Luxor
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Luxor
%095 / Pop 1,088,911
Why Go?
Luxor is often called the world’s greatest open-air museum, but that comes nowhere near describing this extraordinary place. Nothing in the world compares to the scale and grandeur of the monuments that have survived from ancient Thebes.
The setting is breathtakingly beautiful, the Nile flowing between the modern city and west-bank necropolis, backed by the enigmatic Theban escarpment. Scattered across the landscape is an embarrassment of riches, from the temples of Karnak and Luxor in the east to the many tombs and temples on the west bank.
Thebes’ wealth and power, legendary in antiquity, began to lure Western travellers from the end of the 18th century. Depending on the political situation, today’s traveller might be alone at the sights, or be surrounded by coachloads of tourists from around the world. Whichever it is, a little planning will help you get the most from the magic of Thebes.
When to Go
- Apr–May & Oct–Nov Some of the best months to visit, with the richest light.
- Sha’aban (Mar–May) The month when the city celebrates its holy man, Youssef Abu Al Haggag.
- 26 NovThe day Howard Carter opened the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
Luxor Highlights
1 Karnak Wandering around the exotic stone thickets of gigantic papyrus-shaped columns in the great hypostyle hall.
2 Luxor Temple Marvelling at the stunning architecture and returning later at night to see the beautifully lit carvings on the walls.
3 Valley of the Kings Being led by the gods into the afterworld, like the pharaoh.
4 Tombs of the Nobles Glimpsing the good life of an ancient Egyptian aristocrat on the tomb walls.
5 Medinat Habu Wandering through the best-preserved Theban temple in the soft late-afternoon light.
6 Temple of Seti I Sensing the spirituality of this rarely visited temple.
7 Luxor Museum Seeing the treasures in this beautiful museum.
History
Thebes (ancient Waset) became important in the Middle Kingdom period (2055–1650 BC). The 11th-dynasty Theban prince Montuhotep II (2055–2004 BC) reunited Upper and Lower Egypt, made Thebes his capital and increased Karnak’s importance as a cult centre to the local god Amun with a temple dedicated to him. The 12th-dynasty pharaohs (1985–1795 BC) moved their capital back north, but much of their immense wealth from expanded foreign trade and agriculture, and tribute from military expeditions made into Nubia and Asia, went to Thebes, which remained the religious capital. This 200-year period was one of the richest times throughout Egyptian history, which witnessed a great flourishing of architecture and the arts, and major advances in science.
It was the Thebans again, under Ahmose I, who, after the Second Intermediate Period (1650–1550 BC), drove out the ruling Asiatic Hyksos and unified Egypt. Because of his military victories and as the founder of the 18th dynasty, Ahmose was deified and worshipped at Thebes for hundreds of years. This was the beginning of the glorious New Kingdom (1550–1069 BC), when Thebes reached its apogee. It was home to tens of thousands of people, who helped construct many of its great monuments.
The greatest contributor of all to Thebes was probably Amenhotep III (1390–1352 BC). He made substantial additions to the temple complex at Karnak, and built his great palace, Malqata, on the west bank, with a large harbour for religious festivals and the largest memorial temple ever built. Very little of the latter is left beyond the so-called Colossi of Memnon, the largest monolithic statue ever carved. His son Amenhotep IV (1352–1336 BC), who later renamed himself Akhenaten, moved the capital from Thebes to his new city of Akhetaten (Tell Al Amarna), worshipped one god only (Aten, the solar god), and brought about dramatic changes in art and architecture. After his death, the powerful priesthood was soon reinstated under Akhenaten’s successor, Tutankhamun (1336–1327 BC), who built very little but became the best-known pharaoh ever when his tomb was discovered full of treasure in 1922. Ramses II (1279–1213 BC) may have exaggerated his military victories, but he too was a great builder and added the magnificent hypostyle hall to Karnak, other halls to Luxor Temple, and built the Ramesseum and two magnificent tombs in the Valley of the Kings for himself and his many sons.
The decline of Pharaonic rule was mirrored by Thebes’ gradual slide into insignificance: when the Persians sacked Thebes, it was clear the end was nigh. Mud-brick settlements clung to the once mighty Theban temples, and people hid within the stone walls against marauding desert tribes. Early Christians built churches in the temples, carved crosses on the walls and scratched out reliefs of the pagan gods. The area fell into obscurity in the 7th century AD after the Arab invasion, and the only reminder of its glorious past was the name bestowed on it by its Arab rulers: Al Uqsur (The Fortifications), giving modern Luxor its name. By the time European travellers arrived here in the 18th century, Luxor was little more than a large Upper Egyptian village, known more for its 12th-century saint, Abu Al Haggag, buried above the mound of Luxor Temple, than for its half-buried ruins.
The growth of Egyptomania changed that. Napoleon arrived in 1798 wanting to revive Egypt’s greatness and, with the publication of the Description de l’Egypte, did manage to reawaken interest in Egypt. European exhibitions of mummies, jewellery and other spectacular funerary artefacts from Theban tombs (often found by plundering adventurers rather than enquiring scholars) made Luxor an increasingly popular destination for travellers. By 1869, when Thomas Cook brought his first group of tourists to Egypt, Luxor was one of the highlights. Mass tourism had arrived and Luxor regained its place on the world map.
The 1960s saw the start of modern mass tourism on the Nile with Luxor as its epicentre, and more hotels and sights than anywhere else in southern Egypt. The town has since grown into a city of several hundred thousand people, almost all of them dependant on tourism. In the past couple of decades, there have been booms and crashes, the latest crash brought on by the riots that ended the presidencies of Hosni Mubarak and Mohammed Morsi. Tourist numbers have been down since then, and people in Luxor and elsewhere in the south have suffered.
RESOURCES
Luxor Travel Guide (http://luxor-news.blogspot.co.uk) Information on Luxor.
Theban Mapping Project (www.thebanmappingproject.com) History, images and news from the Valley of the Kings.
Flat Rental (www.flatsinluxor.co.uk) Accommodation, guide and tour bookings.
Luxor Times (http://luxortimesmagazine.blogspot.co.uk) The local English-language paper.
1Sights
Luxor sights are spread on the east and west banks of the Nile. Start on the east bank, where visitors will find most of the hotels, the modern city of Luxor and the temple complexes of Luxor and Karnak. The west bank, traditionally the ‘side of the dead’, is where the mortuary temples and necropolis are located.
Luxor – East Bank
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
7Shopping
8Information
1East Bank
Karnak
Karnak ( % 095-238-0270; Sharia Maabad Al Karnak; adult/student LE120/60, incl open-air museum LE150/75; 
h 6am-6pm; 
p ) is an extraordinary complex of sanctuaries, kiosks, pylons and obelisks dedicated to the Theban triad but also to the greater glory of the pharaohs. The site covers over 2 sq km; it’s large enough to contain about 10 cathedrals. At its heart is the Temple of Amun, the earthly ‘home’ of the local god. Built, added to, dismantled, restored, enlarged and decorated over nearly 1500 years, Karnak was the most important place of worship in Egypt during the New Kingdom.
The complex is dominated by the great Temple of Amun-Ra – one of the world’s largest religious complexes – with its famous hypostyle hall, a spectacular forest of giant papyrus-shaped columns. This main structure is surrounded by the houses of Amun’s wife Mut and their son Khonsu, two other huge temple complexes on this site. On its southern side, the Mut Temple Enclosure was once linked to the main temple by an avenue of ram-headed sphinxes. To the north is the Montu Temple Enclosure, which honoured the local Theban war god. The 3km paved avenue of human-headed sphinxes that once linked the great Temple of Amun at Karnak with Luxor Temple is now again being cleared. Most of what you can see was built by the powerful pharaohs of the 18th to 20th dynasties (1570–1090 BC), who spent fortunes on making their mark in this most sacred of places, which was then called Ipet-Sut, meaning ‘The Most Esteemed of Places’. Later pharaohs extended and rebuilt the complex, as did the Ptolemies and early Christians. The further into the complex you venture, the older the structures. The light is most beautiful in the early morning or later afternoon, and the temple is quieter then, as later in the morning tour buses bring day trippers from Hurghada. It pays to visit more than once, to make sense of the overwhelming jumble of ancient remains.
oAmun Temple EnclosureTemple
Amun-Ra was the local god of Karnak (Luxor) and during the New Kingdom, when the princes of Thebes ruled Egypt, he became the preeminent state god, with a temple that reflected his status. At the height of its power, the temple owned 421,000 head of cattle, 65 cities, 83 ships and 276,400 hectares of agricultural land and had 81,000 people working for it. The shell that remains, sacked by Assyrians and Persians, is still one of the world’s great archaeological sites, grand, beautiful and inspiring.
The Quay of Amun was the dock where the large boats carrying the statues of the gods moored during festivals. From paintings in the tomb of Nakht and elsewhere we know that there were palaces to the north of the quay and that these were surrounded by lush gardens. On the east side, a ramp slopes down to the processional avenue of ram-headed sphinxes. These lead to the massive unfinished first pylon, the last to be built, during the reign of Nectanebo I (30th dynasty). The inner side of the pylon still has the massive mud-brick construction ramp, up which blocks of stone for the pylon were dragged with rollers and ropes. Napoleon’s expedition recorded blocks still on the ramp.
AGreat Court
Behind the first pylon lies the Great Court, the largest area of the Karnak complex. To the left is the Shrine of Seti II, with three small chapels that held the sacred barques (boats) of Mut, Amun and Khonsu during the lead-up to the Opet Festival. In the southeastern corner (far right) is the well-preserved Temple of Ramses III, a miniature version of the pharaoh’s temple at Medinat Habu. The temple plan is simple and classic: pylon, open court, vestibule with four Osirid columns and four columns, hypostyle hall with eight columns and three barque chapels for Amun, Mut and Khonsu. At the centre of the court is a 21m column with a papyrus-shaped capital – the only survivor of ten columns that originally stood here – and a small alabaster altar, all that remains of the Kiosk of Taharka, the 25th-dynasty Nubian pharaoh.
The second pylon was begun by Horemheb, the last 18th-dynasty pharaoh, and continued by Ramses I and Ramses II, who also raised three colossal red-granite statues of himself on either side of the entrance; one is now destroyed.
AGreat Hypostyle Hall
Beyond the second pylon is the extraordinary Great Hypostyle Hall, one of the greatest religious monuments ever built. Covering 5500 sq m – enough space to contain both Rome’s St Peter’s Basilica and London’s St Paul’s Cathedral – the hall is an unforgettable forest of 134 towering stone pillars. Their papyrus shape symbolise a swamp, of which there were so many along the Nile. Ancient Egyptians believed that these plants surrounded the primeval mound on which life was first created. Each summer when the Nile began to flood, this hall and its columns would fill with several feet of water. Originally, the columns would have been brightly painted – some colour remains – and roofed, making it pretty dark away from the lit main axis. The size and grandeur of the pillars and the endless decorations can be overwhelming, so take your time, sit for a while and stare at the dizzying spectacle.
The hall was planned by Ramses I and built by Seti I and Ramses II. Note the difference in quality between the delicate raised relief in the northern part, by Seti I, and the much cruder sunken relief work, added by Ramses II in the southern part of the hall. The cryptic scenes on the inner walls were intended for the priesthood and the royalty who understood the religious context, but the outer walls are easier to comprehend, showing the pharaoh’s military prowess and strength, and his ability to bring order to chaos.
On the back of the third pylon, built by Amenhotep III, to the right the pharaoh is shown sailing the sacred barque during the Opet Festival. Tuthmosis I (1504–1492 BC) created a narrow court between the third and fourth pylons, where four obelisks stood, two each for Tuthmosis I and Tuthmosis III (1479–1425 BC). Only the bases remain except for one, 22m high, raised for Tuthmosis I.
AInner Temple
Beyond the fourth pylon is the Hypostyle Hall of Tuthmosis III built by Tuthmosis I in precious wood, and altered by Tuthmosis III with 14 columns and a stone roof. In this court stands one of the two magnificent 30m-high obelisks erected by Queen Hatshepsut (1473–1458 BC) to the glory of her ‘father’ Amun. The other is broken, but the upper shaft lies near the sacred lake. The Obelisk of Hatshepsut is the tallest in Egypt, its tip originally covered in electrum (a commonly used alloy of gold and silver). After Hatshepsut’s death, her stepson Tuthmosis III eradicated all signs of her reign and had them walled into a sandstone structure.
The ruined fifth pylon, constructed by Tuthmosis I, leads to another colonnade now badly ruined, followed by the small sixth pylon, raised by Tuthmosis III, who also built the pair of red-granite columns in the vestibule beyond, carved with the lotus and the papyrus, the symbols of Upper and Lower Egypt. Nearby, on the left, are two huge statues of Amun and the goddess Amunet, carved in the reign of Tutankhamun.
The original Sanctuary of Amun, the very core of the temple and the place of darkness where the god resided, was built by Tuthmosis III. Destroyed when the temple was sacked by the Persians, it was rebuilt in granite by Alexander the Great’s successor and half-brother, the fragile, dim-witted Philip Arrhidaeus (323–317 BC).
East of the shrine of Philip Arrhidaeus is the oldest-known part of the temple, the Middle Kingdom Court, where Sesostris I built a shrine, of which the foundation walls have been found. On the northern wall of the court is the Wall of Records, a running tally of the organised tribute the pharaoh exacted in honour of Amun from his subjugated lands.
AGreat Festival Hall of Tuthmosis III
At the back of the Middle Kingdom Court is the Great Festival Hall of Tuthmosis III. It is an unusual structure with carved stone columns imitating tent poles, perhaps a reference to the pharaoh’s life under canvas on his frequent military expeditions abroad. The columned vestibule that lies beyond, generally referred to as the Botanical Gardens, has wonderful, detailed relief scenes of the flora and fauna that the pharaoh had encountered during his campaigns in Syria and Palestine, and had brought back to Egypt.
ASecondary Axis of the Amun Temple Enclosure
The courtyard between the Hypostyle Hall and the seventh pylon, built by Tuthmosis III, is known as the cachette court, as thousands of stone and bronze statues were discovered here in 1903. The priests had the old statues and temple furniture they no longer needed buried around 300 BC. Most statues were sent to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, but some remain, standing in front of the seventh pylon, including four of Tuthmosis III on the left.
The well-preserved eighth pylon, built by Queen Hatshepsut, is the oldest part of the north–south axis of the temple, and one of the earliest pylons in Karnak. Carved on it is a text she falsely attributed to Tuthmosis I, justifying her taking the throne of Egypt.
East of the seventh and eighth pylons is the sacred lake, where, according to Herodotus, the priests of Amun bathed twice daily and nightly for ritual purity. On the northwestern side of the lake is part of the Fallen Obelisk of Hatshepsut showing her coronation, and a giant scarab in stone dedicated by Amenhotep III to Khepri, a form of the sun god.
In the southwestern corner of the enclosure is the Temple of Khonsu, god of the moon, and son of Amun and Mut. It can be reached from a door in the southern wall of the Hypostyle Hall of the Temple of Amun, via a path through various blocks of stone. The temple, mostly the work of Ramses III and enlarged by later Ramesside rulers, lies north of Euergetes’ Gate and the avenue of sphinxes leading to Luxor Temple. The temple pylon leads via a peristyle court to a hypostyle hall with eight columns carved with figures of Ramses XI and the High Priest Herihor, who effectively ruled Upper Egypt at the time. The next chamber housed the sacred barque of Khonsu.
Mut Temple EnclosureTemple
(adult/student LE40/20)
From the 10th pylon, an avenue of sphinxes leads to the partly excavated southern enclosure – the Precinct of Mut, consort of Amun. The Temple of Mut was built by Amenhotep III and consists of a sanctuary, a hypostyle hall and two courts. It has been restored and officially opened to the public.
Amenhotep also set up more than 700 black granite statues of the lioness goddess Sekhmet, Mut’s northern counterpart, which are believed to form a calendar, with two statues for every day of the year, receiving offerings each morning and evening. The main avenue of sphinxes from Luxor Temple enters the Karnak complex at the front of the Mut Temple.
Montu Temple EnclosureTemple
Inside the Amun Temple Enclosure there is a gate in the northern wall (on your left as you enter) near the Temple of Ptah. The gate, which is usually locked, leads to the Montu Temple Enclosure. Montu, the falcon-headed warrior god, was one of the original deities of Thebes and this temple was one of the original Middle Kingdom structures at Karnak. The ruins that survive were rebuilt by Amenhotep III and modified by others. The complex is very dilapidated.
Open-Air MuseumMuseum
(adult/student LE60/30, incl Amun Temple Enclosure LE150/70; h6am-5.30pm summer, to 4.30pm winter)
Off to the left (north) of the first court of the Amun Temple Enclosure is Karnak’s open-air museum. The word ‘museum’ and the fact that there is so much else to see in Karnak means that most visitors skip this collection of stones, statues and shrines, but it is definitely worth a look.
The well-preserved chapels include the White Chapel of Sesostris I, one of the oldest and most beautiful monuments in Karnak, which has wonderful Middle Kingdom reliefs; the Red Chapel of Hatshepsut, its red quartzite blocks reassembled in 2000; and the Alabaster Chapel of Amenhotep I. The museum also contains a collection of statuary found throughout the temple complex. Buy the combo ticket at the main ticket office.
