The Earthbound Cook

I REMEMBER WITNESSING THE FIRST TIME MY DAUGHTER, MAREA, DISCOVERED the wonders of the ocean. She was thirteen months old and her eyes were filled with the joy of a young child. As I watched her playing on the beach, I felt the strong pull to preserve this natural beauty. We pointed to the ocean and told her that was the fishes’ real home, creatures she had seen only in books or aquariums. For days, she kept saying, “Shhhhh, shhhh” and we soon realized that she wasn’t telling us to be quiet; she was saying “fish” and just couldn’t quite manage the “f” sound. After “mama” and “dada,” “fish” was her first word!

Many years later, that memory still reminds me of just how fragile our oceans are and how important it is to protect them for future generations. Watching a child dance on that boundary of land and water is a perfect image of the direct link between the health of our oceans and the health of all life on our planet.

The oceans supply more than 50 percent of the Earth’s oxygen—that’s more than 2½ times the amount produced by the rain forests. And like the rain forests, what we know about our oceans is dwarfed by what we’ve yet to discover. If our oceans continue to deteriorate, food sources, medicinal compounds, and vital knowledge about our planet are just a few of the things we could lose before we ever discover them.

Happily, one of the best ways to protect our oceans is by choosing environmentally responsible seafood. Like the organic movement, the sustainable seafood movement is profoundly influenced by consumer demand. Once we start asking for sustainable seafood and stop purchasing those foods that deplete species or damage our oceans, we are well on our way to reforming an entire industry and ensuring that our children and their children will inherit healthy oceans and bountiful sea life.

The recipes in this chapter represent a delicious variety of seafood flavors. For the most part, fish and shellfish are light, nutrition-rich, and very fast to prepare. This chapter has some wonderful recipes to try—with spices and condiments that will take your taste buds on a delicious world tour from Southeast Asia, to the Mediterranean, to Mexico. I’ve included simple, family-style favorites like Fish Tacos with freshly prepared Farm Stand Pico de Gallo. Or you can choose the unique flavors of a Seared Tuna with French Lentil Salad, which combines the extra flavor and nutrition of cumin-flavored lentils with the fresh taste of mint, offset by the white creaminess of crumbled feta cheese. One of my favorite recipes is the Coconut-Crusted Salmon, which combines heart-healthy omega-3-rich fish and a crispy light crust. Drizzle a bit of Coconut Chile Sauce over it for a dish you’ll want to make over and over again.

As with all cooking and eating, I urge you to be adventurous! Try the Mussels Provençal—a fast, easy, and nutritious meal that is also an excellent sustainable seafood choice. Mussels are one of the most environmentally friendly foods on the planet. They are generally produced using very low-impact aquaculture methods. They filter algae and other particles from the water, so their cultivation can actually improve water quality and the health of other species in that environment.

Making sustainable seafood choices can be confusing, so I’ve included a lot of information and resources in this chapter. With the help of the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program, I explain when (and why) farmed seafood is a bad choice and when it may be a good one. You’ll find out when to ask your grocery store or fish market where something comes from and also how it was caught, and when to avoid certain types of fish or shellfish entirely. You’ll also read about why frozen fish is often your best alternative with regard to both quality and environmental impact.

In many ways we are still at the frontier of a sustainable seafood revolution. Unlike organic foods, there is no central government certification agency for fish and shellfish, and many times where your seafood comes from and how it was caught is not readily apparent. There are, however, private sustainable seafood certification agencies—such as the Marine Stewardship Council—that are doing a very good job at setting standards for wild fisheries, encouraging consumer education, and promoting seafood eco-labeling (see page 144). As we become more knowledgeable about ocean issues and begin to demand sustainable choices, we have the ability to halt and reverse damaging practices and restore our oceans for generations to come.

images

Mussels Provençal (page 148)

Black Cod with Summer Succotash

BLACK COD IS THE COMMON NAME for the sleek, slender, coal-black sablefish, a species found in the North Pacific. The flesh ranges from ivory to pale tan and its texture is tender, moist, and flaky when cooked. This full-flavored, high-fat fish is very high in omega-3 fatty acids, which have been shown to have numerous health benefits. Black cod is similar in richness and sweet flavor to Chilean sea bass, but is a much more sustainable choice. It’s at its peak season in summer, so we’ve paired it here with a variation on the classic succotash. Served cold, our succotash makes a unique and interesting contrast with the hot fish, and the combination of fresh sweet corn, cucumbers, tomatoes, and basil is delicious and very healthy. Lima beans are traditional, but we prefer edamame (soybeans) because we like their bright green color and fresh, nutty flavor. When summer-ripe corn and tomatoes are not available, pair the fish with any vegetable of your choice, and serve it with Brown Rice with Barley (page 226). images Serves 4

4 skinless black cod fillets (6 ounces each)

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

½ teaspoon sweet paprika

Summer Succotash (recipe follows)

1. Dry the fish fillets with paper towels. Using your fingers, rub both sides of the fish with 2 teaspoons of the olive oil. Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides.

2. Stir the garlic powder, tarragon, and paprika together in a small bowl. Sprinkle all of this seasoning mixture on one side of each fillet.

3. Heat a cast-iron or heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil to the skillet. Arrange the fillets, spice mixture down, in the skillet, taking care not to crowd the pan. (If necessary, use two skillets.) Cook the fish for 3 minutes. Then flip the fillets over and continue cooking until they just firm up and the very last flakes on the tail end start to separate, 2 to 3 minutes. (Alternatively, the fish can be seared on one side, and finished in a 375°F oven.) When perfectly cooked, the fish will offer some resistance and will spring back when pressed with a fingertip. Avoid overcooking or the soft flesh will fall apart.

