Abla’s
LEBANESE
109 ELGIN STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9347 0006 • MAP P.285
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $2.50 A HEAD
OPEN MON–WED & SAT 6PM–11PM, THURS & FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $15, MAINS $26, DESSERTS $4, BANQUETS $55
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Abla Amad is a big name on the Lebanese scene. An accomplished cook and restaurateur, she opened Abla’s in 1979 and launched a recipe book in 2001. High-quality food is an integral aspect of the Abla brand. Almost every imaginable dish is available: from dips (hummus and baba ghanoush) to pastries (‘ladies fingers’ filled with minced lamb, pine nuts and spices) and hot dishes (kafta and kibbe – minced lamb and cracked wheat stuffed with spiced meat and pine nuts). Vegetarians won’t be disappointed with her warm silverbeet rolls of rice, chickpeas, tomato, onion and spices, the green beans marinated in a tangy tomato sauce, or any of the other veg options. A good way to sample them all is to try the banquet offered on Fridays and Saturdays. Then sit back and enjoy the hustle and bustle coming out of the women-only kitchen. You can tell Abla’s formula of traditional food and friendly surroundings is a winner just by how hard it is to get a table here – make sure you book ahead.
Alpha Ouzeri
GREEK
342 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9078 0582 • MAP P.285
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $7 A BOTTLE
OPEN TUES–SUN NOON–10PM
ENTREES $6.50–$19.50, MAINS $18.50–$55
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Unless you’re Greek, your first encounter with ouzo was probably in a UDL. But at Alpha Ouzeri on Brunswick Street, the anise aperitif is served in knockbacks with ice – just as it is in the old country. Your physicist friends will delight in deciphering why the clear spirit turns white when served with ice, while you’ll just get boisterous if you don’t watch its potency. Ouzo is of course best drunk slowly, in a group, over mezedes: three or four friends or more make for a most convivial atmosphere. The menu at this modern ouzeri ranges from ubiquitous but delicious homemade dips through sardines to kid goat and beyond. Seafood is done particularly well here – and lovingly. And, if you want to really embrace the ouzo vibe, there’s garides saganaki – pan-fried king prawns with tomato and chilli sauce, ouzo and feta. Book ahead for Friday and Saturday nights, when the restaurant is loud and crowded, as all good Greek parties are.
Añada
SPANISH
197 GERTRUDE STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9415 6101 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN MON–THURS 6PM–LATE, FRI–SUN NOON–LATE
ENTREES $3.50–$13, MAINS $9.50–$30, DESSERTS $12
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
In need of a soft kiss from the shores of southern Spain? Añada is an authentic Spanish spot seducing patrons from all sides of town. The husband and wife team serves up much more than the predictable paella in a cosy and convivial space that blurs the line between bar and restaurant. The mixture of seating creates an informal atmosphere with a choice of regular tables at the front, stools at the copper-topped bar, high tables for two along the wall or a large communal table down the back. Adopt the sharing ethos and choose from a selection of tapas (single serves) and raciones (larger serves). To kickstart the tastebuds try the stuffed calamari with sumac or, for a more hedonistic affair, indulge in the braised rabbit legs with cocoa and dried peppers and peas. The desserts are simply delectable and the drinks are divine. With an impressive line-up of Spanish wines, beers and sherries, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were living in the land of sun and siestas. Be sure to book ahead.
Balzari
ITALIAN
130 LYGON STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9639 9383 • MAP P.286
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $8 A BOTTLE
OPEN TUES–FRI NOON–LATE, SAT & SUN 9.30AM–LATE
ENTREES $9–$22, MAINS $25–$39, DESSERTS $12–$17
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Balzari has been delighting foodies and lovers of Mediterranean cuisine since 2004, when owner Simon Balzary opened his elegant and rather down-to-earth bistro on the lively Lygon Street strip. A couple of years later, Joel Valvasori-Pereza took on the job of head chef and brought with him his northern Italian flair. The rest, they say, is history and Balzari is fast becoming a local institution. The pasta, which is homemade each day, draws in the crowds. Guests can enjoy ravioli filled with porcini mushrooms and housemade ricotta or tender potato gnocchi with cavolo nero and ricotta salata. If pasta doesn’t tickle your fancy, why not try one of the hearty mains, such as duck with green lentils and pancetta? Wash it all down with any of the classy Australian and northern Italian wines on offer. At Balzari, only three things seem to matter: that there is good food, that there is good wine and that everyone can enjoy a relaxed, memorable experience. On all fronts, Simon Balzary and his genial, attentive team are able to deliver.
Birdman Eating
CONTEMPORARY
238 GERTRUDE STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9416 4747 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 7.30AM–10.30PM, SAT & SUN 8AM–10.30PM
SHARE PLATES $7.50–$19, DESSERTS $5.50–$19.50
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
The growing collection of bird-named venues in this town might seem like an avian invasion, but it’s good to know that Birdman Eating is more golden egg than goose. Cafe restaurant by day, tapas bar by night, this small shopfront diner provides share or selfish dining from an unusual tapas menu and a well-matched Mediterranean-inspired wine list. Staples such as zucchini and feta fritters, haloumi and pork belly are freshly prepared in the kitchen out back, but it’s the specials board that really surprises. And, while their concoctions don’t always work, you have to appreciate a chef’s adventurous spirit. Slow roast and sous-vide appear regularly on the menu, producing many a melt-in-your-mouth moment. Dessert is a particular highlight here, with modern gourmet interpretations of Australian classics such the humble lamington and the Violet Crumble. Its proximity for late-night dancing makes Birdman Eating perfect for lovebirds in search of a good time. Grouse!
Blue Chillies
MALAYSIAN
182 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9417 0071 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN MON–THURS NOON–3.30PM, 6PM–10.30PM, FRI & SAT NOON–3.30PM, 6PM–11PM, SUN NOON–3.30PM, 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $4–$14.50, MAINS $11–$28, DESSERTS $6.90–$10.80
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Now in operation for twelve years, Blue Chillies has become synonymous with Brunswick Street culture. This modern Malaysian restaurant has a simple yet distinctive atmosphere that draws patrons back time and again, year after year. The furnishings are a workable mix of old and new, with dark wooden tables strewn across polished concrete floors. The pigeonhole-style shelving, filled with pots and produce, projects an earthy aroma that crosses over to the food. Footsore shoppers are known to flock here for the laksas but the menu offers a number of likely addictions. To start, try the lohbak (spiced chicken mince in beancurd skin), followed by a selection of rice, noodle, curry and vegetable dishes to share. Or choose from the chef’s specials to tuck into fancier feasts like the tender thrice-cooked duck in a tangy ginger and lemongrass gravy. The staff are on hand to answer any questions or just to twist your arm with a selection of coconutty and palm sugary desserts. Yum.
The Brandon Hotel
CONTEMPORARY
237 STATION STREET, CARLTON NORTH
(03) 9347 2382 • MAP P.287
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SUN NOON–3PM, 6PM–9.30PM
ENTREES $15–$18, MAINS $29–$38, DESSERTS $12–$17
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
On a quiet corner in North Carlton, away from the busyness and hype of Lygon Street, lies a wonderful secret just waiting to be discovered. The facade of the Brandon Hotel welcomes you, like many old buildings, with its solid, comforting, timeworn presence. The front still operates as a local pub. But the best secrets are always hidden in the back. The back of this local pub has been renovated into a lovely, sophisticated dining room. The decor is quite sombre, almost severe, yet it achieves a simple elegance that’s welcoming. The service is exceptional. The staff are thoughtful, with a solid knowledge of the menu, and can offer subtle insights depending on your preferences. The menu, though not vast, caters to every taste. This is not pub food, however. Gourmet ingredients are handled expertly to produce dishes that taste wonderful. The desserts are just as good. In fact, choosing is a serious dilemma. But, if you’re lucky and dine with good friends, you might get to try more than one dish.
