an on-site restaurant and bar, too.
Chookies Beer GardenBEER GARDEN
(www.facebook.com/pg/chookiesninhbinh; Tam Coc–Bich Dong Rd; h9am-10pm)
8Getting There & Away
Tam Coc is 9km southwest of Ninh Binh. Hotels in Ninh Binh run tours, or make your own way by bicycle or motorbike (your hotel can advise on beautiful back roads). Hanoi tour operators offer day trips from around US$25.
Cuc Phuong National Park
%030 / Elev 150-656m
This impressive national park (%030-384 8006; www.cucphuongtourism.com; adult/child 40,000/20,000d) was declared the nation’s first national park in 1963 and is home to 307 bird, 133 mammal and 122 reptile species, plus more than 2000 different plants. However, due to illegal poaching, little wildlife is encountered. Trekking opportunities are good, including a hike (8km return) to an enormous 1000-year-old tree (Tetrameles nudiflora, for botany geeks), and to a Muong village, where you can also go rafting. A guide is mandatory for longer treks.
The Endangered Primate Rescue Center (%0229-384 8002; www.eprc.asia; 30,000d; h9-11.30am & 1.30-4pm) is home to around 150 rare primates bred in captivity or confiscated from illegal traders. These gibbons, langurs and lorises are rehabilitated, studied and, whenever possible, released into semiwild protected areas. There’s also a Turtle Conservation Center (%030-384 8090; www.asianturtleprogram.org; 30,000d; h9-11am & 2-4.45pm). You’ll find excellent information displays, and there are incubation and hatchling viewing areas. The centre successfully breeds and releases turtles of 11 different species.
During the rainy season (July to September) leeches are common in Cuc Phuong. There are several accommodation areas inside the park. At the park headquarters (s US$16-35, d US$27-50, stilt house US$14, bungalow US$23) you’ll find standard rooms redecorated ‘deluxe’ rooms, a stilt house and a private bungalow. There’s a simple restaurant here too.
8Getting There & Away
Cuc Phuong National Park is 45km west of Ninh Binh and is best visited with your own wheels. Tour companies based in Ninh Binh and Hanoi can arrange transport, activities and accommodation.
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park
%0232
Designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003, the remarkable Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park (%052-367 7021; http://phongnhakebang.vn/en) 
SF contains the oldest karst mountains in Asia, formed approximately 400 million years ago. Riddled with hundreds of cave systems – many of extraordinary scale and length – and spectacular underground rivers, Phong Nha is a speleologists’ heaven on earth.
The Phong Nha region is changing fast. Son Trach town (population 3000) is the main centre, with an ATM, a growing range of accommodation and eating options, and improving transport links with other parts of central Vietnam.
The caves are the region’s absolute highlights, but the above-ground attractions of forest trekking, the area’s war history, and rural mountain biking mean it deserves a stay of around three days.
1Sights
The Phong Nha region is exploding in popularity, and it’s recommended that you book overnight caving tours for Tu Lan, Hang Va and Hang En in advance if possible. Note that most of the adventure caves are closed during the wet season from around mid-September to either late November or late December.
oTu Lan CaveCAVE
(www.oxalis.com.vn; 2-day tours per person 5,500,000d; hNov–mid-Sep)
The Tu Lan cave trip begins with a countryside hike, then a swim (with headlamps and life jackets) through two spectacular river caves, before emerging in an idyllic valley. Then there’s more hiking through dense forest to a ‘beach’ where rivers merge; this is an ideal campsite. There’s more wonderful swimming here in vast caverns. Moderate fitness levels are necessary. Tu Lan is 65km north of Son Trach and can only be visited on a guided tour.
Hang ToiCAVE
(Dark Cave; per person 350,000d)
Incorporating an above-water zipline, followed by a swim into the cave and then exploration of a pitch-black passageway of oozing mud, it’s little wonder Hang Toi is the cave experience you’ve probably already heard about from other travellers. Upon exiting the cave, a leisurely kayak paddle heads to a jetty where there are more into-the-water zipline thrills to be had.
oHang EnCAVE
(per person 1,100,000d; hlate Dec-Aug)
This gigantic cave is very close to Hang Son Doong (hFeb-Aug), and both featured in a National Geographic photographic spread in 2011. Getting here involves a trek through dense jungle, valleys and the Ban Doong minority village, a very remote tribal settlement (with no electricity or roads). You stay overnight in the cave or in a minority village. Tours can be booked via Oxalis or local accommodation.
Paradise CaveCAVE
(Thien Dong; adult/child under 1.3m 250,000/125,000d; h7.30am-4.30pm)
Surrounded by forested karst peaks, this remarkable cave system extends for 31km, though most people only visit the first kilometre. The scale is breathtaking, as wooden staircases descend into a cathedral-like space with colossal stalagmites and glimmering stalactites. Get here early to beat the crowds, as during peak times (early afternoon) tour guides shepherd groups using megaphones. Paradise Cave is about 14km southwest of Son Trach. Electric buggies (per person one way/return 15,000/25,000d) ferry visitors from the car park to the entrance.
Phong Nha Cave & Boat TripCAVE
(adult/child under 1.3m 150,000/25,000d, boat up to 14 people 320,000d; h7am-4pm)
The spectacular boat trip through Phong Nha Cave is an enjoyable, though touristy, experience beginning in Son Trach town. Boats cruise along past buffalo, limestone peaks and church steeples to the cave’s gaping mouth. The engine is then cut and the boats are negotiated silently through cavern after garishly illuminated cavern. On the return leg there’s the option to climb (via 330 steps) up to the mountainside Tien Son Cave (80,000d) with the remains of 9th-century Cham altars.
TTours
Beyond the attractions of the caves, there’s a growing range of options to explore the jungle scenery and history of this interesting area. Most activities can be booked through your accommodation.
oOxalis Adventure ToursADVENTURE
(%0232-367 7678; www.oxalis.com.vn; Son Trach; h7.30am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
Oxalis is unquestionably the expert in caving and trekking expeditions, and is the only outfit licensed to conduct tours to Hang Son Doong. Staff are all fluent English-speakers, and trained by world-renowned British cavers Howard and Deb Limbert.
Phong Nha Farmstay ToursADVENTURE
(%0232-367 5135; www.phong-nha-cave.com; Cu Nam)
Phong Nha Farmstay’s popular National Park Tour (per person 1,350,000d) incorporates the Ho Chi Minh Trail with Paradise Cave and Hang Toi; there’s also the option of negotiating the recently opened Tra Ang Cave. Ask about exciting customised tours (per person 2,500,000d), bouncing around in the farmstay’s vintage Ural motorbike and sidecar.
Hai’s Eco ToursHIKING
(%0962 606 844; www.ecophongnha.com; Bamboo Cafe, Son Trach; per person 1,450,000d)
Interesting day tours combining hiking in the jungle – you’ll need to be relatively fit – with a visit to Phong Nha’s Wildlife Rescue and Rehabilitation Centre, which rehabilitates rescued animals (mainly macaques from nearby regions, but also snakes and birds). Prices include a barbecue lunch, and there’s an opportunity to cool off at the end of the day in a natural swimming hole. A two-day/one-night option (3,200,000d) camping overnight in the Weapon Cave is also available.
Jungle Boss TrekkingHIKING
(%0917 800 805; www.jungle-boss.com; Phong Nha village, Son Trach; per person from 1,350,000d)
Dzung (‘Jungle Boss’) is an experienced guide to the area. He speaks excellent English and runs one- and two-day tours around the Ho Chi Minh Trail and the Abandoned Valley area of the national park. A recent addition exploring the remote Ma Da Valley includes a swim in the Tra Ang river cave. You’ll need moderate to high fitness levels.
HANG SON DOONG
Ho Khanh, a hunter, stumbled across gargantuan Hang Son Doong (Mountain River Cave) in the early 1990s, but the sheer scale and majesty of the principal cavern (more than 5km long, 200m high and, in some places, 150m wide) was only confirmed as the world’s biggest cave when British explorers returned with him in 2009.
Sections of the cave are pierced by skylights that reveal formations of ethereal stalagmites (some up to 80m high) that cavers have called the Cactus Garden. Colossal cave pearls have been discovered, measuring 10cm in diameter. Magnificent rimstone pools are present too.
Hang Son Doong is one of the most spectacular sights in Southeast Asia, and the only specialist operator permitted (by the Vietnamese president no less) to lead tours here is Son Trach–based Oxalis Adventure Tours. Four-night/three day expeditions cost a backpacking blowout of US$3000 per person.
4Sleeping
Easy TigerHOSTEL$
(%0232-367 7844; www.easytigerphongnha.com; Son Trach; dm 160,000d; aiW
s)
In Son Trach town, this very popular hostel has four- and six-bed dorms, the great Jungle Bar (Son Trach; h7am-midnight; W), a pool table and excellent travel information. A swimming pool and beer garden make it ideal for relaxation after trekking and caving. Ask about free bicycles and a map to explore the interesting Bong Lai valley. Email reservations preferred.
ShambalaaHOSTEL$
(%0232-367 7889; www.shambalaa.com; dm 160,000d; 
naW)
One of Phong Nha’s newest hostels, Shambalaa is brightly decorated with Asian-style wall hangings, and features spotless dorms and a rooftop lounge area. It has a more chilled and laid-back ambience than at other more social hostels around town. Use of the pool and bar facilities at the Easy Tiger hostel is included. Email is preferred for bookings.
