Dar es Salaam
Sights
Activities
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Around Dar es Salaam
Northern Beaches
Offshore Islands
Southern Beaches
Dar es Salaam
%022 / Pop 4.36 million
Why Go?
Over the last century, Dar es Salaam has grown from a sleepy Zaramo fishing village into a thriving tropical metropolis of over four million people. Straddling some of the most important sea routes in the world, it is East Africa’s second-busiest port and Tanzania’s commercial hub. Despite this, and its notorious traffic jams, the city has managed to maintain a low-key, down-to-earth feel.
Rimming the central area is Kivukoni Front, with a bustling fish market where dhows dock at dawn to offload the night's catch. Excellent craft markets and restaurants abound, and nearby sandy beaches and islands beckon.
Dar es Salaam’s architecture is a mixture of African, Arab, Indian and German, although much of this is now dwarfed by towering high-rises. Many travellers bypass ‘Dar’ completely; those that linger will encounter the city’s eclectic cultural mix and languid vibe.
When to Go
AMar–May Low season, cheaper rates, fewer tourists, but some coastal lodges are closed.
AJun–Sep Dry, cool weather and low humidity make this a comfortable season to explore the city.
ADec & Jan Christmas/New Year holidays on nearby beaches, the arrival of migratory birds.
Best Places to Stay
Best Places to Eat
A Oriental
Dar es Salaam Highlights
1 Offshore Islands Heading out to Mbudya and Bongoyo for snorkelling and picnics.
2 Coco Beach Joining hard-working locals living it up at the city's main weekend beach hang-out.
3 Wonder Workshop Shopping for wonderfully wacky, upcycled souvenirs.
4 Local Life Getting to know the real Dar es Salaam on a bicycling, cultural or walking tour.
5 Dekeza Dhows Enjoying being on the water and exploring by dhow or kayak.
6 Ras Kutani Escaping to this luxuriously unspoilt headland where turtles come to nest.
7 Cuisine Savouring Dar es Salaam's diverse cuisine, including dhoklas, barbecued meat, spiced tea and coconut-crusted fish.
8 Birding Getting acquainted with Dar es Salaam's avian wealth on a bird walk.
History
In 1862 Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar alighted on the Zaramo fishing village of Mzizima as the location for his new summer palace. He named it Dar es Salaam (Haven of Peace), a name that reflected its isolated location on a broad natural bay, making it perfect for the new trading depot he envisaged. Yemeni Arabs from the Hadrumat were invited to plant coconuts inland while Indian merchants contributed to the fledgling economy.
Majid’s sudden death in 1870 brought an abrupt end to the development, as his succeeding brother, Barghash, had little interest in the new port. So it wasn’t until the late 1880s, when the German East Africa Company established a trading station, that the city really began to evolve. By 1887 Dar was the capital of the new German protectorate. The colonial administration was moved from Bagamoyo and the construction of a railway line accelerated the city’s growth, facilitating trade with Central Africa via Lake Tanganyika.
As the city grew, social and political awareness grew too. Ironically, WWI was to prove the catalyst for the revival of African institutions such as the Tanganyika African Association, which was sanctioned by the postwar British administration in 1922. This organisation ultimately merged with the Tanganyika African National Union (TANU) to form the basis for the nationalist movement, which achieved independence for the country in 1961. Since then Dar es Salaam has remained Tanzania’s undisputed political and economic capital, even though the legislature and official seat of government were transferred to Dodoma in 1973.
In the newly independent Tanzania, Dar fared poorly. President Julius Nyerere favoured a socialist economic model, and one in which urban areas were de-emphasised in favour of rural investment. As Tanzania’s primary city, Dar es Salaam languished while a newly nationalised labour market and centralised government spawned Byzantine levels of bureaucracy and corruption. Still, the close ties of friendship between Nyerere and China started to pay dividends when socialism was abandoned in favour of liberalisation in the 1990s. Since then Chinese investment has transformed the city from a quaint colonial backwater into a high-rise metropolis and Beijing is now Dar es Salaam’s biggest trading partner. Investment is focused on large-scale projects such as roads, bridges, railways, apartments and pipelines. Most notably, though, there is significant investment in the new city of Kigamboni over the bay, where the future of Dar es Salaam lies in a 20-year, US$11.6 trillion project set for completion in 2032.