Charcoal Lane
CONTEMPORARY
136 GERTRUDE STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9418 3400 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SAT 10AM–10.30PM
ENTREES $16–$30, MAINS $25–$39, DESSERTS $16–$17
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Though Melbourne is one of the most multicultural cities in the world, our indigenous cuisine only very recently found its way into our local dining scene. Set up by Mission Australia, Aboriginal-influenced Charcoal Lane is fine dining with a social conscience – providing Aboriginal and disadvantaged young people with supported experience in the hospitality industry. But there is nothing down-at-heel about dining here. Located in an imposing bluestone building, Charcoal Lane is decidedly modern. The restaurant is open and airy, and sparsely decorated, and the service is professional and knowledgeable. Cocktails are served with an indigenous twist – try wattleseed in your espresso martini or lemon myrtle in your whisky sour. Entrees come in the form of ‘social beginnings’ – a meat-heavy antipasto share plate – and fairly fishy options (with liberal expressions of bush tomato). Mains include rare kangaroo, tender rabbit and heirloom vegetables. There’s a bit of faddish experimentation taking place in the kitchen too: you’ll encounter various soils, creams and foams across the menu, but it’s the innovative use of little-known native vegetables and spices that really delights.
TOP 10 DINNER AND DRINKS WITH YOUR MATES WITH YOUR MATES
LOOKING TO HAVE A FEW AND SOME DINNER TOO? MELBOURNE HAS YOU COVERED WHEN YOU WANT TO DRINK AND DINE.
The Deanery
13 BLIGH PLACE, MELBOURNE
(03) 9629 5599
LICENSED
OPEN MON–THURS 11.30AM–10PM, FRI 11.30AM–11PM,
SAT 5PM–11PM
ENTREES $3.50–$23, MAINS $20–$36, DESSERTS $4–$13
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
With the city’s biggest cellar out the back (The Deanery cellars for a number of nearby restaurants) you’re guaranteed to find a drop to suit every palate in your group, and to accompany the delectable charcuterie, slow roasts and braises.
Sometimes only chicken fried three ways will do. These occasions should naturally be accompanied by old mates and a tabletop keg of Korean beer. And kimchi.
Whether your posse is big or small there’s room for you at Little Creatures’s enormous Melbourne dining hall. Go solo with fish and chips or lamb shanks, or share a gourmet pizza or ploughman’s board.
The new Mexican in town loves a tequila with her tacos, and you will too. A seat can be difficult to snare, so arrive early. Or late – Mamasita doesn’t hit the sack until 2am.
Great drinks and a selection of bargain tapas hit the spot at this former backyard vodka distillery, now adorned with sexy pin-ups for randy drinkers of all persuasions.
Casual yet sophisticated, the Panama does solid European fare using local ingredients. The mushroom gnocchi is a rich and filling winner. There are three menus for group diners and counter meals in the bar.
Set in historic vaults beneath Federation Square, Riverland’s deck now sprawls along the river’s edge. The outdoor barbecue serves gourmet duck and pork and fennel sausages with sauerkraut. A sizzling drinking and dining experience in all weather conditions.
Enjoy a lush, late night out at this Melbourne institution offering an extensive wine list and classy edible accompaniments until the early hours. Upstairs, Siglo is the prime spot for a cocktail with friends.
Private booths in the Toff’s in-house caboose are highly coveted, so gather your posse and snare a seat early. Personal service is just a button away, as is a range of snacks and drinks that’ll get you through the night in fine style.
Von Haus is a small house but good things come in small packages. The space is intimate and your choices are limited to just three mains done superbly, so limit your company to the same for best results.
Cocoro
JAPANESE
117 SMITH STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9419 5216 • MAP P.
LICENSED
OPEN WED–SUN 5.30PM–9.30PM
ENTREES $3.50–$14.50, MAINS $10.50–$36, DESSERTS $7–$10
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Part pottery store, part cafe, Cocoro is on the quirky side, but somehow the tiny restaurant makes it work; the pottery-lined walls and artisan crockery certainly make the dining experience a visual treat. Cocoro serves up healthy home-style Japanese cooking with a focus on fresh and organic produce. The menu strikes a balance between the traditional – think miso soup, agedashi tofu and fried teriyaki chicken – and the more unusual, such as grilled onigiri, Japanese antipasto and a green tea parfait. Portions are small but satisfying, and all dishes are light and subtly flavoured, letting the quality of the ingredients and skill of the chef shine through. Vegans and vegetarians are looked after – beancurd lovers will enjoy the homemade organic tsururi tofu served on ice. Sushi and sashimi plates are also available. Cocoro is a calm environment best suited to couples or very small groups. Because of the relaxing atmosphere and high quality of the food, eating at Cocoro always feels like a treat. But for a little more indulgence, the sake tasting is highly recommended.
The Commoner
BRITISH
122 JOHNSTON STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9415 6876 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN WED & THURS 6PM–LATE, FRI–SUN NOON–3PM, 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $3–$14, MAINS $13–$30, DESSERTS $3–$12
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Melbourne might have laneways full of wonderful surprises, but in Fitzroy some of the best dining places are right on the main thoroughfare; they just aren’t necessarily flashing large neon signs saying ‘come in here’. Often such discreetness is a sign of simple, dignified food and service, and this is certainly true of the Commoner. The restaurant sits between row houses, awaiting its guests quietly with candlelit wooden tables, simple, almost Scandinavian decor and beautiful floral arrangements. It feels somewhat enchanted. The food draws from a ‘true’ British cuisine, one that has been influenced by the return of travellers from far and wide, so their standard roast might be lifted by Mediterranean or North African spices. The menu reads luxuriously so go for a few of the small dishes to start, such as Richard’s surprise peppers, the scotch egg, fancy salad or the cheese croquette over creamed leeks. On Sunday nights there’s no menu – they simply feed you – and if you’re a fan of this option, they’re happy to oblige on other days too.
Cutler & Co.
EUROPEAN
55–57 GERTRUDE STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9419 4888 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–THURS & SAT 6PM–MIDNIGHT, FRI & SUN NOON–MIDNIGHT
ENTREES $20–$25, MAINS $37–$47, DESSERTS $16–$22, DEGUSTATION $140
VISA, MC, AMEX
Located at the slightly less inhabited end of Fitzroy’s cooler-than-thou Gertrude Street, Cutler & Co. is Cumulus chef Andrew McConnell’s much-congratulated fresh-and-local fine-dining venture. You may need to sacrifice a digit or two for a booking, so it’s worth making a night of it – although the bar will probably be crammed with harried doctors just off shift at St Vincent’s Hospital, wearing odd shoes and downing cocktails. The fit-out at Cutler & Co. is uber-modern – giant vacuum-tube and metal cloud light fittings, hints of blue neon and warm parquetry floors. The staff are every bit as attentive as you’d expect, and a sommelier appears out of nowhere every three minutes. Everyone shrieks when you mention the filthy words ‘molecular gastronomy’, but frozen corn powder in hot soup couldn’t be much else. Despite this occasional experimentation, the food is everything food should be: topnotch ingredients treated with love, competence and imagination.
