Transport

Arriving in Shanghai

Most international passengers reach Shanghai by air. The city has two airports: Pudong International Airport to the east and Hongqiao International Airport on the other side of the city to the west, with most international passengers arriving at the former. Shanghai is China’s second-largest international air hub (third-largest including Hong Kong) and if you can’t fly direct, you can go via Beijing, Hong Kong or Guangzhou (and a host of lesser international airports in China).

AFrom the US west coast figure on a 13- to 14-hour flight to Shanghai or Beijing, and an additional hour or more to Hong Kong.

AFrom London Heathrow it’s about an 11-hour flight to Beijing and 12 to 13 hours to Shanghai and Hong Kong.

ADaily (usually several times a day) domestic flights connect Shanghai to every major city in China.

AShanghai is linked to the rest of China by an efficient rail network (with numerous high-speed lines) and, to a far lesser extent, long-distance buses.

AShanghai can be reached by ferry from Osaka, Kobe and Nagasaki in Japan.

Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com.

Pudong International Airport

Pudong International Airport (PVG; Pudong Guoji Jichang %6834 1000, flight information 96990; www.shairport.com) is located 30km southeast of Shanghai, near the East China Sea. All international flights (and some domestic flights) operate from here. If you’re making an onward domestic connection from Pudong International Airport, it’s crucial that you find out whether the domestic flight leaves from Pudong or Hongqiao, as it will take at least an hour to cross the city.

There are two main passenger terminals, which are easy to navigate. A satellite terminal is due to start operating in 2015. Departures are on the upper level and arrivals on the lower level, where there is a tourist information counter.

Banks and ATMs Located throughout the airport, on both sides of customs.

China Post (Zhongguo Youzheng) Offices are located in the arrivals and departures halls.

Left luggage Located in the arrivals and departures halls and open from 6am to 9.30pm. Charges are from ¥10 to ¥30 (up to four hours), or ¥50 per day.

Hotel The Merry Lin Air Terminal Hotel (Dazhong Meilin Gekong Gang Binguan %3879 9999; 6hr from ¥198, 24hr from ¥298) is located between terminals 1 and 2, in front of the Maglev ticket office.

Shuttle buses Connect the terminals, stopping at doors 1 and 8 (terminal 1) and doors 23 and 27 (terminal 2).

Wi-fi Available, but you have to purchase time.

Maglev

The warp-speed Maglev (Cifu Lieche www.smtdc.com; economy one-way/return ¥50/80, with same-day air ticket ¥40, children under/over 1.2m free/half-price) runs from Pudong International Airport to Longyang Rd metro stop (just south of Century Park) on metro line 2 in eight minutes, running every 20 minutes in both directions roughly between 6.45am and 9.40pm.

TAKING THE SHaNGHaI MAGLEV TRAIN

If you need to reach or depart Pudong International Airport chop-chop, Shanghai’s futuristic Maglev train comes with a top speed of 430km/hr. Launched in 2003, it’s the world’s sole Maglev (magnetic levitation) train in commercial operation. In place of conventional wheels, the Sino-German train’s carriages are supported above the tracks by a magnetic field. Carriages have simple interiors with ample legroom and, perhaps tellingly, no seatbelts. LED meters notch up the rapidly escalating velocity, although the train starts to decelerate around five minutes into its eight-minute cruise, in preparation for arrival. When it hits peak velocity, taxis heading in the same direction in the adjacent freeway fast lane appear to be driving backwards.

The Maglev train only takes you as far as the terminus at Longyang Rd station in Pudong, from where you’ll have to disembark and lug your bags onto the metro system to continue your journey. Nonetheless, a trip on the train is thrilling and a return trip to the airport is a fun outing for kids and the family. From a transportation point of view, the Maglev has competition from metro line 2, which travels all the way into town from Pudong International Airport and on to Hongqiao Airport Terminal 2, via the city centre.

Metro

Metro line 2 zips from Pudong International Airport to Hongqiao International Airport, passing through central Shanghai. You will, however, need to disembark at Guanglan Rd station and transfer to another train on the same platform to continue your journey. Pudong International Airport is a long way out: it takes about 45 minutes to People’s Sq (¥7) and 1¾ hours to Hongqiao International Airport (¥8).