Luxor Temple & Museums
Luxor TempleTemple
(%095-237-2408; Corniche An Nil; adult/student LE100/50; h6am-9pm)
Largely built by the New Kingdom pharaohs Amenhotep III (1390–1352 BC) and Ramses II (1279–1213 BC), this temple is a strikingly graceful monument in the heart of the modern town. Also known as the Southern Sanctuary, its main function was during the annual Opet celebrations, when the statues of Amun, Mut and Khonsu were brought from Karnak, along the Avenue of Sphinxes, and reunited here during the inundation.
Visit early when the temple opens, before the crowds arrive, or later at sunset when the stones glow. Whenever you go, be sure to return at night when the temple is lit up, creating an eerie spectacle as shadow and light play off the reliefs and colonnades.
Amenhotep III greatly enlarged an older shrine built by Hatshepsut, and rededicated the massive temple as Amun’s southern ipet (harem), the private quarters of the god. The structure was further added to by Tutankhamun, Ramses II, Alexander the Great and various Romans. The Romans constructed a military fort around the temple that the Arabs later called Al Uqsur (The Fortifications), which was later corrupted to give modern Luxor its name.
In ancient times the temple would have been surrounded by a warren of mud-brick houses, shops and workshops, which now lie under the modern town, but after the decline of the city people moved into the – by then – partly covered temple complex and built their city within it. In the 14th century, a mosque was built in one of the interior courts for the local sheikh (holy man) Abu Al Haggag. Excavation works, begun in 1885, have cleared away the village and debris of centuries to uncover what can be seen of the temple today, but the mosque remains and has been restored after a fire.
The temple is less complex than Karnak, but here again you walk back in time the deeper you go into it. In front of the temple is the beginning of the Avenue of Sphinxes that ran all the way to the temples at Karnak 3km to the north, and is now almost entirely excavated.
The massive 24m-high first pylon was raised by Ramses II and decorated with reliefs of his military exploits, including the Battle of Kadesh. The pylon was originally fronted by six colossal statues of Ramses II, four seated and two standing, but only two of the seated figures and one standing remain. Of the original pair of pink-granite obelisks that stood here, one remains while the other stands in the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Beyond lies the Great Court of Ramses II, surrounded by a double row of columns with lotus-bud capitals, the walls of which are decorated with scenes of the pharaoh making offerings to the gods. On the south (rear) wall is a procession of 17 sons of Ramses II with their names and titles. In the northwestern corner of the court is the earlier triple-barque shrine built by Hatshepsut and usurped by her stepson Tuthmosis III for Amun, Mut and Khonsu. Over the southeastern side hangs the 14th-century Mosque of Abu Al Haggag, dedicated to a local sheikh, entered from Sharia Maabad Al Karnak, outside the temple precinct.
Beyond the court is the older, splendid Colonnade of Amenhotep III, built as the grand entrance to the Temple of Amun of the Opet. The walls behind the elegant open papyrus columns were decorated during the reign of the young pharaoh Tutankhamun and celebrate the return to Theban orthodoxy following the wayward reign of the previous pharaoh, Akhenaten. The Opet Festival is depicted in lively detail, with the pharaoh, nobility and common people joining the triumphal procession. Look out for the drummers and acrobats doing backbends.
South of the Colonnade is the Sun Court of Amenhotep III, once enclosed on three sides by double rows of towering papyrus-bundle columns, the best preserved of which, with their architraves extant, are those on the eastern and western sides. In 1989 workmen found a cache of 26 statues here, buried by priests in Roman times, now displayed in the Luxor Museum.
Beyond lies the Hypostyle Hall, the first room of the original Opet temple, with four rows of eight columns each, leading to the temple’s main rooms. The central chamber on the axis south of the Hypostyle Hall was the cult sanctuary of Amun, stuccoed over by the Romans in the 3rd century AD and painted with scenes of Roman officials: some of this is still intact and vivid. Through this chamber, either side of which are chapels dedicated to Mut and Khonsu, is the four-columned antechamber where offerings were made to Amun. Immediately behind the chamber is the Barque Shrine of Amun, rebuilt by Alexander the Great, with reliefs portraying him as an Egyptian pharaoh.
To the east a doorway leads into two rooms. The first is Amenhotep III’s ‘birth room’ with scenes of his symbolic divine birth. You can see the moment of his conception, when the fingers of the god touch those of the queen and ‘his dew filled her body’, according to the accompanying hieroglyphic caption. The Sanctuary of Amenhotep III is the last chamber; it still has the remains of the stone base on which Amun’s statue stood, and although it was once the most sacred part of the temple, the busy street that now runs directly behind it makes it less atmospheric.
oLuxor MuseumMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Corniche An Nil; adult/student LE120/60; h 9am-2pm & 5-9pm)
This wonderful museum has a well-chosen and brilliantly displayed and explained collection of antiquities dating from the end of the Old Kingdom right through to the Mamluk period, mostly gathered from the Theban temples and necropolis. The ticket price puts off many, but don’t let that stop you: this is one of the most rewarding sights in Luxor and one of the best museums in Egypt.
The ground-floor gallery has several masterpieces, including a well-preserved limestone relief of Tuthmosis III (No 140), an exquisitely carved statue of Tuthmosis III in greywacke from the Temple of Karnak (No 2), an alabaster figure of Amenhotep III protected by the great crocodile god Sobek (No 155), and one of the few examples of Old Kingdom art found at Thebes, a relief of Unas-ankh (No 183), found in his tomb on the west bank.
A new wing was opened in 2004, dedicated to the glory of Thebes during the New Kingdom period. The highlight, and the main reason for the new construction, is the two royal mummies, Ahmose I (founder of the 18th dynasty) and the mummy some believe to be Ramses I (founder of the 19th dynasty and father of Seti I), beautifully displayed without their wrappings in dark rooms. Other well-labelled displays illustrate the military might of Thebes during the New Kingdom, the age of Egypt’s empire-building, including chariots and weapons. On the upper floor the military theme is diluted with scenes from daily life showing the technology used in the New Kingdom. Multimedia displays show workers harvesting papyrus and processing it into sheets to be used for writing. Young boys are shown learning to read and write hieroglyphs beside a display of a scribe’s implements and an architect’s tools.
Back in the old building, moving up via the ramp to the 1st floor, you come face-to-face with a seated granite figure of the legendary scribe Amenhotep (No 4), son of Hapu, the great official eventually deified in Ptolemaic times and who, as overseer of all the pharaoh’s works under Amenhotep III (1390–1352 BC), was responsible for many of Thebes’ greatest buildings. One of the most interesting exhibits is the Wall of Akhenaten, a series of small sandstone blocks named talatat (threes) by workmen – probably because their height and length was about three hand lengths – that came from Amenhotep IV’s contribution at Karnak before he changed his name to Akhenaten and left Thebes for Tell Al Amarna. His building was demolished and about 40,000 blocks used to fill in Karnak’s ninth pylon were found in the late 1960s and partially reassembled here. The scenes showing Akhenaten, his wife Nefertiti and temple life are a rare example of decoration from a temple of Aten. Further highlights are treasures from Tutankhamun’s tomb, including shabti (servant) figures, model boats, sandals, arrows and a series of gilded bronze rosettes from his funeral pall.
A ramp back down to the ground floor leaves you close to the exit and beside a black-and-gold wooden head of the cow deity Mehit-Weret, an aspect of the goddess Hathor, which was also found in Tutankhamun’s tomb.
On the left just before the exit is a small hall containing 16 of 22 statues that were uncovered in Luxor Temple in 1989. All are magnificent examples of ancient Egyptian sculpture, but pride of place at the end of the hall is given to an almost pristine 2.45m-tall quartzite statue of a muscular Amenhotep III, wearing a pleated kilt.
Mummification MuseumMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Corniche An Nil; adult/student LE80/40; h 9am-2pm)
Housed in the former visitors centre on Luxor’s corniche, the Mummification Museum has well-presented exhibits explaining the art of mummification. The museum is small and some may find the entrance fee overpriced. Also, although it should be open throughout the day, a lack of visitors means that it sometimes closes for several hours after midday.
On display are the well-preserved mummy of a 21st-dynasty high priest of Amun, Maserharti, and a host of mummified animals. Vitrines show the tools and materials used in the mummification process – check out the small spoon and metal spatula used for scraping the brain out of the skull. Several artefacts that were crucial to the mummy’s journey to the afterlife have also been included, as well as some picturesque painted coffins. Presiding over the entrance is a beautiful little statue of the jackal god, Anubis, the god of embalming who helped Isis turn her brother-husband Osiris into the first mummy.
Luxor – West Bank
1West Bank
The West Bank (illustration) is a world away from the noise and bustle of Luxor town on the east bank. Taking a taxi across the bridge, 6km south of the centre, or crossing on the old ferry, you are immediately in lush countryside, with bright-green sugarcane fields along irrigation canals and clusters of colourful houses, all against the background of the desert and the Theban hills. Coming towards the end of the cultivated land, you start to notice huge sandstone blocks lying in the middle of fields, gaping black holes in the rocks and giant sandstone forms on the edge of the cultivation below. Magnificent memorial temples were built on the flood plains here, where the pharaoh’s cult could be perpetuated by the devotions of his priests and subjects, while his body and worldly wealth, and the bodies of his wives and children, were laid in splendidly decorated tombs hidden in the hills.
From the New Kingdom onwards, the necropolis also supported a large living population of artisans, labourers, temple priests and guards, who devoted their lives to the construction and maintenance of this city of the dead, and who protected the tombs full of treasure from eager robbers. The artisans perfected the techniques of tomb building, decoration and concealment, and passed the secrets down through their families. They all built their own tombs here.
Until a generation ago, villagers used tombs to shelter from the extremes of the desert climate and, until recently, many lived in houses built over the Tombs of the Nobles. These beautifully painted houses were a picturesque sight to anyone visiting the west bank. However, over the past 100 years or so the Supreme Council of Antiquities has been trying to relocate the inhabitants of Al Gurna. In 2007, their houses were demolished, and the families were moved to a huge new village of small breeze-block houses 8km north of the Valley of the Kings. A few houses have been left standing, although it has not been decided what use they should be put to.
LUXOR IN…
Two Days
If you’ve only got two days in Luxor, your schedule will be full on. Start the first day on the east bank with an early morning visit to the Temples of Karnak. After Karnak stroll along the corniche to the Luxor Museum. After a late lunch at Sofra, visit Luxor Temple in the golden glow of the afternoon. Return after dinner to see the temple floodlit. The next day take a taxi for a day to the west bank, starting early again to avoid the crowds at the Valley of the Kings. On the way back visit Howard Carter’s House, with its brilliant replica of Tutankhamun’s burial chamber, and the Memorial Temple of Hatshepsut. After lunch visit the Tombs of the Nobles, or the wonderful temple of Ramses III at Medinat Habu.
Four Days
Four days allows for a more leisurely schedule. On the west bank, you could visit the Tombs of the Nobles, the Ramesseum and the Temple of Seti I, and on the last day revisit Karnak in the morning and cross the river to see the ancient workers’ village and tombs at Deir Al Medina. Alternatively you could make a day-trip to the amazing temples of Dendara and Abydos.
Tickets
The Antiquities Inspectorate ticket office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; main road, 3km inland from ferry landing; h
6am-5pm), beyond the Colossi of Memnon, sells tickets to most sites except for the Temple at Deir Al Bahri, the Assasif Tombs (available at Deir Al Bahri ticket office), the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens. Check here first to see which tickets are available, and which tombs are open. All sites are officially open from 6am to 5pm.
Photography is not permitted in any tombs, and guards may confiscate film or memory cards. Alternatively, they might see you using a camera or phone as an opportunity to extract some extra cash. Tickets are valid only for the day of purchase, and no refunds are given.
Gezira Village to Ticket Office
Art from People to PeopleArts Centre
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-5529, 012-2079-7310; https://art-frompeople.com; Gezira; h 4-8pm Sat, Mon & Thu)
A new venture in Luxor, this art gallery and centre is located in a small place behind the Nile Valley Hotel. Run by Eiad Oraby, it showcases local artists as well as holding art classes and events for kids, providing a much-needed creative hub.
Theban Community LibraryLibrary
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0523-8113; www.tmp-library.org; near New Gourna; h 3.30-8.30pm; 
c ) 
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The latest project from Professor Kent Weeks and the Theban Mapping Project is the first open library in Luxor, a free service with general books in Arabic and English, and a good collection on archaeology and issues related to conservation. There are regular evening lectures. More information is available from the librarian, Ahmed Hassan, or via their website or Facebook page.
Open to all, the library is used by local archaeologists and guides, school children (there is no other library that serves them) and people from the villages. The latest additions include books on diet and prenatal care for local mothers. The library is self-funding and welcomes donations.
New GurnaVillage
Hassan Fathy’s mud-brick village lies just past the railway track on the road from the ferry to the Antiquities Inspectorate ticket office. Although built between 1946 and 1952 to rehouse the inhabitants of Old Gurna, who lived above and around the Tombs of the Nobles, the village became a showcase of utilitarian mud-brick design. The stunning buildings had Hassan Fathy’s signature domes and vaults, thick mud-brick walls and natural ventilation.
The project failed in its original intention because most inhabitants of Old Gurna refused to move into the new houses, unhappy at the idea of being moved from their old homes and their livelihoods, which some claim was selling trinkets to tourists and others claim was digging up treasures from the ancient burials beneath the houses. Today much of Fathy’s work is in tatters, the original houses increasingly replaced with breeze block, although the beautiful mud-brick mosque and theatre survive. Unesco has recognised the need to safeguard the village, but its plans have stalled. A short film about the village is available at https://vimeo.com/15514401.
Colossi of MemnonMonument
(MAP GOOGLE MAP) F
The two faceless Colossi of Memnon, originally representing Pharaoh Amenhotep III, rising majestically about 18m from the plain, are the first monuments tourists see when they visit the west bank. These magnificent colossi, each cut from a single block of stone and weighing 1000 tonnes, sat at the eastern entrance to the funerary temple of Amenophis III, the largest on the west bank. Egyptologists are currently excavating the temple and their discoveries can be seen behind the colossi.
The colossi were already a great tourist attraction during Graeco-Roman times, when the statues were attributed to Memnon, the legendary African king who was slain by Achilles during the Trojan War. The Greeks and Romans considered it good luck to hear the whistling sound emitted by the northern statue at sunrise, which they believed to be the cry of Memnon greeting his mother Eos, the goddess of dawn. She in turn would weep tears of dew for his untimely death. All this was probably due to a crack in the colossus’ upper body, which appeared after the 27 BC earthquake. As the heat of the morning sun baked the dew-soaked stone, sand particles would break off and resonate inside the cracks in the structure. After Septimus Severus (193–211 AD) repaired the statue in the 3rd century AD, Memnon’s plaintive greeting was heard no more.
The colossi are just off the road, before you reach the Antiquities Inspectorate ticket office, and are usually being snapped and filmed by an army of tourists. Yet few visitors have any idea that these giant enthroned figures are set in front of the main entrance to an equally impressive funerary temple, the largest in Egypt, the remains of which are slowly being brought to light.
Some tiny parts of the temple that stood behind the colossi remain and more is being uncovered now that the excavation is underway. Many statues, among them the huge dyad of Amenhotep III and his wife Tiye that now dominates the central court of the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, were later dragged off by other pharaohs, but much still remains beneath the silt. A stele, also now in the Egyptian Museum, describes the temple as being built from ‘white sandstone, with gold throughout, a floor covered with silver, and doors covered with electrum’. No gold or silver has yet been found, but if you wander behind the colossi, you can see the huge area littered with statues and masonry that had long lain under the ground.
Valley of the Kings
The west bank of Luxor had been the site of royal burials since around 2100 BC, but it was the pharaohs of the New Kingdom period (1550–1069 BC) who chose this isolated valley dominated by the pyramid-shaped mountain peak of Al Qurn (The Horn). Once called the Great Necropolis of Millions of Years of Pharaoh, or the Place of Truth, the Valley of the Kings (Wadi Biban Al Muluk; MAP; www.thebanmappingproject.com; adult/student for 3 tombs LE160/80; h
6am-5pm, last ticket sold at 4pm) has 63 magnificent royal tombs.
The tombs have suffered greatly from treasure hunters, floods and, in recent years, mass tourism: carbon dioxide, friction and the humidity produced by the average 2.8g of sweat left by each visitor have affected the reliefs and the stability of paintings that were made on plaster laid over limestone. The Department of Antiquities has installed dehumidifiers and glass screens in the worst-affected tombs. They have also introduced a rotation system: a limited number of tombs are open to the public at any one time. The entry ticket gains access to three tombs, with extra tickets to see the tombs of Ay, Tutankhamun, Seti I and Ramses VI.
