Southeast Coast
Vietnam has an incredibly curvaceous coastline and on this coast it’s defined by sweeping sands, towering cliffs and concealed bays. Nha Trang and Mui Ne are key destinations, but the beach breaks come thick and fast here.
If your idea of paradise is reclining in front of turquoise waters, weighing up the merits of a massage or a mojito, then you have come to the right place. On hand to complement the sedentary delights are activities to set the pulse racing, including scuba diving, snorkelling, surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing. Action or inaction, this coast bubbles with opportunities.
Nha Trang
%0258426,000 / Pop 426,000
Welcome to the beach capital of Vietnam. The high-rise, high-energy resort of Nha Trang enjoys a stunning setting, ringed by a necklace of hills, with a sweeping crescent beach and turquoise bay dotted with tropical islands.
Central Nha Trang is a party town at heart. Until relatively recently a lot of the bar action was geared towards the backpacker market, but today it’s mainly aimed at the burgeoning numbers of well-heeled Russian and Asian tourists.
If vodka shooters, cocktail buckets and karaoke are not your scene, try the natural mud baths or visit the imposing Cham towers.
1Sights
oNha Trang BeachBEACH
Forming a magnificent sweeping arc, Nha Trang’s 6km-long golden-sand beach is the city’s trump card. Sections are roped off and designated for safe swimming (where you won’t be bothered by jet skis or boats). The turquoise water is very inviting, and the promenade a delight to stroll.
Two popular lounging spots are the Sailing Club (www.sailingclubnhatrang.com; 72-74 Ð Tran Phu; 
h7am-2am; 
W) and Louisiane Brewhouse. If you head south of here, the beach gets quieter and it’s possible to find a quiet stretch of sand.
oPo Nagar Cham TowersBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Thap Ba, Lady of the City; north side of Xom Bong Bridge; admission 22,000d, guide 50,000d; h6am-6pm)
Built between the 7th and 12th centuries, these impressive Cham towers are still actively used for worship by Cham, Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhists. Originally the complex had seven or eight towers, but only four remain, of which the 28m-high North Tower (Thap Chinh; AD 817), with a terraced pyramidal roof, vaulted interior masonry and vestibule, is the most magnificent.
The towers stand on a granite knoll 3km north of central Nha Trang, on the northern bank of the Cai River.
2Activities
Nha Trang is Vietnam’s most popular scuba-diving centre. February to September is considered the best time to dive, while October to December is the worst time of year.
There are around 25 dive sites in the area. Some sites have good drop-offs and there are small underwater caves to explore. It’s not world-class diving, but the waters support a reasonable number of small reef fish.
A two-dive boat trip costs between US$60 and US$85; snorkellers typically pay US$20.
Most dive operators also offer a range of dive courses. Watch out for dodgy dive shops not following responsible diving practices and even using fake PADI/SSI accreditation – stick to reputable operators including Oceans 5 (%0258-381 1969, 0258-352 2012; www.oceans5.co; 49/06 Ð Hung Vuong; 2 dives US$75) and Angel Dive (%0258-352 2461; www.angeldivevietnam.info; 10 Ɖ Nguyen Thien Thuat; fun dive from US$30).
oLanterns ToursCULTURAL
(%0258-247 1674; www.lanternsvietnam.com; 30a Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat; tour from US$29)
This nonprofit restaurant offers fine-value street-food tours (250,000d) of Nha Trang featuring seven dishes including banh tai vac (tapioca shrimp dumplings). It also offers a tour to Ninh Hoa (from US$29), a nontouristy town, which includes a local market and lunch with a family.
oVietnam ActiveADVENTURE SPORTS
(%0258-352 8119; www.vietnamactive.com; 115 Ð Hung Vuong)
Shamrock AdventuresRAFTING
(%0905 150 978; www.shamrockadventures.vn; Ð Phan Dinh Giot; trips per person incl lunch from US$45)
Specialises in fishing trips (including deep-sea and fly) and also runs white-water rafting excursions (which can be combined with some mountain biking) along the Serapok River.
WORTH A TRIP
BAI DAI BEACH
South of Nha Trang, a spectacular coastal road leads to Cam Ranh Bay, a gorgeous natural harbour, and the airport. Virtually the entire shoreline south of Mia Resort forms Bai Dai (Long Beach), a breathtaking sandy coast.
Until very recently, the Vietnamese military controlled the entire area, restricting access to all but the odd fishing boat. However, times have changed and now the entire strip has been earmarked for development. Several giant resort hotels have already opened and many others are under construction.
You may not find virgin sands any longer, but some of the best surf breaks in Vietnam are still found on Bai Dai. At the northern tip of the coastline, Shack Vietnam (www.shackvietnam.com) offers one-hour board hire and surf instruction in English for 600,000d (board hire only is 200,000d per hour). It also offers kayak hire, beers and grub. The Shack sits in the middle of a strip of 20 or so seafood restaurants, all with near-identical menus.
A one-way journey in a taxi to the north end of Bai Dai costs around 275,000d, or you can catch an airport-bound bus (50,000d, every 30 minutes) and jump off anywhere along the coast.
4Sleeping
oSunny SeaHOTEL$
(%0258-352 2286; sunnyseahotel@gmail.com; 64b/9 Ð Tran Phu; r 250,000-330,000d; 
a
iW)
This very welcoming mini-hotel is run by a local couple (a doctor and nurse) and their super-friendly staff who delight in helping out travellers. Rooms are in great shape: very clean, with springy mattresses, minibar and modern bathrooms; some have a balcony. It’s fine value and just off the beach.
oMojzo InnHOSTEL$
(%0988 879 069; www.facebook.com/mojzoInn; 120/36 Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat; dm US$7, r US$19-23; aiW)
This funky hostel gets most things right, with well-designed dorms, a lovely cushion-scattered lounge area, huge breakfasts and even free beer served on the rooftop! Staff really go the extra mile to help out with travel info and connections.
Binh An HotelGUESTHOUSE$
(%090 514 3548; www.binhanhotel.com; 28h Ð Hoang Hoa Tham; r 350,000-380,000d; aiW)
A family-run, welcoming place where the owners look after guests with pride and provide travel tips and fresh fruit daily. Rooms are spotless, spacious and boast good air-conditioning and fast wi-fi. A good breakfast is available for 60,000d.
5Eating
For inexpensive, authentic Vietnamese food, head to Dam Market (Ð Trang Nu Vuong; meals 15,000-50,000d; h6am-4pm) which has good stalls and lots of veggie choices.
Au LacVEGETARIAN$
(28c Ð Hoang Hoa Tham; meals 15,000-32,000d; h10am-7pm; 
v)
oLac Canh RestaurantVIETNAMESE$$
(44 Ð Nguyen Binh Khiem; meals 50,000-150,000d; h11am-8.45pm)
A unique experience, this scruffy, unadulterated barbecue place is where locals go to feast on meat (beef, richly marinated with spices, is the speciality, but there are other meats and seafood, too). It’s DIY: you grill ingredients on your own charcoal burner. Note: it closes quite early.
79 Dung LinVIETNAMESE$$
(29 Ð Phan Chu Trinh; meals 75,000-130,000d; h6-9.30pm)
Simple local joint that’s famous for its wonderfully flavoursome barbecued duck (half a duck with salad, dips and rice 100,000d).
6Drinking & Nightlife
oAlpaca Homestyle CafeCAFE
(www.facebook.com/alpacanhatrang; 10/1b Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat; h8am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; W)
This hip little cafe with an artistic interior is famous for its coffee (sourced in Dalat), which comes in espresso, French press or cold-brewed options. Iced teas, juices (45,000d) and great Mediterranean and Mexican food are also offered.
oLouisiane BrewhouseBREWERY
(29 Ð Tran Phu; h7am-midnight; W)
This shorefront microbrewery has it all – you can cool off in the swimming pool or enjoy the sea breeze before sampling one of the six craft brews, which include red ale and dark lager. There’s a full food menu here, too.
Crazy Kim BarBAR
(http://crazykimvietnam.wordpress.com; 19 Ð Biet Thu; h9am-late; W)
This place is home to the commendable ‘Hands off the Kids!’ campaign, working to prevent paedophilia – part of the profits go towards the cause. Crazy Kim’s has regular themed party nights, cheap beer and tasty pub grub. There are happy hour promos throughout the night, including two-for-one cocktails between 4.30pm and 10.30pm.
DRINK SPIKING
Periodically, we receive reports of laced cocktail buckets in popular nightspots. This might mean staff using homemade moonshine instead of legal spirits or it could mean the addition of drugs by other punters. While buckets can be fun and communal, consider the risks.
8Information
Though Nha Trang is generally a safe place, be very careful on the beach during the day (theft) and at night (robbery). Pickpocketing is a perennial problem. Bags with valuables left behind bars for ‘safekeeping’ are regularly relieved of cash and phones, and there have been reports of spiked cocktail buckets.
Most hotels and bars have free wi-fi, and ATMs are widespread.
