Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents
Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | Planning
Updated by Kate Springer
Enter the desperate, smoky atmosphere of a Chinese casino, where frumpy players bet an average of five times more than the typical Vegas gambler. Sit down next to grandmothers who smoke like chimneys while playing baccarat—the local game of choice—with visiting high rollers. Then step out of the climate-controlled chill and into tropical air that embraces you like a warm, balmy hug. Welcome to Macau.
The many contrasts in this tiny enclave of 555,000 people serve as reminders of how different cultures have embraced one another’s traditions for hundreds of years. Though Macau’s population is 95% ethnic Chinese, there are still vibrant pockets of Portuguese and Filipino expats. And some of the thousands of Eurasians—who consider themselves neither Portuguese nor Chinese, but something in between—can trace the intermarriage of their ancestors back a century or two.
Macau’s old town, while dominated by the buildings, squares, and cobblestone alleyways of colonial Portugal, is tinged with eastern influences as well. In Macau you can spend an afternoon exploring Buddhist temples before feasting on a dinner of bacalhau com natas (dried codfish with a cream sauce), grilled African chicken (spicy chicken in a coconut-peanut broth—a classic Macanese dish), Chinese lobster with scallions, or fiery prawns infused with Indian and Malaysian flavors. Wash everything down with vinho verde, the crisp young wine from northern Portugal, and top it all off with a traditional Portuguese pastel de nata (egg-custard tart) and dark, thick espresso.
Top Reasons to Go
Discover the Ruins of São Paulo. The church façade, all that remains of a former center of learning, is a symbol of Macau.
Take a seat in Senado Square. A bench here is the perfect perch from which to watch Macau’s comings and goings while admiring the colonial surroundings.
Explore the A-Ma Temple. It’s steeped in Macau’s culture and history. Search for the Lucky Money Pool, then wash your hands in the blessed water before heading to the casinos.
Place Your Bets. Even if you don’t gamble, take a peek inside the Lisboa, a classic Macau landmark, or the newer and splashier Venetian, a sprawling complex where singing gondoliers glide down indoor canals and luxury shopping abounds.
Spaaahhh. Macau’s spas have ultra-indulgent treatments and world-class facilities—with prices to match. But for many, the pampering is well worth the expense.
Getting Oriented
Macau, a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of the People’s Republic of China, is on the western bank of the Pearl River Delta, about an hour from Hong Kong by hydrofoil. It consists of the Macau Peninsula and Taipa and Coloane islands. The Cotai area, a glitzy, Vegas-like strip of hotels and casinos that began development in 2006, lies between Taipa and Coloane and virtually merges the two.
Most people visit Macau to gamble, eat cheap seafood, and shop. But don’t overlook its timeless charms and unique culture, born from centuries of both Portuguese and Chinese influence.
Downtown Macau. You’ll experience authentic Macau in squares, along cobblestone streets, and in European-style sidewalk cafés, as well as in Buddhist temples, with their red lanterns and fragrant joss sticks. In this exotic place where two worlds collide, don’t be surprised to find a pink colonial Portuguese building housing a Chinese herbal medicine shop.
Taipa Island. Although the Portuguese presence on Macau dates from the mid-1500s, Taipa wasn’t occupied until the mid-1800s. The island remained a garrison and a pastoral retreat until the 1970s, when it was linked to Macau by bridge. Today some parts retain a village feel, while others are crowded with soul-less high-rises.
Cotai. The 3-km (2-mile) causeway that once separated Coloane from Taipa has been bridged by a massive land-reclamation and development project that includes casinos and hotels, resorts, and shopping malls.
Coloane Island. The larger island remains less populated and more intimate than Taipa, and few tourists venture this far south. It’s also known for its parks, beaches, and golf links, as well as unchanged Portuguese architecture and cobblestone streets.
Planning
The Basics
The Macau Government Tourist Office (MGTO) is well managed.
To enter Macau, Americans and Canadians need only a valid passport for stays of up to 30 days, while EU citizens can stay for 90.
The Macanese pataca (MOP) has a fixed exchange rate of MOP$1.032 to HK$1 and roughly MOP$8 to US$1. Patacas come in 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1,000 MOP banknotes plus 1, 2, and 5 MOP coins. A pataca is divided into 100 avos, which come in 10-, 20-, and 50-avo coins. Hong Kong dollars are accepted in Macau on a 1:1 basis.
Contacts
Macau Government Tourist Office (MGTO).
335–341, Alameda Dr. Carlos d’Assumpção | 853/2833–3000 in Macau, 8238–8680 in Hong Kong | www.macautourism.gov.mo.