4. Top each fish fillet with a generous scoop of Summer Succotash, and serve immediately.

Summer Succotash

Sweet corn, nutty edamame, juicy tomatoes, and crunchy cucumber star in this colorful vegetable medley. It makes a terrific salsalike sauce for our black cod, and it is also a delicious side dish, great for a summer barbecue or picnic. Serves 4

Salt

1 cup shelled edamame, English peas, or fava beans, fresh or thawed if frozen

2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 3 large ears)

1½ cups diced peeled cucumber (¼-inch dice)

2 large Roma tomatoes, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1 cup)

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring 8 cups water to a boil in a covered saucepan over high heat. Stir in 1 tablespoon salt and the edamame. Cook, covered, for 2 minutes. Add the corn and remove the pan from the heat. Let the vegetables sit for 1 minute, and then drain them in a colander or sieve. Run cold water over the vegetables until they have cooled to room temperature; drain well.

2. Place the cucumber, tomatoes, olive oil, basil, and tarragon in a large mixing bowl. Add the edamame-corn mixture, stirring to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. The succotash can be refrigerated, covered, for 1 day.

YOUR GREEN KITCHEN: Tips on Buying Fresh Sustainable Seafood

Understanding how to select fresh, healthy, and sustainable seafood may seem like a daunting task, and it’s easy enough to feel overwhelmed at the fish counter. Maybe that helps to explain why more than half of Americans seldom, if ever, eat fish. This is a shame because fish is easy to cook at home, and can confer substantial health benefits. Here are a few simple guidelines to help you choose the best:

• Shop in markets that specialize in seafood and where fish is labeled with its country of origin, whether it is wild or farmed, and whether it is fresh or previously frozen.

• The store should be clean, with no unpleasant, fishy odors.

• Fish and shellfish should always be displayed on plenty of ice.

• Seafood should be moist and glistening, not dull and dry. Eyes should be clear and bright, and gills red or bright pink, not pale or brownish.

• Clams, oysters, and mussels should be tightly closed. Live bivalves will close their shells if they are touched. Discard any shellfish whose shells remain open when handled.

• Pre-packaged fish shouldn’t have pools of liquid in the package.

• Ask if the seafood you are buying is considered sustainable and if it has been caught or farmed in environmentally friendly ways. Your local fishmonger may be able to guide you. If not, refer to the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch guide for your area (visit www.SeafoodWatch.org to download their handy regional Seafood Watch pocket guides) or look for seafood that bears the seal of respected sustainable certifiers, such as the Marine Stewardship Council (see page 144).

White Fish with Green Sauce

THIS GREEN SAUCE IS AN ITALIAN-INSPIRED combination of herbs, capers, and anchovies that resembles pesto in color. However, it’s much lighter in texture and far less caloric than pesto, with a very clean, bright taste. It looks ordinary enough but it packs an astonishing amount of flavor, transforming any dish it encounters. You can adjust the ingredients to suit your taste—more or less of the anchovies, garlic, and capers. I love its versatility. Here I’ve used it as a topping for Pacific cod, a white-fleshed fish that has a mild flavor and a firm flake. Although the Atlantic cod is now seriously depleted through overfishing, its U.S.-caught Pacific cousin is relatively abundant in Alaskan waters and is your most sustainable choice. The green herb sauce is terrific with other lean white fish, such as catfish, halibut, striped bass, or white sea bass. I also like it tossed with hot pasta for a quick and simple side dish. Serves 4

Basil sprig

GREEN SAUCE

3 cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves

3 cups lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

5 canned anchovy fillets

2 tablespoons small capers, rinsed

1 medium-size garlic clove, peeled

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

4 to 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

FISH

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 skinless Pacific cod fillets (about 6 ounces each)

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Prepare the sauce: Place the basil, parsley, anchovies, capers, garlic, and lemon juice in a blender or food processor and process until the mixture forms a coarse puree, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl once or twice.

2. With the machine running, slowly add the olive oil to make a smooth puree. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months.)

3. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F.

4. Prepare the fish: Add the olive oil to an ovenproof skillet (preferably cast-iron). Arrange the fish fillets in the skillet so that they are not touching. Spread a generous amount of Green Sauce over each fillet.

5. Roast until the fish is just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve hot, with lemon wedges alongside.

making sustainable: seafood choices

As consumers, we can have a big impact on the fishing industry and the health of our oceans by using our buying power to choose fish that are caught or farmed in ways that don’t harm the environment. Choosing fish from sustainably managed fisheries, and avoiding fish from those that aren’t, will help protect fish species that are in trouble. The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch guides offer many sustainable seafood choices; specific guides covering many different geographic regions are available at their website (see below).

Here are four issues that help conservation groups determine how sustainable a fish is.

1. Overfishing Overfishing means that we are catching certain species of fish faster than they can reproduce. Large-scale ocean fishing operations are changing the balance of marine ecosystems to the point that many species—especially the most commercially popular fish—have been overfished, and their numbers are very low. By most estimates, nearly 75 percent of the world’s fisheries are either fully fished or overfished. Examples of overfished species include Atlantic cod, bluefin tuna, sharks, and many kinds of West Coast rockfish.

2. Bycatch According to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, one in four marine animals caught in fishing gear dies as bycatch. Tons of fish are tossed out, dead or dying, because they’re not what the fishermen want to take to market. And not only fish are killed as bycatch: dolphins, sea turtles, sea birds, and whales are also accidentally caught and drowned by some fishing methods. Bycatch not only affects the animals that are caught and die, it also ends up taking food away from tuna, salmon, swordfish, dolphins, sea lions, and other ocean wildlife.

3. Habitat Damage Fish and shellfish need a healthy habitat in which to feed and reproduce. One of the fishing practices that most damages marine habitat is bottom trawling, or dragging the ocean floor to catch fish. This is the ocean equivalent to strip mining on land, leaving a bare, sterile seafloor that is unable to support life. Fishing methods that spare the seafloor—such as hook-and-line fishing and trap fishing—do much less damage to habitat than bottom trawling or dragging.