Khanh Hoa Tourist Information (%0258-382 9357; www.nhatrang-travel.com; Tran Phu; h8am-5.30pm) Small office staffed by helpful English-speaking staff.
Main Post Office (4 Ð Le Loi; h6.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Post office in Nha Trang.
Pasteur Institute (%0258-382 2355; www.pasteur-nhatrang.org.vn; 8-10 Ð Tran Phu; h7-11am & 1-4.30pm) Offers medical consultations and vaccinations.
Sinh Tourist (%0258-352 2982; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 90C Ð Hung Vuong; h6am-10pm) Reliable, professional agency for inexpensive local trips, including a city tour for 279,000d (excluding entrance fees) as well as open-tour buses, train and flight bookings.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Cam Ranh International Airport (%0258-398 9913) is 35km south of the city via a beautiful coastal road.
Vietnam Airlines (%0258-352 6768; www.vietnamairlines.com; 91 Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat) connects Nha Trang with Hanoi, HCMC and Danang daily and also has flights to several Chinese cities including Chengdu and Kunming. Vietjet Air (www.vietjetair.com) has links to Hanoi and HCMC daily and also flights to several cities in China including Shanghai. Jetstar (www.jetstar.com) offers good connections with Hanoi and HCMC and also operates flights to Hue, Bangkok and Siem Riep.
Other usual international links include an Air Asia flight to Kuala Lumpur and a Korean Air flight to Seoul.
BUS
Phia Nam Nha Trang Bus Station (Ð 23 Thang 10) The main intercity bus terminal. Regular daily buses north to Danang and south towards Phan Rang and HCMC.
TRAIN
The Nha Trang Train Station (%0258-382 2113; Ð Thai Nguyen; hticket office 7-11.30am, 1.30-6pm & 7-9pm) is in the centre of town. It’s on the main north–south line with good connections to destinations including Dieu Tri (for Quy Nhon), Danang and HCMC. There’s no line to Dalat.
TRANSPORT FROM NHA TRANG
| DESTINATION | AIR | BUS | CAR/MOTORCYCLE | TRAIN |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dalat | N/A | US$7, 5hr, 12 daily | 4-5hr | N/A |
| Danang | from US$40, 1hr, 1 daily | US$11-16, 11-12hr, 15 daily | 11hr | US$13-18, 9-11hr, 7 daily |
| Ho Chi Minh City | from US$25, 1hr, 12 daily | US$9-14, 10-12hr, 16 daily | 10hr | US$11-16, 7-9hr, 7 daily |
| Mui Ne | N/A | US$8, 5½hr, 4 daily | 5hr | N/A |
| Quy Nhon | N/A | US$6.50, 6hr, every 2½hr | 6hr | US$5.50-7, 3½-4½hr, 7 daily |
8Getting Around
Shuttle buses (50,000d, 45 minutes) connect the airport with Nha Trang roughly every 30 minutes between 6am and 6.30pm. They pass through the heart of town, stopping at points along the coastal road Ð Tran Phu.
Nha Trang city is pretty flat, so it’s easy to get around all the sights by bicycle. Hotels have bikes for hire from 30,000d per day. Use a metered taxi from a reputable company such as Mai Linh (%0258-382 2266).
Mui Ne
%0252 / Pop 17,600
Once upon a time, Mui Ne was an isolated stretch of sand, but it was too beautiful to be ignored – now it’s a string of resorts spread along a 10km stretch of highway. Mercifully, most of these are low-rise and set amid pretty gardens by the sea.
Windsurfing and kitesurfing are huge here – surf’s up from August to December. It’s also the ‘Sahara’ of Vietnam, with the most dramatic sand dunes in the region looming large.
1Sights
Sand DunesBEACH
Mui Ne is famous for its enormous red and white sand dunes. The ‘red dunes’ (doi hong) are convenient to Hai Long, but the ‘white dunes’ (doi cat trang), 24km northeast, are the more impressive – the near-constant oceanic winds sculpt the pale yellow sands into wonderful Saharaesque formations. But as this is Vietnam there’s little chance of experiencing the silence of the desert.
2Activities
oManta Sail Training CentreBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0908 400 108; http://mantasailing.org; 108 Ð Huynh Thuc Khang; sailing instruction per hr US$66)
One of Southeast Asia’s best sailing schools, Manta offers instruction and training (from beginner to advanced racing). Speak to staff about wakeboarding (US$100 per hour), SUP hire (US$10 per hour) and boat tours. The centre also has budget rooms available right by the beach.
oMui Ne Hot Air BalloonBALLOONING
(%0120 853 6828; www.vietnamballoons.com; from US$136)
The first hot-air balloon experience in Vietnam is a professionally run, European-owned operation that sees you either soaring over the spectacular white sand dunes and desert lakes east of Mui Ne, or alternatively over the bustling fishing harbour of Phan Thiet. Prepare yourself for a magical flight at sunrise.
JibesKITESURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0252-384 7405; www.jibesbeachclub.com; 84-90 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; h7.30am-6pm)
Mui Ne’s original kitesurfing school, Jibes offers instruction (US$60 per hour) and gear including windsurfs (US$55 per day), SUPs (US$20 per half day), surfboards, kitesurfs and kayaks for hire.
Surfpoint Kiteboarding SchoolKITESURFING, SURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0167 342 2136; www.surfpoint-vietnam.com; 52a Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; 5hr course incl all gear US$250; h7am-6pm)
One of Mui Ne’s best-regarded kite schools. A three-hour starter course costs US$150. Surfing lessons on soft boards are also offered (from US$50) when waves permit.
zFestivals
Mui Ne Street Food FestivalFOOD & DRINK
(www.facebook.com/muinestreetfoodfestival)
Mui Ne hosts a popular street food festival three times a year (usually January, April and July), featuring local dishes from Phan Thiet in addition to national and international classics. It’s held on the main drag by Blue Ocean Resort and Coco Beach Resort; there’s also live music and DJs.
4Sleeping
Mui Ne Backpacker VillageHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0252-374 1047; www.muinebackpackervillage.com; 137 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; dm/r from US$6/20; 
naW
s)
This huge, well-designed modern hostel is wildly popular with its inviting swimming pool. Thanks to the bar-restaurant, pool table, darts, and table football and tennis, there’s a social, party vibe. All dorms have air-conditioning, individual beds and lockers while the private rooms all have a balcony or patio. The hostel runs lots of good-value tours.
Coco Sand HotelGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0127 364 3446; http://cocosandhotel.com; 119 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; r US$16-27; aW)
Down a little lane, Coco Sand has excellent-value rooms with air-conditioning, cable TV, fridge and private bathroom. There’s a shady courtyard garden (with hammocks) to enjoy and the friendly owners hire out motorbikes at fair rates.
Mui Ne Hills Budget HotelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0252-374 1707; www.muinehills.com; 69 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; dm/r from US$6/30; aWs)
Around 300m off the main strip, via an incredibly steep access road, this popular spot has several air-conditioned dorms with en suites and lockers. Private rooms have quality furnishings and contemporary design touches. During quiet times guests are often upgraded to upmarket sister accommodation over the road.
oCat Sen AubergeB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0122 323 3673; http://catsen.simdif.com; 195 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; r/bungalow US$23/36; aWs)
A wonderfully relaxing place to stay, Cat Sen Auberge has well-constructed rooms and lovely bungalows (with gorgeous verandahs) dotted around extensive, coconut treetstudded grounds. There’s a great pool and lots of space, with hammocks for lounging and free drinking water. Book ahead in high season.
SPLURGE
For a memorable meal in Mui Ne head straight to Sandals (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0252-384 7440; www.miamuine.com; Mia Resort, 24 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; meals 120,000-370,000d; h7am-10pm; W) located at Mia Resort. It’s particularly romantic at night, with tables set around the shoreside pool and subtle lighting. The menu is superb, with everything from seafood platters to perfectly seasoned grilled meat dishes. There’s a great choice of wine by the glass, and craft beers, too.
5Eating
oDong Vui Food CourtFOOD HALL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/FoodCourtDongVui; 246 Ɖ Nguyen Dinh Chieu; meals 30,000-170,000d; h5-11pm)
A brilliant new concept, this attractive open-air food court has loads of independently run cook stations offering everything from Punjabi cuisine to paella, German sausages and Thai curries – plus plenty of Vietnamese options. Just grab a seat and order what you fancy. There’s also great craft beer on tap and live music some weekends. Located on the eastern side of the strip.
Com Chay Vi DieuVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 15B Ð Huynh Thuc Khang; meals 25,000d; h7am-9pm; v)
A simple roadside place perfect for inexpensive Vietnamese vegetarian dishes (curries, noodle soup and fried rice dishes); it also serves great smoothies (20,000d). It’s opposite the Eiffel Tower of the Little Paris resort. Almost no English is spoken.
Phat HamburgersINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 253 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; burgers 80,000-165,000d; h9am-10pm; W)
This casual roadside joint has many meaty burger options (try a Phatarella, spread with cashew-nut pesto and served with mozzarella), and it’s rightly proud of its veggie versions as well. Hot dogs hit the spot, too.
