South Coast
Cambodia’s south coast is an alluring mix of clear blue water, castaway islands, pristine mangrove forests, time-worn colonial towns and jungle-clad mountains, where bears and elephants lurk. Adventurers will find this region of Cambodia just as rewarding as sunseekers do.
Koh Kong City ក្រុងកោះកុង
%035 / Pop 36,053
Once Cambodia’s Wild West, its frontier economy dominated by smuggling, prostitution and gambling, the city of Koh Kong, eponymous capital of the province, is striding towards respectability as ecotourists scare the sleaze away.
1Sights & Activities
Koh Kong’s main draw is for those seeking adventure in and around the Cardamom Mountains and the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor.
Peam Krasaop Wildlife SanctuaryNATURE RESERVE
(ដែនជំរកសត្វព្រៃពាមក្រសោប; 5000r; 
h6am-6pm)
Anchored to alluvial islands – some no larger than a house – this 260-sq-km sanctuary’s magnificent mangroves protect the coast from erosion, offer vital breeding and feeding grounds for fish, shrimp and shellfish, and are home to myriad birds.
TTours
Boat tours are an excellent way to view Koh Kong’s many coastal attractions. English-speaking Teur (%016 278668) hangs around the boat dock and can help you hire six-passenger (40-horsepower) and three-passenger (15-horsepower) outboards (speedboats). Destinations include Koh Kong Island’s western beaches (big/small boats US$80/50), around Koh Kong Island (US$120/90) and Peam Krasaop Mangrove Sanctuary (US$40/30).
Ritthy Koh Kong Eco Adventure ToursADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 707719; www.kohkongecoadventure.com; St 1; h8am-9pm)
A one-stop shop for all your tour needs in Koh Kong, this is the longest-running ecotourism operator in town. Ritthy’s excursions include excellent Koh Kong Island boat tours, birdwatching, and multiday jungle trekking and camping in the Areng Valley within the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor. Check the website for pricing.
4Sleeping
Some places pay moto drivers a commission, leading to a whole lot of shenanigans.
Ritthy’s RetreatGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %097 555 2789; ritthy.info@gmail.com; St 1; dm US$4, r US$6-15; 
a
W)
Long-time tour operator Ritthy has opened a welcoming guesthouse and restaurant on the riverfront. It features spacious en-suite dorms with double-wide beds and a nice variety of roomy doubles. The fancier air-con rooms upstairs have semi-private balconies with river views, while the downstairs bar-restaurant, with a pool table, is a top hang-out.
Koh Kong City HotelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %035-936777; St 1; r US$15-20; a
iW)
Ludicrous value for what you get: each squeaky-clean room includes a huge bathroom, two double beds, 50 TV channels, a full complement of toiletries, free water and – in the US$20 rooms – a river view. Friendly staff top off the experience.
oOasis Bungalow ResortBUNGALOW$$
(%092 228342; http://oasisresort.netkhmer.com; d/tr US$35/40; aW
s)
Surrounded by lush forest, 2km north of Koh Kong centre, Oasis really lives up to its name. Five large, airy bungalows set around a gorgeous infinity pool with views of the Cardamom Mountains provide a tranquil base in which to chill out and reset your travel batteries. To get here, follow the blue signs from Acleda Bank (St 3).
5Eating & Drinking
oHappy BeachCAMBODIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %097 744 4454; mains US$2-5; h24hr)
Northeast of town, this place offers a unique slice of Cambodian life with seaside, covered decks on stilts where families and friends laze about with their shoes off, taking down heaping portions of Khmer food served off a wooden block on the ground.
Crab ShackSEAFOOD$
(%081 447093; Koh Yor Beach; mains US$4-8; hhours vary)
A family-run place over the bridge on Koh Yor Beach, this spot is known for perfect sunsets and heaping portions of fried crab with pepper (on request). If Crab Shack isn’t open, the neighbouring restaurant also serves delicious crab and coconut water in little beach huts strung with hammocks.
Café LaurentINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %088 829 0410; St 1; mains US$4-15; h10.30am-9.30pm Wed-Mon; W)
This chic waterfront cafe and restaurant offers atmospheric dining in over-water pavilions where you can sit back and watch the sunset while feasting on refined Western and Khmer cuisine. As well as French-accented steaks and a decent pasta menu, there’s a huge range of fresh seafood and Asian classics, all served with fine-dining panache.
8Information
Guesthouses, hotels and pubs are the best places to get the local low-down. You can also look for the free Koh Kong Visitors Guide (www.koh-kong.com), which is mostly advertisements.
Canadia Bank (St 1; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)
8Getting There & Around
Most buses drop passengers at Koh Kong’s unpaved bus station (St 12), on the northeast edge of town, where motos and remorks await, eager to overcharge tourists. Don’t pay more than US$1/2 for the three-minute moto/remork ride into the centre. From the taxi lot next to the bus station, share taxis head to Phnom Penh (US$11, five hours) and occasionally to Sihanoukville (US$10, four hours).
Virak Buntham (%089 998760; St 3) Virak Buntham offers bus (US$8, six hours, 7.45am) and minivan (US$12, five hours, two daily) services to Phnom Penh, and an 8am direct bus to Sihanoukville (US$8, five hours). Services to Kampot (US$11, 8am) and to Bangkok (US$20, 1pm) via Ko Chang (US$15 including boat to island) involve a bus change.
Ritthy Koh Kong Eco Adventure Tours rents out bicycles for half-/full day US$1/2, as well as motorbikes.
Koh Kong Conservation Corridor
Stretching along both sides of NH48 from Koh Kong to the Gulf of Kompong Som, the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor encompasses many of Cambodia’s most outstanding natural sites, including the most extensive mangrove forests on mainland Southeast Asia and the southern reaches of the fabled Cardamom Mountains, an area of breathtaking beauty and astonishing biodiversity.
The next few years will be critical in determining the future of the Cardamom Mountains. NGOs such as Conservation International (www.conservation.org), Fauna & Flora International (www.fauna-flora.org) and Wildlife Alliance (www.wildlifealliance.org) are working to help protect the region’s 16 distinct ecosystems from loggers and poachers. Ecotourism is playing a huge role in their plans – Wildlife Alliance is promoting several enticing projects in the Southern Cardamoms Protected Forest (1443 sq km).
Tatai Waterfall
Tatai WaterfallWATERFALL
(ទឹកធ្លាក់តាតៃ; US$1)
Tatai Waterfall is a thundering set of rapids during the wet season, plunging over a 4m rock shelf. Water levels drop in the dry season, but you can swim year-round in the surrounding refreshing pools. The water is fairly pure as it comes down from the isolated high Cardamom Mountains. Access to the waterfall is by car or motorbike. The clearly marked turn-off is on NH48 about 15km southeast of Koh Kong, or 2.8km northwest of the Tatai Bridge.
From the highway it’s about 2km to the falls along a rough access road. There’s a stream crossing about halfway – at the height of the wet season you may have to cross it on foot and walk the last kilometre. From Koh Kong, a half-day moto/remork excursion to Tatai Waterfall costs US$10/15 return, or less to go one way to the bridge.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
KOH KONG ISLAND
Cambodia’s largest island towers over seas so crystal-clear you can make out individual grains of sand in a couple of metres of water. At the sixth beach from the north, a narrow channel leads to a Gilligan’s Island–style lagoon. A strong military presence on the island means access is tightly controlled. You must visit on a guided boat tour out of Koh Kong or Tatai. These cost US$21 per person, including lunch and snorkelling equipment, or US$55 for overnight trips with beach camping or homestay accommodation. The island is only accessible from October to May.
Sihanoukville ក្រុងព្រះសីហនុ
%034 / Pop 91,000
Sure, Sihanoukville would never win first prize in a pretty-town competition, and much of it is now dominated by casinos and tacky commercial centres. But despite the rapid and mostly unwanted development, it has remained the jumping-off point for the best of Cambodia’s white-sand beaches and castaway-cool southern islands. The Serendipity Beach area is a decompression chamber for backpackers, who flock here to rest up between travels and party through the night.
Away from the hustle south of town is relaxed Otres Beach, where cheap bungalow joints and bohemian-flavoured guesthouses are now neighbours with rather swish boutique resorts. Although much of the beachfront will likely be cleared for large-scale development in the future, for now the mellow scene still allows for lazy days of sunbathing and whirlwind nights of bar-hopping.
1Sights & Activities
Coastal Ream National Park, 15km east of Sihanoukville, offers invigorating boat trips through coastal mangroves and long stretches of unspoiled beach, not to mention trekking in primary forest.
Beaches
Sihanoukville’s beaches all have wildly different characters, offering something for just about everyone. Most central is Occheuteal Beach, lined with ramshackle restaurants, whose northwestern end – a tiny, rocky strip – has emerged as a happy, easygoing travellers’ hang-out known as Serendipity Beach.
South of Occheuteal Beach, beyond a small headland, lies Otres Beach, lined with dozens of bungalow-style restaurants and resorts. Otres has cleaner water and is more relaxed than anything in Sihanoukville proper, and is lengthy enough that finding your own patch of private sand is not a challenge…just walk south. Otres Beach is about 5km south of the Serendipity area. It’s a US$2/5 moto/remork ride to get here (more at night).
One beach north of Serendipity lies Sihanoukville’s prettiest beach, 1.5km-long Sokha Beach. Its fine, silicon-like sand squeaks loudly underfoot. The tiny eastern end of Sokha Beach is open to the public and rarely crowded. The rest is part of the exclusive Sokha Beach Resort.
Moving north from Sokha Beach, you’ll hit Independence Beach near the classic Independence Hotel, most of which has been taken over by a huge new development, and the original backpacker beach, Victory Beach, not the best beach in town due to the looming backdrop of the Sihanoukville Port development.
Diving
The diving near Sihanoukville isn’t Southeast Asia’s finest. It gets better the further out you go, although you still shouldn’t expect anything on a par with the western Gulf of Thailand or the Andaman Sea. Most serious trips will hit Koh Rong Sanloem, while overnight trips target the distant islands of Koh Tang and Koh Prins. Overnight trips cost about US$100 per day including two daily dives, food, accommodation on an island, and equipment. Two-tank dives out of Sihanoukville average US$80 including equipment. PADI open-water courses average about US$400 to US$450, pretty competitive by world standards.
Scuba NationDIVING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 604680; www.divecambodia.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; 2-dive package US$85, PADI Open Water Diver course US$445; h9am-8pm)
The longest-running dive operator in Sihanoukville, Scuba Nation is a PADI five-star IDC (instructor development centre) with a comfortable boat for day and live-aboard trips.
Dive ShopDIVING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %097 723 2626, 034-933664; www.diveshopcambodia.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; PADI Discover Scuba course US$95, 2-dive package US$80; h7am-9pm)
A PADI five-star dive centre offering the full gamut of PADI courses, as well as fun dives, out of its bases at Sunset Beach (high season) and Saracen Bay (low season) on Koh Rong Sanloem. Also runs snorkelling tours.
Massage
NGO-trained blind and disabled masseurs deftly ease away the tension at Seeing Hands Massage 3 (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %034-679 2555; 95 Ekareach St; per hr US$6; h8am-9pm) 
S and Starfish Bakery & Café.
