Around Ho Chi Minh City

Cu Chi

%028 / Pop 19,573

If the tenacious spirit of the Vietnamese could be symbolised by a single place, then Cu Chi might be it. Its fame is such that it’s become a place of pilgrimage for many Vietnamese, and a must-see for travellers.

Cu Chi TunnelsHISTORIC SITE

(adult/child 110,000/30,000d)

Two sections of this remarkable tunnel network (which are enlarged and upgraded versions of the real thing) are open to the public. One is near the village of Ben Dinh and the other is 15km beyond at Ben Duoc, where admission is slightly cheaper. Most tourists visiting the tunnels end up at Ben Dinh, as it’s easier for tour buses to reach. Even if you stay above ground, it’s still an interesting experience learning about the region’s ingenious and brave resistance activities.

Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue StationWILDLIFE RESERVE

(www.wildlifeatrisk.org; adult/child US$5/free; h7.30-11.30am & 1-4.30pm)

Just a few kilometres from the Ben Dinh tunnels, this centre is dedicated to the protection of wildlife that has been confiscated from owners or illegal traders. Animals include bears, otters and gibbons. There is an informative display on the rather depressing state of wildlife in Vietnam, including the ‘room of death’ featuring traps and baits. It’s tough to navigate these back roads solo, so talk to a travel agent about incorporating it into a Cu Chi Tunnels trip. Phoning ahead before a visit is recommended to ensure centre staff are on hand.

8Getting There & Away

By far the easiest way to get to the tunnels is by guided tour from HCMC City. As the competition is stiff, prices are reasonable (around US$15 per person), and vary depending on group size and choice of tunnels. Most tours also visit the Cao Dai Temple in Tay Ninh.

Tay Ninh

%0276 / Pop 153,500

Tay Ninh town serves as the headquarters of Cao Dai, one of Vietnam’s most interesting indigenous religions. The Cao Dai Great Temple was built between 1933 and 1955. Victor Hugo is among the Westerners especially revered by the Cao Dai; look for his likeness at the Great Temple. Tay Ninh is 96km northwest of HCMC. The Cao Dai Holy See complex is 4km east of Tay Ninh. One-day tours from HCMC, including Tay Ninh and the Cu Chi Tunnels, cost from around US$7.

Mekong Delta

The ‘rice bowl’ of Vietnam, the Mekong Delta is a landscape carpeted in a dizzying variety of greens. It’s also a water world where boats, houses, restaurants and even markets float upon the innumerable rivers, canals and streams that flow through like arteries.

Visitors can experience southern charm in riverside homestays, while Phu Quoc is a tropical island lined with white-sand beaches.

Delta tours are very convenient (book through travel agencies in Ho Chi Minh City) but independent travel is perfectly feasible, if sometimes time-consuming.

Vinh Long

%0270 / Pop 147,000

Vinh Long is a noisy, chaotic transit hub, but the riverfront has plenty of cafes and restaurants. Close by are several worthwhile sites including the Cai Be floating market, beautiful islands, abundant orchards and atmospheric homestays.

Cuu Long Tourist (%0270-382 3616; www.cuulongtourist.com; 2 Ɖ Phan B Chau; h7am-5pm) offers boat tours ranging from three hours (from US$15 per person) to three days. Bustling Cai Be Floating Market (h5am-noon) is worth including on a boat tour from Vinh Long.

Arrive early in the morning to see huge boats packed with tropical fruit and vegetables. We suggest you don’t stay in town; instead opt for a homestay. Frequent buses go to HCMC (105,000d, three hours) and Can Tho (50,000d) from a bus station 2.5km south of town.

Can Tho

%0292 / Pop 1.2 million

Can Tho is the political, economic, cultural and transportation epicentre of the Mekong Delta. It’s a buzzing city with a waterfront lined with sculpted gardens and an appealing blend of narrow backstreets and wide boulevards.

English-speaking Hieu (%0939 666 156; www.hieutour.com; 27a Ɖ Le Thanh Ton) offers excellent trips to floating markets (from US$25), cycling excursions and food tours.

Cai Rang (h5am-noon) F is the biggest floating market in the Mekong Delta, 6km from Can Tho; it’s a morning affair. You can hire boats (about 120,000d per hour) on the river near the Can Tho market. Cai Rang is one hour away by boat, or you can drive to Cau Dau Sau boat landing, where you can get a rowing boat (per hour around 100,000d) to the market, 10 minutes away.

Less crowded and less motorised is the Phong Dien Market (h5am-noon) F, 20km from Can Tho by road, which has more stand-up rowboats. It’s best between 6am and 8am. You can hire a boat on arrival.

4Sleeping & Eating

oXoai HotelHOTEL$

(%0907 652 927; http://hotelxoai.com; 93 Ɖ Mau Than; s/d from US$10.50/14.50; aiW)

Fantastic value at this friendly, efficient hotel with bright, mango-coloured (the hotel name means ‘Mango Hotel’), airy rooms. Helpful staff speak excellent English and there’s a roof terrace with hammocks.

oNguyen Shack Can ThoGUESTHOUSE$$

(%0966 550 016; www.nguyenshack.com; Ong Tim Bridge, Thanh My, Thuong Thanh; dm/d with shared bathroom US$9/25, bungalows US$45-65; W) S

Not a shack, but rather a clutch of rustic thatched bungalows with fans, this great place overlooks the Ong Tim River, 6km from Can Tho. It’s the kind of place where backpackers are inspired to linger longer, thanks to the camaraderie between English-speaking staff and guests. The engaging boat and bicycle tours and the proximity to Cai Rang floating market are bonuses.

oNem Nuong Thanh VanVIETNAMESE$

(%0292-0382 7255; cnr Nam Ky Khoi Nghia & 30 Thang 4; meals 45,000d; h8am-9pm)

The only dish this locally acclaimed spot does is the best nem nuong in town. Roll your own rice rolls using the ingredients provided: pork sausage, rice paper, green banana, star fruit (carambola), cucumber and a riot of fresh herbs, then dip into the peanut-and-something-else sauce, its secret jealously guarded. Simple and fantastic!

A NIGHT ON THE MEKONG

For many travellers, the chance to experience river life and to share a home-cooked meal with a local family is a highlight of a Mekong visit. Vinh Long offers many homestay options.

Ngoc Sang (%0270-385 8694; 95/8 Binh Luong, Dao Trinh Nhat, An Binh; per person 250,000d; W) Most travellers love this friendly, canal-facing rustic homestay. The grandmother cooks up some wonderful local dishes, free bikes are available, the owner runs decent early-morning boat tours and there’s a languid atmosphere about the place. The family seems shy when it comes to hanging out with the guests, though. Free pick-up from the ferry pier 15 minutes’ walk away.

Ba Linh Homestay (%0270-385 8683, 0939 138 142; balinhhomestay@gmail.com; 95 An Thanh, An Binh; r 500,000d) Run by friendly Mr Truong, this traditional-looking and popular place has six simple, high-roofed, partitioned rooms in a line, all with fan. Breakfast and dinner is included in the price and you may get to try such local specialities as rice-field rat.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Can Tho International Airport (www.canthoairport.com; Ð Le Hong Phong) is served by Vietnam Airlines (%0292-384 4320; 64 Ð Nguyen An Ninh), Vietjet Air (www.vietjetair.com) and Vasco (%038 422 790), with flights to Dalat (one hour, twice weekly), Danang (1½ hours, daily), Hanoi (2¼ hours, three daily) and Phu Quoc (one hour, daily). There are no direct flights to HCMC; the nearest connecting flight is through Phu Quoc.

The airport is 10km northwest of the city centre. A taxi into town will cost around 220,000d.

BUS

All buses depart from a new bus station (Ben Xe 91B; Ɖ Nguyen Van Linh) in the southwest of town. Destinations include HCMC Mien Tay terminal (110,000d, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes) and Chau Doc (from 95,000d, 3¼ hours, hourly).

Chau Doc

%0296 / Pop 157,000

Perched on the banks of the Bassac River, Chau Doc is a charming town near the Cambodian border, with sizeable Chinese, Khmer and Cham communities. Its cultural diversity – apparent in the mosques, temples, churches and nearby pilgrimage sites – makes it a fascinating place to explore.

The popular nearby river crossing between Vietnam and Cambodia means many travellers pass through. Nearby Sam Mountain is a local beauty spot with terrific views over Cambodia, while the Tra Su Bird Sanctuary (Rung Tram Tra Su; admission 120,000d, boat rides per person 75,000d; h7am-4pm) 23km west of town is worth a visit for avian buffs.

War remnants near Chau Doc include Ba Chuc, the site of a Khmer Rouge massacre with a bone pagoda, and Tuc Dup Hill, where an expensive American bombing campaign in 1963 earned it the nickname Two Million Dollar Hill.

It’s also possible to visit fish farms set up underneath floating houses on the river. Mekong Tours (%098 308 6355; 41 Ɖ Quang Trung) is a reliable travel agent offering boat or bus transport to Phnom Penh, car hire and boat trips on the Mekong. Good budget places to stay include Trung Nguyen Hotel (%0296-356 1561; 86 Ð Bach Dang; s/d US$12/15; paW)and Murray Guesthouse (%0296-356 2108; www.themurrayguesthouse.com; 11 Truong Dinh; s/d from US$26/32; naW) while Bay Bong (20 Ð Suong Nguyet Anh; meals 50,000-150,000d; h9am-8pm) has excellent hotpots and soups. For vegetarian options, head to Tam Tinh. (Com Chay Tam Tinh; %0296-386 5064; Quang Trung near Chi Lang; meals 25,000d; v)

There are very regular buses to both Can Tho (100,000d, four hours) and HCMC (140,000, 6½ hours) from the main bus station.