Phong Nha Mountain HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0935 931 009; www.phongnhamountainhouse.com; d US$40; iW)
Owned by a hardworking local family, the Phong Nha Mountain House features four comfortable wooden stilt houses with private bathrooms and views of surrounding farmland. Pristine white bed linen contrasts with the warm sheen of the timber walls, and the elevated position means the rooms are light and breezy. It’s a flat 3km bike ride into Son Trach town.
oPhong Nha FarmstayGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0232-367 5135; www.phong-nha-cave.com; Cu Nam; r 910,000-1,170,000d, f 1,300,000-1,950,000d; naiWs)
The place that really put Phong Nha on the map, the Farmstay has peaceful views overlooking an ocean of rice paddies. Rooms are smallish but neat, with high ceilings and shared balconies. The bar-restaurant serves up Asian and Western meals, and there’s a social vibe and occasional movies and live music. Local tours are excellent and there’s free bicycle hire.
Jungle Boss HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0886 077 780; www.jungle-boss.com; Son Trach; d/f 800,000/1,000,000d; aW)
Run by the friendly Dzung – a local trekking guide with excellent English – and his wife Huong, this place has simple but stylish rooms, and two edge-of-the-village locations with rice-paddy views and an organic farm. Rates include breakfast and free use of bicycles, and Dzung’s Jungle Boss Trekking also offers caving and jungle trekking trips. Family rooms are good value.
5Eating & Drinking
Eating options in the town of Son Trach now include everything from bakeries and simple Vietnamese restaurants through to pizza, Indian cuisine and Western-style cafes. Explore the nearby Bong Lai valley by mountain bike for simple places selling barbecue duck and pork.
Bamboo CafeCAFE$
(www.phong-nha-bamboo-cafe.com; Son Trach; meals 40,00-80,000d; h7am-10.30pm; Wv)
This laid-back haven on Son Trach’s main drag has colourful decor, and well-priced food and drink, including excellent fresh-fruit smoothies and varied vegetarian options.
Mountain Goat RestaurantVIETNAMESE$$
(Son Trach; goat from 150,000d; h11am-9pm)
Dine on grilled and steamed de (goat) – try the goat with lemongrass – at this riverside spot in Son Trach. Other options include spicy chicken and ice-cold beer. From the Phong Nha Cave boat station, walk 150m along the river, just past the church.
Bomb Crater BarBAR
(%0166 541 0230; www.bombcraterbar.com; Cu Lac village; h9am-7pm)
Ride a bike 3km from Son Trach to this riverside spot for cold beers, robust gin and tonics, and tasty Vietnamese snacks. Lying in a hammock, kayaking on the river, or chilling with the bar’s resident water buffalo are all added attractions at this great place for a sundowner drink. And, yes, there is a 1970s bomb crater just nearby.
East HillCAFE, BAR
(%0948 953 925; www.facebook.com/East-Hill-Phong-Nha-237868583268158/; h11am-8pm)
High on a grassy hillock, the open-sided East Hill is a laid-back spot for a sunset beer and Vietnamese snacks, and equally popular with travellers, and students from nearby Dong Hoi. Sit at the rustic shared wooden tables and take in great rural views. East Hill is around 8km east of Son Trach en route to the Bong Lai valley.
8Information
Hai at the Bamboo Cafe is a superb source of independent travel information, and the helpful staff at the Phong Nha Farmstay and Easy Tiger can assist with tours, information and transport. There’s a tourist office opposite the jetty in Son Trach, but staff are not well versed regarding independent travel.
8Getting There & Away
The coastal city of Dong Hoi, 166km north of Hue on Hwy 1 and on the north–south train line, is the main gateway to Phong Nha. The national park abuts Son Trach village, which is 50km northwest of Dong Hoi.
Hotels can organise lifts in private cars from Dong Hoi (500,000d); they work together so rides can be shared between travellers to cut costs. Local buses (35,000d, 90 minutes) shuttle between Dong Hoi’s bus station and Son Trach, leaving regularly from 6am to 5pm. Dong Hoi’s railway station is around 1.3km from the bus station and the city is on the main north–south line.
From Hue (around 180,000d, five hours), the Hung Thanh open-tour bus leaves 49 Ð Chu Van An at 4.30pm, and the Tan Nha bus leaves from the Why Not? bar on Ð Vo Thi Sau around 6.30am. Also convenient is a daily bus (150,000d) leaving the DMZ bar in Hue at 2pm.
Open-tour buses also link Hanoi and Hoi An to Son Trach and it’s now a regular stop on motorbike transfer services operating from Hanoi, Hue and Hoi An. Sit back and enjoy the ride.
8Getting Around
Bicycling is recommended to explore Phong Nha’s rural back roads, especially the quirky collection of rustic local restaurants and activities popping up around the nearby Bong Lai valley. Easy Tiger hires out bikes and can supply a handy map.
Motorcycling or scootering around the national park is not recommended for inexperienced drivers – the area is not well signposted and every year there’s an increasing number of injuries to travellers.
A good option is to book a tour with Thang’s Phong Nha Riders (www.easytigerhostel.com/thangs-phong-nha-riders; beside Easy Tiger hostel, Son Trach). A day’s hire of a bike and driver is around 400,000d, they’re well-versed in the sights of the area, and you’ll be providing work for enthusiastic locals. Thang’s can also arrange motorbike transfers through absolutely stunning scenery to Hue or Khe Sanh.
Demilitarised Zone (DMZ)
From 1954 until 1975 the Ben Hai River served as the dividing line between South Vietnam and North Vietnam. The DMZ, 90km north of Hue, consisted of the area 5km on either side of the line. Many of the ‘sights’ around the DMZ may not be worthwhile unless you’re into war history. To make sense of it all, and to avoid areas where there’s still unexploded ordnance, a guide is essential. Group day tours from Hue cost from US$15 for a budget bus trip to as much as US$120 for a specialised car tour with a Viet vet.
1Sights
oVinh Moc TunnelsHISTORIC SITE
(30,000d; h7am-4.30pm)
A highly impressive complex of tunnels, Vinh Moc is the remains of a coastal North Vietnamese village that literally went underground in response to unremitting American bombing. More than 90 families disappeared into three levels of tunnels running for almost 2km, and continued to live and work while bombs rained down around them. Most of the tunnels are open to visitors and are kept in their original form (except for electric lights, a recent addition).
Ben Hai RiverMONUMENT
(museum 20,000d; h7am-4.30pm)
Once the border between North and South Vietnam, Ben Hai River’s southern bank now has a grandiose reunification monument, its stylised palm leaves oddly resembling missiles. Cua Tung Beach’s fine golden sands are just east of here. Ben Hai’s northern bank is dominated by a reconstructed flag tower and small museum full of war mementoes. Ben Hai is 22km north of Dong Ha on Hwy 1.
Truong Son National CemeteryCEMETERY
An evocative memorial to the legions of North Vietnamese soldiers who died along the Ho Chi Minh Trail, this cemetery is a sobering sight. More than 10,000 graves dot these hillsides, each marked by a simple white tombstone headed by the inscription liet si (martyr). Many graves lie empty, simply bearing names, representing a fraction of Vietnam’s 300,000 soldiers missing in action. It’s 27km northwest of Dong Ha; the turn-off from Hwy 1 is close to Doc Mieu.
Khe Sanh Combat BaseHISTORIC SITE
(museum 20,000d; h7am-5pm)
The site of the most famous siege of the American War, the USA’s Khe Sanh Combat Base was never overrun, but saw the bloodiest battle of the war. About 500 Americans, 10,000 North Vietnamese troops and uncounted civilian bystanders died around this remote highland base. It’s eerily peaceful today, but in 1968 the hillsides trembled with the impact of 1000kg bombs, white phosphorus shells, napalm, mortars and endless artillery rounds, as desperate American forces sought to repel the NVA.
GETTING TO LAOS: CENTRAL BORDERS
Vinh to Lak Sao
Getting to the border The Cau Treo–Nam Phao border (96km west of Vinh and 30km from Lak Sao in Laos) has a dodgy reputation with independent travellers. Chronic overcharging on local buses is the norm; stick to direct services. Buses leave Vinh at 6am on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday for Vieng Khan in Laos (280,000d).
At the border The border is open from 7am to 6pm; 30-day Laos visas (US$30 to US$40) are available on arrival.
Moving on On the Laos side, a jumbo or sawngthaew (small pick-up truck) between the border and Lak Sao costs about 60,000K (bargain hard).
Vinh to Phonsavan
Getting to the border The Nam Can–Nong Haet border crossing is 250km northwest of Vinh. Buses leave at 6am Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday for Luang Prabang (750,000d, 22 hours) via Phonsavan (410,000d, 12 hours).
At the border Lao visas are available for most nationalities for between US$30 and US$40.
Moving on Transport on the Laos side to Nong Haet is erratic, but once you get there you can pick up a bus to Phonsavan.
Dong Hoi to Tha Khaek
For Laos, buses leave for Vientiane daily (400,000d) and for Thakhek from Tuesday to Sunday (300,000d). Both nine-hour services run via the Cha Lo–Na Phao border crossing, where Lao visas are available. For all up-to-date transport information, see Sy at the Nam Long Hotel (%0918 923 595; www.namlonghotels.com; 22 Ð Ho Xuan Huong).
For information on doing this crossing in the opposite direction, see here.
8Getting There & Around
Virtually everyone explores the DMZ on a tour. Standard tours are cheap (around US$15 for a group day trip) and can be arranged in Hue. Most take in the Rockpile, Khe Sanh, Vinh Moc and Doc Mieu, and leave Hue at 7am, returning by about 5pm. From Hue, much more time is spent driving around 300km than sightseeing.