C Courses
Don Bosco Hotel Khmer Cooking CourseCOOKING
(%016 919834; www.donboscohotelschool.com/cooking; Ou Phram St, Don Bosco Hotel School; per person US$30) S
The cooking classes here provide a great opportunity to learn some Khmer culinary skills. They include a slap-up three-course lunch (which you’ve helped create), as well as a tour of the hotel school. Classes run from 8.30am to 1.30pm every weekday and start with a market trip, but guests can also join at 10am after the market (for US$5 less).
TTours
Popular day tours go to some of the closer islands and to Ream National Park. Booze cruises are popular.
Party BoatBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %034-666 6106; Serendipity Beach Pier; per person US$25)
The daily cruise (9.30am to 5pm) to Koh Rong Sanloem includes snacks, lunch, snorkelling and a free drink. This outfit also runs return transport to Koh Rong Island’s full-moon parties, leaving Sihanoukville at 5pm and returning around 8am.
SuntoursBOATING
(%096 379 4133; per adult/child US$25/12.50; hdeparts at 10am, back at 5pm)
Suntours offers island cruises aboard a motor yacht, with day trips to Koh Rong Sanloam that get rave reviews. Trips include snacks, buffet lunch, coffee and tea, as well as snorkelling, kayaking and fishing equipment. Pick-up points vary.
CHI PHAT
Once notorious for land-grabbing, illegal logging and poaching, the river village of Chi Phat (www.chi-phat.org) is now home to a popular community-based ecotourism project (CBET) launched by Wildlife Alliance (www.wildlifealliance.org) to transform the Southern Cardamoms Protected Forest (1443 sq km), into a source of jobs and income for local people.
Chi Phat offers travellers an opportunity to explore the Cardamoms ecosystems while contributing to their conservation and providing an alternative livelihood to the former poachers who now act as the landscape’s protectors and guides. Accommodation is in basic homestays and guesthouses, and there’s a menu of activities on offer, from birdwatching kayak trips to combo hike-and-mountain-bike expeditions.
All activities in Chi Phat are controlled through CBET Community Visitor Centre (%035-675 6444, 092 720925; www.chi-phat.org; Chi Phat; h7am-7pm) S, a two-minute walk from the river pier, although there’s not a lot of English spoken. All tours must be booked at the visitor centre by 5pm the day before. Prices for tours range from US$25 to US$35 per person including lunch, transport and equipment.
Chi Phat only has limited electricity and there is no bank or ATM, although there is a credit-card machine.
Chi Phat is on the scenic Preak Piphot River, 21km upriver from Andoung Tuek, which is on NH48, 98km from Koh Kong. All buses travelling between Koh Kong and Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville pass through here. A longtail boat (US$30) makes the two-hour trip from Andoung Tuek when reserved in advance and is the most atmospheric option. A moto is faster (45 minutes; 17km) and costs US$7. Travelling from Chi Phat, a boat or moto can be booked the night before to return to Andoung Tuek in the morning, in time to catch onward buses.
4Sleeping
Most backpackers shoot for the Serendipity area if they want to party, or Otres Beach if they want to chill. Other decent options exist in the town centre (for those who want to escape tourists) and on long-running Victory Hill, a former backpacker ghetto that is now one of Sihanoukville’s sleazier strips. There are popular bungalow resorts popping up all over the islands off Sihanoukville.
4Serendipity & Occheuteal
The road to Serendipity is the main backpacker hang-out, while down the hill tiny Serendipity Beach offers a string of mellow midrange resorts perched over the rocky shoreline.
oChochi GardenGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %096 274 7674; chochiguesthouse@gmail.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; r with fan/air-con US$15/25; 
naW)
Run by a friendly expat couple, this boutique backpacker pad is the closest Serendipity gets to a tranquil oasis right in the heart of the action. Out front is a cool bar-restaurant while simple rooms, some with palm-thatch roofs and pretty painted window-grills, are in a plant-filled garden strewn with comfy seating areas.
Onederz HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %096 339 0005; onestophostelsshv@gmail.com; Golden Lions Roundabout; dm US$8; aiWs)
The six- and eight-bed dorms here are decked out in lashings of white-on-white and centred on a floor-to-ceiling glassed courtyard with a small pool, proving slick styling doesn’t have to cost the earth. The 68 beds have individual reading lamps and luggage lock-boxes, and all dorms are air-conditioned. One quibble is that the bottom bunks are basically on the floor.
Big EasyHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %081 943930; Serendipity Beach Rd; dm US$4, r US$8-10; W)
This classic backpacker joint offers accommodation, comfort food and a lively rock bar, all rolled into one. The dorms are basic but have some amenities: air-con, hot water, privacy curtains and plentiful power outlets. Still, you’ll most likely spend your time in the bar. There’s a great vibe with occasional live music, live English Premier League games and beer pong.
4Otres Beach
Most guesthouses are in a cluster about 1km south of Queen Hill Resort, an area known as Otres 1. About 2.5km of empty beach separates this cluster from a smaller, more isolated colony of resorts at the far southern end of the beach, known as Otres 2. Further inland on a creek is funky Otres Village.
oWish You Were HereHOSTEL$
(%097 241 5884; Otres 1; dm from US$6, r without bathroom US$12-16, r with bathroom US$20; W)
This rickety wooden building is one of the hippest hang-outs in Otres. Rooms are simple but the upstairs balcony and sunset deck encourage serious sloth-time, while the bar-restaurant downstairs has a great vibe thanks to chilled-out tunes and friendly staff.
FootprintsHOSTEL$
(%097 262 1598; footprintotres@gmail.com; dm US$5, bungalows US$25)
This homey, two-story hostel in Otres Beach is a charmer. Rooms are fan-cooled and sprawled around a garden and restaurant just a few steps from the beach.
Otres OrchidBUNGALOW$
(%034-633 8484; www.otresorchid.com; Otres 1; bungalows with fan/air-con US$20/35; aW)
Cracking value, the Orchid offers simple bungalows at sensible prices in a garden setting a hop, skip and jump to the beach. The fan-only bungalows have more character than the air-con options and come with hammock-strung balconies.
Jumanji HostelHOSTEL$
(%096 490 2711; Otres Village; dm US$3-6, r US$10-20)
This hostel and sports bar opened in Otres Village in 2017 and quickly began drawing night time action, particularly on Mondays, with live sports and bar games. It offers a variety of accommodation at different price points (with bathrooms and without, with air-conditioning and without).
5Eating
Sihanoukville’s centre of culinary gravity is the Serendipity area.
Starfish Bakery & CafeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 952011; www.starfishcambodia.org; off 7 Makara St; sandwiches US$3.50-4.75; h7am-5.30pm; W
v) S
This relaxing, NGO-run garden cafe specialises in filling Western breakfasts, baked cakes and tarts, and healthy, innovative sandwiches heavy on Mexican and Middle Eastern flavours. Sitting down for coffee here on the shady terrace is a peaceful reprieve from Sihanoukville’s hustle. Income goes to sustainable development projects.
Cabbage RestaurantCAMBODIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Chamka Spai; mains 8000-15,000r; h11am-10pm)
Known to locals as Chamka Spai, this restaurant gets rave reviews for its seafood and spicy seasonings. An authentic Khmer dining experience. A sign in English on Sereypheap St points the way, but look out for nearby, imposter restaurants with the same name.
Espresso KampucheaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Boray Kamakor St; mains US$2-4; h8am-10pm)
Serious caffeine aficionados should definitely make the trip down a nondescript side street in Sihanoukville centre to get to Espresso Kampuchea. The owner, Sophal, personally sources her coffee from Thailand and serves up excellent double-shot cappuccinos and espresso. There’s a small menu of baguettes, fried noodles and other breakfasts – and draught beer for US$0.75.
Gelato ItalianoICE CREAM$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; St 109; mains US$2-5, gelati US$1; h7.30am-9pm; W) S
Run by students from Don Bosco Hotel School, this cafe specialises in gelato (Italian-style ice cream) but offers so much more, including coffee, pizza and full-blown Asian-fusion meals in a bright, airy space. Wonderful value.
Mushroom Point BeachINTERNATIONAL$$
(Otres 1; mains $3.50-12; h8am-10pm)
Mushroom Point’s breakfasts, featuring homemade baguettes with mango jam and homemade muesli, are a winner. The barbecued seafood and Italian plates that come out later in the day get plaudits from travellers, too. There’s an excellent wine list to boot.
oChez PaouINTERNATIONAL$$
(Otres 1; mains US$5-22; h8am-11pm; W)
This is fine dining Otres style: right on the beach. The menu contains a good selection of steaks, pasta and burgers, but it’s the Khmer specials (order in advance) – stingray cooked on embers with fresh Kampot pepper, prawns flambéed in pastis, and crabs cooked two different ways – that make this place really stand out.
oAmareinaITALIAN$$
(%070 900306; pizzas US$6-8)
This Italian restaurant and guesthouse has quickly gained a reputation for the best party pool in town, which is free for nonguests as well, and its pizzas and pastas are divine. There’s also a small but decent selection of wine and the best carpaccio in Otres Beach.
oManohaFRENCH$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %034-657 2666; www.facebook.com/pg/restaurant.manoha; mains from US$5; h24hr)
At this charming but modest-looking place on Serendipity Rd, the French and Khmer menu is enormous – with 130 dishes, to be exact. And whether it’s a sandwich, a salad, an omelette, some frogs’ legs or even barracuda carpaccio you’re after, this place will nail it. And it’s always open.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The party tends to start up on the road to Serendipity before heading downhill (literally and figuratively) to the all-night beach discos along Occheuteal Beach. A few long-standing regular bars remain amid the hostess bars of Victory Hill, but the overall impression is Sinville rather than the more relaxed beach vibe of Sihanoukville.
Some of the guesthouses have lively bars, including Monkey Republic, the Big Easy and Wish You Were Here.
Maybe LaterBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Serendipity Beach Rd; h11am-11pm)
This popular little Mexican taco restaurant that doubles as a bar serves top-notch margaritas and some refined tequilas for those who prefer sips to shots. It’s a civilised escape from the beachside party scene.
La RhumerieBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Serendipity Beach Rd; h9am-2am)
Pull up a bar stool at La Rhumerie for salsa music and yummy rum infused with ingredients such as Kampot pepper, ginger and coffee. The rum selection hails from 17 countries and pairs well with many of the food items on the menu, including barbecue. Not a rum fan? The bar also whips up mean cocktails, such as a spicy mango margarita.
Last Hippie StandingBAR
(Otres Corner; %097 579 5329; Otres 1; h24hr)
The first place you’ll see when you enter the Otres area and, often, the last place you’ll have been seen on particularly rowdy nights. DJs play dance and trance music ‘til the wee hours and the owners offer basic, US$10 accommodation to guests who decide they never want to leave.
JJ’s PlaygroundBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Ochheuteal Beach; h6pm-6am)
The go-to spot for those seeking late-night debauchery. The scene here is pretty much summed up by JJ’s slogan: ‘Let’s get wasted’. Expect shots, loud techno music, a fire show or two, and a lot of chaos. And don’t say we didn’t warn you about the toilets.
SPLURGE
Ropanha Boutique Hotel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 556654; www.ropanha-boutiquehotel.com; 23 Tola St; r incl breakfast US$45-55; aWs) is the pick of the pack when it comes to affordable atmosphere in the Serendipity area. Set around a lush courtyard garden and pool, Ropanha’s rooms include flat-screen TVs and accompanying DVD players, plus rain showers in the bathrooms. Deluxe rooms have pool views but all have lashings of white and are exceptionally well cared for.