The road into the Valley of the Kings is a gradual, dry, hot climb, so be prepared, especially if you are riding a bicycle. Also be ready to run the gauntlet of the tourist bazaar, which sells soft drinks, ice creams and snacks alongside the tat. The air-conditioned Valley of the Kings Visitors Centre & Ticket Booth (MAP) has a good model of the valley, a movie about Carter’s discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun and toilets (there are Portakabins higher up, but this is the one to use). A tuf-tuf (a little electrical train) ferries visitors between the visitors centre and the tombs (it can be hot during summer). The ride costs LE4. It’s worth having a torch to illuminate badly lit areas but you cannot take a camera – photography is forbidden in all tombs.
The best source of information about the tombs, including detailed descriptions of their decoration and history, can be found on the Theban Mapping Project website. Some tombs have additional entry fees and tickets.
Highlights include the Tomb of Ay, Tomb of Horemheb (KV 57), Tomb of Ramses III (KV 11), Tomb of Ramses VI (KV 9) and Tomb of Seti I (KV 17).
Tomb of Ramses VII (KV 1)Tomb
Near the main entrance is the small, unfinished tomb of Ramses VII (1136–1129 BC). Only 44m long – short for a royal tomb because of Ramses’ sudden death – it consists of a corridor, a burial chamber and an unfinished third chamber. His architects hastily widened what was to have been the tomb’s second corridor, making it a burial chamber, and the pharaoh was laid to rest in a pit covered with a sarcophagus lid.
Niches for Canopic jars are carved into the pit’s sides, a feature unique to this tomb. Walls on the corridor leading to the chamber are decorated with fairly well preserved excerpts from the Book of Caverns and the Opening of the Mouth ritual, while the burial chamber is decorated with passages from the Book of the Earth. It was later used by Coptic hermits, as their graffiti suggests.
WHAT TO BRING
When visiting the west bank sights, bring plenty of water (it is available at some sights, but you should overestimate the amount you will need). A sun hat, sunglasses and sun protector are also essential. Small change for baksheesh is much needed, as guardians rely on tips to augment their pathetic salaries; LE10 or LE20 for each should be enough for them to either leave you in peace, or to open a door or reflect light on a particularly beautiful painting. A torch (flashlight) can come in handy.
Tomb of Ramses IV (KV 2)Tomb
Originally intended to be much larger, KV 2 was cut short at 89m on the early death of the pharaoh (1147 BC) and a pillared hall was converted to be the burial chamber. The sarcophagus is in place with a magnificent goddess Nut filling the ceiling above it. Close to the entrance of the valley, this tomb was opened in antiquity and inhabited (there is Greek, Roman and Coptic graffiti), and used as a hotel by many 18th- and 19th-century visitors.
The paintings in the burial chamber have deteriorated, but there is a wonderful image of the goddess Nut, stretched across the blue ceiling, and it is the only tomb to contain the text of the Book of Nut, with a description of the path taken by the sun every day. The red-granite sarcophagus, though empty, is one of the largest in the valley. The discovery of an ancient plan of the tomb on papyrus (now in the Turin Museum) shows the sarcophagus was originally enclosed by four large shrines similar to those in Tutankhamun’s tomb. The mummy of Ramses IV was later reburied in the tomb of Amenhotep II (KV 35), and is now in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
KV 5: THE GREATEST FIND SINCE TUTANKHAMUN
In 1995 American archaeologist Dr Kent Weeks discovered the largest tomb in Egypt, believed to be the burial place of the many sons of Ramses II. It was immediately hailed as the greatest find since that of Tutankhamun, or as one London newspaper put it: ‘The Mummy of all Tombs’.
In 1987 Weeks had located the entrance to tomb KV 5, which James Burton Carter had uncovered in the 1820s but had thought was a small tomb as it was filled with silt and sand. The entrance to the tomb was then lost beneath debris from other excavations. When Weeks and his team cleared the entrance chambers, they found pottery, fragments of sarcophagi and wall decorations, which led the professor to believe it was the tomb of the Sons of Ramses II.
Then, in 1995, Weeks unearthed a doorway leading to an incredible 121 chambers and corridors, making the tomb many times larger and more complex than any other found in Egypt. One chamber has 16 pillars, more than any other in the Valley of the Kings. Clearing the debris from this unique and enormous tomb has been a painstaking and dangerous task. Not only does every bucketful have to be sifted for fragments of pottery, bone and reliefs, but major engineering work had to be done to shore up the structure of the 440m-long tomb. Progress is slow, but Weeks speculates that it has as many as 150 chambers. The excavation can be followed on the excellent website www.thebanmappingproject.com.
Tomb of Ramses IX (KV 6)Tomb
Only half decorated at the time of the king’s death and open since antiquity, this is not the most interesting tomb in the valley, but it is one the most popular because it has a very gently shelving shaft and is near the entrance to the valley. Its large antechamber is decorated with animals, serpents and demons from the Book of the Dead. There is also a pillared hall and short hallway before the burial chamber.
On either side of the gate on the rear wall are two figures of priests, both dressed in panther-skin robes and sporting a ceremonial sidelock. The walls of the burial chamber feature the Book of Amduat, the Book of Caverns and the Book of the Earth; the Book of the Heavens is represented on the ceiling. Although it is unfinished, it was the last tomb in the valley to have so much of its decoration completed, and the paintings are relatively well preserved.
Tomb of Merenptah (KV 8)Tomb
The second-largest tomb in the valley, Merenptah’s tomb has been open since antiquity and has its share of Greek and Coptic graffiti. Floods have damaged the lower part of the walls of the long tunnel-like tomb, but the upper parts have well-preserved reliefs. The corridors are decorated with the Book of the Dead, the Book of Gates and the Book of Amduat. Beyond a shaft is a false burial chamber with two pillars decorated with the Book of Gates.
Ramses II lived for so long that 12 of his sons died before he did, so it was finally his 13th son, Merenptah (1213–1203 BC), who succeeded him in his 60s. The pharaoh was originally buried inside four stone sarcophagi: three of granite (the lid of the second is still in situ, with an effigy of Merenptah on top), and the fourth and innermost of alabaster. In a rare mistake by ancient Egyptian engineers, the outer sarcophagus did not fit through the tomb entrance and its gates had to be hacked away. Much of the decoration in the burial chamber has faded, but it remains an impressive room, with a sunken floor and brick niches on the front and rear walls.
DON’T MISS
The Best Tombs
With so many tombs to choose from, these are the highlights of the Theban necropolis:
Deir Al Medina
Tomb of Tutankhamun (KV 62)Tomb
(MAP; Valley of the Kings; adult/student LE200/100, plus Valley of the Kings ticket; h 6am-5pm)
The story of the celebrated discovery of the famous tomb and all the fabulous treasures it contained far outshines the reality of the small tomb of a short-lived pharaoh. Tutankhamun’s tomb is one of the least impressive in the valley and bears all the signs of a rather hasty completion and inglorious burial, as well as significant damage to the decorations. In spite of this and of the existence of a more instructive replica, many people choose to visit.
The Egyptologist Howard Carter slaved away for six seasons in the valley and in the end was rewarded with the discovery of the resting place of Tutankhamun, with all its treasures, the most impressive haul ever made in Egypt. The first step was found on 4 November 1922, and on 5 November the rest of the steps and a sealed doorway came to light. Carter wired Lord Carnarvon to join him in Egypt immediately for the opening of what he hoped was the completely intact tomb of Tutankhamun. When he looked inside, he saw what he famously described as ‘wonderful things’.
The son of Akhenaten and one of Akhenaten’s sisters, Tutankhamun ruled briefly (1336–1327 BC) and died young, with no great battles or buildings to his credit, so there was little time to build a tomb. The tomb had been partially robbed twice in antiquity, but its priceless cache of treasures vindicated Carter’s dream beyond even his wildest imaginings. Four chambers were crammed with jewellery, furniture, statues, chariots, musical instruments, weapons, boxes, jars and food. Even the later discovery that many had been stuffed haphazardly into the wrong boxes by necropolis officials ‘tidying up’ after the ancient robberies does not detract from their dazzling wealth. Some archaeologists believe that Tutankhamun was perhaps buried with all the regalia of the unpopular Amarna royal line, as some of it is inscribed with the names of his father Akhenaten and the mysterious Smenkhkare (1388–1336 BC), who some Egyptologists believe was Nefertiti ruling as pharaoh.
Most of the treasure is in the Cairo Museum, with a few pieces in Luxor Museum: only Tutankhamun’s mummy in its gilded wooden coffin and his sarcophagus are in situ. The burial chamber walls are decorated by chubby figures of the pharaoh before the gods, painted against a yellow-gold background. The wall at the foot end of the sarcophagus shows scenes of the pharaoh’s funeral; the 12 squatting apes from the Book of Amduat, representing the 12 hours of the night, are featured on the opposite wall.
The extra ticket needed to enter the tomb can be bought at the Entrance Gate & Ticket Office for Tutankhamun’s Tomb (MAP).
An exact replica of the tomb and sacrophagus, as well as a full explanation of the rediscovery of the tomb, has been installed in the grounds of Howard Carter’s house.
Work was underway at the time of writing to determine whether there is another chamber beyond the back wall of the burial chamber: Egyptologist Nicholas Reeves has suggested that the tomb might originally have been used to bury Nefertiti, whose remains – and perhaps her treasure – might lie beyond the wall.
oTomb of Ramses VI (KV 9)Tomb
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Valley of the Kings; adult/student LE80/40, plus Valley of the Kings ticket; h 6am-5pm)
With some of the broadest corridors, longest shafts (117m) and greatest variety of decoration, KV 9 is one of the most spectacular tombs in the valley. Started by Ramses V and finished by Ramses VI, it is a feast for the eyes, much of its surface covered with intact hieroglyphs and paintings. The burial chamber has an unfinished pit in the floor and a magnificent figure of Nut and scenes from the Book of the Day and Book of the Night.
Tutankhamun’s tomb remained intact until 1922 largely thanks to the existence of the neighbouring tomb of Ramses VI, which acted as an unwitting cloak for the older tomb’s entrance. KV 9 was begun for the ephemeral Ramses V (1147–1143 BC) and continued by Ramses VI (1143–1136 BC), with both pharaohs apparently buried here; the names and titles of Ramses V still appear in the first half of the tomb. Following the tomb’s ransacking a mere 20 years after burial, the mummies of both Ramses V and Ramses VI were moved to Amenhotep II’s tomb where they were found in 1898 and taken to Cairo.
Although the tomb’s plastering was not finished, its fine decoration is well preserved, with an emphasis on astronomical scenes and texts. Extracts from the Book of Gates and the Book of Caverns cover the entrance corridor. These continue into the midsection of the tomb and well room, with the addition of the Book of the Heavens. Nearer the burial chamber the walls are adorned with extracts from the Book of Amduat. The burial chamber itself is beautifully decorated, with a superb double image of Nut framing the Book of the Day and Book of the Night on the ceiling. This nocturnal landscape in black and gold shows the sky goddess swallowing the sun each evening to give birth to it each morning in an endless cycle of new life designed to revive the souls of the dead pharaohs. The walls of the chamber are filled with fine images of Ramses VI with various deities, as well as scenes from the Book of the Earth, showing the sun god’s progress through the night, the gods who help him and the forces of darkness trying to stop him reaching the dawn. Look out for the decapitated kneeling figures of the sun god’s enemies around the base of the chamber walls and the black-coloured executioners who turn the decapitated bodies upside down to render them as helpless as possible.
Tomb of Ramses III (KV 11)Tomb
One of the most popular tombs in the valley, KV 11 is also one of the most interesting and best preserved. Originally started by Sethnakht (1186–1184 BC), the project was abandoned when workers hit the shaft of another tomb (KV10). Work resumed under Ramses III (1184–1153 BC), the last of Egypt’s warrior pharaohs, with the corridor turning to the right, then left. It continues deep (125m overall) into the mountain and opens into a magnificent eight-pillared burial chamber.
The wonderful decorations include colourful painted sunken reliefs featuring the traditional ritual texts (Litany of Ra, Book of Gates etc) and Ramses before the gods. Unusual here are the secular scenes, in the small side rooms of the entrance corridor, showing foreign tributes, such as highly detailed pottery imported from the Aegean, the royal armoury, boats and, in the last of these side chambers, the blind harpists that gave the tomb one of its alternative names: ‘Tomb of the Harpers’. When the Scottish traveller James Bruce included a copy of this image in his Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, he was laughed out of London after its publication in 1790.
In the chamber beyond is an aborted tunnel where ancient builders ran into the neighbouring tomb. They shifted the axis of the tomb to the west and built a corridor leading to a pillared hall, with walls decorated with scenes from the Book of Gates. There is also ancient graffiti on the rear right pillar describing the reburial of the pharaoh during the 21st dynasty (1069–945 BC). The remainder of the tomb is only partially excavated and structurally weak.
Ramses III’s sarcophagus is in the Louvre in Paris, its detailed lid is in the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge and his mummy – found in the Deir Al Bahri cache – is now in Cairo’s Egyptian Museum. It was the model for Boris Karloff’s character in the 1930s film The Mummy.
Tomb of Horemheb (KV 57)Tomb
Horemheb was Tutankhamun’s general, who succeeded Ay, Tutankhamun’s briefly reigning tutor. His tomb has beautiful decoration that shows the first use of bas-relief in the valley. This was also the first time the Book of Gates was used to decorate a tomb in the burial chamber. Some 128m long and very steep, this was also the first tomb to run straight and not have a right-angle bend. Horemheb, who was not of royal birth, ruled for 28 years and restored the cult of Amun.
This tomb was discovered filled with ransacked pieces of the royal funerary equipment, including a number of wooden figurines that were taken to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Horemheb (1323–1295 BC) brought stability after the turmoil of Akhenaten’s reign. He had already built a lavish tomb in Saqqara, but abandoned it for this tomb. The various stages of decoration in the burial chamber give a fascinating glimpse into the process of tomb decoration.
From the entrance, a steep flight of steps and an equally steep passage lead to a well shaft decorated with superb figures of Horemheb before the gods. Notice Hathor’s blue-and-black striped wig and the lotus crown of the young god Nefertum, all executed against a grey-blue background. The six-pillared burial chamber, decorated with part of the Book of Gates, remains partially unfinished, showing how the decoration was applied by following a grid system in red ink over which the figures were drawn in black prior to their carving and painting. The pharaoh’s empty red-granite sarcophagus carved with protective figures of goddesses with outstretched wings remains in the tomb; his mummy is missing.
Tomb of Amenhotep II (KV 35)Tomb
This 91m-long tomb was built for Amenhotep II (sometimes also called Amenophis II), who succeeded his father, the great king Tuthmosis III. Amenophis died around 1400 BC after a 26-year reign, long enough to excavate this large and complicated tomb with its six-pillared inner hall leading to the burial chamber. The pharaoh’s remains were found here along with many other royal mummies when the tomb was opened by French archaeologist Victor Loret in 1898.
One of the deepest structures in the valley, this tomb has more than 90 steps down to a modern gangway, built over a deep pit designed to protect the inner, lower chambers from both thieves (which it failed to do) and from flash floods.
Stars cover the entire ceiling in the huge burial chamber and the walls feature, as if on a giant painted scroll, text from the Book of Amduat. While most figures are of the same stick-like proportions as in the tomb of Tuthmosis III, this is the first royal tomb in the valley to present figures with more rounded proportions, as on the pillars in the burial chamber showing the pharaoh before Osiris, Hathor and Anubis. The burial chamber is also unique for its double level; the top level was filled with pillars, the bottom contained the sarcophagus.
Although thieves breached the tomb in antiquity, Amenhotep’s mummy was restored by the priests, put back in his sarcophagus with a garland of flowers around his neck, and buried in the two side rooms with 13 other royal mummies, including Tuthmosis IV (1400–1390 BC), Amenhotep III, Merenptah, Ramses IV, V and VI, and Seti II (1200–1194 BC), most of which are now at the Egyptian Museum.
Tomb of Tuthmosis III (KV 34)Tomb
Hidden in the hills between high limestone cliffs, and reached only via a steep staircase that crosses an even steeper ravine, this tomb demonstrates the lengths to which the ancient pharaohs went to thwart the cunning of the ancient thieves. Tuthmosis III (1479–1425 BC), an innovator in many fields, and whose military exploits and stature earned him the description ‘the Napoleon of ancient Egypt’, was one of the first to build his tomb in the Valley of the Kings.
It is a steep climb up and down, but secrecy was the pharaoh’s utmost concern: he chose the most inaccessible spot and designed his burial place with a series of passages at haphazard angles and fake doors to mislead or catch potential robbers. The shaft, now traversed by a narrow gangway, leads to an antechamber supported by two pillars, the walls of which are adorned with a list of more than 700 gods and demigods. As the earliest tomb in the valley to be painted, the walls appear to be simply giant versions of funerary papyri, with scenes populated by stick men. The burial chamber has curved walls and is oval in shape; it contains the pharaoh’s quartzite sarcophagus, which is carved in the shape of a cartouche.
Tomb of Siptah (KV 47)Tomb
Discovered in 1905, the tomb of Siptah (1194–1188 BC) was never completed, but the upper corridors are nonetheless covered in fine paintings. The tomb’s entrance is decorated with the sun disc, and figures of Maat, the goddess of truth, kneel on each side of the doorway. There are further scenes from the Book of Amduat, and figures of Anubis, after which the tomb remains undecorated.