Tours can also be arranged in Dong Ha, at the intersection of Hwys 1 and 9 – try Tam’s Tours (%0905 425 912; http://tamscafe.jimdo.com; 211 Ð Ba Trieu, Tam’s DMZ Guesthouse & Cafe) or Annam Tour (%0905 140 600; www.annamtour.com).
A superior experience is to see the DMZ independently. Reckon on US$120 for a car and expert guide. Leaving from Dong Ha rather than Hue means less time on the road.
South-Central Vietnam
With ancient history and compelling culture, south-central Vietnam has real allure. This is an area that packs in the serene city of Hue (Vietnam’s former imperial capital), booming and energetic Danang, and Hoi An, an exquisite architectural gem that time forgot.
There’s excellent beach action at An Bang and Phu Thuan, and both Hue and Hoi An feature superb dining scenes. Feast on excellent street food, or take a cooking class so you can recreate the local flavours back home. For snorkelling and diving fans, the Cham Islands are an easy day trip from Hoi An, and history buffs can soak up the heritage ambience of My Son.
Hue
%0234 / Pop 361,000
Palaces and pagodas, tombs and temples, culture and cuisine, history and heartbreak – there’s no shortage of poetic pairings to describe the graceful city of Hue. A World Heritage Site, the capital of the Nguyen emperors is where tourists come to see opulent royal tombs and the grand, crumbling Citadel. Most of these architectural attractions lie along the northern side of the Song Huong (Perfume River). For rest and recreation the south bank is where it’s at.
The city hosts a biennial arts festival, the Festival of Hue (www.huefestival.com; hlate Apr–early May 2018 and 2020), featuring local and international artists and performers.
Hue
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
1Sights & Activities
Most of Hue’s principal sights lie within the moats of its Citadel and Imperial Enclosure. Other museums and pagodas are dotted around the city. The royal tombs are south of Hue. A good-value ‘package tour ticket’ (adult/child 360,000/70,000d) is available that includes admission to the Citadel and the tombs of Gia Long F, Khai Dinh and Minh Mang.
1Inside the Citadel
Built between 1804 and 1833, the Citadel (Kinh Thanh) is still the heart of Hue. Heavily fortified, it consists of 2m-thick, 10km-long walls, a moat (30m across and 4m deep), and 10 gateways.
The Citadel has distinct sections. The Imperial Enclosure and Forbidden Purple City (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Tu Cam Thanh) formed the epicentre of Vietnamese royal life. On the southwestern side were temple compounds. There were residences in the northwest, gardens in the northeast and, in the north, the Mang Ca Fortress (still a military base).
Note that if you’re planning to visit the Royal Tombs too, combination tickets including the Citadel and the tombs are available.
oImperial EnclosureHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/child 150,000/30,000d; h7am-5.30pm, to 10pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep)
The Imperial Enclosure is a citadel-within-a-citadel, housing the emperor’s residence, temples and palaces, and the main buildings of state, within 6m-high, 2.5km-long walls. What’s left is only a fraction of the original – the enclosure was badly bombed during the French and American Wars, and only 20 of its 148 buildings survived. This is a fascinating site easily worth half a day, but poor signage can make navigation a bit difficult. Restoration and reconstruction is ongoing.
Expect a lot of broken masonry, rubble, cracked tiling and weeds as you work your way around. Nevertheless it’s enjoyable as a leisurely stroll and some of the less-visited areas are highly atmospheric. There are little cafes and souvenir stands dotted around. It’s best to approach the sights starting from Ngo Mon Gate and moving anticlockwise around the enclosure.
Starting in 2017, from mid-April to mid-September the Citadel opens until 10pm, and visitors can enjoy a nightly program of dance and cultural performances. At the time of writing, evening openings were only being trialled, however, so check with your accommodation for the latest information. Visiting at night is an excellent option as it is cooler, and the spectacular lighting showcases the best of the historic complex.
Ngo Mon GateGATE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP) The principal entrance to the Imperial Enclosure is Ngo Mon Gate, which faces the Flag Tower. The central passageway with its yellow doors was reserved for the use of the emperor, as was the bridge across the lotus pond. Others had to use the gates to either side and the paths around the pond. On top of the gate is Ngu Phung (Belvedere of the Five Phoenixes); on its upper level is a huge drum and bell.
Thai Hoa PalacePALACE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Palace of Supreme Harmony)
This 1803 palace is a spacious hall with an ornate timber roof supported by 80 carved and lacquered columns. It was used for the emperor’s official receptions and important ceremonies. On state occasions the emperor sat on his elevated throne, facing visitors entering via the Ngo Mon Gate. No photos are permitted, but be sure to see the impressive audiovisual display, which gives an excellent overview of the entire Citadel, its architecture and the historical context.
Halls of the MandarinsHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP) Located immediately behind Thai Hoa Palace, on either side of a courtyard, these halls were used by mandarins as offices and to prepare for court ceremonies. The hall on the right showcases fascinating old photographs (including boy-king Vua Duya Tan’s coronation), gilded Buddha statues and assorted imperial curios. Behind the courtyard are the ruins of the Can Chanh Palace, where two wonderful long galleries, painted in gleaming scarlet lacquer, have been reconstructed.
Emperor’s Reading RoomHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Royal Library; Thai Binh Lau)
The exquisite (though crumbling) little two-storey Emperor’s Reading Room was the only part of the Forbidden Purple City to escape damage during the French reoccupation of Hue in 1947. The Gaudí-esque, yin-yang roof mosaics outside are in stark contrast to the sombre, recently renovated interior, the circular hallway of which you can now walk around on the small ground level. The exterior features poems by Emperor Khai Dinh on either side, and three Chinese characters that translate as ‘Emperor’s Reading Room’.
Royal TheatreHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Duyen Thi Duong; %054-351 4989; www.nhanhac.com.vn; performances 200,000d; hperformances 10.40am & 3.40pm)
The Royal Theatre, begun in 1826 and later home to the National Conservatory of Music, has been rebuilt on its former foundations. When performances aren’t on, it’s free to sit in the plush chairs or examine the fascinating display of masks and musical instruments from Vietnamese theatre, with English descriptions. Cultural performances here last 45 minutes.
Co Ha GardensGARDENS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Royal Gardens)
Occupying the northeast corner of the Imperial Enclosure, these delightful gardens were developed by the first four emperors of the Nguyen dynasty but fell into disrepair. They’ve been beautifully recreated in the last few years, and are dotted with little gazebo-style pavilions and ponds. This is one of the most peaceful spots in the entire Citadel. The latest section to be discovered, excavated and restored was completed in early 2017.
Dien Tho ResidenceHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP) The stunning, partially ruined Dien Tho Residence (1804) once comprised the apartments and audience hall of the queen mothers of the Nguyen dynasty. The audience hall houses an exhibition of photos illustrating its former use, and there is a display of embroidered royal garments. Just outside, a pleasure pavilion above a lily pond has been transformed into a cafe worthy of a refreshment stop.
oTo Mieu Temple ComplexBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP) Taking up the southwest corner of the Imperial Enclosure, this highly impressive walled complex has been beautifully restored. The imposing three-tiered Hien Lam Pavilion sits on the south side of the complex; it dates from 1824. On the other side of a courtyard is the solemn To Mieu Temple, housing shrines to each of the emperors, topped by their photos. Between these two temples are Nine Dynastic Urns (dinh) cast between 1835 and 1836, each dedicated to one Nguyen sovereign.
Nine Holy CannonsHISTORIC SITE
Located just inside the Citadel ramparts, near the gates to either side of the Flag Tower, are the Nine Holy Cannons (1804), symbolic protectors of the palace and kingdom. Commissioned by Emperor Gia Long, they were never intended to be fired. The four cannons near Ngan Gate represent the four seasons, while the five cannons next to Quang Duc Gate represent the five elements: metal, wood, water, fire and earth.
1Outside the Citadel
oThien Mu PagodaBUDDHIST TEMPLE
F Built on a hill overlooking the Song Huong (Perfume River), 4km southwest of the Citadel, this pagoda is an icon of Vietnam and as potent a symbol of Hue as the Citadel. The 21m-high octagonal tower, Thap Phuoc Duyen, was constructed under the reign of Emperor Thieu Tri in 1844. Each of its seven storeys is dedicated to a manushi-buddha (a Buddha that appeared in human form). Visit in the morning before tour groups show up.
Dieu De National PagodaBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Quoc Tu Dieu De; 102 Ð Bach Dang)F
Overlooking Dong Ba Canal, this pagoda was built under Emperor Thieu Tri’s rule (1841–47) and is famous for its four low towers, one either side of the gate and two flanking the sanctuary. The pavilions on either side of the main sanctuary entrance contain the 18 La Ha, whose rank is just below that of Bodhisattva, and the eight Kim Cang, protectors of Buddha. In the back row of the main dais is Thich Ca Buddha, flanked by two assistants.
Royal Fine Arts MuseumMUSEUM
(150 Ð Nguyen Hue; h6.30am-5.30pm summer, 7am-5pm winter)F
This recently renovated museum is located in the baroque-influenced An Dinh Palace, commissioned by Emperor Khai Dinh in 1918 and full of elaborate murals, floral motifs and trompe l’œil details. Emperor Bao Dai lived here with his family after abdicating in 1945. Inside, you’ll find some outstanding ceramics, paintings, furniture, silverware, porcelain and royal clothing, though information is a little lacking.