De Los Santos
SPANISH
175 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9417 1567 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT 6PM–LATE, SUN NOON–3PM, 6PM–LATE TAPAS $11–$16, PAELLA $22–$26 A PERSON, DESSERTS $9–$18
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Is it written as law that Spanish food must be accompanied by the music of the Gipsy Kings? Not that there’s anything wrong with a little flamenco guitar when you’re chowing down on plates of tasty tapas or sipping a glass of tempranillo (the by-the-glass list at De Los Santos has some good Spanish drops as well as local wines). A friendly and fun waitress suggests that choosing two plates each is a good starting point and then offers her favourites: spinach and cheese croquettes and the gambas al jerez (grilled prawns with chilli, garlic and sherry butter sauce). Both are excellent, and along with ablondigas (lamb meatballs in an almond sherry sauce) and a special of piquillo peppers stuffed with feta, are plenty, even for a duo of hungry diners. Especially if you want to fit in dessert. The churros come with a none-too-sweet chocolate dipping sauce and the crema catalana has a divine hint of orange. The bluestone building is a characterful charmer too, making De Los Santos the whole package.
DOC
ITALIAN
295 DRUMMOND STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9347 2998 • MAP P.285
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $6
OPEN MON–THURS 5.30PM–LATE, FRI–SUN NOON–LATE
ENTREES $12–$16.50, MAINS $15.90–$24.50, DESSERTS $9.90, TASTING MENU $39
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
With a focus on quality organic ingredients, DOC ain’t your everyday pizza joint. In fact, it’s a hip pizza and mozzarella bar that looks oh so appealing, especially when compared to the more staid Italian restaurants nearby. Despite its varied service, the place is always heaving, showing that DOC has hit its mark with its super-cool Carlton clientele. The seasonally changing menu appears small but foodies will have trouble making their choices. A first course of mozzarella, including Australian fior di latte or DOP Italian buffalo, can be accompanied by speck, bresaola or white Sardinian anchovies and shaved fennel. The pizzas, from the humble olive oil and sea salt focaccia to the amazing pizza ai porcini with wild mushrooms and truffle oil, are always heavenly – light, crisp and piled to perfection with complementary toppings. If you can’t decide, tasting plates abound, including antipasto and mozzarella plates. The dessert pizza is an acquired taste, but classic tiramisu and a range of gelato are also available. It’s good food, made to be shared – DOC is not the place for solo dining.
Easy Tiger
THAI
96 SMITH STREET, COLLINGWOOD
(03) 9417 2373 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SUN 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $4–$18, MAINS $28–$32, DESSERTS $14, BANQUETS $60–$65
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
If you’re on the prowl for something out of the ordinary, Easy Tiger is purrfect. In the heart of the bohemian jungle, this modern take on Thai finds inspiration in hawker food, but is a far cry from the grungy streets of Bangkok, or from Collingwood for that matter. Instead, it offers a sleek, modern setting in a long, thin room, a courtyard out the back, and a cosy leaf-green banquette in the window with a view to diners on communal tables. Think smart-casual dining at a much slower pace. It’s subtle, refined and elegant – just like the food. Try daring dishes like crunchy ma hor (prawn, pork and chicken mince cooked in palm sugar, served on fresh watermelon) and the yellow curry of spring bay mussels with fresh lychees and basil. There are also traditional twists like son-in-law eggs, which attentive and well-turned-out staff encourage you to crack and mix into your rice. Excellent service and superb food – it’s enough to make your belly growl.
El Gaucho
ARGENTINIAN
454 NICHOLSON STREET, FITZROY NORTH
(03) 9482 7447 • MAP P.287
LICENSED
OPEN WED–SUN 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $3.50–$16, MAINS $18–$35, DESSERTS $6–$8.50, ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT $26 (WED, THURS, SUN)
VISA, MC, EFTPOS
Meat lovers beware. Vegetarians don’t even dare. The Argentinian obsession with parilla (charcoal grill) is the stuff of legends. So it seems fitting that this friendly family-run hot spot has been named after South American freedom fighter El Gaucho. Why? Because you’ll be fighting for air here. Pungent smoky barbecue scents hit you way before you’ve even set foot inside, where various cuts of beef and spicy chorizo sausages are already sizzling into action. The ‘hot rocks’, however, must be seen to be believed. A beastly stoneware plate delivered to your table with an inch-and-a-half-thick slab of buttery-soft steak, cooking right in front of you. Wall-Mounted TVs pulsate with catchy Latin American ditties, while Argentinian memorabilia and maps attempt to fill the ample dining space, which gets bustling during any notable soccer event. There are also yummy traditional staples like empanadas and Portuguese-style chicken. Phew! El Gaucho requires some belt adjusting. Finish your meal, and you’ll be a legend.
Embrasse
FRENCH
312 DRUMMOND STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9347 3312 • MAP P.285
LICENSED
OPEN WED 6.30PM–11PM, THURS–SUN NOON-2PM, 6.30PM–11PM
ENTREES $20-$24, MAINS $33-$43, DESSERTS $18-$35
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
On a quiet corner, away from Carlton’s Little Italy hubbub of restaurant spruikers, student share houses and cinemagoers, sits Embrasse, whose short stint in the restaurant world has already earned it several high-end nods, including Savour’s Best Chef and Best European Restaurant 2010. Easy to see why. It’s got all the right elements for a modern French dining experience – a hint of the traditional mixed with a youthful brand of cool. Terrazzo-style flooring and modern, super-mod chrome candelabra light fittings lift the warm designer feel, while Parisian cafe–style furniture hints at a place where old-world casual meets modern sophistication. Chef Nicholas Poelaert is at the helm of this venture. He began training at a Michelinstar restaurant in France at the age of fourteen, moving up the ranks and receiving lofty accolades and awards along the way. His food reflects this experience. Try the pork belly entree – braised ‘black pig’ lightly smoked, served with organic jersey milk, burnt carrot and figs – or the blue cod served with beans, blue potato and sesame honey.
Esposito
SEAFOOD
162 ELGIN STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9347 9838 • MAP P.285
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $15 A BOTTLE
OPEN MON–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–11PM, SAT 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $21–$26, MAINS $36–$42, DESSERTS $5–$19
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Don’t be deterred from Esposito if you don’t eat fish. Quail, duck and steak will keep you amused, but you’ll be missing out on some of Melbourne’s best seafood. The site’s previous tenant, Carlton’s iconic Toofey’s, left some big fishy shoes to fill and Maurice Esposito, owner and executive chef, met the challenge with an uncompromising attitude to freshness and sustainability. Only sustainable species are served and all suppliers catch their fish using the Japanese iki-jime technique. Sounding very much like an ancient martial art, iki-jime minimises stress and maximises quality. Schoolbooks aside, their food tastes fantastic. Supported by locally grown produce, each dish has a delicate flavour balance. Think dill and nasturtium flavoured pasta with Bay bugs, or rock flathead fillets with basil gnocchi, handpicked mud crab, tomato and preserved lemon salad. Something about Esposito is refined and calming. Possibly the food, maybe the reasonably priced wine, but likely the muted colours of the dining room, with enough blue to evoke seaside visions, and no seashells in sight.