Tomb of Tawosret/Sethnakht (KV 14)Tomb
Tawosret was the wife of Seti II and after his successor Siptah died, she took power herself (1188–1186 BC). Egyptologists think she began the tomb for herself and Seti II, but their burials were removed by her successor, the equally short-lived Sethnakht (1186–1184 BC), who added a second burial chamber for himself. The tomb has been open since antiquity and some decoration has deteriorated.
The change of ownership can be seen in the tomb’s decoration; the upper corridors show the queen, accompanied by her stepson Siptah, in the presence of the gods. Siptah’s cartouche was later replaced by Seti II’s. But in the lower corridors and burial chambers, images of Tawosret have been plastered over by images or cartouches of Sethnakht. The colour and state of the burial chambers remains good, with astronomical ceiling decorations and images of Tawosret and Sethnakht with the gods. The final scene from the Book of Caverns adorning Tawosret’s burial chamber is particularly impressive, showing the sun god as a ram-headed figure stretching out his wings to emerge from the darkness of the underworld.
Tomb of Seti II (KV 15)Tomb
Adjacent to the tomb of Tawosret/Sethnakht is a smaller tomb where it seems Sethnakht buried Seti II (1200–1194 BC) after turfing him out of KV 14. Open since ancient times, judging by the many examples of classical graffiti, the tomb’s entrance area has some finely carved relief scenes, although the rest was quickly finished off in paint alone. The walls have extracts from the Litany of Ra, the Book of Gates and the Book of Amduat.
One unusual feature of the decoration here can be found on the walls of the well room: images of the type of funerary objects used in pharaohs’ tombs, such as golden statuettes of the pharaoh within a shrine.
Tomb of Ramses I (KV 16)Tomb
Unfinished at the time of his death in 1294 BC after a two-year reign, Ramses I’s simple tomb has the shortest entrance corridor; it leads to a single, almost square, burial chamber, containing the pharaoh’s open pink-granite sarcophagus. Discovered and excavated (like many others) in 1817 by the Italian adventurer Giovanni Belzoni, the quartzite sarcophagus is in place and some of the wall paintings are still fresh.
Only the chamber is superbly decorated, very similar to Horemheb’s tomb (KV 57), with extracts from the Book of Gates, as well as scenes of the pharaoh in the presence of the gods, eg the pharaoh kneeling between the jackal-headed ‘Soul of Nekhen’ and the falcon-headed ‘Soul of Pe’, symbolising Upper and Lower Egypt.
oTomb of Seti I (KV 17)Tomb
(MAP; Valley of the Kings; LE1000, plus Valley of the Kings ticket; h 6am-5pm)
One of the great achievements of Egyptian art, this cathedral-like tomb is the finest in the Valley of the Kings. Long closed to visitors, it is now reopened and if you can afford the ticket, it is money well spent. The 137m-long tomb was completely decorated and beautifully preserved when Giovanni Belzoni opened it in 1817, and although it has suffered since, it still offers an eye-popping experience – art from Seti’s reign is among the finest in Egypt.
Seti I, who succeeded Ramses I and was father of Ramses II, ruled some 70 years after the death of Tutankhamun. After the chaos of the Akhenaten years at Tell Al Amarna, Seti I’s reign was a golden age that saw a revival of Old Kingdom-style art, best seen at his temple in Abydos and here in his tomb. The tomb suffered after Belzoni made copies of the decoration by laying wet papers over the raised reliefs and lifting off some of the colour. Subsequent visitors did more damage, with Champollion, the man who deciphered hieroglyphs, even cutting out some of the wall decoration. The tomb was reopened in 2016 and its walls are filled with fabulous images from many ancient texts, including the Litany of Ra, Book of the Dead, Book of Gates, Book of the Heavenly Cow and many others. The sarcophagus, one of the finest carved in Egypt and taken by Belzoni, now sits in the Sir John Soane’s Museum, London, while two of its painted reliefs showing Seti with Hathor are now in the Louvre in Paris and Florence’s Archaeological Museum.
Tomb of Mentuherkhepeshef (KV 19)Tomb
The only tomb of a prince that you can visit in the Valley of the Kings (others are closed), this was decorated for Prince Rameses Mentuherkhepeshef (c 1000 BC), a son of Rameses IX. When Giovanni Belzoni discovered it in 1817, he found a number of later mummies buried here. Mentuherkhepeshef’s remains have not been found. There are good wall paintings, although they are now behind glass since a 1994 flood damaged the lower parts of the walls.
Mentuherkhepeshef’s name translates as ‘The Arm of Mentu is Strong’. The entrance corridor to his tomb is adorned with life-size reliefs of various gods, including Osiris, Ptah, Thoth and Khonsu, receiving offerings from the young prince, who is shown in all his finery, wearing exquisitely pleated fine linen robes and a blue-and-gold ‘sidelock of youth’ attached to his black wig – not to mention his gorgeous make-up (as worn by both men and women in ancient Egypt).
Tomb of Tuthmosis IV (KV 43)Tomb
The tomb of Tuthmosis IV (1400–1390 BC) is one of the largest and deepest tombs constructed during the 18th dynasty. It is also the first in which paint was applied over a yellow background, beginning a tradition that was continued in many tombs. It was discovered in 1903 by Howard Carter, 20 years earlier than the tomb of Tuthmosis IV’s great-grandson, Tutankhamun.
It is accessed by two long flights of steps leading down and around to the burial chamber where there’s an enormous sarcophagus covered in hieroglyphs. The walls of the well shaft and antechamber are decorated with painted scenes of Tuthmosis before the gods, and the figures of the goddess Hathor are particularly fetching in a range of beautiful dresses decorated with beaded designs.
On the left (south) wall of the antechamber there is a patch of ancient Egyptian graffiti dating back to 1315 BC. It was written by government official Maya and his assistant Djehutymose, and refers to their inspection and restoration of Tuthmosis IV’s burial on the orders of Horemheb, following the first wave of robbery in the eighth year of Horemheb’s reign, some 67 years after Tuthmosis IV died.
Tomb of AyTomb
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE40/20, plus Valley of the Kings ticket; h 6am-5pm)
Although only the burial chamber is decorated, this tomb, tucked away in the West Valley, is noted for its scenes of Ay hunting hippopotamus and fishing in the marshes (scenes usually found in the tombs of nobles not royalty), and for a wall featuring 12 baboons, representing the 12 hours of the night, after which the West Valley or Wadi Al Gurud (Valley of the Monkeys) is named.
Although he succeeded Tutankhamun, Ay’s brief reign from 1327 to 1323 BC tends to be associated with the earlier Amarna period and Akhenaten (some Egyptologists have suggested he could have been the father of Akhenaten’s wife Nefertiti). Ay abandoned a grandiose tomb in Amarna and took over another here in the West Valley. The valley played an important part in the Amarna story, as it was chosen as a new burial ground by Amenhotep III for his own enormous tomb (KV 22, part way up the valley), and his son and successor Akhenaten also began a tomb here, before he relocated the capital at Amarna, where he was eventually buried.
It seems Tutankhamun also planned to be buried in the West Valley, until his early death saw his successor Ay ‘switch’ tombs. Tutankhamun was buried in a tomb (KV 62) in the traditional section of the Valley of the Kings, while Ay himself took over the tomb Tutankhamun had begun at the head of the West Valley. The tomb is accessed by a dirt road that leads off from the car park at the Valley of the Kings and winds for almost 2km up a desolate valley past sheer rock cliffs. Recapturing the atmosphere (and silence) once found in the neighbouring Valley of the Kings makes it worth the visit.
AVENUE OF SPHINXES
A 3km-long alley of sphinxes connecting Luxor and Karnak is being excavated. Most of the buildings covering the sphinxes have been demolished, including some that were important to the development of 19th- and early-20th-century Luxor. The avenue will eventually be completely revealed, although it remains to be seen how many people will want to walk from Luxor to Karnak temples.
Valley of the Queens
At the southern end of the Theban hillside, the Valley of the Queens (Biban Al Harim; MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE80/40; h
6am-5pm) contains at least 75 tombs that belonged to queens of the 19th and 20th dynasties as well as to other members of the royal families, including princesses and the Ramesside princes. Four of the tombs are open for viewing. The most famous of these, the tomb of Nefertari, was only reopened to the public in late 2016. The other tombs are those of Titi, Khaemwaset and Amunherkhepshef.
An additional ticket is required for Tomb of Nefertari.
Tomb of NefertariTomb
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; LE1000, plus Valley of the Queens ticket; h 6am-5pm)
Nefertari’s tomb is hailed as one of the finest in the Theban necropolis – and all of Egypt for that matter. Nefertari was one of five wives of Ramses II, the New Kingdom pharaoh known for his colossal monuments, but the tomb he built for his favourite queen is a shrine to her beauty and, without doubt, an exquisite labour of love. Every centimetre of the walls in the tomb’s three chambers and connecting corridors is adorned with colourful scenes.
Nefertari, known as the ‘Most Beautiful of Them’, is depicted wearing a divinely transparent white gown and a golden headdress featuring two long feathers extending from the back of a vulture. The ceiling of the tomb is festooned with golden stars. In many places the queen is shown in the company of the gods and with associated text from the Book of the Dead.
Like most of the tombs in the Valley of the Kings, this one had been plundered by the time it was discovered by archaeologists. Only a few fragments of the queen’s pink-granite sarcophagus remained, and of her mummified body, only traces of her knees were left.
A replica of the tomb is planned to be installed, alongside the replica of Tutankhamun’s burial chamber, near Howard Carter’s house.
Tomb of AmunherkhepshefTomb
If you can’t afford entry to the Tomb of Nefertari, the valley’s showpiece is the tomb of Amunherkhepshef, with beautiful, well-preserved reliefs. Amunherkhepshef, a son of Ramses III, was in his teens when he died. On the walls of the tomb’s vestibule, Ramses holds his son’s hand to introduce him to the gods who will help him on his journey to the afterlife. Amunherkhepshef wears a kilt and sandals, with the sidelock of hair typical of young boys.
The mummified five-month-old foetus on display in the tomb is the subject of many an inventive story, among them the suggestion that the foetus was aborted by Amunherkhepshef’s mother when she heard of his death. It was actually found by Italian excavators in a valley to the south of the Valley of the Queens.
Tomb of KhaemwasetTomb
Like his neighbour Amunherkhepshef, Khaemwaset was a son of Ramses III who died young; there is little information about his age or cause of death. His tomb follows a linear plan and is decorated with well-preserved, brightly coloured scenes of Ramses introducing his son to the gods, and scenes from the Book of the Dead. The vestibule has an astronomical ceiling, showing Ramses III in full ceremonial dress; Khaemwaset wears a tunic, the sidelock of hair signifying his youth.
Tomb of TitiTomb
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Valley of the Queens; adult/student LE50/25; h 6am-5pm)
The tomb of Queen Titi has a corridor leading to a square chapel, off which is the burial chamber and two smaller rooms. The paintings are faded, but you can still make out a winged Maat kneeling on the left-hand side of the corridor, and the queen before Thoth, Ptah and the four sons of Horus opposite. Inside the burial chamber are a series of animal guardians: a jackal and lion, two monkeys, and a monkey with a bow.
Egyptologists are not sure which Ramesside pharaoh Titi was married to; in her tomb she is referred to as the royal wife, royal mother and royal daughter. Some archaeologists believe she was the wife of Ramses III, and her tomb is in many ways similar to those of Khaemwaset and Amunherkhepshef, perhaps her sons.
MAKING MUMMIES
Although the practice of preserving dead bodies can be found in cultures across the world, the Egyptians were the ultimate practitioners of this highly complex procedure that they refined over a period of almost 4000 years. Their preservation of the dead can be traced back to the very earliest times, when bodies were simply buried in the desert away from the limited areas of cultivation. In direct contact with the sand that covered them, the hot, dry conditions allowed the body fluids to drain away while preserving the skin, hair and nails intact. Accidentally uncovering such bodies must have had a profound effect upon those who were able to recognise people who had died years earlier.
So began a long process of experimentation to preserve the bodies without burying them in the sand. It wasn’t until around 2600 BC that internal organs, which is where putrefaction actually begins, began to be removed. As the process became increasingly elaborate, all the organs were removed except the kidneys, which were hard to reach, and the heart. The latter, which was considered the source of intelligence rather than the brain, was left in place, often with a heart amulet inscribed with an invocation from the Book of the Dead. The brain was removed by inserting a metal probe up the nose and whisking to reduce the organ to a liquid that could be easily drained away. All the rest – lungs, liver, stomach, intestines – were removed through an opening cut in the left flank. Then the body and its separate organs were covered with piles of natron salt and left to dry out for 40 days, after which they were washed, purified and anointed with a range of oils, spices and resins. All were then wrapped in layers of linen, with the appropriate amulets set in place over the various parts of the body as priests recited the incantations needed to activate the protective functions of the amulets.
Deir Al Medina
Deir Al Medina (Monastery of the Town or Workmen’s Village; MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE80/40; h 6am-5pm) takes its name from a Ptolemaic temple, later converted to a Coptic monastery – the Monastery of the Town – but the real attraction here is the unique Workmen’s Village. Many of the skilled workers and artists who created tombs in the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens lived and were buried here. Archaeologists have uncovered more than 70 houses in this village and many tombs; the most beautiful of these are now open to the public.
About 1km off the road to the Valley of the Queens and up a short, steep paved road, the small Ptolemaic-era temple, measuring only 10m by 15m, was built between 221 and 116 BC. It was dedicated to Hathor, the goddess of pleasure and love, and to Maat, the goddess of truth and personification of cosmic order. In front of the temple are the remains of the workmens’ village, mostly low walls although there are also remains of ancient irrigation pipes. More impressive, however, are the nearby tombs of Sennedjem, Peshedu, Inherka and Ipuy. Originally these were all topped by small mud-brick pyramids, one of which has been rebuilt.
ATomb of Sennedjem
The tomb of Sennedjem is stunningly decorated and contains two small chambers with some exquisite paintings. Sennedjem was a 19th-dynasty artist who lived during the reigns of Seti I and Ramses II, and it seems he ensured his own tomb was as finely decorated as those of his masters. Images include Sennedjem farming with his wife, his mummification and a particularly beautiful image of Osiris with crook and flail.
ATomb of Inherka
Inherka was a 19th-dynasty servant who worked in the Place of Truth in the Valley of the Kings. His beautifully adorned one-room tomb has magnificent wall paintings, including a famous scene of a cat (representing the sun god Ra) killing a snake (representing the evil serpent Apophis) under a sacred tree, on the left wall. There are also beautiful domestic scenes of Inherka with his wife and children.
ATomb of Ipuy
Ipuy was a sculptor during the reign of Ramses II. Here the artist dispenses with the usual scenes of religious ritual and instead is shown farming and hunting. There is also a depiction of Ipuy’s house and its flower- and fruit-filled garden.
ATomb of Peshedu
Peshedu was another 19th-dynasty servant in the Place of Truth and had himself portrayed praying under a palm tree beside a lake, an image that has become iconic.
TACKLING THE WEST BANK
Take more than a day to visit the west bank, if you can. Plan your day in advance as tickets for most sights must be bought from the central ticket office, and are only valid for that day. Early morning visits are ideal, but that is unfortunately when most tour groups visit the Memorial Temple of Hatshepsut or the Valley of the Kings. So try to leave these two to the afternoon to avoid the crowds and visit other sights such as the Tombs of the Nobles or the Ramesseum in the morning.
West Bank Temples & Monuments
oMedinat HabuTemple
(Adult/student LE40/20; h 6am-5pm)
Ramses III’s magnificent memorial temple of Medinat Habu, fronted by sleepy Kom Lolah village and backed by the Theban mountains, is one of the west bank’s most underrated sites. This was one of the first places in Thebes closely associated with the local god Amun. At its height, Medinat Habu contained temples, storage rooms, workshops, administrative buildings, a royal palace and accommodation for priests and officials. It was the centre of the economic life of Thebes for centuries.
Although the complex is most famous for the funerary temple built by Ramses III, Hatshepsut and Tuthmosis III also constructed buildings here. They were later added to and altered by a succession of rulers through to the Ptolemies. When the pagan cults were banned, it became an important Christian centre, and was still inhabited as late as the 9th century AD, when a plague was thought to have decimated the town. You can still see the mud-brick remains of the medieval town that gave the site its name (medina means ‘town’ or ‘city’) on top of the enclosure walls.
The original Temple of Amun, built by Hatshepsut and Tuthmosis III, was later completely overshadowed by the enormous Funerary Temple of Ramses III, the dominant feature of Medinat Habu. But a chapel from the Hatshepsut period still stands on the right after you have passed the outer gates.
Ramses III was inspired in the construction of his shrine by the Ramesseum of his illustrious forebear, Ramses II. His own temple and the smaller one dedicated to Amun are both enclosed within the massive outer walls of the complex.