WORTH A TRIP

CON DAO ISLANDS

Isolated from the mainland, the Con Dao Islands are one of Vietnam’s star attractions. Long the preserve of political prisoners and undesirables, they now turn heads thanks to their striking natural beauty. Con Son, the largest of this chain of 15 islands and islets, is ringed with lovely beaches, coral reefs and scenic bays, and remains partially covered in tropical forests. In addition to hiking, diving and exploring deserted coastal roads there are excellent wildlife-watching opportunities.

Standout beaches include Bai Dat Doc and Bau Dram Trau, and to the east of Con Son Island, Bay Canh island has lovely beaches, old-growth forest, mangroves, coral reefs and sea turtles (seasonal). There is a fantastic two-hour walk to a functioning French-era lighthouse on Bay Canh’s eastern tip; a steep climb of 325m. At the summit, the panoramic views are breathtaking.

Until 2017, getting to Con Dao involved buying a pricey air ticket or a long journey at sea on an ancient ferry, but a new fast boat link means the islands are now far more accessible.

Superdong (%029 9384 3888; http://superdong.com.vn; Ben Dam port) schedules a daily 8am ferry (310,000d, 2½ hours) from Tran De, Soc Trang province in the Mekong Delta; it returns from Ben Dam at 1pm. This service began in July 2017 and its reliability is untested.

Note that sea connections to Con Dao are not reliable; sailings on all routes are frequently cancelled in heavy seas.

Ha Tien

%0297 / Pop 30,100

Ha Tien’s location on the Gulf of Thailand makes it feels a world away from the rice fields and rivers that typify the region. Dramatic limestone formations define the area, pepper tree plantations dot the hillsides and the town itself has a sleepy tropical charm. It’s a transport hub for road links to the Cambodia border at Xa Xia/Prek Chak and boats to Phu Quoc.

For hotels, the Bao Anh (Nga Nhi Bao Anh; %0166 223 8440; cnr Ð Hong Van Tu & waterfront; r Mon-Fri/Sat & Sun from 350,000/400,000d; aW) is good value, while Hai Van Hotel (%0297-385 2872; www.khachsanhaivan.com; 55 Ɖ Lam Son; s/d from 250,000/300,000d; aW) offers smart, if featureless rooms with polished floors. Some English is spoken.

For cheap grub the night market (Ɖ Lam Son; meals from 20,000d; h5-9pm) can’t be beat, while Oasis (%0297-370 1553; www.oasisbarhatien.com; 30 Ɖ Tran Hau; meals 60,000-150,000d; h9am-9pm; W) is a popular expat-run bar-restaurant; the owner provides good travel advice.

8Getting There & Away

Buses connect HCMC (200,000d, eight hours) and Ha Tien; they also run to destinations including Chau Doc (160,000d to 200,000d), Rach Gia (70,000d) and Can Tho (200,000d).

The bus station is located 1.5km south of the bridge next to a hospital.

GETTING TO CAMBODIA: SOUTHERN BORDERS

Chau Doc to Phnom Penh

Getting to the border The Vinh Xuong–Kaam Samnor border crossing is located northwest of Chau Doc along the Mekong River. Several companies in Chau Doc sell boat journeys to Phnom Penh via the Vinh Xuong border. Hang Chau (%Chau Doc 0296-356 2771, Phnom Penh 855-12-883 542; www.hangchautourist.com.vn; per person US$25) boats depart Chau Doc at 7.30am from a pier at 18 Ð Tran Hung Dao, arriving at 12.30pm.

At the border Cambodian visas are available, but minor overcharging is common.

For information on doing this crossing in the opposite direction, see here.

Ha Tien to Kep

Getting to the border The Xa Xia–Prek Chak border crossing connects Ha Tien with Kep and Kampot on Cambodia’s south coast. Several minibus companies leave Ha Tien for Cambodia at around 1pm, heading to Kep (US$9, one hour), Kampot (US$12, 1½ hours), Sihanoukville (US$15, four hours) and Phnom Penh (US$15, four hours). Book via Ha Tien Tourism.

At the border Cambodian visas are available at the border.

Moving on Most travellers opt for a through minibus ticket.

For information on doing this crossing in the opposite direction, see here.

Chau Doc to Takeo

Getting to the border The Tinh Bien–Phnom Den border crossing is rarely used by travellers. A bus to Phnom Penh (US$25, five to six hours) passes through Chau Doc at around 7.30am; book through Mekong Tours in Chau Doc.

At the border Cambodian visas can be obtained here, although it’s not uncommon to be charged US$35, several dollars more than the official rate.

Moving on Most travellers opt for a through bus ticket from Chau Doc.

For information on doing this crossing in the opposite direction, see here.

Phu Quoc Island

%0297 / Pop 112,000

Fringed with idyllic beaches and with large tracts still covered in dense tropical jungle, Phu Quoc has morphed from a sleepy backwater into a favoured escape.

Beyond the resorts lining Long Beach there’s still ample room for exploration and escaping. Dive the reefs, kayak the bays, eat up back-road miles on a motorbike, dine on fresh seafood or just lounge on the beach.

Despite increasing development (including an international airport), close to 70% of the island is protected as Phu Quoc National Park.

Phu Quoc’s rainy season is from late May to October; the peak season for tourism is between December and March.

1Sights

Deserted white-sand beaches ring Phu Quoc.

Duong DongVILLAGE

The island’s main town and chief fishing port on the central west coast is a tangle of budget hotels catering to domestic tourists (though foreigners are allowed), streetside stalls, bars and shops. The old bridge in town is a great vantage point to photograph the island’s scruffy fishing fleet crammed into the narrow channel, and the filthy, bustling produce market makes for an interesting stroll. Most visitors come for the night market, seafood and the best glimpse at local life on the island.

Long BeachBEACH

(Bai Truong)

Long Beach is draped invitingly along the west coast from Duong Dong almost to An Thoi port. Development concentrates in the north near Duong Dong, where the recliners and rattan umbrellas of the various resorts rule; these are the only stretches that are kept garbage-free. With its west-facing aspect, sunsets can be stupendous.

Although not the prettiest, Long Beach is a good budget choice for accommodation and socialising; and, from its north end, Duong Dong and its night market are in walking distance.

oAn Thoi IslandsISLAND

(Quan Dao An Thoi)

Just off the southern tip of Phu Quoc, these 15 islands and islets are a paradise of white sand and blue waters. They can be visited by chartered boat for a fine day of sightseeing, fishing, swimming and snorkelling. Hon Thom (Pineapple Island) is about 3km in length and is the largest island in the group.

Most boats depart from An Thoi on Phu Quoc, but you can make arrangements through hotels on Long Beach, as well as dive operators.

oSao BeachBEACH

(Bai Sao)

With picture-perfect white sand, the delightful curve of beautiful Sao Beach bends out alongside a sea of mineral-water clarity just a few kilometres from An Thoi, the main shipping port at the southern tip of the island. There are a couple of beachfront restaurants, where you can settle into a deckchair (50,000d for nonguests), change into bathers (10,000d fee) or partake in water sports. If heading down to Sao Beach by motorbike, fill up with petrol before the trip.

Sao Beach | GG-FOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Phu Quoc National ParkNATURE RESERVE

About 90% of Phu Quoc is forested and the trees and adjoining marine environment enjoy official protection. This is the last large stand of forest in the south, and in 2010 the park was declared a Unesco Biosphere Reserve. The forest is densest in northern Phu Quoc, in the Khu Rung Nguyen Sinh forest reserve; you’ll need a motorbike or mountain bike to tackle the bumpy dirt roads that cut through it. There are no real hiking trails.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

MORE OF THE MEKONG DELTA

Most tourists are on hit-and-run day trips from HCMC or passing through on their way to or from Cambodia, but it’s not hard to get off the beaten track in the Mekong Delta. Here are some lesser-known regional gems:

Check out some Khmer culture in Tra Vinh, home to a significant population of Cambodians and their beautiful temples.

The Khmer kingdom of Funan once held sway over much of the lower Mekong; its principal port was at Oc-Eo, located near Long Xuyen. Archaeologists have found ancient Persian and Roman artefacts here.

Birdwatching enthusiasts will want to make a diversion to Tram Chin National Park (h6am-8pm) near Cao Lanh, a habitat for the rare eastern sarus crane. These huge birds are depicted on the bas-reliefs at Angkor and are only found here and in northwest Cambodia.

The small and secluded beach resort of Hon Chong has the most scenic stretch of coastline on the Mekong Delta mainland. The big attractions here are Chua Hang Grotto, Duong Beach and Nghe Island.

2Activities

Jerry’s Jungle ToursBOAT TOUR, HIKING

(%0938 226 021; www.jerrystours.wixsite.com/jerrystours; 106 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; day trips from US$30)

Archipelago explorations by boat, with snorkelling, fishing, one-day and multiday trips to islands, motorbike tours, bouldering, birdwatching, hiking and cultural tours around Phu Quoc.

Flipper Diving ClubDIVING

(%0297-399 4924; www.flipperdiving.com; 60 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; h7am-7pm)

Centrally located, multilingual PADI dive centre for everything from novice dive trips to full instructor courses. Very professional, with plenty of diving experience worldwide, and with instructors who put you at ease if you’re a newbie.

4Sleeping

Most beachside accommodation options are at Long Beach. Expect to pay more here than elsewhere in Vietnam; accommodation prices also yo-yo depending on the season.

4Long Beach

oLangchia HostelHOSTEL$

(%0939 132 613; www.langchia-village.com; 84 Đ Tran Hung Dao; dm US$5-7, d US$15; aWs)

A favourite with solo travellers, this hostel gets plenty of praise for the friendliness and helpfulness of its staff, the lively bar with pool table and the swimming pool to cool down in. Dorm beds come with mozzie nets and individual fans; it’s worth paying extra for the decent breakfast.

Q Hao HostelHOSTEL$

(%0297-359 7999; http://q-hao.com; 122 Tran Hung Dao; dm/d from US$13/35; aiW)

Oh, how Q Hao raises the hostel standard on Phuo Quoc. It boasts the stylings of a Hoi An family mansion but feels modern with comfy dorm beds, privacy curtains, rain shower, air-con, and immaculate cleanliness. And the social aspects remain – nightly free beer, events, pool table, Jacuzzi, and walk to Rory’s Beach Bar. Phu Quoc isn’t just for lovebirds and families.

Sunshine BungalowHOTEL$

(%0297-397 5777; www.sunshinephuquoc.com; Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; bungalows US$23-48; aW)

Friendly place run by a Vietnamese family, just 80m from the sea and sand. Large bright rooms nestle amid lush vegetation and the owners do their best to help. Some English and German spoken.

4Around the Island

FreedomlandHOMESTAY$$

(%0297-399 4891; www.freedomlandphuquoc.com; 2 Ap Ong Lang, Xa Cua Duong; bungalows US$57-86; W) S

With an emphasis on switching off (no TV, wi-fi or air-conditioning in rooms) and socialising – fun communal dinners are a mainstay – Freedomland has 11 basic but elegant bungalows (mosquito nets, fans, solar-heated showers) scattered around a shady plot. The beach is a five-minute walk away, or you can slump in the hammocks strung between the trees. Popular with solo travellers; call ahead.

5Eating & Drinking

Most hotels have on-site cafes or restaurants. The seafood restaurants in the fishing village of Ham Ninh also offer an authentic local experience.

5Duong Dong

oPhu Quoc Night MarketSEAFOOD$

(Cho Dem Phu Quoc; Ð Bach Dang; meals from 50,000d; h4.30pm-3am; v)

The most atmospheric and best-value place to dine on the island, Duong Dong’s busy night market has stalls of snacks, coconut ice cream and a parade of outdoor restaurants serving a delicious range of Vietnamese seafood, grills and vegetarian options. Quality can be a mixed bag, so follow the discerning local crowd. Riverside tables can be a bit whiffy.

Khanh Ly VegetarianVEGAN$

(%0297-281 0180; 35 Ð Nguyen Trai; meals 20,000-45,000d; h8am-8pm; v)

Pick and choose from a buffet of Vietnamese vegan-vegetarian dishes, such as mock shrimp on sugar cane, to accompany green veg and rice for an excellent value, delicious plate. Staff are friendly, and there are also hearty noodle soups to tempt carnivores.

Buddy Ice Cream & Info CafeINTERNATIONAL$$

(%0297-399 4181; 6 Ð Bach Dang; meals 80,000-180,000d; h8am-10pm; W)

With the coolest music in town, this cafe is excellent for sides of tourist info with its New Zealand ice-cream combos, toasted sandwiches, fish ‘n’ chips, thirst-busting fruit juices, shakes, smoothies, all-day breakfasts, comfy sofas and book exchange. The owner speaks English and is generous with travel advice.

5Long Beach

Heaven RestaurantVIETNAMESE$

(%0975 542 769; 141 Ð Tran Hung Dao; meals 40,000-90,000d; h8am-11pm; v)

You may not expect heaven to have basic wooden tables opening onto a road, but it does at this good-value family joint. With fresh, generous servings of Vietnamese dishes such as lemongrass chicken, and a very long list of vegetarian options, this is paradise for every taste.

Winston’s Burgers & BeerBURGERS$

(%0126 390 1093; 121 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; burgers from 135,000d; h12.30-10.30pm)

The name says it all: this bar is about really good burgers, beer and a large selection of cocktails, mixed by the eponymous Winston. Linger for a chat or challenge your drinking companions to a game of Connect 4. It has few vegetarian options.

Alanis DeliCAFE$

(%0297-399 4931; 98 Ð Tran Hung Dao; meals from 60,000d; h8am-10.30pm; W)

Fab caramel pancakes, American breakfast combos, plus good (if pricey) coffee and wonderfully friendly service.

oRory’s Beach BarBAR

(%0919 333 950; 118/10 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; h9am-1am)

Phu Quoc’s liveliest and most fun beach bar draws a steady torrent of travellers and island residents down the path to its seaside perch. Expect bonfires on the beach, great happy-hour specials and staff ready to chat.

SPLURGE

Nab a sea-view table, order a papaya salad, grilled garlic prawns, banh xeo (Vietnamese pancake), cinnamon-infused okra, a delectable Khmer fish curry or grilled beef skewers wrapped in betel leaves and time dinner to catch the sunset at the excellent restaurant at Spice House at Cassia Cottage (www.cassiacottage.com; 100c Ð Tran Hung Dao; meals 190,000-300,000d; h7-10am & 11am-10pm) . There’s even a single romantic cabana table right on the sand. It’s the best option nearby, attracting plenty of nonresort guests.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

There are international flights to Singapore and Bangkok. Vietnam Airlines (%0297-399 6677; www.vietnamairlines.com; 122 Ð Nguyen Trung Truc), VietJet Air (www.vietjetair.com) and Jetstar between them offer daily flights to Can Tho, Hanoi, HCMC, Haiphong and Rach Gia. Demand can be high in peak season, so book ahead

BOAT

Fast boats connect Phu Quoc to both Ha Tien (1½ hours) and Rach Gia (2½ hours). Phu Quoc travel agents have the most up-to-date schedules and can book tickets. Five virtually identical operators, including Duong Dong Express (%Phu Quoc 0297-398 1648, Rach Gia 0297-387 9765; 4 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao) and Superdong run fast boats from Rach Gia to Phu Quoc’s Bai Vong on the east coast, most departing at 8am and making the return journey at 1pm (250,000d).

Three daily fast ferries (230,000d) from Ha Tien arrive at the Ham Ninh port, just north of Bai Vong. There are also car ferries to/from Ha Tien and Phu Quoc’s Da Chong port.

8Getting Around

The island’s airport is 10km from Duong Dong; a taxi costs around 100,000d to Long Beach. Bicycles/motorbikes are available through most hotels from 70,000/120,000d per day. There is a skeletal bus service (every hour or two) between An Thoi and Duong Dong. A bus (20,000d) waits for the ferry at Bai Vong to take passengers to Duong Dong. Motorbike taxis are everywhere. Short hops cost 20,000d; figure on around 60,000d for about 5km.

Understand Vietnam

Vietnam Today

Two decades of rising, sustained growth has transformed Vietnam. Change is most apparent in the big cities, where steel-and-glass high-rises define skylines and a burgeoning middle class now has the spending power to enjoy air-conditioned living and overseas travel. Yet in rural areas the nation’s new-found prosperity is less evident, and up in the highlands life remains a day-to-day struggle for millions of minority people.

The Big Picture

In the 40 years since the end of the American War, Vietnam has made giant strides. A victorious, though bankrupt, nation has worked around the clock, grafting its way forward, overcoming a series of formidable hurdles (including a 19-year US trade embargo). Per-capita income grew from US$98 in 1993 to over US$2000 by 2015, and today Vietnam is one of the 10 fastest-growing economies in the world, boosted by strong manufacturing. Start-up business numbers are booming. And yet this rapid development is disjointed. The state sector remains huge, controlling around two-fifths of the economy – 100 of the 200 biggest Vietnamese companies are state-owned (including oil production, shipbuilding, cement and coal). Many of these operations haemorrhage money.

The spectre of corruption casts a shadow over development every step of the way. Transparency International ranked Vietnam the lowest of all the Asia Pacific countries it measured in 2014. Corruption scandals emerge on a daily basis, such as the nine Vinashin shipbuilding execs jailed following the company’s near-collapse under US$4.5 billion of debt. For most Vietnamese people corruption is simply a part of day-to-day life, as they have to pay backhanders for everything from securing a civil service job to an internet connection.

North & South

The Vietnamese economy has been buoyant for 20 years, but some areas are more buoyant than others. In 2015 Ho Chi Minh City’s economy was growing at 8.6%, well above that in the north. It’s the south that’s benefited most from inward investment as Viet Kieu (overseas Vietnamese, the vast majority of whom are southerners) have returned and invested in the region.

The government is aware of these divisions and tries to balance the offices of state, so if the prime minister is from the south, the head of the Communist Party is from the north.

When it comes to the older generation, the south has never forgiven the north for bulldozing their war cemeteries, imposing communism and blackballing whole families. The north has never forgiven the south for siding with the Americans against their own people. Luckily for Vietnam, the new generation seems to have less interest in the country’s harrowing history.

Uneasy Neighbours

On the surface, Vietnam and its northern neighbour China have much in common, with a shared heritage, common frontier and all-powerful ruling Communist parties. But for the Vietnamese, China represents something of an overbearing big brother (and 1000 years of subordination). The nations fought a recent on-off border war which rumbled on for years, only ending in 1990. In a 2014 survey, over 80% of Vietnamese were concerned that another conflict could erupt over offshore islands in the South China Sea (always the ‘East Sea’ in Vietnam). China claims virtually the whole area, and is busy constructing port facilities and airstrips. In May 2014 anti-Chinese riots erupted in several provinces, resulting in at least 21 deaths, in response to China deploying an oil rig in the Paracel Islands. Thousands of Chinese nationals fled the country. By November 2015 tensions remained but the situation had calmed enough for President Xi Jinping to visit Hanoi as the countries sought to repair ties.