Gigibaba
TURKISH
102 SMITH STREET, COLLINGWOOD
(03) 9486 0345 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–FRI 6PM–11PM, SAT & SUN 11AM–4PM, 6PM–11PM
SMALL DISHES $5–$15, LARGE DISHES $14–$18, DESSERTS $6–$8
NO BOOKINGS
VISA, MC, EFTPOS
Situated at the gastronomic end of Smith Street, Gigibaba delivers classical Turkish mezze in a strip populated by Japanese and European eateries, making it a welcome addition. It is also one of the restaurants in Melbourne that have adopted the ‘no bookings’ policy, and its popularity means that if you are keen on eating here, it’s best to get in early, or you’ll be left waiting in the cold for quite some time. The hype has died down since its opening a few years ago, but Ismail Tosun’s food has not changed. Tosun takes traditional dishes and melds them with the new without much difficulty or dissonance. Expect to have exceptionally silky hummus with smoky, chargrilled kebabs, dolmades made with zucchini flowers or squab rubbed in cinnamon and Antep chilli with a beetroot and hazelnut salad. The best option is to ask the staff to just feed you – let them know if you’re vegetarian; they’re quite accommodating. Just be wary that with small dishes, the prices can pile up quickly.
The Grace Darling Hotel
GASTROPUB
114 SMITH STREET, COLLINGWOOD
(03) 9416 0055 • MAP P.284
WWW.THEGRACEDARLINGHOTEL.COM.AU
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–THURS 6PM–10PM, FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–10.30PM, SAT 6PM–10.30PM, SUN NOON–3PM, 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $8–$23, MAINS $19–$42, DESSERTS $9–$12
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Can anyone actually eat a 750-gram rib eye? If the quality of the Grace Darling’s T-bone special, served alongside a frisee, grape and walnut salad with horseradish dressing, is any indication then you’d have a fair crack. This beautiful old bluestone pub, first opened in 1854 (making it Melbourne’s second-oldest), was given a spruce a couple of years back and it’s a treat. The restaurant is in two retro-chic rooms: one at the building’s edge and another out the back in a sunny atrium studded with pot plants – perfect for Sunday lunch. The cuisine is certainly better than average, using seasonal produce and matched to a boutique wine list. Starters run the gamut from antipasto platters (including one for vegetarians) to more-ish piquillo peppers stuffed with salt cod. Mains are traditional with a twist. The chicken parma is a chargrilled thigh fillet, topped with jamon, slowroasted tomatoes, parmesan and breadcrumbs and baked in a terracotta dish. Not surprisingly, it’s a buzzing spot, with a blend of Collingwood hipsters and those who just appreciate a fantastic, relaxed meal.
Hotel Lincoln
GASTROPUB
91 CARDIGAN STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9347 4666 • MAP P.286
LICENSED
OPEN SUN–THURS NOON–11PM, FRI & SAT NOON–MIDNIGHT
ENTREES $16–$19, MAINS $27–$38, DESSERTS $14
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
There’s so much buzz surrounding Lygon Street you’d almost be forgiven for not exploring Carlton’s side streets. Almost. To make up for any oversight, go find the Lincoln. From its clean-lined art deco design and gallery space supporting local artists to its friendly staff, you’re bound to feel comfortable here. Because of the strong, tasty flavours of the food and an incredible selection of drinks, it’s a good idea to come on an empty stomach and with some time to spare – you’ll want to enjoy as much of the menu as possible. The steamed mussels, jamon Serrano, wagyu bresaola, chicken liver parfait with cornichons, and duck rillettes with port wine prunes are just some of the options not to miss. With all its warmth and familiarity, not to mention the outstanding food and service, this is the kind of pub that you’d want to consider your local. And Lygon Street? It’ll feel a million miles away.
TOP 10 HYBRID DINING
‘MULTI-FUNCTION VENUE’ DOESN’T HAVE TO MEAN POTS, POKIES, PARMAS AND HENS PARTIES. THESE INNOVATIVE HYBRIDS MELD SERVICE WITH SUSTENANCE AND STYLE.
1000 £ Bend
361 LITTLE LONSDALE STREET, MELBOURNE • (03) 9247 6606
• WWW.THOUSANDPOUNDBEND.COM.AU • UNLICENSED •
OPEN MON–FRI 8AM–7PM, SAT & SUN 11AM–7PM • ENTREES
$4–$5.50, MAINS $7–$12, DESSERTS $4 •
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Join the cool kids and take advantage of the free wireless while you sip on a latte or snack on a toastie late into the night. There’s also a cinema upstairs, and the enormous back room regularly plays host to events.
Captains of Industry
LEVEL 1, 2 SOMERSET PLACE, MELBOURNE • (03) 9642 5013 •
WWW.CAPTAINSOFINDUSTRY.COM.AU • UNLICENSED • OPEN
MON–FRI 8AM–5PM, SAT & SUN 10AM–5PM • BREAKFASTS
$4.50–$8, LUNCHES $9–$13, DESSERTS $4.50 • CASH ONLY
Fine coffee and free wireless attract the city creatives to this très cool cafe, where you can also take in some art, get a haircut, and have your clothes tailored to fit.
Its wall of wines will have you wishing this was your local bottleshop. For a $15 surcharge, you can drink your purchase in store – perhaps over their famous tuna nicoise.
Disco Beans
238 HIGH STREET, NORTHCOTE • (03) 9077 4772 •
WWW.GALLERY.DISCOBEANS.COM • LICENSED •
OPEN TUES–SUN 6PM–9.30PM • ENTREES $3.50–$12,
MAINS $8.50–$14.50, DESSERTS $9–$11 • ALL MAJOR CARDS
ACCEPTED
Dining here is like participating in the artwork that covers the walls from floor to ceiling. Part gallery, part performance space, this vegan-friendly eatery provides a dining experience you won’t easily forget.
Fitzroy Bowling Club
578 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY NORTH • (03) 9481 3137 •
WWW.FVBOWLS.COM.AU • LICENSED • OPEN THURS & FRI
3PM–8PM • MAINS $5–$10 • ALL MAJOR CARDS
ACCEPTED
Gone are the silent greens of blue rinse and terry towelling; today lawn bowls is played barefoot – with beers on the sidelines and good honest counter meals that won’t break the bank.
Little Mule
19 SOMERSET PLACE, MELBOURNE • (03) 9670 4904 •
WWW.THELITTLEMULE.COM • UNLICENSED • OPEN
MON–FRI 7.30AM–4PM, SAT 9AM–3.30PM • ENTREES $2.50–$7, MAINS
$7.50–$10, DESSERTS $3–$4 • CASH ONLY
Custom makers of fixies and purveyors of quality crema, the multi-tasking men of Little Mule can fix you a bike with flair and a roast beef roll to boot.
Dine on a sea of delicious dumplings from crystal prawn to chocolate with ice cream, then take away the tea or tableware.
Browse the antiques or take a booth for a yum cha sitting of velvety dumplings with a fiery dipping sauce. You may even want to take a piece of this charming place with you and enjoy it at home.
Self Preservation
70 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE • (03) 9650 0523 •
LICENSED • OPEN MON & SUN 7.30AM–5PM, TUES–SAT
7.30AM–10PM • ENTREES $5–$10, MAINS $6.50–$16,
DESSERTS $1–$4 • ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Part jewellery store, part art gallery, Self Preservation is also a light fine diner. Choose from the available antipasti in the window, relax with a local wine and maybe leave with a ring on your finger.
Browse the racks of second-hand records and CDs, celebrate your purchases with a cocktail and stay for the full 12” share platter by the fire or in the leafy courtyard out back.