4. Aquaculture (farmed fish) Because we are overfishing wild species of fish, some people look to farmed fish (aquaculture) to fill the gap. But fish farms can also cause serious environmental problems. Some fish farms are responsibly and sustainably run; some are not. See page 145 for more information about aquaculture.

As consumers, we need to make wise choices when buying fish and shellfish. One of the best ways to remove the motivation for ecologically destructive fishing and farming practices is to stop buying irresponsibly caught or farmed seafood. Together we can make a real difference. Shop for fish in stores you know and trust. Ask questions about what you’re buying at the market and what you’re ordering at restaurants. Stay informed. You can also look for seafood that bears the seal of respected sustainable certifiers, such as the Marine Stewardship Council (see page 144).

The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program provides authoritative, handy guides for selecting environmentally sustainable seafood. The guides also incorporate information to help consumers avoid fish that may be contaminated by pollutants. Visit these websites for current information and for downloadable regional pocket guides for buying seafood that’s good for you and for our planet:

• www.SeafoodWatch.org

• www.edf.org (Environmental Defense Fund)

• www.oceana.org

Herb-Crusted Halibut with Tomato-Caper Sauce

Herb-Crusted Halibut with Tomato-Caper Sauce

HALIBUT IS A WONDERFUL FISH that is still plentiful in the northern Pacific waters. It is low-fat, with very white flesh that is firm and mild-flavored, and is available fresh year-round in most areas, as well as frozen. Sold in either fillets or steaks, it is very versatile and can be prepared in any manner. I like this simple treatment, where a light dusting of herbs and bread crumbs creates a thin crust. The sauce—made with wine, tomatoes, and capers—has a rich, luscious texture. Serves 4

½ cup fine dry bread crumbs

3 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 cups dry white wine

2 tablespoons chopped shallots

6 fresh tarragon sprigs

¾ cup heavy (whipping) cream

¼ cup peeled, seeded, and finely diced tomatoes (see sidebar, this page)

3 tablespoons capers, drained

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 skinless Pacific halibut fillets (about 6 ounces each)

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons canola oil

1. Place the bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon of the minced tarragon, and the parsley in a small bowl and stir to combine. Set aside.

2. Combine the wine, shallots, and tarragon sprigs in a small pan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, uncovered, at a slow simmer until the liquid has reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 20 minutes. Add the heavy cream and cook over medium heat until the sauce has reduced by half, 5 to 8 minutes.

3. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Discard the solids and return the sauce to a clean pan. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons minced tarragon, the tomatoes, and the capers. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep the sauce warm while you cook the halibut.

4. Position a rack in the middle of the oven, and preheat the oven to 375°F.

5. Sprinkle both sides of the halibut fillets with the lemon juice and season them with salt and pepper. Spread the bread crumb mixture on a plate and dip one side (only) of each fillet into the crumbs, pressing lightly so they adhere.

6. Heat the canola oil in a large ovenproof skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium-high heat. Arrange the fish fillets, crumbed side down, in the skillet, making sure not to crowd the pan. Cook the fillets until the crumbs are golden, 2 to 3 minutes.

7. Carefully turn the fillets over and transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake until the fillets are just opaque and can be flaked with a fork, 4 to 6 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish.

8. Serve the fillets warm, drizzled with the sauce.

six reasons to protect our oceans

Unless you live by the coast, it can be easy to forget about the oceans and why their health is so important to us. So here’s a reminder.

1. The ocean produces roughly half of the Earth’s oxygen.

Ocean plants (especially floating single-celled phytoplankton) provide more oxygen than the rain forests.

2. The ocean absorbs carbon emissions from our atmosphere—an estimated 22 million tons a day!

During photosynthesis, phytoplankton remove carbon dioxide (CO₂) from seawater and release oxygen as a by-product. This allows the oceans to absorb additional carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. If fewer phytoplankton existed, atmospheric carbon dioxide would build up at a faster rate.

3. The ocean provides most of our fresh water.

Although we don’t usually think of our oceans as drinking water, they contain roughly 97 percent of the water on the planet. When ocean water evaporates, it returns to the planet surface as rain or other types of precipitation, leaving the salt behind.

4. The ocean is the Earth’s climate control.

Our oceans are actually one interconnected body of water. This water circulates around the globe, moving from shallow to deep waters and back again, spreading the heat from the sun throughout the entire planet. Without such perpetual motion, the blistering heat delivered daily to the tropics would render them uninhabitable, and the rapid spread of ice caps from the North and South Poles would bring harsher weather to both northern and southern latitudes.

5. The ocean is a major source of food and jobs.

Fish from the ocean are the primary source of protein for one in six people on Earth. In addition, nearly a million people in the U.S. have jobs that directly depend on the ocean.

6. The ocean provides medicines and the promise of knowledge for the future.

Researchers have developed anti-leukemia drugs from sea sponges, bone-graft materials from coral, and anti-infection agents from shark skin, to name a few medical gifts from the sea. And there is still so much in the oceans that is unexplored and undiscovered. Like the rain forests, our oceans hold the promise of many compounds that exist nowhere else on Earth; the loss of undiscovered ocean creatures and their habitats would be incalculable.

Yogurt-Marinated Mahi Mahi with Curry and Herbs

A SIMPLE MARINADE MADE WITH YOGURT, FRESH LEMON, HERBS, and spices imparts a complex and intriguing taste to the firm, flavorful flesh of this warm-water fish. Just a short period of marinating produces moist, tender fish with flavors reminiscent of Indian tandoori oven cooking. Try this marinade with other firm fish such as Pacific halibut, striped bass, and wild salmon, or even with chicken. Serve the mahi mahi with your favorite rice pilaf and a simple salad for a satisfying meal that’s both healthy and delicious. Serves 4

2 teaspoons canola oil

1 cup plain nonfat yogurt

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon minced fresh dill

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon curry powder, preferably Madras

½ teaspoon sweet paprika

1½ pounds skinless, boneless U.S.-caught mahi mahi, cut into 4 pieces

1. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a piece of parchment paper, and brush the paper with the canola oil. Set aside.