1Sights
Dar es Salaam’s centre runs along Samora Ave. Northeast of here is Uzunguni, the old colonial centre where all the sights are located. Southwest are Kisutu and Mchafukoge, the Asian quarter, with its many Indian merchants and traders. It is here that the city is at its most exotic, with dozens of shops selling everything from lighting fixtures to textiles and spicy samosas. Further west and southwest a jumble of earthy neighbourhoods takes over, including Kariakoo, Temeke and Ilala. In these areas – seldom reached by travellers – sandy streets wind past densely packed houses and thriving street markets.
North of the centre, across Selander Bridge, are the upmarket residential areas of Oyster Bay and Msasani, with their Western-style dining and shopping, and the city’s main stretch of sand, Coco Beach.
Nafasi Art SpaceGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0753 334310, 0673 334314; www.nafasiartspace.org; Eyasi Rd, Light Industrial Area, Mikocheni B; 
h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)
Aiming to be the leading contemporary art centre in Tanzania, Nafasi is a complex of studios housed in an old industrial warehouse in Mikocheni. Many local member artists work there alongside regional and international residencies, all of whom exhibit in the on-site gallery. The centre provides a platform for training and cross-cultural discourse, which it promotes through monthly events such as Chap Chap, which combines an exhibition and open workshops with evening music, theatre and dance.
National Museum & House of CultureMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-211 7508; Shaaban Robert St; adult/student Tsh6500/2600; h9.30am-6pm)
The National Museum houses a copy of the famous fossil discoveries of zinjanthropus ('nutcracker man') from Olduvai Gorge, plus other archaeological finds. Wander through the History Room and ethnographic collection for insights into Tanzania's past and its mosaic of cultures, including the Shirazi civilisation of Kilwa, the Zanzibar slave trade, and the German and British colonial periods. Despite renovations, however, the museum still has much work to do on appropriate displays and the curation of a coherent narrative.
For vintage auto aficionados, there’s a small special collection, including the Rolls-Royce used first by the British colonial government and later by Julius Nyerere.
Village MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-270 0437, 0718 525682; New Bagamoyo Rd; adult/student Tsh6500/2600, dance & drum performance Tsh2000; h9am-6pm)
This open-air museum features a collection of authentically constructed dwellings illustrating traditional life in various parts of Tanzania. Each house is furnished with typical items and surrounded by small plots of crops, while 'villagers' demonstrate traditional skills such as weaving, pottery and carving. Traditional tribal dance performances also take place daily, whenever there is sufficient demand.
The museum is 9km north of the city centre; Mwenge dalla-dallas run there from New Posta transport stand (Tsh400, 45 minutes). Get off at 'Makumbusho'; the museum is across the street.
St Joseph CathedralCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.daressalaamarchdiocese.or.tz/st-joseph-cathedral; Sokoine Dr)
This spired, Gothic-style, Roman Catholic cathedral was built at the turn of the 19th century by German missionaries. In addition to the striking stained-glass windows behind the main altar (best viewed late in the afternoon), it still contains many of the original German inscriptions and artwork, including the carved relief above the main altar.
Azania Front Lutheran ChurchCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.azaniafront.org; cnr Azikiwe St & Sokoine Dr)
A striking edifice, with a red-roofed belfry overlooking the water, a rather stern Gothic interior and a marvellous, new handmade organ, this is one of the city’s major landmarks. The church was built in 1898 by German missionaries and was the centre of the German mission in Tanzania; now it is the cathedral for the diocese and is still in active use for services and choir rehearsals (beautiful – you can sometimes hear the singing from the street).
Services in English are held Sunday mornings at 9am; all other services are in Swahili.
Fish MarketMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Kivukoni Front; h6am-sunset)
Head down to the Kivukoni fish market in the early morning to see fishers flog their catch to restauranteurs and homemakers with all the zeal of Wall St stockbrokers. The market is divided into two main sections, comprising eight zones, one of which is the auction. In other sections fish are cleaned, cooked and resold at marked-up prices. It’s colourful and chaotic, and you could walk away with a handsome snapper for as little as Tsh3000.
State HouseARCHITECTURE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Luthuli St)
An imposing complex set amid large grounds, the State House was originally built by the Germans and rebuilt after WWI by the British.
Botanical GardensGARDENS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Samora Ave; h6am-6pm)
F
Although in danger of disappearing beneath development, these botanical gardens provide an essential shady oasis in the city. They were established in 1893 by Professor Stuhlman, the first Director of Agriculture, and were initially used as a testing ground for cash crops. They're still home to the Horticultural Society, which tends the indigenous and exotic plants, including scarlet flame trees, several species of palm, cycads and jacaranda.
2City Walk
Historic Dar es Salaam
Start Cnr Samora Ave & Azikiwe St
End Cnr Samora Ave & Azikiwe St
Length 4.5km; two hours
Begin at 1Askari monument (Samora Ave & Azikiwe St), a bronze statue dedicated to Africans killed in WWI. Head northeast along Samora Ave to Shaaban Robert St and the 2National Museum. Continue northeast along Samora Ave for half a block. On the right is 3Karimjee Hall, the former house of parliament where Julius Nyerere was sworn in as president. Continue along Samora Ave to Luthuli St. To the northeast is 4Ocean Rd Hospital, built in 1897. The small, white, domed building just before is where Robert Koch carried out his pioneering research on malaria and tuberculosis around the turn of the 20th century.
Head south along Luthuli St. On your left is the 5State House, originally built by the Germans and then rebuilt after WWI by the British. Just southeast on the seafront is the 6Fish Market.
From the fish market, head west along Kivukoni Front (Azania Front). To the right are 7government buildings, including the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Ministry of Justice and Bureau of Statistics, all dating from the German era. Left is the seafront. Continue straight to the old 8Kilimanjaro Hotel (now Hyatt Regency Dar es Salaam).
Just beyond is 9Azania Front Lutheran Church, with its landmark red-roofed belfry. The church was built at the turn of the 20th century by German missionaries. Continuing along the waterfront are, first, the aOld Post Office and, then, the bWhite Fathers’ Mission House, one of the city’s oldest buildings. One block beyond this is cSt Joseph Cathedral, another landmark. The cathedral, also built by German missionaries, contains many original German inscriptions and some artwork, including the carved relief above the main altar. From St Joseph’s, head one block north along Bridge St to Samora Ave. Follow this east, back to the Askari monument.
2Activities
For swimming, try the pool (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-260 0288; www.goldentulipdaressalaam.com; Toure Dr; per person Tsh20,000) at the Golden Tulip Hotel. Guided bird walks can be arranged in and around Dar es Salaam with Andrew Majembe (%0658 490399, 0784 490399).
TanzaquaticFISHING, CRUISE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0786 058370, 0654 454535; www.facebook.com/tanzaquatic; Slipway, Slipway Rd, Msasani; glass-bottom boat per person US$10-20)
Enjoy the natural beauty of Msasani Bay on sunset cruises, glass-bottom boat trips, fishing excursions (from US$450 per half-day for four people) and snorkelling and picnic trips to Bongoyo, Mbudya and Sinda. They can also be contacted through Sea Breeze Marine (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0754 783241; www.seabreezemarine.org; Slipway, Slipway Rd, Msasani).
Bongoyo Boat TripsOUTDOORS
(
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; %0713 328126; Slipway, Slipway Rd, Msasani; return adult/child Tsh46,500/23,250; hfour departures daily 9.30am-3.30pm, minimum four passengers; 
c)
If you don't have a car, the quickest and easiest way to enjoy some offshore island fun is to hop on the ferry from the Slipway to Bongoyo Island in the Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve System. The last boat returns at 5pm and the marine reserve fee is included in the price. The crossing takes about 30 minutes.
Coco BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Toure Dr)
North of the city centre, the Msasani Peninsula is fringed with a long stretch of sand and coral rag beach along its eastern side. Swimming is only possible at high tide, but it's a favourite weekend spot for locals, when the beach is dotted with food stalls, coconut stands and beer sellers.
BounceAMUSEMENT PARK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0776 865854, 0685 619599; Mkuki House Mall, Nyerere Rd; over/under 10s Tsh10,000/7000, plus socks Tsh5000; h2-10pm Tue-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat & Sun; c)
Billed as East Africa's first trampoline park, Bounce is a good way for kids to work off some extra energy.
Northern Dar es Salaam
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
7Shopping
8Information
zFestivals & Events
Goat RacesCULTURAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.goatraces.co.tz; The Green, Kenyatta Dr; adult/child Tsh20,000/10,000; hSep)
Each September, have a flutter on Dar's finest racing goats. If your billy goat comes first you get the cash; if not, your money goes to support charities.
Nyama ChomaFOOD & DRINK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0719 217550; www.facebook.com/nyamachomafest; Tunisia Rd, at Leader's Club, off Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd; entry Tsh30,000; hMar, Jun, Sep, Dec; c)
The largest barbecue block party in East Africa, this quarterly festival showcases the skills of Dar’s finest pit-masters alongside live bands, soccer matches and a kids' corner.
Swahili Fashion WeekCULTURAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.swahilifashionweek.com; 104 Kenyatta Dr; hDec)
Get a heads-up on Tanzania's sartorial trends at this annual fashion show, which serves as the largest platform for East African designers.
DON'T MISS
DAR ES SALAAM CULTURAL TOURS
Amid the clamour of Dar’s development boom it can sometimes be hard to get a sense of the city’s history and culture. If you have time, it's rewarding to take a walking or other cultural tour for a glimpse of life at street level.
AfrirootsCYCLING, WALKING
(%0732 926350, 0713 652642, 0787 459887; www.afriroots.co.tz; Dar es Salaam tours per person US$40-50)
Runs a history walk around the city centre, exploring Dar’s evolution from the Omani sultanate to key ANC (African National Congress) and Frelimo hot spots in the struggle for independence, as well as a ‘behind-the-scenes’ cycle tour where you’ll get to meet locals and hear their stories about living in the city, and a 'Dar by Night' tour to get acquainted with local nightlife.
Kigamboni Community CentreTOURS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0788 482684, 0753 226662; www.kccdar.com; Kigamboni)
This impressive, locally run centre provides education, talent development and vocational training for Kigamboni-area youth. For visitors, it can organise traditional dance, drumming, acrobatic, cooking and Swahili lessons, plus walking and cycling tours. Monday through Saturday from 5pm to 6pm is the best time to visit. With luck, you’ll catch one of the free talent shows; call ahead to confirm.
To get here, take the ferry to Kigamboni and get a bajaji (tuk-tuk) to the centre; it’s opposite the Kigamboni police station next to Kakala bar.
DAR ES SALAAM FOR CHILDREN
Dar es Salaam is full of fun things to do with children:
ABoat trips to Bongoyo for grilled fish and snorkelling.
ADrumming or acrobatics classes at the Kigamboni Community Centre.
AKunduchi Wet 'n' Wild water-park fun.
ATrampolining at Bounce.
ASunset kayaking up Siwatibe Creek with Dekeza Dhows.
ASwimming in the pool at the Golden Tulip.
AWatching the kitesurfers at Coco Beach.
4Sleeping
Dar es Salaam has a wide variety of accommodation. Most budget hotels and some midrange places are in the city centre, with several midrange options also on the quieter Msasani Peninsula. Top-end hotels are aimed at business travellers and tourists returning from luxury safaris; expect to pay from US$200 per room. The closest places for camping are along South Beach, on the southern side of Kurasini Creek.
City Centre & Upanga
Most of the reliable budget and midrange lodgings are located in the city centre neighbourhoods of Kisutu and Mchafukoge, which are packed with food stalls and restaurants, and are walkable from the ferry terminal. Comfortable high-end accommodation and flagship hotels like the Hyatt and Dar es Salaam Serena are located in the old colonial quarters of Uzunguni and Kivukoni, in the heart of the city centre. There are also several options in the Upanga residential district, on the edge of the city centre and just southwest of Selander Bridge.
YMCAHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0758 097733, 0754 645103, 022-213 5457; Upanga Rd; dm/s/d Tsh15,000/25,000/28,000; 
i)
This YMCA offers no-frills rooms that are fairly quiet considering the city-centre location. It's in a small compound around the corner from the post office, and also has a canteen with inexpensive meals. Men and women are accepted. Downstairs is a small internet cafe.
YWCAHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0713 622707; Maktaba St; dm/tr Tsh15,000/50,000, s/d with shared bathroom Tsh20,000/30,000)
Located on a small side street between the main post office and St Alban's Anglican church, this YWCA has basic rooms with concrete floors, fans, sinks and clean, shared bathrooms. Rooms get a fair amount of street noise, although those around the inner courtyard are quieter. Men and women are accepted, and the restaurant serves inexpensive local-style meals.
Safari InnHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-213 8101, 0754 485013; www.safariinn.co.tz; Band St; s/d with fan Tsh28,000/35,000, with air-con Tsh35,000/45,000; 
ai
W)
A popular and long-standing travellers haunt in Kisutu, with English-speaking staff, the Safari Inn has 42 rooms, 10 of which are air-conditioned. All rooms have mosquito nets.
EconolodgeHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-211 6049, 022-211 6048; econolodge@raha.com; Band St; s/d/tr with fan Tsh28,000/38,000/48,000, with air-con Tsh38,000/48,000/55,000; a)
Clean, bland, but good-value rooms hidden away in an aesthetically unappealing high-rise close to the Kisutu St bus booking offices. There are no mosquito nets, but rooms have fans and air-con for circulation. Cash only.
Harbour View SuitesBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0784 564848, 022-212 4040; www.harbourview-suites.com; Samora Ave; r US$125-175; aW
s)
Well-equipped, centrally located business traveller apartments with views over the city or the harbour. Some rooms have mosquito nets, and all have modern furnishings and a kitchenette. There’s a business centre, a fitness centre, a restaurant and a blues bar. Very popular and often full. Underneath is JM Mall shopping centre, with an ATM and supermarket.
Holiday InnHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-213 9250, 0684 885250; www.holidayinn.co.tz; cnr Maktaba St & Upanga Rd; r from US$136; 
paiW)
This popular downtown hotel offers modern rooms, courteous service, a handsome buffet breakfast and a rooftop restaurant. Add to that a free daily shuttle service to/from Jangwani Sea Breeze Lodge for guests wanting a swim, plus travel advice on booking charter flights to Zanzibar Island and Pemba. Rates are higher when booked on-site (ie not online).
Heritage MotelHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0787 464683, 022-211 7471; www.heritagemotel.co.tz; cnr Kaluta & Bridge Sts; s/d/tw/tr US$60/80/85/90; aW)
Good-value rooms in a central location just 15 minutes' walk from the ferry terminal. Rooms are spacious, clean and comfortable, with a minifridge, TV, and flyscreens on the windows. Al Basha restaurant next door serves the hotel breakfast plus good Lebanese food.
Ramada EncoreBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-234 3434; www.ramadaencoredar.com; 542 Ghana Ave; s/d from US$128/140; paW)
A new addition to Dar es Salaam's business traveller hotels, the high-rise Ramada Encore has small but reasonably well-appointed rooms, an overwhelming red-grey-black colour scheme, and good views from some of the rooms over the green grounds of the Gymkhana Club and the sea in the distance.
Rainbow HotelHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-212 0024, 0754 261314; www.rainbow-hoteltz.com; Morogoro Rd; s US$45-55, d US$65-90; aW)
Centrally located right in the thick of things on Morogoro Rd, just a five-minute walk from the Zanzibar ferry terminal, Rainbow distinguishes itself with its efficient staff, decent restaurant and serviceable, tidy rooms, which all have firm beds, TVs and air-conditioning. Taxis are located just outside the front door. Two-bedroom apartments are also available for families (US$130 to US$150).