Language
Chinese and Portuguese are Macau’s official languages. Cantonese and Mandarin are widely spoken. English is unreliable outside tourist areas. It’s best to print your destination in Chinese characters for taxi drivers.
Getting to Macau
Air Travel
International flights (from Asia) come into Macau, but there are no planes from Hong Kong. Fifteen-minute helicopter flights fly between Hong Kong’s Shun Tak Centre and the Macau Ferry Terminal on Sky Shuttle; they leave every 30 minutes from 9 am to 11 pm daily. Prices are HK$3,700 Monday to Thursday with an HK$200 surcharge on Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and holidays. Reservations are essential.
Contacts
Sky Shuttle. | 853/2872–7288 Macau Terminal, 2108–9898 Shun Tak Centre | www.skyshuttlehk.com. Macau International Airport. | 853/2886–1111 | www.macau-airport.com/en.
Ferry Travel
Ferries run between Hong Kong and Macau every 15 minutes with a reduced schedule from midnight to 7 am. Prices for economy/ordinary and super/deluxe run HK$151–HK$291. VIP cabins begin at HK$1,164 (four seats) to HK$1,746 (six seats). Weekday traffic is usually light, so you can buy tickets right before departure. Weekend tickets often sell out, so make reservations. You can book tickets up to 90 days in advance with China Travel Service (www.ctshk.com) agencies or directly with CotaiJet or TurboJET by phone or online. Booking by phone requires a Visa card. You must pick up tickets at the terminal at least a half hour before departure.
Most ferries leave from Hong Kong’s Shun Tak Centre Sheung Wan MTR station in Central, though limited service is available from First Ferry at Kowloon’s Tsim Sha Tsui terminal. In Macau most ferries disembark from the main Macau Ferry Terminal, but CotaiJet services the terminal on Taipa Island. The trip takes one hour each way. Buses, taxis, and free shuttles to most casinos and hotels await on the Macau side.
Contacts
CotaiJet. | 853/2885–0595 in Macau, 2359–9990 in Hong Kong | cotaijet.com.mo. First Ferry. | 2131–8181 | www.nwff.com.hk. TurboJET. | 2859–3333 information | www.turbojet.com.hk/en.
Getting Around Macau
Bus Travel
Public buses are clean and affordable; trips to anywhere in the Macau Peninsula cost MOP$3.20. Service to Taipa Island is MOP$4.20, service to Coloane is MOP$5, and the trip to Hác Sá is MOP$6.40. Buses run 6:30 am–midnight and require exact change upon boarding. But you can get downtown for free, via casino shuttles, from the official Border Gate crossing just outside mainland China, from the airport, and from the Macau Ferry Terminal.
Car Travel
As in Hong Kong, driving in Macau is on the left-hand side of the road. Road signs are in Chinese and Portuguese only. Rental cars with Avis are available at the Grand Lapa Hotel. Regular cars start at MOP$700 on weekdays and MOP$850 on weekends. Book three to four days in advance for weekend rentals.
Contact
Avis. | 853/2833–6789 in Macau, 2882–2927 in Hong Kong | www.avis.com.
Taxi Travel
Taxis are inexpensive but not plentiful in Macau. The best places to catch a cab are the major casinos—the Wynn, Lisboas, Sands, and Venetian. Carry a bilingual map or ask the concierge at your hotel to write the name of your destination in Chinese. All taxis are metered, air-conditioned, and reasonably comfortable. The base charge is MOP$15 for the first 1.6 km (1 mile) and MOP$1.50 per additional 230 meters. Trips between Coloane and either the Macau Peninsula or Taipa incur respective surcharges of MOP$5 and MOP$2. Drivers don’t expect a tip.
A Casino Crawl in Macau
These days, casinos are as much a part of the character of Macau as its cobblestone streets. Don’t expect dusty, down-to-earth caverns, though. This neon-clad city is all glam and glitz, chandeliers and sommeliers. Win or lose, checking out casinos is all part of the fun of being in Macau, and this itinerary includes some cultural sights, too.
Planning
Where to stay: MGM Macau, Wynn Macau, Altira Macau
Where to eat and drink: Margaret’s Café e Nata, Portas Do Sol, Il Teatro, Robuchon au Dôme, 38 Lounge
Where to play: The Lisboa, The Grand Lisboa, Wynn Macau, Altira Macau
What to see: Senado Square, Ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral, Grand Prix Museum, Macau Canidrome, House of Dancing Water
Itinerary
1. Margaret’s Café e Nata. Start the day with a warm, flaky egg tart.
2. Largo do Senado. You almost have to go home with the obligatory Ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral photo. Saunter through Senado Square for a quick hit of history.