7Shopping
TapangARTS & CRAFTS
(www.mloptapang.org; Otres 2; h11am-9pm) S
Run by a local NGO that works with at-risk children, this shop sells good-quality bags, scarves and T-shirts made by street kids (and their families) so that they can attend school instead of peddling on the beach. Tapang has another outlet at Sandan (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %034-452 4000; 2 Thnou St; mains US$4-10; h11.30am-11pm; W
c) S restaurant.
8Information
Internet cafes (per hour 4000r) are sprinkled along the road to Serendipity and, in the city centre, along Ekareach St near Sopheakmongkol St.
Theft is a problem, especially on Occheuteal Beach, so leave your valuables in your room. As in Phnom Penh, drive-by bag-snatchings occasionally happen and are especially dangerous when you’re riding a moto. Hold your shoulder bags tightly in front of you. At night, both men and women should avoid walking alone along dark, isolated beaches and roads.
Ana Travel (MAP; %034-933929; Serendipity Beach Rd; h8.30am-8.30pm) Organises buses to Ha Tien (Vietnam) via Kampot and Kep, and also does the usual tours and visas.
ANZ Royal Bank (MAP; 215 Ekareach St; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)
Canadia Bank (MAP; 197 Ekareach St; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)
CT Polyclinic (MAP; %034-936666, 081 886666; 47 Boray Kamakor St; hemergency 24hr) The best medical clinic in town. Can administer rabies shots, and antivenin in the event of a snake bite.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
There are now several flights daily between Sihanoukville and Siem Reap, so it is usually possible to hop to temple town at short notice. The airport is 15km east of town, just off the NH4. Figure on US$5/10 for a one-way moto/remork.
Cambodia Angkor Air (%in Phnom Penh 023 666 6786; www.cambodiaangkorair.com) Has one daily direct flight from Sihanoukville Airport to Siem Reap.
BUS
All of the major bus companies have frequent connections with Phnom Penh (US$5 to US$11, four to five hours) from early morning until at least 2pm, after which trips are sporadic.
Virak Buntham has morning buses to Bangkok (US$28, change buses on the Thai side) via Koh Kong (US$8, four hours). GST and Virak Buntham have night buses to Siem Reap (US$13 to US$17).
Most bus departures originate at the company terminals on Ekareach St and stop at the bus station (MAP; St 109) on the way out of town. The main bus companies:
Capitol Tour (MAP; %034-934042; 169 Ekareach St)
Champa Mekong Tourist Bus (MAP; %069 698282; Mithona St) Departures to Ha Tien, Vietnam (US$13, 3½ hours), via Kampot (US$5) and Kep (US$7) at 8am, 11am, 1.30pm and 3.30pm.
Giant Ibis (MAP; %023 999333; www.giantibis.com; Thnou St) Luxury buses to Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Ho Chi Minh City and Bangkok.
Mekong Express (MAP; %010 833329; Omui St)
Phnom Penh Sorya (MAP; %034-933888; 236 Ekareach St)
Virak Buntham (MAP; %016 754358; Ekareach St)
SHARE TAXI
Cramped share taxis (US$6 per person, US$45 per car) to Phnom Penh depart from the new bus station until about 8pm. Share taxis to Kampot (US$5, 1½ hours) leave mornings only from an open lot on 7 Makara St, across from Psar Leu. This lot and the new bus station are good places to look for rides to Koh Kong or the Thai border (US$45 to US$60 to charter).
8Getting Around
Arriving in Sihanoukville, most buses terminate at the bus station and do not continue to their central terminals. Prices to the Serendipity Beach area from the bus station are fixed at a pricey US$2/6 for a moto/remork. You can do better by walking out to the street.
A moto/remork should cost about US$1/2 from the city centre to Serendipity, but overcharging is rife.
Motorbikes can be rented from many guesthouses for US$5 to US$7 a day. For fundraising purposes, the police sometimes ‘crack down’ on foreign drivers. Common violations: no driving licence, no helmet, or driving with the lights on during the day.
Bicycles can be hired from many guesthouses for about US$2 a day, or try Eco-Trek Tours for mountain bikes.
Southern Islands
Cambodia’s southern islands are the tropical Shangri-La many travellers have been seeking – as yet untouched by the mega-resorts that have sprouted across southern Thailand. Many of the islands have been tagged for major development by well-connected foreign investors, but the big boys have been slow to press go, paving the way for DIY development to move in with rustic bungalow resorts.
Koh Rong, in particular, has changed dramatically in the past couple of years due to unchecked construction in the Koh Tuch area. But for the most part, Cambodia’s islands are still paradise the way you imagined it: endless crescents of powdered-sugary-soft sand, hammocks swaying in the breeze, photogenic fishing villages on stilts and technicolour sunsets. It seems too good to last, so enjoy it while it does.
8Getting There & Away
The logical jumping-off point for the most popular islands is Sihanoukville. Scheduled boat services link Sihanoukville with Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem. Other islands are reached by private boats, usually owned by the resort you’re visiting.
Koh Rong & Koh Rong Sanloem កោះរ៉ុង កោះរ៉ុងសន្លឹម
These deceptively large neighbouring islands are the rapidly emerging pearls of the South Coast. They boast isolated white-sand beaches and heavily forested interiors populated by an incredible variety of wildlife.
The epicentre of the action is rapidly developing Koh Tuch Beach on Koh Rong’s southeastern corner, which hosts a fabled full-moon party once a month. If you want to hang out with fellow travellers, hit an all-night rave and crash out on the sand during the day, Koh Rong’s the spot. Those looking for a more relaxed vibe would be wise to pick a bungalow-resort well away from Koh Tuch village (on lovely Long Beach or the even-less-imaginatively named 4km Beach) or head to Koh Rong Sanloem.
However, be aware that security can be an issue on Koh Rong, with incidents of theft and occasional attacks on female tourists in remote parts of the island, so do not go walking in the jungle interior alone.
Koh Rong Sanloem is also taking off. Several colonies of bungalows have sprung up on Saracen Bay on the east coast, and more isolated options exist elsewhere on the island. Those looking for an alternative island experience can head to the village of M’Pai Bay at the island’s northern tip, which has an authentic local vibe that will suit the more intrepid.
Most island resorts run their generators from about 6pm to 10.30pm.
2Activities
oAdventure AdamBOATING
(%010 354002; www.facebook.com/AdventureAdamTours; Koh Rong) S
If lazing about by day and partying all night on Koh Rong seems like a missed opportunity to, you know, actually experience the island, consider booking a trip with Adventure Adam. His day and overnight tours around Koh Rong include stops at fishing villages, remote beaches and deep jungle and earn high marks for cultural immersion and adventure.
High Point Rope AdventureADVENTURE SPORTS
(%016 839993; www.high-point.asia; Koh Tuch village; per person US$35; h9am-6pm)
A collection of ziplines, swing bridges and walking cables takes thrill-seekers on an adrenaline-packed, 400m-long journey through the forest canopy, not far from Koh Tuch. Your ticket gets you unlimited access to the course for the entire day. From April to October, tickets are US$5 cheaper.
Koh Rong Dive CentreDIVING
(%096 560 7362; www.kohrongdivecenter.com; Koh Rong pier; h9am-6pm)
Koh Rong’s main dive centre organises trips in the waters around Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem and a few other islands nearby. Also offers boat trips to other islands, snorkelling excursions and diving courses.
8Information
Bring all the cash you think you’ll need with you as there are no banks or ATMs on Koh Rong, or any of the other southern islands. If you do run out of money, some guesthouses offer money-lending services for a 10% fee.
Wi-fi is still largely elusive (and when available, sporadic) on Koh Rong Samloem.
Emergency Services Centre (%whatsapp 1-912-663-1640; Koh Tuch Beach; hwalk-in 9.30am-4pm, emergency 24hr) is the best medical facility on Koh Rong.
8Getting There & Away
Several companies – including Island Speed Ferry Cambodia (TBC Speed Boat; %069 811711; www.islandspeedboatcambodia.com), Speed Ferry Cambodia (www.speedferrycambodia.com), Buva Sea (%015 888970; www.buvasea.com) and GTVC Speedboat (www.gtvcspeedboat.com) – operate ferries and catamarans that transport people from Koh Rong Sanloem’s Saracen Bay and M’Pai Bay to Koh Rong and Sihanoukville. Note that schedule changes, unpredictable delays and cancellations are common, meaning you’ll need to check up on the details of your ferry directly with the company.
Tickets cost around US$20 return between Koh Rong and Sihanoukville. Hopping to Koh Rong Sanloem costs US$5.
Tickets for boats can be purchased from most guesthouses and travel agencies, or booked online via www.bookmebus.com. Transport to more remote resorts and beaches on Koh Rong is by day-trip boats or on private boats owned by resorts.
Koh Rong
oNestHOSTEL$
(dm US$10; aW)
On the southern end of Long Set Beach is this new flashpacker crash pad, and it’s a step up from anything you’ll find in Koh Tuch. The well-designed dorms feature private bunks divided by walls and curtains, and the restaurant has a stunner of an open-air, oceanfront terrace with delicious Khmer battered chicken, vegie wraps and sweet-potato chips.
Suns of BeachesGUESTHOUSE$
(%010 550355; Vietnamese Beach; dm US$5, r US$10-20)
On a glorious private beach a little north of Long Set Beach, this newer expat-owned hostel is for shoestringers who are into serious chilling. The huge and airy fan-cooled dorms are things of beauty, while a well-stocked bar means you won’t go thirsty. Hammocks are everywhere and the beach is just wow. This is backpacker bliss.
Monkey IslandBUNGALOW$$
(%081 830992; www.monkeyisland-kohrong.com; Koh Tuch Beach; dm from US$5, bungalows US$25-40; W)
Linked to the popular Monkey Republic (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 490290; www.monkeyrepublic.info; Serendipity Beach Rd; dm US$6, r with fan US$15-22, with air-con US$18-30; aiWs) in Sihanoukville, Monkey Island’s action revolves around its bamboo-and-thatch bar, which is always jam-packed with backpackers. Some of the basic bungalows can fit up to five people at a squeeze and come with hammocks on the porches; the cheapest ones share bathrooms.
Koh LantaINTERNATIONAL$
(Koh Tuch; mains US$3-6; h24hr)
Named after the famous French version of Survivor, which is filmed on Koh Rong, this place offers some of the best pizzas on the island.
Dragon Den PubPUB
(Koh Tuch; h9am-late)
In addition to a convivial atmosphere nourished by proprietor Jay, the Dragon Den serves excellent craft beer from Sihanoukville’s Five Men Microbrewery – and it’s a good deal at US$1.50 to US$2.50 a glass. There are rooms (from US$10) upstairs if stumbling somewhere else seems too hard.
KOH RONG SANLOEM
Dragonfly GuesthouseHOSTEL$
(%069 493914; dm US$7, r US$15, bungalows US$25)
This chilled-out spot in M’Pai Bay operates at a languid pace, with a scenic check-in area and papasan chairs overlooking the frothy sea. Accommodation is airy and clean, and restaurant and bar are beloved for wine and cheeseboards. Live music and movie nights are hosted frequently.
oHuba-HubaHOSTEL$$
(%088 554 5619; www.huba-huba-cambodia.com; Sunset Beach; dm US$7-8, bungalows US$30-60)
Perched on secluded Sunset Beach and flanked by the jungle, this small collection of thatched-roof bungalows and glistening hardwood common spaces looks like an island fantasy land. During high season, a beach restaurant with a bar constructed from the bow of a boat serves up cold beers, wine, cocktails and barbecue, and everybody goes snorkelling on a nearby reef.
oMad Monkey Island ResortHOSTEL$$
(%016 762654; www.madmonkeyhostels.com; dm US$9-10, bungalows US$40; W)
The latest addition to the Mad Monkey hostel empire wins big with its secluded private cove and beaches to the north of Saracen Bay. Dorms of varying size and private bungalows are oceanfront, simple and fan-cooled, and the atmosphere is laid-back and convivial. A big, open-air bar and restaurant overlooks the sea, where people laze about in hammocks all day.