The two nations have plenty of common ground. Trade has continued to boom (though it is more one way than the Vietnamese would like), reaching US$58 billion in 2014, and Chinese is the second most popular foreign language studied in Vietnam. Ultimately, Presidents Trong and Xi signed various cooperation agreements concerning investment and infrastructure but little progress was evident over territorial disputes.

THE WAY IT IS

Vietnam’s political system could not be simpler: the Communist Party is the sole source of power. Officially, according to the Vietnamese constitution, the National Assembly (parliament) is the country’s supreme authority, but in practice it’s a tool of the party and carefully controlled elections ensure 90% of delegates are Communist Party members.

History

Early Vietnam

The Vietnamese trace their roots back to the Red River Delta where farmers first cultivated rice. Millennia of struggle against the Chinese then followed. Vietnam only became a united state in the 19th century, but quickly faced the ignominy of French colonialism and then the devastation of the American intervention. The Vietnamese nation has survived tempestuous, troubled times, but its strength of character has served it well. Today, the signs are it’s continuing to grow with some promise.

The sophisticated Indianised kingdom of Funan flourished from the 1st to 6th centuries AD in the Mekong Delta area. Archaeological evidence reveals that Funan’s busy trading port of Oc-Eo had contact with China, India, Persia and even the Mediterranean. Between the mid-6th century and the 9th century, the Funan empire was absorbed by the pre-Angkorian kingdom of Chenla.

Meanwhile, around present-day Danang, the Hindu kingdom of Champa emerged in the late 2nd century AD. Like Funan, it adopted Sanskrit as a sacred language and borrowed heavily from Indian art and culture. By the 8th century Champa had expanded to include what is now Nha Trang and Phan Rang. The Cham warred constantly with the Vietnamese to the north and the Khmers to the south and ultimately found themselves squeezed between these two great powers.

Chinese Occupation

The Chinese conquered the Red River Delta in the 2nd century BC and over the following centuries attempted to impress a centralised state system on the Vietnamese. There were numerous small-scale rebellions against Chinese rule – which was characterised by tyranny, forced labour and insatiable demands for tribute – between the 3rd and 6th centuries, but all were defeated.

However, the early Viets learned much from the Chinese, including advanced irrigation for rice cultivation and medical knowledge as well as Confucianism, Taoism and Mahayana Buddhism. Much of the 1000-year period of Chinese occupation was typified by both Vietnamese resistance and the adoption of many Chinese cultural traits.

In AD 938 Ngo Quyen destroyed Chinese forces on the Bach Dang River, winning independence and signalling the start of a dynastic tradition. During subsequent centuries the Vietnamese successfully repulsed foreign invaders, including the Mongols, and absorbed the kingdom of Champa in 1471 as they expanded south.

UNCLE OF THE PEOPLE

Father of the nation, Ho Chi Minh (Bringer of Light) was the son of a fiercely nationalistic scholar-official. Born Nguyen Tat Thanh near Vinh in 1890, he was educated in Hue and adopted many pseudonyms during his momentous life. Many Vietnamese affectionately refer to him as Bac Ho (Uncle Ho) today.

In 1911 he signed up as a cook’s apprentice on a French ship, sailing the seas to North America, Africa and Europe. While he was odd-jobbing in England and France as a gardener, snow sweeper, waiter, photo-retoucher and stoker, his political consciousness developed.

Ho Chi Minh moved to Paris, where he mastered languages including English, French, German and Mandarin and began to promote the issue of Indochinese independence. He was a founding member of the French Communist Party in 1920.

In 1941 Ho Chi Minh returned to Vietnam for the first time in 30 years, and established the Viet Minh (whose goal was independence from France). As Japan prepared to surrender in August 1945, Ho Chi Minh led the August Revolution, and his forces then established control throughout much of Vietnam.

The return of the French compelled the Viet Minh to conduct a guerrilla war, which ultimately led to victory against the colonists at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. Ho then led North Vietnam until his death in September 1969 – he never lived to see the North’s victory over the South.

Since then the party has worked hard to preserve the image and reputation of Bac Ho. His image dominates contemporary Vietnam. This cult of personality is in stark contrast to the simplicity with which Ho lived his life. For more Ho, check out Ho Chi Minh, the excellent biography by William J Duiker.

Contact with the West

In 1858 a joint military force from France and the Spanish colony of the Philippines stormed Danang after several missionaries were killed. Early the next year, Saigon was seized. By 1883 the French had imposed a Treaty of Protectorate on Vietnam. French rule often proved cruel and arbitrary. Ultimately, the most successful resistance came from the communists, first organised by Ho Chi Minh in 1925.

During WWII the only group that significantly resisted the Japanese occupation was the communist-dominated Viet Minh. When WWII ended, Ho Chi Minh – whose Viet Minh forces already controlled large parts of the country – declared Vietnam independent. French efforts to reassert control soon led to violent confrontations and full-scale war. In May 1954 Viet Minh forces overran the French garrison at Dien Bien Phu.

The Geneva Accords of mid-1954 provided for a temporary division of Vietnam at the Ben Hai River. When Ngo Dinh Diem, the anti-communist, Catholic leader of the southern zone, refused to hold the 1956 elections, the Ben Hai line became the border between North and South Vietnam.

The War in Vietnam

Around 1960 the Hanoi government changed its policy of opposition to the Diem regime from one of ‘political struggle’ to one of ‘armed struggle’. The National Liberation Front (NLF), a communist guerrilla group better known as the Viet Cong (VC), was founded to fight against Diem.

An unpopular ruler, Diem was assassinated in 1963 by his own troops. When the Hanoi government ordered North Vietnamese Army (NVA) units to infiltrate the South in 1964, the situation for the Saigon regime became desperate. In 1965 the USA committed its first combat troops, soon joined by soldiers from South Korea, Australia, Thailand and New Zealand in an effort to bring global legitimacy to the conflict.

As Vietnam celebrated the Lunar New Year in 1968, the VC launched a surprise attack, known as the Tet Offensive, marking a crucial turning point in the war. Many Americans, who had for years believed their government’s insistence that the USA was winning, started demanding a negotiated end to the war. The Paris Agreements, signed in 1973, provided for a ceasefire, the total withdrawal of US combat forces and the release of American prisoners of war.

Reunification

Saigon surrendered to the NVA on 30 April 1975. Vietnam’s reunification by the communists meant liberation from more than a century of colonial oppression, but was soon followed by large-scale internal repression. Hundreds of thousands of southerners fled Vietnam, creating a flood of refugees for the next 15 years.

Vietnam’s campaign of repression against the ethnic Chinese, plus its invasion of Cambodia at the end of 1978, prompted China to attack Vietnam in 1979. The war lasted only 17 days, but Chinese–Vietnamese mistrust lasted for well over a decade.

Post-Cold War

After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, Vietnam and Western nations sought rapprochement. The 1990s brought foreign investment and Association of Southeast Asian Nations (Asean) membership. The US established diplomatic relations with Vietnam in 1995, and Bill Clinton and George W Bush visited Hanoi. Vietnam was welcomed into the World Trade Organization (WTO) in 2007.

In recent years friction has grown between Vietnam and China over territorial claims in the South China Sea, and there were anti-Chinese riots in 2014. Conversely, relations between the USA and Vietnam have become much warmer, with booming bilateral trade.

People & Culture

The Vietnamese are battle-hardened, proud and nationalist, as they have earned their stripes in successive skirmishes with the world’s mightiest powers. But that’s the older generation, who remember every inch of the territory for which they fought. For the new generation, Vietnam is a place to succeed, a place to ignore the staid structures set in stone by the communists, and a place to go out and have some fun.

As in other parts of Asia, life revolves around the family; there are often several generations living under one roof. Poverty, and the transition from a largely agricultural society to that of a more industrialised nation, sends many people seeking their fortune to the bigger cities, and is changing the structure of the modern family unit. Women make up 52% of the nation’s workforce but are not well represented in positions of power.

Vietnam’s population is 84% ethnic Vietnamese (Kinh) and 2% ethnic Chinese; the rest is made up of Khmers, Chams and members of more than 50 minority peoples, who mainly live in highland areas.

Religion

Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have fused with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what’s collectively known as the Triple Religion (Tam Giao). Most Vietnamese people identify with this belief system, but, if asked, they’ll usually say they’re Buddhist. Vietnam also has a significant percentage of Catholics (8% to 10% of the total population).

Cao Daism is a unique and colourful Vietnamese sect that was founded in the 1920s. It combines secular and religious philosophies of the East and West, and is based on seance messages revealed to the group’s founder, Ngo Minh Chieu.

There are also small numbers of Muslims (around 65,000) and Hindus (50,000).

BEST FILMS

Apocalypse Now (1979) The American War depicted as an epic ‘heart of darkness’ adventure.

The Deer Hunter (1978) Examines the psychological breakdown suffered by small-town servicemen.

Cyclo (1995) Visually stunning masterpiece that cuts to the core of HCMC’s underworld.

The Quiet American (2002) Atmospherically set in Saigon during the French colonial period, with rebellion in the air.

The Vietnam War (2017) Definitive documentary series, which examines the roots of the conflict, war itself, and consequences.

Etiquette

Take your time to learn a little about the local culture in Vietnam.

ARespect local dress standards: shorts to the knees, women’s tops covering the shoulders, particularly at religious sites. Remove your shoes before entering a temple. Topless or nude sunbathing is totally inappropriate.

AExchanging business cards is an important part of even the smallest transaction or business contact. Hand them out like confetti.