Huxtable
CONTEMPORARY
131 SMITH STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9419 5101 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SUN NOON–11PM
BITES $3.50–$8, TO SHARE $9–$25, DESSERTS $3–$15
VISA, MC, AMEX, DINERS
Of the new kids on Melbourne’s new block, Huxtable’s the hottest. Exposed brick and bucket chairs resonate with Generation X as much as the sitcom namesake, but the food draws all ages. Daniel Wilson, previously of Arintji and the Graham, skilfully darts from tempura to dukkah, an anticategory that’s wowed his most important critics – peers – making Huxtable the preferred off-duty venue of industry professionals. Fortunately, unpretentious staff steer mere culinary mortals through the menu. ‘Bites’ are individual, with jalapeno and cheddar croquettes and filo lamb puttanesca unanimous favourites. ‘To Share’ splits into sea, land and earth and, after three Bites, one dish easily satisfies two. Korean barbecue pork ribs pack a spicy punch and are justifiably a menu-stayer in a rotating selection. Good grazing requires good drinking. The wine list trips around the globe with spectacular results and Huxtabrew is a fun on-tap lager. It’s easy to get carried away here but don’t miss dessert. Adventurous plays on flavour usually succeed but the icecream sandwich is a delicious way to finish and, appropriately, very ’80s.
Jorg
EUROPEAN
203 ST GEORGES ROAD, FITZROY NORTH
(03) 9482 3002 • MAP P.287
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SUN 11AM–LATE
ENTREES $3.50–$15.50, MAINS $26–$33.50, DESSERTS $9–$18, DEGUSTATION $57–$95
VISA, MC, AMEX
When the head chef of Jacques Reymond and sous chef of Church Street Enoteca teamed up to open Jorg in 2010, the foodie public had only one question: could it live up to the promise? Looks like it can. The room’s high ceilings, heavy timber beams and slab floor boast industrial cool, but the space retains a lovely warmth. Floor-to-ceiling windows funnel in sunlight during the day, and shaded ceiling lights strike a gentle tone in the evening. The acoustics are terrific: in spite of the hard surfaces there’s no echo, and no need to shout over the great playlist of old rock’n’roll and soul tunes. Most meals are designed for sharing and many dishes can be modified to suit vegetarians and vegans. Waiters are friendly and attentive, and the food (which is what you want to know about, isn’t it?) is seasonal, elegantly presented and subtle in flavour. Book ahead if you want a table on the weekend, because Jorg is becoming a local favourite.
Josie Bones
CONTEMPORARY
98 SMITH STREET, COLLINGWOOD
(03) 9417 1878 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN MON, WED & THURS 5PM–10PM, FRI–SUN NOON–10PM
ENTREES $3.50–$6, SHARED PLATES $4–$28, DESSERTS $12–$14
BOOKINGS FOR GROUPS OF 8 OR MORE
VISA, MC, AMEX
The pig’s-trotter door handles at Josie Bones politely dissuade vegetarians from entering. The ten-foot-long picture of a skinned rabbit above the bar is less subtle. Masterchef contestant and beer lover Chris Badenoch has realised his much-talked-about nose-to-tail restaurant. Although read the menu (which does actually cater for vegetarians) and you’ll realise it’s more nose and tail, with nothing lean in between. Kilojoules start with crackling of the day, followed by crumbed and fried trotter fritters and octopus and bone marrow cigars (yes, they’re fried too). The solution is to embrace the concept and wash it all down with beer, an area in which Josie Bones excels. In fact, the restaurant feels very much like a beer hall thanks to the long timber bar, high tables and exposed brick. An inch-thick drinks list boasts ales from all over the world and there’s a ‘beer guy’ on hand to assist. Ask for the beer flight and he’ll take you through four tastings themed around the elements of beer. Cheers!
Koliba
CZECH/SLOVAKIAN
11 JOHNSTON STREET, COLLINGWOOD
(03) 9417 3797 • MAP P.284
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $8 A BOTTLE
OPEN TUES–SAT 5PM–10PM, SUN NOON–3PM, 5PM–10PM
ENTREES $6.90–$9.90, MAINS $17.90–$29.90, DESSERTS $5.90–$8.90
VISA, MC
Don’t know much about central European food? You wouldn’t be alone. Think schnitzel, cabbage and lots of deep-frying and you’d be on the right track. And as far as vegetarians are concerned, forget about it. That does this little restaurant something of an injustice, though. All brick and dark wood, it’s a little bit ’70s but the waitress has a lovely lilt that suggests she’s a native of the area concerned. She explains the specials, and delivers half-litre mugs of proper Budvar (hell, if that was all Koliba offered, it’d still be worth a visit). Entrees are almost unnecessary, but if you must, the bramborak – fried potato pancakes served with sweet and sour cabbage – and the devil toast topped with minced beef and cheese are worth discovering. The mains (goulash, pork knuckle, chicken schnitzel, roasted duck) are huge and come with plenty of carbs. The roast pork served with bread dumplings and cabbage is particularly good. If you can possibly face dessert, the apple strudel studded with sultanas and walnuts is just the ticket (or so we hear).
Konjo
ETHIOPIAN
20 SMITH STREET, COLLINGWOOD
(03) 9419 5713 • MAP P.284
BYO, CORKAGE $3 A BOTTLE
OPEN WED–SAT 5PM–10PM
ENTREES $4.50–$7.50, MAINS $15.50–$20.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Eating with your hands is a simple pleasure that’s not only encouraged but enforced at Konjo, who have replaced cutlery with traditional injera, a flat pancake with a zingy citrus aftertaste. Konjo’s clean and white dining space doubles as an arts and craft store, and the walls are laden with Ethiopian handicrafts available for sale. It is a small and hushed space, with seating for about twenty people. Ethiopian is social food – everyone digs in to the same large platter. And you’ll have to be quick when the food is this good: spicy doro wat, a chicken stew highly flavoured with chilli-based berbere spices; the fluorescent yellow aterkik alitcha, split peas simmered in turmeric; and kitfo, beef served with Ethiopian cottage cheese. The best way to try Ethiopia’s cuisine is Konjo’s Friday night platter ($18 a head), which dishes up six different stews on the one plate, or the buffet on Saturday ($20 a head). Come to Konjo with clean hands and an empty stomach; there’s a lot to try.
Ladro
ITALIAN
224 GERTRUDE STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9415 7575 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN MON–FRI 6PM–11PM, SAT 5.30PM–11PM, SUN NOON–3PM, 5.30PM–11PM
ENTREES $8.50–$22, MAINS $12.50–$38.50, DESSERTS $12.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED LOCATION ALSO IN PRAHRAN
Ladro in Gertrude Street, although smaller than its Greville Street sibling, still delivers in spades (pizza spades!). There’s a confidence in the air here – the people at Ladro know what they do, and know they do it well. They don’t seek to impress, just to share their great food. Overall Ladro has a very unaffected, easygoing atmosphere that’s perfect for catching up with friends. A few communal tables encourage the lively atmosphere. The staff are efficient, friendly and knowledgeable – happy to help with suggestions or explanations. The wine list offers a decent selection, with wines by the glass written on the wall beside the kitchen, along with the specials. Simplicity is at the heart of Ladro and the minimalist, uncomplicated decor reflects the menu. There are no flashy or seductive phrases on the food menu. Instead, wonderfully simple descriptions whet your appetite. Compared to other restaurants, the dishes may be described as almost bare. But gourmet ingredients of the finest quality and freshness need very little dressing up to appeal. The result is absolutely delicious.