Fishing HookINTERNATIONAL$
(M’Pai Bay; mains US$1.25; h8am-9pm)
Some of the finest food on Koh Rong Sanloem is being served up at a food stall near M’Pai Bay pier. The menu waltzes from Khmer-influenced curries to chilli onion rings to more global offerings. Keep an eye out for a bigger and better Fishing Hook up the hill from Dragonfly Guesthouse.
Tree BarBAR
(Saracen Bay; h10am-late; W)
Travellers regularly perch at this locally owned tiki bar until late into the night, playing drinking games and sizing up who might be interested in a skinny-dip in the plankton. There’s also a sign for free Khmer lessons here.
Other Islands
Closer to Sihanoukville, Koh Ta Kiev and Koh Russei appear on most island-hopping itineraries out of Sihanoukville, with day trips running from US$12 to US$15 depending whether you launch from Otres Beach or Serendipity Beach. Both islands have accommodation, although both are slated for development.
Kampot កំពត
%033 / Pop 39,500
There is something about this little charmer that encourages visitors to linger. It might be the lovely riverside setting or the ageing French buildings, or it could be the great little guesthouses and burgeoning bar scene. Whatever the magic ingredient, this is the perfect base from which to explore nearby caves and the beautiful Kompong Bay River.
1Sights & Activities
This is not a town where you come and do, but a place to come and be. Sit on the riverbank and watch the sun set beneath the mountains, or stroll among the town’s fine French shophouses (in the triangle delineated by 7 Makara St, the central roundabout and the post office).
oLa PlantationFARM
(%017 842505; www.kampotpepper.com; guided tours US$18-20; h9am-6pm) S 
F
This sprawling, lovely organic pepper farm offers guided walks in French, English and Khmer, explaining how several varieties of pepper are grown, harvested and processed. The farm also grows fruits, chillis, herbs and peanuts, and there’s a restaurant and shop where you can buy pepper at steep prices. (The money helps pay for children’s English classes at local schools.)
Kampot Traditional Music SchoolCULTURAL CENTRE
(MAP; %010 223325; www.kcdi-cambodia.org; St 724; h2-5pm Mon & Tue, 5-7pm Fri) S F
During set hours, visitors are welcome to observe traditional music and dance training sessions and/or performances at this school that teaches children who are orphaned or have disabilities. Donations are very welcome.
Khmer Roots CafeCOOKING
(%088 356 8016; www.khmerrootscafe.com; off NH33; US$20; h10am-4pm)
More than just a cooking class, Khmer Roots Cafe is a slice of Cambodian rural life set amid owner Soklim’s shady trees and organic vegetable gardens about an hour east of Kampot. Classes usually involve preparing two dishes (including gathering the ingredients), eating lunch and having the opportunity to explore the tranquil countryside by bicycle afterwards.
ClimbodiaCLIMBING
(MAP; %070 255210; www.climbodia.com; St 710; half day US$35-40, full day US$80; h3-8pm Tue-Sun, from 5pm Mon)
Cambodia’s first outdoor rock-climbing outfit offers highly recommended half-day and full-day programs of climbing, abseiling and caving amid the limestone formations of Phnom Kbal Romeas, 5km south of Kampot. Cabled routes (via ferratas) have been established across some of the cliffs and the program offerings cater for both complete novices and the more experienced.
TTours
Love the RiverBOATING
(%016 627410; per person US$15-19)
Offers longtail boat charters and cruises from the Green House along the river, with stops for beach swimming and exploring a durian plantation. Captain Bjorn earns high marks for local knowledge and foresight (he brings fresh fruit and cold beer to go with the sunset).
SUP AsiaWATER SPORTS
(MAP; %093 980550; www.supasia.org; Old Market; 2½hr tour US$25, half-day tour US$55; hdaily, closed Sep)
SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) has come to Kampot in a big way; this company offers it as an alternative form of touring the river. Daily tours depart at 8.30am, 2.30pm and 3.30pm, taking in the riverbank sights of the local area (with a SUP lesson beforehand). There’s also a two-day (18km) trip that traverses the Kampong Bay River to the sea.
Bart the BoatmanBOATING
(%092 174280; 2-person tour US$40)
Known simply as Bart the Boatman, this expat runs original private boat tours along the small tributaries of the Kampong Bay River. His backwater tour is highly recommended by travellers.
Captain Chim’sBOATING
(MAP; %012 321043; St 724, Captain Chim’s Guesthouse; sunset boat trip per person US$5)
A sunset cruise with firefly-watching on a traditional boat, including a cold beer, is one of Captain Chim’s popular excursions. Also on offer are fishing trips for US$11 including lunch, and bicycle hire (US$2 per day).
Sok Lim ToursTOURS
(MAP; %012 796919, 010 796919; www.soklimtours.com; St 730; h8am-7pm)
Kampot’s longest-running tour outfit is well regarded and organises all the usual day tours and river cruises. For private countryside tours there are good English-speaking remork-moto (tuk tuk) driver-guides who understand the process and history behind Kampot pepper. If there’s no one in the actual office, check the neighbouring Jack’s Place (MAP; St 730; mains US$2.50-6; h6.30am-10.30pm; Wv) restaurant.
4Sleeping
You can stay in the centre of the old town, or stay a little out of town in one of several places strung out along the riverbank.
Naga HouseHOSTEL$
(%012 289916; nagahousekampot@gmail.com; Tek Chhouu Rd; dm US$4, bungalows US$9-14; W)
This classic backpacker hang-out offers basic ground-level and stilted thatched bungalows (all with shared bathrooms) amid lush foliage, and coveted four- and eight-bed dorms in the main house on the river. There’s an attractive and extremely social bar-restaurant that often rocks into the night, especially on Saturdays when it hosts DJ sets.
Arcadia Backpackers & Water ParkHOSTEL$
(%097 519 7902; www.arcadiabackpackers.com; Tek Chhouu Rd; dm US$7-10, r US$20; W)
One of Kampot’s great backpacker party scenes, riverside Arcadia offers a wide range of accommodations, from large, mixed dorms by the bar to quiet, private doubles by the water. All beds come with mosquito nets and free entry to the water park, which includes a Russian swing, a 50m water slide, a climbing wall, a diving platform and a zipline.
Banyan Tree GuesthouseHOSTEL$
(%078 665094; www.banyantreekampot.com; Tek Chhouu Rd; dm US$3, r US$6-12; W)
Boat sports by day, booze by night, and plenty of downtime in between on the sublime riverside chill-out deck. Choose from a 20-bed dorm, simple rooms above the bar or pleasing rattan bungalows out back. Fridays are party nights with live music from top local band Kampot Playboys or visiting Phnom Penh acts. This is no place for light sleepers.
Monkey Republic KampotHOSTEL$
(MAP; %012 848390; monkeyrepublickampot@gmail.com; St 730; dm with air-con US$5-7, r with fan US$8-12; aW)
This 100-bed backpacker mecca in a restored villa features Kampot’s nicest dorm rooms. Choose from large dorms in the main building, or brand-new, six-bed ‘pods’ in the neighbouring house. Think individual lockers, privacy curtains and charging stations. There’s an upstairs hammock lounge, while French tiles and big booths add character to the lively bar downstairs.
oGreen HouseBUNGALOW$$
(%088 886 3071; www.greenhousekampot.com; Tek Chhouu Rd; bungalows US$25-35; W)
This gorgeously conceived riverfront pad is all about tranquillity, with the best of its palm-thatch bungalows and colourful wooden cottages (with balconies) right on the riverbank. The historic teak-wood main building, which houses the restaurant, was once home to the legendary Phnom Penh bar Snowy’s (aka Maxine’s), transported lock, stock, and barrel here in 2011. No children under age 12.
KAMPOT PEPPER
In the years before the Cambodian civil war took its toll, no self-respecting French restaurant in Paris would be without Kampot pepper on the table. Pepper plantations are once again a common sight in the Kampot region and come in a variety of colours, including white, black, green and red.
5Eating & Drinking
oCiaoITALIAN$
(MAP; St 722; mains US$2.75-4; hfrom 6pm)
Kampot’s most beloved Western street-food vendor is an Italian who cooks delicious pizzas one at a time in a modified dustbin out of this ramshackle space on Kampot’s street-food row. The pizzas take awhile but are sooo worth it. Also serves homemade gnocchi and pasta.
oThai FireTHAI$
(MAP; %081 364559; www.facebook.com/ThaiFireKampot; Guesthouse Rd; mains US$4.50-5; hnoon-10.30pm Mon-Sat)
Guests here are in the capable hands of Nalee, a culinary genius from Laos who taught herself to cook in Thailand and opened this restaurant with her husband Rhett, who handles non-cooking details. Don’t miss the excellent whole fried fish, enormous and Thai-style, with crispy skin, delicate flakes and chilli, lemongrass and cashews galore. Just dig in.
Epic Arts CaféCAFE$
(MAP; www.epicarts.org.uk; St 724; mains US$2-4; h7am-4pm; W) S
A great place for breakfast, homemade cakes, infused tea and light lunches, this mellow eatery is staffed by young people who are deaf or have a disability. Profits fund arts workshops for Cambodians with disabilities and there’s an upstairs shop that sells art, bags, jewellery, stuffed toys and the like.
Cafe EspressoCAFE$
(MAP; NH33; mains US$4-6; h8.30am-4pm Tue-Fri, 9am-4.30pm Sat & Sun; Wv)
It’s worth the trip to this cafe on the outskirts of town. The owners are real foodies and offer a global menu that traipses from vegetarian quesadillas to Brazilian-style pork sandwiches with some especially tempting breakfast options. But it is caffeine-cravers who will really be buzzing, thanks to the regionally grown coffee blends, roasted daily on-site.
KAMA CafeCAFE$
(MAP; St 726; mains US$3.50-4; h8am-7.30pm; W)
Inside the art space of the same name, KAMA is delightfully situated in an elegant old townhouse – perfect for an atmospheric breakfast or happy hour. The food – especially breakfast – is scrumptious, featuring light bites, curries and exciting daily specials prepared by Soon, who co-runs the place with her partner, Julien of the band Cambodian Space Project. Hours can be unpredictable.
Rusty KeyholeINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP; %095 212485; River Rd; ribs US$5-10; h8am-11.30pm Nov-May, 11am-11pm Jun-Oct; W)
This popular riverfront bar-restaurant turns out a global menu of comfort food and Khmer home cooking. Most people are here for its famous ribs; order in advance, but beware of the enormous, extra-large portions. Three more Rusty restaurants have opened in the last few years, with varying ownership.
Moi TietBAR
(MAP; Old Market)
This artsy little enclave in the Old Market (MAP; Riverfront Rd) specialises in ‘brews and tattoos’ according to its signage, but also does things like home-brewed ginger beer and tasty French dishes. It’s beloved most for its garden setting, intriguing patrons and delicious cocktails.