ALeaving a pair of chopsticks sitting vertically in a rice bowl looks very much like the incense sticks that are burned for the dead. This is not appreciated anywhere in Asia.

ARemove shoes when entering somebody’s home. Don’t point the bottom of your feet towards other people. Never, ever point your feet towards anything sacred, such as a Buddha image.

AAs a form of respect to elderly or other esteemed people, such as monks, take off your hat and bow your head politely when addressing them. The head is the symbolic highest point – never pat or touch a person on the head.

BEST BOOKS

The Quiet American (Graham Greene) Classic novel set in the 1950s as the French empire is collapsing.

The Sorrow of War (Bao Ninh) The North Vietnamese perspective, retold in novel form via flashbacks.

Vietnam: Rising Dragon (Bill Hayton) A candid assessment of the nation that’s one of the most up-to-date sources available.

Catfish & Mandala (Andrew X Pham) Beautifully written and thought-provoking biographical tale of a Vietnamese-American.

The Sympathizer (Viet Thanh Nguyen) Superbly written spy novel dealing with the aftermath of the American War; 2016 Pulitzer Prize–winner.

Arts

Contemporary Art & Music

It is possible to catch modern dance, classical ballet and stage plays in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

The work of contemporary painters and photographers covers a wide swath of styles and gives a glimpse into the modern Vietnamese psyche; there are good galleries in Hanoi, HCMC and Hoi An.

Youth culture is most vibrant in HCMC and Hanoi, where there’s more freedom for musicians and artists. There’s a small but growing hip-hop scene, with HCMC-born Suboi acknowledged as Vietnam’s leading female artist; she raps to eclectic beats including dubstep rhythms. Hot bands include HCMC’s The Children, metal merchants Black Infinity, punk band Giao Chi and alt-roots band 6789.

Viet-American Trace is an emerging artist whose moody, indie-tronic album Low received rave reviews upon release in 2017.

Architecture

The Vietnamese were not great builders like their neighbours the Khmer. Early Vietnamese structures were made of wood and other materials that proved highly vulnerable in the tropical climate. The grand exceptions are the stunning towers built by Vietnam’s ancient Cham culture. These are most numerous in central Vietnam. The Cham ruins at My Son are a major draw.

Sculpture

Vietnamese sculpture has traditionally centred on religious themes and has functioned as an adjunct to architecture, especially that of pagodas, temples and tombs.

The Cham civilisation produced exquisite carved sandstone figures for its Hindu and Buddhist sanctuaries. The largest single collection of Cham sculpture is at the Museum of Cham Sculpture in Danang.

Water Puppetry

Vietnam’s ancient art of roi nuoc (water puppetry) originated in northern Vietnam at least 1000 years ago. Developed by rice farmers, the wooden puppets were manipulated by puppeteers using water-flooded rice paddies as their stage. Hanoi is the best place to see water-puppetry performances, which are accompanied by music played on traditional instruments.

Food & Drink

Food

Vietnamese food is one of the world’s greatest cuisines; there are said to be nearly 500 traditional dishes. It varies a lot between the north, centre and south. Soy sauce, Chinese influence and hearty soups like pho typify northern cuisine. Central Vietnamese food is known for its prodigious use of fresh herbs and intricate flavours; Hue imperial cuisine and Hoi An specialities are key to this area. Southern food is sweet, spicy and tropical – its curries will be familiar to lovers of Thai and Cambodian food. Everywhere you’ll find that Vietnamese meals are superbly prepared and excellent value.

Most restaurants trade seven days a week, opening around 7am or 8am and closing around 9pm, often later in the big cities.

Fruit

Aside from the usual delightful Southeast Asian fruits, Vietnam has its own unique trai thanh long (green dragon fruit), a bright fuchsia-coloured fruit with green scales. Grown mainly in the coastal region near Nha Trang, it has white flesh flecked with edible black seeds, and tastes something like a mild kiwifruit.

Meals

Pho is the noodle soup that built a nation and is eaten at all hours of the day, but especially for breakfast. Com are rice dishes. You’ll see signs saying pho and com everywhere. Other noodle soups to try are bun bo Hue (rice-noodle soup with beef and pork) and hu tieu.

Spring rolls (nem in the north, cha gio in the south) are a speciality. These are normally dipped in nuoc mam (fish sauce), though many foreigners prefer soy sauce (xi dau in the north, nuoc tuong in the south).

Because Buddhist monks of the Mahayana tradition are strict vegetarians, an chay (vegetarian cooking) is an integral part of Vietnamese cuisine.

THERE’S SOMETHING FISHY AROUND HERE…

Nuoc mam (fish sauce) is the one ingredient that is quintessentially Vietnamese, and it lends a distinctive character to Vietnamese cooking. The sauce is made by fermenting highly salted fish in large ceramic vats for four to 12 months. Connoisseurs insist high-grade sauce has a much milder aroma than the cheaper variety. Dissenters insist it is a chemical weapon. It’s very often used as a dipping sauce, and takes the place occupied by salt on a Western table.

Snacks

Street stalls or roaming vendors are everywhere, selling steamed sweet potatoes, rice porridge and ice-cream bars even in the wee hours.

There are also many other Vietnamese nibbles to try, including the following:

Bap xao Made from stir-fried fresh corn, chillies and tiny shrimp.

Bo bia Nearly microscopic shrimp, fresh lettuce and thin slices of Vietnamese sausage, rolled up in rice paper and dipped in a spicy-sweet peanut sauce.

Sinh to Shakes made with milk and sugar or yoghurt, and fresh tropical fruit.

Sweets

Many sticky confections are made from sticky rice, like banh it nhan dau, which also contains sugar and bean paste and is sold wrapped in banana leaf.

Most foreigners prefer kem (ice cream) or yaourt (yoghurt), which is generally of good quality. Try che, a cold, refreshing sweet soup made with sweetened black bean, green bean or corn. It’s served in a glass with ice and sweet coconut cream on top.

Drink

Vietnamese Coffee Culture

Enjoying a Vietnamese coffee is a tradition that can’t be rushed. A glass tumbler, topped with a curious aluminium lid is placed before you while you crouch on a tiny blue plastic chair. A layer of condensed milk on the bottom of the glass is gradually infused with coffee lazily drip, drip, dripping from the aluminium top. Minutes pass, and eventually a darker caffeine-laden layer floats atop the condensed milk. Stir it together purposefully – maybe pouring it over ice in a separate glass – and it’s definitely an energising ritual worth waiting for. And while you’re drip-watching, consider the caphe variations usually on offer in a Vietnamese cafe.

Caphe sua da Iced coffee with condensed milk.

Caphe da Iced coffee without milk.

Caphe den Black coffee.

Caphe sua chua Iced coffee with yoghurt.

Caphe trung da Coffee topped with a beaten egg yolk.

Alcoholic Drinks

Memorise the words bia hoi, which mean ‘draught beer’. Probably the cheapest beer in the world, bia hoi starts at around 5000d a glass, so anyone can afford a round. Places that serve bia hoi usually also serve cheap food.

Several foreign labels brewed in Vietnam under licence include Tiger, Carlsberg and Heineken. National and regional brands include Halida and Hanoi in the North, Huda and Larue in the centre, and BGI and 333 (ba ba ba) in the south. Craft beer is also increasingly popular, and both HCMC and Hanoi have excellent craft breweries and specialist beer bars.

Wine and spirits are available but at higher prices. Local brews are cheaper but not always drinkable.

Nonalcoholic Drinks

Whatever you drink, make sure that it’s been boiled or bottled. Ice is generally safe on the tourist trail, but may not be elsewhere.

Foreign soft drinks are widely available in Vietnam. An excellent local treat is soda chanh (carbonated mineral water with lemon and sugar) or nuoc chanh nong (hot, sweetened lemon juice).

Environment

Environmental consciousness is low in Vietnam. Rapid industrialisation, deforestation and pollution are major problems facing the country.

Unsustainable logging and farming practices, as well as the extensive spraying of defoliants by the US during the war, have contributed to deforestation. This has resulted not only in significant loss of biological diversity, but also in a harder existence for many minority people.

The country’s rapid economic and population growth over the last decade – demonstrated by the dramatic increase in industrial production, motorbike numbers and helter-skelter construction – has put additional pressure on the already-stressed environment.

The Land

Vietnam stretches more than 1600km along the east coast of the Indochinese peninsula. The country’s land area is 329,566 sq km, making it slightly larger than Italy and a bit smaller than Japan.

As the Vietnamese are quick to point out, it resembles a don ganh, the ubiquitous bamboo pole with a basket of rice slung from each end. The baskets represent the main rice-growing regions of the Red River Delta in the north and the Mekong Delta in the south.

Of several interesting geological features found in Vietnam, the most striking are its spectacular karst formations (limestone peaks with caves and underground streams). The northern half of Vietnam has a spectacular array of karst areas, particularly around Halong Bay and Phong Nha.

Wildlife

We’ll start with the good news. Despite some disastrous bouts of deforestation, Vietnam’s flora and fauna is still incredibly exotic and varied. The nation has an estimated 12,000 plant species, only 7000 of which have been identified; more than 275 species of mammal; 800 species of bird; 180 species of reptile; and 80 species of amphibian. The other side of the story is that, despite this outstanding diversity, the threat to Vietnam’s remaining wildlife has never been greater, due to poaching, hunting and habitat loss. Three of the nation’s iconic animals – the elephant, the saola and the tiger – are on the brink. It’s virtually certain that the last wild Vietnamese rhino was killed inside Cat Tien National Park in 2010. And for every trophy animal there are hundreds of other less ‘headline’ species that are being cleared from forests and reserves for the sake of profit (or hunger).