Los Amates Mexican Kitchen
MEXICAN
34 JOHNSTON STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9417 0441 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SUN 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $5.90–$18, MAINS $22.50–$30, DESSERTS $8.50, BANQUETS $36–$60
VISA, MC, EFTPOS
From the bright, bold decorations that fill Los Amates to the boisterous music pumping through the speakers, there’s a feeling that this restaurant is up for a bit of a party. The menu is quite massive with a large selection of tequilas and food that leaves you with the question not of where to begin, but of where to stop ordering. Tacos, burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas, nachos and sometimes (as a special, so call ahead to find out) tamales are listed in all forms of meat and vegetarian ranges. There’s also a menu just for the kids, and banquet options for the indecisive (and hungry). If you’re not across Mexican food, then this restaurant is a great place to start – the staff are also happy to help (and smiley). If tequila is off limits, try one of the speciality non-alcoholic drinks traditional to Mexico – the frescas (natural fruit drinks), like horchata (rice water) and jamaica (hibiscus), come recommended. When you find yourself wanting something sweet, order the flan to round out the whole experience.
Madame Sousou
FRENCH
231 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9417 0400 • MAP P.284
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $15 A BOTTLE
OPEN DAILY 9AM–10PM
ENTREES $16–$27, MAINS $19–$45, DESSERTS $14–$15
VISA, MC
The only thing missing from Madame Sousou is a man walking past in a beret and striped top carrying a baguette. Yann Tiersen and Edith Piaf greet you as you walk into this slavishly reproduced Paris eatery. There are cane chairs and tiny tables out on Brunswick Street for un petit vin rouge and un cigarette, and francophone waiters (sadly not snooty) usher you inside past art-lined walls, a brass-caged bar, snowy linen and an impressive collection of wine. Dress is smart casual, the nudes are for sale and the enthusiastic waitstaff will press you to an aperitif and six entrees if you’re not careful. The menu is crammed with charcuterie, imported wines, steak frites and tarte tatin aux poivres, and the quality of the food is unimpeachable. Of course, you may find yourself having to waddle out the lovely art nouveau door, but such is the price of the Frenchiest experience to be had on Australian soil.
Mao’s
CHINESE
263 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9419 1919 • MAP P.284
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $6 A BOTTLE
OPEN DAILY 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $4.20–$7.50, MAINS $15.50–$24, DESSERTS $5.50
VISA, MC, AMEX, EF TPOS
Brunswick Street teems with people, bars and restaurants. Lights flash, car horns blare and trams trundle by as bicycle bells ting with riders swiftly manoeuvring past. And almost every shopfront is a restaurant. Narrowing down your options is the way to manage such a busy neighbourhood. So, if you’re looking for a place to settle in with friends or family, to relax over large serves of well-made Chinese food, then Mao’s is the place to be. The dishes are from the Chinese Hunan province, where Mao was born, which is known for its hot, spicy cuisine, but don’t fret if you’re not a chilli fan – there are other options. Spring rolls are almost a cliché at Asian restaurants, but they’re still a good idea here, followed by a serve of spicy calamari and, if you’re up for a bit of indulgence, the Peking duck. There are plenty of tasty vegies too, if you start to note a lack of ‘green’ in your selection. Mao’s friendly service, tasty dishes and welcoming environment make for a perfect dinner out.
Matteo’s
CONTEMPORARY
533 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY NORTH
(03) 9481 1177 • MAP P.287
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $20 A BOTTLE
OPEN SUN–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–10PM, SAT 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $18–$26, MAINS $38–$44, DESSERTS $18–$22, DEGUSTATION $110
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Matteo’s is a rare breed. Unobtrusively housed in a Victorian terrace at the quiet end of Brunswick Street, it has been open for fifteen years, it never advertises, and you won’t read about it in Epicure. Yet this restaurant enjoys the enviable status of patronage both by foodies and by locals. Low-key elegance works the room here. From the dressed-up diners to artful interiors that mix heritage features (ceiling roses, chandeliers, flocked wallpaper) with modern glamour (dimmed downlights, venetian blinds and a striped monochrome feature wall), the restaurant is stylish but approachable. The seasonally changing menu offers modern twists on regional cuisines, including a fair vegetarian selection. Oysters are presented in six ways, the most exhilarating in a shot glass with mirin and sake. Battered whiting sheathed in nori melts in the mouth with a tropical salad. Desserts are decadent and wines are extensively listed, with a strong local showing, and the attentive staff are happy to wine match your meal. Matteo’s is a faultless destination for that special date, family gathering or business lunch.
Mutti’s
EASTERN EUROPEAN
118 ELGIN STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9349 5008 • MAP P.285
LICENSED
OPEN WED, THURS & SUN 4PM–LATE, FRI & SAT NOON–3PM, 4PM–LATE
ENTREES $16–$33, MAINS $25–$38, DESSERTS $12
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
Mutti’s is the German colloquialism for ‘Mamma’, suggesting that this restaurant will provide good, old-fashioned home cooking. And Mamma delivers just that, with a few contemporary cooking tricks up her sleeve. This Austro-German eating and meeting place (suitable for barflies as well as diners) is cosy, thoughtfully designed and has an air of authenticity and panache without a hint of pretension. The staff are friendly and enjoy introducing newcomers to Austrian cuisine, encouraging you to try classic dishes such as golden fried Topfen Knödel – dumplings with buffalo ricotta – served with smoked almonds, preserved lemon and a rocket and zucchini salad. The schnitzels are crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and there’s Paradeiser (tomato sauce, not ketchup) aplenty across the menu. Vegetarians may be overwhelmed by the meatiness, but there’s more than one veg option to choose from, including a wild mushroom and goat’s curd strudel and slow-cooked baby pumpkin with lemon polenta. Dessert means apple strudel: flaky pastry, spicy cinnamon and Chantilly cream. To finish ask your waiter to introduce you to traditional schnapps. Woo!
North Fitzroy Arms
GASTROPUB
296 RAE STREET, FITZROY NORTH
(03) 9489 8519 • MAP P.287
LICENSED
OPEN MON 5PM–9.30PM, TUES–THURS NOON–2.30PM, 6PM–9.30PM, FRI & SAT NOON–3PM, 6PM–10PM, SUN NOON–3PM, 5PM–9PM
ENTREES $7–$19, MAINS $19–$32, DESSERTS $12–$20
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
There are many reasons to visit the North Fitzroy Arms: the wellkept ales, modest wine list, the wood panelling, open fire, sunny courtyard, the relaxed and easy atmosphere – and that’s all without mentioning the food. It’s owned and operated by a Slovenian couple who have perfected a balance between public bar and fine dining. They’ve breathed fresh air into stock-standard pub grub by adding flourishes to the menu from their homeland, such as goulashes, bread dumplings, sauerkraut and apple strudel (which is exactly what you imagine an Eastern European grandma would make). Yet you can still expect your usual Aussie specials in the bar: $15 T-bone steaks on Tuesdays, a free pot of beer with a parma on Thursdays, and an unmissable $15 roast on Sundays. Inside it’s like a Fitzroy footy theme park, with pictures and jumpers from back in the day on display. But this is definitely not a sportsman’s pub, more of an upmarket backstreet local that’s the epitome of cool.
Nyala
AFRICAN
131 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9419 9128 • MAP P.284
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $3 A BOTTLE
OPEN DAILY 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $6–$9, MAINS $17–$20, DESSERTS $6–$7
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
This homey eatery dotted with African art, with bright fabrics hanging from the walls, has been plying its trade at the quieter end of Brunswick Street for more than twenty years, with owner Ermias Wondimu at the helm and out on the floor. You don’t open night after night for that long without doing something very right, and there’s a lot to love here. Wondimu is originally from Ethiopia, and the menu concentrates there while touching on other corners of the vast continent. The servings are generous, well priced and oh so tasty. A range of dips makes a popular entree, although the sambusa – Ethiopian pastries stuffed with spicy mince – are worth ordering. The mains – and almost half are vegetarian – are served with rice, couscous or injera, a traditional flat bread that resembles a pancake. Try the kuku na nazi (Kenyan coconut chicken curry) or the Nyala special of an Ethiopian beef stew with ginger, garlic and other spices. There’s also a good range of African beers available, as well as Savanna Dry Cider from South Africa.
