Vietnam
Hanoi
Northern Vietnam
Halong Bay
Cat Ba Island
Ba Be National Park
Mai Chau
Lao Cai
Bac Ha
Sapa
Dien Bien Phu
Ha Giang Province
North Central Vietnam
Ninh Binh
Tam Coc
Cuc Phuong National Park
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park
Demilitarised Zone (DMZ)
South-Central Vietnam
Hue
Danang
Hoi An
Southeast Coast
Nha Trang
Mui Ne
Southwest Highlands
Dalat
Ho Chi Minh City
Cu Chi
Tay Ninh
Mekong Delta
Vinh Long
Can Tho
Chau Doc
Ha Tien
Phu Quoc Island
Understand Vietnam
Survival Guide
Vietnam
%84 / Pop 95.7 million
Why Go?
A kaleidoscope of dazzling colours and subtle shades, limestone highlands and endless rice paddies, full-on cities and laid-back beach resorts, deeply moving war sites and grand colonial-era architecture – Vietnam has a unique appeal.
The nation is a budget traveller’s dream, with inexpensive transport, outstanding street food, good-value accommodation and bia hoi – perhaps the world’s cheapest beer.
Nature has gifted Vietnam with soaring mountains in the north, tropical islands in the south and a sensational curvaceous coastline of ravishing sandy beaches. Travelling here you’ll witness children riding buffalo, see the impossibly intricate textiles of hill-tribe communities, taste the super-fresh and incredibly subtle flavours of Vietnamese cuisine and hear the buzz of a million motorbikes.
This is a dynamic nation on the move, where life is lived at speed. Prepare yourself for the ride of your life.
When to Go
- Dec–Mar Expect cool weather north of Hue as the winter monsoon brings cloud, mist and drizzle.
- May–Jun Danang’s riverfront explodes with colour and noise during the city’s fireworks festival.
- Jul & Aug Perfect beach time on the central coastline, with balmy sea and air temperatures.
Top Phrases
Hello Xin chào (sin jòw)
Thank you Cảm ơn (ğaảm ern)
How much is this? Cái này giá bao nhiêu? (ğaí này zaá bow nyee·oo)
Entering the Country
Most travellers enter Vietnam by plane or bus, but there are also train links from China and boat connections from Cambodia via the Mekong River. Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
REGIONS AT A GLANCE
Vietnam is incredibly physically, climatically and culturally varied. Jagged alpine peaks define the northern provinces and a pancake-flat river delta enriches the endless rice paddies of the far south. Cave-riddled limestone hills loom over the central belt and there are dense rainforests along its western border.
The northern half of the nation experiences a much cooler winter, and the cuisine, lifestyle and character of the people reflect this. As you head south, the country has more of a tropical feel, with coconut trees outnumbering bamboo plants and fish sauce replacing soy sauce on the menu. The southern provinces are always humid, hot and sticky, their food sweet, spicy, aromatic and complex.
Essential Food & Drink
White rose An incredibly delicate, subtly flavoured shrimp dumpling topped with crispy onions.
Pho Rice-noodle soup. A good pho bo (beef noodle soup) hinges on the broth, which is made from beef bones boiled for hours in water with shallots, ginger, fish sauce, black cardamom, star anise and cassia.
Banh xeo This giant crispy, chewy rice crêpe is made in 12in or 14in skillets or woks and amply filled with pork, shrimp, mung beans and bean sprouts.
Bia hoi ‘Fresh’ or draught beer brewed daily, without additives or preservatives, to be drunk within hours.
Vietnamese coffee Often served iced, with condensed milk.
Top Tips
AExpect crazy driving: traffic can come at you every which way. When crossing busy urban roads maintain a slow, deliberate walking pace.
ATry not to lose your temper; shouting and aggression cause a loss of face for both parties.
AVietnam has more than its fair share of scams; most concern overcharging. Though very rare, more serious dangers (such as unexploded ordnance) can be a real concern.
AIn towns such as Hue and Sapa, and on beaches popular with tourists, expect plenty of hustle from street vendors, cyclo (pedicab or bicycle rickshaw) drivers and the like.
AFew locals speak English away from tourist centres; try to learn a few words of Vietnamese.
AT A GLANCE
Currency Dong (d)
Visas Tourist visas are available for 30 or 90 days.
Money ATMs are widely available.
Language Vietnamese
Emergency Police %113
Exchange Rates
| Australia | A$1 | 17,925d |
| Canada | C$1 | 18,222d |
| Euro | €1 | 26,845d |
| Japan | ¥100 | 20,345d |
| New Zealand | NZ$1 | 16,297d |
| UK | £1 | 30,170d |
| US | US$1 | 22,709d |
For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.
Daily Costs
AGlass of bia hoi (draught beer): from US$0.50
AOne hour on a local bus: US$1.50-2
ACheap hotel: US$10–120 a night, dorms less
ANoodle dish: US$2-3
Useful Websites
The Word (www.wordhcmc.com) This superb magazine has comprehensive coverage and excellent features.
Vietnam Coracle (http://vietnamcoracle.com) Excellent independent travel advice; lots of backroads content.
Vietnam Online (www.vietnamonline.com) Good all-rounder.
Vietnam Highlights
1 Hoi An Wandering the ancient lanes of this historic and perfectly preserved port.
2 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Exploring the colossal caves and outstanding mountainous scenery.
3 Halong Bay Marvelling at the thousands of stunning limestone islands.
4 Hue Exploring the majestic former imperial capital’s temples, tombs and palaces.
5 Ho Chi Minh City Eating some of the best food in the world.
6 Hanoi’s Old Quarter Downing Vietnam’s uniquely refreshing lager beer, bia hoi.
7 Phu Quoc Island Searching for the perfect white-sand beach.
8 Hanoi Experiencing Vietnam’s hugely atmospheric capital and its captivating sights.
9 Mui Ne Chilling at this cosmopolitan beach and water-sports resort.
Hanoi
%024 / Pop 7.58 million
Vietnam’s capital races to make up for time lost to the ravages of war and a government that as recently as the 1990s kept the outside world at bay. Its streets surge with scooters vying for right of way amid the din of constantly blaring horns, and all around layers of history reveal periods of French and Chinese occupation – offering a glimpse into the resilience of ambitious, proud Hanoians.
Negotiate a passage past the ubiquitous knock-off merchants and you’ll find the original streets of the Old Quarter. Defiant real-deal farmers hawk their wares, while city folk breakfast on noodles, practise t’ai chi at dawn or play chess with goateed grandfathers.
Dine on the wild and wonderful at every corner, sample market wares, uncover an evolving arts scene, then sleep soundly in luxury for very little cost. Meet the people, delve into the past and witness the awakening of a Hanoi on the move.
1Sights
Note that some museums are closed on Mondays and take a two-hour lunch break on other days of the week. Check opening hours carefully before setting off.
1Old Quarter
Steeped in history, pulsating with life, bubbling with commerce, buzzing with motorbikes and rich in exotic scents, the Old Quarter is Hanoi’s historic heart and soul. Hawkers pound the streets bearing sizzling, smoking baskets that hide a cheap meal. Pho (noodle soup) stalls and bia hoi (draught beer) dens hug every corner, resonant with the sound of gossip and laughter. Take your time and experience this captivating warren of lanes – this is Asian street life at its purest and most atmospheric. The flip side is that it’s also a notoriously chaotic and polluted enclave, and tough to explore on foot, as you pick your way through an urban assault course of motorbikes (parked and speeding) and cracked pavements. One day the authorities will get round to a pedestrianisation program, but for now enjoy the anarchy.
oBach Ma TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Den Bach Ma; cnr P Hang Buom & P Hang Giay; 
h8-11am & 2-5pm Tue-Sun)
F
In the heart of the Old Quarter, the small Bach Ma Temple is said to be the oldest temple in the city, though much of the current structure dates from the 18th century and a shrine to Confucius was added in 1839. It was originally built by Emperor Ly Thai To in the 11th century to honour a white horse that guided him to this site, where he chose to construct his city walls.
oHeritage HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Ngoi Nha Di San; 87 P Ma May; 10,000d; h9am-noon & 1-6pm)
One of the Old Quarter’s best-restored properties, this traditional merchants’ house is sparsely but beautifully decorated, with rooms set around two courtyards and filled with fine furniture. Note the high steps between rooms, a traditional design incorporated to stop the flow of bad energy around the property.
1Around Hoan Kiem Lake
oHoa Lo Prison MuseumHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3934 2253; cnr P Hoa Lo & P Hai Ba Trung; adult/child 30,000d/free; h8am-5pm)
This thought-provoking site is all that remains of the former Hoa Lo Prison, ironically nicknamed the ‘Hanoi Hilton’ by US prisoners of war (POWs) during the American War. Most exhibits relate to the prison’s use up to the mid-1950s, focusing on the Vietnamese struggle for independence from France. A gruesome relic is the ominous French guillotine, used to behead Vietnamese revolutionaries. There are also displays focusing on the American pilots who were incarcerated at Hoa Lo during the American War.
Hoan Kiem LakeLAKE
Legend claims that, in the mid-15th century, Heaven sent Emperor Ly Thai To a magical sword, which he used to drive the Chinese from Vietnam. After the war a giant golden turtle grabbed the sword and disappeared into the depths of this lake to restore the sword to its divine owners, inspiring the name Ho Hoan Kiem (Lake of the Restored Sword). The area is best on Friday to Sunday when nearby traffic is banned from 7pm to midnight and a public-square, funfair vibe takes over.
National Museum of Vietnamese HistoryMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bao Tang Lich Su Quoc Gia; %024-3825 2853; http://baotanglichsu.vn; 1 P Trang Tien; adult/student 40,000/10,000d; h8am-noon & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun)
Built between 1925 and 1932, this architecturally impressive museum was formerly home to the École Française d’Extrême-Orient. Its architect, Ernest Hebrard, was among the first in Vietnam to incorporate a blend of Chinese and French design elements. Exhibit highlights include bronzes from the Dong Son culture (3rd century BC to 3rd century AD), Hindu statuary from the Khmer and Champa kingdoms, jewellery from imperial Vietnam, and displays relating to the French occupation and the Communist Party.
oVietnamese Women’s MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3825 9936; www.baotangphunu.org.vn; 36 P Ly Thuong Kiet; 30,000d; h8am-5pm)
This excellent modern museum showcases the roles of women in Vietnamese society and culture. Labelled in English and French, it’s the memories of the wartime contribution by individual heroic women that are most poignant. If the glut of information sometimes feels repetitive, for visual stimulation there is a stunning collection of propaganda posters, as well as costumes, tribal basketware and fabric motifs from Vietnam’s ethnic minority groups. Check the website for special exhibitions.
Ngoc Son TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Den Ngoc Son; Hoan Kiem Lake; adult/student 30,000/15,000d; h8am-6pm)
Meaning ‘Temple of the Jade Mountain’, Hanoi’s most visited temple sits on a small island in the northern part of Hoan Kiem Lake, connected to the lakeshore by an elegant scarlet bridge, constructed in classical Vietnamese style. The temple is dedicated to General Tran Hung Dao (who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century), La To (patron saint of physicians) and the scholar Van Xuong.