Night MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; h7-10pm)
This nightly market is mainly focused on local arts and crafts, but there are also simple cafes and bars perfect for a riverside snack and a drink.
DON’T MISS
ROYAL TOMBS
The tombs of the rulers of the Nguyen dynasty (1802–1945) are extravagant mausoleums, spread out along the banks of the Song Huong (Perfume River) between 2km and 16km south of Hue. Almost all were planned by the emperors during their lifetimes, and some were even used as residences while they were still alive.
Some tombs are included in boat tours, but you’ll have more time to enjoy them by hiring a bicycle, motorbike or xe om for the day. These three are particularly impressive, but there are many more:
Tomb of Tu Duc (adult/child 150,000/30,000d) This tomb, constructed between 1864 and 1867, is the most popular and impressive of the royal mausoleums. Emperor Tu Duc designed it himself to use before and after his death. The enormous expense of the tomb and the forced labour used in its construction spawned a coup plot that was discovered and suppressed. Tu Duc’s tomb is 5km south of Hue on Van Nien Hill in Duong Xuan Thuong village.
Tomb of Minh Mang (adult/child 150,000/30,000d) This majestic tomb is renowned for its architecture and sublime forest setting. The tomb was planned during Minh Mang’s reign (1820–40) but built by his successor, Thieu Tri. Minh Mang’s tomb is in An Bang village, on the west bank of the Perfume River, 12km from Hue.
Tomb of Khai Dinh (adult/child 150,000/30,000d) This hillside monument is a synthesis of Vietnamese and European elements. Most of the tomb’s grandiose exterior is covered in blackened concrete, creating an unexpectedly Gothic air, while the interiors resemble an explosion of colourful mosaic. Khai Dinh was the penultimate emperor of Vietnam, from 1916 to 1925, and widely seen as a puppet of the French. The construction of his flamboyant tomb took 11 years. The tomb of Khai Dinh is 10km from Hue in Chau Chu village.
TTours
Most hotels and travellers’ cafes offer shared tours covering the main sights (from as little as US$5 to around US$20 per person). There are many different itineraries; some of the better ones start with a morning river cruise, stopping at pagodas and temples, then after lunch you transfer to a minibus to hit the main tombs and then return to Hue by road. On the cheaper options you’ll often have to hire a motorbike to get from the moorings to the tombs, or walk (in the intense heat of the day). It’s perfectly possible to hire a xe om or your own bike and do a DIY tour.
Tran Van ThinhTOURS
(%0905 731 537; www.tranvanthinhtours.com; half-day tours from US$15 per person)
Ton That QuyTOURS
(%0935 782 533; www.facebook.com/ton.t.quy)
Quy is a friendly and trustworthy motorbike guide who can arrange scenic transfers via the Hai Van Pass to Hoi An, local sightseeing around Hue and the DMZ, and longer trips exploring all parts of Vietnam.
Stop & Go CaféDRIVING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0234-382 7051; www.stopandgo-hue.com; 3 Ð Hung Vuong)
Customised motorbike and car tours. A full-day DMZ car tour guided by a Vietnamese war veteran costs around US$30 per person for four people, representing a good deal. Guided trips to Hoi An stopping at beaches are also recommended. Note, there are similarly named, unrelated businesses at other addresses. Also has a travellers’ cafe with good food.
Café on Thu WheelsTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %054-383 2241; minhthuhue@yahoo.com; 3/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong)
Inexpensive cycle hire, and motorbike, minibus and car tours around Hue and the DMZ. Can also arrange transfers to Hoi An by motorbike (US$45) or car (US$55). The establishment also serves a small selection of burgers, sandwiches and local dishes.
Hue FlavorFOOD & DRINK
(%0905 937 006; www.hueflavor.com; per person US$49)
Excellent street-food tours exploring the delights of Hue cuisine. Transport is by cyclo and around 15 different dishes are sampled across four hours.
Hue Free Walking TourWALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0935 616 090; www.beebeetravel.com; 9 Ð Pham Nhu Lao, Le’s Garden; h10am)
Daily tours – donate what you wish at the tour’s end – and also other paid tours exploring Hue food and the city’s imperial history.
4Sleeping
Home HotelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0234-383 0014; www.huehomehotel.com; 8 Ð Nguyen Cong Tru; r US$17-25; aiW)
Run by a really friendly team, the welcoming Home Hotel has a young, hip vibe, and spacious rooms arrayed across several levels. Ask to book a room looking over Ð Nguyen Cong Tru for a compact balcony, French doors and views of the river. No lift.
Beach Bar HueHOTEL$
(%0908 993 584; www.beachbarhue.com; Phu Thuan Beach; dm US$9-12; nW)
At glorious Phu Thuan Beach (about 7km southeast of Thuan An), the Beach Bar Hue has excellent shared four-bed bungalows and sits pretty on a sublime stretch of sand (with no hawkers…for now). There’s a funky bamboo-and-thatch bar for drinks and snacks.
Poetic Hue HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0918 342 138; www.poetichuehostel.com; 24/26 Ð Vo Thi Sau; dm/d/f from US$7/13/25; naW)
This spotless recent opening in a whitewashed villa in a quiet back lane is a good alternative to Hue’s other busier and more social hostels. Local families and birdsong give the location a neighbourhood ambience, and the rooms are spacious and relaxing. Good eating – including Hue’s famous royal rice cakes – is just metres away. Some rooms have balconies.
Hue BackpackersHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0234-382 6567; www.vietnambackpackerhostels.com; 10 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; incl breakfast dm US$8-12/r US$18; aiW)
Backpackers’ mecca thanks to its central location, eager-to-please staff, good info and sociable bar-restaurant that hosts happy hour and big sporting events. Dorms are well designed, and have air-conditioning and lockers.
Canary Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0906 416 331; http://canaryboutiquehotel.com; Lane 8, 43 Ð Nguyen Cong Tru; r US$16-24; naiW)
You don’t need a bath-tub. Then again, with a budget price for such cleanliness, professional staff, a great breakfast menu with free seconds, and competitively priced tours, a bath-tub is just the cherry on top after a long day at the Citadel or nearby bars. If you can’t find the hotel’s small lane, enquire at the sister Canary Hotel on the main road.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
TOMBS & DUNES
From the centre of Hue it’s only 15km north to the coast, the road shadowing the Perfume River before you hit the sands of Thuan An Beach. Southeast from here there’s a beautiful, quiet coastal road to follow with very light traffic (so it’s ideal for bikers). The route traverses a narrow coastal island, with views of the Tam Giang-Cau Hai lagoon on the inland side, and stunning sandy beaches and dunes on the other. This coastal strip is virtually undeveloped, but between September and March the water’s often too rough for swimming.
From Thuan An the road winds past villages alternating between shrimp lagoons and vegetable gardens. Thousands of garishly colourful and opulent graves and family temples line the beach, most the final resting places of Viet Kieu (overseas Vietnamese) who wanted to be buried in their homeland. Tracks cut through the tombs and sand dunes to the beach. Pick a spot and you’ll probably have a beach to yourself.
At glorious Phu Thuan Beach (about 7km southeast of Thuan An) are the funky Beach Bar Hue and charming Villa Louise (%0917 673 656; www.villalouisehue.com; Phu Thuan beach; d US$75-149, villas US$140-244; aWs). The restaurant and beach can be used by outside guests – there’s an entrance fee of 100,000d, which can be offset against food and beverage purchases in the beachfront bar. For 250,000d per person, guests can also use the lovely pool area at Villa Louise. A taxi from Hue to Phu Thuan is around 250,000d and a xe om (motorbike taxi) around 100,000d. Ask at backpacker hostels in Hue about occasional shared shuttles to Beach Bar Hue.
Around 8km past Beach Bar Hue, the remains of Phu Dien, a small Cham temple, lie protected by a glass pavilion in the dunes just off the beach. There are seafood shacks here too.
Continuing southeast, a narrow paved road weaves past fishing villages, shrimp farms, giant sand dunes and the settlement of Vinh Hung until it reaches the mouth of another river estuary at Thuon Phu An, where there’s a row of seafood restaurants. This spot is 40km from Thuan An. Cross the Tu Hien Bridge here and you can continue around the eastern lip of the huge Cau Hai lagoon and link up with Hwy 1.
5Eating
Hue’s culinary variety is amazing, with many unique local dishes, including lots of veggie creations. Royal rice cakes, the most common of which is banh khoai, are well worth seeking out.
oHanh RestaurantVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0905 520 512; 11 Pho Duc Chinh; meals 30,000-100,000d; h10am-9pm)
Newbies to Hue specialities should start at this busy restaurant. Order the five-dish set menu (120,000d) for a speedy lesson of banh khoai (savoury prawn pancakes), banh beo (steamed rice cakes topped with shrimp and spring onions), and divine nem lui (grilled pork on lemongrass skewers) wrapped in rice paper and herbs. Ask the patient staff how to devour everything.
Hang Me MeVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 16 Ð Vo Thi Sau; meals from 40,000d; h8am-11pm; v)
A top, unfussy spot to try Hue’s dizzying menu of royal rice cakes. Serving portions are pretty big, so rustle up a few friends to try the different variations. Our favourite is the banh beo, perfect little mouthfuls topped with spring onions and dried shrimp.
Com HenVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 17 Ð Han Mac Tu; meals from 10,000d; h7am-11pm)
Tuck into bowls of rice (com hen) or noodles (bun hen) combining fresh herbs and tasty local clams from a nearby island in the middle of the Song Huong.
