Environment & National Parks
At over 943,000 sq km, or almost four times the size of the UK, Tanzania is East Africa's largest country. It encompasses a diversity of landscapes – forested mountains, open savannah lands, several major lakes and rivers, and a long coastline. It also hosts a wealth of animal and plant life, and has an exceptional collection of national parks.
Topography
Tanzania is bordered to the east by the Indian Ocean, with its wealth of corals, fish and sea turtles. To the west are the deep lakes of the Western Rift Valley, Lake Tanganyika and Lake Nyasa (Lake Malawi). Both have lush mountains rising up from their shores. Much of central Tanzania is an arid highland plateau averaging 900m to 1800m in altitude and nestled between the eastern and western branches of the Great Rift Valley. Savannah landscapes are best seen in the north, in Serengeti National Park.
Tanzania’s mountain ranges are grouped into a sharply rising northeastern section, known as the Eastern Arc, and an open, rolling central and southern section known as the southern Highlands or Southern Arc. A range of volcanoes and extinct volcanoes known as the Crater Highlands rises from the side of the Great Rift Valley in northern Tanzania.
The country's largest river is the Rufiji, which drains the Southern Highlands en route to the coast, and which is scheduled to be dammed as part of the planned Steigler's Gorge hydroelectric power project. Other major rivers include the Ruvu, Wami, Pangani and Ruvuma.
THE GREAT RIFT VALLEY
The Great Rift Valley is part of the East African rift system – a massive geological fault stretching 6500km across the African continent, from the Dead Sea in the north to Beira (Mozambique) in the south. The rift system was formed over 30 million years ago when the tectonic plates comprising the African and Eurasian landmasses collided and then diverged. As the plates separated, large chunks of the earth’s crust dropped down between them, resulting over millennia in the escarpments, ravines, flatlands and lakes that characterise East Africa’s topography today.
The rift system is notable for its calderas and volcanoes (including Mt Kilimanjaro, Mt Meru and the calderas of the Crater Highlands) and for its lakes, which are often very deep, with floors well below sea level although their surfaces may be several hundred metres above sea level.
The Tanzanian Rift Valley consists of two branches formed where the main rift system divides north of Kenya’s Lake Turkana. The Western Rift Valley extends past Lake Albert (Uganda) through Rwanda and Burundi to Lakes Tanganyika and Nyasa, while the eastern branch (Eastern or Gregory Rift) runs south from Lake Turkana, past Lakes Natron and Manyara, before joining again with the Western Rift by Lake Nyasa. The lakes of the Eastern Rift are smaller than those in the western branch, with some only waterless salt beds. The largest are Lakes Natron and Manyara. Lake Eyasi is in a side branch off the main rift.
The escarpments of Tanzania’s portion of the Rift Valley are most impressive in and around the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and Lake Manyara National Park.
Wildlife
Zebras, elephants, wildebeest, buffaloes, hippos, giraffes, antelope, dik-diks, gazelles, elands and both greater and lesser kudus – these are just some of the 430 species and subspecies that make up Tanzania's four-million-plus wild animal population. The country is famed in particular for its predators, with Serengeti National Park one of the best places for spotting lions, cheetahs and leopards. There are also hyenas and wild dogs (the latter in Ruaha National Park and Selous Game Reserve), and in Gombe and Mahale Mountains National Parks, chimpanzees.
Tanzania is notable for lying in a transition zone between the savannah lands of East Africa and the miombo (brachystegia) woodland habitats of southern Africa, and hosts species common to each area. This transition is best seen in Ruaha National Park, where East African highlights such as Grant's gazelle are found alongside more southerly ones such as Lichtenstein's hartebeest and greater kudu.
Complementing the country's wealth of large animals are over 1000 bird species, making Tanzania an ornithologist's dream. Commonly sighted birds include kingfishers, hornbills (around Amani in the eastern Usambaras), bee-eaters (along the Rufiji and Wami Rivers), fish eagles (Lake Victoria) and flamingos (Lakes Manyara and Natron). There are also many birds that are unique to Tanzania, including the Udzungwa forest partridge, the Pemba green pigeon, the Usambara weaver and the Usambara eagle owl.
In addition, Tanzania has over 60,000 insect species, about 25 types of reptiles or amphibians, 100 species of snakes and numerous fish species.
SAVING THE SEA TURTLES
Tanzania’s sea turtle population is critically endangered, due to nest poaching, subsistence hunting and turtles getting caught in fishing nets. Sea Sense (www.seasense.org) has been working with coastal communities to protect turtles, as well as dugongs, whale sharks and other endangered marine species. It has made considerable progress, especially with its community nest protection program.
As part of this initiative, local community members are trained as ‘turtle tour guides’ to take visitors to nesting sites to watch hatchlings emerge and make their way to the sea. Places where this is possible include Dar es Salaam’s South Beach, Ushongo beach (south of Pangani) and Mafia island. The modest fee is split between Sea Sense, to support its nest protection program, and local village environment funds. In this way, community members are able to benefit directly from their conservation efforts. If you’d like to watch a sea turtle nest hatching, contact Sea Sense (info@seasense.org).
Endangered Species
Endangered species include the black rhino; Uluguru bush shrike; hawksbill, green, olive ridley and leatherback turtle; red colobus monkey; wild dog; and Pemba flying fox.
Plants
Patches of tropical rainforest in Tanzania’s Eastern Arc mountains provide home to a rich assortment of plants, many found nowhere else in the world. These include the Usambara or African violet (Saintpaulia) and impatiens, which are sold as house plants in grocery stores throughout the West. Similar forest patches – remnants of the much larger tropical forest that once extended across the continent – are also found in the Udzungwas, Ulugurus and several other areas. South and west of the Eastern Arc range are stands of baobab.
Away from the mountain ranges, much of the country is covered by miombo (‘moist’ woodland), where the main vegetation is various types of brachystegia tree. Much of the dry central plateau is covered with savannah, bushland and thickets, while grasslands cover the Serengeti Plains and other areas that lack good drainage.
THE EASTERN ARC MOUNTAINS
The ancient Eastern Arc mountains (which include the Usambara, Pare, Udzungwa and Uluguru ranges) stretch in a broken crescent from southern Kenya’s Taita Hills down to Morogoro and the Southern Highlands. They are estimated to be at least 100 million years old, with the stones forming them as much as 600 million years old. Their climatic isolation and stability has offered plant species a chance to develop, and today these mountains are highly biodiverse and home to an exceptional assortment of plants and birds. Plant and bird numbers in the mountain ranges total about one-third of Tanzania’s flora and fauna species, and include many unique species plus a wealth of medicinal plants.
In the late 19th century, population growth and expansion of the local logging industry began to cause depletion of the Eastern Arc’s original forest cover, and erosion became a serious problem. It became so bad in parts of the western Usambaras that in the early 1990s entire villages had to be shifted to lower areas. The situation has now somewhat stabilised, with a reduction in logging and the initiation of several tree-planting projects. However, it remains a serious concern.
National Parks & Reserves
Tanzania has 16 mainland national parks, 14 wildlife reserves, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, three marine parks and several protected marine reserves. Until relatively recently, development and tourism were focused almost exclusively on the northern parks (Serengeti, Lake Manyara, Tarangire and Arusha National Parks), plus Kilimanjaro National Park for trekkers, and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. All of these places are easily reached by road or air, and heavily visited, with a range of facilities. Apart from the evocative landscapes, the main attractions are the high concentrations, diversity and accessibility of the wildlife.
The southern protected areas (Ruaha National Park and Selous Game Reserve, plus Mikumi, Udzungwa Mountains and Kitulo parks) receive considerable attention, but still don’t see the number of visitors that the north does. The wildlife, however, is just as impressive, although it’s often spread out over larger areas. At Udzungwa Mountains and Kitulo, the main highlights are botanical.
In the west are Mahale Mountains and Gombe National Parks, where the main draws are the chimpanzees and (for Mahale) the remoteness. Katavi is also remote, and offers a wonderful opportunity to experience real wilderness. Rubondo Island National Park is set on its own in Lake Victoria, and is of particular interest for birding. Saadani, just north of Dar es Salaam, is the only terrestrial national park along the coast. Mkomazi, just off the Arusha–Tanga highway near Same, hosts a private sanctuary for black rhinos.
National Parks
Tanzania’s national parks are managed by the Tanzania National Parks Authority.
Park entry fees range from US$30 to US$100 per adult per single entry per 24-hour period, depending on the park (US$10 to US$20 per child per single entry per 24 hours for children between five and 16 years of age), with Serengeti, Kilimanjaro, Mahale Mountains and Gombe parks the most expensive, and Mkomazi, Saadani, Mikumi, Udzungwa Mountains, Kitulo, Katavi and Rubondo Island parks the least expensive. The single-entry requirement means that it is not possible to exit a park and re-enter within 24 hours unless you pay entry fees again.
Park camping fees are US$30 per adult (US$5 per child) in public campsites and US$50 per adult (US$10 per child) in special campsites. Other costs include guide fees of US$20 to US$25 per group for walking safaris, plus vehicle fees (US$40 per foreign-registered vehicle and Tsh20,000 for Tanzania-registered vehicles). Note that a value-added tax (VAT) of 18% is applied to all park fees, including park entry, camping, guide and vehicle fees.
At all parks, all fees must be paid electronically with a Visa card or MasterCard. Especially at more remote parks, it is also advisable to bring cash, just in case the card machines are not working.
The Mpingo Conservation & Development Initiative (www.mpingoconservation.org) and the African Blackwood Conservation Project (www.blackwoodconservation.org) are working to conserve mpingo (East African Blackwood) – Tanzania’s national tree, and one of the main woods used in carvings.
Wildlife Reserves
Wildlife reserves are administered by the Tanzania Wildlife Management Authority (TAWA; www.tawa.go.tz). Fees must be paid in advance, either through your lodge or tented camp or at any NBC bank branch. Selous Game Reserve is the only reserve with tourist infrastructure. Large areas of most others have been leased as hunting concessions, as has the southern Selous.
Marine Parks & Reserves
Mafia Island Marine Park, Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park, Tanga Coelacanth Marine Park, Maziwe Marine Reserve and the Dar es Salaam Marine Reserves (Mbudya, Bongoyo, Pangavini and Fungu Yasini islands) are under the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Natural Resources & Tourism’s Marine Parks & Reserves Unit (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%022-215 0621; www.marineparks.go.tz; Olympio St, Upanga; 
h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri). Except for Mafia Island Marine Park, which accepts credit card only, entry fees for marine parks (US$20 per day per adult, US$10 per child) and marine reserves (US$10 per adult, US$5 per child) are payable in cash only.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area
The Ngorongoro Conservation Area was established as a multiple-use area to protect wildlife and the pastoralist lifestyle of the Maasai, who had lost other large areas of their traditional territory with the formation of Serengeti National Park. It is administered by the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority. It is notable both for its superlative wildlife watching in the Ngorongoro Crater and for its rugged hiking in the surrounding highlands. Payment for entering the conservation area must be made with Visa or MasterCard, although it is advisable to bring cash as well.