St Joseph CathedralCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Nha To Lon Ha Noi; P Nha Tho; h8am-noon & 2-6pm)F
Hanoi’s neo-Gothic St Joseph Cathedral was inaugurated in 1886, and boasts a soaring facade that faces a little plaza. Its most noteworthy features are its twin bell towers, elaborate altar and fine stained-glass windows. Entrance via the main gate is only permitted during Mass: times are listed on a sign on the gates to the left of the cathedral.
1West of the Old Quarter
oTemple of LiteratureCONFUCIAN TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Van Mieu Quoc Tu Giam; %024-3845 2917; P Quoc Tu Giam; adult/student 30,000/15,000d; h8am-6pm)
A rare example of well-preserved traditional Vietnamese architecture, the Temple of Literature honours Vietnam’s finest scholars. Founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, the attractive complex is dedicated to Confucius (Khong Tu) and was the site of Vietnam’s first university (1076). The altars are popular with students praying for good grades; while the pagodas, ponds and gardens of the five courtyards make picturesque backdrops for student graduation photos. It is depicted on the 100,000d note.
Ho Chi Minh’s MausoleumMAUSOLEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Lang Chu Tich Ho Chi Minh; %024-3845 5128; www.bqllang.gov.vn; Ba Dinh Sq; h8-11am Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun Dec-Aug, last entry 10.15am)F
In the tradition of Lenin, Stalin and Mao, Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum is a monumental marble edifice. Contrary to his desire for a simple cremation, the mausoleum was constructed from materials gathered from all over Vietnam between 1973 and 1975. Set deep in the bowels of the building in a glass sarcophagus is the frail, pale body of Ho Chi Minh. The mausoleum is usually closed from 4 September to 4 November while his embalmed body goes to Russia for maintenance.
Vietnam Military History MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bao Tang Lich Su Quan Su Viet Nam; %024-733 6453; www.btlsqsvn.org.vn; 28a P Dien Bien Phu; 40,000d, camera fee 20,000d; h8-11.30am daily & 1-4.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun)
Easy to spot thanks to a large collection of weaponry at the front, the Military Museum displays Soviet and Chinese equipment alongside French- and US-made weapons captured during years of warfare. The centrepiece is a Soviet-built MiG-21 jet fighter, triumphant amid the wreckage of French aircraft downed at Dien Bien Phu, and a US F-111.
Fine Arts Museum of VietnamMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bao Tang My Thuat Viet Nam; %024-3733 2131; http://vnfam.vn; 66 P Nguyen Thai Hoc; adult/child 40,000/20,000d; h8.30am-5pm)
The excellent Fine Arts Museum is housed in two buildings that were once the French Ministry of Information. Treasures abound, including ancient Champa stone carvings and some astonishing effigies of Quan Am, the thousand-eyed, thousand-armed Goddess of Compassion. Look out for the lacquered statues of Buddhist monks from the Tay Son dynasty and the collection of contemporary art and folk-naive paintings. Most pieces have English explanations, but guided tours (150,000d) are useful.
Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt HouseHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Nha San Bac Ho & Phu Chu Tich Tai; So 1 Ngo Bach Thao; 25,000d; h8-11.30am daily & 2-4pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun)
This humble, traditional stilt house where Ho lived intermittently from 1958 to 1969 is set in a well-tended garden adjacent to a carp-filled pond and has been preserved just as Ho left it. The clear views through the open doorways and windows give an insight more fascinating than most museum mementos. It’s now used for official receptions and isn’t open to the public, but visitors may wander the grounds if sticking to the paths.
From here, you look out on to the opulent beaux-arts Presidential Palace. There is a combined entrance gate to the stilt house and palace grounds on P Ong Ich Kiem inside the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex. When the main entrance is closed, enter from Ð Hung Vuong.
Ho Chi Minh MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bao Tang Ho Chi Minh; %024-3845 5435; www.baotanghochiminh.vn; 19 P Ngoc Ha; 40,000d; h8am-noon daily & 2-4.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun)
The huge concrete Soviet-style Ho Chi Minh Museum is a triumphalist monument dedicated to the life of the founder of modern Vietnam. The often-confusing exhibition is a mixed bag; highlights include mementos of Ho’s life, and some fascinating photos and dusty official documents relating to the overthrow of the French and the onward march of revolutionary socialism. Photography is forbidden and you may be asked to check your bag at reception.
One Pillar PagodaBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Chua Mot Cot; P Ong Ich Kiem; 25,000d; h8-11.30am daily & 2-4pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun)
The One Pillar Pagoda was originally built by the Emperor Ly Thai Tong who ruled from 1028 to 1054. According to the annals, the heirless emperor dreamed that he met Quan The Am Bo Tat, the Goddess of Mercy, who handed him a male child. Ly Thai Tong then married a young peasant girl and had a son and heir by her. As a way of expressing his gratitude for this event, he constructed a pagoda here in 1049.
Imperial Citadel of Thang LongHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Hoang Thanh Thang Long; www.hoangthanhthanglong.vn; 19c P Hoang Dieu; adult/child 30,000d/free; h8-11.30am daily & 2-4pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun)
Added to Unesco’s World Heritage List in 2010 and reopened in 2012, Hanoi’s Imperial Citadel was the hub of Vietnamese military power for over 1000 years. Ongoing archaeological digs of ancient palaces, grandiose pavilions and imperial gates are complemented by fascinating military command bunkers from the American War – complete with maps and 1960s communications equipment – used by the legendary Vietnamese general Vo Nguyen Giap.
The leafy grounds are also an easygoing and quiet antidote to Hanoi’s bustle.
1Greater Hanoi
oVietnam Museum of EthnologyMUSEUM
(%024-3756 2193; www.vme.org.vn; Ð Nguyen Van Huyen; adult/concession 40,000/15,000d, guide 100,000d; h8.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun)
This fabulous collection relating to Vietnam’s ethnic minorities features well-presented tribal art, artefacts and everyday objects gathered from across the nation, and examples of traditional village houses. Displays are well labelled in Vietnamese, French and English. If you’re into anthropology, it’s well worth the approximately 200,000d-each-way taxi fares to the Cau Giay district, about 7km from the city centre, where the museum is located.
West LakeLAKE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Ho Tay)
The city’s largest lake, known as both Ho Tay and West Lake, is 15km in circumference and ringed by upmarket suburbs, including the predominantly expat Tay Ho district. On the south side, along Ð Thuy Khue, are seafood restaurants, and to the east, the Xuan Dieu strip is lined with restaurants, cafes, boutiques and luxury hotels. The atmosphere makes a calm change from the chaos of the Old Quarter. A pathway circles the lake, making for a great bicycle ride.
C Courses & Tours
oHanoi Free Tour GuidesWALKING
(%0988 979 174; http://hanoifreetourguides.com)F
There’s no better way to experience the real Hanoi than with this not-for-profit social organisation run by a team of over 400 volunteer staff and guides comprising students and ex-students, speaking a multitude of languages. A variety of suggested tours are available, or work with your guide to tailor your own itinerary. Book online.
Vietnam Awesome TravelWALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0904 123 217; www.vietnamawesometravel.com; 19b P Hang Be; tours from US$18)
A wide range of good-value walking tours, including the popular Food on Foot (US$25) street-food walking tours around the Old Quarter. A wide range of day trips and longer guided tours are available. See the website for details.
Hidden HanoiCOOKING, LANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0912 254 045; www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn; 147 P Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; per class with/without market tour US$55/45; h11am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Offers cooking classes from its kitchen near the eastern side of West Lake (Ho Tay). Options include seafood and village-food menus. Walking tours (per person US$25) exploring Hanoi street food are available. Hidden Hanoi also offers a language-study program (per person from $US200), including two field trips.
HANOI STREET EATS
When in Hanoi, chow down with the masses. Most of these stalls specialise in just one dish and have somewhat flexible opening hours.
Bun Cha 34 (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0948 361 971; 34 P Hang Than; meals 35,000d; h8.30am-5pm; 
W) Best bun cha in Vietnam? Many say 34 is up there. No presidents have eaten at the plastic tables, but you get perfectly moist chargrilled pork, zesty fresh herbs and delicious broth to dip everything in. The nem (seafood spring rolls) are great too. Aim for midday for patties straight off the coals.
Bun Rieu Cua (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 40 P Hang Tre; bun rieu 25,000d; h7-9:30am) Get to this incredibly popular spot early, as its sole dish of bun rieu cua (noodle soup with beef in a spicy crab broth) is only served for a couple of hours from 7am. A Hanoi classic.
Banh Cuon (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 14 P Hang Ga; meals from 35,000d; h8am-3pm) Don’t even bother ordering here; just squeeze in and a plate of gossamer-light banh cuon (steamed rice pancakes filled with minced pork, mushrooms and shrimp) will be placed in front of you.
Banh Goi (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 52 P Ly Quoc Su; snacks 35,000d; h10am-7pm) Nestled under a banyan tree near St Joseph Cathedral, this humble stall turns out banh goi, moreish deep-fried pastries crammed with pork, vermicelli and mushrooms.
Banh Mi Hoi An (Bami Bread; MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0981 043 144; 98 P Hang Bac; banh mi 15,000-25,000d; h6.30am-10.30pm) Dense, toasted baguettes with flavoursome pâté and fillings like ga nuong xa (grilled chicken, chili and lemongrass) is what keeps this tiny banh mi branch busy into the night. They often sell out before closing time.
Mien Xao Luon (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 87 P Hang Dieu; meals from 25,000d; h7am-2pm) Head to this humble stall trimmed with mini-mountains of fried eels for three different ways of eating the crisp little morsels. Try them stir-fried in vermicelli with egg, bean sprouts and shallots. The fishy flavour is milder than you might expect.
Pho Thin (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 13 P Lo Duc; pho 50,000d; h6am-8.30pm) Negotiate your way to the rear of this narrow, rustic establishment and sit down to some excellent pho bo (beef noodle soup). A classic Hanoi experience that hasn’t changed in decades.
Xoi Yen (MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr P Nguyen Huu Huan & P Hang Mam; sticky rice from 10,000d; h7am-11pm) Equally good for breakfast or as a stodgy hangover cure, Xoi Yen specialises in sticky rice topped with goodies, including sweet Asian sausage, gooey fried egg and slow-cooked pork. Watching it being prepared is half the fun.
4Sleeping
Many good budget places are in the Old Quarter or neighbouring Hoan Kiem lake area.
4Old Quarter
oCocoon InnHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-388 5333; https://cocooninn.com; 116-118 P Hang Buom; dm/tw from US$8/30; 
a
iW)
This luxury hostel shows off boutique good looks in its dorms and slick bar. Privacy curtains create a cocoon around plush, clean beds, with personal lamps, fans and powerpoints. An entourage of helpful staff can organise tours, airport transfer and visa extensions. It’s on a busy street full of restaurants and bars.
oTomodachi HouseHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3266 9493; http://hanoi.tomodachihouse.com; 5a Tong Duy Tan; dm/d from US$9/27; aiW)
This quiet Japanese-styled flashpacker is on the snazzier western edge of the Old Quarter, near hip all-night eating and drinking. Large, restful dorm beds have their own USB charging, shelf space, privacy curtain and chunky locker. Great breakfast (included) and helpful staff seal the deal, and acoustic guitar livens up the restaurant every Saturday night.
May De Ville BackpackersHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3935 2468; www.maydevillebackpackershostelvietnam.com; 1 Hai Tuong, near P Ta Hien; dm/d from US$10/30; aiW)
A short walk from Ta Hien’s bars, May De Ville is one of Hanoi’s best hostels. Dorms have firm beds but are spotless and there’s also a movie room. Doubles are also good value.