2. Combine the yogurt, lemon juice, cilantro, dill, salt, curry powder, and paprika in a medium-size bowl and whisk to blend.

3. Dip each piece of mahi mahi into the yogurt mixture, coating the fish on all sides. Transfer the fish pieces to the prepared baking sheet, and pour any excess marinade over the fish. Marinate in the refrigerator for 20 to 30 minutes.

4. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

5. Bake the mahi mahi until it is cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish. Serve hot, with the pan juices on the side.

Coconut-Crusted Salmon

THIS IS THE KIND OF CRUSTED FISH DISH that’s seen on menus at high-end restaurants, yet this recipe is surprisingly easy. It’s quick enough to whip up any time you crave a special treat—or want to impress dinner guests. The Asian-inspired crisp topping of coconut and Japanese tempura-style bread crumbs contrasts beautifully with the flaky, nutrition-rich salmon. This is the perfect time to use your favorite cast-iron skillet, which will go seamlessly from stovetop to oven. A light drizzle of our Coconut Chile Sauce makes a beautiful presentation and tastes sublime. Serves 6

½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut (see sidebar, page 139)

¼ cup panko (see sidebar, this page)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 skinless salmon fillets (6 ounces each), preferably wild, pinbones removed

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons peanut oil

Coconut Chile Sauce (page 416, optional)

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

2. Combine the shredded coconut, panko, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in a small bowl. Toss well, and then spread the mixture on a plate.

3. Brush the top side of the salmon fillets with the lime juice. Lightly season the fish with salt and pepper. One piece at a time, dip the top side of each fillet in the coconut-panko mixture, making sure the surface is coated. Pat the mixture onto the fish, if necessary.

4. Set a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, preferably cast-iron, over medium heat. When the skillet is hot, add the peanut oil. Arrange half of the salmon fillets, coconut side down, in the skillet and cook for 3 minutes to sear the fish and brown the topping. Carefully flip the fish over and cook on the other side for 3 minutes. Using a spatula, transfer the fish to a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining 3 fillets.

5. Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and bake until the salmon is just firm to the touch and the interior is nearly opaque but still moist, 2 to 4 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish. (Alternatively, use an instant-read thermometer; the fish is done when the thermometer registers 130°F when inserted into the thickest part of a fillet.)

6. Place each fillet of salmon on a warmed plate. Drizzle with Coconut Chile Sauce, if using, and serve.

Coconut-Crusted Salmon

Seared Salmon with Chipotle-Lime Butter

I LOVE DISHES THAT ARE QUICK TO COOK, full of flavor, and good for you. This simply seared salmon fits all three criteria. A 1-hour marinade in fresh citrus juice balances any hint of fishy flavor the salmon may have, and the fillets sear up beautifully in a hot cast-iron skillet. The Chipotle-Lime Butter adds a bit of heat and a touch of richness to the fish, but it’s completely optional. I recommend serving the salmon with rice and some Grilled Corn Salsa for a great mix of flavors, colors, and textures. images Serves 4

½ jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

4 teaspoons canola oil

4 skinless salmon fillets (6 ounces each), preferably wild, pinbones removed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chipotle-Lime Butter (recipe follows, optional)

Grilled Corn Salsa (page 419, optional)

1. Place the jalapeño, lemon and lime juices, and 2 teaspoons of the canola oil in a glass baking dish or shallow bowl. Add the salmon and turn the fish to coat all surfaces with the marinade. Let it rest at room temperature for 1 hour.

2. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until it is very hot. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons canola oil to the skillet. Remove the salmon from the marinade, reserving the marinade. Season both sides of the fillets with salt and pepper.

3. Arrange the fish in the skillet so that the pieces do not touch. Cook the salmon until the flesh is golden on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Then turn the fillets over, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the salmon is almost cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes, depending on the fillets’ thickness. Add the reserved marinade and cook until it reduces to a glaze, about 1 minute.

4. Top each fillet with a teaspoon or more of Chipotle-Lime Butter, if using, and serve immediately with Grilled Corn Salsa, if desired.

Chipotle-Lime Butter

Simple to make, compound butters are a terrific way to add flavor and spice to many different dishes. Start with soft butter and mix in fresh or dried chopped herbs, minced garlic, grated citrus zest, or spices for whatever flavors strike your fancy. Here we’ve used smoky chipotle chiles combined with lime to create a zesty butter that melts and forms a simple sauce for the salmon. Compound butters can be frozen for several months, so keep it handy to dress up fish, poultry, meat, or vegetables. images Makes about ⅓ cup

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoon finely minced chipotles in adobo sauce (see sidebar, page 418), plus 1½ teaspoons of the adobo sauce

Grated zest of 1 lime

1 teaspoon salt

1. Using a fork, blend the butter, chipotles, adobo sauce, lime zest, and salt in a small bowl. Use within an hour, or see Step 2.

2. If you are not planning to use the butter within an hour, transfer it to a piece of parchment paper that is about 8 inches long, form it into a cylinder, and roll it up securely; refrigerate the butter until firm. (It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap the butter in a second layer of plastic wrap or in aluminum foil and freeze it for up to 3 months.) To serve the chilled butter, unwrap it, and using a sharp knife that has been dipped in hot water, cut as many slices as you need. Return any leftover butter to the refrigerator or freezer.