8Information
The free and often hilarious Kampot Survival Guide takes a tongue-in-cheek look at local expat life, and there’s also the free guide Coastal (www.coastal-cambodia.com).
Canadia Bank (Durian Roundabout; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)
Sonja Kill Memorial Hospital (%emergency 078 265782, outpatient clinic 077 666752; www.skmh.org; NH3) The best hospital in the area, with state-of-the-art medical facilities and highly trained local and expat doctors. It’s 7km west of Kampot.
Tourist Information Centre (%097 899 5593; lonelyguide@gmail.com; River Rd; h7am-5pm) Led by the knowledgeable Mr Pov, Kampot’s tourist office doles out free advice, sells tours and can arrange transport to area attractions such as caves, falls and Kompong Trach.
8Getting There & Away
Kampot is 105km from Sihanoukville and 148km from Phnom Penh.
Capitol Tours (%092 665001; NH33) and Phnom Penh Sorya (NH33) sell bus tickets from offices opposite the Total petrol station near the Four Nagas Roundabout. Both have daily trips to Phnom Penh (US$5 to US$6, 2½ hours) until lunchtime. Giant Ibis (%095 666809; www.giantibis.com; 7 Makara St) and Kampot Express (%078 555123; NH33) run comfortable express vans to Phnom Penh (US$8 to US$9, two hours).
Champa Mekong Tourist Bus (%087 630036; St 724) has five minivan departures daily to Sihanoukville and twice-daily departures to Ha Tien, Ho Chi Minh City, Phnom Penh and Bangkok.
A moto/remork to Kep should cost about US$6/12.
8Getting Around
Bicycles (US$2) and motorbikes (from US$5) can be rented from guesthouses in town.
Around Kampot
The limestone hills east towards Kep are honeycombed with fantastic caves, some of which can be explored with the help of local kids and a reliable torch (flashlight).
Phnom ChhnorkCAVE
(ភ្នំឈ្ងោក; US$1; h7am-6pm)
Phnom Chhnork is a short walk through a quilt of rice paddies from Wat Ang Sdok, where a monk collects the entry fee and a gaggle of friendly local kids offer their services as guides. From the bottom, a 203-step staircase leads up the hillside and down into a cavern as graceful as a Gothic cathedral. The view from up top is especially magical in the late afternoon, as is the walk to and from the wat.
Phnom SorsiaCAVE
(ភ្នំសសៀរ, Phnom Sia; h7am-5pm)F
Phnom Sorsia is home to several natural caves. From the parking area, a stairway leads up the hillside to a gaudy modern temple. From there, steps lead left up to Rung Damrey Saa (White Elephant Cave). A slippery, sloping staircase (where one false step will send you into the abyss) leads down and then up and then out through a hole in the other side. Exit the cave and follow the right-hand path which leads back to the temple.
Kep កែប
%036 / Pop 35,000
Kep was founded as a seaside retreat for the French elite in 1908 and was a favoured haunt of Cambodian high-rollers during the 1960s. Today tourists are being drawn back to Kep (Krong Kep, also spelled Kaeb) thanks to its spectacular sunsets and splendid seafood. Some travellers find Kep a tad soulless because it lacks a centre. Others are oddly charmed by its torpid pace.
Most of Kep’s beaches are too shallow and rocky to make for good swimming. The best is centrally located Kep Beach, but it’s still somewhat pebbly and tends to fill up with locals on weekends. The best place for sunset viewing is the long wooden pier in front of Knai Bang Chat’s Sailing Club.
1Sights & Activities
oKep National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(ឧទ្យានជាតិកែប; 4000r)
The interior of Kep peninsula is occupied by Kep National Park, where an 8km circuit, navigable by foot and mountain bike, winds through thick forest passing by wats and viewpoints. Quirky yellow signs point the way and show trailheads to off-shooting walking paths that lead into the park’s interior. The ‘Stairway to Heaven’ trail is particularly worthwhile, leading up the hill to a pagoda, a nunnery and the Sunset Rock viewpoint. The main park entrance is behind Veranda Natural Resort.
Koh TonsayISLAND
(កោះទន្សាយ, Rabbit Island)
If you like the rustic beachcomber lifestyle, Koh Tonsay’s 250m-long main beach is for you, but come now as the island is tagged for development. The beach is one of the nicest of any of the Kep-area islands, but don’t expect sparkling white sand. This one has shorefront flotsam, chickens and wandering cows. Restaurant shacks and rudimentary bungalows (from US$7 per night) rim the sand. Boats to Rabbit Island (30 minutes) leave from Rabbit Island pier at 9am and 1pm.
Kep BeachBEACH
(ឆ្នេរកែប)
This handkerchief-sized strip of sand is Kep’s only proper beach. In the prewar period, powder-white sand was trucked in from other beaches and this practice began again in 2013, ensuring the beach is now in better shape than it has been for years. It’s still somewhat pebbly and can get packed on weekends. The eastern end of the shaded promenade along the beach is marked by Sela Cham P’dey, a statue depicting a nude fisherman’s wife awaiting her husband’s return.
Wat Kiri SelaBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(វត្តគិរីសិលា; US$1; h7am-6pm)
This Buddhist temple sits at the foot of Phnom Kompong Trach, a dramatic karst formation riddled with more than 100 caverns and passageways. From the wat, an underground passage leads to a fishbowl-like formation, surrounded by vine-draped cliffs and open to the sky. Various stalactite-laden caves shelter reclining Buddhas and miniature Buddhist shrines. The closest town is Kompong Trach. From here, take the dirt road opposite the old Acleda Bank, on NH33 in the town centre, for 2km.
4Sleeping
Botanica GuesthouseBUNGALOW$
(%097 899 8614; www.kep-botanica.com; NH33A; r with fan/air-con US$22/29; aWs)
A little way from the action (if Kep can be said to have any action), Botanica offers exceptional value for money with attractive bungalows boasting contemporary bathrooms. There’s a well-shaded pool and guests can use free bicycles to pedal into town. Renovations have only improved what was already a good thing.
BacomaBUNGALOW$
(%088 411 2424; www.bacoma.weebly.com; NH33A; r US$15-30; W)
Cheap and cheerful rondavels (circular dwellings with conical thatched roofs) in the garden all have mosquito nets and fan, with a generous helping of sparkling-clean shared bathrooms. There are also roomy bungalows and traditional Khmer houses with private bathrooms, and the owner is a super-nice guy.
Bird of ParadiseBUNGALOW$
(%090 880413; www.birdofparadisebungalows.com; bungalows incl breakfast with fan/air-con from US$14/20; aW)
Set in a relaxed, peaceful garden, Bird of Paradise offers stupendous value and is well located just uphill from the main road, within walking distance of the crab market. Simple but sweet wooden bungalows, with hammocks strung from the porch, are delightfully rustic, while the air-con concrete cottages are more spacious.
5Eating & Drinking
Eating fresh crab fried with Kampot pepper at the Crab Market – a row of wooden waterfront shacks next to a wet fish market – is a quintessential Kep experience. There are lots of great places to choose from. Kimly (%097 255 5596; Crab Market; mains US$2.75-11.85; h9am-11pm) has a good reputation with crab prepared 27 different ways. The crab shacks also serve prawns, squid, fish and terrestrial offerings.
Deli’s KepDELI$
(%088 470 7952; NH33A; sandwiches US$3.50-4; h7am-7pm)
This new gourmet food store in Kep is earning high praise for its coppa, lomo, saucisson and other imported meats, along with top-notch pepper (100g for US$5 to US$8), coffee and craft booze. Grab a sandwich on the way to a pepper farm, or plop down for a relaxing meal in the airy, modern space.
oSailing ClubCOCKTAIL BAR
(mains US$7-12.50; h10am-10pm; W)
With a small beach, a breezy wooden bar and a wooden jetty poking out into the sea, this is one of Cambodia’s top sundowner spots. The Asian-fusion food is excellent and you can get your crab fix here too. There’s now an outdoor cocktail lounge and a vastly expanded seafront terrace.
8Getting There & Away
Kep is 25km from Kampot and 41km from the Prek Chak/Xa Xia border crossing to Vietnam. Phnom Penh Sorya and Hua Lian buses link the town with Kampot (US$2, 45 minutes) and Phnom Penh (US$5, four hours). A private taxi to Phnom Penh (three hours) costs US$40 to US$45. A moto/remork to Kampot costs about US$6/12. Guesthouses can arrange minibus/ bus combos to Sihanoukville and Koh Kong. Motorbike rental is US$5 to US$7 per day and can be organised through guesthouses.
GETTING TO VIETNAM: KEP TO HA TIEN
The Prek Chak/Xa Xia border crossing (open 6am to 5.30pm) has become a popular option for linking Kampot and Kep with Ha Tien and the popular Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc.
Getting to the border The easiest way to get to Prek Chak and on to Ha Tien, Vietnam, is on a bus or van from Sihanoukville (US$16, five hours), Kampot (US$8, 1½ hours) or Kep (US$5, one hour). Several companies ply the Sihanoukville–Kampot–Kep–Ha Tien route. A more flexible alternative from Phnom Penh or Kampot is to take any bus to Kompong Trach, then a moto (about US$3) for 15km to the border. In Kep, tour agencies and guesthouses can arrange a direct remork (US$13, one hour) or taxi (US$20, 30 minutes). Rates are almost double from Kampot.
At the border Pick up motos on the Vietnamese side of the border to Ha Tien (7km). You’ll save money walking across no-man’s land and picking up a moto on the other side for about US$3.
Moving on Travellers bound for Phu Quoc should arrive in Ha Tien no later than 12.30pm to secure a ticket on the 1pm ferry (230,000d or about US$11, 1½ hours). Extreme early risers may be able to make it to Ha Tien in time to catch the 8am ferry.
For information on making this crossing in reverse, see here.
Bokor Hill Station កស្ថានីយភ្នំបូកគោ
The 1581-sq-km Bokor National Park (ឧទ្យានជាតិបូកគោ, Preah Monivong National Park; motorbike/car 2000/10,000r) has impressive wildlife, lush primary forests and a refreshingly cool climate, but is most famous for its once-abandoned Bokor Hill Station, established atop Phnom Bokor (1080m) in the 1920s.
Until recently the main attraction here was the the abandoned shell of the grand, four-storey hotel, the Bokor Palace, opened in 1925 and the old Catholic church. The hill station was abandoned to the howling winds in the 1970s when Khmer Rouge forces infiltrated the area. The once-grand buildings became eerie, windowless shells. Unfortunately it is now becoming more famous for the ugly casino that blights the summit, part of a massive development project that has sadly destroyed the atmosphere of bygone Bokor.
To visit the park you can rent a motorbike or join an organised tour (US$10 to US$15 per person). The road is in incredible shape making for a great ride.
WORTH A TRIP
MEKONG DISCOVERY TRAIL
It’s well worth spending a couple of days exploring the various bike rides and activities on offer along the Mekong Discovery Trail (www.mekongdiscoverytrail.com), an initiative designed to open up stretches of the Mekong River around Stung Treng and Kratie to community-based tourism. Once managed by the government with foreign development assistance, the project is now being kept alive by private tour companies, such as Cambodia Mekong Trail (Xplore-Asia; %011 433836; www.cambodiamekongtrail.com) in Stung Treng and CRDTours in Kratie.