Also just inside, to the left of the gate, are the Tomb Chapels of the Divine Adorers, which were built for the principal priestesses of Amun. Outside the eastern gate, one of only two entrances, was a landing quay for a canal that once connected Medinat Habu with the Nile.
You enter the site through the unique Syrian Gate, a large two-storey building modelled after a Syrian fortress: as with the images of the pharaoh smiting his enemies, this harks back to the famous battles between Egyptians and Hittites, particularly at the time of Ramses II. If you follow the wall to the left, you will find a staircase leading to the upper floors. There is not much to see in the rooms but you’ll get some great views out across the village in front of the temple and over the fields to the south.
The well-preserved first pylon marks the front of the temple proper. Ramses III is portrayed in its reliefs as the victor in several wars. Most famous are the fine reliefs of his victory over the Libyans (whom you can recognise by their long robes, sidelocks and beards). There is also a gruesome scene of scribes tallying the number of enemies killed by counting severed hands and genitals.
To the left of the first court are the remains of the Pharaoh’s Palace; the three rooms at the rear were for the royal harem. There is a window between the first court and the Pharaoh’s Palace known as the Window of Appearances, which allowed the pharaoh to show himself to his subjects.
The reliefs of the second pylon feature Ramses III presenting prisoners of war to Amun and his vulture-goddess wife, Mut. Colonnades and reliefs surround the second court, depicting various religious ceremonies.
If you have time to wander about the extensive ruins around the funerary temple, you will see the remains of an early Christian basilica as well as a small sacred lake and, on the south side of the temple, the outline of the palace and the window, looking into the temple courtyard, where Ramses would appear.
RamesseumTemple
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE60/30; h 6am-5pm)
Ramses II called his massive memorial ‘the Temple of Millions of Years of User-Maat-Ra’; classical visitors called it the tomb of Ozymandias; and Jean-François Champollion, who deciphered hieroglyphics, called it the Ramesseum. Like other memorial temples it was part of Ramses II’s funerary complex. His tomb was built deep in the hills, but his memorial temple was on the edge of the cultivated area on a canal that connected with the Nile and with other memorial temples.
Unlike the well-preserved structures that Ramses II built at Karnak and Abu Simbel, his memorial temple has not survived the times very well. It has been extensively restored, but is most famous for the scattered remains of fallen statues that inspired the poem ‘Ozymandias’, by English poet Shelley, using the undeniable fact of Ramses’ mortality to ridicule his aspirations to immortality.
Although more elaborate than many other temples, the layout of the Ramesseum is fairly orthodox, consisting of two courts, hypostyle halls, a sanctuary, accompanying chambers and storerooms. What is unusual is that the rectangular floor plan was altered to incorporate an older, smaller temple – that of Ramses II’s mother, Tuya – off to one side.
The entrance is through a doorway in the northeast corner of the enclosure wall, which leads into the second court, where one should turn left to the first pylon. The first and second pylons measure more than 60m across and feature reliefs of Ramses’ military exploits, particularly his battles against the Hittites. Through the first pylon are the ruins of the huge first court, including the double colonnade that fronted the royal palace.
Near the western stairs is part of the Colossus of Ramses II, the Ozymandias of Shelley’s poem, lying somewhat forlornly on the ground, where it once stood 17.5m tall. The head of another granite statue of Ramses II, one of a pair, lies in the second court. Twenty-nine of the original 48 columns of the great hypostyle hall are still standing. In the smaller hall behind it, the roof, which features astronomical hieroglyphs, is still in place. Some of the wall carvings, including one showing the pharaoh’s name being inscribed on a leaf, are finely done.
Memorial Temple of HatshepsutTemple
(Deir Al Bahri; MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE80/40; h 6am-5pm)
At Deir Al Bahri, the eyes first focus on the dramatic rugged limestone cliffs that rise nearly 300m above the desert plain, only to realise that at the foot of all this immense beauty lies a monument even more extraordinary, the dazzling Temple of Hatshepsut. The almost-modern-looking temple blends in beautifully with the cliffs from which it is partly cut – a marriage made in heaven. Most of what you see has been painstakingly reconstructed.
Continuous excavation and restoration since 1891 have revealed one of ancient Egypt’s finest monuments. It must have been even more stunning in the days of Hatshepsut (1473–1458 BC), when it was approached by a grand sphinx-lined causeway instead of today’s noisy tourist bazaar, when the court was a garden planted with exotic trees and perfumed plants, and when it was linked due east across the Nile to the Temple of Karnak. Called Djeser-djeseru (Most Holy of Holies), it was designed by Senenmut, a courtier at Hatshepsut’s court and perhaps also her lover. If the design seems unusual, note that it did in fact feature all the things a memorial temple usually had, including the rising central axis and a three-part plan, but it had to be adapted to the chosen site: almost exactly on the same line as the Temple of Amun at Karnak, and near an older shrine to the goddess Hathor.
The temple was vandalised over the centuries: Tuthmosis III removed his stepmother’s name whenever he could; Akhenaten removed all references to Amun; and the early Christians turned it into a monastery, Deir Al Bahri (Monastery of the North), and defaced the pagan reliefs.
Deir Al Bahri has been designated as one of the hottest places on earth, so an early morning visit is advisable, also because the reliefs are best seen in the low sunlight. The complex is entered via the great court, where original ancient tree roots are still visible. The colonnades on the lower terrace were closed for restoration at the time of writing. The delicate relief work on the south colonnade, left of the ramp, has reliefs of the transportation of a pair of obelisks commissioned by Hatshepsut from the Aswan quarries to Thebes, and the north one features scenes of birds being caught.
A large ramp leads to the two upper terraces. The best-preserved reliefs are on the middle terrace. The reliefs on the north colonnade record Hatshepsut’s divine birth and at the end of it is the Chapel of Anubis, with well-preserved colourful reliefs of a disfigured Hatshepsut and Tuthmosis III in the presence of Anubis, Ra-Horakhty and Hathor. The wonderfully detailed reliefs in the Punt Colonnade to the left of the entrance tell the story of the expedition to the Land of Punt to collect myrrh trees needed for the incense used in temple ceremonies. There are depictions of the strange animals and exotic plants seen there, the foreign architecture and landscapes as well as the different-looking people. At the end of this colonnade is the Hathor Chapel, with two chambers both with Hathor-headed columns. Reliefs on the west wall show, if you have a torch, Hathor as a cow licking Hatshepsut’s hand, and the queen drinking from Hathor’s udder. On the north wall is a faded relief of Hatshepsut’s soldiers in naval dress in the goddess’ honour. Beyond the pillared halls is a three-roomed chapel cut into the rock, now closed to the public, with reliefs of the queen in front of the deities and, behind the door, a small figure of Senenmut, the temple’s architect and, some believe, Hatshepsut’s lover.
The upper terrace, restored by a Polish-Egyptian team over the last 25 years, had 24 colossal Osiris statues, some of which are left. The central pink-granite doorway leads into the Sanctuary of Amun, which is hewn out of the cliff.
On the south side of Hatshepsut’s temple lie the remains of the Temple of Montuhotep, built for the founder of the 11th dynasty and one of the oldest temples thus far discovered in Thebes, and the Temple of Tuthmosis III, Hatshepsut’s successor. Both are in ruins.
Assasif TombsTomb
(Tombs of Kheruef, Ankhor and Pabasa; MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student Kheruef & Ankhor LE60/30, Pabasa LE30/15; h 6am-5pm)
This group of tombs, near the Temple of Hatshepsut, belongs to 18th-dynasty nobles, and 25th- and 26th-dynasty nobles under the Nubian pharaohs. The area is under excavation by archaeologists, who found a new tomb as recently as 2015, so of the many tombs here only a few are open to the public. These include the Tombs of Kheruef and Ankhhor. The nearby tomb of Pabasa, a 26th-dynasty priest, has wonderful scenes of agriculture, including beekeeping, hunting and fishing.
Tickets are available at the ticket office of the Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir Al Bahri). Because these tombs are less visited, you may need to look for the guardian in order to have the gates opened.
Tombs of Roy & ShuroyTomb
(Dra Abu’l Naga; MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE40/20; h 6am-5pm)
Hidden in the desert cliffs north of Deir Al Bahri lies yet another necropolis, Dra Abu’l Naga, with more than 100 tombs of rulers and officials. Most of these date from the 17th dynasty to the late period (c 1550–500 BC), although in the summer of 2014 a royal tomb from the 11th dynasty was found (c 2081–1938 BC). The area has been extensively plundered, but two tombs, those of Roy and Shuroy, escaped with their paintings mostly intact.
The tomb of Roy, a royal scribe and steward of Horemheb, last pharaoh of the 18th dynasty, is small with scenes of funerary offerings and agriculture, and a beautifully painted ceiling. A few metres away, the T-shaped tomb of Shuroy (No 13) contains some finely executed, but in places heavily damaged, paintings of Shuroy and his wife making offerings to the gods, and a funeral procession led by a child mourner.
Carter’s House & the Replica Tomb of TutankhamunMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE50/25; h 9am-5pm; p )
The domed mud-brick house where Howard Carter lived during his search for Tutankhamun’s tomb is surrounded by a garden on what is otherwise a barren slope above the road from Deir Al Bahri to the Valley of the Kings. The house has been restored and decorated with pictures and tools of the excavation. An exact replica of Tutankhamun’s burial chamber has been constructed on the edge of the garden along with an exhibition relating to the discovery of the tomb.
The replica has faithfully copied the shape of the original tomb, but only the burial chamber (right-hand side) has been reproduced here. The work is intended to challenge assumptions about our desire to see original objects and also to take some of the pressure off the original tomb. Although the young pharaoh’s mummy has not been included, every detail of the burial chamber has been exactly reproduced, including dust and pitting on the walls, the wooden railing, and cracks in the sarcophagus. The left-hand storeroom (not open in the original tomb) has been used to mount displays explaining how the tomb was discovered and reproduced.
There is a cafe space on the side of Carter’s House which, when it reopens, will make this a peaceful place to stop for refreshment. The mud-brick building on the little hill above Carter’s house belonged to the French conservator Alexandre Stoppelaëre. An Egyptian architect built the house for him in 1950. Empty for many years, it has now been restored as the base for the Theban Necropolis Preservation Initiative, a collaboration between the Factum Foundation for Digital Technology in Conservation in Madrid, the University of Basel and the Ministry of Antiquities in Egypt.
Temple of Seti ITemple
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE60/30; h 6am-5pm)
Seti I, who built the superbly decorated temple at Abydos, his beautiful tomb in the Valley of the Kings and Karnak’s magnificent hypostyle hall, died before this memorial temple was finished, so it was completed by his son Ramses II who had a heavier hand. At the northern end of the Theban necropolis, this temple has few visitors, despite its picturesque location near a palm grove.
The temple was severely damaged by floods in 1994 and has been extensively restored. The entrance is through a small door in the northeast corner of the reconstructed fortress-like enclosure wall. The first and second pylons and the court are in ruins. The pharaoh’s palace has also gone, but recent excavations have revealed its foundations, just south of the court, and it is therefore the earliest-surviving example of a palace within a memorial temple; its plan is similar to the better-preserved palace at the memorial temple of Ramses III at Medinat Habu.
The walls of the columned portico at the west facade of the temple, and those of the hypostyle court beyond it, contain some superbly executed reliefs. Off the hypostyle are six shrines and to the south is a small chapel dedicated to Seti’s father, Ramses I, who died before he could build his own mortuary temple.
Palace of Amenhotep IIIMonument
(Malkata; MAP GOOGLE MAP)
This open site in the desert south of Medinat Habu contains the ruins of a royal palace complex started in the 18th dynasty (14th century BC) by Amenhotep III. The palace, known in antiquity as the Palace of Joy, contained residences, a temple to Amenhotep’s wife and Egypt’s first glass factory. The palace was used into Byzantine times.
Tombs of the Nobles
The Tombs of the Nobles (MAP GOOGLE MAP; h
6am-5pm) are some of the best and least-visited attractions on the west bank. Nestled in the foothills opposite the Ramesseum are more than 400 tombs belonging to nobles from the 6th dynasty to the Graeco-Roman period. Where royal tombs were decorated with cryptic passages from the Book of the Dead to guide them through the afterlife, the nobles, intent on letting the good life continue after their death, decorated their tombs with wonderfully detailed scenes of their daily lives.
There have been several new discoveries on the hillside in recent years, but these tombs are still being studied. Tombs that are open to the public are divided into groups, and each group requires a separate ticket (various prices) from the Antiquities Inspectorate ticket office.
Tombs of Khonsu, Userhet & Benia (Nos 31, 51 & 343)Tomb
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE20/10; h 6am-5pm)
The tomb of Benia is the most colourful of this trio. Benia was a boarder in the Royal Nursery and chief treasurer during the reign of Tuthmosis III. There are many scenes of offering tables piled high with food and drinks overlooked by Benia, and sometimes by his parents. In a niche at the end of the tomb, a statue of Benia is flanked by his parents, all three with destroyed faces.
Khonsu was First Prophet in the now-vanished memorial temple of Tuthmosis III (1479–1425 BC). Inside the first chamber of Khonsu’s tomb are scenes of the Montu festival at Armant, about 20km south of Luxor; this was the festival of the god of war over which Khonsu presided. The sacred barque with the shrine of Montu is towed by two smaller boats. The gods Osiris and Anubis are also honoured, and in many scenes Khonsu is seen making offerings to them. The ceiling is adorned with images of ducks flying around and nests with eggs. Next door is the less-well-preserved tomb of Userhet, a priest during the time of Seti I (1294–1279 BC).
Tombs of Menna, Nakht & AmenemopeTomb
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE60/30; h 6am-5pm)
The beautiful and highly colourful wall paintings in the tomb of Menna and the tomb of Nakht emphasise rural life in 18th-dynasty Egypt. Menna was an estate inspector and Nakht was an astronomer of Amun. Their finely detailed tombs show scenes of farming, hunting, fishing and feasting. Although this tomb is so small that only a handful of visitors are able to squeeze in at a time, the walls have some of the best-known examples of Egyptian tomb paintings.
The tomb of Amenemope is one of the most recent to be opened for visitors. The large funerary complex has previously been open since antiquity and has lost most of its decoration. Among the more recent materials found when archaeologists arrived were early Coptic manuscripts and Howard Carter’s copy of the Spectator from 1912. Amenemope (c 1186–1069 BC) lived in the reigns of Ramses III, IV and V. His titles included Third Prophet of Amon and Greatest of the Seers of Re in Thebes. The sarcophagus in the upper corridor was dragged from the lower burial chamber.
The tomb of Nakht has a small museum area in its first chamber.
Tombs of Ramose, Userhet & KhaemhetTomb
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE40/20; h 6am-5pm)
The tomb of Ramose, a governor of Thebes under Amenhotep III and Akhenaten, is fascinating because it is one of the few monuments dating from a period of transition between two different forms of religious worship. The exquisite paintings and low reliefs show scenes in two different styles from the reigns of both pharaohs, depicting Ramose’s funeral and his relationship with Akhenaten. The tomb was never actually finished, perhaps because Ramose died prematurely.
Next door is the tomb of Userhet, one of Amenhotep II’s royal scribes, with fine wall paintings depicting daily life. Userhet is shown presenting gifts to Amenhotep II; there’s a barber cutting hair on another wall; other scenes include men making wine and people hunting gazelles from a chariot.
The tomb of Khaemhet, Amenhotep III’s royal inspector of the granaries and court scribe, has scenes on the walls showing the deceased making offerings, the pharaoh depicted as a sphinx, the funeral ritual of Osiris and images of daily country life as well as official business.
oTombs of Sennofer & RekhmireTomb
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE30/15; h 6am-5pm)
The most interesting parts of the tomb of Sennofer, overseer of the Garden of Amun under Amenhotep II, are to be found deep underground, in the main chamber. The ceiling there is covered with clear paintings of grapes and vines, while most of the vivid scenes on the surrounding walls and columns depict Sennofer and all the different women in his life, including his wife, daughters and wet nurse. It is a short but steep climb down into the tomb.
The tomb of Rekhmire, vizier under Tuthmosis III and Amenhotep II, is one of the best preserved in the area. The long, narrow central chamber is unusual in that it slopes upwards towards a false door. The west wall shows Rekhmire inspecting the production of metals, bricks, jewellery, leather, furniture and statuary, including workers on scaffolding. The east wall shows banquet scenes, complete with lyrics; the female harpist sings: ‘Put perfume on the hair of the goddess Maat’.
Tombs of Neferronpet, Dhutmosi & NefersekheruTomb
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE30/15)
Discovered in 1915, the highlight of the brightly painted tomb of Neferronpet (also known as Kenro), the scribe of the treasury under Ramses II, is the scene showing him overseeing the weighing of gold at the treasury. Next door, the tomb of Nefersekheru, an officer of the treasury during the same period, is similar in style and content to its neighbours. The ceiling is decorated with a huge variety of elaborate geometric patterns.
From this long tomb, a small passage leads into the tomb of Dhutmosi, which is in poor condition.
2Activities
Hot-Air Ballooning
Hot-air ballooning to see the sun rise over the ancient monuments on the west bank and Theban mountains is a great way to start the day. Flights usually last an hour and the trajectory obviously depends on the wind, so there is no guarantee you will fly over the Valley of the Kings, as some outfits suggest. Expect to pay about €100 per person in high season.