Thai-Style Salmon Cakes

SALMON CAKES WITH NO BREAD CRUMBS IN SIGHT! This recipe uses fresh salmon that is finely chopped and combined with an array of ingredients that are the hallmark of Thai cuisine: ginger, lemongrass, chiles, fish sauce, and curry paste. The moist, vibrantly flavorful cakes are bound with egg white, which makes them delicately textured and melt-in-your-mouth tender. Be sure to allow time for the salmon mixture to refrigerate for at least an hour; this lets the flavors develop and makes the delicate mixture easier to handle. Tasty enough to stand on their own, the salmon cakes are also delicious served with a drizzle of Coconut Chile Sauce or with a dash of sweet chili sauce. Makes 8 cakes; serves 8 as an appetizer or 2 as an entrée

12 ounces skinless salmon fillet, preferably wild, pinbones removed

1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1 stalk lemongrass (pale, tender part only), very finely chopped (see sidebar, page 19)

1 garlic clove, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon sweet chili sauce, such as sriracha (a hot and slightly sweet condiment prized in Thai and Vietnamese cuisine)

1 tablespoon fish sauce (see box, page 156)

1 teaspoon red curry paste

1 large egg white

¼ cup minced scallions (white part and 2 inches of green)

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon finely minced jalapeño pepper, seeds removed, or to taste

½ cup canola oil, or more as needed

Lime wedges, for garnish

Coconut Chile Sauce (page 416, optional)

THE BASICS: Thai Curry Pastes

There are a number of different types of Thai curry paste, but the most common ones are red and green. Based on a blend of fresh chiles and other spices and herbs, they tend to be very hot and aromatic. Green curry paste generally contains green chiles, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, lemongrass, ginger, galangal, garlic, onion, and shrimp paste, along with some other ingredients. Red curry paste is based on a puree of red chiles, which gives it its distinctive color, with the addition of kaffir lime leaves, turmeric, cinnamon, and peppercorns. The degree of heat of the curry paste depends on the variety of chile that is used. Thai chiles, both red and green, in general pack a fiery punch, so a little curry paste goes a long way.

1. Cut the salmon into 1-inch pieces and place them in a food processor. Pulse until the fish is coarsely ground. (Alternatively, you can chop the fish by hand.) Transfer the salmon to a large bowl and add the ginger, lemongrass, garlic, sweet chili sauce, fish sauce, curry paste, egg white, scallions, lime juice, and jalapeño. Stir thoroughly to combine. The mixture will be very wet. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 1 hour, or up to 8 hours.

2. Heat the oil in a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, drop ½-cupfuls of the salmon mixture into the pan. Lightly flatten each cake with the back of a spoon so that they are ⅓-inch thick. (If necessary, work in batches so the salmon cakes do not touch.) Cook until the bottom is golden brown, about 4 minutes. Turn the cakes over and cook until golden brown and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with several thicknesses of paper towels.

3. Serve hot or warm, with lime wedges on the side and drizzled with Coconut Chile Sauce, if desired.

Fish Tacos with All the Fixins

FISH TACOS ARE A FUN, casual, do-it-yourself kind of meal and are the perfect menu for an informal get-together. Just double or triple the recipe to accommodate a crowd. I marinate and cook the fish, then set out the cheese, cabbage, Pico de Gallo, and warm tortillas. Other accompaniments such as guacamole, sour cream, rice, beans, coleslaw, or Grilled Corn Salsa (page 419) can also be offered. Everyone makes their own creation, adding what they like. Tilapia is an excellent choice for tacos and if it’s U.S. farmed, it’s also one of the most sustainable species you can buy. The white to pink flesh is sweet, mild-tasting, and very fine-textured. A classic citrus marinade keeps the fish moist and succulent, and is then used to sauté the onions, caramelizing them in a most delicious way. images Serves 4 (2 tacos per person)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced

1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ large yellow onion, thinly sliced

1 pound (about 4) skinless tilapia fillets

1 tablespoon canola oil, plus more for warming the tortillas

8 corn tortillas

1 cup (3 ounces) shredded cheddar cheese

2 cups thinly shredded green cabbage or romaine lettuce

1 cup Farm Stand Pico de Gallo (page 421)

images

Farm Stand Pico de Gallo and Grilled Corn Salsa

1. Place the olive oil, lime and orange juices, garlic, oregano, and onion slices in a medium-size bowl and stir to combine. Place the fish fillets in a shallow glass baking dish and add the marinade mixture, turning the fish so that all surfaces are coated. Cover the dish and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. Heat the canola oil in a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium-high heat. Remove the fish from the marinade, reserving the marinade (including the onions). Arrange the fish in the skillet in a single layer; do not crowd the fish or it will steam. Cook for 3 minutes. Then carefully flip the fish over and cook on the second side until it is done, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the fish to a platter and keep it warm.

3. Add the marinade, with the onions, to the skillet and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are caramelized and tender, about 7 minutes. Set aside.

4. To warm the tortillas, lightly film a skillet with canola oil, and place it over medium heat. Sprinkle the tortillas lightly with water, and stack one tortilla on top of another in the skillet, using 2 tortillas per stack. Heat them for 1 minute, then flip them over and warm the other side. Remove the tortillas from the skillet, cover them with a towel to keep them warm, and repeat with the remaining tortillas.

5. Break the fish into pieces. Set out the warm tortillas, caramelized onions, cheese, cabbage, Pico de Gallo, and fish for your guests to create their own tacos.

