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Downtown Macau | Taipa Island | Coloane Island
Macau is a small place, where on a good day you can drive from one end to the other in 30 minutes. This makes walking the ideal way to explore winding city streets, nature trails, and long stretches of beach. Most of Macau’s population lives on the peninsula attached to mainland China. The region’s most famous sights are here—Senado Square, the Ruins of St. Paul’s, A-Ma Temple—as are most of the luxury hotels and casinos. As in the older sections of Hong Kong, cramped older buildings stand comfortably next to gleaming new structures.
Downtown Macau
Chances are you’ll arrive at the Macau Ferry Terminal after sailing from Hong Kong. There’s not much to see around the terminal itself, so hop into one of the many waiting casino or hotel shuttles (free) and head straight downtown, less than 10 minutes away. From there it’s a short walk to the city’s historic center, along the short stretch of road named Avenida Almeida Ribeiro, more commonly known as San Ma Lo, which is Macau’s commercial and cultural heart.
Top Attractions
Fodor’s Choice | Fortaleza da Guia.
This fort built between 1622 and 1638 on Macau’s highest hill was key to protecting the Portuguese from invaders. You can walk the steep, winding road up to the fortress or take a five-minute cable-car ride from the entrance of Flora Garden on Avenida Sidónio Pais. Once inside, notice the gleaming white Guia Lighthouse (you can’t go up, but you can get a good look at the exterior) that’s lit every night. Next to it is the Guia Chapel, built by Clarist nuns to provide soldiers with religious services. Restoration work in 1998 uncovered elaborate frescoes mixing western and Chinese themes. They’re best seen when the morning or afternoon sun floods the chapel, which is no longer used for services. | Guia Hill, Downtown | 853/8399–6699 | Free | Daily 9–5:30.
Igreja de São Domingos (St. Dominic’s Church).
The cream-and-white interior of one of Macau’s most beautiful churches takes on a heavenly golden glow when illuminated for services. St. Dominic’s was originally a convent founded by Spanish Dominican friars in 1587. In 1822 China’s first Portuguese newspaper, The China Bee, was published here, and the church became a repository for sacred art in 1834 when convents were banned in Portugal. TIP Admission to all churches and temples is free, though donations are suggested. | Largo de São Domingos, Downtown | Daily 8–6.
Fodor’s Choice | Largo do Senado(Senado Square).
The charming hub of Macau for centuries, open only to pedestrians and paved in shiny black-and-white tiles, is lined with neoclassical-style colonial buildings painted in bright pastels. TheEdifício do Leal Senado (Senate Building) that gives the square its name was built in 1784 as a municipal chamber and continues to be used by the government today. An elegant meeting room on the first floor opens onto a magnificent library based on one in the Mafra Convent in Portugal, with books neatly stacked on two levels of shelves reaching to the ceiling, and art and historical exhibitions are frequently hosted in the beautiful foyer and garden. Alleys adjacent to the square are packed with restaurants and shops. TIP Visit on a weekday to avoid the crowds, and try to come back at night, when locals of all ages gather to chat and the square is beautifully lit. | Downtown.
Quick Bites: Margaret’s Café e Nata. Not far off the main drag but somewhat hidden down an alleyway, Margaret’s Café e Nata offers a cool—albeit increasingly crowded—place to sit, outside under fans and awnings, with some of the best custard tarts in town, plus fresh juices, sandwiches, homemade tea blends, and pizza slices. | Rua Comandante Mata e Oliveira, Downtown | 853/2871–0032.
Leitaria i Son. Look for the small cow sign marking the out-of-the-ordinary Leitaria i Son milk bar. The decor is cafeteria-style and spartan, but the bar whips up frothy glasses of fresh milk from its dairy and blends them with all manner of juices: papaya, coconut, apricot, and more. | Largo do Senado 7, Downtown | 853/2857–3638.
Macau Canidrome.
The greyhound track looks rundown and quaint compared to the bigger Jockey Club and glitzy casinos, but it offers a true taste of Macau in a popular neighborhood near the China border crossing. The Canidrome opened in 1932; it tends to attract a steady crowd of older gamblers several times a week for the slower-pace, lower-stakes gambling rush of betting on fast dogs chasing an electronic rabbit. Check out the parade of race dogs before each race. You can sit on benches in the open-air stadium, at tables in the air-conditioned restaurant, or in an upstairs box seat. | Av. do Artur Tamagnini Barbosa at Av. General Castelo Branco, Downtown | 853/2833–3399, 853/2826–1188 to place bets | www.macauyydog.com | Public stands MOP$10, private box seats MOP$120 | Mon., Tues., Thurs., and weekends 6 pm–11:45 pm; first race at 7:30.
Fodor’s Choice | Macau Tower Convention & Entertainment Centre.
Rising above peaceful San Van Lake, the 335-meter (1,100-foot) freestanding tower recalls Sky Tower, a similar structure in New Zealand—and it should, as both were designed by New Zealand architect Gordon Moller. The Macau Tower offers a variety of thrills, including the Mast Climb, which challenges the daring and strong of heart and body with a two-hour climb on steel rungs 105 meters (344 feet) up the tower’s mast for incomparable views of Macau and China. Other thrills include the Skywalk X, an open-air stroll around the tower’s exterior—without handrails; the SkyJump, an assisted, decelerated 233-meter (765-foot) descent; and the world’s highest bungee jump. More subdued attractions inside the tower are a mainstream movie theater and a revolving lunch, high tea, and dinner buffet at the 360-degree Café. | Largo da Torre de Macau, Downtown | 853/2893–3339 | www.macautower.com.mo | MOP$688 for Skywalk X to MOP$2,488 for the Mast Climb; photos extra. | Observation deck, weekdays 10–9, weekends and holidays 9–9.
Fodor’s Choice | Ruínas de São Paulo (Ruins of St. Paul’s Church).
Only the magnificent, towering facade, with its intricate carvings and bronze statues, remains from the original Church of Mater Dei, built between 1602 and 1640 and destroyed by fire in 1835. The church, an adjacent college, and Mount Fortress, all Jesuit constructions, once formed East Asia’s first western-style university. The ruins are now the widely adopted symbol of Macau, a tourist attraction with snack bars and antiques and other shops at the foot of the site. The smallMuseum of Sacred Art and Crypt tucked behind the facade of São Paulo holds statues, crucifixes, and the bones of Japanese and Vietnamese martyrs. There are also some intriguing Asian interpretations of Christian images, including samurai angels and a Chinese Virgin and Child. | Top end of Rua de São Paulo, Downtown | 853/8399–6699 | Free | Ruins, daily 8–5; museum, daily 9–6.
Santa Casa da Misericordia.
Founded in 1569 by Dom Belchior Carneiro, Macau’s first bishop, the Holy House of Mercy is the China coast’s oldest Christian charity, and it continues to take care of the poor with soup kitchens and health clinics, as well as providing housing for the elderly. The exterior, with its imposing white facade, is neoclassical, but the interior is done in a contrasting opulent, modern style. A reception room on the second floor contains paintings of benefactress Marta Merop. | 2 Travessa da Misericordia, Downtown | 853/2857–3938 | MOP$5 | Mon.–Sat. 10–1 and 2:30–5:30.
Fodor’s Choice | Templo de A-Ma.
One of Macau’s most picturesque temples is thought to be Macau’s oldest building. Properly Ma Kok Temple but known to locals as simply A-Ma, the structure originated during the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) and was influenced by Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism, as well as local religions. Vivid red calligraphy on large boulders tells the story of the goddess A-Ma (also known as Tin Hau), the patron of fishermen. A small gate opens onto prayer halls, pavilions, and caves carved directly into the hillside. | Rua de São Tiago da Barra, Largo da Barra, Downtown | Daily 7–6.
Templo de Na Tcha.
This small Chinese temple was built in 1888, during the Macauan plague, in the hope that it would appeal to a mythical Chinese character who granted wishes and could save lives. The Troço das Antigas Muralhas de Defesa (Section of the Old City Walls), all that remains of Macau’s original defensive barrier, borders the left side of the temple. These crumbling yellow walls were built in 1569 and illustrate the durability of chunambo, a local material made from compacted layers of clay, soil, sand, straw, crushed rocks, and oyster shells. | Top end of Rua de São Paulo, Downtown.
Worth Noting
Camões Garden.
Macau’s most popular park is frequented from dawn to dusk by tai chi enthusiasts, lovers, students, and men huddled over Chinese chessboards with their caged songbirds nearby. The gardens, which were developed in the 18th century, are named after Luís de Camões, Portugal’s greatest poet, who was banished to Macau for several years during the 16th century. A rocky niche shelters a bronze bust of the poet in the park’s most famous and picturesque spot, Camões Grotto. At the grotto’s entrance a bronze sculpture honors the friendship between Portugal and China. A wall of stone slabs is inscribed with poems by various contemporary writers, praising Camões and Macau. In Casa Garden, a smaller park alongside Camões Garden, the grounds of a merchant’s estate are lovingly landscaped with a variety of flora and bordered with a brick pathway. A central pond is stocked with lily pads and lotus flowers. | 13 Praça Luis de Camões, Downtown | Daily 6 am–10 pm.
Fortaleza do Monte (Mount Fortress).
On the hill overlooking the ruins of São Paulo and affording great peninsular views, this renovated fort was built by the Jesuits in the early 17th century. In 1622 it was the site of Macau’s most legendary battle, when a priest’s lucky cannon shot hit an invading Dutch ship’s powder supply, saving the day. The interior buildings were destroyed by fire in 1835, but the outer walls remain, along with several large cannons and artillery pieces. Exhibits at the adjoiningMacau Museum (daily 10–6, MOP$15) take you through the territory’s history, from its origins to modern development. | Monte Hill, Downtown | 853/2835–7911 | www.macaumuseum.gov.mo | Free | Daily 6 am–7 pm.
Grand Prix Museum.
Inaugurated in 1993 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Macau Grand Prix, this museum tells the stories of the best drivers from every year, but the highlights are the actual race cars on display. More than 20 Formula vehicles are exhibited in the hall, of which the centerpiece is the red-and-white Formula Three car driven by the late champion Aryton Senna. | 431 Rua Luis Gonzaga Gomes, Downtown | 853/8798–4108 | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–9.
Igreja de São Lourenço (Church of St. Lawrence).
One of Macau’s three oldest churches, the Church of St. Lawrence was founded by Jesuits in 1560 and has been lovingly rebuilt several times. Its present appearance dates to 1846. It overlooks the South China Sea amid pleasant, palm-shaded gardens. Families of Portuguese sailors used to gather on the front steps to pray for the sailors’ safe return; hence its Chinese name, Feng Shun Tang (Hall of the Soothing Winds). Focal points of its breathtaking interior are the elegant wood carvings, a baroque altar, and crystal chandeliers. | Rua de São Lourenço, Downtown | 8399–6699 | Mon.–Fri. 10–4, Sat. 10–1.
Largo de Santo Agostinho.
Built in the pattern of traditional Portuguese squares, St. Augustine Square is paved with black-and-white tiles laid out in mosaic wave patterns and lined with leafy overhanging trees and lots of wooden benches. It’s easy to feel as if you’re in a European village, far from South China. One of the square’s main structures is the Teatro Dom Pedro V, a European-style hall with an inviting green-and-white facade built in 1859. It’s an important cultural landmark for Macanese and was regularly used until World War II, when it fell into disrepair. The 300-seat venue once again hosts concerts and recitals—especially during the annual Macau International Music Festival—as well as important public events, the only times you can go inside. It does, however, have a garden that’s open daily, and admission is free. Igreja de Santo Agostinho (Church of St. Augustine), to one side of the square, dates from 1591, and has a grand, weathered exterior and a drafty interior with a high wood-beam ceiling (open daily 10–6). There’s a magnificent stone altar with a statue of Christ on his knees, bearing the cross, with small crucifixes in silhouette on the hill behind him. The statue, called Our Lord of Passos, is carried in a procession through the streets of downtown on the first day of Lent. | Off R. Central, Downtown.
Lin Fung Miu.
Built in 1592, the Temple of the Lotus honors several Buddhist and Taoist deities, including Tin Hau (goddess of the sea), Kun Iam (goddess of mercy), and Kwan Tai (god of war and wealth). The front of the temple is embellished with magnificent clay bas-reliefs of renowned figures from Chinese history and mythology. Inside are several halls, shrines, and courtyards. The temple is best known as a lodging place for Mandarins traveling from Guangzhou. Its most famous guest was Commissioner Lin Zexu, whose confiscation and destruction of British opium in 1839 was largely responsible for the First Opium War. | Av. do Almirante Lacerda, Downtown | Daily dawn–dusk.
Lou Lim Ieoc Gardens.
These beautiful gardens were built in the 19th century by a Chinese merchant named Lou Kau. Rock formations, water, vegetation, pavilions, and sunlight were all carefully considered, and the balanced landscapes are the hallmark of Suzhou garden style. The government took possession and restored the grounds in the mid 1970s, so that today you can enjoy tranquil walks among delicate flowering bushes framed with bamboo groves and artificial hills. A large auditorium frequently hosts concerts and other events, most notably recitals during the annual Macau International Music Festival. Adjacent to the gardens, a European-style edifice contains the Macau Tea Culture House, a small museum with exhibits on the tea culture of Macau and China (Tues.–Sun. 9–7, free). | Estrada de Adolfo Loureiro, at Av. do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida, Downtown | 853/2835–6622 | Free | Daily 6 am–9 pm.
Macao Museum of Art.
The large, boxy museum is as well known for its curving, rectangular framed roof as it is for its calligraphy, painting, copperware, and international film collections. It’s Macau’s only art museum, and has five floors of eastern and western works, as well as important examples of ancient indigenous pottery found at Hác-Sá Beach on nearby Coloane Island. | Macao Cultural Centre, Av. Xian Xing Hai, Outer Harbour | 853/8791–9814 | www.mam.gov.mo | MOP$5 (free Sun.) | Tues.–Sun. 10–7.
Macau Fisherman’s Wharf.
This sprawling complex of rides, games, and other minor attractions has an appealing Old World aura. The centerpiece is the Roman Amphitheatre, which hosts outdoor performances, but the main draws are the lively themed restaurants on the west side, such as AfriKana, serving up Macau’s best African brews and barbecues. Come for the food, and stay after dark, as Fisherman’s Wharf is most active at night. | Av. da Amizade, at Av. Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Downtown | 853/8299–3300 | www.fishermanswharf.com.mo | Admission free, games MOP$1–MOP$32 | Open 24 hours.
A Bit of History
In 1557 the Portuguese took over Macau as the first European colony in East Asia. Macau was known as “A Ma Gao” in honor of the patron goddess of sailors, A-Ma. The Portuguese adapted this Chinese name to “Macau,” and for more than a century the port thrived as the main intermediary in the trade between Asia and the rest of the world. Ships from Italy, Portugal, and Spain came here to buy and sell Chinese silks and tea, Japanese crafts, Indian spices, African ivory, and Brazilian gold.
In addition to international trade, Macau became an outpost for western religions. St Francis Xavier successfully converted large numbers of Japanese and Chinese to Christianity and used Macau as a base of operations. In the 1500s and 1600s many churches were built, including an ambitious Christian college. Today in Macau this religious legacy can be seen in the array of well-preserved churches.
Macau’s age of prosperity ended in the 1800s, when the Dutch and British gained control of most trading routes to East Asia. After the British victory over China in the 1814 Opium War, the huge, deep-water port of Hong Kong was established, and Macau was relegated to a quiet, sleepy port town. Macau did, however, remain important to Chinese refugees of World War I and World War II and the Cultural Revolution. With the widespread introduction of legalized gambling in the 1960s, Macau became a freewheeling place, where gambling, espionage, and crime reigned in the long shadow of modern, wealthy Hong Kong.
Today textile, furniture, electronics, and other exports join a world-class tourism industry in making Macau prosperous. Just before the 1999 handover to the Chinese government, the Portuguese administration launched a staggering number of public works. A huge international airport was built on a reclaimed island, and two new bridges were built to connect Macau’s two islands. Recent years also saw the construction of two artificial lakes in the Outer Harbour along the Praia Grande and another in Cotai. These projects and the continuing developments have transformed Macau into a location of choice for casinos and luxury resorts.
Maritime Museum.
This handsome white building across from the A-Ma temple looks like a ship, with jutting white slats and porthole windows, and is a great place to spend an interesting hour brushing up on seafaring history. A row of fountains out front soothes you almost as much as the calm, cool interior. Multimedia exhibits cover fishermen, merchants, and explorers from Portugal, South China, and Japan. Look for compasses, telescopes, and sections of ships. There’s even a small aquarium gallery with local sealife. Try your hand at astronomic navigation—which sailors have used for thousands of years—by looking up at the top floor’s nifty celestial dome ceiling. | 1 Largo do Pagode da Barra, Inner Harbour | 853/2859–5481 | www.museumaritimo.gov.mo | MOP$10 ($5 Sun.) | Wed.–Mon. 10–5:30.
Templo de Sam Kai Vui Kun.
Built in 1750, this temple is dedicated to Kuan Tai, the bearded, fierce-looking god of war and wealth in Chinese mythology. Statues of him and his two sons sit on an altar. A steady stream of people comes to pray and ask for support before they go wage battle in the casinos. May and June see festivals honoring Kuan Tai throughout Macau. | Rua Sui do Mercado de São Domingos, Downtown | Daily 8–6.
Wine Museum.
In the same building as the Grand Prix Museum, this museum has more than 1,100 wines on display; some are almost 200 years old. You’ll learn about production techniques and the importance of vinho (wine) in Portuguese culture. Several varieties are on hand for impromptu tastings. | 431 Rua Luis Gonzaga Gomes, Downtown | 853/8798–4188 | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–9.
Ready, Set, Go!
Grand Prix racing, which began in Macau in 1954, is the region’s most glamorous annual sporting event. During the third or fourth weekend of November the city is pierced with the sound of supercharged engines testing the 6.2-km (3.8-mile) Guia Circuit, which follows city roads along the Outer Harbour to Guia Hill and around the reservoir. The route is as challenging as that of Monaco, with rapid gear changes demanded at the right-angle Statue Corner, the Doña Maria bend, and the Melco hairpin. Cars achieve speeds of 275 kph (171 mph) on the straightaways, with the lap record approaching two minutes, 10 seconds. The premier event is the Formula 3 Macau Grand Prix, but there are also races for motorcycles and production cars. If you plan to visit Macau during this time, beware of the logistical disruption that results from the race, including rerouting of main roads and lack of hotel vacancies.
Taipa Island
The island directly south of peninsular Macau was once two small islands that were, over time, joined by deposits from the Pearl River Delta. Taipa is connected to peninsular Macau by three long bridges. Macau’s two universities, horse-racing track, scenic hiking trails, and international airport are all here.
Like downtown Macau, Taipa has been greatly developed in the past few years, yet it retains a visual balance between old Macau charm and modern sleekness. Try to visit on a weekend, so you can shop for clothing and crafts in the traditional flea market that’s held every Sunday from morning to evening in Taipa Village.
Pou Tai Un Buddhist Monastery.
The region’s largest temple is part of a functioning monastery with several dozen monks. The classically designed structure has an ornate main prayer hall and central pavilions with sculptures, fish ponds, and banyan trees. Monks tend the vegetable plots that supply the popular on-site vegetarian restaurant. | Estrada Lou Lim Leok, Taipa | 853/2881–1007 | Free | Daily 9–5.
Taipai Houses-Museum.
These five sea-green houses are interesting examples of Porto-Chinese architecture and were originally residences of wealthy local merchants. They now house changing art exhibitions. Paths lead into the beautiful adjoining Carmel Garden, where palm trees provide welcome shade. Within the garden stands the brilliant white-and-yellow Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Church of Our Lady of Carmel), built in 1885 and featuring a handsome single-belfry tower. | Av. da Praia, Carmo Zone, Taipa | 853/2882–7103 | Museum MOP$5, free Sun.; garden free | Museum Tues.–Sun. 10–6; garden daily, 24 hours.
Fodor’s Choice | Taipa Village.
The narrow, winding streets are packed with restaurants, bakeries, shops, temples, and other buildings with traditional South Chinese and Portuguese design elements. The aptly named Rua do Cunha (Food Street) has many great Chinese, Macanese, Portuguese, and Thai restaurants. Several shops sell homemade Macanese snacks, including steamed milk pudding, almond cakes, beef jerky, and coconut candy. | Macau, Macau–China.
Outdoor Activities
Whether you prefer a leisurely walk though a park or conquering steep hills on foot or by bike, Taipa Island has the region’s best trails. The rewards for heading up Taipa Grande and Taipa Pequena, the island’s two largest hills, are majestic views. The Taipa Grande trail starts at Estrada Colonel Nicolau de Mesquita, near the United Chinese Cemetery. The Taipa Pequena trail starts at Estrada Lou Lim Ieoc (Lou Lim Ieoc Gardens) behind the Regency Hotel. Be sure to wear rugged hiking shoes, use bug repellent, and, if possible, bring a mobile phone for emergency calls. The most popular place to rent bicycles is the shop at the bus stop outside the Civic and Municipal Affairs Bureau in Taipa Village on Largo Camões, where you can also find trail maps.
Coloane Island
Centuries ago, Coloane was a wild place, where pirates hid in rocky caves and coves, awaiting their chance to strike at cargo ships on the Pearl River. Early in the 20th century the local government sponsored a huge planting program to transform Coloane from a barren place to a green one. The results were spectacular—and enduring. Today this island is idyllic, with green hills and clean sandy beaches. The most popular is Hác-Sá; translated from the Chinese, hác-sá means “black sand,” although the sands of the area’s biggest beach are actually a deep gray.
Once connected to Taipa Island by a thin isthmus, Coloane is now almost completely fused with Taipa via the huge Cotai reclaimed land project, where the “Strip” was completed in 2010. Regardless of the recent development boom, Coloane remains the destination of choice for anyone seeking natural beauty and tranquility.
Top Attractions
Fodor’s Choice | A-Ma Cultural Village.
A huge complex built in a traditional Qing Dynasty style pays homage to Macau’s namesake, the goddess of the sea. The vibrancy and color of the details in the bell and drum towers, the tiled roofs, and the carved marble altars are truly awe-inspiring. It’s as if you’ve been transported back to the height of the Qing Empire and can now see temples in their true state of greatness. Other remarkable details include the striking rows of stairs leading to Tian Hou Palace at the entrance. Each row features painstakingly detailed marble and stone carvings of auspicious Chinese symbols: a roaring tiger, double lions, five cranes, the double phoenix, and a splendid imperial dragon. The grounds here also have a recreational fishing zone and an arboretum with more than 100 species of local and exotic flora.
Behind A-Ma Cultural Village is the 560-foot-tall Coloane Hill, crowned by a gleaming white-marble statue of A-Ma (commemorating the year of Macau’s handover), soaring 65 feet and visible from miles away. You can make the short hike up to the top or take one of the shuttle buses that leave from the foot of the hill every 30 minutes. | Off Estrada de Seac Pai Van, Coloane Island South | Daily 8–6.
Fodor’s Choice | Coloane Village.
Quiet, relaxed Coloane Village is home to traditional Mediterranean-style houses painted in pastels, as well as the baroque-style Chapel of St. Francis Xavier and the Taoist Tam Kung Temple. The narrow alleys reveal surprises at every turn; you may well encounter fishermen repairing their junks or a baptism at the chapel. At the village’s heart is a small square adorned with a fountain with a bronze Cupid. The surrounding Macanese and Chinese open-air restaurants are among the region’s best; some are the unheralded favorites of chefs visiting from Hong Kong and elsewhere in Asia. | Macau, Macau–China.
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