WORTH A TRIP
BAI XEP
An isolated fishing village just a few years back, the pretty bay of Bai Xep is fast emerging as one of coastal Vietnam’s most popular spots with independent travellers. It’s still quite remote, 13km south of Quy Nhon, but this beach’s relaxed appeal is considerable and its beauty undeniable.
Bai Xep consists of two small coves. The northernmost cove, Bai Truoc (‘Front Beach’), is a busy little fishing port with a warren of lanes of tightly packed houses and a small bay strewn with fishing tackle and boats. Just to the south is larger, more attractive Bai Sau (‘Back Beach’), which has an expanding range of accommodation, each place facing a stunning crescent-shaped sandy bay that offers wonderful swimming. It’s easy to lose track of time here, chilling in a hammock, socialising with locals and fellow travellers and exploring the stunning coastline and islands offshore.
Bai Xep is 13km south of Quy Nhon and connected by local buses: T11 (9000d) runs roughly hourly from the Metro mall between 5.30am and 5pm (with a break for lunch). A taxi from Quy Nhon is 180,000d. Many travellers arrive by motorbike.
Recommended accommodation includes Life’s A Beach Backpackers (%086-895 8843; http://lifesabeachvietnam.com; 2km north of Xuan Hai; dm/hut/r from US$6/15/20; aW) and Haven (%0982 114 906; www.havenvietnam.com; To 2, Khu Vuc 1, Bai Sau, Bai Xep; r incl breakfast 720,000-1,000,000d; aW).
6Drinking & Nightlife
oPoGoBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0912 000 751; www.thepogobar.com; 138 Ɖ Nguyen Dinh Chieu; h8.30am-2am)
This casual bar has a great beachfront location, day beds for lounging, DJs on weekends and regular movie nights. Staff are very friendly; happy hour runs from 6pm to 8pm.
Joe’s CaféBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://joescafemuine.com; 86 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; h7am-1am; W)
This very popular pub-like place has live music (every night at 7.30pm) and a gregarious vibe. During the day it’s a good place to hang, too, with seats set under a giant mango tree, magazines to browse, a pool table and an extensive food menu.
Dragon BeachBAR, CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 120-121 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; h1pm-4am)
Mui Ne’s main nightclub has a cool shoreside location with a chill-out deck scattered with cushions and a lively dance floor. Musically, expect commercial EDM, house and banging techno. Staff are notoriously unprofessional – don’t expect much in the way of service.
8Information
Internet and wi-fi are available at pretty much all hotels and resorts, as well as at most restaurants and bars.
Main Post Office (348 Ð Huynh Thuc Khang; h7am-5pm) In the fishing village.
Sinh Tourist (%098 925 8060; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 144 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; h7am-10pm) Reliable and trustworthy agency for open-tour buses, trips around Mui Ne and also credit-card cash advances.
8Getting There & Away
Open-tour buses are the most convenient option for Mui Ne, as most public buses only serve Phan Thiet. Several companies have daily services to/from HCMC (110,000d to 135,000d, six hours), Nha Trang (from 112,000d, 5½ hours) and Dalat (125,000d, four hours). Sleeper open-tour night buses usually cost more.
Phuong Trang (http://futabus.vn; 97 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu) has regular, comfortable buses running between Mui Ne and HCMC (130,000d). Its depot is just west of the fairy spring river. Sinh Tourist operates three daily buses on this route.
Local buses (9000d, 45 minutes, frequent) make trips between Phan Thiet Bus Station and Mui Ne, departing from the Coopmart, on the corner of Ð Nguyen Tat Thanh and Ð Tran Hung Dao.
Southwest Highlands
There’s a rugged charm to this distinctly rural region, with pine-studded hilltops soaring over intensively farmed fields and remote, bumpy roads meandering through coffee plantations. Looking for big nature? Check out Cat Tien National Park, where there are gibbons, crocodiles and elusive tigers. Dalat, a former French hill station that still boasts plenty of colonial-era charm, makes a great base.
Dalat
%0263 / Pop 184,755 / Elev 1475m
Dalat is the alter-ego of lowland Vietnam. The weather is springlike cool instead of tropical hot. The town is dotted with elegant French-colonial villas, and farms are thick with strawberries and flowers, not rice.
Dalat is small enough to remain charming, and the surrounding countryside is blessed with lakes, waterfalls, evergreen forests and gardens. The town is a big draw for domestic tourists.
For travellers, the moderate climate is ideal for adrenaline-fuelled activities – mountain biking, forest hiking, canyoning and climbing.
1Sights
Perhaps there’s something in the cool mountain air that fosters the distinctly artistic vibe that veers towards cute kitsch in Dalat.
oHang Nga Crazy HouseARCHITECTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0263-382 2070; 3 Ð Huynh Thuc Khang; 50,000d; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri)
A free-wheeling architectural exploration of surrealism, Hang Nga Crazy House is a joyously designed, outrageously artistic private home. Imagine sculptured rooms connected by superslim bridges rising out of a tangle of greenery, an excess of cascading lava-flow-like shapes, wild colours, spiderweb windows and an almost organic quality to it all, with the swooping hand rails resembling jungle vines. Think of Gaudí and Tolkien dropping acid together.
King PalacePALACE
(Dinh 1; %0263-358 0558; Hung Vuong; adult/child 30,000/10,000d; h7am-5pm)
Tastefully revamped, the main palace of Bao Dai, Vietnam’s last emperor, beckons visitors with its beautiful tree-lined avenue and a surprisingly modest but attractive royal residence. It was home to Bao Dai and his family until they went into exile in France in 1954. The house was subsequently taken over by then Prime Minister Ngo Dinh Diem. Highlights are undoubtedly the family photos: Bao Dai playing with a dog, and riding a horse, and well-scrubbed royal children with serious faces.
Crémaillère Railway StationHISTORIC BUILDING
(Ga Da Lat; 1 Ð Quang Trung; 5000d; h6.30am-5pm)
F
From Dalat’s wonderful art deco train station you can ride one of the nine scheduled trains that run to Trai Mat (return 108,000d, 30 minutes) daily between 6.55am and 4.39pm; a minimum of 25 passengers is required. A crémaillère (cog railway) linking Dalat and Thap Cham from 1928 to 1964 was closed due to VC attacks. A Japanese steam train is on display.
TTours
oPhat Tire VenturesADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %063-382 9422; www.ptv-vietnam.com; 109 Ð Nguyen Van Troi; h8am-7pm)
A highly professional and experienced operator with mountain-biking trips from US$49, trekking from US$39, kayaking from US$39, canyoning (US$75) and rapelling (US$57), and white-water rafting (US$67) in the rainy season. Multiday cycling trips are available and it also ventures into Cat Tien National Park.
Groovy Gecko Adventure ToursADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0263-383 6521; www.groovygeckotours.net; 65 Ð Truong Cong Dinh; h7.30am-8.30pm)
Pine Track AdventuresADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0263-383 1916; www.pinetrackadventures.com; 72b Ð Truong Cong Dinh; h8am-8.30pm)
Run by an enthusiastic and experienced local team, this operator offers canyoning (from US$55), white-water rafting (US$60), trekking (from US$35), biking (from US$41) and some excellent multisport packages. A seven-day bike tour from Dalat to Hoi An is US$595.
Dalat Happy ToursFOOD & DRINK
(%0163 654 6450; www.dalathappytours.com; street-food tour US$4)
After all the active exertions around Dalat, replenish your calories by going on an entertaining, nightly street-food tour with friendly Lao. Start from the central Hoa Binh cinema at 6.30pm and proceed to sample banh xeo (filled pancakes), buffalo-tail hotpot, delectable grilled skewers, ‘Dalat pizza’, rabbit curry, hot rice wine and more. Food costs are not included.
WORTH A TRIP
CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK
Unesco-listed Cat Tien National Park (%0251-366 9228; www.namcattien.org; adult/child 60,000/10,000d; h7am-10pm) 
S comprises an amazingly biodiverse area of lowland tropical rainforest. The hiking, mountain biking and birdwatching are outstanding.
Fauna in the park includes 326 bird species, 100 mammals (including elephants) and 79 reptiles, though the last rhino was killed by poachers in 2010.
Call headquarters for reservations and to book a guide, as the park can accommodate only a limited number of visitors.
Sights & Activities
Cat Tien National Park can be explored on foot, by mountain bike, by 4WD and also by boat. There are 14 well-established hiking trails in the park. A guide (from 800,000d) is only mandatory for three difficult trails.
Trips to the Crocodile Lake (Bau Sau; Cat Tien National Park; admission 200,000d, guide fee 550,000d, boat trip from 200,000d) taking in a three-hour jungle trek, are popular.
Dao Tien Endangered Primate Species Centre (www.go-east.org; Cat Tien National Park; adult/child incl boat ride 300,000/150,000d; htours 8.30am & 2pm) is located on an island in the Dong Nai River. This rehabilitation centre hosts gibbons, langurs and lorises. The Bear & Wild Cat Rescue Station (Cat Tien National Park; 150,000d; h7.30am-4pm) is also worth a visit.
Wild Gibbon Trek (www.go-east.org; Cat Tien National Park; per person 1,050,000d, maximum 4 people; h4.30am) involves a 4.30am start to hear the gibbons’ dawn chorus and a fully guided tour of the Primate Species Centre. Book ahead.
Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation options include the riverside Green Hope Lodge (%0251-366 9919, 0972 184 683; www.greenhopelodge.com; Nam Cat Tien; r US$5-35; aW), a five-minute walk from the ferry crossing, and Ta Lai Long House (%0974 160 827; www.talai-adventure.vn; Cat Tien National Park; dm 450,000d; W) is another goodie, but 12km away. There are small restaurants near the park HQ, and many people eat at their guesthouse accommodation.
Getting There & Around
Cat Tien is 175km south of Dalat; turn off Hwy 20 at Tan Phu and it’s another 24km up a paved access road to the entrance. Buses between Dalat and HCMC (210,000d, every 30 minutes) pass the access road. Waiting motorbikes (around 150,000d) will then take you to the park entrance. Guesthouses either rent bicycles or provide them free of charge.
4Sleeping
oDalat Central HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Hotel Phuong Hanh; %0989 878 879, 0263-383 8839; phuonghanhhotel@gmail.com; 80 Ɖ Ba Thang Hai; mixed/female dm US$5/6, r US$20-25; aW)
More budget hotel than hostel, although it’s a popular traveller hub. The vast eight- and 12-bed dorms come with comfy bunks and privacy curtains (a women-only dorm is available), while the private rooms are also huge. The most expensive are equipped with triangular bath-tubs. Staff is helpful and knowledgeable, and motorbikes (100,000d per day) can be hired.
oDalat Friendly FunHOSTEL$
(%0919 124 137; youthactiontour@gmail.com; 18 Mac Dinh Chi; dm US$5; W)
This place lives up to its name with a warm welcome and helpful staff who organise nightly group dinners (US$3), as well as recommending decent tour operators. Dorms are huge and bright, with curtained beds and inside bathrooms. There’s one private room (US$15), and a couple of tents on the roof for when it’s really busy.
oMooka’s HomeHOSTEL$
(%0932 579 752; mookahome@gmail.com; 2 Co Loa; dm 100,000d; niW)
Big and light dorms come with sparkly inside bathrooms at this popular place. There are two four-bed female dorms, as well as a roof terrace and downstairs communal area. Nightly group dinners or barbecues are on offer (50,000d), and the friendly staff can arrange tours.
oVilla Doc MayGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0263-382 5754; villadocmaydalat@gmail.com; 16B Ð Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; r 450,000-790,000d; aW)
More of a homestay than a guesthouse, there are just four individually decorated rooms here, all comfortable, as well as two pleasant communal areas with sofas and a kitchen for guests to use. It’s run by a charming family. Find it up a steep alley off the street; look for the sign.
Zen Cafe & VillaGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0994 799 518; www.zencafedalat.com; 27c Pham Hong Thai; r US$28-48; W)
Lodge in spacious, characterful rooms in a century-old French villa with a tranquil garden, sufficiently high up to give you mountain views. Owners Axel and Mai Dung regale you with local anecdotes and the coffee served at their cafe is wonderful.
5Eating
There are vegetarian food stalls and cheap eats in the market area on Cho Da Lat.
oTau Cao Wonton NoodlesNOODLES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 217 Ð Phan Dinh Phung; noodles 35,000-40,000d; h6am-8pm)
This humble eatery is famed throughout Dalat and is always heaving with locals, who come for the noodle wonton soup. It’s served with thin slices of pork on top and a sprinkling of mincemeat. Add chilli, lime and bean sprouts to taste and you’re good to go. Classic Asian street eats. No English spoken.
oTrong DongVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0263-382 1889; 220 Ð Phan Dinh Phung; meals 75,000-150,000d; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm; W)
Intimate restaurant run by a very hospitable team where the creative menu includes spins on Vietnamese delights such as shrimp paste on a sugar-cane stick, beef wrapped in la lut leaf, and fiery lemongrass-and-chilli squid.
oRestaurant IchiJAPANESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0263-355 5098; 1 Đ Hoang Dieu; sushi 30,000-130,000d, meals from 160,000d; h5.30-10pm Tue-Sun, closed every 2nd Tue)
Dalat’s only truly genuine Japanese restaurant is compact, with subdued lighting and jazz in the background. Spicy tuna rolls, chicken yakitori and tempura are all fantastic, the bento boxes are a bargain and there’s even natto (fermented soybeans) for aficionados. Perch in front of the bar (with extensive whisky offerings from around the world) to watch sushi-master Tomo at work.
Oz BurgersBURGERS$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0902 475 923; 61 Ɖ Ba Thang Hai; meals 70,000-180,000d; h11am-2pm & 5.30-9pm Wed-Mon)
Packed out every night with backpackers, Asian tourists and even a few locals, this Australian-run joint serves up delicious burgers on wooden platters, along with fries and imported beers. Various set meal options are available, but they all involve burgers.
6Drinking & Entertainment
o100 Roofs CaféBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Duong Len Trang; %0263-837 518; 57 Ð Phan Boi Chau; h8am-midnight; W)
This is a surreal drinking experience. The owners claim Gandalf and his hobbit friends have drunk here, and this dim labyrinth of rooms with multiple nooks and crannies and art and sculptures that range from the cool to the kitsch does resemble a Middle-earth location. A cheap happy hour and Wonderland-like rooftop garden add to the fun.
oAn CafeCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0975 735 521; www.ancafe.vn; 63bis Ba Thang Hai; h7am-10pm; W)
Perched high above the street, this cafe feels like a hip treehouse. Sip good lattes, healthy juices and smoothies or artichoke tea at the wood-chic booths inside or on garden-bench swings outside. If you tire of people-watching, there are crayons and paper for doodling, and an atrium filled with coffee beans for sniffing.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
MOTORBIKE RIDES IN THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
It’s easy to get off the beaten track in the wonderfully scenic highlands. This is a great part of the country to see from the back of a motorbike. Indeed, for many travellers, the highlight of their central highlands trip is a motorcycle tour with an Easy Rider (driver-guide). The flip side to the popularity of the Easy Riders is that now everyone claims to be one. In central Dalat, you can’t walk down the street without being invited (sometimes harassed) for a tour.
Rider-guides can be found in hotels and cafes in Dalat. Read testimonials from past clients. Check the bike over. Test-drive a rider first before committing to a longer trip. Then discuss the route in detail – for scenery, the new coastal highways that link Dalat to Mui Ne and Nha Trang, plus the old road to the coast via Phan Rang, are wonderful. Rates start at US$25 for a day tour, or around US$75 per day for longer journeys. Here are some tips for exploring :
AThe upgrading of the historic Ho Chi Minh Trail has made it easier to visit out-of-the way places such as Kon Tum, one of the friendliest cities in Vietnam.
ABuon Ma Thuot is the major city in the region, but the biggest buzz you’ll get is from the coffee beans. Nearby Yok Don National Park (%0262-378 3049; www.yokdonnationalpark.vn; Buon Don; adult/child 60,000/10,000d; h7am-10pm) is home to 38 endangered mammal species, including plenty of elephants. Stunning waterfalls in this area include Dray Sap, Gia Long (%0262-321 3194; 40,000d; h8am-6pm) and Dray Nur Falls (30,000d; h8am-6pm) along the Krong Ana River.
ANortheast of Dalat, the high road to Nha Trang offers spectacular views, hitting 1700m at Hon Giao mountain, following a breathtaking 33km pass.
AAnd 43km southeast of Dalat, it’s possible to see the ocean from the spectacular Ngoan Muc Pass.
7Shopping
Hoa Binh Sq and the market building adjacent to it are the places to purchase ethnic handicrafts, including Lat rush baskets that roll up when empty.
8Information
Lam Dong General Hospital (%0263-382 1369; 4 Ð Pham Ngoc Thach; h24hr) Emergency medical care.
Main Post Office (14 Ð Tran Phu; h7am-6pm)
Sinh Tourist (%0263-382 2663; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 22 Ð Bui Thi Xuan; h8am-7pm) Reliable tours, including city sightseeing trips, and open-tour bus bookings.
8Getting There & Around
There are regular flights with Vietnam Airlines, VietJet Air (Cat Bi International Airport; www.vietjetair.com; %1900 1886; 7am-10pm) and Jetstar, including four flights a week to Danang and four daily to Hanoi and HCMC. Lien Khuong Airport is 30km south of the city.
Dalat is a major stop for open-tour buses. The Sinh Tourist has daily buses to Mui Ne, Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh City.