Many officials still turn a blind eye to the trade in wildlife for export and domestic consumption, though laws are in place to protect the animals. Poachers continue to profit from meeting the demand for exotic animals for pets and traditional medicines.

National Parks

There are 31 national parks and over 150 nature reserves; officially, 9% of the nation’s territory is protected. In the north the most interesting and accessible include Cat Ba, Bai Tu Long, Ba Be and Cuc Phuong. Heading south Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Bach Ma National Park, Yok Don National Park and Cat Tien National Park are well worth investigating.

Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

ACCOMMODATION

Accommodation is superb value for money in Vietnam. As tourism is booming it’s usually best to book your accommodation a day or two in advance, or several weeks ahead in the high season (the Tet holiday in late January to mid-February, July to August, and around Christmas).

Hotels Range from simple, functional minih-otels to uber-luxurious spa resorts.

Hostels Popular in the main tourism centres, but rare elsewhere.

Guesthouses Usually family run and less formal than hotels.

Camping Options are extremely limited, but new facilities are opening in southern Vietnam.

SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom in high season. Unless otherwise stated, tax is included, but breakfast excluded, from the price.

$ less than US$25 (560,000d)

$$ US$25 (560,000d) to US$75 (1,700,000d)

$$$ more than US$75 (1,700,000d)

HOMESTAYS

Homestays are a possible option in parts of Vietnam, particularly rural areas. All places have to be officially licensed.

Areas that are well set up include the Mekong Delta; the White Thai villages of Mai Chau, Ba Be and Moc Chau; parts of the central highlands; and the Cham Islands.

CHILDREN

Children will have a good time in Vietnam, mainly because of the overwhelming amount of attention they attract and the fact that almost everybody wants to play with them.

ABig cities usually have plenty to keep kids interested, though traffic safety is a serious concern.

AWatch out for rip tides along the main coastline. Some popular beaches have warning flags and lifeguards.

ALocal cuisine is rarely too spicy for kids and the range of fruit is staggering. International food (pizzas, pasta, burgers and ice cream) is available, too.

ABreastfeeding in public is perfectly acceptable in Vietnam.

Check out Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children for more information and advice.

ELECTRICITY

Voltage is 220V, 50 cycles. Sockets are two pin, round head.

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

Generally speaking, embassies won’t be that sympathetic if you end up in jail after committing a crime. In genuine emergencies you might get some assistance.

If you have your passport stolen, it can take some time to replace it as many embassies in Vietnam do not issue new passports, which have to be sent from a regional embassy.

Australian Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3774 0100; www.vietnam.embassy.gov.au; 8 Ð Dao Tan, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi)

Australian Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3521 8100; www.hcmc.vietnam.embassy.gov.au; 20th fl, Ð 47 Ly Tu Truong, Vincom Center, HCMC)

Cambodian Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3825 6473; camemb.vnm@mfa.gov.kh; 71a P Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi; h8.00-11.30am & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri)

Cambodian Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3829 2751; camcg.hcm@mfa.gov.kh; 41 Ð Phung Khac Khoan, HCMC)

Canadian Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/vietnam; 31 Ð Hung Vuong, Hanoi)

Canadian Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3827 9899; www.canadainternational.gc.ca; 10th fl, 235 Ð Dong Khoi, HCMC)

Chinese Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-8845 3736; http://vn.china-embassy.org; 46 P Hoang Dieu, Hanoi)

Chinese Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3829 2457; http://hcmc.chineseconsulate.org; 175 Ð Hai Ba Trung, HCMC)

French Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3944 5700; www.ambafrance-vn.org; P Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi)

French Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3520 6800; www.consulfrance-hcm.org; 27 Ð Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, HCMC)

German Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3845 3836; www.hanoi.diplo.de; 29 Ð Tran Phu, Hanoi)

German Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3829 1967; www.ho-chi-minh-stadt.diplo.de; 126 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu, HCMC)

Japanese Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3846 3000; www.vn.emb-japan.go.jp; 27 P Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi)

Japanese Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3933 3510; www.hcmcgj.vn.emb-japan.go.jp; 261 Ð Dien Bien Phu, HCMC)

Laotian Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3942 4576; 40 Quang Trung, Hanoi; h8.30-11.30am & 1-4pm Mon-Fri)

Laotian Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3829 7667; 93 Ð Pasteur, HCMC)

Netherlands Embassy (MAP; %024-3831-5650; www.nederlandwereldwijd.nl/landen/vietnam; 7th fl, BIDV Tower, 194 Ð Tran Quang Khai, Hanoi)

Netherlands Consulate (MAP; %028-3823 5932; www.nederlandwereldwijd.nl/landen/vietnam; Saigon Tower, 29 ÐL Le Duan, HCMC)

New Zealand Embassy (MAP; %024-3824 1481; www.mfat.govt.nz; Level 5, 63 P Ly Thai To, Hanoi)

New Zealand Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3822 6907; www.mfat.govt.nz/en/countries-and-regions/south-east-asia/viet-nam/new-zealand-embassy/; 8th fl, The Metropolitan, 235 Ð Dong Khoi, HCMC)

Singaporean Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3848 9168; www.mfa.gov.sg/hanoi; 41-43 Ð Tran Phu, Hanoi)

Thai Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3823 5092; www.thaiembassy.org; 3-65 P Hoang Dieu, Hanoi)

Thai Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3932 7637; www.thaiembassy.org/hochiminh; 77 Ð Tran Quoc Thao, HCMC)

UK Embassy (MAP; %024-3936 0500; http://ukinvietnam.fco.gov.uk; 4th fl, Central Bldg, 31 P Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi)

UK Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3825 1380; www.gov.uk/world/organisations/british-consulate-general-ho-chi-minh-city; 25 ÐL Le Duan, HCMC)

US Embassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %024-3850 5000; https://vn.usembassy.gov; 7 P Lang Ha, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi)

US Consulate (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %028-3520 4200; https://vn.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulates/ho-chi-minh-city; 4 ÐL Le Duan, HCMC)

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a typical meal (excluding drinks). Unless otherwise stated, taxes are included in the price.

Budget less than US$5 (115,000d)

Midrange US$5 (115,000d) to US$15 (340,000d)

Top end more than US$15 (340,000d)

INSURANCE

Insurance is a must for Vietnam, as the cost of major medical treatment is prohibitive. A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is the best bet.

Some insurance policies specifically exclude such ‘dangerous activities’ as riding motorbikes, diving and even trekking. Check that your policy covers an emergency evacuation in the event of serious injury.

If you’re driving a vehicle, you need a Vietnamese insurance policy.

Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.

INTERNET ACCESS

Internet and wi-fi are widely available throughout Vietnam. Something like 98% of hotels and guesthouses have wi-fi; only in very remote places (such as national parks) is it not standard. Wi-fi is almost always free of charge. Many cafes and restaurants also have (free) wi-fi. Connection speeds are normally good. Internet cafes are also available, costing 3000d to 8000d per hour.

Most travellers also surf the net using 3G or 4G mobile phone connections.

LEGAL MATTERS

Very few foreigners experience any hassle from police. If you lose something really valuable such as your passport or visa, you’ll need to contact them. Note you may face imprisonment and/or large fines for drug offences, and drug trafficking can be punishable by death.

LGBT TRAVELLERS

Vietnam is pretty hassle-free for gay travellers. There’s not much in the way of harassment, nor are there official laws on same-sex relationships. VietPride (www.facebook.com/vietpride.vn) marches have been held in Hanoi and HCMC since 2012. Gay weddings were officially authorised in 2015 (though their legal status has not yet been recognised). Checking into hotels as a same-sex couple is perfectly OK. But be discreet – public displays of affection are not socially acceptable whatever your sexual orientation.

Check out Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com) to obtain contacts and useful travel information. The gay dating app Grindr is popular in Vietnam.

MONEY

The Vietnamese currency is the dong (abbreviated to ‘d’). US dollars are also widely used.

For the last few years the dong has been fairly stable at around 22,000d to the US dollar.

ATMs are widespread and present in virtually every town in the country.

Tipping is not expected, but is appreciated.

Credit & Debit Cards

Visa and MasterCard are accepted in many tourist centres, but don’t expect noodle bars to take plastic. Commission charges (around 3%) sometimes apply.

For cash advances, try branches of Vietcombank in most cities around the country. Expect to pay at least a 3% commission for this service.

OPENING HOURS

Hours vary little throughout the year.

Banks 8am–3pm weekdays, to 11.30am Saturday; some take a lunch break

Offices and museums 7am or 7.30am–5pm or 6pm; museums generally close on Monday; most take a lunch break (roughly 11am–1.30pm)

Restaurants 11am–9pm

Shops 8am–6pm

Temples and pagodas 5am–9pm

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

If a public holiday falls on a weekend, it is observed on the Monday.

New Year’s Day (Tet Duong Lich) 1 January

Vietnamese New Year (Tet) January or February; a three-day national holiday

Founding of the Vietnamese Communist Party (Thanh Lap Dang CSVN) 3 February; the date the party was founded in 1930

Hung Kings Commemorations (Hung Vuong) 10th day of the 3rd lunar month (March or April)

Liberation Day (Saigon Giai Phong) 30 April; the date of Saigon’s 1975 surrender is commemorated nationwide

International Workers’ Day (Quoc Te Lao Dong) 1 May

Ho Chi Minh’s Birthday (Sinh Nhat Bac Ho) 19 May

Buddha’s Birthday (Phat Dan) Eighth day of the fourth moon (usually June)

National Day (Quoc Khanh) 2 September; commemorates the Declaration of Independence by Ho Chi Minh in 1945

SAFE TRAVEL

All in all, Vietnam is an extremely safe country to travel in.