EASTERN CAMBODIA
If it’s a walk on the wild side that fires your imagination, then the northeast is calling. It’s home to forest elephants, freshwater dolphins and funky gibbons. Peppering the area are thundering waterfalls, crater lakes and meandering rivers. Trekking, biking, kayaking and ziplining are all beginning to take off. The rolling hills and lush forests provide a home to many ethnic minority groups. Do the maths: it all adds up to an amazing experience.
Kompong Cham កំពង់ចាម
%042 / Pop 125,000
This quiet Mekong city, an important trading post during the French period, serves as the gateway to Cambodia’s northeast. Most of the action is on the riverfront.
1Sights & Activities
Koh PaenISLAND
(កោះប៉ែន)
For a supremely relaxing bicycle ride, it’s hard to beat Koh Paen, a rural island in the Mekong River, connected to the southern reaches of Kompong Cham town by an elaborate bamboo bridge (foreigner US$1) in the dry season or a local ferry (with/without bicycle 1500/1000r) in the wet season.
Wat Nokor BacheyBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(វត្តនគរបាជ័យ; US$2)
The original fusion temple, Wat Nokor is a modern Theravada Buddhist pagoda squeezed into the walls of a 12th-century Mahayana Buddhist shrine of sandstone and laterite. It’s located down a pretty dirt road just off the highway to Phnom Penh, about 2.5km west of the centre.
4Sleeping & Eating
oMoon River GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%016 788973; moonrivermekong@gmail.com; Sihanouk St; r with fan US$7-15, with air-con US$12-25; aW)
The best of the riverfront guesthouses, Moon River is a great all-rounder with smart, spacious rooms, including some triples. Downstairs is a popular restaurant-bar (mains US$2 to US$4) that serves hearty breakfasts and draws a crowd by night.
Mekong Bamboo Hut GuesthouseHOSTEL$
(%015 905620; mekongbamboohut@gmail.com; Koh Paen; hammock US$3; W)
This French-run riverside guesthouse has the feel of a hippy commune and is a great place to get away from it all if the pace of life is too fast back on the mainland. Accommodation is very basic with hammocks strung across bamboo pavilions with mosquito nets, but it certainly has a chilled vibe. It has a little restaurant on-site.
oSmile RestaurantCAMBODIAN$
(www.bsda-cambodia.org; Sihanouk St; mains US$3-5; h6.30am-10pm; W) S
Run by the Buddhism and Society Development Association (BSDA), this handsome nonprofit restaurant is a huge hit with the NGO crowd for its big breakfasts and authentic Khmer cuisine, such as char k’dau (stir-fry with lemongrass, hot basil and peanuts) and black-pepper squid. Western dishes are on the menu as well, and it sells BSDA-made krama (checked scarves) and trinkets.
Lazy Mekong DazeINTERNATIONAL$
(Sihanouk St; mains US$3-5.50; h7.30am-last customer; W)
One of the go-to places to gather after dark thanks to a mellow atmosphere, a pool table and a big screen for sports and movies. The menu includes a range of Khmer, Thai and French food, plus the best pizzas in town, chilli con carne and tempting ice creams.
8Information
Lazy Mekong Daze hands out a decent map that highlights the major sights in and around Kompong Cham.
Canadia Bank (Preah Monivong Blvd; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) ATM plus cash advances on credit cards.
8Getting There & Around
Phnom Penh is 120km southwest. If you are heading north to Kratie or beyond, secure transport via the sealed road to Chhlong rather than taking a huge detour east to Snuol on NH7.
Phnom Penh Sorya (Preah Monivong Blvd) is the most reliable bus company operating and serves Phnom Penh (20,000r, three hours), Kratie (20,000r, two hours), Ban Lung (32,000r, seven hours) and Siem Reap (24,000r, five hours).
Share taxis (15,000r, 2½ hours) and overcrowded local minibuses (10,000r) also make the run to Phnom Penh, departing from the taxi park near the New Market (Psar Thmei).
Morning share taxis and minibuses to Kratie (US$5, 1½ hours) depart when full from the Caltex station at the main roundabout, and there are morning minibuses from the taxi park as well.
Kratie ក្រចេះ
%072 / Pop 45,000
The most popular place in Cambodia to glimpse Southeast Asia’s remaining freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins, Kratie (kra-cheh) is a lively riverside town with a rich legacy of French-era architecture and some of the best Mekong sunsets in Cambodia.
Lying just across the water from Kratie is the island of Koh Trong, an almighty sandbar in the middle of the river. Cross here by boat and enjoy a slice of rural island life. Catch the little ferry from the port or charter a local boat (around US$2) to get here. Bicycle rental is available on the island near the ferry landing for US$1, or do the loop around the island on a moto (US$2.50) steered by a female motodup (moto driver) – a rarity for Cambodia.
2Activities
oSorya Kayaking AdventuresKAYAKING
(MAP; %090 241148; www.soryakayaking.com; Rue Preah Suramarit; US$24-52, depending on numbers; h7am-9pm)
Sorya has a fleet of seven tandem kayaks and runs memorable half-day trips on the Mekong north of Kratie (November to June only), or on the Te River to the south (August to October). The Mekong trips pass through secluded sandbar beaches and areas of beautiful flooded forest to bring you close to the dolphins – without the engine noise.
CRDToursTOURS
(MAP; Cambodia Rural Discovery Tours; %099 834353; www.crdtours.org; St 3; h8am-noon & 2-5.30pm; W) S
Run by the Cambodian Rural Development team, this company focuses on sustainable tours along the Mekong Discovery Trail. Homestays, volunteer opportunities and various excursions are available on the Mekong island of Koh Pdao, 20km north of Kampi. The typical price is US$38 to US$60 per day, including all meals and tours.
DON’T MISS
DOLPHIN-WATCHING AROUND KRATIE
The freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin (trey pisaut) is an endangered species throughout Asia, with shrinking numbers inhabiting stretches of the Mekong in Cambodia and Laos, and isolated pockets in Bangladesh and Myanmar.
The dark blue to grey cetaceans grow to 2.75m long and are recognisable by their bulging foreheads and small dorsal fins. They can live in fresh or saltwater, although they are seldom seen in the sea. For more on this rare creature, see www.worldwildlife.org/species/irrawaddy-dolphin.
Before the civil war, locals say, Cambodia was home to as many as 1000 dolphins. However, during the Pol Pot regime, many were hunted for their oils, and their numbers continue to plummet even as drastic protection measures have been put in place, including a ban on fishing and commercial motorised boat traffic on much of the Mekong between Kratie and Stung Treng. The dolphins continue to die off at an alarming rate, and experts now estimate that there are fewer than 85 Irrawaddy dolphins left in the Mekong between Kratie and the Lao border.
The best place to see them is at Kampi, about 15km north of Kratie, on the road to Sambor. A moto/remork should be around US$7/10 return depending on how long the driver has to wait. Motorboats shuttle visitors out to the middle of the river to view the dolphins at close quarters. It costs US$9 per person for one to two persons and US$7 per person for groups of three to four. Encourage the boat driver to use the engine as little as possible once near the dolphins, as the noise is sure to disturb them. It is also possible to see the dolphins near the Lao border in Stung Treng province.
4Sleeping
There are homestays available on the island of Koh Trong opposite Kratie town.
oLe Tonlé Tourism Training CenterGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %072-210505; www.letonle.org; St 3; r without bathroom US$10-20; aW) S
CRDT runs this fantastic budget guesthouse in a beautiful wooden house in the centre. With silk pillows and bed runners, agreeable art and photos, wood floors and a great hang-out area, it puts plenty of care into the design. Rooms are somewhat dark but share boutique-quality bathrooms. It doubles as a training centre for at-risk locals.
U-Hong II GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %085 885168; 119 St 10; r US$4-13; aiW)
A lively little shoes-off guesthouse between the market and the riverfront. There are eight rooms here, plus 11 more in a nearby annex, some with air-con. There is a buzzing bar-restaurant that boasts the most extensive cocktail list in town.
Balcony GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %016 604036; www.balconyguesthouse.net; Rue Preah Suramarit; dm US$5, r US$5-15; aiW)
This long-running backpacker place has a few tasteful private rooms, a four-bed dorm, a popular bar overlooking the Mekong and a huge balcony on the 3rd floor for prime river views. The bar has a gigantic snooker table, which is a lot harder to master than a standard pool table.
5Eating
oTokae RestaurantCAMBODIAN$
(MAP; %097 297 2118; St 10; mains US$2-4; h6am-11pm; W)
Pete’s Pizza Pasta & CafeINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP; %090 241148; www.petescafekratie.com; Rue Preah Suramarit; US$1-5; h7am-9pm daily; W)
Get your home fix of pizza, pasta, toasties and salads at this internationally run riverfront cafe; it is also the base for Sorya Kayaking Adventures. The menu includes homemade bakery items such as pumpkin bread, muffins and cookies. By night it doubles as a small sports bar with a flat-screen television and will stay open later for big games.
Jasmine Boat RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP; %096 331 1998; Rue Preah Suramarit; mains US$4-22; h7am-10pm; W)
Occupying a prime location overlooking Kratie’s busy ferry dock, this is the only place on the riverbank in town. The boat-shaped restaurant has a mixed menu of affordable Khmer specials and pricey international cuts of meat. It really shines at sunset but is a good perch any time of day.
8Information
All of the recommended guesthouses are pretty switched-on to travellers’ needs and U-Hong II Guesthouse has public internet access.
Canadia Bank (Rue Preah Suramarit; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr) has an ATM offering cash withdrawals, plus currency exchange.
8Getting There & Away
Kratie is 348km northeast of Phnom Penh (250km via Chhlong) and 141km south of Stung Treng.
Phnom Penh Sorya runs three buses per day to Phnom Penh (US$8, five to seven hours). Sorya buses to Siem Reap involve a change in Suong.
Going the other way, Sorya’s bus from Phnom Penh to Pakse, Laos (US$20, eight hours), hits Kratie around 11.30am. Sorya also has a 1pm bus to Ban Lung (US$8, five hours), and a 3pm bus to Stung Treng (US$5, three hours).
Express vans, which pick you up from your guesthouse, are a faster way to Phnom Penh (US$7, four hours, about six per day). There’s also an express van to Siem Reap (US$13, six hours, 7.30am).
For Sen Monorom, take a local minibus from the taxi park (30,000r, four hours, two or three early morning departures). Local minibuses also serve Ban Lung, with most departures between 11am and 2pm.
Most guesthouses can arrange bicycle (from US$1) and motorbike hire (from US$5). An English-speaking motodup will set you back US$10 to US$15 per day, or a remork about US$25.
GETTING TO LAOS: STUNG TRENG TO SI PHAN DON
The remote Trapeang Kriel/Nong Nok Khiene border (open 6am to 6pm) is 60km north of Stung Treng.
Getting to the border There are no longer any through buses between Phnom Penh and Pakse. You’ll need to get yourself to Stung Treng, from where there are at least two minivans per day (at noon and 2pm) that run across the border and onward to the 4000 Islands and Pakse. The only other option to the border is a private taxi (around US$35 to US$40) or moto (motorcycle taxi; around US$15) from Stung Treng.
At the border Both Lao and Cambodian visas are available on arrival. Entering Laos, you’ll pay US$30 to US$42 for a visa, depending on nationality, plus a US$2 fee. Cambodian immigration usually overcharge by up to US$5 for a visa on arrival and all the associated paperwork.