Airport Buses

Airport buses take between 60 and 90 minutes to reach destinations in Puxi, west of the Huangpu River. Buses drop off at all departure halls and pick up outside arrivals, at both terminals 1 and 2, leaving the airport roughly every 15 to 30 minutes from 7am to 11pm and heading to the airport from roughly 5.30am to 9.30pm (bus 1 runs till 11pm). The most useful buses:

Airport bus 1 (¥30) Links Pudong International Airport with Hongqiao International Airport (terminals 1 and 2)

Airport bus 2 (¥22) Links Pudong International Airport with the (largely disused) Airport City Terminal (Jichang Chengshi Hangzhanlou MAP GOOGLE MAP ; West Nanjing Rd), east of Jing’an Temple; useful for reading Jing’an district.

Airport bus 5 (¥16 to ¥22) Links Pudong Airport with Shanghai Railway Station via People’s Sq.

Airport bus 7 (¥20) runs to Shanghai South Railway Station.

Midnight line (¥16 to ¥30) Operates from 11pm to the last arrival, running to Hongqiao Airport terminal 1 via Longyang Rd metro station to Shimen No 1 Rd and Huashan Rd.

Taxi

Rides into central Shanghai cost around ¥160 and take about an hour; to Hongqiao airport it costs around ¥200. Most Shanghai taxi drivers are honest, but ensure they use the meter. Avoid monstrous overcharging by using the regular taxi rank outside the arrivals hall.

Hotel Shuttle Buses

Most top-end and some midrange hotels operate shuttle buses to and from their hotels at fixed times (roughly ¥40 to Pudong International Airport). Enquire at the rows of hotel desks in the arrivals hall or contact your hotel beforehand.

Long-Distance Buses

Regular buses run to Suzhou (¥84, three hours, 17 per day) and Hangzhou (¥100, three hours, six per day) from the long-distance bus stop at the airport.

Hongqiao International Airport

Eighteen kilometres west of the Bund, Hongqiao International Airport (SHA; Hongqiao Guoji Jichang %5260 4620, flight information 6268 8899; www.shairport.com; mHongqiao Airport Terminal 1, mHongqiao Airport Terminal 2) has two terminals: the older and less-used terminal 1 (east terminal; halls A and B) and the new and sophisticated terminal 2 (west terminal; attached to Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station), where most flights arrive. If flying domestically within China from Shanghai, consider flying from here; it is closer to central Shanghai than Pudong International Airport. If transferring between Hongqiao and Pudong International Airports, note they are a long way (1¾ hours) apart.

ATMs Located at most exits and accept international cards.

China Post (Zhongguo Youzheng) An office is located in the departures hall.

Information counters (Hongqiao Guoji Jichang Zixun Fuwuchu h5.30am-11pm) Staff can assist by booking discounted accommodation, providing free maps, offering advice on transportation into town and writing the Chinese script for a taxi.

Luggage storage Available in the departure halls and arrivals hall of both terminals, operating between 7am and 8.30pm. Bags must be locked and a passport or ID is required.

Shuttle buses Run frequently (from 6am to 11pm) between terminals 1 and 2, taking 13 minutes.

Wi-fi Accessible by using the password provided at an information counter.

Terminal 2

Metro

Terminal 2 is connected to downtown Shanghai by lines 2 and 10 (30 minutes to People’s Sq) from Hongqiao International Airport terminal 2 metro station; both lines run through East Nanjing Rd station (for the Bund). Line 2 runs to Pudong and connects with Pudong International Airport (¥8; 1¾ hours) and Longyang Rd metro station, south of Century Park, from where you can hop aboard the Maglev. The next stop west from Hongqiao Airport terminal 2 is Hongqiao Railway Station (connected to the airport and accessible on foot).

Taxi

A taxi to the Bund will cost around ¥70; to Pudong International Airport, around ¥200. Avoid taxi sharks.

Bus

Airport bus 1 (¥30, from 6am to 9.30pm) Runs to Pudong International Airport.

Bus 941 (¥6, from 5.30am to 11pm) Runs to the main Shanghai Railway Station.

Night buses 316 (from 11am to 5pm) and 320 (from 11am to 5pm) Run to East Yan’an Rd near the Bund.

Long-Distance Bus

The long-distance bus station at terminal 2 runs to myriad destinations, including Suzhou, Nanjing, Qingdao, Tunxi (for Huangshan), Hangzhou and Dengfeng (for the Shaolin Temple).

Train

Attached to terminal 2, Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station has high-speed G-class trains to Hangzhou, Suzhou, Nanjing and Beijing.

Terminal 1

Metro

Hongqiao Airport terminal 1 is the next stop east on line 10 from Hongqiao Airport terminal 2 metro station. Change to line 2 for the metro to Pudong International Airport (¥8).

Bus

Airport shuttle bus (¥4, from 7.50am to 11pm) Runs from Hongqiao Airport terminal 1 to the largely defunct Airport City Terminal in Jingan; it's useful for accessing the Jingan area.

Airport bus 1 (¥30, 6am to 9.30pm) Runs to Pudong International Airport.

Bus 925 (¥4, 5.30am to 10.30pm) Runs to People’s Sq via Hongmei Rd and Shimen No 1 Rd.

Bus 941 (¥6, 5.30am to 11pm) Links Hongqiao International Airport with the main Shanghai Railway Station.

Bus 938 (¥7, 6am to midnight) Runs to Yangjiadu in Pudong via Hongxu Rd, North Caoxi Rd and South Xizang Rd.

Bus 806 (¥5, 6am to 11pm) Runs to Lupu Bridge in the south of Puxi.

Taxi

Taxi queues can be long from terminal 1; it can be quicker to take the metro or the bus. Avoid taxi sharks.

Train

China’s rail service is gargantuan, excellent and more than a little mind-boggling. Colossal investment over recent years has pumped up the high-speed network. The rail network today totals more than 100,000km in length, including 11,000km of high-speed rail. The only ‘international’ train to arrive in Shanghai is the T99 from Kowloon in Hong Kong. Train is, however, an excellent way to arrive in Shanghai from other parts of China. You can also take a train from Shanghai to Lhasa, Tibet (when Tibet is accessible).

ATrains are generally highly punctual and are usually a safe way to travel.

ATrain stations are often conveniently close to the centre of town.

ATravelling in sleeper berths at night often means you can arrive at your destination first thing in the morning, saving a night’s hotel accommodation.

Railway Stations

The new and sophisticated Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station (Shanghai Hongqiao Zhan mHongqiao Railway Station) is Asia's largest train station. It is located at the western end of metro line 10 and on line 2, near Hongqiao International Airport. It's the terminus for the high-speed G-class trains and other trains and includes services to Beijing (¥555, very regular), Hangzhou (¥78, very regular), Nanjing South (¥140, frequent) and Suzhou (¥40, regular).

The vast, hectic and sprawling Shanghai Railway Station (Shanghai Huoche Zhan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6317 9090; 385 Meiyuan Rd; mShanghai Railway Station), located in the north of town, is easily reached by metro lines 1, 4 and 3 and has G-class, D-class and express trains to Beijing (¥311, three daily), Hangzhou (¥93, four daily), Hong Kong (¥226, 6.20pm), Huangshan (¥94, two daily), Nanjing (¥140, frequent), Suzhou (¥40, frequent) and Xi'an (¥182, 10 daily).

Modern Shanghai South Railway Station (Shanghai Nanzhan %9510 5123; 200 Zhaofeng Rd) is easily accessed on metro lines 1 and 3. It has trains largely to southern and southwestern destinations including Guilin (¥351, four daily) and Hangzhou (¥29, frequent).

A few trains also leave from the renovated West Station (Shanghai Xizhan), including trains to Nanjing; however, it’s less convenient.

Train Tickets

Although procuring tickets for nearby destinations (such as Suzhou and Hangzhou) and high-speed train tickets is often straightforward, buying rail tickets in Shanghai and China can be very troublesome.

AForeigners need their passports when buying a ticket (the number gets printed on your ticket) at all train ticket offices.

ANever aim to get a hard-sleeper (or increasingly, soft-sleeper) ticket on the day of travel – plan a few days ahead.

AMost tickets can be booked in advance between two and 18 days (and sometimes longer) prior to your intended date of departure.

AAutomated ticket machines at Shanghai Railway Station and other train stations require Chinese ID and your passport will not work; you will need to queue at the ticket window.

AYou can use CTrip, China Highlights (www.chinahighlights.com) and China DIY Travel (www.china-diy-travel.com) to buy tickets online.

APrepare to queue for a long time at the train station.

ATicket purchases at stations and ticket offices can only be made in cash.

ATickets for travel around Chinese New Year and during the 1 May and 1 October holiday periods can be very hard to find, and prices increase on some routes.

ATickets on many routes (such as to Lhasa, Tibet) can be very hard to find in July and August so prepare to fly instead.

ATry to use the small train ticket offices dotted around town or get your hotel to book you a ticket.

AAvoid black-market tickets – your passport number must be on the ticket.

AThere are no refunds for lost train tickets, so hold on to them tightly.

AYou can get refunds on returned tickets before your train departs, but will be charged between 5% and 20% depending on how late you leave it till you return your ticket. There is a ticket returns window at most train stations.

Classes

The most comfortable way to get to destinations around Shanghai (such as Suzhou and Hangzhou) is by high-speed train, which assures you a comfortable seat and regular and punctual departures.

On swish high-speed G-class, D-class and C-class trains seating classes are straightforward:

A1st class (yideng)

A2nd class (erdeng)

ABusiness class (shangwu zuo)

AVIP class (tedeng zuo)

For most other slower (T-class, K-class, some Z-class and other) Chinese trains, you have the following choice of ticket types:

AHard seat (yingzuo)

AHard sleeper (yingwo)

ASoft seat (ruanzuo)

ASoft sleeper (ruanwo)

On non-high-speed trains, numbered soft seats are more comfortable than hard seats. Hard-seat class is not available on the high-speed C-, D- and G-class trains, and is only found on T- and K-class trains, and trains without a number prefix; a handful of Z-class trains have hard seats. Hard-seat class generally has padded seats, but it’s often unclean and noisy, and painful on the long haul. Since hard seat is the only class most locals can afford, it’s packed to the gills.

For overnight trips to further destinations, hard sleepers are easily comfortable enough, with only a fixed number of people allowed in the sleeper carriage. They serve very well as an overnight hotel.

The hard-sleeper carriage consists of doorless compartments with half-a-dozen bunks in three tiers and foldaway seats by the windows. Sheets, pillows and blankets are provided. Carriages are nonsmoking, although smokers congregate between carriages. Competition for hard sleepers is keen, so reserve early. Prices vary according to which berth you get: upper (cheapest), middle or lower berth.

Soft sleepers cost twice the hard-sleeper price, with four comfortable bunks in a closed, carpeted compartment.

Buying Tickets

There are several options for getting hold of train tickets in Shanghai. You can queue at the ticket offices (shoupiaoting) at train stations, but brace for a long wait. There are two ticket halls at the Shanghai Railway Station, one in the main building (same-day tickets) and another on the east side of the square (advance tickets). One counter should have English-speakers.

Your hotel will be able to obtain a ticket for you; however, a surcharge may be levied.

Tickets can be purchased for a small surcharge from travel agencies. You can also book tickets online using CTrip, which will then be delivered to your address in China, but your cannot buy e-tickets, print them out or collect them. China Highlights (www.chinahighlights.com) offers a similar service, but can also deliver e-tickets by email.

Hard-seat and hard-sleeper train tickets can be purchased for a small ¥5 commission from train ticket offices (huochepiao yushouchu), which are normally open between around 8am and 5pm or 6pm, sometimes with a break for lunch.

Train information is available over the phone in Chinese only (800 820 7890).

Bund Train Ticket Office TICKET OFFICE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 384 Middle Jiangxi Rd; 384 h8am-8pm)

Central train ticket office, not far from the Bund.

French Concession West Train Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 12 Dongping Rd; h8am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 1-5.30pm Sat & Sun)

Handy ticket office located in the west of the French Concession.

Hengfeng Rd Train Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 822 Hengfeng Rd; h8am-7pm )

If you can't handle the queues at Shanghai Railway Station, this small office under the bridge a short walk west is very useful.

Jing'an Train Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 77 Wanhangdu Rd; 77 h8am-5pm)

Useful train ticket office, located to the west of Jing'an Temple.

Lujiazui Train Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1396 Lujiazui Ring Rd; 1396 h8am-7pm)

Handy train ticket office, situated at the heart of Lujiazui, not far from the Oriental Pearl TV Tower.