Fish Tacos topped with Grilled Corn Salsa

Linguine with Spinach, Tuna, and Bacon

THIS IS PAM’S ALL-TIME FAVORITE PASTA RECIPE. It was taught to her by her friend Pete Johnson. She calls it “Pete’s Pasta.” Don’t be deterred by the unusual combination of spinach, tuna, and bacon, because the resulting dish is utterly delicious; the cooking technique allows the ingredients to meld together in an amazing way. We suggest using pole-caught albacore tuna packed in oil rather than other varieties, because albacore tuna is considered one of the best choices for ocean sustainability by the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch. Serves 2 to 3

Salt

10 ounces dry linguine or spaghetti

4 strips thick-sliced bacon, cut into ½-inch squares

2 tablespoons olive oil

Dried red pepper flakes, to taste

4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

⅓ cup dry white wine

1 can (6 ounces) pole-caught albacore tuna in oil, drained (see sidebar, this page)

1 pound fresh baby spinach, well rinsed and dried if not prewashed

Shaved or grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1. Bring a large covered pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon salt to the water, add the linguine, and cook, uncovered, until it is al dente, about 9 minutes.

2. While the pasta is cooking, place the bacon, olive oil, and red pepper flakes in a large skillet (preferably nonstick), and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisp. Add the garlic to the skillet and cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes.

3. Add the wine and raise the heat to medium-high. Stir in the tuna and the spinach, and cook until the spinach wilts, 6 to 8 minutes (it may be necessary to add the spinach in batches, adding more as it cooks down).

4. By this time the linguine should be ready. Using tongs, transfer the pasta to the skillet; reserve ¾ cup of the pasta cooking water. Cook the pasta-tuna mixture for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly, so that the pasta absorbs the oil in the skillet. Add some of the reserved pasta water if the mixture seems dry.

5. Divide the pasta among warmed bowls, and garnish with Parmesan cheese if desired. Serve hot.

YOUR GREEN KITCHEN: Choosing Sustainable Tuna

When purchasing tuna, it’s helpful to know which species are environmentally sustainable and which are highly endangered. Troll- or pole-caught albacore is your best choice. Ahi tuna, or yellowfin as it is also called, is considered a good alternative if it is troll- or pole-caught. Avoid bluefin tuna because it’s in such high demand that its population has severely declined. Any tuna species caught on long-lines is not considered sustainable and should be avoided. Unfortunately, other than the premium pole-caught tuna products, this information is generally not readily available to consumers, so ask your fishmonger to be sure you know what you’re buying.

Seared Tuna with French Lentil Salad

Seared Tuna with French Lentil Salad

THIS RECIPE IS ONE OF MY FAVORITES—I love the way the tuna pairs with the healthy, flavorful lentil salad. The lentils are moistened with a delicious cumin-spiced vinaigrette and studded with sweet roasted peppers, salty feta cheese, and the bright zing of fresh mint. The aromatic flavor of cumin is echoed in the tuna—the vinaigrette does double duty as a marinade for the fish. Cumin is the predominant flavor, so if you’re not a big fan, reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon. The salad can be served warm or at room temperature—it’s up to you. You can make the salad up to a day ahead: refrigerate it, covered, and then bring it to room temperature before serving. Serves 4

CUMIN VINAIGRETTE

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ tablespoon ground cumin

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

TUNA AND LENTILS

1½ pounds fresh tuna, preferably pole-caught albacore (see sidebar, page 141), cut 1½ inches thick

1½ cups French lentils (see sidebar, page 144), rinsed

Salt

4 cups cold water

1 cup diced roasted red peppers (¼-inch dice; see page 411)

1 cup thinly sliced scallions (white and light green parts)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

½ cup (about 2 ounces) crumbled feta cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

About 2 teaspoons olive oil

1. Prepare the vinaigrette: Place the lemon and orange juices, the oil, and the cumin in a glass jar and seal the lid tightly. Shake the jar vigorously to combine. Season the dressing with salt and pepper to taste. (The vinaigrette can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 2 weeks. Let it return to room temperature and shake before using.)

2. Prepare the tuna and lentils: Place the tuna in a shallow pan and brush all sides with about 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette. Cover the pan and let the tuna marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.

3. Meanwhile, place the lentils, 2 teaspoons salt, and the cold water in a medium-size saucepan. Cover the pan and bring to the start of a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low to maintain a simmer, and cook the lentils, stirring occasionally, until they are tender, 25 to 35 minutes.

A Tuna Reminder

On a health note, albacore tuna has high levels of heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids, but is also rated as having moderate levels of mercury. Large species of fish are the most likely to bio-accumulate higher levels of mercury. This means that because environmental mercury from land-based sources accumulates in smaller fish, and these smaller fish are eaten by larger fish, mercury is accumulating at a more concentrated level in the flesh of larger carnivorous fish. A U.S. National Academy of Sciences report in 2000 concluded that for the majority of people, the risk of harm from eating fish was low; however, the dangers of mercury exposure to pregnant women, infants, and children should not be minimized. Although tuna is delicious, it’s best to enjoy eating it only a few times a month. Children under six years of age and pregnant women should avoid tuna altogether—both canned and fresh.

4. Drain the lentils and transfer them to a medium-size bowl. Let them cool slightly. Then add the red peppers, scallions, and mint, and toss to combine. After the salad has cooled to warm, add the feta (if the lentils are still hot, the cheese will melt).

5. Add ⅓ cup of the cumin vinaigrette to the lentil mixture, tossing to combine. Add more vinaigrette if desired, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Keep the salad warm.

6. Discard the marinade, and season the tuna on both sides with salt and pepper.

7. Place a cast-iron skillet over high heat and when it is hot, add the olive oil (enough to film the bottom of the pan). Reduce the heat to medium and add the tuna. Cook the fish for 3 minutes. Then turn the tuna over and cook until it reaches the desired degree of doneness, 3 to 4 minutes for medium-rare.