Balloon operators in Luxor have come under increased scrutiny after a number of accidents that have occurred in the last decade, the latest in January 2018 when strong winds are said to have blown a balloon off course. It then crash-landed, killing one tourist.
Alaska BalloonBallooning
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-227-6651, 010-0568-8439; www.alaskaballoon.com; Sharia Ahad, off Sharia Televizyon; from US$50 per person)
Luxor’s balloon operators all offer the same sort of service, but Alaska (the local nickname for Luxor) has a good reputation.
Magic HorizonBallooning
( % 010-0568-8439, 095-227-4060; www.visitluxorinhotairballoon.com; Sharia Khaled Ibn Al Walid; from US$50 per person)
A well-reputed operator of hot-air-balloon flights over the ancient monuments on the west bank and Theban mountains.
Donkey, Horse & Camel Rides
Riding a horse, a donkey or a camel through the fields and seeing the sunset behind the Theban hills is wonderful. Boys at the local ferry dock on the west bank offer donkey and camel rides for about LE40 to LE50 for an hour. There have been reports of women getting hassled and of overcharging at the end. Some west bank hotels also offer camel trips, which include visits to nearby villages for a cup of tea, and donkey treks around the west bank. These trips, which start at around 7am (sometimes 5am) and finish near lunchtime, cost about LE100 per person.
oNobi’s Arabian Horse StablesHorse Riding
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-0024, 010-0504-8558; www.luxorstables.com; camel or horse with helmet per hour approx LE50, donkey LE40; h 7am-sunset)
Excellent horses can be found at Nobi’s Arabian Horse Stables, which also provides riding hats, English saddles and insurance. Nobi also has 25 camels and as many donkeys, and organises longer horse-riding and camping trips into the desert, or a week from Luxor to Kom Ombo along the west bank. Call ahead and they will collect you from your hotel.
Call ahead to book, and Nobi can arrange a hassle-free transfer to make sure you arrive at the right place, as taxi drivers often will try and take you to a friend’s stable instead.
Felucca Rides
As elsewhere in Egypt, the nicest place to be late afternoon is on the Nile. Take a felucca from either bank and sail for a few hours, catching the soft afternoon light and the sunset, cooling in the afternoon breeze and relaxing after sightseeing. Felucca prices depend on your bargaining skills, but expect to pay LE50 to LE100 per boat per hour.
A popular felucca trip is upriver to Banana Island, a tiny isle dotted with palms about 5km from Luxor. The trip takes two to three hours. Plan it in such a way that you’re on your way back in time to watch a brilliant Nile sunset from the boat. Be sure to agree in advance exactly what is included. Beware that some captains have been charging a fictitious ‘entry fee’ to the island (it’s free).
Swimming
After a hot morning of tombs and temples, a dip in a pool can be heavenly. Most bigger hotels and some budget places have swimming pools. The Hilton will usually allow you to swim if you are staying for lunch (check beforehand). Domina Inn Emilio has a small rooftop pool that you can use for LE20. In the current downturn, most other east bank hotels will also allow access for a fee. On the west bank Al Moudira has a wonderful pool set in a peaceful garden on the edge of the desert; non-guests can use it for LE100.
TIMING YOUR VISIT
At busy periods, coaches bringing daytrippers from the Red Sea arrive in Luxor around 10am. They head directly to either the Valley of the Kings or the Temple of Karnak, so avoid those sights late morning if you don’t like being overrun.
Volunteering
Those distressed by the state of the horses in Luxor streets may like to visit ACE (Animal Care in Egypt; % 095-928-0727; www.ace-egypt.org.uk; start of Sharia Al Habil, near traffic police; by donation; h
8am-noon & 1-5pm). It’s a veterinary hospital and animal welfare centre seeing up to 200 animals a day. Treatment for the working animals of Egyptians, particularly donkeys and horses, is free. Volunteers are welcome.
CCourses
Hotel SheherazadeLanguage
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0611-5939; www.hotelsheherazade.com; Gezira Al Bayrat; €285)
Bespoke Arabic courses for beginner and basic levels, run by teachers trained by and using course books from DEAC (Department for Teaching Contemporary Arabic, Institut Français). The price includes accommodation at Hotel Sheherazade, 40 hours of tuition, airport transfers and three sightseeing tours around Luxor.
TTours
Because of the bargaining and hassle involved, some people may find independent travel challenging at times, and a day tour in an air-conditioned tour bus, taking in the main sights, might be just the thing.
Most small budget hotels aggressively promote their own tours. Some are better than others and there have been complaints from a number of travellers that they ended up seeing little more than papyrus shops and alabaster factories from a sweaty car with no air-con. If you do decide to take one of these tours, expect to pay from US$30 per person.
Several of the more reliable travel agents are clustered around the Winter Palace Hotel. All offer the same kind of tours, so you can easily compare the prices.
Aladin ToursCultural
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0601-6132, 095-237-2386; www.nefertitihotel.com/tours; Nefertiti Hotel, Sharia As Sahaby; h 10am-6pm)
This very helpful travel agency, run by the young, energetic Aladin, organises sightseeing tours in Luxor and around as well as in the Western Desert, plus boat trips and ferry tickets to Sinai.
American ExpressCultural
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-237-2862; Corniche An Nil, next to Winter Palace Hotel; h 8am-8pm)
Offers a large menu of tours in and around Luxor. Prices range from LE250 to LE400 per person for a half day.
Travel Choice EgyptCultural
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-237-2402; www.travelchoiceegypt.com; Corniche An Nil; h 9am-8pm)
The former Thomas Cook office, next to the Winter Palace Hotel, still offers currency services and an array of private and group tours.
zFestivals & Events
Moulid of Abu Al HaggagCultural
The town’s biggest traditional festival is the Moulid of Abu Al Haggag, a raucous five-day carnival in honour of the nearest thing Luxor has to a patron saint, a 13th-century Sufi leader, Yusuf Abu Al Haggag. It takes place around Luxor Temple in the middle of Sha’aban, the month before Ramadan.
4Sleeping
Luxor has a wide range of hotels for all budgets, although since the 2011 revolution and following tourism slump, visitor numbers have dropped dramatically and several places have closed their doors.
Budget hotels on the west bank are particularly good value, quieter than their east bank counterparts and offering a more authentic encounter with locals. The east bank has plenty of modern midrange hotels, with good facilities and attractive rates.
At all costs avoid hotel touts, who may pounce on you as you get off the train or bus; they will get a 25% to 40% commission for bringing you to a hotel, but that will be added to your bill. Many budget and midrange hotels offer free or cheap transfers from the airport or train station, so to avoid touts and bargaining with taxi drivers, call ahead and arrange to be picked up.
4East Bank
oBob Marley Peace HotelHostel $
(Boomerang; MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-228-0981; www.peacehotelluxor.com; Sharia Mohammed Farid; dm from LE50, s/d with shared bathroom LE140/250; 
a
W )
The east bank’s best-run budget digs, the Bob Marley Peace Hotel (also known as the Boomerang) offers great facilities on a backpacker budget. Rooms and dorm are squeaky clean (private rooms with en suite are surprisingly spacious), breakfast is big and there’s a cushion-scattered roof terrace, tour booking, free wi-fi and an easy walk with a pack from Luxor Train Station.
Happy Land HotelHostel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0186-4922; www.facebook.com/msht12345; Sharia Qamr; s/d LE85/90, with shared bathroom LE75/80; a
iW)
The Happy Land, a backpackers’ favourite, offers clean rooms and bathrooms, plus friendly service, a copious breakfast with fruit and cornflakes, and a rooftop terrace. Competition among Luxor’s budget hotels is fierce, and the Happy Land does OK.
Fontana HotelHostel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0959-8123; www.facebook.com/Fontana-Hotel; Sharia Radwan, off Sharia Televizyon; s/d/tr LE40/60/75, with shared bathroom LE30/50/65; aW )
An old stalwart of the budget-hotel scene, this 25-room hotel has clean rooms, a washing machine for guest use, a luggage storage room, a rooftop terrace and a kitchen. Bathrooms are large and clean, and toilet paper and towels are provided. The owner, Magdi Soliman, is helpful. Beware extra breakfast charges. Wi-fi in reception only.
oNefertiti HotelHotel$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-237-2386; www.nefertitihotel.com; Sharia As Sahabi, btwn Sharia Maabad Al Karnak & Sharia As Souq; s/d/tr/f US$22/30/36/40; aW)
Aladin As Sahabi runs his family’s hotel with care and passion. No wonder this hotel is popular with our readers: simple but scrupulously clean rooms come with crisp white duvets on the beds, kettles with complimentary tea and coffee, and small but spotless bathrooms. An excellent breakfast is served on the roof terrace. One of the best midrange options.
Larger new rooms on the top floors are decorated in local style. The rooftop is great for a drink or a bite, with great views of the west bank, Luxor Temple and the Avenue of Sphinxes, all lit up at night. The Aladin Tours travel agency is also in the building.
La Maison de PythagoreGuesthouse$$
(%010-0535-0532; www.louxor-egypte.com; Al Awamiya; s/d/tr €35/50/60; aW)
This intimate guesthouse in a traditional Egyptian house is tucked away in the village behind the ACHTI Hotel, close to the Nile, but a world away from Luxor’s hustle. The traditional architecture encloses simple, cosy rooms, stylishly painted in blue tones, while the garden is a small oasis planted with date palms, flowers, fruit trees and a fall of bougainvillea.
Some rooms have air-con, others fans, but all have large bathrooms. Breakfast is served on the large roof terrace. Lunch and dinner, made with local seasonal produce, are available to order and can be taken in the garden or on the roof. Run by the Belgian Anne and her son Thomas, it’s a great place to stay for a few days. Mother and son are both passionate about Egypt, and run their own tailor-made half-day to one-week tours and adventures for their guests and others.
Domina Inn EmilioHotel$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-237-6666, 095-237-3570; www.emiliotravel.com; Sharia Yousef Hassan; s/d US$50/60; aiW
s)
A good midrange hotel, the Emilio has 101 spacious rooms, all fully equipped with mini fridges, satellite TV, private bathroom, air-con and 24-hour room service. Other extras include an Astro-turfed roof terrace with plenty of shade and a large pool, a sauna and a business centre.
Susanna HotelHotel$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-236-9915; 52 Sharia Maabad Al Karnak; s/d/tr from US$25/30/40; aWs )
Set between the Luxor Temple and the souq, this 45-room hotel has friendly staff and worn rooms with great views. The rooftop has views over Luxor Temple and the Nile, perfect for a sunset drink as alcohol is available.
Sonesta St George HotelHotel$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-238-2575; www.sonesta.com/luxor; Sharia Khaled Ibn Al Walid; s & d with city view from US$48, Nile view from US$77; aiWs )
This 322-room marble-clad hotel, with faux Pharaonic columns and a flame-like fence around the roof, has a kitsch value that should not be overlooked. It is a good, lively place to stay. The hotel is well managed, has friendly staff, comfortable rooms – some with great views – a heated swimming pool, a business centre and a good selection of restaurants.
Mara HouseGuesthouse$$
(% 010-2224-3661; www.marahouseluxor.com; Sharia Salahadin Ayyubi, off Sharia Salakhana; €430 per person for 3-night package; aW)
Irish Mara has built a house with spacious suites, each decorated in local style and including a sitting area and a clean bathroom. The house is open for guests taking the three-night package, which includes east and west bank tours, a day trip to Abydos and Dendara, and feasts at the house. Full details are on the website.
The modern house, in an un-touristy neighbourhood right behind the train station, can be hard to find – call for instructions or a free transfer. Mara’s Salahadeen Restaurant, in the same building, was closed at the time of writing, but when it reopens it will be serving Egyptian home-style feasts for around LE225 per person.
oHilton Luxor Resort & SpaHotel$$$
( % 010-0600-1270; www.hiltonluxor.com; New Karnak; r from US$150; paWs)
The Luxor Hilton is the slickest, most luxurious resort in Luxor. Located 2km north of Luxor centre, past the Karnak temples, the large Nileside rooms are elegant and tastefully decorated in a warm Asian-inspired style with lots of neutral colours and wood. Communal areas exude calm and tranquillity and the spa is impressive, more Thailand than Egypt.
The large grounds include two Nile-view infinity swimming pools with submerged sun loungers, a Technogym, and several top-class restaurants, including the Mediterranean Olives and a chic Asian bistro, Silk Road. The staff and management are young and very hands-on. This hotel is almost a destination in itself, albeit not very family oriented.
Winter Palace HotelHistoric Hotel$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %095-238-0425; www.sofitel.com; Corniche An Nil; pavillon/main wing r from US$80/136; aiWs)
The Winter Palace was built to attract Europe’s aristocracy and is one of Egypt’s most famous historic hotels. A wonderfully atmospheric Victorian pile, it has a grand lobby, high ceilings and fabulous views across the Nile. The enormous garden with exotic trees and a huge swimming pool is a great place to laze at the end of a sightseeing day.
Rooms vary in size and decor, but all are very comfortable, although the building is now in need of an update. Service is generally excellent, but food can be variable, with afternoon tea a disappointment. Grand dining is still a pleasure. The newer Pavillon Wing in the garden has more functional rooms but use of the same public areas, and you can often get excellent discounts on the rooms when booking online. The pool, with its large shallow area, is particularly good for kids.
ACHTI Luxor ResortResort$$$
( % 095-227-4544; www.achtiresort.com; Sharia Khaled Ibn Al Walid; r from US$100; paiWs)
The former Sheraton Luxor is a secluded three-storey building set amid lush gardens at the southern end of Sharia Khaled Ibn Al Walid – close to some restaurants but away from street noise. Rooms are well appointed and those overlooking the Nile have great views, as does the riverside pool. A popular hotel with friendly staff and a high repeat rate.
The Italian restaurant, La Mama, remains popular. The hotel is still called the Sheraton by taxi drivers and others in Luxor.
4West Bank
Nour El GournaGuesthouse$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0129-5812, 095-231-1430; Old Gurna; s/d/tr €18/25/30; a )
Set in a palm grove, easy strolling distance to Medinat Habu and the Ramesseum, Nour Al Gurna has seven large mud-brick rooms, with fans (some with air-con), mosquito nets, small stereos, locally made furniture, tiled bathrooms and traditional palm-thatch ceilings. Romantic and original, with friendly management, this is a tranquil and intimate guesthouse, conveniently located for visiting the west bank’s monuments.
Even if you’re not staying, stop in at their restaurant during or after your west bank exploration for one of their hearty, good-value set-menu meals (LE80; vegetarian LE50).
Marsam HotelHistoric Hotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-237-2403, 095-231-1603; www.marsamluxor.com; Old Gurna; s/d €25/35, with shared bathroom €20/25; paW )
The oldest hotel on the west bank, the Marsam was originally built in the 1920s as a house for archaeologists from the University of Chicago, but was later turned into a hotel by Sheikh Ali of the local Abd El Rasoul family. The family have run it ever since. Work in 2013 left the hotel looking its best.
Twenty of the 36 rooms have en-suite bathrooms and air-con, while the others have fans, but all retain the simple mud-brick design and bare furnishings. The courtyard, open to fields and the excavations of the Temple of Amenhotep III, is a lovely, shaded place to sit – a delicious breakfast with home-baked bread is served here. Atmospheric and quiet, and close to almost all the west bank sights, it remains popular with archaeologists, so you need to book ahead, particularly during the dig season (roughly from October to March). If you can’t get a room, stop by for lunch or a cold beer at the end of a hot day seeing the tombs.
Al Gezira HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-0034; www.el-gezira.com; Gezira Al Bayrat; s/d/tr €15/20/25, half board extra €6 per person; aW)
This hotel, in a modern building, is very much a home away from home – literally so for quite a few archaeologists during the winter season. The charming owners make everyone feel welcome and the 11 homey rooms, overlooking the lake or a dried-up branch of the Nile, are well maintained and pristinely clean.
Desert Paradise LodgeLodge$
(%010-2872-1991, 095-231-3036; www.desertparadiselodge.com; Qabawi; s/d LE250/300; ais)
Far from the crowds, off the road to the Valley of the Kings and on the edge of the desert, this is a place for anyone wanting to do the west bank slowly, calmly and cheaply. A beautiful small lodge built in the traditional style, it has spacious domed rooms, lots of communal space, a garden and terraces overlooking the Theban hills.
It’s 1.5km from the crossroads to Valley of Kings, on the first left after Howard Carter’s House.
Al Fayrouz HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012-2277-0565, 095-231-2709; www.elfayrouz.com; Al Gezira; s/d/tr/q €10/16/19/23; aW)
This tranquil hotel with 22 brightly painted rooms is a good base for exploring the monuments of the west bank. Under Egyptian-German management, the simple, tastefully decorated rooms are spotless and have private bathrooms; most also have balconies.
The more expensive rooms (count on around €3 more) are larger, have a sitting area and more character. Meals are served on the comfortable roof terrace or in the popular garden restaurant.