Dalat’s long-distance bus station (Ben Xe Lien Tinh Da Lat; Ð 3 Thang 4) is 1.5km south of Xuan Huong Lake, and is dominated by reputable Phuong Trang (%0263-358 5858; https://futabus.vn) buses that offer free hotel pick-ups and drop-offs and cover all main regional destinations.
For short trips around town (around 20,000d), xe om drivers can be found around the Central Market area. Motorbike hire starts at 120,000d per day.
Around Dalat
Truc Lam Pagoda & Cable CarBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Ho Tuyen Lam; cable car one way/return adult 60,000/80,000d, child 30,000/40,000d; hcable car 7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm)
The Truc Lam Pagoda enjoys a hilltop setting and has splendid gardens. It’s an active monastery, though the grounds frequently teem with tour groups. Be sure to arrive by cable car (the terminus is 3km south of the centre, up a short road next to the long-distance bus station), which soars over majestic pine forests.
The pagoda can be reached by road via turn-offs from Hwy 20.
GETTING TO CAMBODIA: PLEIKU TO BAN LUNG
Getting to the border Remote and rarely used by foreigners, the Le Thanh–O Yadaw border crossing lies 90km from Pleiku and 64km from Ban Lung, Cambodia. From Pleiku, there’s a daily minivan at 7am (75,000d, two hours) from the main market car park on Ɖ Tran Phu direct to the Cambodian border at Le Thanh.
At the border Cambodian visas (US$30) are issued at the border; you may end up overpaying by a few dollars or be made to wait. Vietnamese visas need to be organised in advance.
Moving on From O Yadaw, on the Cambodia side of the border, local buses (around US$10) or motorbikes (around US$25) head to Ban Lung. There are far fewer transport options in the afternoon.
Ho Chi Minh City
%028 / Pop 8.2 million
Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is Vietnam at its most dizzying: a high-octane city of commerce and culture that has driven the country forward with its pulsating energy. A chaotic whirl, the city breathes life and vitality into all who settle here, and visitors cannot help but be hauled along for the ride.
From the finest of hotels to the cheapest of guesthouses, the classiest of restaurants to the tastiest of street stalls, the choicest of boutiques to the scrum of the markets, HCMC is a city of energy and discovery.
Wander through timeless alleys to incense-infused temples before negotiating chic designer malls beneath sleek 21st-century skyscrapers. The ghosts of the past live on in buildings that one generation ago witnessed a city in turmoil, but now the real beauty of the former Saigon’s urban collage is the seamless blending of these two worlds into one exciting mass.
1Sights
1Dong Khoi Area
This well-heeled area, immediately west of the Saigon River, is a swish enclave of designer stores and fashionable restaurants, concrete towers and tree-lined boulevards.
oNotre Dame CathedralCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Ð Han Thuyen)
Built between 1877 and 1883, Notre Dame Cathedral enlivens the heart of Ho Chi Minh City’s government quarter, facing Ð Dong Khoi. A brick, neo-Romanesque church with 40m-high square towers tipped with iron spires, the Catholic cathedral is named after the Virgin Mary. Interior walls are inlaid with devotional tablets and some stained glass survives. English-speaking staff dispense tourist information from 9am to 11am Monday to Saturday. Mass is 9.30am Sunday. If the front gates are locked, try the door on the side facing the Reunification Palace.
oBitexco Financial TowerVIEWPOINT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.ticketbox.vn/saigon-skydeck/en; 2 Ɖ Hai Trieu; adult/child 200,000/130,000d; h9.30am-9.30pm)
The 68-storey, 262m-high, Carlos Zapata–designed skyscraper dwarfs all around it. It’s reportedly shaped like a lotus bulb, but also resembles a CD rack with a tambourine shoved into it. That tambourine is the 48th-floor Saigon Skydeck, with a helipad on its roof. Choose a clear day and aim for sunset – or down a drink in the EON Heli Bar (MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://eon51.com/eon-heli-bar; h10.30am-2am) on the 52nd floor instead.
HCMC MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bao Tang Thanh Pho Ho Chi Minh; www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn; 65 Ð Ly Tu Trong; 30,000d; h8am-5pm)
A grand neoclassical structure built in 1885 and once known as Gia Long Palace (and later the Revolutionary Museum), HCMC’s city museum is a singularly beautiful and impressive building, telling the story of the city through archaeological artefacts, ceramics, old city maps and displays on the marriage traditions of its various ethnicities. The struggle for independence is extensively covered, with most of the upper floor devoted to it.
Central Post OfficeHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 2 Cong Xa Paris; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 8am-6pm Sun)
Right across the way from Notre Dame Cathedral, Ho Chi Minh City’s striking French post office is a period classic, designed by Marie-Alfred Foulhoux (though often credited to Gustave Eiffel) and built between 1886 and 1891. Painted on the walls of its grand concourse are fascinating historic maps of South Vietnam, Saigon and Cholon, while a mosaic of Ho Chi Minh takes pride of place at the end of its barrel-vaulted hall. Note the magnificent tiled floor of the interior and the copious green-painted wrought iron.
Opera HouseTHEATRE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Nha Hat Thanh Pho; %028-3823 7419; www.hbso.org.vn; Lam Son Sq)
Gracing the intersection of Ð Dong Khoi and ÐL Le Loi, this grand colonial edifice with a sweeping staircase was built in 1897 and is one of the city’s most recognisable buildings. Officially known as the Municipal Theatre, the Opera House captures the flamboyance of France’s belle époque. Performances range from ballet and opera to modern dance and musicals. Check the website for English-language listings and booking information.
1Da Kao & Around
oJade Emperor PagodaTAOIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Phuoc Hai Tu, Chua Ngoc Hoang; 73 Ð Mai Thi Luu; h7am-6pm daily, plus 5am-7pm 1st & 15th of lunar month)F
Built in 1909 in honour of the supreme Taoist god (the Jade Emperor or King of Heaven, Ngoc Hoang), this is one of the most spectacularly atmospheric temples in Ho Chi Minh City, stuffed with statues of phantasmal divinities and grotesque heroes. The pungent smoke of incense (huong) fills the air, obscuring the exquisite woodcarvings. Its roof is encrusted with elaborate tile work, and the temple’s statues, depicting characters from both Buddhist and Taoist lore, are made from reinforced papier mâché.
History MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bao Tang Lich Su; Ð Nguyen Binh Khiem; 15,000d; h8-11.30am & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun)
Built in 1929 by the Société des Études Indochinoises, this notable Sino-French museum houses a rewarding collection of artefacts illustrating the evolution of the cultures of Vietnam, from the Bronze Age Dong Son civilisation (which emerged in 2000 BC) and the Funan civilisation (1st to 6th centuries AD), to the Cham, Khmer and Vietnamese. The museum is just inside the main gate to the city’s botanic gardens and zoo.
1Reunification Palace & Around
oWar Remnants MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bao Tang Chung Tich Chien Tranh; %028-3930 5587; http://warremnantsmuseum.com; 28 Ð Vo Van Tan, cnr Ð Le Quy Don; 40,000d; h7.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm)
Formerly the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, the War Remnants Museum is consistently popular with Western tourists. Few museums anywhere convey the brutal effects of war on its civilian victims so powerfully. Many of the atrocities documented here were well publicised, but rarely do Westerners hear the victims of US military action tell their own stories. While some displays are one-sided, many of the most disturbing photographs illustrating US atrocities are from US sources, including those of the infamous My Lai Massacre.
oReunification PalaceHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Dinh Thong Nhat; %028-3829 4117; www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn; Ð Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; adult/child 40,000/20,000d; h7.30-11am & 1-4pm)
Surrounded by royal palm trees, the dissonant 1960s architecture of this government building and the eerie mood that accompanies a walk through its deserted halls make it an intriguing spectacle. The first Communist tanks to arrive in Saigon rumbled here on 30 April 1975 and it’s as if time has stood still since then. The building is deeply associated with the fall of the city in 1975, yet it’s the kitsch detailing and period motifs that steal the show.
Fine Arts MuseumGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bao Tang My Thuat; www.baotangmythuattphcm.com; 97a Ð Pho Duc Chinh; 10,000d; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
With its airy corridors and verandahs, this elegant 1929 colonial-era, yellow-and-white building is stuffed with period details; it is exuberantly tiled throughout and home to some fine (albeit deteriorated) stained glass, as well as one of the city’s oldest lifts. Hung from the walls is an impressive selection of art, including thoughtful pieces from the modern period. As well as contemporary art, much of it (unsurprisingly) inspired by war, the museum displays historical pieces dating back to the 4th century.