3. Wynn Macau. Break from the maddening crowds and head to this swish address. With thick, beige drapes and plush furniture, the casino offers VIP treatment.
4. Hotel Lisboa. The infamous basement corridors and sparkling gaming floors of the Lisboa sister hotels are just a few blocks from the Wynn.
5. Portas do Sol. Spend any remaining change you have left on dim sum. The pork buns and soup dumplings won’t disappoint.
6. Grand Prix Museum. A bit farther north, you’ll find colorful Formula 3 cars and memorabilia, as well as Macau’s Wine Museum next door.
7. Cotai Strip. Fast and furious in its own right, Cotai is constantly expanding. Despite a stream of incoming resort-cum-casino complexes, the Venetian remains the highlight with 2,000 slot machines and 550 gaming tables.
8. House of Dancing Water. Snag tickets to the city’s most mesmerizing show, staged in the City of Dreams Complex.
9. Robuchon au Dôme: If you hit the jackpot, head to this French dining room for an unforgettable meal—and price tag.
(option) 9. 38 Lounge. Those ending the day with thinner wallets may opt for tapas and cocktails on the top floor of Altira hotel. Views are free.
10. Macau Canidrome. The greyhound racetrack operates every evening except Wednesdays and Fridays. You won’t find ersatz frescoes in this doghouse.
Tours
Depending on your mind-set, you can join a group tour of Macau or make one to order.
Cotai Travel.
Cotai Travel hosts daily tours from 9 am to 1 pm that include the Taipa Houses-Museum, Senado Square, and the A-Ma Temple for MOP$400 per person. | Shop 1028, Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel | 853/8118–2933.
Book at least one day in advance from one of many travel agents in Hong Kong. Browse your options at the travel counters of the main ferry terminals in either Macau or Hong Kong, or check www.macautourism.gov.mo for a list of authorized travel agencies in Macau; some offer tours in multiple languages.
Estoril Tours.
Estoril Tours will customize a private group tour, from bungee-jumping off the Macau Tower to wandering through Coloane Village or a day visiting museums. | Shop 3711A, 3rd fl., Shun Tak Centre, 200 Connaught Rd., Central | Hong Kong, Hong Kong–China | 2559–1028 | www.estoril.com.mo.
Exploring Macau’s Culture
Macau’s historical reputation may have been eclipsed by an ever-expanding matrix of casinos, but this former Portuguese colony has much to offer in the way of heritage and beauty. From the cobblestone streets to colonial facades, museums to Moorish architecture, fortresses to street food, Macau remains a city of color, character, and top-notch cuisine.
Planning
Where to stay: Pousada de Sao Tiago, Altira Macau, Wynn Macau
Where to eat and drink: A Lorcha, Margaret’s Café e Nata, Fernando’s, MacauSoul
What to see: Senado Square, Ruins of St. Paul, Guia Lighthouse, A-Ma Temple, Moorish Barracks
Itinerary
1. Leitaria i Son. Sip on fresh juices while munching on an egg tart at Literati, one of Senado Square’s most beloved cafés.
2. Largo do Senado. See everything or just the standouts, which include the House of Holy Mercy, St. Dominic’s Church, The Cathedral and, of course, the Ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral, and neighboring Na Tcha temple.
3. Macau Museum and Fortress. Head inside to see how Macau has evolved.
4. Margaret’s Café e Nata. Heading northeast along Avenida da Amizade, pop in for a quick lunch. Choose from flaky egg tarts, pastries, and made-to-order sandwiches.
5. Guia Hill Lighthouse and Fortress. Take the short cable car ride up Guia Hill, or lace up your sneakers and hike past quirky shrubs manicured to resemble dragons.
6. Largo do Barra. Anchoring Barra Square, the A-Ma Temple was built in 1488 for the goddess of the sea. This tiered Taoist temple is one of the oldest in Macau. Next door, find The Mandarin’s House—a complex showcasing traditional Guangdong architecture—and the Maritime Museum.
7. Pousada de São Tiago. If you’re feeling peckish, stop by The Terrace for a tipple or high tea.
8. Penha Hill. From there, head straight for the dominating facade of Bishop’s Palace and the Chapel of Our Lady Penha.
9. Moorish Barracks. Originally housing a regiment from Goa to bolster local police, this neoclassical and Moghul complex has stood since 1874.
10. A Lorcha. Just off of Barra Square, the ever-popular Macanese eatery serves up hearty favorites in a friendly atmosphere. Best to make reservations.
11. Macau Soul. Digest over Portuguese wine and live music at this jazzy venue.
Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents