If you make sweets rarely your ordinary kitchen equipment will suffice. You will need strong saucepans; a long handled wooden spoon, so your hands are kept well away from the hot mixture when stirring; tins on which to put the finished sweets; pastry brushes for brushing down the sides of the saucepan and coating tins with oil or butter; basins of cold water for use in brushing down the inside of the saucepan and for testing the sweetmeats; sharp knives for cutting sweets.
If you plan to make a lot of sweets, you should invest in a sugar thermometer; rubber moulds; small metal moulds; dipping forks and spoons; a small sweet hammer for breaking hard toffee into smaller pieces; a small funnel to enable you to fill moulds with the liquid sweet mixture; a plastic scraper which makes it easy to remove the sugar mixture from the slab or board.
These are the temperatures referred to in this book. Always test early during the sweetmaking process, for if the temperature in that particular recipe is exceeded the sweets could be spoiled.
Gently move the thermometer around in the mixture, so you have a true overall reading – the mixture always tends to be hotter in the centre of the pan. Take the pan off the heat while checking the temperature with a thermometer or testing a little of the mixture by dropping it into a basin of cold water.
Soft ball stage: 114.4 to 115.5°C/238 to 240°F. When a little of the mixture is dropped into cold water it can be moulded into a soft ball with the fingers. In most recipes 115°C is given but in others 115.5°C gives a better result.
Firm ball stage: 118.3 to 121.1°C/245 to 250°F. When a little of the mixture is dropped into cold water it forms a pliable, but firm, ball.
Light crack stage: 126.6 to 132.2°C/260 to 270°F. When a little of the mixture is dropped into cold water it is broken easily and makes a slight cracking sound.
Crack stage: 138 to 143.3°C/280 to 290°F. When a little of the mixture is dropped into cold water it makes a distinct crack when broken.
Very hard crack or brittle stage: 154°C/310°F. When the mixture is dropped into cold water it is extremely brittle and snaps at once.
On page 341 are the ideal melting points for various kinds of chocolate. By using these recommended temperatures you make sure the chocolate is not over-heated and that it retains both texture and shine. Move the thermometer around in the melted chocolate to ascertain the overall heat.
Cooking stage: 115 to 118°/240 to 245° Makes a generous 450 g/1 lb
A fondant, whether cooked or uncooked, is a versatile sweetmeat. It can be tinted and flavoured in many ways and used as a filling or addition to other ingredients.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
450 g/1 lb granulated sugar
1 lb
225 ml/7½ fl oz water
scant cup
40 g/1½ oz glucose
3 tablespoons
Put the sugar and water into a strong saucepan, stir over a moderate heat until the sugar has dissolved then add the glucose. Boil rapidly, with little, if any stirring, until the mixture reaches the ‘soft ball’ stage for soft fondant or continue boiling until it reaches a slightly higher temperature, i.e. 118°C/245°F for a firmer fondant. Do not beat the fondant mixture in the saucepan, for this makes it slightly granular. Allow to cool and stiffen slightly before handling.
Dampen a slab or working surface with a little warm water. Turn the fondant out of the saucepan and allow to stand for a short time to stiffen slightly. Work the fondant up and down with a spatula or flat-bladed knife until it becomes very white and firm in texture. Portions of the fondant can than be tinted and flavoured as desired for the sweets. Fondant can be stored; wrap in waxed paper then foil.
Variations:
Omit the glucose in the recipe above and use 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) golden syrup instead.
To reheat fondant: remove the required amount of fondant from the wrapping, place in the top of a double saucepan, or basin over hot water. Heat until soft.
There are two simple ways to make this.
1 Put 450 g/1 lb sifted icing sugar into a bowl. Add 2 unwhisked egg whites, ½ tablespoon lemon juice and any flavouring or colouring required. Beat to a stiff smooth mixture. If using an electric mixer choose a low speed. For a slightly softer fondant, blend in 2 teaspoons liquid glucose or glycerine.
2 Put 450 g/1 lb sifted icing sugar into a bowl, add 5 tablespoons (7 tablespoons) canned full-cream sweetened condensed milk and blend together. Add any flavouring or colouring required. This fondant is softer and slightly stickier than others.
The quantities given in the recipes below refer to either the cooked or uncooked fondant, for each are made with 450 g/1 lb sugar.
Flavouring essences and colourings should be added slowly and carefully, so the fondant is not over-flavoured or made too bright in colour. The best way to do this is to dip a metal skewer into the bottle of essence or colouring and allow just a few drops to fall into the sweetmeat. Blend thoroughly and taste the mixture, if flavouring it, then continue to add more colour in the same way. Bottled colourings and flavourings should be added when the fondant is ready to handle. It is very easy to work them into the sweetmeat mixture.
There are two ways to flavour fondant with chocolate.
1 Melt 100 to 175 g/4 to 6 oz (4 to 6 squares) plain chocolate, then allow to cool until it becomes the consistency of a thick cream. Add to the cooked fondant when it has reached the ‘soft ball’ stage. Add to either of the uncooked fondants when the sugar has been blended with the other ingredients in the recipe.
2 Sift 25 g/1 oz (¼ cup) cocoa powder or 50 g/2 oz (½ cup) chocolate powder with the icing sugar in the uncooked fondant recipes or add to the cooked fondant just before it reaches the ‘soft ball’ stage.
Either add 2 to 3 teaspoons instant coffee powder to the sugar in any of the recipes or use 225 ml/7½ fl oz (scant cup) strong coffee instead of water in the recipe for cooked fondant.
Add 2 to 3 teaspoons very finely grated lemon or orange zest to the sugar in any of the fondant recipes and enhance the flavour with a few drops of lemon or orange essence. The colour of the fondant can be emphasized with a few drops of yellow or orange colouring if desired.
In the cooked fondant, a little of the 225 ml/7½ fl oz (scant cup) water can be replaced by lemon or orange juice.
Follow the variation for cooked fondant on page 321. Substitute maple syrup for the golden syrup. This gives an excellent taste to the sweetmeat.
These sweets do not keep, for the fresh fruit deteriorates quickly, even when coated with fondant. It is essential to use the cooked fondant recipe (see page 321).
Prepare dessert fruits, such as stoned firm cherries, hulled strawberries, skinned and sliced or diced fresh peaches and pineapple.
Make the fondant as the recipe. Boil only to 115°C/240°F. Lower the fruits into the hot mixture and turn around with a long spoon, then lift out on to a tin moistened with a little warm water. Allow the fondant to set.
These make a good accompaniment to coffee.
These are better made with the cooked fondant but the uncooked fondant on the same page could be substituted.
Make the fondant with 450 g/lb sugar, etc. (see page 321). When this has reached the correct temperature in the saucepan, stir in just 1 tablespoon (1¼ tablespoons) double cream. This makes sure the fondant retains a softer texture. The cream can be blended with the uncooked fondant.
Hazelnut creams are usually pale pink in colour, so add a few drops of culinary colouring.
To mould hazelnut creams: place hazelnuts into fairly deep rubber sweetmeat moulds. Remove the fondant from the pan and work until firmer in texture, as described in the recipe, then spoon over the hazelnuts in the moulds and allow to set or press small portions of uncooked fondant over the nuts in the moulds. When the fondant is firm remove from the moulds and store in airtight tins.
To produce the sweets without moulds: tint and work the fondant, then take very small pieces and form these into neat conical shapes. Press a hazelnut into the top of each shape. Place on a tin and allow to set.
Make either the cooked or uncooked fondant (see page 321). Add a few drops of oil of peppermint or peppermint essence to the sweetmeat together with 1 tablespoon (1¼ tablespoons) double cream. Work the fondant, as described in the recipe.
Dust a working surface or slab and a rolling pin with sifted icing sugar. Place the fondant on the sugar-coated surface and roll out until 6 mm/¼ thick, cut into small rounds. Leave in the air to harden, then pack in airtight containers.
Cooking stage: 113 to 114°C/236 to 238°F Makes nearly 800 g/1¾ lb
Good fudge is one of the most traditional of all British sweetmeats. This particular recipe is very soft and creamy.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
75 g/3 oz butter
3/8 cup
3 tablespoons water
4½ tablespoons
450 g/1 lb granulated sugar
1 lb
300 ml/½ pint double cream
1¼ cups
150 ml/¼ pint milk
⅔ cup
1 teaspoon vanilla essence, or to taste
1 teaspoon
Use a little of the butter to grease a 20 cm/8 inch square tin. Put the remainder of the butter and the water into a strong saucepan, heat until the butter has melted, then add the rest of the ingredients. Stir over a very low heat until the sugar has melted then boil steadily, stirring most of the time, until the mixture reaches ‘very soft ball’ stage if you like a really soft fudge or the ‘soft ball’ stage for a slightly firmer sweetmeat.
Beat the mixture until it just begins to thicken and turns opaque or cloudy. Pour into the tin and leave until almost set. Mark into squares with a sharp knife. When quite firm pack in an airtight container.
Cooking stage: 114°C/238°F Makes 800 g/1¾ lb
This recipe gives a very good creamy fudge, which is relatively economical.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
50 g/2 oz butter
¼ cup
450 g/1 lb granulated sugar
1 lb
1 × 397 g/14 oz can full-cream sweetened condensed milk
1¾ cups
150 ml/¼ pint water
⅔ cup
1 teaspoon vanilla essence, or to taste
1 teaspoon
Use a little of the butter to grease a 20 cm/8 inch square tin. Put the rest of the butter and all the other ingredients into a strong saucepan and continue as the recipe above. This particular fudge is better cooked to the ‘soft ball’ stage.
Cooking stage: 113 to 114°C/236 to 238°F as in the fudge recipes on page 324.
The following recipes are based upon either the Rich Vanilla Fudge or the Family Fudge above. Additional ingredients should be added at just the right stage.
2 to 3 tablespoons rum or brandy or 1½ to 2 tablespoons of a liqueur, such as crème de menthe or curaçao, should be added to the mixture when the sugar has dissolved. Omit this amount of water in either of the recipes.
Cut 100 g/4 oz (½ cup) glacé cherries into neat pieces, add to the fudge just before the mixture reaches the ‘very soft ball’ stage.
Chop 100 g/4 oz (4 squares) plain chocolate into small pieces. Stir into the mixture when the sugar has dissolved. 25 g/1 oz (¼ cup) cocoa powder or 50 g/2 oz (½ cup) chocolate powder could be used instead.
Omit the 150 ml/¼ pint (⅔ cup) milk in the Rich Vanilla Fudge or the 150 ml/¼ pint (⅔ cup) water in the Family Fudge. Substitute 150 ml/¼ pint (⅔ cup) really strong coffee instead. You could use 3 teaspoons, or to taste, of instant coffee powder and dissolve this in the milk or water in the recipe.
This can be dried fruit, such as sultanas or raisins, or diced crystallized fruit such as pineapple or apricots. Allow approximately 100 g/4 oz (¼ lb). Stir into the mixture just before it reaches the ‘very soft ball’ stage.
Coarsely chop approximately 100 g/4 oz (1 cup) nuts, such as blanched almonds, pecans, peanuts, walnuts. Add to the mixture just before it reaches the ‘very soft ball’ stage.
Cooking stage: 115°C/240°F Makes nearly 800 g/1¾ lb
The recipes for candy and fudge are very similar, in fact you can take any fudge recipe and turn it into candy by boiling the mixture to a slightly higher temperature. While the ideal stage for fudge is 113 to 114°C/236 to 238°F the mixture for candy should be boiled until it reaches 115.5°C/a good 240°F. The difference in these sweetmeats is the texture. Perfect fudge should be soft and creamy; good candy slightly crisp.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
good 50 g/2 oz butter
good ¼ cup
450 g/1 lb granulated sugar
1 lb
397 g/14 oz can full-cream sweetened condensed milk
1¾ cups
397 g/14 oz can of water, see method
1¾ cups
1 teaspoon vanilla essence, or to taste
1 teaspoon
Use a little of the butter to grease a 20 cm/8 inch square tin.
Put the sugar and the condensed milk into a strong saucepan. Fill the empty can with water, stir well to absorb any milk left in the can, then add the water to the saucepan with the rest of the butter and vanilla essence. Stir until the sugar has dissolved, then boil steadily, stirring quite frequently, until the mixture reaches the ‘soft ball’ stage. For a soft candy remove the pan from the heat immediately, but for a crisper candy cook very slowly over the heat for another 1 to 2 minutes. This slow cooking will not allow the temperature to rise.
Pour the unbeaten mixture into the tin. Leave until quite cold then mark into squares. There is no need to wrap candy.
Because candy is slightly more robust than fudge, it enables a number of different ingredients to be added. All the suggestions on page 326 for flavoured fudge can be used for the flavourings, such as chocolate, when the sugar has dissolved or as directed in the specific recipe.
Use the recipe above but substitute 350 g/12 oz (2 cups) Demerara sugar and 100 g/4 oz (6 tablespoons) golden syrup for the granulated sugar.
Follow the recipe for Vanilla Candy (see above) but omit the vanilla essence. Use ½ to 1 teaspoon very finely grated lemon zest and 100 g/4 oz (¼ lb) dried apricots, preferably the tenderized type, known as ‘ready to eat’. Chop the apricots into very small pieces and add to the mixture with the lemon zest when the sugar has dissolved.
Follow the recipe for Vanilla Candy (see page 327). The vanilla essence can be retained or omitted and ½ to 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest used instead. Add the zest and 175 g/6 oz (1 cup) either finely grated fresh coconut or desiccated coconut when the sugar has dissolved.
Although currants are rarely used in sweetmeats they are particularly good in a crisp candy. Follow the recipe for Vanilla Candy (see page 327). Add approximately 100 g/4 oz (¼ lb) currants to the mixture just before it reaches the ‘soft ball’ stage. Raisins, sultanas, chopped tenderized prunes could be used instead.
Dried figs give a particularly interesting flavour for candy. Follow the recipe for Vanilla Candy (see page 327), retaining the vanilla essence. Chop 100 g/4 oz (¼ lb) dried figs very finely and add to the mixture when the sugar has dissolved.
Follow the recipe for Vanilla Candy (see page 327) but omit the vanilla essence. Use a few drops of peppermint essence instead or 1 to 2 tablespoons crème de menthe.
A peppermint flavour blends very well with dried fruit, especially with raisins, see above.
Pecans give a particularly good flavour to candy but all other nuts can be used instead.
Follow the recipe for Vanilla Candy (see page 327). You can retain the vanilla essence if using pecans, walnuts or hazelnuts, but use almond essence for almonds and peanuts. Chop 100 to 175 g/4 to 6 oz (1 to 1½ cups) pecans. Add to the candy mixture just before it reaches 115°C/240°F, i.e. the ‘soft ball’ stage.
Cooking stage: 115°C/240°F Makes nearly 675 g/1½ lb
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
For the cooked fondant:
450 g/1 lb sugar, etc.
(see page 321) 1 lb
2 tablespoons double cream
2½ tablespoons
175 g/6 oz desiccated coconut
2 cups
few drops pink colouring
few drops
Lightly oil an 18 to 20 cm/7 to 8 inch square tin.
Make the fondant (see page 321). When it reaches the ‘soft ball’ stage add the cream and coconut. Spoon half the coconut sweetmeat into the tin. Colour the remainder pale pink and spoon on top of the white layer. Leave until set then cut into squares or bars. Remove from the tin and wrap when firm.
Cooking stage: 115°C/240°F Makes about 8
Sugar mice have always been one of the sweetmeats placed in children’s stockings for Christmas Day. The fondant is usually left white for these sweetmeats.
In addition to the ingredients for the fondant you need a little very fine string, for the tails, and a small amount of glacé icing (see page 292) for decorating the head. Leave the moulded sweetmeats in the air for 24 hours to dry.
Use the first recipe for the cooked fondant (see page 321) and boil the ingredients to the ‘soft ball’ stage only. This makes quite sure the fondant is easy to mould.
There are two methods of making the mice:
1 Use small animal moulds (the kind often sold for making jellies). Press the warm fondant into the ungreased moulds, add a small piece of string for the tail. When firm remove from the moulds and pipe on the eyes, nose and mouth with glacé icing.
2 If you do not have any moulds, divide the fondant into even amounts. Wrap the ones you are not handling in cling film so they do not dry out. To shape the first mouse, pull off a small amount of fondant and shape the head. Form an oval shape for the body, press the head against the body while the two portions of fondant are still soft enough to adhere together. Press the string into the end of the body for the tail and decorate the head as before.
Cooking stage: 143°C/290°F Makes 1 kg/2¼ lb
Although treacle toffee is popular throughout Britain, it has always been recognized as the favourite sweetmeat of the Welsh.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
175 g/6 oz almonds, optional
generous 1 cup
75 g/3 oz butter
3/8 cup
450 g/1 lb black treacle
1⅓ cups
450 g/1 lb Demerara sugar
1 lb
Blanch the almonds, if using, dry well and chop. Use a little of the butter to grease a 23 to 25 cm/9 to 10 inch square tin. Put the remainder of the butter into a strong saucepan, heat gently, then add the treacle and sugar. Stir until the sugar has dissolved, then boil steadily until the mixture reaches the ‘hard crack’ stage. Stir only occasionally.
Add the nuts at this stage and stir well to blend with the toffee. Pour into the prepared tin. Leave until almost cold, then mark into small squares with a heated knife. When cold, remove from the tin and wrap in waxed paper.
Cooking stage: 143°C/290°C Makes 500 g/1¼ lb
This has a pleasing, creamy taste.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
100 g/4 oz butter
½ cup
450 g/1 lb granulated sugar
1 lb
1 teaspoon lemon juice or white malt vinegar
1 teaspoon
150 ml/¼ pint water
⅔ cup
Use a little of the butter to grease a 20 cm/8 inch square tin. Put the rest of the butter and other ingredients into a strong saucepan, stir over a heat until the sugar has dissolved. Boil steadily until the mixture reaches the ‘hard crack’ stage, stirring only occasionally.
Pour into the tin and leave until lightly set then mark into squares with a heated knife. When quite cold, remove from the tin and wrap in waxed paper.
Variation:
Use half golden syrup and half Demerara sugar instead of all granulated sugar, and omit the water and the lemon juice or vinegar.
The following toffees are based upon Everton Toffee (see page 330) or Golden Toffee (see page 336). The amount of extra ingredients is suitable for either recipe. The stage to which the toffee should be boiled is 143°C/290°F.
Blanch up to 175 g/6 oz (generous 1 cup) whole almonds, dry well and chop them rather coarsely. The toffee can also be flavoured with just a few drops of almond essence, but this is not essential. Add the essence with the water.
Add a generous half of the nuts to the toffee just before it reaches the ‘hard crack’ stage. Mix well. Pour the toffee into the tin, then scatter the rest of the nuts on top of the soft mixture. Press gently into the toffee with a metal spoon, so they are half-covered and will not fall off when the toffee is cut.
Chop about 100 g/4 oz (1 cup) Brazil nuts fairly coarsely. Cut another 100 g/4 oz (1 cup) in halves lengthways. Add the chopped nuts to the toffee just before it reaches the ‘hard crack’ stage. Mix well. Pour the toffee into the tin and arrange the halved Brazils on top, at regular intervals. Press these gently into the soft toffee. When cold mark in squares, each square should have a Brazil on top.
Variation:
Use hazelnuts, pecan nuts or walnuts instead of Brazils.
This combination of flavours is very pleasing.
Add 100 g/4 oz (4 squares) plain chocolate and 75 g/3 oz (1 cup) desiccated coconut to the toffee mixture just before it reaches the ‘hard crack’ stage. Stir very well to blend.
Follow the recipe for Golden Toffee (see page 336) but substitute maple syrup for the golden syrup. Everton Toffee (see page 330) is less suitable for this variation.
Soak 150 g/5 oz (scant 1 cup) raisins in 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) rum before making either of the toffees, but in each case use 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) less water. Add the rumflavoured raisins to the mixture just before it reaches the ‘hard crack’ stage. Mix well.
Cooking stage: 131°C/268°F Makes nearly 550 g/1¼ lb
Taffy was the original name for toffee, but the word is now used to describe a Welshman. Taffy, the ingredients for which are boiled to a considerably lower temperature than most toffees, was frequently a pulled sweet, as described below.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
225 g/8 oz Demerara sugar
1⅓ cups
175 g/6 oz golden syrup
½ cup
100 g/4 oz butter
½ cup
2 tablespoons water
3 tablespoons
2 teaspoons glucose
2 teaspoons
Grease a slab or metal tin with a few drops of oil. Put all the ingredients into a strong saucepan and stir until the sugar has dissolved, then boil steadily until the mixture reaches the ‘light crack’ stage. Pour the mixture on to the slab or tin. When cool enough to handle pull gently until there are long strips of an even thickness. If the mixture is inclined to stick to your fingers, dampen them. Brush kitchen scissors with a few drops of oil, and cut the strips into even lengths. Wrap in waxed paper.
For a mild treacle taste use the recipe above but with half golden syrup and half black treacle.
Variation:
For a less buttery taste but stronger flavour of treacle, reduce the amount of butter from 100 g/4 oz (½ cup) to 25 g/1 oz (2 tablespoons). Omit the glucose and add 1 teaspoon vinegar instead. Put the sugar, black treacle, butter, water and vinegar into a strong saucepan. Stir until the sugar has dissolved then boil steadily until the mixture reaches the ‘light crack’ stage. Stir ¼ level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda into the ingredients. Mix well then proceed as the recipe above.
Follow the basic recipe above, but add a few drops of oil of peppermint or peppermint essence. Proceed as the recipe.
Cooking stage: 154°C/310°F Makes 450 g/1 lb
This toffee mixture is boiled to the very highest temperature, thus making it very crisp. Take care to remove the pan from the heat the moment it reaches the temperature required, so the mixture does not burn.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
225 g/8 oz granulated sugar
1 cup
225 g/8 oz golden syrup
scant 1½ cups
Put the ingredients into a strong saucepan. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved then allow to boil rapidly until the ‘very hard crack’ stage is reached. Use for making Toffee Apples (see page 334), or as below.
Prepare about 225 g/8 oz (approximately 2 cups) nuts. These can be all the same type or a mixture of almonds, Brazils, cashew nuts, hazelnuts, peanuts, pecan nuts and walnuts. Chop the nuts. Grease a 20 to 23 cm/8 to 9 inch square tin with a little butter. Make the Brittle Toffee as the recipe above.
Add the nuts just before the mixture reaches the ‘very hard crack’ stage. Spoon into the tin. Leave until it is cold. Break into pieces and wrap in waxed paper.
Cooking stage: 143°C/290°F Makes a generous 450 g/1 lb
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
450 g/1 lb Demerara sugar
1 lb
150 ml/¼ pint water
⅔ cup
50 g/2 oz butter
¼ cup
½ to ¾ teaspoon peppermint essence or a few drops oil of peppermint
½ to ¾ teaspoon
pinch cream of tartar
pinch
Grease a slab or baking tin with a few drops of oil. Put all the ingredients into a strong saucepan. Stir over a moderate heat until the sugar has dissolved, then boil steadily until the mixture reaches the ‘hard crack’ stage. Allow the mixture to cool for a short time in the saucepan until it becomes slightly sticky.
Pour on to the slab or into the tin. Leave until cool enough to handle then pull into long strips. When cold cut these into small pieces. Store in an airtight tin.
Cooking stage: 143°C/290°F Coats 8 to 10 apples
Toffee apples have been one of the treats enjoyed by children for generations. They are often made for Guy Fawkes Night, on 5th November. This celebrates the foiling of the plot to blow up the Houses of Parliament in 1606. It is not as easy to coat apples with toffee as one might imagine and the points given in the recipe are important.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
Everton Toffee or Golden Toffee made with:
450 g/1 lb sugar, etc.
(see pages 330 and 336) 1 lb
8 to 10 small dessert apples
8 to 10
8 to 10 long wooden sticks for toffee apples
8 to 10
Choose ripe dessert apples, free from blemish and those with a crisp texture. Wash the apples well to get rid of the natural oils; dry thoroughly.
Assemble the extra equipment required. In addition to the ingredients, saucepan for making the toffee, the sugar thermometer and/or bowl of cold water for testing the toffee, you need:
1 a lightly oiled flat baking tin, upon which to stand the coated apples;
2 a large container, which should be filled with boiling water. The saucepan of hot toffee has to be placed in this container, to prevent the toffee hardening in the saucepan too soon. It must be kept liquid to coat the apples;
3 a bowl of cold water in which to dip the coated apples, so the toffee around the apples sets quickly;
4 waxed paper for wrapping the apples, if they are not to be eaten soon after preparing them.
Make the toffee as the recipe. Insert the sticks in the apples. Dip the first apple into the hot toffee, swirl it around so it has a good layer of toffee on all sides. Lift from the pan and then plunge into the bowl of cold water. Do this with all of the apples. Repeat the coating process at least once more, so the apples have a thick coating.
Stand the coated apples on the oiled tin and allow the toffee to set. Wrap the apples in squares of waxed paper.
Both the toffees suggested in the recipe above have a soft creamy texture. For a crisp brittle toffee use the recipe on page 333.
Cooking stage: 143°C/290°F Makes 350 g/12 oz
This recipe and Golden Toffee are two of the easiest of toffees to make. In the first recipe use a large and deep saucepan, for the mixture rises dramatically when the bicarbonate of soda is added. As the name suggests, this toffee has a texture like a honeycomb. Make only small quantities of this toffee; it becomes sticky in storage.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
40 g/1½ oz butter
3 tablespoons
250 g/9 oz granulated sugar
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons
3 tablespoons golden syrup
4 tablespoons
3 tablespoons water
4 tablespoons
6 drops white malt vinegar
6 drops
1½ level teaspoons bicarbonate of soda
1½ level teaspoons
Grease a 15 to 18 cm/6 to 7 inch square tin with a little of the butter. Put the remainder of the butter with the sugar, golden syrup and water into a strong saucepan. Stir over a moderate heat until the sugar has dissolved, then boil briskly until the mixture reaches the ‘hard crack’ stage, stir in the vinegar and then the bicarbonate of soda. Keep your hands well away from the hot mixture as it rises in the pan. Stir briskly then pour into the tin. Leave until quite cold and hard then break into pieces.
Cooking stage: 143°C/290°F Makes a generous 450 g/1 lb
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
50 g/2 oz butter
¼ cup
450 g/1 lb Demerara sugar
1 lb
200 ml/7 fl oz water
scant cup
2 tablespoons golden syrup
3 tablespoons
1 teaspoon white malt vinegar
1 teaspoon
Grease a 20 cm/8 inch square tin with a little of the butter. Put all the ingredients into a strong saucepan and stir over a moderate heat until dissolved. Boil briskly until the mixture reaches the ‘hard crack’ stage. Pour into the tin and allow to become quite cold, then break into pieces. Wrap in waxed paper.
Cooking stage: 121°C/250°F but see method Makes nearly 800 g/1¾ lb
Good caramels should have very much the same creamy taste as fudge but be much firmer in texture. They are not easy to cut, the best method is explained below.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
450 g/1 lb granulated sugar
1 lb
397 g/14 oz can full-cream sweetened condensed milk
1¾ cups
2 tablespoons water
3 tablespoons
100 g/4 oz butter
½ cup
25 g/1 oz golden syrup
1½ tablespoons
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
1 teaspoon
pinch cream of tartar
pinch
Grease a 20 cm/8 inch square tin with a very little butter.
Put all the ingredients, except the cream of tartar, into a strong saucepan. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved, then boil for 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the cream of tartar, stir well. Continue boiling steadily, stirring now and again, until the mixture reaches the ‘soft ball’ stage. This gives a soft caramel. For a harder sweetmeat boil to 129.4°C/265°F, the ‘very firm ball’ stage. For a really hard caramel boil to 132.2°C/270°F, the ‘light’ or ‘soft crack’ stage.
Do not beat the mixture, it must not be cloudy. Pour into the prepared tin.
To make the caramels easy to cut mark very firmly into squares when half set then cut with a very sharp knife when firm. Wrap in waxed paper.
Cut 175 g/6 oz (6 squares) plain chocolate into small pieces. Add to the mixture after the cream of tartar. Boil only to 121°C/250°F – the ‘soft ball’ stage.