1Cholon
Cholon, 5km southwest of the centre, forms the city’s Chinatown. The district has a wealth of wonderful Chinese temples including Thien Hau Pagoda (Ba Mieu, Pho Mieu, Chua Ba Thien Hau; 710 Ð Nguyen Trai) F, dedicated to Thien Hau (Tianhou), the Chinese goddess of the sea, and the fabulously ornamental Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda (Quan De Mieu; 184 Ð Hong Bang) F, built in 1902 by the Fujian Chinese congregation.
oBinh Tay MarketMARKET
(Cho Binh Tay; www.chobinhtay.gov.vn; 57a ÐL Thap Muoi; h6am-7.30pm)
Cholon’s main market has a great clock tower and a central courtyard with gardens. Much of the business here is wholesale but it’s popular with tour groups. The market was originally built by the French in the 1880s; Guangdong-born philanthropist Quach Dam paid for its rebuilding and was commemorated by a statue that is now in the Fine Arts Museum. Expect a friendly welcome when you sit down for breakfast or coffee with the market’s street-food vendors.
C Courses
Saigon Cooking ClassCOOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3825 8485; www.saigoncookingclass.com; 74/7 ÐL Hai Ba Trung; adult/child under 12yr US$39/25; h10am & 2pm Tue-Sun)
Watch and learn from the chefs at Hoa Tuc restaurant as they prepare three mains (including pho bo – beef noodle soup – and some of their signature dishes) and one dessert. A market visit is optional (per adult/child under 12 years US$45/28, including a three-hour class).
TTours
HCMC has some excellent tours, with themes as diverse as street food, craft beer and the city’s art scene.
Street Foodies SaigonFOOD
(%093 210 3985; www.streetfoodiessaigon.com; per person US$59)
Excellent after-dark walking tours exploring the great street-food scene of the alleys and byways of the less-visited Co Giang neighbourhood. Look forward to around four hours of very tasty snacking.
XO ToursCULTURAL
(%0933 083 727; www.xotours.vn; from US$48)
Wearing ao-dai (traditional dress), these women run scooter/motorbike foodie, sights and Saigon by Night tours: super-hospitable and fantastic fun.
Vespa AdventuresTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0122 299 3585; www.vespaadventures.com; 169a Ð De Tham; per person from US$73)
Zooming out of Café Zoom (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/cafezoomsaigon; 169a Ð De Tham; meals 65,000-150,000d; h7am-2am), Vespa Adventures offers entertaining guided city tours on vintage scooters, as well as multiday trips around southern Vietnam. Embracing food, drink and music, the Saigon After Dark tour is brilliant fun, and the new Saigon Craft Beer Tour is essential for travelling hopheads.
oSophie’s Art TourTOURS
(%0933 752 402; www.sophiesarttour.com; per person US$65; h9am-1pm Tue-Sat)
Highly engaging four-hour tours from art experts Sophie Hughes and Stu Palmer who have their fingers on the pulse of the HCMC art scene. Tours visit private collections and contemporary art spaces, explaining the influence of Vietnamese history on artistic style and technique. Especially poignant is learning about ‘combat art’ crafted in the heat of battle during the American War.
4Sleeping
Virtually all budget travellers head straight to the Pham Ngu Lao (PNL) area. HCMC’s backpacker precinct has more than 100 places to stay, most with rooms between US$15 and US$40, and there’s also a good range of hostels. Some hotels with Ð Pham Ngu Lao or Ð Bui Vien addresses are located in alleys off those main streets.
Lily’s HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0948 213 181; lilyhostel.hcm@gmail.com; 35/5 Ð Bui Vien; dm/d US$8/26; naiW)
One of the new breed of modern hostels popping up in Pham Ngu Lao, Lily’s has a warm and welcoming ambience courtesy of the elegant and soothing decor. Located in a quiet lane just off bustling Ð Bui Vien, Lily’s easily bridges the gap between hostel and boutique guesthouse. Some private rooms have a flat-screen TV and minibar.
Saigon Central HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3914 1107; saigoncentralhostel@gmail.com; 54/6 Ð Ky Con; dm/d US$6/26; aiW)
Friendly, family-owned guesthouse located in a quiet lane in a more local area of town – still just a short walk to Pham Ngu Lao, Dong Khoi and Ben Thanh Market, though.
Town House 50GUESTHOUSE, HOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3925 0210; www.townhousesaigon.com; 50e Ð Bui Thi Xuan; dm US$11, r US$35-39; naiW)
Part guesthouse and part boutique hotel, Town House 50 offers stylish accommodation down a quiet laneway on a street with good restaurants and cafes. All dorms and rooms are nonsmoking, and the decor is clean and modern. Rates include a cooked breakfast, and the team at reception have loads of local information on offer.
Diep AnhGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3836 7920; dieptheanh@hcm.vnn.vn; 241/31 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; r US$21-26; aiW)
A step above most PNL guesthouses, figuratively and literally (think thousand-yard stairs), Diep Anh’s tall and narrow shape makes for light and airy upper rooms. The gracious staff ensure they’re kept in good nick.
FlipsideHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3920 5656; www.flipsideadventuretravel.com; 175/24 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; dm US$9; aWs)
Located in a lane with good restaurants, one of HCMC’s most popular and sociable hostels includes modern dorms with personal charging stations and lockers, a rooftop bar and plunge pool, and plenty of experience in planning travel and tours around the country. Ask about the three-day True North motorbike adventure exploring Vietnam’s spectacular Ha Giang province on the Chinese border.
Hideout HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3838 9147; www.vietnamhideouthostels.com; 281 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; dm US$9; aiW)
A modern PNL hostel with an emphasis on good times and meeting other travellers. Dorms are spick and span with bright colours, a free beer per day is on offer at the Hideout Bar next door, and the hostel runs bar crawls six nights a week that are free for guests. Nearby is Hideout’s new Hangout annex.
oNguyen ShackGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP; %028-3822 0501; www.nguyenshack.com; 6/15 Ð Cach Mang Thang Tam; r US$30-50; naW)
Down a quiet residential lane a short walk or motorbike taxi from Pham Ngu Lao or Ben Thanh Market, Nguyen Shack’s first city opening incorporates rustic, country-style decor, spotless and spacious rooms, and a leafy, shared downstairs area. Breakfast is included but there are good cafes just metres away.
5Eating
HCMC is the reigning culinary king of Vietnam. Restaurants here range from dirt-cheap sidewalk stalls to atmospheric villas. Besides brilliant Vietnamese fare, world cuisine – Indian, Japanese, Thai, French, Spanish and Korean – are all on offer. The Dong Khoi area has many top-quality restaurants. Pham Ngu Lao’s eateries are generally less memorable, though there are exceptions. To really discover more of the city’s great street food, a tour is an excellent option.
5Dong Khoi Area
Secret GardenVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 8th fl, 158 Ð Pasteur; meals 55,000-90,000d; h8am-10pm; v)
Negotiate the stairs in this faded HCMC apartment building to arrive at Secret Garden’s wonderful rooftop restaurant. Rogue chickens peck away in the herb garden, Buddhist statues add Asian ambience, and delicious homestyle dishes are served up with city views. Service can sometimes be a little too casual, but it’s worth persevering for the great flavours.
Old Compass CafeCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %090 390 0841; www.facebook.com/oldcompasscafe; 63 Ð Pasteur, 3rd fl; meals 150,000d; h10.30am-10pm Sun-Thu, 10.30am-11pm Fri & Sat; W)
Concealed off busy Pasteur St down an alley and up narrow staircases, Old Compass is a relaxed all-day cafe that often segues into an interesting live music and performance space later at night. Relax over a coffee, wine or craft beer on the comfy sofas, or take advantage of good value, three-course lunch deals. Check Facebook for listings of events.
PropagandaVIETNAMESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3822 9048; www.propagandasaigon.com; 21 Ð Han Thuyen; meals 105,000-185,000d; h7.30am-10.30pm)
Colourful murals and retro socialist posters brighten up this popular bistro with park views. The menu focuses on street-food classics from around Vietnam, all enjoyed with a bustling and energetic ambience. Salads are particularly good: try the wild pepper and green-mango salad with barbecue chicken. Retreat to the 1st floor if downstairs is too crowded.
Barbecue GardenVIETNAMESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.barbecuegarden.com; 135a Ɖ Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; meals 80,000-200,000d; h11am-11pm)
Trees festooned with fairy lights, outdoor tables, and a laid-back ambience make this the ideal spot for groups. Fire up the table-top grills to barbecue different meats and seafood, and partner it all with tasty Vietnamese salads and cold beer. Friday nights are popular with locals celebrating the end of the week, and weekday lunch specials are good value.
5Da Kao & Around
Pho HoaVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 260c Ð Pasteur; meals 60,000-75,000d; h6am-midnight)
This long-running establishment is more upmarket than most but is definitely the real deal – as evidenced by its popularity with regular local patrons. Tables come laden with herbs, chilli and lime, as well as gio chao quay (fried Chinese bread), banh xu xe (glutinous coconut cakes with mung-bean paste) and cha lua (pork-paste sausages wrapped in banana leaves).
Banh Xeo 46AVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3824 1110; 46a Ð Dinh Cong Trang; regular/extra large 70,000/110,000d; h10am-9pm; v)
Locals will always hit the restaurants that specialise in a single dish and this renowned spot serves some of the best banh xeo in town. These Vietnamese rice-flour pancakes stuffed with bean sprouts, prawns and pork (vegetarian versions available) are legendary. Other dishes available include excellent goi cuon (fresh summer rolls with pork and prawn).