Lien HoaVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %054-381 2456; 3 Ð Le Quy Don; meals 50,000-80,000d; h6.30am-9pm; v)
No-nonsense Viet vegetarian restaurant renowned for filling food at bargain prices. Fresh banh beo, noodle dishes, crispy fried jackfruit and aubergine with ginger all deliver. The menu has very rough English translations to help you order (staff speak little or no English).
Nook Cafe & BarVIETNAMESE, CAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0935 069 741; www.facebook.com/nookcafebarhue; 7/34 Ð Nguyen Tri Phuong; meals 50,000-120,000d; h8am-10pm; Wv)
Tucked away near a tangle of cheaper accommodation and travel agencies, Nook’s breezy upstairs location is a good spot for well-executed Vietnamese dishes and Western comfort food like veggie burgers and toasted sandwiches. Top marks for the quirky decor, good music, and refreshing juices and smoothies.
Mandarin CaféVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %054-382 1281; www.mrcumandarin.com; 24 Ð Tran Cao Van; meals 25,000-69,000d; h6am-10pm; Wv)
Owner-photographer Mr Cu, whose inspirational pictures adorn the walls, has been hosting backpackers for years, and his relaxed restaurant has lots of vegetarian and breakfast choices. Also operates as a tour agency for in and outside of Hue.
SPLURGE
A short walk from good restaurants, the Hue Riverside Villa (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0905 771 602; www.hueriversidevilla.com; 16/7 Ð Nguyen Cong Tru; r $45-60; naW) combines five whitewashed and red-brick bungalows with a relaxing shared garden and a quiet, absolute edge-of-the-river location. Decor is crisp and modern – adorned with warm timber, the bathrooms are especially pleasant – and the switched-on English-speaking owner offers tours and plenty of local information.
6Drinking & Nightlife
DMZ TravelBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.dmz.com.vn; 60 Ð Le Loi; h7am-1am; W)
Ever-popular bar near the river with a free pool table, cold Huda beer, cocktails (try a watermelon mojito) and antics most nights. Also serves Western and local food till midnight, plus smoothies and juices. Happy hour is 3pm to 8pm. Check out the upside-down map of the DMZ – complete with a US chopper – on the ceiling of the bar.
Ta VetBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0914 833 679; 11 Ð Vo Thi Sau; h6.30am-1am; W)
One part beer bar and one part cafe, this spacious spot with rustic wooden furniture, a short walk from Hue’s backpacker strip, is a good location to meet younger English-speaking locals. There’s a decent beer selection beyond the usual suspects, and the Vietnamese food is also affordable and tasty.
Café on Thu WheelsBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %054-383 2241; lnhin60@yahoo.com; 3/34 Ð Nguyen Tri Phuong; h7am-11pm; W)
Graffiti-splattered walls, a sociable vibe, excellent food and smoothies all combine at this welcoming spot owned by a friendly family. It also offers good tours, and has books and mags to browse.
7Shopping
Hue produces the finest conical hats in Vietnam and is renowned for rice paper and silk paintings. As ever, bargain hard. Also check out the city’s riverside night market.
Spiral Foundation Healing the Wounded Heart CenterARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0234-381 7643; www.spiralfoundation.org; 23 Ð Vo Thi Sau; h8am-10pm)
Generating cash from trash, this shop stocks lovely handicrafts – such as quirky bags made from plastic, and picture frames made from recycled beer cans – all crafted by artists with disabilities. Profits aid heart surgery for children in need.
Dong Ba MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Ð Tran Hung Dao; h6.30am-8pm)
Just north of Trang Tien Bridge, this is Hue’s largest market, selling anything and everything.
8Information
Wi-fi is very widespread at cafes, bars and accommodation.
Hue Central Hospital (Benh Vien Trung Uong Hue; %0234-382 2325; 16 Ð Le Loi; h6am-10pm) Well-regarded local hospital.
Post Office (8 Ð Hoang Hoa Tham; h7am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) A short walk from Hue’s main street.
Sinh Tourist (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0234-384 5022; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 37 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; h6.30am-8.30pm) Books open-tour buses, and buses to Laos and many other destinations in Vietnam.
GETTING TO LAOS: DONG HA TO SAVANNAKHET
Getting to the border The Lao Bao–Dansavanh border crossing, on the Sepon River (Song Xe Pon), is one of the most popular and least problematic border crossings between Laos and Vietnam. Buses to Savannakhet in Laos run from Hue via Dong Ha and Lao Bao. From Hue, there’s a daily 7am air-conditioned bus (350,000d, 9½ hours) that stops at the Dong Ha bus station around 9.30am to pick up more passengers. It’s also easy to cross the border on your own; Dong Ha is the gateway. Buses leave the town to Lao Bao (60,000d, two hours) roughly every 15 minutes. From here xe om charge 15,000d to the border. You can check schedules and book tickets at Tam’s DMZ Cafe & Guesthouse (%0905 425 912; http://tamscafe.jimdo.com; 211 Ð Ba Trieu; s/d/tr US$7/10/15; aW). Tam’s also book tickets to Vientiane (14 hours), Thakhek (10 hours) and Pakse (10 hours). It’s not possible to cross on motorbikes from Vietnam at the Lao Bao border.
At the border The border posts (7am to 6pm) are a few hundred metres apart. Lao visas are available on arrival, but Vietnamese visas need to be arranged in advance. There are several serviceable hotels on the Vietnamese side. Try not to change currency in Lao Bao: money changers offer terrible rates.
Moving on Sawngthaew head regularly to Sepon, from where you can get a bus or another sawngthaew to Savannakhet.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Jetstar (www.jetstar.com) and VietJet (www.vietjetair.com) offer flights to/from HCMC. Vietnam Airlines (%0234-382 4709; www.vietnamairlines.com; 23 Ð Nguyen Van Cu; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) has services to/from Hanoi and HCMC.
TRAINS FROM HUE
The Hue train station (%0234-382 2175; 2 Ð Phan Chu Trinh) is at the southwestern end of Ð Le Loi. A taxi here from the hotel area costs about 70,000d.
| DESTINATION | COST (US$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Danang | 4-8 | 2½-4 | 7 daily |
| Dong Hoi | 5-11 | 3-5½ | 7 daily |
| Hanoi | 25-42 | 12-15½ | 6 daily |
| HCMC | 33-55 | 19½-23 | 5 daily |
| Ninh Binh | 19-35 | 10-13 | 5 daily |
BUS
The main bus station, 4km southeast of the centre, has connections to Danang and south to HCMC. An Hoa bus station (Hwy 1), northwest of the Citadel, serves northern destinations.
For Phong Nha (around 135,000d, five hours), the Hung Thanh open-tour bus leaves 49 Ð Chu Van An at 4.30pm, and the Tan Nhat bus leaves from the Why Not? Bar on Ð Vo Thi Sau around 6.30am. Also convenient is a daily bus (150,000d) leaving the DMZ Travel bar in Hue at 2pm. This departure travels directly to Phong Nha, but there is also the option of incorporating a tour of the DMZ en route.
Hue is a regular stop on open-tour bus routes. Most drop off and pick up passengers at central hotels. Expect some hassle from persistent hotel touts when you arrive.
Mandarin Cafe, Sinh Tourist and Stop & Go Café can arrange bookings for buses to Savannakhet, Laos.
BUSES FROM HUE
| DESTINATION | COST (D) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Danang | 80,000 | 3 | frequent |
| Dong Ha | 44,000 | 2 | every 30 minutes |
| Dong Hoi | 100,000 | 4 | frequent |
| Hanoi | 320,000 | 13-16 | 9 daily |
| HCMC | 500,000 | 19-24 | 9 daily |
| Ninh Binh | 270,000 | 10½-12 | 8 daily |
8Getting Around
Bicycles (US$3), motorbikes (US$5 to US$10) and cars (from US$50 per day) can be hired through hotels all over town. Mai Linh (%0234-389 8989) has taxis with meters. Cyclos and xe om will fi nd you whether you need them or not.
Danang
%0236 / Pop 1,052,000
Nowhere in Vietnam is changing as fast as Danang. For decades it had a reputation as a provincial backwater, but big changes are ongoing. The Han riverfront is resplendent with gleaming hotels, bustling restaurants and spectacular bridges. Beachside, five-star hotel developments are emerging, and Danang has a great street-food scene.
Except for a decent museum, the city itself has few conventional sightseeing spots, but it’s a fun city and a couple of days of eating well and enjoying the beach are recommended before or after visiting Hoi An, less than an hour down the coast.
1Sights
oDragon BridgeBRIDGE
(Cau Rong; h24hr)F
Welcome to the biggest show in town every Saturday and Sunday night. At 9pm, this impressive dragon sculpture spouts fire and water from its head near the Han River’s eastern bank. The best observation spots are the cafes lining the eastern bank to the north of the bridge; boat trips taking in the action also depart from Ð Bach Dang on the river’s western bank. The colour-changing Dragon Bridge sees selfie-takers parking their scooters on the bridge every night.
oMuseum of Cham SculptureMUSEUM
(Bao Tang; 1 Ð Trung Nu Vuong; 40,000d; h7am-5pm)
This fine, small museum has the world’s largest collection of Cham artefacts, housed in buildings marrying French-colonial architecture with Cham elements. Founded in 1915 by the École Française d’Extrême Orient, it displays more than 300 pieces including altars, lingas (stylised phalluses that represent Shiva), garudas (griffin-like sky beings), apsaras (heavenly nymphs), Ganeshes and images of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu, all dating from the 5th to 15th centuries. Explanations are slim. To hire an MP3 audio guide (20,000d), you’ll need to show ID – passport or driving licence – or leave a refundable US$50 bond.