AThe police keep a pretty tight grip on social order and there are rarely reports of muggings, robberies or sexual assaults.

AScams and hassles do exist, particularly in Hanoi, HCMC and Nha Trang (and to a lesser degree in Hoi An).

ABe extra careful if you’re travelling on two wheels on Vietnam’s anarchic roads; traffic accident rates are woeful and driving standards are pretty appalling.

TELEPHONE

A mobile phone with a local SIM card (and an internet-based calls and messaging app) will allow you to get online and make phone calls in Vietnam.

Local calls

Domestic calls are very inexpensive using a Vietnamese SIM.

Phone numbers in Hanoi, HCMC and Haiphong have eight digits. Elsewhere around the country phone numbers have seven digits. Telephone area codes are assigned according to the province.

International calls

It’s usually easiest to use wi-fi and a calling app such as Skype. Mobile phone rates for international phone calls can be less than US$0.10 a minute.

Mobile Phones

If you have an unlocked phone, it’s virtually essential to get a local SIM card for longer visits in Vietnam. 3G and 4G data packages are some of the cheapest in the world at around 150,000d for 3GB and will enable you to use the net if wi-fi is weak; some packages include call time, too. Many SIM card deals allow you to call abroad cheaply (from 2000d a minute).

Get the shop owner (or someone at your hotel) to set up your phone in English or your native language. The three main mobile-phone companies are Viettel, Vinaphone and Mobifone.

Phone Codes

Most regional phone codes (59 of Vietnam’s 63 provinces) changed in 2017. Many publications and web pages will take some time to update numbers using new codes.

TIME

Vietnam is seven hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time/Universal Time Coordinated (GMT/UTC). There’s no daylight saving or summer time.

TOILETS

AThe issue of toilets and what to do with used toilet paper can cause confusion. In general, if there’s a wastepaper basket next to the toilet, that is where the toilet paper goes (many sewage systems cannot handle toilet paper). If there’s no basket, flush paper down the toilet.

AToilet paper is usually provided though it’s wise to keep a stash of your own while on the move.

AThere are still some squat toilets in public places and out in the countryside.

AThe scarcity of public toilets is more of a problem for women than for men. Vietnamese men often urinate in public. Women might find roadside toilet stops easier if wearing a sarong. You usually have to pay a few dong to an attendant to access a public toilet.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist offices in Vietnam have a different philosophy from the majority of tourist offices worldwide. These government-owned enterprises are really travel agencies whose primary interests are booking tours and turning a profit. Don’t expect much independent travel information.

Vietnam Tourism (www.vietnamtourism.com)

Saigon Tourist (www.saigon-tourist.com)

Travel agents, backpacker cafes and your fellow travellers are usually a much better source of information.

Other Useful Websites

The Word (www.wordhcmc.com) This superb magazine has comprehensive coverage and excellent features.

Vietnam Coracle (http://vietnamcoracle.com) Excellent independent travel advice, including lots of backroads content.

Vietnam Online (www.vietnamonline.com) Good all-rounder.

Coast Vietnam (www.coastvietnam.com) Classy website concentrating on Vietnam’s central coast.

Rusty Compass (www.rustycompass.com) Useful online travel guide with itineraries and videos.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/vietnam) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES

Vietnam is not the easiest of places for travellers with disabilities. Tactical problems include the chaotic traffic, a lack of lifts (elevators) in smaller hotels, and pavements (sidewalks) that are routinely blocked by parked motorbikes and food stalls.

That said, with some careful planning it is possible to enjoy your trip. Find a reliable company to make the travel arrangements. Many hotels in the midrange and above category have elevators, and disabled access is improving. Bus and train travel is tough, but hire a private vehicle with a driver and almost anywhere becomes instantly accessible.

The hazards for blind travellers in Vietnam are acute, with traffic coming at you from all directions, so you’ll definitely need a sighted companion.

The Travellers With Disabilities forum on Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/travellers-with-disabilities) is a good place to seek the advice of other travellers.

Alternatively, you could try organisations such as Mobility International USA (www.miusa.org), the Royal Association for Disability Rights (www.disabilityrightsuk.org) or the Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (www.sath.org).

VISAS

The (very complicated) visa situation has recently changed for many nationalities, and is fluid – always check the latest regulations.

Firstly, if you are staying more than 15 days and from a Western country, you’ll still need a visa (or approval letter from an agent) in advance. If your visit is less than 15 days, some nationalities are now visa-exempt (for a single visit, not multiple-entry trips).

Tourist visas are valid for either 30 days or 90 days. A single-entry 30-day visa costs US$20, a three-month multiple-entry visa is US$70. Only United States nationals are able to arrange one-year visas.

Until recently there have been two methods of applying for a visa: a Visa on Arrival (VOA) via online visa agents; or via a Vietnamese embassy or consulate. That is changing as e-visas have been rolled out (for a limited number of nationalities).

Visa on Arrival (VOA)

Visa on Arrival (VOA) is the preferred method for most travellers arriving by air, since it’s cheaper, faster and you don’t have to part with your passport by posting it to an embassy. Online visa agencies email the VOA to you directly.

It can only be used if you are flying into any of Vietnam’s six international airports, not at land crossings. The process is straightforward: you fill out an online application form and pay the agency fee (around US$20). You’ll then receive by email a VOA approval letter signed by Vietnamese immigration that you print out and show on arrival, where you pay your visa stamping fee in US dollars, cash only. The single-entry stamping fee is US$25, a multiple-entry stamping fee is US$50.

There are many visa agents, but there are some inefficient cut-priced operators out there. It’s recommended to stick to well-established companies; the following two are professional and efficient:

Vietnam Visa Choice (www.vietnamvisachoice.com) Online support from native English-speakers. This agency also guarantees your visa will be issued within the time specified.

Vietnam Visa Center (www.vietnamvisacenter.org) Competent all-rounder with helpful staff well briefed on the latest visa situation. Offers a two-hour express service for last-minute trips.

Visas via an Embassy or Consulate

You can also obtain visas through Vietnamese embassies and consulates around the world, but fees are normally much higher than using a visa agent and (depending on the country) the process can be slow. In Asia, Vietnamese visas tend to be issued in two to three working days in Cambodia. In Europe and North America it takes around a week.

E-visas

A pilot e-visa program introduced in early 2017 allows visitors to apply for visas online through the Vietnam Immigration Department. Citizens of 40 countries are eligible, including those from the UK and the USA (though not Australians, Canadians or New Zealanders).

E-visas are single-entry only, valid for 30 days (nonextendable), and cost US$25. Processing takes three to five days.

However this e-visa system has not exactly been efficiently implemented. The official website is glitch-prone and often fails to load. We’ve also heard of several cases where applications have gone AWOL and photos rejected for not being picture-perfect.

There have been reports of visitors being deported due to incorrect details (such as wrong date of birth or mispelt names) on the online application form. If you do apply for an e-visa, double-check that all the information you provide is 100% accurate.

E-visas can be applied for online at www.immigration.gov.vn.

Multiple-Entry Visas

It’s possible to enter Cambodia or Laos from Vietnam and then re-enter Vietnam without having to apply for another visa. However, you must hold a multiple-entry visa before you leave Vietnam.

Single-entry visas can no longer be changed to multiple-entry visas inside Vietnam.

Visa Extensions

Tourist visa extensions officially cost as little as US$10, and have to be organised via agents. The procedure takes seven to ten days and you can only extend the visa for 30 (US$40) or 60 (US$60) days depending on the visa you hold.

You can extend your visa in big cities, but if it’s done in a different city from the one you arrived in, it’ll cost you US$50 to $70. In practice, extensions work most smoothly in HCMC, Hanoi, Danang and Hue.

VOLUNTEERING

Opportunities for voluntary work are quite limited in Vietnam.

The NGO Resource Centre (%024-3832 8570; www.ngocentre.org.vn; Room 201, Bldg E3, 6 Dang Van Ngu, Trung Tu Diplomatic Compound, Dong Da, Hanoi) keeps a database of all of the NGOs assisting Vietnam.

WORK

At least 90% of foreign travellers seeking work in Vietnam end up teaching English, though some dive centres and hostels need workers.

8Getting There & Away

Most travellers enter Vietnam by plane or bus, but there are also train links from China and boat connections from Cambodia via the Mekong River.

ENTERING VIETNAM

Formalities at Vietnam’s international airports are generally smoother than at land borders. Crossing the border between Vietnam and Laos can be particularly slow.

Passport

Your passport must be valid for six months upon arrival in Vietnam. Many nationalities have to arrange a visa in advance.

AIR

Airports

There are three main international airports in Vietnam. Phu Quoc also has international flights including Singapore, Bangkok and some charters to Europe. Located 36km south of Nha Trang, Cam Ranh has an expanding range of flights including Hong Kong and Seoul.

Tan Son Nhat International Airport (www.tsnairport.hochiminhcity.gov.vn/vn) For Ho Chi Minh City.

Noi Bai Airport (www.hanoiairportonline.com) Serves the capital, Hanoi.

Danang Airport (www.danangairport.vn/en) International flights to China, South Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, Thailand, Cambodia and Singapore.

BORDER CROSSINGS

Vietnam shares land borders with Cambodia, China and Laos and there are plenty of border crossings open to foreigners with each.

Officials at border crossings occasionally ask for an ‘immigration fee’ of a dollar or two.

Cambodia

Cambodia and Vietnam share a long frontier with seven border crossings. One-month Cambodian visas are issued on arrival at all border crossings for US$30, but overcharging is common at all borders except Bavet.

Cambodian border crossings are officially open daily between 8am and 8pm.