Moving on Aside from the Sorya bus, there’s virtually zero traffic on either side of the border. If you’re dropped at the border, expect to pay 150,000r/50,000K (US$12/4) for a taxi/săhmlór heading north to Ban Nakasang (for Don Det).
Stung Treng ស្ទឹងត្រែង
%074 / Pop 35,000
Located on the Tonlé San near its confluence with the Mekong, Stung Treng is a quiet town with limited appeal, but sees a lot of transit traffic passing through between Laos and Cambodia.
4Sleeping & Eating
4 Rivers HotelHOTEL$
(%070 507822; www.fourrivershotel.com; US$15-30; aiW)
Riverside GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%012-257207; kimtysou@gmail.com; r with fan/air-con US$6/12; iW)
Overlooking the riverfront area, the Riverside has long been a popular travellers’ hub. Rooms are basic, but then so are the prices. It’s a good spot for travel information and there’s a bar-restaurant downstairs.
8Information
Canadia Bank (h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr) Has an international ATM.
8Getting There & Away
Phnom Penh Sorya (%092 181805) has a 6.30am bus to Phnom Penh (40,000r, nine hours) via Kratie (20,000r, three hours). Sorya’s bus from Laos to Phnom Penh comes through Stung Treng around 11.30am. There is a comfortable tourist van to Ban Lung (US$6, two hours, 8am).
The new highway west from Thala Boravit to Preah Vihear via Chhep is in great shape. Asia Van Transfer (%in Siem Reap 063-963853; www.asiavantransfer.com; Riverside Guesthouse) has an express minibus to Siem Reap at 2pm daily (US$23, five hours), with a stop in Preah Vihear City (US$12, three hours).
Riverside Guesthouse rents out motorbikes (from US$8) and bicycles (US$1 to US$2).
Ratanakiri Province ខេត្តរតនគិរី
Popular Ratanakiri Province is a diverse region of natural beauty that provides a remote home for a mosaic of minority peoples – Jarai, Tompuon, Brau and Kreung – with their own languages, traditions and customs. Adrenaline-pumping activities abound. Swim in clear volcanic lakes, shower under waterfalls, or trek in the vast Virachey National Park, it’s all here.
WARNING: DANGER UXO
The Ho Chi Minh Trail once passed through the hills of Ratanakiri, where it was nicknamed the Sihanouk Trail in reference to Cambodia’s then head of state. This region was heavily bombed by the Americans and there is still some unexploded ordnance (UXO) around. Never touch anything that looks vaguely like UXO.
Ban Lung បានលុង
%075 / Pop 45,000
Affectionately known as dey krahorm (red earth) after its rust colour, Ban Lung provides a popular base for a range of Ratanakiri romps. It is one of the easiest places in Cambodia to arrange a jungle trek and has several beautiful lakes and waterfalls nearby.
1Sights & Activities
oBoeng Yeak LomLAKE
(បឹងយក្សឡោម; US$2)
At the heart of the protected area of Boeng Yeak Lom is a beautiful, emerald-hued crater lake set amid the vivid greens of the towering jungle. It is one of the most peaceful, beautiful locations Cambodia has to offer and the water is extremely clear. Several wooden piers are dotted around the perimeter, making it perfect for swimming. A small Cultural and Environmental Centre has a modest display on ethnic minorities in the province and hires out life jackets for children.
Virachey National ParkPARK
(ឧទ្យានជាតិវីរជ័យ; %097 333 4775; leamsou@gmail.com; US$5; hoffice 8-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
This park is one of the largest protected areas in Cambodia, stretching for 3325 sq km east to Vietnam, north to Laos and west to Stung Treng Province. Virachey has one of the most organised ecotourism programs in Cambodia, focusing on small-scale culture, nature and adventure trekking. The program aims to involve and benefit local minority communities. All treks into the park must be arranged through the Virachey National Park Eco-Tourism Information Centre in Ban Lung.
WaterfallsWATERFALL
Tucked amid the sprawling cashew and rubber plantations just west of Ban Lung are three waterfalls (per waterfall 2000r) worth visiting: Chaa Ong, Ka Tieng and Kinchaan. All are within a 20-minute moto ride of town, and visits to all three are usually included in tour companies’ half- and full-day excursions. The turn-offs to all three are 200m west of the new bus station, just beyond a Lina petrol station. There’s signage but it’s barely visible.
TTours
Overnight treks with nights spent camping or staying in minority villages north of Veun Sai or Ta Veng are popular. Figure on US$50 per person per day for a couple (less for larger groups). Backpacker Pad and Tree Top Ecolodge are good at arranging tours, but there are also several dedicated tour companies in town.
DutchCo Trekking CambodiaTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %097 679 2714; www.trekkingcambodia.com)
One of the most experienced trekking operators in the province, run by – wait for it – a friendly Dutchman. Runs four- to five-day treks north of Veun Sai through Kavet villages and community forests, and one- to two-day trips around Kalai (south of Veun Sai), among many other tours.
Highland ToursTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %097 658 3841; highland.tour@yahoo.com)
Kimi and Horng are husband-and-wife graduates of Le Tonlé Tourism Training Center in Stung Treng, who have moved to the highlands to run a range of tours, including fun day trips and a multiday tour between Veun Sai and Ta Veng that combines trekking with floating down the Tonlé San on a bamboo raft. Horng is one of the only female guides in Ratanakiri.
4Sleeping
oTree Top EcolodgeBUNGALOW$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 490333; www.treetop-ecolodge.com; d US$7, cottage with cold/hot water US$12/15; W)
This is one of the best places to stay in Cambodia’s ‘wild east’, with oodles of atmosphere. ‘Mr T’s’ place boasts rough-hewn walkways leading to huge bungalows featuring mosquito nets, thatch roofs and hammock-strewn verandahs with verdant valley vistas. Like the bungalows, the restaurant is fashioned from hardwood and dangles over a lush ravine.
Banlung BalconyGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %097 809 7036; www.balconyguesthouse.net; Boeng Kansaign; dm US$2, r US$5-20; iW)
Under super-friendly French management, this long-standing backpackers has upped its game with a tip-top renovation of both the atmospheric main house and the enviably placed bar and restaurant, which features sunset views over the lake. The upstairs rooms, all polished wood and high ceilings, are borderline boutique, only at budget prices.
Flashpacker PadHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %093 785259; flashpackerpad@gmail.com; Boeng Kansaign; r US$8-15; aW)
Quite literally a flashpacker pad, the rooms here have a touch of class, with flat-screen TVs and indigenous-made runners on white bedspreads. Go for a room with a view for misty mornings on the lake. Owner Sophat is a great source of info and runs a tour company.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
THE REAL GIBBON EXPERIENCE
Spend the night in the jungle, then rise well before dawn to spend time with semi-habituated northern buff-cheeked gibbons at the community-based ecotourism project Cambodian Gibbon Ecotours (%097 752 9960; www.cambodiangibbons.wordpress.com; tours from US$100) set up by Conservation International (CI; www.conservation.org) just outside the border of Virachey National Park, north of Veun Sai. The high-season-only tours cost US$100 to US$200 per person for a one-night/two-day tour, depending on group size and which tour company you choose. Most companies in Ban Lung can arrange these trips on behalf of CI.
This species was only discovered in 2010 and the population here is believed to be one of the largest in the world at about 500 groups. Hearing their haunting dawn call and seeing them swing through the canopy is memorable. These tours also offer the opportunity to experience dense jungle, open savannah, rivers and waterfalls, and to visit Kavet and Lao villages.
CI has an exclusive arrangement with the village near the gibbon site to run these tours within the Veun Sai–Siem Pang Conservation Area (VSSPCA). You stay at least one night in the jungle sleeping in hammocks or in a community-based homestay. The fee includes entrance to the VSSPCA, guide, homestays and camps, and all meals. The gibbon-viewing season runs from November to mid-June – it’s too wet at other times – and the visits are limited to six people at a time. For an organised tour to the area with transportation, try Gibbon Spotting Cambodia (%063-966355; www.gibbonspottingcambodia.com).
5Eating & Drinking
oCafe AleeINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; mains US$1.50-5.50; h7am-9pm; Wv) S
This friendly cafe has one of the more interesting menus in town, including a generous smattering of vegetarian options, a hearty lasagne and the full gamut of Khmer food. Be sure to check the exciting specials board. It often stays open later if there is drinking to be done.
oGreen CarrotINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; mains US$2-6; h7am-10pm; W)
A great little hole-in-the-wall restaurant that turns out surprisingly sophisticated food, including healthy salads, sandwiches and wraps, plus a good range of Khmer favourites. It even does a decent burger and some very affordable pizzas. Happy hour has two-for-one cocktails from 6pm to 8pm.
8Information
Canadia Bank (h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr) Full-service bank with an international ATM.
Virachey National Park Eco-Tourism Information Centre (%097 333 4775; leamsou@gmail.com; h8-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) The place to organise trekking in Virachey National Park.
8Getting There & Away
There is a vast bus station on the western outskirts of town, 2.5km west of Ban Lung’s main roundabout, but guesthouses and tour companies can arrange pickups in town.
Phnom Penh Sorya and Thong Ly run early-morning buses to Phnom Penh (US$9 to US$10, 11 hours) via Kratie and Kompong Cham.
Speedy express-van services pick you up at your guesthouse and head to Phnom Penh (US$15, eight hours, 6am and 1pm) and Stung Treng (US$7, two hours, around 8am). Organise these through your guesthouse. Call Backpacker Pad or Tree Top Ecolodge to arrange an express van pickup if coming from Phnom Penh.
There is also a daily minivan south to Sen Monorom (US$8, two hours, 8am) in Mondulkiri. Various local slow minibuses also depart in the morning to Phnom Penh (50,000r), Stung Treng (20,000r) and O’Yadaw (12,000r), and throughout the day to Lumphat (10,000r, one hour) and Kratie (25,000r, four hours).
8Getting Around
Bicycles (US$1 to US$3), motorbikes (US$5 to US$7), cars (from US$30) and 4WDs (from US$50) are available for hire from most guesthouses in town.
Motodups hang out around the market and some double as guides. Figure on US$15 to US$20 per day for a good English-speaking driver-guide. A moto to Yeak Lom costs about US$5 return; to Veun Sai is US$15 return; to any waterfall is about US$6 return.
Cheng Heng (%088 8516104; h6am-8pm) has some 250cc trail bikes for rent (US$25) in addition to a stable of well-maintained smaller motorbikes (US$6 to US$8).
GETTING TO VIETNAM: EASTERN BORDERS
Kompong Cham to Tay Ninh
The Trapeang Plong/Xa Mat crossing (open 7am to 5pm) is convenient for those using private transport to travel between northeast Cambodia or Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City.
Getting to the border From Kompong Cham take anything heading east on NH7 toward Snuol, and get off at the roundabout in Krek (Kraek) on NH7. From there, it’s 13km south by moto (US$3) along NH72 to snoozy Trapeang Plong.
At the border This border is a breeze; just have your Vietnam visa ready.
Moving on On the Vietnamese side, motorbikes and taxis go to Tay Ninh, 45km to the south.
Snuol to Binh Long
The Trapeang Sre/Loc Ninh crossing (open 7am to 5pm) is useful for those trying to get straight to Vietnam from Kratie or points north.
Getting to the border First get to Snuol by bus, share taxi or minibus from Sen Monorom, Kratie or Kompong Cham. In Snuol catch a moto (US$5) for the 18km trip southeastward along smooth NH74.