Online Timetables & Useful Websites

China DIY Travel (www.china-diy-travel.com)

China Highlights (www.chinahighlights.com)

CTrip

Seat 61 (www.seat61.com/china.htm)

Travel China Guide (www.travelchinaguide.com)

Bus

As trains are fast, regular and efficient, and traffic on roads unpredictable, travelling by bus is not a very useful way to leave or enter Shanghai, unless you are visiting local water towns. Buses to Beijing take between 14 and 16 hours: it is far faster and more comfortable (but more expensive) to take the 5½-hour high-speed G-class trains to the capital, or even the eight-hour D-class trains.

The huge Shanghai South Long-Distance Bus Station (Shanghai Changtu Keyun Nanzhan GOOGLE MAP ; %5436 2835; www.ctnz.net; 666 Shilong Rd; mShanghai South Railway Station) serves cities in south China, including Hangzhou (¥68, regular), Nanjing (¥105, five daily), Nanxun (¥47, 11 daily, take the bus for Huzhou – ), Suzhou (¥38, regular), Wuzhen (¥49, 11 daily), Xitang (¥32, 12 daily) and Zhouzhuang (¥25, two daily).

Although it appears close to Shanghai Railway Station, the vast Shanghai Long-Distance Bus Station (Shanghai Changtu Qiche Keyun Zongzhan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6605 0000; www.kyzz.com.cn; 1666 Zhongxing Rd; 1666 mShanghai Railway Station) is a pain to get to, but has buses to everywhere, including very regular buses to Suzhou (¥38) and Hangzhou (¥68), as well as Nanjing (¥97, 12 daily), Zhouzhuang (¥25, six daily) and Beijing (¥354, 4pm). It’s easiest to catch a cab here.

Regular buses also depart for Hangzhou (¥100, two hours) and Suzhou (¥84, two hours) from Pudong International Airport. Buses for Hangzhou, Suzhou and a host of destinations also leave from the Hongqiao Long-Distance Bus Station (Changtu Keyun Hongqiaozhan ) at Hongqiao Airport Terminal 2.

From the Shanghai Sightseeing Bus Centre (Shanghai Luyou Jisan Zhongxin MAP GOOGLE MAP ) at Shanghai Stadium, you can join tours to Suzhou, Hangzhou, Tongli, Zhouzhuang, Zhujiajiao and other destinations around Shanghai.

SHaNGHaI BY BOAT

Shanghai Port International Cruise TerminalFERRY

(Shanghai Gang Guoji Keyun Zhongxin MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gaoyang Rd; )

Located north of the Bund and mostly serves cruise ships. A few international passenger routes serve Shanghai, with reservations recommended in July and August. Passengers must be at the harbour three hours before departure to get through immigration.

China-Japan International Ferry CompanyFERRY

(Zhongguo Guoji Lundu Youxian Gongsi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6595 6888, 6325 7642; www.chinajapanferry.com; 18th fl, Jin’an Bldg, 908 Dongdaming Rd, 908 tickets from ¥1300, plus ¥150 fuel surcharge)

Has staggered departures every week to either Osaka or Kobe (44 hours) in Japan on Saturdays at 12.30pm. Fares range from ¥1300 in an eight-bed dorm to ¥6500 in a deluxe twin cabin.

Shanghai International Ferry CompanyFERRY

(Shanghai Guoji Lundu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6595 8666; www.shanghai-ferry.co.jp/english/; 15th fl, Jin’an Bldg, 908 Dongdaming Rd; 908 tickets from ¥1300, plus ¥150 fuel surcharge)

Has departures to Osaka (44 hours) on Tuesdays at 11am. Fares range from ¥1300 in an eight-bed dorm to ¥6500 in a deluxe twin cabin.

Getting Around Shanghai

The best way to get around town is by taxi or metro. The rapidly expanding metro and light railway system works like a dream; it’s fast, efficient and inexpensive. Rush hour on the metro operates at overcapacity, however, and you get to savour the full meaning of the big squeeze. Taxis are ubiquitous and cheap, but flagging one down during rush hour or during a rainstorm requires staying power of a high order. With a wide-ranging web of routes, buses may sound tempting, but that’s before you try to decipher routes and stops or attempt to squeeze aboard during the crush hour. Buses also have to contend with the increasing solidity of Shanghai’s traffic, which can slow movement to an agonising crawl. Bicycles are good for small neighbourhoods but distances are too colossal for effective transport about town. Walking around Shanghai is only really possible within neighbourhoods, and even then the distances can be epic and tiring.