8. Immediately transfer the tuna to a cutting board. Let it rest for 2 to 3 minutes while you divide the lentil salad among four plates. Cut the tuna into ½-inch-thick slices, and arrange them on top of the lentil salad. Drizzle each serving with some of the remaining vinaigrette, and serve.

to farm or: not to farm fish

The Answer Is Sometimes Yes and Sometimes No …

The United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) estimates that more than 70 percent of the world’s wild fish stocks are now fully fished, overfished, or depleted. Many believe that aquaculture—the practice of raising (farming) fish in enclosed ocean pens or freshwater ponds or tanks—is needed to fill the gap and to meet the shortfall of seafood in future decades. But a fish farming operation’s positive or negative impact on the environment depends on the fish or shellfish being raised, how they are raised, what they are fed, and where the farm is located. There are pros and cons to farmed fish; when you know the issues, you can make informed purchases.

An Example of Aquaculture at Its Worst

Farmed salmon that is raised in open-water pens can pose serious environmental threats: pollution and disease from overcrowded farms; escape of farmed fish that then compete with wild fish populations; use of antibiotics, colorants, and other chemicals; and inefficient use of wild fish for food.

Some Examples of Aquaculture at Its Best

Responsible fish farming practices exist, and they tend to take advantage of the animals’ natural traits. For example, bivalve shellfish like clams, mussels, scallops, and oysters feed by filtering algae and other microorganisms from the water and help keep water clean—a benefit to the surrounding environment.

Inland fish farms with closed systems of recirculating water are also a good form of aquaculture, particularly if the fish receive a grain-based diet that includes little or no wild fish. Tilapia, catfish, and carp are all currently being sustainably farmed in land-based tanks. Not far behind are inland farms that raise trout, char, sturgeon, and U.S.-farmed freshwater Coho salmon. These fish require a diet of grain and wild fish, but producers are constantly working to decrease the amount of wild fish in their food.

Pros of Fish Farming:

• It can be a viable source of fish protein for much of an ever-expanding global population.

• It relieves pressure and demand on stocks of over-exploited wild fish, allowing species to recover.

• Aquaculture is an important part of the economy in many developing nations.

• Farmed fish is widely available and reasonably priced.

Cons of Fish Farming:

• Carnivorous species are raised on fish meal made from decreasing stocks of smaller wild fish.

• Some aquaculture operations are managed poorly, resulting in a range of environmental problems.

• When fish are raised in open-water pens, harmful organisms can migrate from farmed species to wild fish, and non-native species escape to compete with and contaminate wild populations.

• Some large industrial fish-farming operations set prices so low that sustainable fisheries and fish-farming operations have difficulty competing in the marketplace.

Resources:

Monterey Bay Aquarium:

www.seafoodwatch.org

Oceana:

www.oceana.org

Cal’s Dungeness Crab Salad with Persimmon “Carpaccio”

CAL STAMENOV, CHEF AT BERNARDUS LODGE IN CARMEL VALLEY, California, created this elegant dish in which crab and persimmon co-star in a visually stunning salad that’s full of surprises. The crab is dressed with a simple citrus vinaigrette. A puddle of ginger aioli hides beneath a circle of thinly sliced persimmons—a “carpaccio” of fruit. The ginger in the creamy aioli contributes a subtle heat, and the persimmons balance the acidity of the vinaigrette. The sum of all the elements results in a complexity of flavors and textures in a dish that’s light and extremely fresh.

For an artful presentation, the crabmeat should be in large pieces, so use the claws and larger legs and save the remaining smaller crab legs and the meat from the bodies for another use, such as the Dungeness Crab Bisque on page 16. Or you can blend the leftover crab with some of the unused Ginger Aioli to make a quick crab cocktail. Be sure to save all of the shells to make Crab Stock (page 17), so that none of the crab is wasted. images 4 Serves

YUZU VINAIGRETTE

Finely grated zest of 2 yuzu (see sidebar, facing page) or limes

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, or more if needed (see Step 1)

1 tablespoon yuzu or lime juice

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons fruity extra-virgin olive oil

GINGER AIOLI

2 teaspoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 teaspoons soy sauce

½ cup mayonnaise

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

4 cooked Dungeness crabs, about 1¾ pounds each (see Note)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 ripe Hachiya persimmons, or 2 ripe mangos

3 ounces (about 4 cups) mâche (see sidebar, this page)

1. Prepare the vinaigrette: Combine the yuzu zest, lemon and yuzu juices, and a pinch of salt and pepper in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Taste, and add more oil or salt and pepper as required. (If you’re not using yuzu juice, increase the amount of lemon juice by 1 teaspoon to approximate the same acidity level.) Set the vinaigrette aside at room temperature.

2. Prepare the Ginger Aioli: Combine the ginger, lime juice, soy sauce, and mayonnaise in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate it, covered, while you proceed with the recipe. (The aioli can be made 1 day in advance.)

3. Remove the two claws from each crab. Cut off the small knuckles at the joint where they attach to the main claw; save these small pieces for making crab stock. Using a wooden mallet or a small hammer, very lightly tap the shells of the crab claws until they crack in several places, taking care not to smash the meat in the process. Bend each small pincer claw away from its larger counterpart until it snaps; then very gently twist it in order to release the tiny piece of crab inside the shell. Carefully extract the claw meat from the broken shells. Set the crabmeat aside while you work on the legs.

4. Remove the four largest (front) legs from the crabs. For this recipe, use only the largest segments, those closest to the body. Cut off the lower, smaller pieces at the first joint and save them for another use. Tap the shells of the larger leg pieces as you did for the claws, and carefully extract the fingers of meat. Add the leg meat to the claw meat, cover, and refrigerate. Each salad should have 6 whole pieces of crab: 2 claws and 4 leg pieces.

5. Place the crab in a medium-size bowl and season lightly with salt and pepper. Whisk the vinaigrette and pour it over the crab. Very gently blend the ingredients with a rubber spatula, taking care not to break the crab pieces.

6. Cut off and discard the top (the stem end) of the persimmons. Remove the skin from the fruit with a vegetable peeler. Cut the persimmons crosswise into thin slices, ⅛ to ¼ inch thick.