SPLURGE
Stylish Indochinese decor features at the slick eatery Quan Bui (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3829 1545; http://quan-bui.com; 17a Ð Ngo Van Nam; meals 69,000-169,000d; h8am-11pm; a) in up-and-coming Ð Ngo Van Nam. Nearby restaurants offer Japanese flavours, but Quan Bui’s focus is on authentic Vietnamese cuisine and many dishes feature the more hearty flavours of northern Vietnam. Cocktails – from the associated bar across the lane – are among HCMC’s best, and upstairs there’s an air-conditioned and smoke-free dining room.
5Pham Ngu Lao Area
Asiana Food TownSTREET FOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %090 377 0836; www.facebook.com/asianafoodtown; 4 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; meals 50,000-100,000d; h8.30am-10pm; av)
Cooling air-con, a handy location near accommodation in Pham Ngu Lao, and a huge selection of street food from around Vietnam and the rest of the Asia are the highlights of this excellent new undercover food court. There’s a convenient supermarket, pharmacy and English-language bookshop as well.
Five OystersVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %09 0301 2123; www.fiveoysters.com; 234 Ð Bui Vien; meals from 45,000d; h9am-11pm)
With a strong seafood slant and friendly service, light and bright Five Oysters in backpackerland is frequently packed with travellers feasting on oysters (30,000d), grilled octopus, seafood soup, snail pie, pho, fried noodles, grilled mackerel with chilli oil and more. Bargain-priced beer also makes it a popular spot along the PNL strip.
5Reunification Palace & Around
Banh Mi Huynh HoaVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 26 Le Thi Rieng; banh mi 33,000d; h2.30-11pm)
This hole-in-the-wall banh mi joint is busy day and night with locals zipping up on motorbikes for stacks of excellent baguettes stuffed with pork, pork and more pork in tasty ways you may not have known existed. Street standing room only.
Ben Thanh Street Food MarketSTREET FOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %090 688 1707; www.facebook.com/pg/BenThanhstreetfoodmarket; 26-30 Ð Thu Khoa Huan; meals from 40,000d; h9am-11pm)
Grab a table at the front of the market, order up some cold beers from the adjacent bar, and then go exploring to put together a mini-feast of well-priced street food. Highlights include fresh oysters from Nha Trang – optional dipping sauces include fiery wasabi – and fragrant bun bo Hue noodles.
Pizza 4P’sPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3622-0500; www.pizza4ps.com; 8 Thu Khoa Huan; pizza & pasta 150,000-330,000d; h10am-2am Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Sun)
Recently opened close to Ben Thanh Market, Pizza 4P’s interesting mix of pasta and Japanese-influenced pizza – trust us, the combinations work – is partnered with excellent craft beer from Ho Chi Minh City’s Heart of Darkness brewery. Booking ahead is recommended as this new branch is very popular.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Happening HCMC is concentrated around the Dong Khoi area, with everything from dives to designer bars open to 1am. Pham Ngu Lao stays open later, and PNL’s Bui Vien is a pedestrians-only street from 7pm to 2am on Saturday and Sunday nights. Dance clubs usually kick off after 10pm; ask around at popular bars about the latest greatest places.
6Dong Khoi Area
oHeart of DarknessCRAFT BEER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %090 301 7596; www.heartofdarknessbrewery.com; 31D Ð Ly Tu Trong; h10am-midnight)
Our pick for the best of HCMC’s craft breweries, with an always interesting selection of innovative beers on tap. The selection varies as Heart of Darkness brewers are always trying something, but the hoppy 7.1% Kurtz’s Insane IPA is a great drop. Secure a wooden table out the front and order up excellent pizza from Pizza 4P’s.
oRogue SaigonCRAFT BEER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %090 236 5780; www.facebook.com/roguesaigon; 11 Ð Pasteur; h4pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 4pm-2am Fri & Sat)
Live music and Vietnamese craft beers combine on Rogue’s rooftop terrace in a pleasantly rundown building on the riverside edge of District 1. You’ll find good beers such as Lac Brewing’s Devil’s Lake IPA and music with a blues, country or rock vibe. The after-dark, shadowy views from this off-the-radar location are pretty cool, too.
Broma: Not a BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0126 387 2603; www.facebook.com/bromabar; 41 ÐL Nguyen Hue; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, 5pm-4am Fri & Sat)
Compact and bohemian rooftop bar overlooking the busy pedestrian mall of Ð Nguyen Hue. It has a good selection of international beers, live gigs, and DJs with a funk, hip-hop and electronica edge.
Heritage RepublicLOUNGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0906 227 576; http://fb.me/heritagerepublic; 10 Ð Pasteur; h24hr; W)
It’s easy to lose track of time in tiny Heritage. By day, relax on a vintage sofa with a smoothie, snuggling up to the resident bulldogs. Suddenly it’s evening and this 24-hour lounge transforms into one of HCMC’s most chilled bars, with a hip crowd spilling onto the streets for beer and cocktails. Discount days for patrons dressed in black.
WorkshopCOFFEE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/the.workshop.coffee; 10 Ð Ngo Duc Ke; coffee from 45,000d; h8am-9pm; W)
Coffee-geek culture comes to HCMC at this spacious upstairs warehouse space that’s also perfect if you need to do some writing or other work. Single-origin, fair-trade roasts from Dalat feature, and there’s a great display of black-and-white photos of old Saigon to peruse while you’re waiting for your Chemex or cold brew.
LaylaCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3827 2279; www.facebook.com/LaylaEateryandBarHCM; 2nd fl, 63 Ð Dong Du; h4pm-1am Mon-Sat, 12.30pm-1am Sun)
With an effortlessly long bar – we’re talking 10 metres plus here – Layla is a laid-back spot that’s perfect for the first or last cocktails of the night. Don’t be surprised if the combination of a chic ambience, super-comfy sofas and Med-style bar snacks – think Italian flatbreads and Spanish tortilla – sees you staying longer then planned.
6Pham Ngu Lao Area
ViewBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.ducvuonghotel.com; 8th fl, Duc Vuong Hotel, 195 Ð Bui Vien; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat & Sun)
Not as elevated as other rooftop bars around town, but less pretentious and a whole lot easier on the wallet. It’s still a good escape to look down on the heaving backpacker bustle of Pham Ngu Lao, and the food menu is also good value.
Ong CaoBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %091 199 6160; www.facebook.com/ongcaosaigon; 240 Ð Bui Vien; h5-11pm Tue-Sun; W)
A hoppy cut above the backpacker bars lining Bui Vien, Ong Cao is your best bet for craft brews in Pham Ngu Lao. Bar snacks, including cheese and charcuterie plates, partner well with 16 taps serving mainly local HCMC beers. Yes, it is more expensive than that 10,000d Bia Saigon along the road, but it’s worth it.
Whiskey & WaresBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0163 279 4179; www.facebook.com/WhiskeyandWares; 196 Ð De Tham; h4.30pm-2am Tue-Sun; W) S
Just a short stroll from Ð Bui Vien, Whiskey & Wares’ blend of fine whiskey, good cocktails and local craft beer is a more sophisticated but still relaxed alternative to Pham Ngu Lao’s backpacker bars. It’s also a top spot to purchase local artisanal goods, and products for sale include hip T-shirts, fragrant soaps and cool prints and postcards.
6Da Kao & Around
Indika SaigonBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0122 399 4260; www.facebook.com/IndikaSaigon; 43 Ð Nguyen Van Giai; h9am-midnight)
Tucked down a narrow laneway, the off-the-radar Indika Saigon is definitely worth venturing to. Negotiate past the hipster barbecue joint and beer bar at the front to Indika’s raffish multiroom labyrinth that’s used for concerts, open-mic sessions, movie nights and DJs. Check out the Facebook page for listings, and be surprised at the emerging energy of the new Saigon.
3Entertainment
Pick up The Word HCMC, Asialife HCMC or The Guide to find out what’s on during your stay in Ho Chi Minh City, or log on to www.anyarena.com or www.wordhcmc.com.
YokoLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3933 0577; www.facebook.com/Yokocafesaigon; 22a Ð Nguyen Thi Dieu; h8am-late; W)
Portraits of John Lennon, Jim Morrison and James Brown look on at this cool shrine to live music. The environment: exposed T-beam joists and concrete floor; the music: anything from funk rock to metal, kicking off around 9pm nightly. New owners have proudly re-energised one of the city’s best live venues. Check Facebook for what’s on.
AcousticLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3930 2239; www.facebook.com/acousticbarpage; 6e1 Ð Ngo Thoi Nhiem; h7pm-midnight; W)
Don’t be misled by the name: most of the musicians are fully plugged in and dangerous when they take to the intimate stage of the city’s leading live-music venue. And judging by the numbers that pack in, the local crowd just can’t get enough. It’s at the end of the alley by the upended VW Beetle; the cocktails are deceptively strong.