Bicycle

If you can handle the fumes and menace of Shanghai’s intimidating traffic, cycling is a good way to get around town, but you will need to link it in with public transport.

ABikes are banned from some major roads, so cyclists often surge down the pavements (sidewalks) of busy streets.

ACars will give you little room; if you’re new to Shanghai, allow a few days to adjust.

AMake sure that you have your own bicycle cable lock and try to leave your bike at bike parks (available at most shopping areas and subway stations for ¥0.50): an attendant will keep an eye on your wheels.

ACyclists never use lights at night and Chinese pedestrians favour dark clothing, so ride carefully.

Several hostels around town, including Le Tour Traveler’s Rest, can rent you a bike. You can buy a trashy mountain bike for as little as ¥250 to ¥300 at supermarkets and hypermarkets such as Carrefour. Purchased bikes need to be taxed, with a disc (available at bike shops) displayed. Factory Five (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://wearefactoryfive.com; 876 Jiangsu Rd; 876 h10.30am-9pm Tue-Fri, 1-7pm Sat-Sun; mJiangsu Rd) sells beautiful custom bikes and Giant (Jieante MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6426 5119; 666 Tianyaoqiao Rd; h9am-8pm)is one of China's largest chains for most of your biking needs. BOHDI and SISU also sell and rent quality bikes.

The city has a public bike-hire scheme called Forever Public Bike Hire Scheme (bikes per hour ¥4), launched for the World Expo in 2010. It's far more limited than the fantastic system in Hangzhou (the world's largest) and has not proved a success, especially for visitors due to registration difficulties, a lack of docking stations in tourist areas and a Chinese-language-only website. To register for a card (¥300 deposit and ¥100 credit), you will need to take your passport to the Xujiahui Tourist Information Center (Xujiahui Luyou Zixun Zhongxin MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1068 Zhaojiabang Rd; 1068 h9.30am-4.30pm) or the Wukang Road Tourist Information Center.

Boat

Ferries cross the Huangpu River between Puxi on the west bank and Pudong on the east. Most useful is the Jinling Rd Ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6326 2135; 127 East Zhongshan No 2 Rd; 127 one way ¥2), which operates between the southern end of the Bund and Dongchang Rd in Pudong, running every 15 minutes from 7am to 10pm. Tickets are sold at the kiosks out front. The Fuxing Road Ferry (Fuxing Lu Lunduzhan GOOGLE MAP ; one way ¥2) runs from Fuxing Rd north of the Cool Docks in the South Bund to Dongchang Rd. Ferries run every 10 to 20 minutes from 5am to 11pm.

Bus

Although sightseeing buses can be extremely handy, the huge Shanghai public bus system is unfortunately very hard for non-Chinese-speaking or -reading foreigners to use. Bus-stop signs and routes are in Chinese only. Drivers and conductors speak little, if any, English, although onboard announcements in English will alert you to when to get off. The conductor will tell you when your stop is arriving, if you ask. Bus stops are widely spaced and your bus can race past your destination and on to the next stop up to a kilometre away. Suburban and long-distance buses don’t carry numbers – the destination is in characters.

AAir-con buses (with a snowflake motif and the characters alongside the bus number) cost ¥2 to ¥3. The far rarer buses without air-con cost ¥1.5.

AFor buses without conductors, drop your cash into the slot by the driver. Always carry exact money; no change given.

AThe swipe-able Transport Card works on many but not all bus routes.

ATry to get on at the terminus (thus guaranteeing yourself a seat), avoid rush hours, and stick to a few tried-and-tested routes.

AIf you can't speak Chinese, have your destination written down in Chinese to show the driver, conductor or even a fellow passenger.

ABe alert to pickpockets, especially during the rush-hour squeeze.

ABuses generally operate from 5am to 11pm, except for 300-series buses, which operate all night.

AFor English-language bus routes in town, go to http://msittig.wubi.org/bus.

SIGHTSEEING BUSES

City Sightseeing BusesBUS

(Dushi Guanguang %40082 06222; www.springtour.com; tickets ¥30; h9am-8.30pm summer, to 6pm winter)

Tickets for the hop-on, hop-off, open-top buses last 24 hours. Besides enabling you to tour Shanghai’s highlights, they're a great way to get around the centre of town and Pudong. A recorded commentary runs in eight languages; just plug in your earphones (supplied). Buses have stops across central Shanghai, including the Bund, the Old Town and People’s Sq.