Blend 175 g/6 oz (1 cup) desiccated coconut into the mixture just before it reaches 121°C/250°F – the ‘soft ball’ stage.
Omit the vanilla essence and add 1 to 2 teaspoons ground ginger or mixed spice to the mixture. You can also add 100 g/4 oz (¼ lb) diced preserved ginger just before it reaches 121°C/250°F – the ‘soft ball’ stage.
Chop 150 g/5 oz (1¼ cups) any nuts. Stir into the mixture (see above) at the ‘soft ball’ stage.
Cooking stage: 138°C/280°F Makes 500 g/1¼ lb
Both butterscotch and barley sugar are among the best of all home-made sweets. The recipe below uses a generous amount of butter and this is apparent in the flavour of the butterscotch.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
450 g/1 lb granulated sugar
1 lb
150 ml/¼ pint single cream or milk
⅔ cup
3 tablespoons water
4¼ tablespoons
75 g/3 oz butter
3/8 cup
pinch cream of tartar
pinch
To coat the tin: little melted butter
Grease a 23 cm/9 inch square tin with the butter. Put all the ingredients, except the cream of tartar, into a strong saucepan. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved then allow the mixture to boil steadily until it reaches the ‘crack’ stage. Stir several times to prevent the mixture sticking to the pan. Add the cream of tartar and stir well.
Pour the mixture into the tin. When nearly set, mark into squares with a heated knife. Leave until quite cold then separate the squares and wrap in waxed paper.
Cooking stage: 156°C/312°F Makes 450 g/1 lb
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
450 g/1 lb loaf or granulated sugar
1 lb
150 ml/¼ pint water
⅔ cup
few drops saffron yellow colouring
few drops
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
1½ teaspoons
To coat the tin: few drops oil
Grease a 20 cm/8 inch square tin with a very little oil. Put all the ingredients into a strong saucepan, stir over a moderate heat until the sugar has dissolved. Boil steadily, without stirring, until the mixture reaches the ‘brittle’ stage. Pour the mixture into the tin and leave until half-set, then mark in squares with a heated knife. Leave until quite cold, then remove the squares and wrap in waxed paper.
Variation:
Use half liquid glucose and half sugar. This makes a very crisp sweetmeat.
Cooking stage: 129°C/256°F Makes 450 g/1 lb
This Scottish sweetmeat is flavoured and coloured to taste as described in the ingredients. All culinary colourings should be used sparingly to give pale tints.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
450 g/1 lb loaf or granulated sugar
1 lb
200 ml/7 fl oz water, but see Variation
⅞ cup
pinch cream of tartar
pinch
to taste raspberry essence and pink colouring,
lemon essence and yellow colouring,
peppermint essence and green colouring to taste
To grease the tins: few drops oil
To dust the rock: little icing sugar
Put the sugar and water into a strong saucepan, stir until the sugar has dissolved then boil steadily until the mixture reaches the ‘light crack’ stage. Add the cream of tartar, stir well. Allow the mixture to cool in the pan until it stiffens slightly. Brush baking trays with the oil. Divide the mixture into 2 to 3 portions and put on the trays.
Work a very few drops of essence and colouring into the first portion; do the same with the other portions. You can of course use just one essence and colour, or simply flavour the mixture and not use colour.
Dust the work surface and your fingers with sifted icing sugar and pull and knead each portion of rock until it becomes opaque. Make very long thin sticks, then cut into lengths of about 12.5 cm/5 inches. Leave in the air for 24 hours, or until the mixture becomes powdery and soft. Pack in boxes.
Variation:
For a softer version of this rock use 300 ml/½ pint (1¼ cups) water and ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar. In very cold weather, boil only to 121°C/250°F; in very hot weather to 127°C/260°F.
Follow the recipe for Barley Sugar (see page 338). Brush a slab or baking tin with a little oil. Pour the mixture on to this. When cool enough to handle take portions and pull and knead into long sticks. Twist these. When firm wrap in waxed paper.
Cooking stage: 156°C/312°F Makes a scant 450 g/1 lb
When making boiled sweets that should have a clear texture it is important to remove any scum that floats to the top of the mixture during boiling.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
450 g/1 lb loaf or granulated sugar
1 lb
150 ml/¼ pint water
⅔ cup
1 level teaspoon tartaric acid
1 level teaspoon
To coat (optional): icing sugar
To produce good shaped sweets it is better to have small moulds. If not available, then lightly oil a baking tray.
Put the sugar and water into a strong saucepan, stir over a moderate heat until the sugar dissolves then boil the mixture until it reaches the ‘brittle’ stage. Allow the very hot mixture to cool slightly in the saucepan, then, while it is still a pouring consistency, carefully blend in the tartaric acid. Mix thoroughly.
Pour into the tiny moulds and allow the mixture to set, or pour into the tray and leave until sufficiently cool to handle, then form into long rounded bars. When cold, cut into small pieces. These could be rolled in a little sifted icing sugar.