Hanoi HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0972 844 804; www.vietnam-hostel.com; 91c P Hang Ma; dm/d/tr US$6/25/30; aW)
This small, quiet, privately owned hostel is nicely located away from Hanoi’s conglomeration of hostels. It’s well run and clean, with tours on tap and plenty of information about onward travel to China or Laos.
oLa Beauté de HanoiHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3935 1626; www.la-beautehanoihotel.com; 15 Ngo Trung Yen; d/ste from US$61/96; aW)
oGolden Art HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3923 4294; www.goldenarthotel.com; 6a P Hang But; d & tw US$45; 
naiW)
Golden Art enjoys a quiet location on the western edge of the Old Quarter. Rooms are stylish and relatively spacious, and there’s a real can-do attitude from the exceptional and friendly staff. Each room has a laptop, and breakfast (included in the price) includes warm baguettes, omelettes, pho (noodle soup) and fresh fruit.
4Around Hoan Kiem Lake
oNexy HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-7300 6399; www.nexyhostels.com; 12 P To Tich; dm/tw/tr from $9/35/40; aW)
A new wave of flashpackers has arrived, looking for modern, clean dorms and bathrooms, soft beds with privacy curtains, quality linen and ample locked storage, plus staff who speak excellent English. Boutique hostel Nexy has all this, plus a standout location near Hoan Kiem Lake. Nexy also boasts a calm bar, games room, small lounge and rooftop zones.
Especen HotelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3824 4401; www.especen.vn; 28 P Tho Xuong; d US$13-25; aiW)
This budget hotel near St Joseph Cathedral has spacious and light rooms, excellent rates and an almost-tranquil location (by Old Quarter standards). There are two annexes within walking distance.
Madame Moon HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3938 1255; www.madammoonguesthouse.com; 17 P Hang Hanh; d & tw from US$28; aiW)
Keeping it simple just one block from Hoan Kiem Lake, Madame Moon has surprisingly chic rooms and a (relatively) traffic-free location in a street filled with local cafes and bars. Note that there are three hotels belonging to Madame Moon. This review is for the Hang Hanh property.
5Eating
Hanoi offers cuisine from all over the world but as the capital’s grub is so tasty, fragrantly spiced and inexpensive, you’re best sticking to local fare. Don’t miss the street food either.
5Old Quarter
oNew DayVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3828 0315; http://newdayrestaurant.com; 72 P Ma May; meals 50,000-100,000d; h8am-late)
Busy New Day attracts locals, expats and travellers alike with its broad menu. The eager staff always find space for new diners, so look forward to sharing a table with some like-minded fans of Vietnamese food. It’s not advertised, but evening diners can point and choose from dishes for a mixed plate for about 100,000d.
oBlue ButterflyVIETNAMESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3926 3845; http://bluebutterflyrestaurant.com; 69 P Ma May; meals 100,000-300,000d; h8am-10.30pm)
Blue Butterfly floats above its weight with the lamp-lit dark-wood stylings of a heritage house and a good-value menu of Vietnamese classics. Staff offer knowledgeable suggestions and demonstrate how to tackle dishes such as nem lui, pork grilled on lemongrass skewers, wrapped in rice paper and dipped in peanut sauce. Set menus (from 350,000d) are available.
Cha Ca Thang LongVIETNAMESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3824 5115; www.chacathanglong.com; 19-31 P Duong Thanh; cha ca fish meal 180,000d; h10am-3pm & 5-10pm)
Bring along your DIY cooking skills and grill your own succulent fish with a little shrimp paste and plenty of herbs. Cha ca (fish burger) is an iconic Hanoi dish heavy on turmeric and dill; while another nearby more-famous cha ca eatery gets all the tour-bus traffic, the food here is actually better.
Highway 4VIETNAMESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3926 0639; www.highway4.com; 3 P Hang Tre; meals 110,000-290,000d; hnoon-late)
This is the original location of a restaurant family famed for adapting Vietnamese cuisine to Western palates, although with increasing popularity it becomes harder to please everybody. There are now four other branches in Hanoi: check the website for locations. Come for small plates to share, cold beer, cocktails and funky decor.
SPLURGE
The stylish bistro La Badiane (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3942 4509; www.labadiane-hanoi.com; 10 Nam Ngu; meals from 280,000d; h11.30am-2pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat) is set in a restored, whitewashed French villa arrayed around a breezy central courtyard. French cuisine underpins the menu – La Badiane translates as ‘star anise’ – but Asian and Mediterranean flavours also feature. Menu highlights include sea-bass tagliatelle with smoked paprika, and prawn bisque with wasabi tomato bruschetta. Three-course lunches (385,000d) are excellent value, and there’s an evening degustation (1,490,000d).
5Around Hoan Kiem Lake
Jalus Vegan KitchenVEGAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3266 9730; 2nd fl, 46 Hang Trong; meals 30,000-60,000d; h8am-10pm Tue-Sun; aW
v)
oHanoi Social ClubCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3938 2117; www.facebook.com/TheHanoiSocialClub; 6 Hoi Vu; meals 95,000-175,000d; h8am-11pm)
On three funky levels with retro furniture, the Hanoi Social Club is the city’s most cosmopolitan cafe and an artist hub. Dishes include potato fritters with chorizo for breakfast, and pasta, burgers and wraps for lunch or dinner. Vegetarian options feature a tasty mango curry, and the quiet laneway location is a good spot for an end-of-day coffee, beer or wine.
5West of the Old Quarter
Ray QuanVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0913 578 588; 48 Le Duan; dishes 30,000-120,000d)
Popular with expats in the know, this quirky spot directly on the train tracks won’t be for everyone, but those who like it, will love it. A wide range of delicious Vietnamese cuisine is cooked to order by the eccentric owner-chef who ferments her own rice wine: it’s strong and delicious.
Net HueVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3938 1795; http://nethue.com.vn; 198 P Hang Bong; snacks & meals from 35,000d; h11am-9pm)
One of a small chain, Net Hue is well priced for such comfortable surroundings. Head to the top floor for the nicest ambience and enjoy Hue-style dishes like banh nam (steamed rice pancake with minced shrimp).
Quan An NgonVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3942 8162; http://quananngon.com.vn; 18 Phan Boi Chau; meals 70,000-150,000d; h7am-11pm)
This branch of a number of small same-named kitchens turns out street-food specialities from across Vietnam. Try to visit just outside the busy lunch and dinner periods, or consider Quan An Ngon’s newest branch (MAP; %024-3734 9777; www.ngonhanoi.com.vn; 34 P Phan Đinh Phung; meals 70,000-150,000d; h11am-11pm) in a lovely French villa just north of the Old Quarter.
KotoCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Nha Hang Koto Van Mieu; %024-3747 0338; www.koto.com.au; 59 P Van Mieu; meals 120,000-160,000d; h7.30am-10pm, closed dinner Mon)
Stunning four-storey modernist cafe-bar-restaurant overlooking the Temple of Literature, where the interior design has been taken very seriously, from the stylish seating to the fresh flowers by the till. Daily specials are chalked up on a blackboard, and the short menu has everything from excellent Vietnamese food to yummy pita wraps and beer-battered fish and chips.
6Drinking & Nightlife
With dive bars, congenial pubs, sleek lounges and clubs, and bia hoi joints by the barrel-load, you won’t go thirsty in Hanoi. Ha Tien in the Old Quarter has a choice of bars and is a good starting or finishing point for a crawl. Cafes come in every persuasion too. Coffee meccas include P Trieu Viet Vuong, around 1km south of Hoan Kiem Lake, which has scores of cafes.
oTadiotoBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-6680 9124; www.fb.me/tadiototongdan; 24b P Tong Dan; h8am-midnight)
Nguyen Qui Duc’s unofficial clubhouse for the underground art scene’s latest incarnation is this dark and quirky colonial bar in the French Quarter. Obligatory red accents (seat covers, wrought-iron grill on the doors), reworkings of art deco furniture and plenty of recycled ironwork feature heavily. It attracts many well-dressed visitors. The highlight of the cool cocktail list is the sweet mojito.
oNolaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 89 P Ma May; h9am-midnight)
Retro furniture and art are mixed and matched in this bohemian multilevel labyrinth tucked away from Ma May’s tourist bustle. Pop in for a coffee and banana bread in a quiet section, or return after dark for one of Hanoi’s best little bars.
Moose & RooPUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3200 1289; www.mooseandroo.com; 42b P Ma May; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat, 10am-11pm Sun)
This jovial Canadian-Aussie-themed pub and grill serves excellent home-style comfort food (burgers, pulled pork, wings, fish and chips) in a fun and friendly environment. One for the homesick or those looking to meet other travellers.
Bia Hoi Ha NoiBIA HOI
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 2 P Duong Thanh)
A bia hoi junction that is local in flavour is where P Nha Hoa meets P Duong Thanh on the western edge of the Old Quarter. Bia Hoi Ha Noi does the best spare ribs in town for a little something to go with the beer.
Quan LyBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3822 5276; 82 P Le Van Hu; h10am-9pm)
Owner Pham Xuan Ly has lived on this block since 1950, and now runs one of Hanoi’s most traditional ruou (Vietnamese wine) bars. Kick off with the ginseng one, and work your way up. An English-language menu makes it easy to choose, and there’s also cheap beer and good Vietnamese food on offer.
Café Duy TriCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3829 1386; 43a P Yen Phu; h8am-6pm)
In the same location since 1936, this caffeine-infused labyrinth is a Hanoi classic. You’ll feel like Gulliver as you negotiate the tiny ladders and stairways to reach the 3rd-floor balcony. Delicious caphe sua chua (iced coffee with yoghurt) may be your new favourite summertime drink. You’ll find P Yen Phu a couple of blocks east of Truc Bach Lake.
Cafe Pho CoCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 4th fl, 11 P Hang Gai; h8am-11pm)
One of Hanoi’s most hidden cafes, this place has plum views over Hoan Kiem Lake. Enter through the silk shop, and continue through the antique-bedecked courtyard up to the top floor for the mother of all vistas. You’ll need to order coffee and snacks before tackling the final winding staircase. Try sweet caphe trung da, coffee topped with silky-smooth beaten egg yolk.
Manzi Art SpaceBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3716 3397; www.facebook.com/manzihanoi; 14 Phan Huy Ich; hcafe 9am-midnight, shop 10am-6pm)
Part cool art gallery, part chic cafe and bar, Manzi is worth seeking out north of the Old Quarter. A restored French villa hosts diverse exhibitions of painting, sculpture and photography, and the compact courtyard garden is perfect for a cup of coffee or glass of wine. There’s also a small shop selling works by contemporary Vietnamese artists.
Cong CapheCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://congcaphe.com; 152 P Trieu Viet Vuong)
Settle in to the eclectic beats and kitsch Communist memorabilia at the hip Cong Caphe with a caphe sua da (iced coffee with condensed milk). You’ll notice a bunch of branches around the city; a full list appears on its website.
Loading T CafeCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0122-786 8686; 2nd fl, 8 Chan Cam; h8am-6pm; W)
Architecture lovers will especially love this cafe converted from a room in a dilapidated French colonial house. The ornate tiled floor, vintage fans and other design gems capture Hanoi’s faded glamour. Homemade cakes, fresh juices and coconut or yoghurt coffee are on the menu.