TTours
Danang Free Walking TourWALKING
(%0905 631 419; www.danangfreewalkingtour.com; 108 Ð Bach Dang; h9am & 3pm)
Run by local English-speaking students, these walking tours are a good introduction to the city. Donate what you think is appropriate at the end of the tour, and maybe sign up for one of the other (paid) specialised tours, including street food. Tours leave from the Danang Visitor Centre, and booking ahead is recommended.
Danang Food TourFOOD & DRINK
(www.danangfoodtour.com; per person US$45)
Excellent morning and evening explorations of the local food scene by passionate foodies. Check the website for the great blog on the best of Danang.
Hoi An Jeep AdventuresTOURS
(%0905 101 930; www.vietnamjeeps.com; per person from US$96)
Based in nearby Hoi An, but also offering jeep explorations of Danang’s street-food and after-dark scenes. Other Danang options are discovering Monkey Mountain by jeep or a day trip to the Hai Van Pass. Look forward to really interesting street-food discoveries for curious travelling foodies.
WORTH A TRIP
BACH MA NATIONAL PARK
A French-era hill station known for its cool weather, Bach Ma National Park (Vuon Quoc Gia Bach Ma; %0234-387 1330; www.bachmapark.com.vn; adult/child 40,000/20,000d) is 45km southeast of Hue. There’s some decent trekking in the lower levels through subtropical forest to villages on the fringes of the park. You can book village and birdwatching tours and English- or French-speaking guides (500,000d per day) at the visitor centre. Unexploded ordnance is still in the area, so stick to the trails.
There’s a guesthouse (%054-387 1330; www.bachmapark.com.vn; campsite per person 20,000d, r 300,000d) at the park entrance.
4Sleeping
Recent openings have improved Danang’s range of budget accommodation, both in the city, and also east across the Han River nearer the beach.
Memory HostelHOSTEL$
(%0236-374 7797; http://memoryhostel.com; 3 Ɖ Tran Quoc Toan; dm US$7-8; aW)
Sweet memories are made of casual strolls to the Dragon Bridge, good restaurants and nightlife, all near this hostel. If you just want to stay in, the decor is arty, eclectic and clean, and beds have privacy curtains. An excellent budget option.
Barney’s HostelHOSTEL$
(%0126 520 6103; www.barneyhostel.com; 169 Ð Tran Hung Dao; dm US$8-10; aW)
With a quieter northern location near the river’s eastern bank, Barney’s gets good reviews from travellers for its combination of modern and spotless rooms, and a great little bar and restaurant. Tours and onward transport can be booked, and it can also hook up travellers with scooters (half/full day 80,000/120,000d) for getting out and about to the nearby Son Tra peninsula.
Funtastic Danang HostelHOSTEL$
(%0236-389 2024; www.funtasticdanang.com; 115 Ð Hai Phong; dm US$6.50, d & tw US$19; aiW)
Danang’s original specialist hostel is a goodie, with young and energetic owners, colourful rooms and dorms, and a comfortable lounge area for when all you want to do is chill and watch a movie. Ask about the street food tours (%0905 272 921; www.funtasticdanang.com; per person US$45).
Frangipani Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%0236-393 8368; www.frangipaniboutiquehotel.com; 8 Nguyen Huu Thong; d US$45-50; naiWs)
With just 11 rooms, and stylish shared areas, the Frangipani is more like a classy European guesthouse. Rooms are spacious and modern with elegant decor, and it’s just a short stroll to the sands of Danang Beach. A small indoor pool is available downstairs, bicycles are free to use, and there’s also a pleasant on-site restaurant with courtyard seating.
5Eating & Drinking
oTaco NgonTACOS$
(%0906 504 284; www.facebook.com/tacongon; 2 My Da Dong 8; tacos 35,000d; h10.30am-10pm Tue-Sun)
Worth seeking out down a quiet lane, this spot with just a few tables serves up quite possibly Vietnam’s best tacos. Cool down with a bargain-priced can of La Rue beer and tuck into fusion flavour combos like pork with wasabi coleslaw, fish with ginger and lime, or chicken with a tamarind barbecue sauce. Tequila shots are just 25,000d. Dangerous…
BBQ Un InBARBECUE, VIETNAMESE$$
(%0236-654 5357; www.bbqunin.com; 379 Ð Tran Hung Dao; meals 100,000-210,000d; h11.30am-10.30pm)
Vietnamese flavours and American barbecue combine at this fun new opening along the fast-expanding restaurant strip on the Han River’s eastern bank. Shipping containers daubed with colourful street art provide the backdrop for fall-off-the-bone ribs, spicy grilled sausages, and hearty side dishes including sweetcorn and grilled pineapple. Order up a good-value beer tower if you’re dining in a group.
Happy HeartINTERNATIONAL$$
(%0236-388 8384; www.facebook.com/happyheartdanang; 9 Ð Ly Tu Trong; meals 95,000-160,000d; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; Wv) S
Hearing-impaired wait staff deliver brilliant service at this cafe that helps to provide opportunities for people with disabilities in Danang. The food’s also excellent with Western comfort food including burgers, lasagne and a terrific breakfast burrito. Good coffee and fruit-and-yoghurt smoothies are other fine reasons to linger.
Minsk BarBAR
(59 Ngo Thi Si; h8am-2am; W)
Traditionally a hangout of expats negotiating Russian Minsk motorbikes around Vietnam, the Minsk Bar has now evolved to also include a more local customer base. Loping reggae beats are often the preferred soundtrack of choice, and the rustic corner location is a great place to hang out. Nearby, An Thong 4 St has an expanding range of interesting dining options.
8Information
Consult www.danangexperience.com and www.indanang.com for reviews and local information.
Danang Family Medical Practice (%0236-358 2700; www.vietnammedicalpractice.com; 50-52 Ð Nguyen Van Linh; h7am-6pm) With in-patient facilities; run by an Australian doctor.
Danang Visitor Centre (%0236-389 8196; www.tourism.danang.vn; 32a Ð Phan Dinh Phung; h7.30am-9pm) Really helpful, with English spoken, and good maps and brochures. Danang’s official tourism website is one of Vietnam’s best. Bicycles can be hired for venturing across the bridge to Danang’s beaches.
Sinh Tourist (%0511-384 3258; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 16 Ð 3 Thang 2; h7am-10pm) Books open-tour buses and tours.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Danang’s busy airport, 2km west of the city centre, has international flights to cities including Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong and Singapore.
Domestic services to HCMC, Hanoi, Dalat, Nha Trang, Can Tho and Haiphong are operated by Vietnam Airlines (%0236-382 1130; www.vietnamairlines.com), VietJet Air (http://bookvietjetair.com) and Jetstar.
BUS
Danang’s intercity bus station (%0236-382 1265; Ð Dien Bien Phu) is 3km west of the city centre. A metered taxi to the riverside will cost around 90,000d. Frequent buses leave for all major centres including Dong Hoi (140,000d, six hours), Hanoi (320,000d, 16 hours), HCMC (400,000d, 22 hours), Hue (60,000d, three hours), and Nha Trang (250,000d, 12 hours).
Yellow public buses to Hoi An (20,000d, one hour, every 30 minutes to 6pm) travel along Ð Bach Dang. The price is usually posted inside the door; check it if you think the bus driver is attempting to overcharge.
Sinh Tourist open-tour buses pick up from the company office in the northern part of downtown twice daily to both Hue (90,000d, 2½ hours) and Hoi An (80,000d, one hour). Sinh Tourist can also advise on travel to Laos.
SPLURGE
The stylish restaurant and lounge bar Fatfish (%0236-394 5707; www.fatfishdanang.com; 439 Ð Tran Hung Dao; meals 110,000-330,000d; h11am-10pm; W) is leading the eating and drinking charge across the river on the Han’s eastern shore. Innovative Asian fusion dishes, pizza and wood-fired barbecue all partner with flavour-packed craft beers from Ho Chi Minh City’s Pasteur Street Brewing (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.pasteurstreet.com). Fatfish is good for a few snacks or a more leisurely full meal.
TAXI & MOTORCYCLE
A car to Hoi An costs around 550,000d via your hotel or a local travel agency; a xe om will cost around 150,000d. Shared shuttle buses are a good budget option at around 300,000d, and can be booked through hotels.
TRAIN
Danang’s train station (202 Ð Hai Phong) has services to all destinations on the north–south main line. The train ride to Hue is one of the best in the country – it’s worth taking as an excursion in itself for the stunning coastline
Around Danang
About 10km south of Danang are the striking Marble Mountains, which consist of five craggy marble outcrops topped with jungle and pagodas. With natural caves sheltering small Hindu and Buddhist sanctuaries and stunning views of the ocean and surrounding countryside, they’re worth taking the time to explore. Thuy Son (15,000d; h7am-5pm) is the largest and most famous of the five mountains.
Danang Beach (Bai Non Nuoc), once an R’n’R hangout for US soldiers during the war, is actually a series of beaches stretching 30km between Hoi An and Danang.
For surfers, Danang Beach’s break gets a decent swell from mid-September to December. There’s a mean undertow, so take care.
Hoi An
%0235 / Pop 134,000
Graceful, historic Hoi An is Vietnam’s most atmospheric and delightful town. Once a major port, it boasts the grand architecture and beguiling riverside setting that befits its heritage, and the 21st-century curses of traffic and pollution are almost entirely absent.