Nour El BaladGuesthouse$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-206-0111; http://nour-el-balad.luxor-hotels-eg.com; Ezbet Bisily; s/d/tr US$18/25/30; a )
The sister hotel to Nour El Gourna is particularly quiet and has 14 spacious rooms. To get here, follow the track behind Medinat Habu for 500m.
Cleopatra HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-4545, 010-0386-8345; http://facebook.com/cleopatrahoteluxorl; Al Gezira; s/d/tr/q LE200/250/350/400; aW )
A newer hotel on a quieter Gezira street, all of the very clean rooms are simple but painted in bright colours, with ensuite facilities and balconies. There’s a great roof terrace with views over fields.
oBeit SabéeBoutique Hotel$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 011-1837-5604; www.nourelnil.com/guesthouse; Bairat; d €40-100; aW )
This is a great reinvention of a traditional-style, two-storey mud-brick house: Beit Sabée has appeared in design magazines for its cool use of local colours and furnishings with a twist. Near the farms behind Medinat Habu, it offers effortlessly chic rooms, a closer contact with rural Egypt and fabulous views of the desert and Medinat Habu from the rooftop.
Some rooms are larger and brighter than others. The bigger ones could easily take a third person (extra €10 per night). Breakfast is served in the courtyard or on the roof, and lunch and dinner are also available (LE80 for a meal with meat, LE50 for vegetarian). This is a good place to spend a calm few days.
Nile Valley HotelHotel$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-1477, 012-2796-4473; www.nilevalley.nl; Al Gezira; s €22-30, d €27-35, f €35-50; aWs )
A delightful Dutch-Egyptian hotel in a modern block near the ferry landing. Rooms in both the cheaper old wing and the new wing are filled with light and come with good facilities (air-con, satellite TV, fridge). The rooftop bar-restaurant has fantastic views over the Nile to Luxor Temple, while the garden has a pool (and children’s pool) for after-temple cooling off.
Sheherazade HotelHotel$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0611-5939; www.hotelsheherazade.com; Al Gezira; s/d/tr US$30/35/40; aWs )
Mohamed El Sanosy’s dream of building a hotel has culminated in one of the most welcoming places to stay on the west bank and somewhere he takes great pride in. The comfortable and spacious rooms are decorated with local colour and furnishings, and all have en-suite bathrooms with water heated by solar panels. The Moorish-style building is surrounded by a garden.
Amon HotelGuesthouse$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0639-4585, 095-231-0912; www.amonhotel.com; Al Gezira; from €20 per person; aW )
Charming family-run hotel in a modern building with spotless rooms, free wi-fi, a wonderful, lush exotic garden (perfect for breakfast, lunch or a drink), extremely helpful staff and delicious home-cooked meals. This hotel is popular with archaeologists in winter, so book ahead.
In the new wing, the rooms are large with private bathrooms, ceiling fans, air-con and balconies overlooking the courtyard. In the old wing, some of the small rooms have private bathrooms, and all have air-con. On the top floor are three triple rooms with an adjoining terrace and stunning views over the Theban Hills and the east bank. There are some single and doubles with shared bathroom at €5 less.
House of ScorpionGuesthouse$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0512-8732; www.facebook.com/Scorpion.House.Luxor; Al Taref; s/d US$22/30; aW )
Charming little guesthouse in a mud-brick house with seven different themed rooms, all large with tiled bathrooms and small salons in Arab style. Tayeb, who runs the place, is very helpful and friendly. It’s away from the crowds and mainly works by word of mouth. It is essential to call or book ahead for both food (lunch/dinner LE50/100) and accommodation.
El Nakhil HotelHotel$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 012-2382-1007, 095-231-3922; www.elnakhil.com; Al Gezira; s/d/tr €25/35/45; aW )
Nestled in a palm grove, the Nakhil or ‘Palm Tree’ is on the edge of Al Gezira. This resort-style hotel has 17 spotless, well-finished domed rooms, all with private bathrooms and air-con. It also has family rooms, baby cots and three rooms that can cater for disabled guests. The large rooftop restaurant has great views over the Nile.
El Mesala HotelGuesthouse$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-5105, 010-6253-2186; www.hotelelmesala.com; Al Gezira, near ferry landing; s/d/tr/flat €25/35/47/55; aWs )
One of the better family-oriented hotels in Al Gezira on the west bank. The hotel is on the Nile, a stone’s throw from the ferry landing, and therefore perfectly located for visits on both banks. It has 17 immaculate rooms with comfortable beds, and with balconies looking at Luxor Temple and the Nile.
The staff and the manager Mr Ahmed are all extremely welcoming, and everything is absolutely spotless. The restaurant is in the front garden, and there’s a great rooftop terrace for sunbathing.
oAl MoudiraHotel$$$
( % 095-255-1440, 012-2392-8332; www.moudira.com; Daba’iyya; s/d from €150/180; aiWs )
Al Moudira is a luxury hotel of a stylish individuality. A fantasy of pointed arches and soaring domes set amid lush gardens and birdsong, the hotel is charming and peaceful. The huge rooms are grouped around a series of verdant courtyards. There is a tranquil restaurant and vibrant bar, a large pool and hammam (bathhouse), all run by friendly staff.
Each room is different in shape, size (all are very large) and decoration, with their own hand-painted trompe l’oeil theme and with Egyptian antiques. Cushioned benches and comfortable antique chairs invite pasha-like lounging and the enormous vaulted bathrooms feel like private hammams. Public spaces are even more spectacular with traditional mashrabiyya (wooden latticework) combined with work by contemporary ‘orientalist’ artists. The staff are very helpful. Set on the edge of the cultivated land and the desert, this hotel is spectacular and unique. Don’t let its isolation put you off: transport is quick and easy.
SELF-CATERING RENTAL
Families or those planning a prolonged stay in Luxor might consider a self-catering option. Flat rental is mushrooming in Luxor, on both banks; it is cheap, and many foreigners are getting involved in the business. The downside of self-catering is sex tourism, as there is very little control as to whom people can bring in, whereas in hotels foreigners are not allowed to take guests back to their room.
Several companies can arrange flat rentals, including Flats in Luxor (
% 010-0356-4540; www.flatsinluxor.co.uk; per night from US$50; ais ), run by a British-Egyptian couple who started renting out their own flats but now also manage others. The websites www.luxor-westbank.com and www.luxor4flats.com also have a wide selection.
5Eating
Most people come to Luxor for monuments as opposed to cuisine – a good thing as most restaurants, particularly in the hotels, have long been mediocre. But the food is improving, particularly where restaurants serve traditional Egyptian food. Outside of hotels, few places serve alcohol or accept credit cards.
Luxor has a number of good bakeries. Try the ones on Sharia Ahmed Orabi, at the beginning of Sharia Maabad Al Karnak and on Sharia Gedda. The best pastries come from Twinky (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Al Manshiya) near the railway station. There is also now a Drinkies (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.drinkies.net; next to railway station), selling Egyptian beer and wine. On the west bank, try the food and fruit shops on the main street in Al Gezira, or head for the wonderful weekly market Souq At Talaat, in Taref opposite the Temple of Seti I. Also on the west bank is Sa-Re Gourmet Food (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-9750-7767; www.sa-re.net; Al Gezira; h 9.30am-1pm & 5pm-8.30pm Sat-Thu), a small shop near the ferry selling fresh soup, duck à l’orange and other treats.
5East Bank
oWenkie’s German Ice Cream & Iced Coffee ParlourIce Cream $
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 012-8894-7380; www.facebook.com/wenkies; Sharia Al Gawazat, opposite the Nile Palace; small/large scoop LE3/5; h 2-8pm Sat-Thu)
For people who only opened up shop in 2014, Ernst and Babette Wenk have quickly become legends, serving the finest, most delicious ice cream in Luxor. Using organic buffalo milk and fresh fruit, they make and sell ices and sorbets with distinctly local flavours (think hibiscus, mango and doum palm).
The secret to their success is the quality of the product and the price. Wenkie’s also serves iced coffee, milkshakes and waffles. It tends to close on holidays and for a couple of months in the summer. Their ices are also available at the Crepe Cafe near Luxor Station.
oKoshari AlzaeemEgyptian $
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Al Masaken Al Shaabeya; dishes LE5-15; h 24hr)
Probably the best kushari (mix of noodles, rice, black lentils, fried onions and tomato sauce) in town. The few tables tend to fill up fast. There is a second branch near Midan Youssef Hassan.
Kam ThaiThai$
( % 012-7728-2490; www.kam-thai-takeaway.jimdo.com; mains LE40-60; h 1-9pm; 
v)
An excellent addition to the east bank dining scene is this authentic Thai. It’s a tiny place tucked away east of Sharia Khalid Ibn Al Walid, but worth finding if you hanker after hot spicy soup, stir-fried prawns or solid pad thai noodles. They also do takeaway.
Abu AshrafEgyptian$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-237-5936; Sharia Al Mahatta; dishes LE15-30; h 8am-11pm)
This large, popular restaurant and takeaway is just down from the train station. It serves roast chicken, pizzas, kebabs and good kushari.
oSofra Restaurant & CaféEgyptian$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-235-9752; www.sofra.com.eg; 90 Sharia Mohammed Farid; mezze LE16-25, mains LE45-85; h 11am-midnight)
Sofra remains our favourite restaurant in downtown Luxor. Both the intimate salons and the spacious rooftop terrace are stylishly decorated, sprinkled with antique furniture, chandeliers and original tilework. The menu features excellent mezze and well-executed traditional Egyptian classics such as stuffed pigeon and excellent duck. With friendly staff and shisha to finish, the place is a treat.
The rooftop terrace is also a cafe, where you can come just for a fresh juice or coffee (alcohol is not available) and shisha.
As Sahaby LaneEgyptian$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-236-5509; www.nefertitihotel.com/sahabi.htm; Sharia As Sahaby, off Sharia As Souq; dishes LE13-150; h 9am-11.30pm)
This easy-going restaurant takes over the alley way running between the souq and the street to the Karnak temples, and adjoins the Nefertiti Hotel. Fresh, well-prepared Egyptian standards like fiteer (sweet or savoury flaky pizza) and tagen (stew cooked in a deep clay pot) are served alongside good pizzas and salads, as well as more adventurous dishes such as camel with couscous.
The young staff are both friendly and efficient, and the terrace is a great place to watch the world go by, or relax after shopping in the souq.
Pizza Roma. ItItalian$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 011-1879-9559; Sharia St Joseph; pizzas around LE50, meat dishes up to LE150; h noon-midnight)
The most popular Italian restaurant in Luxor. Run by an Italian woman and her Egyptian partner, this small ochre-painted restaurant serves a long list of pastas, pizzas, some classic Italian meat dishes and a good rocket salad. No alcohol served, but you can bring your own.
Gerda’s GardenEgyptian, European$$
( % 012-2534-8326, 095-235-8688; opp Hilton Luxor, New Karnak; dishes LE15-45; h 6.30-11pm)
Gerda is one half of a German-Egyptian couple whose restaurant has built a strong following with European residents and regular visitors to Luxor. The decor is homely, provincial European bistro, but the menu features both Egyptian specials (kebab and delicious grilled pigeon) and very European comfort food for those slightly homesick, such as goulash and potato salad.
Oasis Palace CafeCafe$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Dr Labib Habashi; mains LE30-110; h 10am-midnight; Wv )
A rather charming and intimate cafe-restaurant set in a building dating back to the early 20th century, with high-ceilinged salons that still cling on to some of their original plaster lintel details. The menu is an all-round pleaser with shawarma plates, grilled meat and fish dishes, omelettes and even jacket potatoes. Service is attentive and friendly.
Jewel of the NileBritish, Egyptian$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-6252-2394; www.jewelofthenilerestaurant.com; Sharia Al Rawda Al Sherifa, 300m off Sharia Khaled Ibn Al Walid; mains LE45-85, set menu LE75-85; h noon-midnight; Wv )
Laura and Mahmud have survived the tourist downturn by offering traditional Egyptian food using organic vegetables from their farm, as well as British food for homesick Brits: steaks, cottage pie and apple crumble. The menu features a good selection of vegetarian dishes. The dining room is air-conditioned, and there is a small space outside. Alcohol available.
A Taste of IndiaIndian$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-9373-2727; www.facebook.com/tasteindialuxor; Sharia St Joseph, off Sharia Khaled Ibn Al Walid; dishes LE35-80; h noon-11pm)
A small British-run Indian restaurant in neutral colours with plain wooden tables and chairs. On the menu are European versions of Indian dishes such as korma, spinach masala and jalfrezi (marinated meat curry with tomato, pepper and onion), as well as original Indian specials such as madras and vindaloo curries.
Silk RoadAsian$$$
( % 095-237-4933; www.hiltonluxor.com; New Karnak; mains LE150-250; h 6.30-11pm; Wv )
Silk Road is one of the most sophisticated dining experiences in Luxor, offering an exotic cuisine, rich in spices, sourced from India, Thailand, China and elsewhere in Asia, and prepared by the wonderful Indian chef. The setting is Asian minimal chic. If the comprehensive menu leaves you at a loss, ask for a degustation of several dishes.
1886 RestaurantMediterranean$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-238-0425; www.sofitel.com; Winter Palace Hotel, Corniche An Nil; mains LE160-310; h 7-11pm)
The 1886 is the fanciest restaurant in the town centre, serving inventive Mediterranean-French food and a few Egyptian dishes with a twist, all in a grand old-style dining room. The waiters are in formal attire and guests are expected to dress for the occasion – men wear a tie and/or jacket (some are available for borrowing). A grand evening out!
5West Bank
Marsam RestaurantEgyptian$
(Sheikh Ali’s; MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.marsamluxor.com; West Bank, near the Ramesseum; mains LE50-100)
A lovely place to stop for for dinner on a warm evening or for lunch while seeing the west bank sights – you can sit in the courtyard under the huge trees and look out at the backs of the Colossi of Memnon. Either way food is simple, mostly Egyptian and very good. Service is friendly and can be slow. Alcohol served.
Nile Valley HotelInternational$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-1477; www.facebook.com/pg/Nilevalleyhotel; Al Gezira; meals LE40-80; h 8am-11pm)
A popular rooftop restaurant with a bird’s-eye view of the west bank’s waterfront, the river and Luxor Temple, the Nile Valley has a wide-ranging menu of Egyptian and international specialities. The falafel, moussaka and pigeon are particularly good. Come at lunch to escape the sun or after sundown for a beer with a view. They have events some evenings.
Restaurant MohammedEgyptian$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 012-0325-1307, 095-231-1014; Kom Lolah; mains LE40-80; h approx 10am-late)
Mohammed’s is an old-time Luxor throwback, a simple, family-run restaurant attached to the owner’s mud-brick house, where charming Mohammed Abdel Lahi serves with his son Azab, while his wife cooks. The small menu includes meat grills, delicious chicken and duck as well as stuffed pigeon, a local speciality. Stella beer and Egyptian wine are usually available.
With an outdoor terrace and laid-back atmosphere, it’s a great place to recharge batteries in the middle of a day exploring temples and tombs, or to linger in the evening. Call ahead to make sure it is open. They can also organise a picnic in the desert or on a felucca.
Al Gezira HotelEgyptian$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-0034; Al Gezira; set menu LE35)
This comfortable rooftop restaurant serves a set menu with Egyptian specialities, such as molokhiyya (stewed leaf soup) and mahshi kurumb (stuffed cabbage leaves cooked with dill and spices) that must be ordered in advance. There are great views over the Nile and the bright lights of Luxor beyond. Cool beers and Egyptian wine are on offer.
Al MoudiraMediterranean$$
( % 012-0325-1307; Daba’iyya; mains LE75-110; h 8am-midnight)
Al Moudira has the most flamboyant decor and most sophisticated (and expensive) food on the west bank. Come at lunch for great salads and grills, or at night for a more elaborate menu, which changes daily, of delicious Mediterranean-Lebanese cuisine. This is a great place for a romantic dinner in the courtyard, or by the fire in the winter. Reserve ahead.
6Drinking & Nightlife
6East Bank
Even without booming tourism, Luxor can be busy at night. Luxor Temple is open until 10pm and worth seeing at night; the souq is open late as well and more lively at night than during the day. In summer lots of locals stroll along the corniche. At sundown, settle onto an east bank riverside cafe or the terrace of the Winter Palace Hotel for a sundowner.
Kings Head PubPub
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-6510-2133; www.facebook.com/KingsHeadPubAndRestaurant; Sharia Khaled Ibn Al Walid; h noon-late)
A relaxed and perennially popular place to have a beer, shoot pool and watch sports on a big screen, the Kings Head tries to capture the atmosphere of an English pub without being twee. The laid-back atmosphere also means that women can come here without being harassed. At the time of writing, it had been up for sale for a long time.
CilantroCafe
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; lower level, Corniche An Nil; h 10am-8pm)
A pleasant, popular outdoor cafe, right on the Nile, in front of the Winter Palace Hotel. The former Metropolitan is now part of the Egyptian coffee chain Cilantro, serving dull though usually reliable snacks and good coffee. Away from the hassle of the corniche, right by the waterline, it’s a good place to while away a moment.
New Oum Koulsoum Coffee ShopCoffee
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 0128 909 9909; Sharia As Souq; h 10am-late)
Pleasant ahwa (coffeehouse) right in the heart of the souq, on a large terrace with welcoming mist machines, where you can recover from shopping and haggling, and watch the crowds without any hassle. On the menu are fresh juices, hot and cold drinks and a good shisha, as well as ‘professional Nespresso’ coffee.
Sultan CafeCafe
(Sharia Khalid Ibn Al Walid; h 10am-midnight)
If you want an evening with the people of Luxor city, you could head for the new Sultan Cafe. From the owner of neighbouring Maxime Restaurant, this huge place has a garden with the biggest TV screen in town, indoor air-con rooms, a range of fresh juices, milkshakes, hot drinks and shisha. Egyptian women come here too.
6West Bank
There are no real bars on the west bank; drinking is mostly done at restaurants or not at all.
After visiting the Tombs of the Nobles or the Ramesseum, take a break in the tree-shaded courtyard of the oldest mud-brick hotel in Luxor, the Marsam Hotel. They have fresh juices and cold beers to revive the spirits.
Cafe & Restaurant MaratongaCafe
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-0233; Kom Lolah; h 5am-11pm)
This friendly outdoor cafe-restaurant, in front of Medinat Habu, is the best place to stop after wandering through Ramses III’s magnificent temple. Sip a cold drink under a big tree or have a delicious tagen (a stew cooked in a deep clay pot) or salad for lunch. The view is superlative, the atmosphere is relaxing and the staff super friendly.
Ramesseum Rest HouseCafe
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0945-0789; beside the Ramesseum, Gurna; h 7am-1am)
One of the oldest cafe-restaurants on the west bank, come to this friendly, laid-back place to relax after temple viewings. In addition to the usual mineral water and soft drinks, beer and sometimes wine are available. They also serve simple food – grilled chicken, omelettes and salads.
Hatshepsut RestaurantRooftop Bar
(No Galag; MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-231-0469, 010-6975-6053; Gurna, near Temple of Hatshepsut; h noon-11pm)
Facing the Theban hillside and with a sign that says ‘NO GALAG’ (no problem or pressure), this is the place to come sip a cold beer while watching belly dancing on the west bank – Sundays and some Thursday evenings, after 10pm. Call before you visit to be sure it is happening.
3Entertainment
Karnak Sound & Light ShowShow
( % 02-3385-7320; www.soundandlight.com.eg; LE100, video camera LE35; h shows at 7pm, 8pm & 9pm in winter, at 8pm, 9pm & 10pm in summer)
This highly kitsch sound and light show is a 1½-hour Hollywood-style extravaganza that recounts the history of Thebes and the lives of the many pharaohs who built here in honour of Amun, but it is worth a visit particularly for a chance to walk through the beautifully lit temple at night. Shows are cancelled if less than seven people arrive.
The 1st show is always in English, except for Wednesdays and Sundays, when it is the 2nd.
7Shopping
For alabaster, head for the west bank. The stone is mined about 80km northwest of the Valley of the Kings, and although the alabaster factories near the Ramesseum and Deir Al Bahri sell cheap handmade cups, vases and lights in the shape of Nefertiti’s head, it is possible to find higher-quality bowls and vases, often unpolished, which are great buys. Take care when buying, as sometimes what passes for stone is actually wax with stone chips. Avoid going with a tour guide as his commission will invariably be added to your bill.
The tagen (clay pots) that are used in local cooking make a more unusual buy. Very practical, they can be used to cook on top of the stove or in the oven, and they look good on the table too. Prices start at LE30 for a very small pot and go up to about LE80. They’re on sale on the street just beside the police station in Luxor’s east bank.
oCaravanseraiArts & Crafts
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 012-2327-8771; www.caravanserailuxor.com; Kom Lolah; h 8am-10pm)
This delightful treasure trove of Egyptian crafts, near Medinat Habu on the west bank, is run by friendly Khairy and his family. Inside you’ll find beautiful pottery from the Western Oases, Siwan embroideries, a colourful selection of handwoven scarves, amazing appliqué bags and many other crafts that can be found almost nowhere else in Egypt. All at highly reasonable prices.
Recognising that making crafts was one of the few things poor Egyptian women could do to earn money, Khairy set up the shop to encourage and help them. He buys almost everything people make, telling them what sells well and suggesting ways of improving their designs. Above all, he loves people’s creativity.
HabibaArts & Crafts
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0124-2026; www.habibagallery.com; Sharia Andrawes Pasha, off Sharia As Souq; h 10am-10pm)
Run by an Australian woman who promotes the best of Egyptian crafts, Habiba sells an ever-expanding selection of top quality Bedouin embroidery, jewellery, leatherwork, wonderful Siwan scarves, cotton embroidered scarves from Sohag, the best Egyptian cotton towels (usually only for export), mirrors, Aswan baskets and much more – all at fixed prices. New lines include locally made shea-butter products.
Aboudi Bookshop & CoffeshopBooks
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-237-2390, 010-1098-7293; www.aboudi-bookstore.com; Sharia Maabad Al Karnak, behind Luxor Temple; h 9.30am-10pm)
For more than a century, Aboudi has been offering an excellent selection of guidebooks, English-language books on Egypt and the Middle East, maps, postcards and fiction. If you need a read, this is the place to come. Upstairs is a coffeeshop with a great view over Luxor Temple.
SandoukArts & Crafts
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0093-4980; Al Gezira)
A new shop a short walk from the west bank ferry landing selling a selection of original and beautifully designed objects, from pottery, wood and alabaster to fashion.
Fair Trade CentreArts & Crafts
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-236-0870, 010-0034-7900; Sharia Maabad Al Karnak; h 9am-10.30pm)
This shop markets handicrafts from NGO projects throughout Egypt. It has well-priced hand-carved wood and pottery from the nearby villages of Hejaza and Garagos, aromatic oils from Quz, beadwork from Sinai, hand-blown glass, Akhmim table linen, beading from the west bank in Luxor, and recycled glass and paper from Cairo.
AA Gaddis BookshopSouvenirs, Books
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095 238 7042; Corniche An Nil; h 10am-9pm Mon-Sat, from 10.30am Sun, closed Jun & Jul)
Next door to the Winter Palace Hotel, as it has been for generations, Gaddis has an extensive selection of books on Egypt, postcards and souvenirs.
Abo El Hassan Alabaster FactoryArts & Crafts
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-6733-3081; west bank, opposite Tombs of the Nobles; h 8am-4pm)
Mohamed Yousef’s shop has a wide range of alabaster and other carved stone on sale. Unlike many other alabaster shops, he will admit that the stone doesn’t come from the Theban hills, but from Asyut and Minya. There is a display of stone-working techniques, no hard sell and the shop is air-conditioned. Prices range from LE100 to thousands.
Saad Barbary AliArts & Crafts
(Sharia Khaled Ibn Al Walid)
If you hanker after an old-style souvenir shop packed with dusty shelves of copper, alabaster and other Egyptian crafts, head to Saad’s emporium near the ACHTI Luxor Resort turnoff. You’re certain to find something to take home.
Farouk GalleryAntiques
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-6802-9151; www.facebook.com/Farouk-Gallery-Luxor-932610310141883)
The only real antiques shop in Luxor, recently set up on the west bank not far from the Antiquities Inspectorate ticket office. They sell a selection of objects from Luxor and the area, some early 20th century, some newer. Call ahead to make sure they are open.
Bazaar Al AyamClothing
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Tourist Bazaar)
Good place for embroidered shawls and white galabeyas (men’s robes). This is where Egyptians come to shop.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
ABusiness has been so slow recently that Luxor’s once notorious hasslers seem to have lost heart, though you will still be offered feluccas and motorboats on the corniche and a range of tat as you walk through the souq and the entrance to the Valley of the Kings.
ASome calèche (horse-drawn carriage) drivers can be persistent, pushed by the need to feed their horses, many quite malnourished.
AYou may also be propositioned or offered sex – offers you should ignore. All this hassle is a sign of the desperate financial situation that Egypt, and particularly Luxor, is in.
Emergency
| Ambulance | % 123 |
| Ambulance | % 122 |
| Ambulance | % 095-237-6820 |
Medical Services
Dr Ihab Rizk ( % 095-238-2525, 012-2216-0846) English-speaking cardiologist, who will come to your hotel; on the east bank.
Luxor Medical Cent (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-228-4092, 010-2004-7091; www.luxormedicalcenter.com; Villa Kamal, Sharia St Joseph; h 24hr)re
International Hospital (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-228-0192, 095-227-7914; Sharia Televizyon; h 24hr)
Money
Most major Egyptian banks have branches in Luxor, and there is no shortage of ATMs on the east bank. There are now a couple of ATMs on the west bank, but it is best not to count on them working.
American Express (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-237-8333; Corniche An Nil; h 9am-4.30pm) Currency exchange beside the entrance to the Winter Palace Hotel.
Travel Choice Egypt Currency exchange below the entrance to the Winter Palace Hotel.
Tourist Information
Main Tourist Office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-237-3294, 095-237-2215; Midan Al Mahatta; h 9am-8pm) Very helpful and well-informed tourist information opposite the train station. The office can also book hotels and tours, and sell tickets for the sound and light show in Karnak. There are branches of the tourist office in the train station (MAP; %095-237-0259; Train Station; h 8am-8pm) and the airport ( % 095-237-2306; Luxor Airport; h 8am-8pm) too, although with the lack of visitors they may not be functioning.
Visa Extensions
If you need to extend your visa, the Passport Office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-238-0885; Sharia Khaled Ibn Al Walid; h 8am-2pm Sat-Thu) is on the east bank, opposite the Sonesta St George Hotel. You will need two passport photos and two photocopies of the photo page and visa page from your passport. It is best to go first thing in the morning and be prepared to wait, although they sometimes turn things around quickly.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Luxor Airport (% 095-232-4455) is 7km east of central Luxor. EgyptAir (www.egyptair.com) operates regular flights to Cairo from LE730.
Bus
The Upper Egypt Bus Co (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-232-3218, 095-237-2118; Midan Al Mahatta; h 7am-10pm) and Super Jet (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 095-236-7732; Midan Al Mahatta; h 8am-10pm) have ticket offices just south of the train station. The Go Bus office (MAP; % 010-0779-1286; www.gobus-eg.com; Sharia Ramses) is just to the north. Most bus services leave from outside of the respective ticket office; check when booking. A taxi from downtown Luxor to the bus offices costs between LE25 and LE35.
To go to the Western Desert oases, take a train to Asyut, from where there are several buses a day to Kharga and Dakhla.
Felucca
You can’t take a felucca from Luxor to Aswan; most feluccas leave from Esna because of the Esna Lock. Unless you have a strong wind, it can take days to go more than a few kilometres upriver and, for this reason, we recommend taking a felucca downstream from Aswan.
Microbus & Servees
The parking lot for microbuses and servees heading to towns outside of Luxor is behind, and about 1km north of, the train station. From here regular microbuses and a few servees head south to Esna (LE8), Edfu (LE12), Kom Ombo (LE20) and Aswan (LE35); and north to Qena (LE7).
Officially, foreigners are not currently allowed to use this transport, although some drivers might take you given the right financial inducement. Be aware, though, that if you’re unlucky and get stopped at a checkpoint along the route, the police may ask for a bribe to allow you to carry on, make the entire microbus turn around and head back to Luxor, or, at the worst, confiscate the driver’s licence.
Train
The train is a comfortable and easy way to travel south to Aswan and north to Cairo. Special services have newer rolling stock and slightly bigger seats than Spanish services.
Luxor Station ( % 095-237-2018; Midan Al Mahatta) has a tourist office, plenty of card phones and a post office. All train tickets are best bought in advance; if you buy your ticket on the train there is a surcharge of LE6.
The Watania Sleeping Train (www.wataniasleepingtrains.com) has a ticket booking office inside the station.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
There is no bus between the airport and the town, and no official price for taxis from Luxor airport into town, so the drivers set their prices, often at about LE100 or more. Quite often there is not enough work for all the drivers, so when you try to take a taxi, an argument between drivers may erupt. In short, it is a major hassle. If you want peace of mind, ask your accommodation to arrange your transfer.
Bicycle
The compact town lends itself to cycling, and distances on the generally flat west bank are just far enough to provide some exercise but not to be exhausting (except when the weather is too hot). Cycling at night is not recommended given the local habit of driving without headlights.
Many hotels rent out bikes. Prices vary, as does the quality of bikes. You might find one for LE25 a day, or LE10 an hour. Be sure to check roadworthiness – there’s nothing worse than getting stuck with a broken chain halfway to the Valley of the Kings.
You can take bikes across to the west bank on the baladi (local) ferry, or pick one up for LE25 a day from the excellent Mohamed Setouhy (Gezira Bike Rental; MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0223-9710; LE25 per day; h 7am-7pm) on the west bank.
BUS SERVICES FROM LUXOR
| DESTINATION | PRICE | DURATION | TIME/COMPANY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cairo | LE150-275 | 10-12hr | 10pm (Upper Egypt); 9am, 1pm & 10.15pm (Super Jet); 1pm, 9.30pm, 11.45pm & 12.30am (Go Bus) |
| Dahab | LE210 | 18hr | 5pm (Upper Egypt) |
| Hurghada | LE50-90 | 4-5hr | 7am & 8.30pm (Upper Egypt); 8.30am & 7pm (Super Jet); 8am & 3.30pm (Go Bus) |
| Port Said | LE115 | 12hr | 8pm (Upper Egypt) |
| Sharm El Sheikh | LE175 | 14hr | 5pm (Upper Egypt) |
| Suez | LE90-100 | 9-10hr | 7am & 8.30pm (Upper Egypt) |
All Upper Egypt Bus Co. services heading north can drop you in Qena (LE5). Buses travelling to Hurghada can drop you in Safaga (LE50), where you can change for Al Quseir and Marsa Alam.
TRAINS FROM LUXOR
Prices are for a 1st-class air-con seat.
| DESTINATION | PRICE | DURATION | TIME |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aswan | Spanish/Special LE53/94 | 3hr | 4.30am, 7.35am, 9.45am & 10.35pm (Spanish); 2.50am, 6.20am, 6.45am, 8.15am, 6.25pm & 7.40pm (Special) |
| Cairo | Spanish/Special LE114/203 | 10hr | 1.15am, 10.55am, 8pm & 11.35pm (Spanish); 9.10am, 12.30pm, 2pm, 6.20pm, 7.10pm, 9.10pm & 11.59pm (Special) |
| Cairo (Watania Sleeping Train) | 1-/2-bed berth US$120/100 | 9hr | 8.10pm |
All trains south to Aswan stop at Esna, Edfu and Kom Ombo. All trains north to Cairo stop at Qena (for Dendara), Balyana (for Abydos) and Asyut (for the Western Desert).
Donkeys & Camels
Donkeys and camels with guides can sometimes be rented at the ferry landing, but it’s safer to rent them from a recognised stable such as Nobi’s Arabian Horse Stables.
Felucca
There is a fleet of feluccas to take you on short trips around Luxor, leaving from various points all along the river. How much you pay depends on your bargaining skills, but expect about LE50 to LE80 for an hour of sailing.
Ferry
Most tourists on organised tours cross to the west bank by bus or taxi via the bridge, about 8km south of town. But the river remains the quickest way to go. The baladi ferry costs LE2 for foreigners and runs between the dock (MAP) in front of Luxor Temple and the dock fronting Gezira village on the west bank. Small motor launches (locally called ‘lunches’) also leave from wherever they can find customers and will take you across for LE20.
Horse-Drawn Carriages
Known as calèche or hantour, horse-drawn carriages cost from LE20 to LE100 per hour depending on your haggling skills and the desperation of the driver. Expect to pay about LE30 to get to Karnak from downtown.
Microbus
Microbuses are often the quickest and easiest way to get about in Luxor. They ply fixed routes and will stop whenever flagged down. Just shout your destination to the driver and if he’s going that way he’ll stop and pick you up. To get to the Karnak temples, take a microbus from the main microbus station (MAP GOOGLE MAP) directly behind Luxor Train Station, or from behind Luxor Temple, for LE1. Other routes run inside the town.
The west bank’s kabouts (pickup trucks) have nearly all now been replaced with microbuses, which operate until around 10pm (LE1 per ride). They run back and forth between the villages so you can always flag one down on your way to one of the sites, although you will have to walk from the main road to the entrance which, in the case of the Valleys of the Kings or Queens, is quite far. The microbus lot (MAP) is close to the ferry landing. All microbuses heading to Gurna can drop you at the main ticket office. Most drivers are also more than happy for you to hire the entire vehicle – private hire costs LE20 to LE30 between the ferry terminal in Gizera and the ticket office.
Taxi
There are plenty of taxis in Luxor, but passengers still have to bargain hard for trips. A short trip around town is likely to cost at least LE20. Taxis can also be hired for day trips around the west bank; expect to pay LE200 to LE300, depending on the length of the excursion and your bargaining skills. The West Bank Taxis (MAP GOOGLE MAP) stand is just inland from the public ferry landing.