Major National Parks & Reserves
| Park | Features | Activities | Best time to visit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Arusha NP | Mt Meru, lakes & crater; zebras, giraffes, elephants | trekking, canoe & vehicle safaris, walking | year-round |
| Gombe NP | lake shore, forest; chimpanzees | chimp tracking | Jun-Oct |
| Katavi NP | flood plains, lakes & woodland; buffaloes, hippos, antelope | vehicle & walking safaris | Jun-Oct |
| Kilimanjaro NP | Mt Kilimanjaro | trekking, cultural activities on lower slopes | Jun-Oct, Dec-Feb |
| Kitulo NP | highland plateau; wildflowers & wilderness | hiking & horse riding | Dec-Apr (for wildflowers), Sep-Nov (for hiking) |
| Lake Manyara NP | Lake Manyara; hippos, water birds, elephants | vehicle safaris, walking, cycling & cultural activities, night drives | Jun-Feb (Dec-Apr for birding) |
| Mahale Mountains NP | remote lake shore & mountains; chimpanzees | chimp tracking | Jun-Oct, Dec-Feb |
| Mikumi NP | Mkata flood plains; lions, buffaloes, giraffes, elephants | vehicle safaris, short walks | year-round |
| Mkomazi NP | semi-arid savannah; black rhinos & wild dogs (neither viewable by the general public), wonderful birding | vehicle safaris, short walks | Jun-Mar |
| Ngorongoro Conservation Area | Ngorongoro Crater; black rhinos, lions, elephants, zebras, flamingos | vehicle safaris, hiking | Jun-Feb |
| Ruaha NP | Ruaha River, sand rivers; elephants, hippos, kudus, antelope, birds | vehicle & walking safaris | Jun-Oct for wildlife, Dec-Apr for birding |
| Rubondo Island NP | Lake Victoria; birds, sitatungas, chimps | short walks, boating, fishing | Jun-Feb |
| Saadani NP | Wami River, beach; birds, hippos, crocodiles, elephants | vehicle safaris, short boat trips, short walks | Jun-Feb |
| Selous GR | Rufiji River, lakes, woodland; elephants, hippos, wild dogs, black rhinos, birds | boat, walking & vehicle safaris | Jun-Dec |
| Serengeti NP | plains & grasslands, Grumeti River; wildebeest, zebras, lions, cheetahs, giraffes | vehicle, walking & balloon safaris; walks & cultural activities in border areas | year-round |
| Tarangire NP | Tarangire River, woodland, baobabs; elephants, zebras, wildebeest, birds | vehicle safaris & night drives; walks, night drives & cultural activities in border areas | Jun-Oct |
| Udzungwa Mountains NP | Udzungwa Mountains, forest; primates, birds | hiking | Jun-Oct |
Environmental Issues
Although Tanzania has one of the highest proportions of protected land of any African country (about 40% is protected in some form), limited resources and corruption hamper conservation efforts, and poaching, erosion, soil degradation, desertification and deforestation whittle away at the natural wealth. According to some estimates, Tanzania loses 3500 sq km of forest land annually as a result of agricultural and commercial clearing, and about 95% of the tropical high forest that once covered Zanzibar and Pemba Islands is now gone. Poaching has increased markedly in both the northern circuit parks and in Selous Game Reserve due to corruption, increased demand and insufficient enforcement. This, combined with inappropriate visitor use, especially in the northern circuit, is a serious threat to wildlife and ecosystems.
In one of the most high-profile cases to date, Selous Game Reserve – a Unesco World Heritage site – is in danger of being de-listed due to government plans to go ahead with construction of a large dam and hydroelectric power project at Stiegler's Gorge on the Rufiji River. Part of the reserve's southern sector has already been de-gazetted due to uranium mining in the area.
Urban pollution is another serious concern, as the populations of major cities continue to expand without proper sewage treatment plants and air pollution controls. In Dar es Salaam it is estimated that the sewerage system – which drains in part into the sea – covers less than 15% of households. Air pollution, too, is a concern, with ever-increasing vehicle numbers, often poor-quality fuel and inadequate emissions controls.
In coastal areas, dynamite fishing remains a problem, although progress has been made. Mafia Isand Marine Park, for example, was created in 1995 in major part to curb dynamite fishing and other unsustainable fishing practices. Since its creation, dynamite fishing in the area has been largely eliminated, and the park has achieved considerable progress in promoting conservation measures alongside sustainable resource use by local communities.
On the positive side, there's growing involvement of communities directly in conservation, and local communities are now stakeholders in a number of lodges and other tourist developments. Zanzibar Island's Chumbe Island Coral Park is a good example, illustrating what long-term collaboration with local fishing communities can achieve in terms of conservation and environmental education. Manyara Ranch Conservancy is another example. Here, a collaborative relationship has been established in which the local Maasai communities are involved in and benefit from wildlife conservation.
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL IN TANZANIA
Tourism is big business in Tanzania. Here are a few guidelines for minimising strain on the local environment:
ASupport local enterprise.
ABuy souvenirs directly from those who make them.
AChoose safari or trek operators that treat local communities as equal partners and that are committed to protecting local ecosystems.
AFor cultural attractions, try to pay fees directly to the locals involved, rather than to tour-company guides or other intermediaries.
AAsk permission before photographing people.
ADon’t buy items made from ivory, skin, shells etc.
ASave natural resources.
ARespect local culture and customs.