Sleep InnHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0754 362866, 022-212 7341, 022-212 7340; www.sleepinnhoteltz.com; Jamhuri St; s/d US$60/75; aW)
This high-rise hotel has a convenient location in the heart of the Asian Quarter and basic but clean rooms with fan, air-con, refrigerator and small double bed. Check several rooms, as their size and condition vary. Breakfast is included; for other meals there are many restaurants nearby.
oSouthern SunHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0757 700000, 022-213 7575; www.tsogosunhotels.com; Garden Ave; s/d from US$202/228; paWsc)
With its Afro-Islamic decor, popular restaurant and professional service, the Southern Sun punches way above its weight. Rooms are furnished with plush, comfortable beds and all mod-cons, while the generous buffet breakfast can be enjoyed on a terrace overlooking the Botanical Gardens. Modest rate reductions are available on weekends.
Dar es Salaam Serena HotelHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-221 2500, 022-211 2416; www.serenahotels.com; Ohio St; s/d from US$242/268; paiWsc)
Serena has an unbeatable location in enormous gardens overlooking the golf course of the Gymkhana Club, and a lovely, large swimming pool. Rooms offer all the bells and whistles you'd expect from a five-star hotel.
Hyatt Regency Dar es SalaamHOTEL$$$
(The Kilimanjaro;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0764 704704, 0764 701234; www.daressalaamkilimanjaro.regency.hyatt.com; 24 Kivukoni Front; r from US$300; paWs)
'The Kilimanjaro' has been a Dar landmark since its opening in the mid-1960s and has hosted a stream of pop stars and dignitaries. In 2006 a huge refurbishment transformed its tired decor into a sleek, marble-clad haven of luxury with ultramodern rooms, two stylish restaurants, a harbour-view bar and rooftop infinity pool.
Protea CourtyardHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-213 0130; https://protea.marriott.com; Barack Obama Dr; s/d US$200/230; paiWs)
Opened in 1948 by her Royal Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan, this art deco hotel preserves a slice of Dar’s history. Among its prominent guests are African independence leaders Jomo Kenyatta and Kenneth Kaunda. There's a small pool in the flower-filled courtyard, as well as a wood-panelled bar, business facilities and a terrace restaurant serving good Indian food.
Msasani Peninsula
If you have some extra time and don’t mind paying for taxis or travelling the distance from the airport (about 20km), the hotels on the Msasani Peninsula offer a break from the urban bustle. If you decide to stay here, bear in mind the traffic bottleneck over Selander Bridge, which should be avoided at all costs during rush hour.
Slipway Studio ApartmentsAPARTMENT$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0713 888301, 0713 408696; Slipway, Msasani; r without breakfast US$75; pW)
Straightforward self-catering apartments adjoining the Slipway shopping complex.
Hotel SlipwayHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0713 888301, 022-260 0893; www.hotelslipway.com; Slipway, Msasani; s US$120-260, d US$135-275, tr US$170-290; paWsc)
Integrated into the seafront Slipway shopping complex, this apart-hotel offers good-value accommodation. Rooms and apartments are bright and breezy, with handcrafted wooden furniture, bright Indian bed throws, sea-facing balconies and, in the apartments, well-equipped kitchenettes. On your doorstep you also have three standout restaurants, including the popular Waterfront.
Baobab Village ApartmentsAPARTMENT$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0769 395501; Baobab Village Rd; apt US$80; paWs)
Straightforward one-bedroom furnished, serviced apartments with kitchen, located about 1.5km north of the Slipway and just east of Chole Rd. Minimum stay is usually five nights.
Triniti GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0755 963686, 0769 628328; www.triniti.co.tz; 26 Msasani Rd; s/d from US$70/80; paW)
Triniti offers informal lodge-like accommodation in detached wooden bungalows set in a mature garden. While rooms are small, they are painted spotlessly white and are decorated with local artworks and colourful furnishings. Breakfast is a communal affair with homebaked doughnuts, fruit and eggs to order. On Friday night the bar hosts a live band and DJ.
oAlexander's HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0754 343834; www.alexanders-tz.com; Maryknoll Lane; s/d from US$150/185; aWsc)
With its Le Corbusier–style modernist lines, spacious rooftop terrace and shady courtyard, family-run Alexander's is a true boutique hotel. Its 17 stylish rooms have comfortable beds, plump pillows and bright kikoi throws, and all front a shaded pool. Breakfast is served in the art- and book-filled dining room, while sundowners and dinners are enjoyed on the upstairs terrace.