Big Bus ToursBUS TOUR

(Shanghai Guanguangche %6351 5988; www.bigbustours.com; adult/child US$48/32)

Operates hop-on, hop-off services, lassoing the sights along 22 stops across two routes. Tickets are valid for 48 hours and include a 90-minute boat tour of the Huangpu River, entry to the Jade Buddha Temple and admission to the 88th-floor observation tower of Jinmao Tower.

Car

It is possible to hire a car in Shanghai, but the bureaucratic hurdles are designed to deter would-be foreign drivers – you can’t simply pick up a car at Pudong International Airport and hit the road. You will need a temporary or long-term Chinese driving licence.

If your visa is for less than 90 days, Hertz (%6085 1900; www.hertzchina.com) or Avis (%6229 1118; www.avischina.com) can help you apply for a temporary Chinese driving licence, but this takes up to a week to arrange and includes a physical exam.

If your visa exceeds 90 days, you can apply for a long-term Chinese driving licence, but this takes up to a month to arrange and includes a theory text plus medical exam.

Residents can apply for a Chinese licence at their local Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gong'anju) or the Shanghai Transport Bureau (www.jt.sh.cn).

For most visitors, it is more advisable to hire a car and a driver. A Volkswagen Santana with driver and petrol starts at around ¥600 per day; it is likely to be cheaper to hire a taxi for the day. Ask for more information at your hotel.

Metro

The Shanghai metro (Shanghai Ditie www.shmetro.com) is fast, cheap, clean and easy, though hard to get a seat at the best of times (unless you get on at the terminus). The rush hour sees carriages filled to overcapacity, but trains are frequent and the system has been rapidly expanded to envelop more and more of the city.

AThere are 14 lines serving more than 300 stations with an extra 175km planned to be added to the network by 2015.

AMetro maps are available at most stations. The free tourist maps also have a small metro map printed on them, and there’s an English section on the metro website.

AMetro station exits can be confusing, so look for a street map (usually easy to find) in the ticket hall before exiting to get your bearings.

ATo find a metro station look for the red M.

AThe Explore Shanghai app helps you calculate how long your journey will take, how much it will cost and where the nearest metro station is.

Key Metro Lines

The most useful lines for travellers are 1, 2 and 10. Lines 1 and 2 connect at People’s Sq interchange, the city's busiest station. TV screens at stations count down the wait to the next train.

Line 1 (yihao xian) Runs from Fujin Rd in the north, through Shanghai Railway Station and People’s Sq, along Middle Huaihai Rd, through Xujiahui and Shanghai South Railway Station to Xinzhuang in the southern suburbs.

Line 2 (erhao xian) Runs from East Xujing in the west via Hongqiao Railway Station and Hongqiao International Airport terminal 2 to Pudong International Airport in the east, passing through Jing’an, People’s Sq, East Nanjing Rd (and the Bund district) in the centre of town, going under the Huangpu River and on to Longyang Rd, the site of the Maglev terminus, before terminating at Pudong International Airport.

Line 10 (shihao xian) Runs from Hongqiao Railway Station in the west through Hongqiao International Airport terminal 2 and terminal 1 before zipping through the French Concession, the Old Town, the Bund area and Hongkou before terminating at Xinjiangwancheng.

Fares & Tickets

ATickets range from ¥3 to ¥15, depending on the distance.

ATickets are generally only sold from coin- and note-operated machines.

AService counters will provide you with change if your bills are not accepted.

AKeep your ticket until you exit.

AWhen entering the metro, swipe your card across the turnstile sensor for access; when exiting, enter it into the slot, where it will be retained.

AThe rechargeable Transport Card can be used on the metro, some buses, ferries and all taxis.

AOne-day (¥18) and three-day travel passes (¥45) for use on the metro are available from service counters in stations.

AThere can be huge distances between different lines at interchange stations, such as between line 9 and 1 at Xujiahui station, so factor this into you journey time.

AA growing number of stations have coin-operated toilets.

TRANSPORT CARDS & TOURIST PASSES

If you are making more than a fleeting trip to Shanghai, it’s worth getting a Transport Card (Jiaotong Ka). Available at metro stations and some convenience stores, cards can be topped up with credit and used on the metro, some buses and ferries, and also in taxis. Credit is electronically deducted from the card as you swipe it over the sensor, equipped at metro turnstiles and near the door on buses; when paying your taxi fare, hand it to the taxi driver, who will swipe it. Cards don’t save you money, but will save you from queuing for tickets or hunting for change. A refundable deposit of ¥20 is required.

Other handy cards include a one-day tourist pass (¥18), which offers unlimited travel on the metro for one day, and the three-day travel pass (¥45), also for use on the metro system. Both passes are available at metro stations.

Operating Hours

There’s one main shortcoming to the metro system: it stops running relatively early in the night. Most lines begin their final run between 10pm and 10.30pm (some earlier), so anyone out later than 11pm will need to catch a cab home.

Taxi

Shanghai has around 45,000 taxis. Most are Volkswagen Santanas, some are Volkswagen Passats; there’s a fleet of Mercedes-Benz taxis and a 4000-strong fleet of spacious and comfortable white Volkswagen Touran taxis. Shanghai’s taxis are reasonably cheap, hassle-free and generally easy to flag down except during rush hour and in summer storms.

ADrivers can be inept at navigating, even to obvious places. Some stick to main roads and have little grasp of shortcuts. Avoid total novices by examining the number of stars below the driver’s photo on the dashboard; stars range from one to five in order of expertise (and English-language skills).

ATaxi drivers (mostly male) are mostly honest, but you should always go by the meter. The driver should push the meter down to start it when you get in the cab.

ATaxis may not have rear seatbelts, in which case sit up front.

ATaxis can’t take the tunnel to Lujiazui in Pudong from 8am to 9.30am and 5pm to 6.30pm.

AFares are metered. Flag fall is ¥14 for the first 3km, and ¥2.4 per kilometre thereafter; there is no need to tip. A ¥1 fuel surcharge is included in the price.

AA night rate operates from 11pm to 5am, when the flag fall is ¥18, then ¥3.10 per kilometre.

APay by cash (xianjin) or use a Transport Card.

AAt night you can tell if a taxi is empty by the red ‘for hire’ sign on the dashboard of the passenger side.

AAsk for a printed receipt, which gives the fare and the driver and car number, the distance travelled, waiting time and the number to call if there are any problems or if you left something in the taxi.

AIf you don’t speak Chinese, take a Chinese-character map, have your destination written down in characters or pack your destination’s business card. Alternatively, download the handy Shanghai Taxi Guide and Offline Maps app to show your driver your destination.

AUse your mobile to phone your local contact (or the 24-hour tourist hotline – 962 288) in Shanghai and ask him or her to give instructions to the driver.

AIt also helps if you have your own directions and sit in the front with a map, looking knowledgeable (to deter circuitous, looping detours).

AShanghai’s main taxi companies include turquoise-coloured Dazhong ( %96822), gold Qiangsheng ( %6258 0000) and green Bashi ( %96840).

AFor taxi complaints, phone 962 000.

AMotorcycle taxis wait at some intersections and metro stations to whisk travellers off to nearby destinations. Most trips cost less than ¥10.

Tours

Fun and handy bus tours of Shanghai that cover the top sights of Puxi and Pudong include City Sightseeing Buses and Big Bus Tours. Other intriguing tours include:

BOHDIBICYCLE TOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %5266 9013; www.bohdi.com.cn; tours ¥220)

Night-time cycling tours on Tuesdays from March to November and trips around the region.

China Cycle ToursTOUR

(%1376 111 5050; www.chinacycletours.com; half-day tours from ¥400)

City and rural tours in Shanghai and Suzhou.

Insiders Experience DRIVING TOUR

(%138 1761 6975; www.insidersexperience.com; from ¥800)

Fun motorcycle-sidecar tours of the city for up to two passengers, setting off from the Andaz in Xintiandi (but can pick up from anywhere, at extra cost).

Newman ToursTOUR

(Xinman %138 1777 0229; www.newmantours.com; from ¥190)

Bund tour, gangster tour, ancient Shanghai tour, ghost tour and a host of other informative and fun walking jaunts around the city. Also covers Hangzhou and Suzhou.

SISUBICYCLE TOUR

(%5059 6071; www.sisucycling.com; tours ¥150)

Night-time cycling tours on Wednesdays and trips out of town.