Follow the recipe above but use various flavoured essences, such as blackcurrant, raspberry, lemon or orange. Look for those products that are labelled ‘natural essence’ for these give a far better taste to the sweets. Extra colouring can be added if desired. If using just one flavour then this can be added at the same time as the tartaric acid.
To produce a selection of flavours from just the 450 g/1 lb sugar etc. in the recipe above, add the tartaric acid and mix with the syrup then pour the unflavoured mixture into the oiled tray. Leave until sufficiently cool to handle.
Take a small portion of the mixture, allow a few drops of flavouring and of colouring, if using this, to drop on to the surface of the sweetmeat then work in by pulling and stretching the warm sweetmeat.
Repeat this process with different flavourings and colourings.
Insert a fine skewer into the bottle and turn it around until it is well coated then hold the skewer over the food to be flavoured, or coloured, and allow just a few drops of the liquid to fall from the skewer.
Chocolate itself is not easy to make – it is really a job for experts, for it depends upon the right ingredients and correct temperature, humidity and other conditions. It is quite satisfactory to buy chocolate and melt it to coat various filling. Tempering is less important when coating sweet with chocolate. The ideal melting temperatures are below.
Coverture chocolate: this is of high quality and obtainable in both dark (plain) and light (milk) flavours. It keeps its shine well if melted correctly. Heat to 46 to 47°C/115 to 117°F for plain couverture and 43°C/110°F for milk couverture. For some people chocolate couverture lacks sufficient sweetness.
Plain and bitter chocolates: buy the best quality possible. Heat to 53 to 54°C/128 to 130°F.
Milk and white chocolates: take great care these are not overheated in melting. Heat to 41°C/106°F.
Break the chocolate into small pieces, or grate it to make it easier to melt evenly. Remove the chocolate from the heat as soon as it looks slightly melted and check the temperature; it continues to soften in the heat of the container.
If melting over hot water: make sure the water does not touch the base of the basin in which the chocolate is placed. Heat the water under the chocolate to 82°C/180°F, this is well below boiling point, but hotter than your hands could bare.
If melting in a saucepan: stir over the lowest possible heat; remove the pan from the heat as soon as the chocolate shows signs of softening. If melting in a microwave: use the DEFROST setting and check progress regularly. Remove from the microwave as soon as the chocolate shows signs of melting.
Prepare the fillings before melting the chocolate. Arrange foil or waxed or greaseproof paper on flat trays.
Melt the chocolate then stir this to ensure you have an even texture and heat. Jellied sweets must be coated in cool liquid chocolate. Use a long-handled spoon or fork; there are proper dipping spoons and forks available.
Put the first sweet into the chocolate, turn around until evenly coated then lift out and hold over the chocolate, so any drips fall back into the container. Place the coated sweet on the foil or paper then continue coating the rest of the sweets, making sure the chocolate remains at the right temperature.
Allow the chocolate coating to stiffen slightly then top the chocolates with nuts, crystallized roses, violet petals or other decorations.
Dessert dates look most attractive if stuffed with marzipan. Carefully remove the stones from the fruit so their shape is not spoiled. Fill each date with a little marzipan. This can be tinted, or mixed with chopped nuts or chopped glacé fruits. Roll the coated dates in a little sifted icing sugar.
No cooking Makes 450 g/1 lb
This recipe is very similar to royal icing (see page 310). In fact, left-over icing can be used to make the sweetmeats by adding peppermint flavouring.
Metric Imperial Ingredients
American
2 egg whites
2
450 g/1 lb icing sugar
scant 4 cups
2 teaspoons glycerine
2 teaspoons
few drops oil of peppermint or peppermint essence
few drops
To roll the sweets: extra icing sugar
Put the egg whites into a bowl and whisk until just frothy. Sift the icing sugar into the egg whites, add the glycerine and flavouring. Beat with a wooden spoon, or use an electric mixer on low speed, until the mixture is very white and smooth.
Dust a slab or pastry board and a rolling pin with more sifted icing sugar. Roll out the sweetmeat until 6 mm/¼ inch in thickness, cut into small rounds. Leave in the air for some hours to harden, then pack in airtight containers.
Make the sweets as the recipe on this page, or on page 323. Allow the sweets to harden slightly and then coat in chocolate (see page 341).
Most sweets can be coated in chocolate (see page 341). The most successful are:
Caramels and Toffees: make these sweets as the recipes on pages 330 to 337. Cut into neat squares when cold and coat with chocolate as soon as possible, so the sweets do not become sticky.
Fondant: make the fondant as the various suggestions on pages 321 to 323. Leave until firm before coating.
Fudge and Candy: make these as the recipes on pages 324 to 328 and allow to become cold, then cut into neat shapes. Do not leave in the air for too long or the sweets will become over-hard before coating.
Peppermint Creams: see pages 323 and above.