Sea Cliff HotelHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-552 9900, 0764 700600; www.hotelseacliff.com; Toure Dr; r from US$320; paiWs)
Sea Cliff has an excellent setting overlooking the ocean at the northern tip of Msasani Peninsula. The extensive facilities include a fitness centre, a beauty salon, a casino and restaurants. The best feature, however, is the large cliff-top garden and pool. When booking, it's worth enquiring about special deals.
Coral Beach HotelHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0784 260192; www.coralbeach-tz.com; Coral Lane, Masaki; s/d from US$110/135; paiWs)
A quiet hotel (part of the Best Western chain) with front-row views of the sunset over Oyster Bay. Rooms, in new and old wings, are large and comfortable, with louvred shutters and coral print throws. Many in the old wing don't have views, so check when you're booking.
Protea Hotel Oyster BayHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
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; %0784 666665, 022-266 6665; http://protea.marriott.com; cnr Haile Selassie & Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rds; s US$220, d US$250, 2-bedroom apt US$320; paWs)
Part of the South African Protea chain, this hotel is styled something like a motel, with accommodation units (all with kitchenettes) arranged around an internal garden and pool. Rooms have rather bland, modern decor but are well furnished and service is friendly and professional. There's also a gym and conference facilities, making it popular with the business crowd.
Mikocheni & Kawe Beach
The residential area of Mikocheni can take ages to reach from the city centre during rush hour. However, it's convenient for self-drivers heading north towards Jangwani and Kunduchi Beaches or on towards Bagamoyo. It also has easy access to good restaurants and shopping. Nearby Kawe Beach is tranquil and serene once you arrive, with some appealing restaurants and nightlife venues nearby.
Taste of MexicoB&B$
(CEFA;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %022-278 0425; www.tasteofmexico.co.tz; off Old Bagamoyo Rd, Mikocheni B; s/d/tr/q Tsh50,000/70,000/100,000/120,000; pWc)
This place offers simple, spacious rooms in an attractive, Mediterranean-style building. There's also a breezy rooftop bar and restaurant featuring Mexican dishes. The property is signposted and is one block in from Old Bagamoyo Rd (the turn-off is three blocks north of Bima Rd and about 2km north of Mikocheni B cemetery).
Mediterraneo HotelHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0754 812567, 0777 812567; www.mediterraneotanzania.com; Tuari Rd, Kawe; s/d US$130/160; paiWsc)
With its clubby weekend vibe and spacious garden rooms the Mediterraneo is a great family-friendly option. Rooms have wrought-iron beds and colour-washed walls, while the popular open-sided restaurant serves Italian food overlooking Kawe Beach. Its all-night beach party on the third Saturday of the month is either to be awaited or avoided, depending on your mindset. Significant discounts for online bookings.
Ubungo
For travellers transiting through Ubungo bus terminal, there are several inexpensive hotels just west of the terminal and in Ubungo village to the south. Taxis, located just outside the terminal, should cost no more than Tsh5000.
Rombo Green View HotelHOTEL$
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MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0784 461042; www.rombogreenviewhotel.com; Shekilango Rd; s with shared bathroom US$25, s/d/tr from US$30/45/60; pai)
This large, undistinguished hotel offers inexpensive although very mediocre rooms. Room size and condition vary considerably, so ask to see several. There's also a bar and a restaurant. It's about 700m east of the Ubungo bus terminal, just off Morogoro Rd.
Moveck HotelHOTEL$
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GOOGLE MAP
; %0768 688343, 0713 984411; moveckhotel@gmail.com; Maziwa Rd; r with fan Tsh30,000, r with air-con Tsh40,000-50,000; a)
Located in Ubungo village is this three-storey hotel with basic, serviceable double-bed rooms with mosquito nets, fans (some also have air-con) and en suite hot showers. There's a restaurant next door serving nyama choma (barbecued meat). It's located 500m south of the main bus station in Ubungo.