China

There are three main borders where foreigners are permitted to cross between Vietnam and China: Dong Dang–Pingxiang (the Friendship Pass), Lao Cai and Mong Cai.

In most cases it’s necessary to arrange a Chinese visa in advance but some nationalities (including Australians) can get their visas on the Vietnamese side of the Lao Cai–Hekou border.

Time in China is one hour ahead.

Laos

There are seven overland crossings between Vietnam and Laos. Thirty-day Lao visas are available at all borders.

The golden rule is to try to use direct city-to-city bus connections between the countries, as potential hassle will be greatly reduced. If you travel step by step using local buses, expect transport scams (eg serious overcharging) on the Vietnamese side. Devious drivers have even stopped in the middle of nowhere to renegotiate the price.

Transport links on both sides of the border can be hit-and-miss, so don’t use the more remote borders unless you have plenty of time, and patience, to spare.

8Getting Around

AIR

Vietnam has excellent domestic flight connections, with new routes opening up all the time, and very affordable prices (if you book early). Airlines accept bookings on international credit and debit cards. Note, however, that cancellations are quite common. It’s safest not to rely on a flight from a small regional airport to make an international connection the same day – travel a day early if you can. Vietnam Airlines is the least likely to cancel flights.

Jetstar Airways (www.jetstar.com)

Vasco (www.vasco.com.vn)

VietJet Air (www.vietjetair.com)

Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com.vn)

BICYCLE

Bikes are a great way to get around Vietnam, particularly when you get off the main highways.

The main hazard is the traffic, and it’s wise to avoid certain areas (notably Hwy 1). Some of the best cycling is along quiet coastal roads in Central Vietnam, in the Southwest Highlands and up in the northern mountains (although you’ll have to cope with some big hills here). The Mekong Delta is a rewarding option for those who like it flat.

Bicycles can be hired from guesthouses from US$1 per day, while good-quality mountain bikes cost from US$10.

BOAT

In the North, cruises on Halong Bay or Lan Ha Bay area are extremely popular and should not be missed. Hydrofoils also connect Haiphong with Cat Ba Island (near Halong Bay). Day trips by boat to islands off the coast of Nha Trang and to the Chams off Hoi An are also worthwhile.

The extensive network of canals in the Mekong Delta makes getting around by boat feasible. Travellers to Phu Quoc Island can catch ferries from Ha Tien or Rach Gia.

BUS

Vietnam has an extensive network of buses that reach the far-flung corners of the country. Modern buses, operated by myriad companies, run on all the main highways.

Many travellers (perhaps the majority) never actually visit a Vietnamese bus station at all, preferring to stick to the convenient, tourist-friendly open-tour bus network.

Whichever class of bus you’re on, bus travel in Vietnam is never speedy; reckon on just 50km/h on major routes including Hwy 1.

Bus Stations

Many cities have several bus stations – make sure you go to the right one! Bus stations all look chaotic, but many now have ticket offices with official prices and departure times displayed.

Reservations & Costs

Reservations aren’t required for most of the frequent, popular services between towns and cities, but it doesn’t hurt to purchase the ticket the day before. Always buy a ticket from the office, as bus drivers are notorious for overcharging.

On many rural runs foreigners are typically overcharged anywhere from twice to 10 times the going rate. As a benchmark, a typical 100km ride should be between US$2 and US$3.

Bus Types

On most popular routes, modern air-conditioned buses offer comfortable reclining seats, while sleeper buses have flat beds for really long trips.

Deluxe buses are nonsmoking. On the flip side, most of them are equipped with blaring TVs and even karaoke.

Connecting backpacker haunts across the nation, open-tour buses are wildly popular in Vietnam. These air-con buses use convenient, centrally located departure points and allow you to hop on and hop off at any major city along the main north–south route. Prices are reasonable. An open-tour ticket from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi costs from US$35 and US$70; the more stops you add, the higher the price. Sinh Tourist (www.thesinhtourist.vn) has a good reputation, with online seat reservations and comfortable buses.

Local buses in the countryside are slow and stop frequently. Conductors tend to routinely overcharge foreigners on these local services.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Having your own set of wheels gives you maximum flexibility to visit remote regions and stop when and where you please. Car hire always includes a driver. Motorbike hire is good value and this can be self-drive or with a driver.

Driving Licence

Foreigners are now permitted to drive in Vietnam with an International Driving Permit (IDP). This must be combined with local insurance for it to be valid. In reality on the ground virtually no car-hire agency will provide a car to a foreign visitor without including a driver. If you do manage to acquire a car without a driver an IDP is technically required.

Car & Minibus

Hiring a vehicle with a driver is a realistic option (even for budget travellers) if you share the cost.

Costs per day:

Standard model US$80 to US$120

4WD/minibus US$100 to US$130

Motorbike

Motorbikes can be hired from virtually anywhere, including cafes, hotels and travel agencies. Some places will ask to keep your passport until you return the bike. Try to sign some sort of agreement, clearly stating what you are hiring, how much it costs, the extent of compensation and so on.

To tackle the mountains of the north, it is best to get a slightly more powerful model such as a road or trail bike. Plenty of local drivers are willing to act as chauffeur and guide for around US$20 to US$30 per day.

The approximate costs per day without a driver are between US$5 and US$8 for a moped or US$20 and up for trail and road bikes.

Insurance

If you’re travelling in a tourist vehicle with a driver, the car-hire company organises insurance. If you’re using a hired bike, the owners should have some insurance. Many rental places will make you sign a contract agreeing to a valuation for the bike if it is stolen. Use guarded parking where available.

If you’re considering buying a vehicle, try HSBC (www.hsbc.com.vn) for cover.

Travel insurance is essential if you’re planning to travel by motorbike. However, check your policy carefully as some exclude cover for two-wheeled travel. The cost of treating serious injuries can be bankrupting for budget travellers.

Road Conditions & Hazards

Road safety is definitely not one of Vietnam’s strong points. Vehicles drive on the right-hand side (in theory). Size matters and small vehicles get out of the way of big vehicles. Accidents are common.

In general, the major highways are hard-surfaced and reasonably well maintained, but seasonal flooding can be a problem. Unsealed roads are best tackled with a 4WD vehicle or motorbike. Mountain roads are particularly dangerous: landslides, falling rocks and runaway vehicles can add an unwelcome edge to your journey.

LOCAL TRANSPORT

Cyclos

These are bicycle rickshaws. Drivers hang out in touristy areas and some speak broken English. Bargaining is imperative; settle on a fare before going anywhere. A short ride should be 12,000d to 25,000d.

Taxis

Metered taxis are found in all cities and are very, very cheap by international standards and a safe way to travel around at night. Average tariffs are about 12,000d to 15,000d per kilometre. Mai Linh (www.mailinh.vn) and Vinasun (www.vinasuntaxi.com) are two excellent nationwide firms.

App-based taxis (both car and motorbike) including Uber and Grab are available in several Vietnamese cities including HCMC, Hanoi and Danang.

Xe Om

Motorbike taxis are everywhere. Fares should be about half that of a taxi. Drivers usually hang around street corners, markets, hotels and bus stations. To avoid overcharging, it’s a good idea to use Uber or Grab in HCMC, Hanoi and Danang.

TOURS

These Vietnam-based travel agencies offer great tours:

Buffalo Tours (www.buffalotours.com) Offers diverse and customised trips.

Handspan Travel Indochina (www.handspan.com) A wide range of innovative, interesting tours to seldom-visited regions.

Ocean Tours (www.oceantours.com.vn) Heads to Ba Be National Park and has a great Thousand Island tour of Halong Bay.

TRAIN

Operated by national carrier, Vietnam Railways (www.vr.com.vn), the Vietnamese railway system is an ageing but pretty dependable service, and offers a relaxing way to get around the nation. Travelling in an air-conditoned sleeping berth sure beats a hairy overnight bus journey along Hwy 1. And, of course, there’s some spectacular scenery to lap up, too.

Routes

Aside from the main HCMC–Hanoi run, three rail-spur lines link Hanoi with the other parts of northern Vietnam: one runs east to the port city of Haiphong; a second heads northeast to Lang Son and continues across the border to Nanning, China; a third runs northwest to Lao Cai (for trains on to Kunming, China).

‘Fast’ trains between Hanoi and HCMC take between 32 and 35 hours.

Classes & Costs

Trains classified as SE are the smartest and fastest. There are four main ticket classes: hard seat, soft seat, hard sleeper and soft sleeper. These classes are further split according to whether or not they have air-conditioning. Presently, air-con is only available on the faster express trains. Some SE trains now have wi-fi (though connection speeds, like Vietnamese trains, are not the quickest).

Hard-seat class is usually packed. It’s tolerable for day travel, but expect plenty of cigarette smoke.

Ticket prices vary depending on the train; the fastest trains are the most expensive.

Reservations

You can can buy tickets in advance from the Vietnam Railways bookings site (http://dsvn.vn); however, at the time of writing only Vietnamese credit cards were accepted. You can also book online using the travel agency Bao Lau (www.baolau.vn), which has an efficient website, details seat and sleeper-berth availability, and accepts international cards. E-tickets are emailed to you; there’s a 40,000d commission per ticket.

You can reserve seats/berths on long trips 60 to 90 days in advance (less on shorter trips). Most of the time you can book train tickets a day or two ahead without a problem, except during peak holiday times. For sleeping berths book a week or more before the date of departure.

Schedules, fares, information and advance bookings are available on Bao Lau’s website. Vietnam Impressive (www.vietnamimpressive.com) is another dependable online agent; it charges US$2 per ticket.

Many travel agencies, hotels and cafes will also buy you train tickets for a small commission.