SCAM ALERT
Hanoi is a very safe city on the whole and crimes against tourists are extremely rare. That said, the city certainly has its share of scams. Make sure you report any to the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3942 3760; www.vietnamtourism.gov.vn; 80 P Quan Su), who might well pressure the cowboys into cleaning up their act.
Fake hotels The taxi and minibus mafia at the airport take unwitting tourists to the wrong hotel. Invariably, the hotel has appropriated the name of another popular property and will then attempt to swindle as much of your money as possible. Check out a room before you check in. And walk on if you have any suspicions.
Hotel tours Some budget hotel staff have been verbally aggressive and threatened physical violence towards guests who’ve declined to book tours through their in-house tour agency. Don’t feel pressured, and if it persists, find another place to stay.
After midnight Walking alone at night is generally safe in the Old Quarter, but you should always be aware of your surroundings. Hailing a taxi is a good idea if it’s late and you have a long walk home.
The kindness of strangers There’s a scam going on around Hoan Kiem Lake where a friendly local approaches you offering to take you out. Your new friend may then suggest a visit to a karaoke bar or a snake-meat restaurant, and before you know it you’re presented with a bill for hundreds of dollars. Be careful and follow your instincts.
3Entertainment
oBinh Minh Jazz ClubLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.minhjazzvietnam.com; 1 P Trang Tien; hperformances 9pm-midnight)F
This atmospheric venue tucked behind the Opera House is the place in Hanoi to catch live jazz. There’s a full bar, food menu and high-quality gigs featuring father-and-son team Minh and Dac, plus other local and international jazz acts. Free admission means the small, smoky venue fills quickly, so get there early.
The club is owned by the local saxophonist legend Quyen Van Minh. Check the website for listings.
Hanoi Rock CityLIVE MUSIC
(%0943 571 984; www.hanoirockcity.com; 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho)
Hanoi Rock City is tucked away down a residential lane about 7km north of the city near Tay Ho, but it’s a journey well worth taking for reggae, Hanoi punk and regular electronica nights. A few international acts swing by, so check the website or https://tnhvietnam.xemzi.com for listings.
7Shopping
The Old Quarter is brimming with temptations: fake sunglasses, T-shirts, musical instruments, herbal medicines, jewellery, spices, propaganda art, fake English Premier League football kits and much, much more.
For ethnic minority garb and handicrafts, P Hang Bac and P To Tich are good hunting grounds. North and northwest of Hoan Kiem Lake around P Hang Gai, P To Tich, P Hang Khai and P Cau Go are dozens of shops offering handicrafts, artwork and antiques.
Dong Xuan MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Dong Xuan; h6am-7pm)
This is a large, non-touristy market located in the Old Quarter of Hanoi, 900m north of Hoan Kiem Lake. There are hundreds of stalls here and much of it is household items or tat, but it’s a fascinating place to explore if you want to catch a flavour of local Hanoian life. The area around it also has loads of bustling shops, and stalls appear when night falls.
Things of SubstanceCLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3828 6965; 5 P Nha Tho; h9am-9pm)
Tailored fashions and some off-the-rack items at moderate prices. The staff are professional and speak decent English.
IndigenousARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3938 1263; 36 P Au Trieu; h9am-6pm)
A top spot for quirky ethnic-style gifts and excellent fair-trade coffee. There’s a great little cafe too, so you can choose your favourite Vietnamese java before you buy.
HANOI ON THE WEB
Hanoi has some great online resources:
TNH Vietnam (tnhvietnam.xemzi.com) Premier resource with useful restaurant reviews.
Hanoi Grapevine (www.hanoigrapevine.com) What’s on in Hanoi.
Sticky Rice (www.stickyrice.typepad.com) Brilliant foodie website.
The Word (www.wordhanoi.com) Great articles.
And Of Other Things (www.andofotherthings.com) All things arty.
8Information
INTERNET ACCESS
AMost budget and midrange hotels offer free access to a computer and the internet: at fancier places in the rooms, at cheaper places in the lobby.
AFree wi-fi access is virtually ubiquitous in the city’s cafes and bars, but dedicated internet cafes are largely a thing of the past, so pack a tablet or smartphone.
AIf you are staying longer than a week, consider getting a prepaid SIM card to stay connected on your (unlocked) device. Viettel (MAP; http://international.viettel.vn; 51 Luong Van Can; h8am-8pm) will sell and set up a SIM for about US$8 with 1GB, after which you get unlimited data at slower speeds for the month. Passport required as ID.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hanoi Family Medical Practice (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3843 0748; www.vietnammedicalpractice.com; Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 298 P Kim Ma; h24hr) Located a few hundred metres west of the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex, this practice includes a team of well-respected international physicians and dentists, and has 24-hour emergency cover. Prices are high, so check that your medical travel insurance is in order.
MONEY
Hanoi has many ATMs. On the main roads around Hoan Kiem Lake are international banks where you can change money and get cash advances on credit cards.
TOURIST INFORMATION
In the cafes and bars of the Old Quarter, look for the excellent local magazine The Word.
Tourist Information & Support Center (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %24hr English hotline 0941 336 677, Vietnamese 0911 081 968; 28 P Hang Dau; h8am-5pm Wed-Sun) Hanoi finally has an official tourist information desk, although the location near the Long Bien bridge might put off those staying south around Hoan Kiam Lake. They offer four free walking tours, themed by architecture, history, Hoan Kiem Lake and Hanoi’s craft streets.
Tourist Information Center (MAP; %024-3926 3366; P Dinh Tien Hoang; h9am-7pm) City maps and brochures, but privately run with an emphasis on selling tours.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Hanoi has hundreds of budget travel agencies. The agencies we recommend have professional, knowledgeable staff and coordinate well-organised trips with a high rate of guest satisfaction. Most run smaller groups and use their own vehicles and guides.
It’s not advisable to book trips or tickets through guesthouses and hotels.
Ethnic Travel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3926 1951; www.ethnictravel.com.vn; 35 P Hang Giay; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) Off-the-beaten-track trips across the north in small groups. Some trips are low-impact using public transport and homestays, others are activity based (including hiking, cycling and cooking). Offers Bai Tu Long Bay tours and also has an office in Sapa.
Handspan Adventure Travel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3926 2828; www.handspan.com; 78 P Ma May; h9am-8pm) Sea-kayaking trips in Halong Bay and around Cat Ba Island, plus 4WD, mountain-biking and trekking tours. Other options include remote areas such as Moc Chau and Ba Be National Park, community-based tourism projects in northern Vietnam, and the Treasure Junk, the only true sailing craft cruising Halong Bay. Handspan also has offices in Sapa and Ho Chi Minh City.
Mr Linh’s Adventure Tours (MAP; %024-3642 5420; www.mrlinhadventure.com; 83 P Ma May) A professional, friendly outfit specialising in off-the-beaten-track and adventure travel in Vietnam’s remote north. Ba Be Lakes homestay trips are recommended.
Vega Travel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3926 2092; www.vegatravel.vn; cnr P Ma May & 24a P Hang Bac; h8am-8pm) Family-owned-and-operated company offering well-run tours around the north of the country and throughout Vietnam. Excellent guides and drivers, and it also financially supports ethnic minority kindergartens and schools around Sapa and Bac Ha. Halong Bay tours on a private boat are excellent value and bespoke touring is available.
CATCHING THE BUS TO CHINA
Two daily services (at 7.30am and 9.30am) to China’s Nanning (‘Nam Ninh’ in Vietnamese; 480,000d, nine hours) leave from 206 Ɖ Tran Quang Khai. Tickets should be purchased in advance through a reputable travel agency. Be sure you have the correct Chinese visa.
The bus runs to the border at Dong Dang, where you pass through Chinese immigration. You then change to a Chinese bus, which continues to the Lang Dong bus station in Nanning. Reports from Nanning-bound travellers indicate that this route is less hassle and quicker than the 13-hour trip by sleeper train from Gia Lam Railway Station (Ga Gia Lam), which is an eight-minute walk north of Gia Lam Bus Station.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Hanoi has fewer direct international flights than Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), but with excellent connections through Singapore, Hong Kong or Bangkok you can get almost anywhere easily.
Vietnam Airlines (MAP; %1900 545 486; www.vietnamair.com.vn; 25 P Trang Thi; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Links Hanoi to destinations throughout Vietnam. Popular routes include Hanoi to Dalat, Danang, Dien Bien Phu, Ho Chi Minh City, Hue, Nha Trang and Phu Quoc Island, all served daily.
Jetstar Airways (www.jetstar.com) Operates low-cost flights to Danang, Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang.
VietJet Air (www.vietjetair.com) This low-cost airline has flights to Hanoi, Nha Trang, Danang, Dalat and Bangkok.
BUS
Hanoi has three main long-distance bus stations of interest to travellers (a fourth – Luong Yen – was closed in late 2016). They are fairly well organised, with ticket offices, fixed prices and schedules, though can be crowded and at times chaotic. Consider buying tickets the day before you plan to travel on the longer-distance routes, to ensure a seat. It’s often easier to book through a travel agent, but you’ll obviously be charged a commission.
Tourist-style minibuses can be booked through most hotels and travel agents. Popular destinations include Halong Bay and Sapa. Prices are usually about 30% to 40% higher than the regular public bus, but include a hotel pick-up.
Many open-ticket tours through Vietnam start or finish in Hanoi.
Giap Bat Bus Station (%024-3864 1467; Ð Giai Phong) Serves points south of Hanoi, and offers more comfortable sleeper buses. It is 7km south of Hanoi train station.
Gia Lam Bus Station (%024-3827 1569; 132 Ngo Gia Kham) Has buses to regions north and northeast of Hanoi. It’s located 3km northeast of the city centre across the Song Hong (Red River).
My Dinh Bus Station (%024-3768 5549; Ð Pham Hung) This station 7km west of the city provides services to the west and the north, including sleeper buses to Dien Bien Phu for onward travel to Laos. It’s also the best option for buses to Ha Giang and Mai Chau.
BUSES FROM HANOI
Gia Lam Bus Station
| DESTINATION | DURATION (HR) | COST (D) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ba Be | 5 | 150,000 | noon daily |
| Bai Chay (Halong City) | 3½ | 130,000 | every 30min |
| Haiphong | 2 | 70,000 | frequent |
| Lang Son | 5 | 90,000 | every 45min |
| Lao Cai | 9 | 320,000 | 6.30pm & 7pm (sleeper) |
| Mong Cai | 9 | 200,000 | hourly (approx) |
| Sapa | 10 | 250,000 | 6.30pm & 7pm (sleeper) |
My Dinh Bus Station
| DESTINATION | DURATION (HR) | COST (D) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cao Bang | 10 | 260,000 | 9pm |
| Dien Bien Phu | 8 | 365,000 | 11am & 6pm |
| Ha Giang | 8 | 300,000 | six daily |
| Hoa Binh | 2 | 40,000 | frequent |
| Son La | 7 | 200,000 | frequent |
Giap Bat Bus Station
| DESTINATION | DURATION (HR) | COST (D) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dalat | 35 | 470,000 | 9am & 11am |
| Danang | 12 | 380,000 | frequent sleepers noon-6pm |
| Dong Ha | 8 | 380,000 | frequent sleepers noon-6pm |
| Dong Hoi | 8 | 380,000 | frequent sleepers noon-6pm |
| Hue | 10 | 365,000 | frequent sleepers noon-6pm |
| Nha Trang | 32 | 710,000 | 10am, 3pm, 6pm |
| Ninh Binh | 2 | 70,000 | frequent 7am-6pm |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Car hire is best arranged via a travel agency or tour operator. The roads in the north are in pretty good shape but expect an average speed of 35km to 40km per hour. You’ll definitely need a 4WD. Daily rates start at about US$110 a day (including driver and petrol).
TRAIN
The main Hanoi Train Station (Ga Hang Co, Train Station A; %024-3825 3949; 120 Ð Le Duan; hticket office 7.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-7.30pm) is at the western end of P Tran Hung Dao. Trains from here go to destinations south. To the right of the main entrance of the train station is a separate ticket office for northbound trains to Lao Cai (for Sapa) and China. Note that all northbound trains leave from a separate station (just behind the main station) called Tran Quy Cap Station (Train Station B; %024-3825 2628; P Tran Quy Cap; hticket office 4-6am & 4-10pm).
To make things even more complicated, some northbound (Lao Cai and Lang Son included) and eastbound (Haiphong) trains depart from Gia Lam on the eastern side of the Song Hong (Red River), and Long Bien on the western (city) side of the river. Be sure to ask just where you need to go to catch your train.
Schedules, fares, information and advance bookings are available at Bau Lau (www.baolau.vn). Travel agents will also book train tickets for a commission.
It’s best to buy tickets at least one day before departure to ensure a seat or sleeper.
TRAINS FROM HANOI
Eastern & Northbound Trains
| DESTINATION | STATION | DURATION (HR) | HARD SEAT/SLEEPER | SOFT SEAT/SLEEPER | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Beijing | Tran Quy Cap | 18 | US$240 | US$352 | 6.30pm Tue & Fri |
| Haiphong | Gia Lam | 2 | 60,000d | 70,000d | 6am |
| Haiphong | Long Bien | 2½-3 | 60,000d | 70,000d | 9.20am, 3.30pm & 6.10pm |
| Nanning | Gia Lam | 12 | US$28 | US$42 | 9.40pm |
Southbound Trains
| DESTINATION | HARD SEAT | SOFT SEAT | HARD SLEEPER | SOFT SLEEPER |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Danang | from 430,000d | from 630,000d | from 782,000d | from 954,000d |
| HCMC | from 790,000d | from 1,160,000d | from 1,340,000d | from 1,692,000d |
| Hue | from 374,000d | from 545,000d | from 675,000d | from 894,000d |
| Nha Trang | from 692,000d | from 998,000d | from 1,240,000d | from 1,647,000d |
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Hanoi’s Noi Bai International Airport (HAN; www.hanoiairportonline.com; %024-3827 1513) is 35km north of the city. Don’t use freelance taxi drivers touting for business – the chances of a rip-off are too high. Here are the transport options:
Airport Taxi (%024-3873 3333) US$20 for a door-to-door taxi ride.
Public bus 17 (9000d, 1½ hours) To/from Long Bien bus station.
Express bus 86 (30,000) To/from north side of Hoan Kiem Lake.
Vietnam Airlines minibus (MAP; 1 Quang Trung) (40,000d, every 45 minutes 5am-7pm) To/from the Vietnam Airlines office on Quang Trung. Departs when full and can be unreliable.
BICYCLE
Many Old Quarter guesthouses and cafes offer bike hire for about US$3 per day.
BUS
Hanoi has an extensive public bus system, though few tourists take advantage of the rock-bottom fares (3000d). If you’re game, pick up the Xe Buyt Ha Noi (Hanoi bus map; 5000d) from the Thang Long bookshop (Hieu Sach Thang Long; MAP; %024-825 7043; 53-55 P Trang Tien; h9am-6pm).
CYCLO
A few cyclo (pedicab) drivers still frequent the Old Quarter but they tend to charge more than taxis, around 60,000d for a shortish journey.
MOTORCYCLE TAXI
You’ll easily find a xe om (motorbike taxi) in Hanoi. An average journey in the city centre costs around 15,000d to 20,000d, while a trip further to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum is around 35,000d to 40,000d. For two or more people, a metered taxi is usually cheaper than a convoy of xe om.
TAXIS
Several reliable companies offer metered taxis. All charge fairly similar rates. Flag fall is around 20,000d, which takes you 1km to 2km; every kilometre thereafter costs around 15,000d. Some dodgy operators have high-speed meters, so use these more reliable companies and beware of copycats with similar colours. App-based companies Uber (uber.com) and Grab (grab.com) operate taxi-like cars and motorbikes in Hanoi, even from the airport.
Hanoi Taxi (%024-3853 5353)
Mai Linh (%024-3822 2666)
Thanh Nga Taxi (%024-3821 5215)
Van Xuan (%024-3822 2888)
CRUISING THE KARSTS: TOURS TO HALONG BAY
Halong Bay tours sold in Hanoi start from US$60 per person for a dodgy day trip, rising to around US$220 for two nights on the bay with kayaking. For around US$110 to US$130 you should get a worthwhile overnight cruise. Some tips:
AWe get many complaints about poor service, bad food and rats running around on the boats, but these tend to be on the ultra-budget tours.
AMost tours include transport, meals and, sometimes, island hikes or kayaking. Cruises tend to follow a strict itinerary, with stops at touristy caves. On an overnight trip there’s simply not time to stray far from Halong City.
ABoat tours are sometimes cancelled in bad weather – ascertain in advance what refund will be given.
ATake care with your valuables on day trips; most overnight cruises have lockable cabins.
AIf you want to experience Halong Bay without the crowds, consider heading to Cat Ba Island. From there, tour operators concentrate on Lan Ha Bay, which is relatively untouched and has sublime sandy beaches.
Northern Vietnam
Vistas. This is Vietnam’s big-sky country; a place of rippling mountains, cascading rice terraces and karst topography. Halong Bay’s seascape of limestone towers is the view everyone’s here to see, but the karst connection continues inland to Ba Be’s sprawling lakes until it segues into the evergreen hills of the northwest highlands. And right on the Chinese border, everything you’ve heard about Ha Giang province is true. It really is that spectacular.
Not to be outdone by the scenery, northern Vietnam’s cultural kaleidoscope is just as diverse. In this heartland of hill-tribe culture, villages snuggle between paddy field patchworks outside of Sapa and the scarlet headdresses of the Dzao and the Black Hmong’s indigo fabrics add dizzying colour to chaotic highland markets. If you’re up for some road-tripping, this is the place to do it.
Halong Bay
Towering limestone pillars and tiny islets topped by forest rise from the emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. Designated a World Heritage Site in 1994, Halong Bay’s scatter of islands, dotted with wind- and wave-eroded grottoes, is a vision of ethereal beauty and, unsurprisingly, northern Vietnam’s number one-tourism hub.
Sprawling Halong City (also known as Bai Chay) is the bay’s main gateway, but its high-rises are a disappointing doorstep to this site. Most visitors opt for cruise tours that include sleeping on board within the bay, while a growing number are deciding to eschew the main bay completely, heading straight for Cat Ba Island from where trips to less-visited but equally alluring Lan Ha Bay are easily set up.
All visitors must purchase entry tickets for the national park (40,000d) and there are also separate admission tickets for attractions in the bay, such as caves and fishing villages (30,000d to 50,000d).
Cat Ba Island
%0225 / Pop 13,500
Rugged, craggy and jungle-clad Cat Ba, the largest island in Halong Bay, has experienced a tourism surge in recent years. The central hub of Cat Ba Town is now framed by a chain of low-rise concrete hotels along its once-lovely bay, but the rest of the island is largely untouched and as wild as ever. With idyllic Lan Ha Bay just offshore, you’ll soon overlook Cat Ba Town’s overdevelopment.
Almost half of Cat Ba Island (with a total area of 354 sq km) and 90 sq km of the adjacent waters were declared a national park in 1986 to protect the island’s diverse ecosystems. Most of the coastline consists of rocky cliffs, but there are some sandy beaches and tiny fishing villages hidden away in small coves.
Lakes, waterfalls and grottoes dot the spectacular limestone hills, the highest rising 331m above sea level. The island’s largest body of water is Ech Lake (3 hectares).
1Sights
oLan Ha BayBAY
(40,000d)
Lying south and east of Cat Ba Town, the 300 or so karst islands and limestone outcrops of Lan Ha are just as beautiful as those of Halong Bay and have the additional attraction of numerous white-sand beaches. Due to it being a fair way from Halong City, not so many tourist boats venture here, meaning Lan Ha Bay has a more isolated appeal. Sailing and kayak trips here are best organised in Cat Ba Town.
oCannon FortHISTORIC SITE
(40,000d; hsunrise-sunset)
For one of the best views in Vietnam – no, we’re not kidding – head to Cannon Fort where there are astounding panoramas of Cat Ba Island’s jungle-clad hills rolling down to colourful tangles of fishing boats in the harbour and out to the karst-punctuated sea beyond.
The entrance gate is a steep 10-minute walk from Cat Ba Town and from the gate it’s another stiff 20-minute walk to the fort, or take a xe om from Cat Ba Town (15,000d).
Cat Ba National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(%0225-216 350; 40,000d; hsunrise-sunset)
Cat Ba’s beautiful national park is home to 32 types of mammal, including most of the world’s 65 remaining golden-headed langur, the world’s most endangered primate. There are some good hiking trails here, including a hard-core 18km route up to a mountain summit. To reach the park headquarters at Trung Trang, hop on the green QH public bus from the docks at Cat Ba Town (25,000d, 7am, 11am and 3pm), hire a xe om (around 80,000d one way) or hire a motorbike for the day.
Hospital CaveHISTORIC SITE
(admission 40,000d; h7am-4.30pm)
Hospital Cave served both as a secret bomb-proof hospital during the American War and as a safe house for Viet Cong (VC) leaders. Built between 1963 and 1965 (with assistance from China), this incredibly well constructed three-storey feat of engineering was in constant use until 1975. The cave is about 10km north of Cat Ba Town on the road to Cat Ba National Park entrance.
Cat Co CoveBEACH
A 10-minute walk southeast from Cat Ba Town, the three Cat Co Cove beaches boast the nearest sand to town, although rubbish in the water can be problematic some days. Cat Co 3 is the closest, with a blink-and-you-miss-it sliver of sand. From there a walking trail, cut into the cliff and offering gorgeous sea views, winds its way to Cat Co 1 dominated by a rather ugly resort, then onwards to the pretty white-sand swath of Cat Co 2.
2Activities
Cat Ba is a superb base for adventure sports – on the island, and in, on and over the water.
Mountain Biking
Hotels can arrange Chinese mountain bikes (around US$6 per day). Blue Swimmer offers better-quality mountain bikes for US$15 per day. One possible route traverses the heart of the island, past Hospital Cave down to the west coast’s mangroves and crab farms, and then in a loop back to Cat Ba Town past tidal mud flats and deserted beaches.
Rock Climbing
Cat Ba Island and Lan Ha Bay’s spectacular limestone cliffs make for world-class rock climbing amid stunning scenery. Asia Outdoors uses fully licensed and certified instructors and is the absolute authority. Half-day climbing trips including instruction, transport, lunch and gear start at US$44 per person. Climbing and boat trips incorporate kayaking, beach stops and exploring the amazing karst landscape.
Sailing, Kayaking & SUP
Plenty of places in Cat Ba Town have kayaks for hire (half-day around US$8) that are ideal for exploring the coastline independently. SUP (stand-up paddle-boarding) trips are run by Asia Outdoors. Blue Swimmer offers sailing excursions to myriad islands around Cat Ba, often including kayaking and sleeping on a private beach.
Trekking
Most of Cat Ba Island consists of protected tropical forest. Cat Ba National Park has the most hiking opportunities.
TTours
Boat trips around Lan Ha Bay are offered by nearly every hotel on Cat Ba Island. Typical prices start at around US$80 for overnight tours, but it is usually worth spending a bit more as we receive unfavourable feedback – cramped conditions and dodgy food – about some of these trips.
oAsia OutdoorsCLIMBING
(%0225-368 8450; www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn; 229, Đ 1/4 Street, Cat Ba Town; half-/full-day climbing US$44/59; h8am-9pm)
Climbing is Asia Outdoors’ real expertise, with fully licensed and certified instructors leading trips; advanced climbers can hire gear here and talk shop. Also on offer are climbing and kayaking packages with an overnight on its boat (from US$90). It has also launched stand-up paddle-boarding (SUP) trips (US$36) and trekking excursions in the national park.
oCat Ba VenturesBOATING
(%0225-388 8755, 0912 467 016; www.catbaventures.com; 223 Ð 1-4, Cat Ba Town; overnight boat tour per person from US$128; h7.30am-8pm)
Locally owned and operated company offering boat trips around Lan Ha and Halong Bays, one-day kayaking trips (US$29) and guided hikes in Cat Ba National Park. Excellent service from Mr Tung is reinforced by multiple reader recommendations. These guys are a font of knowledge on everything Cat Ba and a great source of information on onward transport options.
Blue SwimmerADVENTURE
(%0915 063 737, 0225-368 8237; www.blueswimmersailing.com; Ben Beo Harbour; overnight sailing trip per person from US$190; h8am-8pm)
This environmentally conscious outfit was established by Vinh, one of the founders of respected tour operator Handspan Adventure Travel. Superb sailing and kayaking trips, and trekking and mountain-biking excursions (some with overnight homestay accommodation) are offered.
WORTH A TRIP
BAI TU LONG BAY
The area immediately northeast of Halong Bay is part of Bai Tu Long National Park (100,000d), which is blessed with spectacular limestone islands every bit as beautiful as its more famous neighbour Halong. Hanoi travel agencies including Ethnic Travel and Vega Travel run trips into the Bai Tu Long area. Or for more flexibility head overland to Cai Rong and visit the outlying islands by boat from there.
4Sleeping
Most hotels are in Cat Ba Town. Room rates fluctuate greatly between high-season summertime (May to August) and the slower winter months.
4Cat Ba Town
Cat Ba Central HostelHOSTEL$
(%0913 311 006; www.catbacentralhostel.com; 240 Ɖ 1-4; dm incl breakfast US$5-7; naW)
This friendly hostel is fast becoming the heart of Cat Ba’s backpacker action. Clean dorms (one with 28 beds, one with 14 beds and two with six beds, including a female-only room) come with lockers built into beds, and power points.
Hai Long HotelHOTEL$
(%0225-388 8635; www.hailongcatba.com; 234 Ð 1-4; r US$14-30; aW)
A new-ish-feeling place with 60 rooms, neither huge nor sexy, but entirely capable. Opt for the more expensive rooms, which have more leg room, natural light and bay-front balconies.
Thu HaHOTEL$
(%0225-388 8343; Ð 1-4; r US$12-15; aW)
This small family-run place has basically furnished, clean rooms, some boasting four beds. Negotiate hard for a front room and wake up to sea views. Communicating in English might be a problem.
Sea Pearl HotelHOTEL$$
(%0225-368 8567; www.seapearlcatbahotel.com.vn; 219 Ɖ 1-4; r incl breakfast 900,000-1,200,000d; aiW
s)
As indicated in the grand, tidy lobby, the Sea Pearl is a solid choice. Classically styled rooms are comfortable and a decent size, and staff are professional and helpful.
4Around Cat Ba Island
Lan HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0989 419 098; Viet Hai village; r & bungalows incl breakfast 400,000d; aW)
This pretty compound wasn’t quite finished when we stopped by, but if the existing rooms are anything to go by, it will be a clever budget choice. Expect 10 spacious, if somewhat dark, brick bungalows, all with en suite bathrooms, in a quiet corner of Viet Hai village.
Ancient House HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0916 645 858, 0915 063 737; www.catba-homestay.com; Ang Soi village; dm incl breakfast US$12, bungalow incl breakfast US$50; W)
Located around 3km from Cat Ba Town, down an unmarked alley in the village of Ang Soi, this heritage house was carefully moved here from the outskirts of Hanoi. As impressive and atmospheric as the house and grounds are, the accommodation is basic, with simple beds in a long room, or a couple of bungalows. Lunch and dinner set menus (US$12 per person) are available on request.
Cat Ba Mountain View GuesthouseBUNGALOW$$
(%0225-368 8641; 452 Ɖ Ha Sen, Ang Soi village; dm 222,000d, bungalow 700,000-1,000,000d; s)
One step removed from the hustle of town, this collection of gaily decorated bungalows (both private and dorm options) is backed by a cliff. The spacious, thatch-roofed restaurant area is a great social spot for hanging out and meeting fellow travellers. It’s on the main road, 3km from Cat Ba Town.
5Eating & Drinking
For a cheap feed, head to the food stalls in front of the market. You’ll find bia hoi stalls (Ɖ 1-4; h4-10pm) near the entrance to the fishing harbour.
Family BakeryBAKERY$
(196 Ð 1-4; pastries 10,000-15,000d, sandwiches 30,000-40,000d; h7am-4pm)
Friendly spot that opens early for almost-passable Western-style pastries. Pop in for a coffee, crème caramel or croissant before the bus-ferry-bus combo back to Hanoi.
Phuong NhungVIETNAMESE$
(184 Ð 1-4; meals from 45,000d; h7-10am)
Bustling breakfast spot that’s a popular place for a hearty bowl of pho bo (beef noodle soup) – just the thing you need before a day of climbing or kayaking.
Vien DuongVIETNAMESE$$
(12 Ð Nui Ngoc; meals from 120,000d; h11am-11pm)
Justifiably one of the most popular of the seafood spots lining Ð Nui Ngoc, and often heaving with Vietnamese tourists diving into local crab, squid and steaming seafood hotpots. Definitely not the place to come if you’re looking for a quiet night.
Quang AnhSEAFOOD$$
(%0255-388 8485; Ben Beo Pier; meals from 200,000d)
At this ‘floating’ fish-farm-meets-restaurant at Ben Beo Pier, select your seafood from the pen and it will be grilled, fried or steamed in no time. Prices go by weight and type of seafood; you can eat your fill of a selection of fish for around 200,000d per person.
Oasis BarBAR
(Ɖ 1-4; hnoon-11pm; W)
A free-use pool table, occasional karaoke, smiley staff and a location slap in the centre of the seafront strip make Oasis a popular spot to plonk yourself down for a beer or two.
8Information
For tourist information, the best impartial advice is at Asia Outdoors. Cat Ba Ventures is also very helpful. Both companies have websites with local information.
8Getting There & Away
Cat Ba Island is 45km east of Haiphong and 50km south of Halong City. Various boat and bus combinations make the journey from Hanoi, or there are ferries from Haiphong and Halong City.
FROM HANOI
Departing from Hanoi’s Nuoc Ngam bus station, Hoang Long (%0225-387 7224; http://hoanglongasia.com; Ɖ 1-4, Cat Ba Town; h7.30am-6pm) operates an efficient bus-boat-bus combo to Cat Ba Town. A bus takes you to Haiphong, followed by a minibus to nearby Dinh Vu port, then a 40-minute ferry to Cai Vieng Harbour (also known as Phu Long) on Cat Ba Island. From there, another minibus whisks passengers to Cat Ba Town (220,000d, four hours).
Buses depart Hanoi at 7.30am and 11.30am, and return from Cat Ba Town at 9.30am, 1.30pm and 3.30pm; there are additional departures during the high season, from May to August.
If you’re travelling independently from Hanoi, this is the most hassle-free way.
8Getting Around
Bicycle and motorbike hire is available from most Cat Ba hotels (both around US$5 per day). If you’re heading out to the beaches or national park, pay the parking fee for security.
GETTING TO CHINA: LANG SON TO NANNING
Getting to the border The Friendship Pass at the Dong Dang–Pingxiang border crossing is the most popular crossing in the far north. The border post itself is at Huu Nghi Quan (Friendship Pass), 3km north of Dong Dang town. From Lang Son, a train heads to Dong Dang daily at 11.15am (15,000d, 30 minutes), or you can count on about 160,000d for a taxi and 70,000d for a xe om directly to the border.
At the border The border is open from 7am to 8pm daily Vietnam time. Note that China is one hour ahead of Vietnam. To cross 500m to the Chinese side you’ll need to catch one of the electric cars (12,000d). You’ll also need a pre-arranged visa for China.
Moving on On the Chinese side, it’s a 20-minute drive to Pingxiang by bus or shared taxi. Pingxiang is connected by train and bus to Nanning (three hours).
Ba Be National Park
%0209
Boasting mountains high, rivers deep, and waterfalls, lakes and caves, Ba Be National Park (%0281-389 4721; 46,000d; h5am-9pm) is an incredibly scenic spot. The region is surrounded by steep peaks (up to 1554m) while the park contains tropical rainforest with more than 550 plant species. Wildlife in the forest includes bears, monkeys, bats and lots of butterflies. Surrounding the park are Tay minority villages.
Ba Be (Three Bays) is in fact three linked lakes, with a total length of 8km and a width of about 400m. The Nang River is navigable for 23km between a point 4km above Cho Ra and the Dau Dang Waterfall (Thac Dau Dang), which is a series of spectacular cascades between sheer walls of rock. River cave Puong Cave (Hang Puong) is about 30m high and 300m long.
Park staff can organise tours, starting at about US$30 per day for solo travellers, less for a group. Boat trips (650,000d per boat) take around seven hours to take in most sights. Mr Sinh (%0653 224 214) is a keen, English-speaking boat conductor. There’s also opportunities for kayaking, cycling and trekking. Tay-owned Ba Be Tourism Centre (%0209-389 4721; www.babenationalpark.com.vn; Bo Lu village) arranges homestays, boat trips, trekking, cycling and kayaking (or a combo of all four) for around US$45 per day.
Homestays in Pac Ngoi village are very popular with travellers; there’s also accommodation near the national park entrance. Recommended in Pac Ngoi is Hoa Son Guesthouse (%0947 150 154; Pac Ngoi village; per person 70,000d) where excellent home-cooked meals (50,000d to 120,000d) can include fresh fish from the lake. Mr Linh’s Homestay (%0989 587 400, 0209-389 4894; www.mrlinhhomestay.com; Coc Toc village; dm incl breakfast US$8, r with shared bathroom incl breakfast US$22-42; aW) in Coc Toc village is a step up from most and has kayaks for hire.
8Getting There & Away
Ba Be National Park is 240km from Hanoi and 18km from Cho Ra. Most travellers come on pre-arranged tours from Hanoi. For independent travel from Hanoi, the most direct route to Ba Be’s lakeside homestay villages is the local bus to Cho Don, via Thai Nguyen, run by Thuong Nga bus company. It leaves My Dinh bus station gate 33 at 10am (130,000d, four hours). At Cho Don, you hop on a connecting minibus (run by the same company) to Pac Ngoi, Bo Lu and Coc Toc (40,000d)
Mai Chau
%0218 / Pop 12,000
In an idyllic valley, Mai Chau is surrounded by lush paddy fields and the rural soundtrack is defined by gurgling irrigation streams and birdsong.
Dozens of local families have signed up to a highly successful homestay initiative, and for visitors the chance to sleep in a traditional stilt house is a real appeal – though note that the villages are on the tour-group agenda.
Mai Chau is also an extremely popular weekend getaway for locals from Hanoi; try to come midweek if possible.
1Sights & Activities
You can walk or cycle past rice fields and trek to minority villages; a local guide costs about US$10. Many travel agencies in Hanoi run inexpensive trips to Mai Chau.
Ask around in Mai Chau about longer treks of three to seven days. Other options include rock climbing, kayaking and mountain-biking excursions; enquire at Asia Outdoors (%0218-386 8859; www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn; Mai Chau Lodge; h8am-8pm).
4Sleeping & Eating
Most visitors stay in Thai stilt houses (Mai Chau; per person 100,000-250,000d) in the villages of Lac or Pom Coong. All homestays have electricity, running water, hot showers, mosquito nets and roll-up mattresses. Mai Chau Sunrise Village (%0914 788 884; www.maichausunrisevillage.com; Lac village; bungalow US$35-65; W) in Lac village offers private bungalows with bamboo furniture and free bikes. Grab a bungalow at the back to wake up to verdant rice-field views.
Most people eat where they stay; note that some families charge up to 200,000d for dinner.
8Getting There & Away
Direct buses to Mai Chau (90,000d, 3¾ hours) leave Hanoi’s My Dinh Bus Station at 6am, 8.30am and 11am. If you want to stay in Lac or Pom Coong villages, just ask the bus driver to drop you off there. You’ll be dropped off at the crossroads, just a short stroll from both villages.
To Hanoi, buses leave from Mai Chau’s bus station (Hwy 15), 2km south of town, at 7.15am, 8am, 8.45am, 12.30pm and 1pm. Homestay owners can book these buses for you and arrange for you to be picked up from the village.
Lao Cai
%0214 / Pop 98,360
One of the gateways to the north, Lao Cai lies at the end of the train line, 3km from the Chinese border. The town has no sights but is a major hub for travellers journeying between Hanoi, Sapa and the Chinese city of Kunming. There are hotels and ATMs next to the train station.
GETTING TO CHINA: LAO CAI TO KUNMING
Getting to the border The Lao Cai–Hekou crossing connects northern Vietnam with Yunnan Province in China. The border is about 3km from the Lao Cai train station; xe om charge 25,000d.
At the border The border crossing is open from 7am to 10pm. Visas must be arranged in advance. Note that China is one hour ahead of Vietnam.
Moving on The new Hekou bus station is around 6km from the border post. There are regular departures to Kunming, including sleeper buses which leave at 7.20pm and 7.30pm, getting into Kunming at around 7am. There are also four daily trains.
8Getting There & Away
Lao Cai’s inter-provincial bus station (off Hwy 4E; h24hr) is a whopping 10km southeast of town; a taxi there will cost about 150,000d.
Yellow-and-red minibuses and larger buses for Sapa (30,000d, 30 minutes) leave at least hourly between 5.10am and 6pm from the car park in front of Lao Cai train station. Touts will try to push you to their private minibuses for an inflated 100,000d. Minibuses to Bac Ha (60,000d, 2½ hours) leave from the provincial bus station (Pha Dinh Phung), located just west of the train station; there are frequent departures from 4.45am to 5.30pm.
BUSES FROM LAO CAI
| DESTINATION | COST (D) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dien Bien Phu | 200,000-250,000 | 8 | 6.45am, 5pm, 5.30pm & 10pm |
| Ha Giang | 130,000 | 5-6 | 6am & 11.30am |
| Halong City (Bai Chay) | 360,000 | 12 | 7.15pm, 6pm & 8.15pm |
| Hanoi | 230,000 | 10 | frequent 5am-12.30am |
Bac Ha
%0214 / Pop 7400
An unhurried and friendly town, Bac Ha makes a relaxed base to explore the northern highlands and hill-tribe villages. The climate here is also noticeably warmer than in Sapa.
Bac Ha has a certain charm, though its stock of traditional old adobe houses is dwindling and being replaced by concrete structures. Wood smoke fills the morning air and chickens and pigs poke around the back lanes. For six days a week Bac Ha slumbers, but its lanes fill up to choking point each Sunday when tourists and Flower Hmong flood in for the weekly market.
1Sights & Activities
Bac Ha’s Sunday market (off Ɖ Tran Bac; hsunrise-2pm Sun) is a riot of colour and commerce, with an entire area devoted to ruoc (corn hooch).
While you’re here, check out the outlandish Vua Meo (‘Cat King’ House; ĐT 153; 20,000d; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm), a palace that has been built in a kind of bizarre ‘oriental baroque’ architectural style.
Beyond town lie several interesting markets; tour operators in Bac Ha can arrange day trips to surrounding markets in villages including Co Ly (Tuesday), Sin Cheng (Wednesday), and Lung Phin (Sunday).
Contact Green Sapa Tour (%0912 005 952; www.bachatourist.com; Ɖ Tran Bac; h6am-10pm), operated by English-speaking Mr Nghe, for tours.
4Sleeping & Eating
Room rates increase on weekends.
Ngan Nga Bac Ha HotelHOTEL$
(%0214-880 286; www.nganngabachahotel.com; 117 P Ngoc Uyen; r incl breakfast US$18-27; aW)
Rooms here are a solid budget deal; they are a decent size and are decked out with a few homey touches that give them some character. Bag a front room for a balcony.
Saturday HotelHOTEL$
(%0868 138 290; 126 P Ngoc Uyen; dm 100,000d, r 400,000-500,000; aW)
Right in the middle of all the action in Bac Ha is this tidy, pleasant place. Rooms are clean and inviting, if plain, while the dorms, little more than mattresses separated by curtains, feel somewhat clinical.
Thanh CongVIETNAMESE$$
(P Ngoc Uyen; meals from 150,000d; h7am-8pm)
A favourite dish in northern Vietnam is grilled duck. Come to this simple restaurant (look for the rotisserie out the front) for a half (100,000d) or a full (200,000d) bird and a beer, and feel like a local. A broad menu of other dishes is also available.
8Information
Located at Vua Meo, the English-speaking staff at the local tourist information center (ĐT 153; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm) can offer advice on trekking, tours and buses, although one gets the impression that there’s a tendency to steer visitors towards businesses run by friends and family.
8Getting There & Away
Tours to Bac Ha from Sapa cost from around US$20 per person; on the way back you can bail out in Lao Cai and catch the night train to Hanoi.
If you’re heading east to Ha Giang, there are two options – we recommend checking the latest information with either Mr Dong at Ngan Nga Bac Ha Hotel or Mr Nighe at Green Sapa Tour as Ha Giang schedules change regularly.
A xe om/taxi to Lao Cai costs US$25/70, or to Sapa US$30/80.
BUSES FROM BAC HA
| DESTINATION | COST (D) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Haiphong | 300,000 | 9 | 8am & 4.30pm |
| Hanoi | 300,000 | 8 | 12.30pm & 8.30pm |
| Lao Cai | 60,000 | 2 | frequent 7am-2pm |
Sapa
%0214 / Pop 52,899 / Elev 1650m
Established as a hill station by the French in 1922, Sapa today is the tourism centre of the northwest.
Sapa is oriented to make the most of the spectacular views emerging on clear days; it overlooks a plunging valley, with mountains towering above on all sides. Views are often subdued by thick mist rolling across the peaks, but even when it’s cloudy, local hill-tribe people fill the town with colour.
If you were expecting a quaint alpine town, recalibrate your expectations. Modern tourism development has mushroomed haphazardly. Thanks to rarely enforced building-height restrictions, Sapa’s skyline is continually thrusting upwards.
But you’re not here to hang out in town. This is northern Vietnam’s premier trekking base, from where hikers launch themselves into a surrounding countryside of cascading rice terraces and tiny hill-tribe villages that seem a world apart. Once you’ve stepped out into the lush fields, you’ll understand the Sapa area’s real charm.
1Sights & Activities
Surrounding Sapa are the Hoang Lien Mountains, including Fansipan, which at 3143m is Vietnam’s highest peak. The trek from Sapa to the summit and back can take several days, although a new cable car to the summit and mountain-top shopping have changed the experience forever.
Some of the better-known sights around Sapa include the epic Tram Ton Pass; the pretty Thac Bac (Silver Falls); and Cau May (Cloud Bridge), which spans the Muong Hoa River. Treks can be arranged at many guesthouses and tour operators. Sapa O’Chau (MAP; %0214-377 1166; www.sapaochau.org; 8 Ɖ Thac Bac; h6.30am-6.30pm) 
S is one excellent outfit which benefits Hmong children, and Hmong-owned Sapa Sisters (MAP; %0214-773 388; www.sapasisters.com; Sapa Graceful Hotel, 9 Ɖ Phan Si; h7am-5pm) is another good operator.
As well as hiking tours, also on offer are culturally focused trips including visits to the Hmong village of Sin Chai, staying overnight in the village to learn about textiles or music. Other popular communities to visit include the Giay village of Ta Van and the Hmong village of Matra.
oSapa MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP; 103 P Cau May; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm)F
Excellent showcase of the history and ethnology of the Sapa area, including the colonial times of the French. Dusty exhibitions demonstrate the differences between the various ethnic minority people of the area, so it’s definitely worth a quick visit when you first arrive in town, even if some descriptions are too faded to read. Located above a handicrafts shop behind the Tourist Information Center.
Sapa MarketMARKET
(Ɖ Ngu Chi Son; h6am-2pm)
Unfortunately turfed out of central Sapa, and now in a purpose-built modern building near the bus station, Sapa Market is still a hive of colourful activity outside, with fresh produce, a butcher’s section not for the squeamish and hill-tribe people from surrounding villages heading here most days to sell handicrafts. Saturday is the busiest day.
4Sleeping
Go Sapa HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP; %0214-871 198; www.gosapahostel.com; 25 Ɖ Thac Bac; dm 110,000-130,000d, r 400,000d; iW)
Up the hill from central Sapa, this set-up has a multitude of eight-bed dorms (with lockers) set around a communal courtyard. More expensive dorm options come with private bathroom and some have tiny balconies. There are free computers and bike hire.
Luong Thuy Family GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %0214-872 310; www.familysapa.com; 28 Ð Muong Hoa; dm US$5, r US$15-20; aiW)
This friendly guesthouse has a decent, though dark, dorm and snug private rooms. Motorcycles and bikes can be hired, trekking and transport arranged, and there are valley views from front balconies.
Sapa AubergeHOTEL$
(MAP; %0214-387 1243; www.sapaauberge.com; 31 P Cau May; r incl breakfast US$21; W)
A bright yellow villa boasting 21 comfy, homey rooms. Unlike most places in Sapa, there’s not much in the way of views, but it’s just off the main strip, so you’re compensated with peace and quiet.
oSapa Dragon HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP; %0214-871 363; www.sapadragonhotel.com; 1a Ɖ Thac Bac; r incl breakfast US$55-105; aW)
This new kid in town offers 20 handsome, spacious rooms with thoughtful touches such as laptops and locally influenced design, as well as friendly, but not overbearing, service. One of the wiser options if you want to stay in Sapa proper.