The face of the Old Town has preserved its incredible legacy of tottering Japanese merchant houses, Chinese temples and ancient tea warehouses – though, of course, residents and rice fields have been gradually replaced by tourist businesses. Lounge bars, boutique hotels, travel agents and a glut of tailor shops are very much part of the scene here. And yet, down by the market and over on Cam Nam Island, you’ll find life has changed little. Travel a few kilometres further – you’ll find some superb bicycle, motorbike and boat trips – and some of central Vietnam’s most enticingly laid-back scenery and beaches are within easy reach.
1Sights
1Hoi An Old Town
A Unesco World Heritage Site (www.hoianworldheritage.org.vn), Hoi An Old Town levies an admission fee to most of its historic buildings, which goes towards funding the preservation of the town’s architecture. Buying the ticket (120,000d) gives you a choice of five heritage sites to visit – Chinese Assembly Halls, pagodas and temples, historic houses and museums. Booths dotted around the Old Town sell tickets. Tickets are valid for 10 days. You won’t normally be checked if you’re just dining or shopping in the area, but keep your ticket with you just in case.
oJapanese Covered BridgeBRIDGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Cau Nhat Ban; admission by Old Town ticket; h24hr)
This beautiful little bridge is emblematic of Hoi An. A bridge was first constructed here in the 1590s by the Japanese community to link it with the Chinese quarters. Over the centuries the ornamentation has remained relatively faithful to the original Japanese design. The French flattened out the roadway for cars, but the original arched shape was restored in 1986. The bridge is due for a complete removal for repair, so check it’s open before you travel, if making a special trip.
Assembly Hall of the Fujian Chinese CongregationTEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Phuc Kien Hoi Quan; opposite 35 Ð Tran Phu; admission by Old Town ticket; h7am-5.30pm) S
Originally a traditional assembly hall, this structure was later transformed into a temple for the worship of Thien Hau, a deity from Fujian province. The green-tiled triple gateway dates from 1975. The mural on the right-hand wall depicts Thien Hau, her way lit by lantern light as she crosses a stormy sea to rescue a foundering ship. Opposite is a mural of the heads of the six Fujian families who fled from China to Hoi An in the 17th century.
oTan Ky HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 101 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; admission by Old Town ticket; h8am-noon & 2-4.30pm)
Built two centuries ago by an ethnically Vietnamese family, this gem of a house has been lovingly preserved through seven generations. Look out for signs of Japanese and Chinese influences on the architecture. Japanese elements include the ceiling (in the sitting area), which is supported by three progressively shorter beams, one on top of the other. Under the crab-shell ceiling are carvings of crossed sabres wrapped in silk ribbon. The sabres symbolise force; the silk represents flexibility.
Tran Family ChapelHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 21 Ð Le Loi; admission by Old Town ticket; h7.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm)
Built for worshipping family ancestors, this chapel dates back to 1802. It was commissioned by Tran Tu, one of the clan who ascended to the rank of mandarin and served as an ambassador to China. His picture is to the right of the chapel. The architecture of the building reflects the influence of Chinese (the ‘turtle’ style roof), Japanese (triple beam) and vernacular (look out for the bow-and-arrow detailing) styles.
Precious HeritageMUSEUM, GALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0235 6558 382; www.facebook.com/precious.heritage.museum.art.gallery; 26 Ð Phan Boi Chau; h8.30am-8.30pm)F
The latest project from Hoi An–based French photographer Réhahn, this cross between a museum and a gallery combines his superb photos of Vietnam’s hill tribes with artefacts and clothing he collected from each group during his wide-ranging travels in remote areas. If you’re planning on visiting the north of the country or the Central Highlands, Precious Heritage is an essential detour.
Museum of Trading CeramicsMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 80 Ð Tran Phu; admission by Old Town ticket; h7am-5.30pm)
Occupies a restored wooden house and contains a small collection of artefacts from all over Asia, with oddities from as far afield as Egypt. While this reveals that Hoi An had some rather impressive trading links, it takes an expert’s eye to appreciate the display. The exhibition on the restoration of Hoi An’s old houses provides a useful crash course in Old Town architecture.
Arts & Crafts Villages
All those neat fake antiques sold in Hoi An’s shops are manufactured in nearby villages. Cross the An Hoi footbridge to reach the An Hoi Peninsula, noted for boat building and mat weaving. Cam Kim Island is renowned for its woodcarvers. Cross the Cam Nam bridge to Cam Nam village, a lovely spot also noted for arts and crafts.
2Activities
Two reputable dive schools, Cham Island Diving Center (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0235-391 0782; www.vietnamscubadiving.com; 88 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; snorkelling day trips US$44, overnight snorkelling/diving trips US$82/112) and Blue Coral Diving (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0235-627 9297; www.divehoian.com; 33 Ð Trung Hung Dao) offer trips to the Cham Islands. Many dive schools charge almost exactly the same rates: two fun dives are US$80. The diving is not world class, but can be intriguing, with good macro life – and the day trip to the Cham Islands is superb. Snorkellers pay about US$40. Trips only leave between February and September; conditions are best in June, July and August.
Eat Hoi AnFOOD & DRINK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Coconut Tours; %0905 411 184; www.eathoian.com; 37 Ð Phan Chau Trinh; per person US$45)
Lots of really authentic cuisine and the infectious enthusiasm of host Phuoc make this an excellent choice if you really want to explore the grassroots local street-food scene. Be prepared for lots of different foods and flavours; check the website for details of cooking classes held in Phuoc’s home village.
Grasshopper AdventuresCYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0932 034 286; www.grasshopperadventures.com; 62 Ð Hai Ba Trung; per person US$37-47)
Highly recommended biking tours on very well-maintained bikes. Options include a daytime countryside tour and an excellent sunset food tour. Longer multiday tours exploring Vietnam are also available.
C Courses
Green Bamboo Cooking SchoolCOOKING
(%0905 815 600; www.greenbamboo-hoian.com; 21 Ð Truong Minh Hung, Cam An; per person US$45)
Directed by Van, a charming local chef and English-speaker, these courses are more personalised than most. Groups are limited to a maximum of 10, and classes take place in Van’s spacious kitchen. Choose what to cook from a diverse menu including vegetarian choices. It’s 5km east of the centre, near Cu Dai beach; transport from Hoi An is included.
Herbs and SpicesCOOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0235-393 6868; www.herbsandspicesvn.com; 2/6 Ð Le Loi; per person US$35-58; h10.30am, 4.30pm & 8pm)
Excellent classes with three different options, and smaller, more hands-on groups than some other cookery classes.
4Sleeping
Lazy Bear HostelHOSTEL$
(%0905 025 491; www.facebook.com/lazybearhostel; 12 Ð Tran Quuc Toan; dm/d US$8/20; aW)
This small family-owned hostel has a good location – the Old Town and Cua Dai beach are both around 2.5km away – and lots of free inclusions, such as breakfast, bicycles and the occasional bar crawl and food tour. A relaxing garden and modern bathrooms in the private en-suite rooms seal the deal at one of Hoi An’s best-value accommodation options.
Hoi An Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$
(%0235-391 4400; www.vietnambackpackerhostels.com; 252 Ð Cua Dai; dm/tw/d incl breakfast US$12/40/40; naiWs)
Purpose-built and brand new, this is the spectacular Hoi An location for a hostel empire spanning Vietnam. Accommodation ranges from dorms to private en-suite rooms. There’s a poolside bar and restaurant, and plenty of quiet common areas for some private time. Location-wise, you’re handily placed between the Old Town and the beach, and bikes are available to hire for exploring.
oNu Ni HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0235-392 7979; www.nunihomestayhoian.com; 131/12 Ð Tran Hung Dao; d/tr/f US$20/28/36; naW)
Hidden down a quiet lane just north of the Old Town, the Nu Ni Homestay has spacious and sparkling new rooms – some with large balconies – and a real can-do attitude from the friendly family owners. Flat screen TVs, modern bathrooms and a comfortable shared downstairs area all make Nu Ni a great choice. Breakfast is additional.
Pham Gia Boutique HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0914 085 075; www.phamgiahoian.com; 73/1 Phan Dinh Phung; d/ste from US$35/42; naW)
Another excellent homestay, Pham Gia easily edges into the boutique guesthouse category. Blending colonial and local design, rooms are spacious and sunny, and the friendly owner is a Hoi An local with plenty of experience in the travel industry. Bikes are provided free of charge, and both the Old Town and An Bang Beach are just a short ride away.
5Eating
Hoi An offers a culinary tour de force, including several amazing local specialities. Be sure to try banh beo (‘white rose’), an incredibly delicate dish of steamed dumplings stuffed with minced shrimp. Cao lau – doughy flat noodles mixed with croutons, bean sprouts and greens, topped with pork slices and served in a savoury broth – is also delicious. The other two culinary treats are fried hoanh thanh (wonton) and banh xeo (savoury pancakes rolled with herbs in fresh rice paper).
Banh Mi PhuongVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 2b Ð Phan Chu Trinh; banh mi 20,000-30,000d)
What makes the banh mi at this cramped joint draw the crowds? It’s the dense, chewy bread, the freshness of the greens and the generous serves of thit nuong (chargrilled pork), beef or other meat that seals the deal. A celebrity-chef endorsement helps too.
CocoboxCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://fb.me/cocoboxvietnam; 94 Ð Le Loi; juices & smoothies 60,000-75,000d; h7am-10pm)
Refreshing cold-press juices are the standout at this compact combo of cafe and deli. Our favourite is the Watermelon Man juice combining watermelon, passionfruit, lime and mint. Coffee, salads and snacks are also good – try the chicken pesto sandwich. The attached ‘farm shop’ sells Vietnamese artisan produce including local honey and cider from Ho Chi Minh City.
Nu EateryFUSION$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/NuEateryHoiAn; 10a Ð Nguyen Thị Minh Khai; meals 90,000d; hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat)
Don’t be deceived by the humble decor at this compact eatery tucked away near the Japanese Bridge. There’s a real wow factor to the seasonal small plates at this Hoi An favourite. Combine the pork-belly steamed buns with a salad of grilled pineapple, coconut and pomelo, and don’t miss the homemade lemongrass, ginger or chilli ice cream.
oCargo ClubINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0235-391 1227; www.msvy-tastevietnam.com/cargo-club; 107 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; meals 70,000-160,000d; h8am-11pm; W)
Remarkable cafe-restaurant, serving Vietnamese and Western food, with a terrific riverside location (the upper terrace has stunning views). A relaxing day here munching your way around the menu would be a day well spent. The breakfasts are legendary (try the eggs Benedict), the patisserie and cakes are superb, and fine-dining dishes and good cocktails also deliver.
Hola TacoMEXICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/pg/holataco; 9 Ð Phan Chau Trinh; snacks & meals 75,0000-160,000d; h11am-10pm; Wv)
Mexican flavours come to Hoi An at the excellent Hola Taco. The standouts are the tacos and enchiladas, both well spiced and ideal with a couple of Tiger beers or frosty margaritas. Here you’ll find some of Hoi An’s most colourful food and decent options for vegetarians.
Little MenuVIETNAMESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.thelittlemenu.com; 12 Ð Le Loi; meals 60,000-150,000d; h9.30am-11pm; W) S
English-speaking owner Son is a fantastic host at this popular little restaurant with an open kitchen and short menu – try the fish in banana leaf or duck spring rolls, which feature on the set menu (225,000d). Almost all of the ingredients are strictly local from around Hoi An.
6Drinking & Nightlife
3 DragonsPUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/3Dragonshoian; 51 Ð Phan Boi Chau; h8am-midnight; W)
Half sports bar (where you can watch everything from Aussie Rules to Indian cricket) and half restaurant (burgers, steaks and local food).
Espresso StationCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0905 691 164; www.facebook.com/TheEspressoStation; 28/2 Ð Tran Hung Dao; coffee 30,000-50,000d; h7.30am-5pm; W)
A slice of Melbourne-style coffee culture – albeit in a heritage Hoi An residence – the Espresso Station is where to go for the best flat whites and cold-brew coffees in town. There’s a compact food menu with granola, muesli and sandwiches; relaxing in the arty courtyard is where you’ll want to be.
STAY SAFE
Hoi An is one of Vietnam’s safer towns, but there are infrequent stories of late-night bag-snatching, pickpockets and (very occasionally) assaults on women. If you are a lone female, it may be advisable to walk home with somebody you know. Many street lights are turned off from 9.30pm. There have also been reports of drinks being spiked in some bars, so keep a close eye on your glass. It’s also a good idea to call for a taxi when leaving a bar and not relying on the local xe om mafia.
7Shopping
Tailor-made clothing is one of Hoi An’s best trades, and there are more than 200 tailor shops in town that can whip up suits, shirts, dresses and much more.
oVillagecraft PlanetARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/VillagecraftPlanet; 59 Ð Phan Boi Chau; h10am-6pm) S
Shop here for interesting homewares and fashion, often using natural hemp and indigo, and crafted with fair-trade practices by the Hmong, Black Thai and Lolo ethnic minority people in the north of Vietnam.
oReaching OutSOUVENIRS, CLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.reachingoutvietnam.com; 103 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; h8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-8.30pm Sat & Sun) S
Excellent fair-trade gift shop that stocks good-quality silk scarves, clothes, jewellery, hand-painted Vietnamese hats, handmade toys and teddy bears. The shop employs and supports artisans with disabilities, and staff are happy to show visitors through the workshop.
oRue des ArtsARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Ð Phan Boi Chau)
This mid-2017 initiative focuses attention on Ð Phan Boi Chau, east of Ð Hoang Dieu, as a dedicated arts street with galleries, museums and cafes housed mainly in the heritage buildings of Hoi An’s former French Quarter. Pick up a walking map from the March Gallery (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0122 377 9074; www.marchgallery-hoian.com; 25 Ð Phan Boi Chau; h9am-6pm), Precious Heritage or Mia Coffee House (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/miacoffeehouse; 20 Ð Phan Boi Chau; h8am-5pm) and start exploring.
8Information
Coast Vietnam (www.coastvietnam.com) features lots of eating, drinking and activities information from savvy Hoi An expats. Look for the free Hoi An Travel Guide map too. Wi-fi is widespread at cafes, bars and accommodation.
Hoi An Hospital (%0235-386 1364; 4 Ð Tran Hung Dao; h6am-10pm) For serious problems, go to Danang.
Rose Travel Service (%0235-391 7567; www.rosetravelservice.com; 37-39 Ð Ly Thai To; h7.30am-5.30pm) Tours around the area and Vietnam, plus car hire and buses.
Sinh Tourist (%0235-386 3948; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 587 Ð Hai Ba Trung; h6am-10pm) Books reputable open-tour buses.
Tourist Information Office (%0235-391 6961; www.quangnamtourism.com.vn; 47 Ɖ Phan Chau Trinh; h8am-5pm) Helpful office with good English spoken.
8Getting There & Away
Most north–south bus services do not stop at Hoi An, as Hwy 1 passes 10km west of the town, but you can head for the town of Vinh Dien and flag down a bus there. More convenient open-tour buses offer regular connections for Hue and Nha Trang.
Yellow buses to Danang (20,000d) leave from the northern bus station just off Ð Le Hong Phong, a 15-minute walk or a 15,000d xe om ride from central Hoi An.
The nearest airport and train station are both in Danang. A car to Hoi An costs around 550,000d via your hotel or a local travel agency, while xe om will do it for around 150,000d. Bargain hard if you want to stop at the Marble Mountains or Danang Beach en route. Shared shuttle buses cost around 300,000d and can be booked through hotels.
8Getting Around
Metered taxis and motorbike drivers wait for business over the footbridge in An Hoi. Call Hoi An Taxi (%0510-391 9919) or Mai Linh (%0235-392 5925) for a pick-up.
Many hotels offer bicycles/motorbikes for hire from 20,000/100,000d per day. Hoi An’s compact Old Town is best explored on foot.
Around Hoi An
An Bang Beach
An Bang is one of Vietnam’s most happening and enjoyable beaches. At present there’s a wonderful stretch of fine sand and an enormous horizon, with less of the serious erosion evident at Cua Dai, and with only the distant Cham Islands interrupting the seaside symmetry. Staying at the beach and visiting Hoi An on day trips is a good strategy for a relaxing visit to the area.
There is a growing band of vendors selling souvenirs and food on the beach, and at the end of the day the beach gets very busy with local families heading down for a swim. A few watersports operators are also now offering parasailing and jet-ski hire. Note that safety standards for these activities may not be enforced as strongly as in other countries.
4Sleeping & Eating
Under the Coconut TreeBUNGALOW$
(%0168 245 5666; www.underthecoconuttreehoian.com; An Bang; dm US$9, d US$30-40; W)
The funkiest place to stay in An Bang is this ramshackle garden collection of wooden and bamboo lodges and bungalows. For thrifty travellers, the Coconut Dorm House has outdoor showers and simple, shared accommodation in a breezy, open-sided pavilion, while the Bamboo Family House accommodates four. The cosy Mushroom House is couples-friendly and has a private bathroom.
oSea ShellFRENCH, SEAFOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 119 Ð Tran Cao Van; meals 90,000d; hnoon-9pm)
Shaded by a decades-old banyan tree, Sea Shell is a flavour-packed offshoot of Nu Eatery in Hoi An’s Old Town. Try snacks like tempura-prawn rolls and turmeric-catfish wraps, or mains like spicy pork noodles with a refreshing calamari and green-apple salad. A decent wine list covers Australia, France, Italy and South Africa.
Sound of SilenceCAFE
(www.facebook.com/soundofsilencecoffee; coffee from 25,000d; h7am-5pm; W)
An Bang’s best spot for a coffee, Sound of Silence combines a rustic garden setting, ocean views and the best barista skills in the village. Fresh coconuts and crêpes crammed with tropical fruit are other distractions while you wonder about going for a swim.
8Getting There & Away
Access to/from Hoi An is easy – it’s just a 20-minute bike ride or a five-minute (70,000d) taxi journey. Parking your bicycle will cost around 5000d, a good investment to guarantee its security while you’re on the beach
My Son
Set under the shadow of Cat’s Tooth Mountain are the enigmatic ruins of My Son (150,000d; h6.30am-4pm), the most important remains of the ancient Cham empire and a Unesco World Heritage Site. Although Vietnam has better-preserved Cham sites, none are as extensive and few have such beautiful surroundings, with brooding mountains and clear streams running between the temples.
The ruins are 55km southwest of Hoi An. Day tours to My Son can be arranged in Hoi An for between US$10 and US$15, not including admission, and some trips return to Hoi An by boat.
Independent travellers can hire a motorbike, xe om or car. Get here early in order to beat the tour groups, or later in the afternoon.