Paris Go
FRENCH
116 RATHDOWNE STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9347 7507 • MAP P.285
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $10 A BOTTLE
OPEN WED–FRI NOON–3PM, 6PM–11PM, SAT–TUES 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $11–$17, MAINS $25–$35, DESSERTS $13–$18
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Don’t let the sign hanging over the entrance frighten you. The logo may look like it was designed in the early ’80s, but it’s not indicative of the ambience or food at this iconic French bistro. Step inside and you’ll find a relaxed Parisian vibe with white linen tablecloths, large vintage murals on the walls and waiters in sharp uniforms. The menu focuses on traditional provincial meals and offers a full range of pâtés, terrines and tartares alongside the obligatory escargot. If that seems a little daunting they also offer entrecote de boeuf (porterhouse steak) and goujons de poisson au tartare (fish and chips). The wine list is not huge, but it features a good selection of local and French wines with a particular nod towards Burgundy. With friendly staff, a casual atmosphere and a kitchen that French cuisine aficionados regularly name check, this little Carlton restaurant is definitely worth a visit.
Pireaus Blues
GREEK
310 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9417 0222 • MAP P.284
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $5 A HEAD
OPEN MON & TUES 5PM–10.30PM, WED–SAT NOON–3PM, 5PM–10.30PM, SUN NOON–10.30PM
ENTREES $10–$20, MAINS $22–$39, DESSERTS $8–$21
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
The Greeks say when you’re hungry, you’re well, so you’d better be feeling extremely well when you go to Pireaus Blues. The food here is drawn from the childhood of owners Lazaros and George – Greek home-style cooking – and their mothers can still be found helping in the restaurant’s kitchen. The family theme extends to the dining room, which is decorated with pictures of relatives and trinkets of various sorts and feels like a family home. Expect to be served by people who genuinely want to feed you. With big tables, this is the perfect place to get together with a large group of friends or, equally, to dine with a partner in the window and watch the foot traffic of busy Brunswick Street. Pireaus Blues is well regarded for its use of seasonal produce, and the specials board is diverse and ever-changing. On the menu you’ll find lemonmarinated chargrilled lamb (paidakia), lightly fried calamari and the always popular mixed grill, and they have a solid selection of wines from the Greek islands. You’re always in good hands at Pireaus Blues.
The Provincial Hotel
EUROPEAN
299 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9810 0042 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN DAILY NOON–3PM, 6PM–10PM
ENTREES $14–$16, MAINS $16.50–$30.50
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
At the corner of Brunswick and Johnston streets sits the grand dame of Fitzroy. The shabby chic Provincial Hotel has been at the centre of Brunswick Street life for more than twenty years, and the current chef clearly intends on it staying that way. The Provincial is indeed a multi-purpose venue, catering to drinkers in its front bar, couples in its front room, and gastropub group diners out back – and it’s here that you’ll find the real magic. Chef Paul Cooper’s menu changes regularly to suit the season and provide variety for the repeat visitor. His nose-to-tail approach means that a wide range of cuts is available, or not, throughout the week. The menu is short but strong: entrees focus on fresh local fish while mains are beautifully presented contemporary takes on old-school classics – think whole roasted chicken on French beans, sirloin on creamy mash with bone marrow and red wine sauce, and house-made gnocchi. Generous wood-fire pizzas round out the menu.
Rice Queen
ASIAN
LEVEL 2, 231 SMITH STREET, COLLINGWOOD
(03) 9419 6624 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN WED–MON 6PM–LATE
ENTREES $3.50–$10.50, MAINS $15–$16.50, DESSERTS $3–$8
NO BOOKINGS FRI OR SAT
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
It’s the only place around here that you’re likely to find tropical rum punch and cabana boys in the middle of July. Or a grand piano on a stage. Or bright blue peonies stencilled onto walls. Or fluoro green light coverings made from plastic baskets, cups and a waste bin glued together. Previously a salsa studio, Rice Queen is the baby of restaurateur James Langley (of the Panama Dining Room upstairs and also St Jude's Cellars). Like Panama, the room is large and lofty, but it has more of a cheap and cheerful feel: 1930s cane furniture, chintzy vases and lamps, fake flowers, Formica tables, plastic chopsticks and little red baskets – the same sort as those stuck to the lights. The menu offers firm favourites like steamed pork belly, prawn and chive dumplings, pad Thai and paneer curry – with many options for vegetarians and vegans. Come Sunday for $10 laksa or Monday for $15 curry. In keeping with the holiday-camp vibe, there’s music on stage from 7.30pm, making it the ideal spot for a casual catch-up, no matter what time of year it is.
St Jude’s Cellars
EUROPEAN
389–391 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9419 7411 • MAP P.285
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–FRI NOON–10.30PM, SAT & SUN 9AM–10.30PM
ENTREES $6–$17, MAINS $22–$38, DESSERTS $6–$12.50, BANQUETS $60
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
A small wine shop and bar with excellent food, St Jude’s has been adding a touch of class to Brunswick Street since 2008. The only question is: is St Jude’s more about the wine or the food? Walk through the sophisticated wine shop on the way to the bar, choosing a bottle to have with dinner if one takes your fancy ($15 mark-up), or settle into the stunning black and white dining room and let the knowledgeable sommelier recommend you a drop. The menu is fashionably green, noting that ingredients are organic, biodynamic and free-range where possible, and that the restaurant supports sustainable farming and fishing. The dishes are designed for sharing – courses are split into snacks, light dishes, main dishes, sides and meat from the charcoal grill – and the mouth-watering food is delivered to the centre of the table to pick at. Service is friendly and efficient, and the relaxed atmosphere is alluring, inviting punters to stay for a little longer – with another glass of wine, or another plate to share, perhaps?
Shakahari
VEGETARIAN
201–203 FARADAY STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9347 3848 • MAP P.285
LICENSED
OPEN MON–THURS NOON–3PM, 6PM–9.30PM, FRI & SAT NOON–3PM, 6PM–10PM, SUN 6PM–9.30PM
ENTREES $10.50–$14.50, MAINS $19.50–$21, DESSERTS $4.50–$13.50
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
Shakahari is Melbourne’s oldest vegetarian eatery and also the most upmarket meat-free restaurant in town. Set in a pretty Carlton terrace, it’s a place to get a fine-dining veg meal at reasonable prices, making it a favourite date and special dinner spot among the veg set; book the courtyard out the back for the best seat in the house. Shakahari serves food that is seasonal, organic and healthful. Look past the naff names of the dishes to find food that is well balanced, thoughtfully presented and somehow always the perfect portion size. Vegan and gluten-free options are clearly marked and there are plenty of both. Despite a seasonally changing menu, the classics are kept on the rotation: the tempura-fried avocado rolls, salad Shakahari and vegan tofu brûlée alone have ensured a regular returning clientele over the years. The wine list is small but serviceable. The only downside to Shakahari is its somewhat lacklustre service, but the food more than makes up for it. Large groups may have trouble making a booking.