At the border Some nationalities need a prearranged visa to enter Vietnam.
Moving on On the Vietnamese side, the nearest town is Binh Long, 40km to the south. Motorbikes wait at the border.
Ban Lung to Pleiku
The O Yadaw/Le Thanh crossing (open 7am to 5pm) is 70km east of Ban Lung along smooth NH19.
Getting to the border From Ban Lung, guesthouses advertise a 6.30am van to Pleiku (US$12, 3½ hours) involving a change of vehicle at the border. This picks you up at your guesthouse.
At the border Formalities are straightforward and lines nonexistent; just make sure you have a Vietnam visa if you need one.
Moving on On the Vietnamese side of the frontier, the road is nicely paved. Motos await to take you to Duc Co (20km), where there are buses to Pleiku, Quy Nhon and Hoi An. For information on making this crossing in reverse.
Mondulkiri Province ខេត្តមណ្ឌលគិរី
Mondulkiri (Meeting of the Hills), the original ‘wild east’ of the country, is a world apart from the lowlands with not a rice paddy or palm tree in sight. Home to the hardy Bunong people and their noble elephants, this upland area is a seductive mix of grassy hills, pine groves and jade-green rainforests. Activities are taking off in a big way with a new zipline and quad-biking adventures on tap.
Conservationists have grand plans for the sparsely populated province, with wildlife encounters such as walking with the herd at Elephant Valley Project and spotting doucs and gibbons in the Seima Protected Forest, but are facing off against loggers, poachers and speculators.
Sen Monorom សែនមនោរម្យ
%073 / Pop 10,000
The provincial capital of Mondulkiri, Sen Monorom is really an overgrown village, a charming community set in the spot where the legendary hills meet. The area around Sen Monorom is peppered with minority villages and picturesque waterfalls, making it the ideal base to spend some time. It’s set at 800m; when the winds blow it’s notably cooler than the rest of Cambodia, so bring warm clothing.
WORTH A TRIP
MONKEY BUSINESS IN MONDULKIRI
A recent Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) study estimated populations of 20,600 black-shanked doucs and more than 1000 yellow-cheeked crested gibbons in Seima Protected Forest; these are the world’s largest known populations of both species. Jahoo Gibbon Camp (%063-963710; https://samveasna.org/category/jahoo-gibbon-camp/; Andong Kroloeng; per person incl meals US$125-200) S offers the chance to trek into the wild and try to spot these primates, along with other elusive animals, thanks to an exciting project supported by the Sam Veasna Center (SVC) in the Bunong village of Andong Kraloeng.
The Jahoo Gibbon Camp provides local villagers with an incentive to conserve the endangered primates and their habitat through providing a sustainable income. Treks wind their way through mixed evergreen forest and waterfalls, with an excellent chance of spotting the doucs and macaques along the way. Gibbons are very shy and harder to see, but thanks to recent field research by WCS and the community, the local gibbon families are more used to people than gibbons elsewhere. You’ll need to be up before dawn to spot them, however, so sleeping at the camp is highly recommended.
Many other species are present in this area; there is an enormous diversity of bird life, including the spectacular giant hornbill, as well as chances to find the tracks and signs of more elusive species, such as bears, gaur (wild cattle) and elephants.
Registered guides, together with local Bunong guides, accompany visitors along the trails. A conservation contribution is included in the cost of the trip, which supports community development projects; an additional contribution is paid by each visitor and by SVC if doucs and/or gibbons are spotted, providing a direct incentive for the village to protect these rare wildlife species.
For information and booking, contact the Sam Veasna Center (%071 553 9779, 012 520828; www.samveasna.org; Hefalump Cafe, Sen Monorom) S team at the Hefalump Cafe in Sen Monorom.
1Sights & Activities
Multiday forest treks taking in minority villages are the big draw. We recommend securing indigenous Bunong guides for these trips. They know the forests intimately and can break the ice with the locals in any Bunong villages you visit.
oSeima Protected ForestNATIONAL PARK
(https://cambodia.wcs.org/Saving-Wild-Places/Seima-Forest.aspx; Andong Kroloeng; wildlife-spotting tours US$70-125; Jahoo Gibbon Camp per night US$115-200) S
The 3000-sq-km Seima Protected Forest hosts the country’s greatest treasure trove of mammalian wildlife. Besides unprecedented numbers of black-shanked doucs and yellow-cheeked crested gibbons, an estimated 150 wild elephants – accounting for around half of the total population in Cambodia – roam the park, along with bears and cats.
The Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS; www.wcscambodia.com) in partnership with ecotourism specialist Sam Veasna Center helps to manage the forest, and there are a range of ecotourism initiatives under way, including primate spotting in Andong Kroloeng.
Bou Sraa WaterfallWATERFALL
(ទឹកជ្រោះប៊ូស្រា; US$2.50)
Plunging into the dense jungle below, this is one of Cambodia’s most impressive falls. Famous throughout the country, this double-drop waterfall has an upper tier of some 10m and a spectacular lower tier with a thundering 25m drop. Getting here is a 33km, one-hour journey east of Sen Monorom on a mostly sealed road.
oElephant Valley ProjectWILDLIFE RESERVE
(EVP; %099 696041; www.elephantvalleyproject.org; hMon-Fri)
For an original elephant experience, visit the Elephant Valley Project, a pioneering ‘walking with the herd’ project in Mondulkiri. The project entices local mahouts to bring their overworked or injured elephants to this 1600-hectare sanctuary. It’s very popular, so make sure you book well ahead. You can visit for a whole day (US$85) or a half day (US$55). It does not take overnight visitors on Friday and Saturday nights and is not open to day visitors on Saturday and Sunday.
Mayura ZiplineZIPLINE
(%071 888 0800, 011 79 77 79; http://mondulkresort.com; Bou Sraa Waterfall; US$45; h9am-4pm)
The Mayura Zipline is an adrenaline rush in the extreme, as the longest 300m-line passes right over the top of the spectacular Bou Sraa falls. The zipline course starts on the far bank of the river; there are six lines to navigate, plus a suspension bridge. The first four zips are warm-ups for the high-speed flight over the waterfall; the course finishes with a short tandem line for couples or new friends.
RESPONSIBLE TREKKING AROUND NORTHEAST CAMBODIA
Treks taking in the remote forests and minority villages of Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri are very popular these days. Where possible, we recommend using indigenous guides for organised treks and other excursions around the provinces. They speak the local dialects, understand tribal taboos and can secure permission to visit cemeteries that are off-limits to Khmer guides. Their intimate knowledge of the forests is another major asset.
More tips on visiting indigenous communities responsibly:
ATry to spend some real time in minority villages – at least several hours if not overnight. If you don’t have a few hours to invest, don’t go.
ATravel in small, less disruptive groups.
ADo not photograph without asking permission first – this includes children. Some hill tribes believe the camera will capture their spirit.
ADress modestly.
ATaste traditional wine if you are offered it, especially during a ceremony. Refusal will cause offence.
AIndividual gifts create jealousy and expectations. Instead, consider making donations to the local school, medical centre or community fund.
AHonour signs discouraging outsiders from entering a village, for instance during a spiritual ceremony. A good local guide will be able to detect these signs.
ANever give children sweets or money.
ADon’t buy village treasures, such as altarpieces or totems, or the clothes or jewellery locals are wearing.
TTours
Hefalump Cafe This NGO-run cafe doubles as a ‘drop-in centre’ for Bunong people and is the best source of information on sustainable tourism in Mondulkiri Province, including the Elephant Valley Project, the Seima Protected Forest and responsible tours to Bunong communities. It is advisable to try and book two to three days in advance to best ensure availability.
Green HouseTOURS
(%017 905659; www.greenhouse-tour.blogspot.com; NH76)
One of the longest-running tour operators in Mondulkiri, Green House organises the full range of forest treks and waterfall trips, and there are motorbikes for hire (per day US$6 to US$8).
4Sleeping
oNature LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(%012 230272; www.naturelodgecambodia.com; r US$10-30; W)
Sprawling across a windswept hilltop near town are 30 solid wood bungalows with private porches, hot showers and mosquito nets. Among them are Swiss Family Robinson–style chalets with sunken beds and ante-rooms. The magnificent restaurant has comfy nooks, a pool table and an enviable bar where guests chill out and swap travel tales.
Indigenous Peoples LodgeBUNGALOW$
(%012 725375; indigenouspeopleslodge@gmail.com; d US$5-15, q US$20; iW)
Run by a Bunong family, this is a great place to stay, with a whole range of accommodation set in minority houses, including a traditional thatched Bunong house with an upgrade or two. The cheapest rooms involve a share bathroom, but are good value. Perks include free internet and free drop-offs in town.
Tree LodgeBUNGALOW$
(%097 723 4177; www.treelodgecambodia.com; d US$7-10, q US$12-15; W)
Sixteen bungalows of various shapes and sizes drip down a hillside at the back of the reception. Rooms have balconies and attractive open-air bathrooms, but lack any shelf space or furniture besides a bed. Hang out at the restaurant, where hammocks and tasty Khmer food await.
5Eating & Drinking
oCoffee Plantation ResortCAMBODIAN$
(%012 666542; www.chormkacafe.com; mains US$2.50-7; h7am-9pm; W)
As the name suggests, this place is set in the grounds of an extensive coffee plantation, but offers some excellent local flavours, as well as the homegrown coffee. The banh chaeuv savoury pancakes are a wholesome meal for just US$2.50. There’s also delicious honey-roasted chicken.
Hefalump CafeCAFE$
(www.helalumpcafe-tourismhub.com; NH76; cakes US$1-3; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sun; W) S
A collaboration of various NGOs and conservation groups in town, this cafe doubles as a hospitality training centre for Bunong people. Local coffee or Lavazza, teas, cakes and healthy breakfasts make this a great spot to plan your adventures over a cuppa.
Khmer KitchenCAMBODIAN$
(NH76; mains US$2-5; h6am-10pm; W)
This unassuming streetside eatery whips up some of the most flavoursome Khmer food in the hills. The kari saik trey (fish coconut curry) and other curries are particularly note-worthy, plus they also offer a smattering of international dishes.
oThe HangoutBAR
(%088 721 9991)
The bar at this backpacker guesthouse is the most happening spot in town. There are bar sports including table football, occasional jam sessions and some of Sen Monorom’s best Western food to complement the Khmer menu. It’s run by an affable Tasmanian-Khmer couple and has dorms and private rooms downstairs.
8Information
The recommended guesthouses are all very good sources of information and run the full gamut of tours.
Acleda Bank (NH76; h8.30am-3.30pm, ATM 24hr) changes major currencies and has a Visa-only ATM.
8Getting There & Away
Phnom Penh Sorya runs a 7.30am bus to Phnom Penh (35,000r, eight hours). Kim Seng Express runs comfortable minivans (US$11) that do the trip in five hours and has six departures daily between 7am and 2pm. Virak-Buntham also operates a minibus to Phnom Penh (US$12), with departures at 7.15am and 1.30pm.
Local minibuses are the way to get to Kratie (30,000r, four hours). Count on at least one early-morning departure and two or three departures around lunchtime.
There are now minibuses plying the new road to Ban Lung in Ratanakiri, which cost US$8 and take about two hours.
8Getting Around
English-speaking moto drivers cost about US$15 to US$20 per day. Most guesthouses rent out motorbikes for US$6 to US$8 and a few have bicycles for US$2.