5Eating & Drinking
For eating on a budget, humble Vietnamese restaurants huddle on Ð Tue Tinh, and the stalls south of the church can’t be beaten for bun cha (barbecued pork).
Co LichVIETNAMESE$
(MAP; Ɖ Phan Si; meals from 70,000d; hnoon-11pm)
This rowdy place brings all the local faves – grilled skewers, roast piglet, dried beef, hotpot – together in one venue. Pull up a pew at one of the simple tables and tuck in.
Sapa O’ChauCAFE$
(MAP; www.sapaochau.org; 8 Ɖ Thac Bac; snacks from 40,000d; h6.30am-6.30pm; W)
Don’t miss warming up with a cup of ginger tea sweetened with Sapa mountain honey at this simple cafe attached to the Sapa O’Chau tour company. Also does good breakfasts and a few simple snacks and light meals.
oHill Station Signature RestaurantVIETNAMESE$$
(MAP; www.thehillstation.com; 37 Ɖ Phan Si; meals from 150,000d; h7am-11pm; aWv)
A showcase of Hmong cuisine with cool Zen decor and superb views. Dishes include flash-cooked pork with lime, ash-baked trout in banana leaves, and traditional Hmong-style black pudding. Tasting sets of local rice and corn wine are also of interest to curious travelling foodies. Don’t miss trying the delicate rainbow-trout rice-paper rolls; think of them as ‘Sapa sushi’.
Cafe in the CloudsBEER GARDEN
(MAP; %0214-377 1011; 60 Ɖ Phan Si; h6am-11pm; W)
The large terrace of this bar is a great corner of Sapa (and the planet) to pause and ponder the valley or, often, the wandering mist at eye level. The crisp air must come with lofty prices? Actually drinks are priced very reasonably, plus wi-fi is zippy for logging in to electronic clouds. The food isn’t bad either.
Cong Ca PheCAFE
(MAP; Ð Xuan Vien; h7am-11pm; W)
8Information
Wi-fi is commonplace in hotels and many restaurants and cafes. There are several ATMs in town including Agribank (P Cau May; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr). Sapa tourist information center (%0214-387 3239; www.sapa-tourism.com; 103 Ð Xuan Vien; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5.30pm) has helpful English-speaking staff offering details of transport, trekking and weather.
8Getting There & Away
The gateway to Sapa is Lao Cai, 38km away via a well-maintained highway.
BUS
Sapa’s bus station (Ɖ Luong Dinh Cua) is northeast of the town centre, near the market. To Hanoi there are frequent departures between 7am and 10.30pm (200,000d to 250,000d, 10 hours); to Mong Cai, there’s a daily bus at 4pm (450,000d).
There is no direct service to Bac Ha, Dien Bien Phu or Lai Chau. You need to take a minibus to Lao Cai and change there.
Minibuses (Ð Ham Rong) and buses to Lao Cai (30,000d, 30 minutes) leave every 30 minutes between 6am and 6pm, from a bus stop near Sapa Church. Look for yellow-and-red buses with price lists in the window.
TRAIN
There’s no direct train line to Sapa, but there are regular services between Hanoi and Lao Cai. Most hotels and travel agencies can book train tickets back to Hanoi.
You can book tickets at the Railway Booking Office (%0214-387 1480; P Cau May; h7.30-11am & 1.30-4pm) on P Cau May, which charges a small commission.
GETTING TO LAOS: DIEN BIEN PHU TO MUANG KHUA
Getting to the border A bus from Dien Bien Phu to Muang Khua (115,000d) leaves daily at 5.30am. It’s advisable to book your ticket the day prior to travelling. This bus takes you through the Tay Trang–Sop Hun border crossing and drops you off in Muang Khua in Laos. The journey typically takes between seven and eight hours, but can be longer depending on the roads and border formalities. Other destinations in Laos from DBP include Bo Keo (560,000d, 7am), Luang Prabang (402,000d to 495,000d, 6am and 7.30am), Luang Nam Tha (350,000d, 6.30am and 8.30am), Phongsali (345,000, 7.15am) and Udomxai (230,000d, 6am).
At the border The Tay Trang–Sop Hun border, 34km from Dien Bien Phu, is open daily between 7am and 4.30pm. Crossing into Laos, most travellers can get a 30-day visa on arrival (US$30 to US$42). Have two passport photos and additional cash (around US$5) on hand for occasional local administrative fees.
Moving on From Muang Khua there are buses to Udomxai.
Dien Bien Phu
%0215 / Pop 46,362
On 7 May 1954 French colonial forces were defeated by the Viet Minh in a decisive battle at Dien Bien Phu (DBP), and the days of their Indochine empire were numbered. Previously just a minor settlement, DBP has recently boomed. Boulevards and civic buildings have been constructed and the airport has daily flights from Hanoi.
1Sights
oDien Bien Phu MuseumMUSEUM
(279 Ð 7-5; 15,000d; h7-11am & 1.30-5.30pm)
This well-laid-out museum, contained in a space-agey modern structure, features an eclectic collection that commemorates the 1954 battle. Alongside weaponry and guns, there’s a bath-tub that belonged to the French commander Colonel de Castries, a bicycle capable of carrying 330kg of ordnance, and photographs and documents, some with English translations.
Bunker of Colonel de CastriesMONUMENT
(off P Nguyen Huu Tho; 15,000d; h7-11am & 1.30-6pm)
West of the Ron River, the command bunker of Colonel Christian de Castries has been recreated. A few discarded tanks linger nearby, and you might see Vietnamese tourists mounting the bunker and waving the Vietnamese flag, re-enacting an iconic photograph taken at the battle’s conclusion.
oA1 HillMONUMENT
(Ð 7-5; 15,000d; h7-11am & 1.30-5pm)
This vantage point was crucial in the battle of Dien Bien Phu. There are tanks and a monument to Viet Minh casualties on this former French position, known to the French as Eliane and to the Vietnamese as A1 Hill. The elaborate trenches at the heart of the French defences have also been re-created. Little background information is given on-site.
4Sleeping & Eating
Nam Ron HotelHOTEL$
(%0946 251 967; Ð Trang Dang Ninh; r 400,000-450,000d; aW)
At the edge of the Ron River is this characterless but tidy place. By Vietnamese standards, the rooms feel tight, but are functional and comfortable, and come decked out with retro furniture.
oRuby HotelHOTEL$$
(%0913 655 793; www.rubyhoteldienbien.com; off Ɖ Nguyen Chi Thanh; r incl breakfast 560,000-900,000d; aW)
The best deal in Dien Bien Phu is this friendly hotel, down a signposted alleyway. The 31 rooms are comfortably fitted out with good beds, flat-screen TVs and bathrooms featuring rain shower heads. If you’re travelling solo, treat yourself to a double room as the singles are quite small.
Pho StallsVIETNAMESE$
(P Thanh Binh; meals from 40,000d; h8am-10pm)
There’s good-value eating at these inexpensive pho stalls and simple restaurants opposite the bus station; some serve delicious fresh sugar-cane juice.
Bia Hoi RestaurantsVIETNAMESE$
(Ɖ Hoang Van Thai; meals from 30,000d; hnoon-10pm)
You’re probably only in town for a night, so meet the locals at the bia hoi gardens along Ɖ Hoang Van Thai. There’s decent and cheap grilled food as well, if you’re tired of rice and noodles.
8Information
DBP has many ATMs including Agribank (Ð 7-5; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr).
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Dien Bien Phu Airport is 1.5 km north of the town centre along the road to Muong Lay. Vasco Airlines (%0215-382 4948; www.vasco.com.vn; Dien Bien Phu Airport; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm) operates two flights daily to/from Hanoi (from 1,113,000d, one hour).
BUS
DBP’s bus station is at the corner of Ð Tran Dang Ninh and Hwy 12.
BUSES FROM DIEN BIEN PHU
| DESTINATION | COST (D) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hanoi | 255,000-570,000 | 11½ | frequent 4.30am-9.15pm |
| Muang Khua (Laos) | 115,000 | 7-8 | 5.30am |
| Muong Lay | 60,000 | 3-4 | 2.30pm, 3pm & 4pm |
| Muong Te | 130,000 | 6 | 6 departures 5-8.15am |
| Son La | 97,000-100,000 | 4 | 9 departures 4.30am-2pm |
Ha Giang Province
POP 750,000
Ha Giang is the final frontier in northern Vietnam, an amazing landscape of limestone pinnacles and granite outcrops. The far north of the province has some of the most spectacular scenery in the country – if not the region – and the trip between Yen Minh and Dong Van, and then across the Mai Pi Leng Pass to Meo Vac, is quite mind-blowing. Ha Giang should be one of the most popular destinations in this region, but its distance from just about everywhere else keeps visitor numbers at a low level.
Travel permits (US$10) are required to travel on the road north from Tam Son to Dong Van and Meo Vac, but these are simply paid directly with whichever hotel you choose to overnight in along the way.
1Sights
Dong Van is the Ha Giang region’s most popular overnight stop and, not coincidentally, is home to some solid accommodation and food. But the real reason to come is for the Sunday market (Ɖ Vao Cho; h6am-2pm Sun), one of the region’s biggest and most colourful. The town is also a good base for day treks around nearby minority villages and nearby sights such as the Lung Cu (25,000d; h8am-5pm) flag tower.
Meo Vac is a small but charming district capital hemmed in by steep karst mountains and, like many towns in the northwest, it is steadily being settled by Vietnamese from elsewhere. The journey here along the spectacular Mai Pi Leng Pass, which winds for 22km from Dong Van, is the main attraction. The road has been cut into the side of a cliff with a view of rippling hills tumbling down to the distant waters of the Nho Que River far below. At the top of the pass is a lookout point where you can stop to take in the scenery.
4Sleeping
oLam Tung HotelHOTEL$
(%0219-385 6789; Ɖ Vao Cho; r 350,000-450,000d; aW)
Just off Dong Van’s main road, and overlooking the plaza that hosts the Sunday market, the Lam Tung has surprisingly smart modern rooms with soft mattresses, and friendly English-speaking staff. It has motorbikes for hire for 150,000d to 200,000d per day.
oAuberge de Meo VacGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0219-387 1686; aubergemeovac@gmail.com; dm/r with shared bathroom 330,000/1,320,000d; W)
This is a unique stay in a lovingly restored ethnic-minority house dating from the 19th century, with to clay walls, lots of natural timber and a spacious inner courtyard. Breakfast (US$5) and dinner (US$12) are available. It’s located northeast of the town centre, just east of Hwy 4C.
8Getting There & Around
The province is best managed with a car and driver or by motorbike. If you’re going to splurge on private transport once during your trip, this is the time to do it.
Public transport is improving and it’s relatively simple to journey by bus from Ha Giang city to Dong Van, but at the time of writing there was still no public transport from Dong Van onward to Meo Vac. However, there are buses, along the low road, between Meo Vac and Ha Giang city, so by hiring a xe om or taxi in Dong Van for the stretch to Meo Vac, it is entirely possible to do a loop back to Ha Giang city. Heading east from Meo Vac to Cao Bang continues to be a headache, as there is no public transport from Meo Vac to Bao Lac.