The Standard Hotel
GASTROPUB
293 FITZROY STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9419 4793 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN MON & TUES 3PM–11PM, WED–SAT NOON–11PM, SUN NOON–9PM
ENTREES $8–$20, MAINS $14–$29, DESSERTS $8–$12
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
If it’s a sunny day you can expect the Standard to be overrun – the extensive, leafy beer garden is constantly voted in Melbourne’s top five. Even once it turns chilly it’s a great place to gather your thoughts over a beer and a deluxe parma in the dining room, or to swoon and sway to the free live music in the bar Wednesday and Sunday nights. The Standard is popular with locals for its no-fuss, high-quality menu of perennial pub favourites such as the Standard burger, steak sandwich, pepper-crusted kangaroo fillets and their mammoth chilli bean enchiladas. They produce the kind of comfort food that cures hangovers but also plays accomplice in developing one – a shrewd business model indeed. Located on a secluded street which runs parallel to busy Brunswick Street, this pub is a hidden gem. An extensive selection of booze is available from the takeaway bottle shop too. All pubs should be this good – perhaps that’s why it’s called the Standard.
TOP 10 UNDER $
CHEAP EATS MEANS DIFF ERENT THINGS TO DIFF ERENT PEOPLE, BUT A MAIN UNDER $10 IS DIRT CHEAP IN ANYONE’S LANGUAGE.
Stylish and casual, Chowhound is surprisingly cheap. The menu is broad – ranging from Indian to Asian and Mediterranean – and also available to take away, meaning ordering in need no longer make you feel guilty about being stodgy.
The laksas at this hawker shopfront are robust and flavourful – packed with spice and sweetened with coconut. Malaysians sure know how to serve Maryland, and the cendol drinks are good fun.
This quiet little corner bar has Little Creatures pale ale and Monteith’s apple cider on tap – perfect accompaniments for the $5.90 chilli squid or pork belly and pear pizzas.
Cheap eats institution Don Don will serve you up and spit you out before you’ve had a chance to put your change back in your wallet. Don’t fight it – just go enjoy your bento on the lawn across the road.
Though the food and prices are the same, Don Tojo couldn’t be more different from founding brother, Don Don. Here you can get Melbourne’s cheapest beers ($3 Coopers and $4 Asahis), and with indoor and outdoor seating you can even stay a while.
Laksa is, of course, the order of every day here, and you can trust the chef’s mum’s laksa to fill you up when you’ve only got a tenner in your pocket.
Permanently packed and still boasting about Bill Clinton’s visit more than a decade later, Mekong Vietnam serves a reliable slow-cooked pho and 666 Vietnamese beer to go with it.
Little mountains of steamed buns fill the window of shabby Nam Loong, but they don’t sit there for long. At under $2 each, their range of barbecue pork, vegetarian, taro, Chinese sausage and other buns are a tasty and filling meal on the go.
Noodle makers stretch their dough in the front window, and you’ll get your fill on heaps of dumplings, noodle soups and authentic Chinese sides.
Comfort food for slummin’ it hipsters, the $6 gourmet pizzas (served until 6pm every night) are the staple of many students’ diets and a good reason to hit this bar early. There are also burgers and old-mate hot chips to tuck into over a beer.
Supermaxi
ITALIAN
305 ST GEORGES ROAD, FITZROY NORTH
(03) 9482 2828 • MAP P.289
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SUN 5PM–10.30PM
ENTREES $11–$18, MAINS $15–$33, DESSERTS $9–$13
ALL CARDS ACCEPTED
The white walls, original terrazzo tiles and black bar indicate that Supermaxi is a cut above your average suburban pizza place, and its elegant simplicity continues through the menu. Owner and chef Rita Macali’s signature food is front and centre at Supermaxi, with simple Italian favourites cooked beautifully. The pizza is definitely the highlight – light, chewy and charred to perfection in the kitchen’s double pizza oven, with toppings that run more towards fior di latte, porcini and pancetta than your typical ham, cheese and mushrooms. Alongside the pizza there is a small but appealing menu, including several raved-about pasta dishes. Vegetarian options are abundant. The wine list is interesting and accessible, with reds and whites sold by the half-litre carafe. Although not huge, Supermaxi seats a decent seventy people and is very accommodating to groups and families. Service is friendly and efficient. All up, Supermaxi delivers city-quality dining in a relaxed local setting, making it a new favourite destination in Melbourne’s hip inner north.
Town Hall Hotel
ITALIAN
166 JOHNSTON STREET, FITZROY
(03) 9416 5055 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN TUES–SAT NOON–3PM, 6PM–LATE, SUN 11.30AM–3PM
ENTREES $8–$18, MAINS $19–$32, DESSERTS $7–$14
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
You know the place – it used to be the Purple Turtle. And now this former sticky-carpet venue, which hosted so many dodgy student nights, has become one of those gastropubs serving great food with a titchy bit of grunge factor. In the front bar you can get a steak sanga and watch sports. No wuckers, mate. But in the dining room the stuffiness is upped a wee bit. Red walls and sleek grey furniture have a touch of the 60 Minute Makeover about them, but the dim lighting and hushed tones draw in a mixed crowd of uppity oldies and some of the students who’ve grown up and now have real jobs. The recipe for success, though, is great service and great food. Staff here seem to be well trained in who to leave alone and who might want a bit of chitchat. Oh, and don’t be surprised if head chef Harry Lilai pops out to ask how your meal is or to offer you some offal. The venue has grown up and our tastebuds have too.
Trotters
ITALIAN
400 LYGON STREET, CARLTON
(03) 9347 5657 • MAP P.285
LICENSED & BYO, CORKAGE $5 A BOTTLE OPEN MON–FRI 7.30AM–LATE, SAT 8AM–LATE, SUN 9AM–LATE
ENTREES $5.50–$7.50, MAINS $8.50–$25, DESSERTS $8.50–$10
NO BOOKINGS
VISA, MC, AMEX
In the heart of Little Italy, Trotters has honed a bohemian take on the Italian osteria. Simple wooden tables and chairs? Check. Big old espresso machine? Check. Vintage packing crates on the walls, menus sleeved in album covers (we got lucky with Shirley Bassey), and hanging mobiles made of fishing tackle? It could only be Trotters. Its excellent position between the cinema and bookshop, and generous opening hours, endear it to locals as a pop-in for breakfast, dinner or a midnight tipple. The food is simple and faithfully prepared, from Italian staples (parma and pasta) to pub grub (burgers and fries). Servings are substantial and prices reasonable. The atmosphere is usually humming and, as bookings aren’t taken, it’s recommended you avoid the peak times (pre- and postfilm screenings in particular). The bebop soundtrack, friendly waiters and warm lighting make this one of the more convivial and satisfying dining experiences on Lygon Street.
Wabi Sabi Salon
JAPANESE
94 SMITH STREET, COLLINGWOOD
(03) 9417 6119 • MAP P.284
LICENSED
OPEN MON–SAT NOON–3PM, 6PM–11PM
ENTREES $7–$15, MAINS $16–$30, DESSERTS $10–$12
ALL MAJOR CARDS ACCEPTED
LOCATION ALSO IN ST KILDA
It’s been said that Wabi Sabi Salon is the lovechild of Tokyo and Collingwood. If that’s the case, Enid Blyton must have been the surrogate mother as there’s something decidedly Faraway Tree about this cheerful and bustling little eatery. The rickety-looking loft is a great vantage point to see what everyone else is eating, and a trip to the bathrooms takes in a seasonal Japanese garden with an engawa platform. Chef Atsushi Kawakami’s personally created dishes are tasty and filling, ranging from lightly scorched sashimi to traditional pan-fries. There are seven different types of sake on the menu to accompany his delicate flavours, as well as a wide range of teas. Regularly the Land of Birthdays, Wabi Sabi works for one and all. Fanny and Dick would never have dined so well.