ObservatoryLIVE MUSIC
(www.facebook.com/theobservatoryhcmc; h6pm-6am Wed-Sun)
Following the redevelopment of its venue in late 2017, this excellent entertainment cooperative pops up at different locations around town. Check the Facebook page for where to see everything from live bands to DJs from around the globe.
7Shopping
Among the tempting wares to be found in HCMC are embroidered silk shoes, miniature cyclos and fake Zippos engraved with GI philosophy. Boutiques along Ð Le Thanh Ton and Ð Pasteur sell handmade ready-to-wear fashion. In Pham Ngu Lao, shops sell ethnic-minority fabrics, handicrafts, T-shirts and various appealing accessories.
Chung Cu 42 Ton That ThiepCLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 42 Ɖ Ton That Thiep; hmost shops 9am-9pm)
Come for the apartment building partially converted into cool boutique shops, and linger for the young, social-media-savvy fashion labels that produce stylish (but affordable) clothing. There is a sense that HCMC’s hipster boom starts here. Head upstairs, and also through to the back to the second building.
Mai HandicraftsARTS & CRAFTS
(%028-3844 0988; www.maihandicrafts.com; 298 Ð Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Tan Binh District; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) S
A fair-trade shop dealing in ceramics, ethnic fabrics and other gift items that, in turn, support disadvantaged families and street children. To get here, head northwest on ÐL Hai Ba Trung, which becomes Ð Phan Dinh Phung, and turn left on Ð Nguyen Trong Tuyen.
Saigon KitschGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 33 Ð Ton That Thiep; h9am-10pm)
This colourful French-run shop specialises in reproduction propaganda items, emblazoning its revolutionary motifs on coffee mugs, coasters, jigsaws and T-shirts. Also stocks cool laptop and tablet covers fashioned from recycled Vietnamese packaging.
Ben Thanh MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Cho Ben Thanh; ÐL Le Loi, ÐL Ham Nghi, ÐL Tran Hung Dao & Ð Le Lai; h5am-6pm)
Centrally located, Ben Thanh and its surrounding streets comprise one of HCMC’s liveliest areas. Everything that’s commonly eaten, worn or used by the Saigonese is piled high, and souvenirs can be found in equal abundance. Vendors are determined and prices usually higher than elsewhere (restaurant stalls are reasonable), so bargain vigorously and ignore any ‘Fixed Price’ signs.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Be careful in the Dong Khoi area and along the riverfront, where motorbike ‘cowboys’ operate and specialise in bag, phone, tablet and camera snatching. It’s best to leave your passport in your hotel room, and be prudent when you use your smartphone on the street.
INTERNET ACCESS
Free wi-fi access is virtually ubiquitous in all HCMC accommodation and cafes and bars, and if you’re in town for an extended period, securing 4G mobile access with a local SIM card is recommended. Costs are very reasonable, and any one of a number of shops in the backpacker area of Pham Ngu Lao can sort out access for your mobile device of choice.
MEDICAL SERVICES
International Medical Centre (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3827 2366; www.cmi-vietnam.com; 1 Ð Han Thuyen; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) A nonprofit organisation with English-speaking French doctors.
MONEY
Citibank (MAP; 115 ÐL Nguyen Hue) Citibank in the foyer of the Sun Wah Tower dispenses up to 8,000,000d, but only for Citibank cards (2,000,000d maximum for other cards).
GETTING TO CAMBODIA: HCMC TO PHNOM PENH
Getting to the border The busy Moc Bai–Bavet border crossing is the fastest land route between HCMC and Phnom Penh. Pham Ngu Lao travel agencies sell through bus tickets (US$10 to US$15) to Phnom Penh. Allow six hours for the trip.
At the border Cambodian visas (US$30) are issued at the border (you’ll need a passport-sized photo).
Moving on Most travellers have a through ticket.
Post
Post Office (Buu Dien Quan 5; %028-3855 1763; 3 Ð Mac Cuu, District 5; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 8am-6pm Sun) Look for the light-yellow building with a clock.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Dozens of travel agents offer tours of the Mekong Delta and other jaunts beyond HCMC. Some of the better ones include the following:
Sinh Tourist (MAP; %028-3838 9593; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 246 Ð De Tham; h6.30am-10.30pm) Popular budget travel agency.
Handspan Adventure Travel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3925 7605; www.handspan.com; Central Park Bldg, 208 Ɖ Nguyen Trai, 10th fl) Excellent, high-quality tours are available from this HCMC branch of the Hanoi-based travel agency.
Kim Tran Travel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3836 5489; www.thekimtourist.com; 270 Ð De Tham; h7am-9.30pm) Arranges day trips and overnighters around HCMC and Mekong area.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Ho Chi Minh City is served by Tan Son Nhat International Airport (%028-3848 5383; www.tsnairport.hochiminhcity.gov.vn/vn; Tan Binh District), located 7km northwest of central Ho Chi Minh City. A number of airlines offer domestic routes from HCMC.
Jetstar Pacific Airlines (%1900 1550; www.jetstar.com/vn/en/home) Flies to/from Hanoi, Haiphong, Vinh, Hue, Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Buon Ma Thuot, Dong Hoi, Dalat and Danang.
VietJet Air (www.vietjetair.com) Flies to/from Hanoi, Haiphong, Vinh, Dong Hoi, Hue, Danang, Quy Nhon, Nha Trang, Dalat, Buon Ma Thuot and Phu Quoc Island.
Vietnam Air Service Company (Vasco; %028-3845 8017; www.vasco.com.vn) Flies to/from Ca Mau, Con Dao Islands and Rach Gia.
Vietnam Airlines (%028-3832 0320; www.vietnamairlines.com) Flies to/from Hanoi, Haiphong, Vinh, Dong Hoi, Hue, Danang, Quy Nhon, Nha Trang, Dalat, Buon Ma Thuot, Phu Quoc and Thuy Hoa.
BUS
Intercity buses operate from three large stations on the city outskirts, all well served by local bus services from near Ben Thanh Market. Ho Chi Minh City is one place where the open-tour buses really come into their own, as they depart and arrive in the very convenient Pham Ngu Lao area, saving the extra local bus journey or taxi fare.
Any of the travel agencies around town can book open-tour buses. Indicative fares: Mui Ne US$6, Dalat US$10, Nha Trang US$13, Hoi An US$21, Hue US$26 and Hanoi US$47.
Mien Dong bus station (Ben Xe Mien Dong; %028-3829 4056) Buses to locations north of HCMC leave from this huge and busy station in Binh Thanh district, about 5km from central HCMC on Hwy 13 (Quoc Lo 13; the continuation of Ð Xo Viet Nghe Tinh). The station is just under 2km north of the intersection of Ð Xo Viet Nghe Tinh and Ð Dien Bien Phu. Note that express buses depart from the east side, and local buses connect with the west side of the complex.
Mien Tay bus station (Ben Xe Mien Tay; %028-3825 5955; Ð Kinh Duong Vuong) Serves all areas south of HCMC, essentially the Mekong Delta. This huge station is about 10km west of HCMC in An Lac, a part of Binh Chanh district (Huyen Binh Chanh). A taxi here from Pham Ngu Lao costs around 200,000d. Buses and minibuses from Mien Tay serve most towns in the Mekong Delta using air-con express buses and premium minibuses.
TRAIN
Trains from Saigon Train Station (Ga Sai Gon; %028-3823 0105; 1 Ð Nguyen Thong, District 3; hticket office 7.15-11am & 1-3pm) head north to many destinations. Purchase tickets from travel agents for a small booking fee at the train station.
TRANSPORT FROM HCMC
| Destination | Air | Bus | Train |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dalat | 50min; from US$41 | 7hr; from US$10 | N/A |
| Hanoi | 2hr; from US$50 | 41hr; from US47 | 30hr; US$18-40 |
| Hue | 80min; from US$30 | 29hr; from US$26 | 18hr; US$15-27 |
| Nha Trang | 55min; from US$26 | 12hr; from US$13 | 6½hr; US$7-27 |
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Tan Son Nhat Airport is 7km northwest of central HCMC. Metered taxis cost around 180,000d to/from the centre. Stick to either Mai Linh (%028-3838 3838) or Vinasun (%028-3827 2727) taxis.
There are two dedicated airport buses:
Route 109 (20,000d, 50 minutes, 5.30am to 1.30am, every 15 to 20 minutes) goes to the ‘backpacker district’ of Pham Ngu Lao via Ben Thanh Bus Station.
Route 49 (40,000d, 40 minutes, 5.30am to 1.30am, every 15 to 30 minutes) also stops at the Pham Ngu Lao area, via Ben Thanh Market.
MOTORBIKE TAXI
Short hops are around 30,000d. Rides can be booked via the Uber and Grab apps and are usually cheaper.
TAXI
Metered taxis are very affordable; a 2km ride is about 30,000d. Mai Linh Taxi and Vinasun Taxi are reliable. Journeys can also be booked on Uber and Grab.