7. To assemble the salads, place a generous dollop of Ginger Aioli in the center of each plate. Spread the sauce out into a 3-inch round. Arrange a layer of mâche leaves on top of the sauce, leaving a small round of aioli uncovered in the center. Arrange 5 slices of persimmon on top of the mâche, overlapping the pieces slightly to create a circle of fruit. The aioli will be covered, except for a small area in the center.

8. Arrange 3 pieces of crab on top of the persimmons in the center of the circle. (Use any less-than-perfect pieces on this bottom layer.) Top with 3 more pieces of crab. Serve immediately.

Note: With the exception of soft-shell blue crabs, fresh crab generally comes to the market in cooked form. If you do find it live (your best bet is in Chinese markets in major cities), ask the fishmonger to cook, clean, and crack the crab for you.

Mussels Provençal

MUSSELS ARE NOT DIFFICULT OR TIME-CONSUMING TO COOK. They are also one of the most sustainable seafood choices you can make. A bowl of steaming mussels makes a great first course, or you can pair them with a big green salad and a loaf of crusty garlic bread for a light supper. The secret to this dish is the very tasty broth—a combination of butter, wine, and Pernod. Pernod is a French liqueur with a light anise (licorice) flavor. Unfortunately, it’s expensive and has few other uses in cooking. The mussels will still be good without the liqueur, but if you plan on making this dish fairly often, consider adding Pernod to your liquor cabinet. Serves 4

3 pounds mussels

1 cup dry white wine

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced

⅓ cup thinly sliced leek (white and light green parts only)

2 small ripe tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1 cup)

2 tablespoons Pernod (optional)

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, cut into 4 pieces

3 tablespoons finely minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

THE BASICS: Debearding Mussels

Some mussels have stringlike fibers protruding from their shells. These fibers are linked to the interior flesh of the mussel and are what help attach the shellfish to surfaces underwater. Remove the beards right before cooking. Holding the shell in one hand and grasping the beard with the fingers of your other hand, pull the beard quickly and firmly toward the hinge of the mussel. If the beard is particularly recalcitrant, cut it by gently scraping along the edge of the shell with a small sharp knife.

1. Scrub the mussels in cold water and scrape off any hairy fibers with a small knife.

2. Place the wine, garlic, and leek in a saucepan that is large enough to hold the mussels. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes.

3. Add the mussels and cover the pan tightly. Cook for 4 minutes. Then add the tomatoes, Pernod if using, butter, parsley, and tarragon. Continue to cook, uncovered, until the broth has reduced by about half and the mussels are open, about 5 minutes.

4. Remove the mussels with tongs and divide them among four warmed bowls. Discard any mussels that have not opened. Return the saucepan to high heat and reduce the broth to concentrate the flavors, about 2 minutes. Season the broth with salt and pepper to taste, pour it over the mussels, and serve immediately.

Mussels Provençal

Seared Sea Scallops with Carrot-Citrus Sauce

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR AN ELEGANT DINNER that comes together in minutes, look no further: pan-seared scallops perched atop a bed of wilted baby spinach, drizzled with a sauce composed of just three ingredients—carrot juice, orange juice, and butter. The recipe for this delectable carrot-citrus sauce comes from our friend Cal Stamenov, executive chef at Bernardus Lodge. Cal’s acclaimed cuisine is based on intense flavors and the freshest of ingredients, and this dish is a wonderful case in point. Light and brightly flavored, the sauce forms a perfect counterpoint to the richness of the scallops and the austerity of the spinach. Moreover, the presentation is visually stunning with its contrast of colors and textures. The sauce is also delicious paired with any mild-flavored white fish, such as halibut, sole, or tilapia. Serves 4

1¼ cups fresh carrot juice (see Note)

1¼ cups fresh orange juice (see Note)

1½ pounds fresh baby spinach, rinsed and dried if not prewashed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

4 tablespoons (½ stick) cold unsalted butter

1½ pounds wild sea scallops, preferably diver caught, tough side muscles removed

¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

About 3 tablespoons olive oil

images

Freshly harvested and rinsed red carrots

1. Place the carrot and orange juices in a shallow saucepan and simmer the mixture over medium-low heat until the liquid has reduced to ¾ cup, 15 to 20 minutes. Scrape the sides of the pan with a rubber spatula occasionally, stirring the concentrated residue that forms on the pan back into the juices. Set the reduction aside.

2. Place 1 tablespoon water in a very large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the spinach and cook, stirring frequently, until it wilts, about 8 minutes. (It may be necessary to do this in batches). Season the spinach lightly with salt and pepper and the nutmeg. Set it aside.

3. Just before you cook the scallops, bring the carrot juice mixture to the start of a simmer over medium heat. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in 1 tablespoon of the butter. When this has melted, whisk in a second piece of butter. Continue, adding the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, whisking constantly until each piece is incorporated. If the sauce gets too cold, return it to the stove briefly. Do not leave the pan on the heat too long, however, because if the sauce gets too hot, the butter will separate out. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set the sauce aside, off the heat, while you cook the scallops.

4. When you are ready to cook the scallops, return the spinach to medium heat to reheat it.

5. Pat the scallops dry with paper towels. On a flat plate, whisk the flour with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Dip the top and bottom (flat sides) of the scallops in the flour mixture.

6. Place a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium-high heat. When the skillet is hot but not smoking, add the olive oil. Arrange the scallops in a single layer, one flour side down, and cook without turning or moving them until the bottom surface is browned, 1½ to 2 minutes. Carefully turn the scallops over (tongs work well) and cook to the desired degree of doneness, 1 to 3 minutes more.

7. Divide the spinach among four plates, arranging it in the center of the plates. Arrange some of the scallops on top of the spinach. Ladle some of the carrot-citrus sauce around the spinach (if the sauce is too cold, return it briefly to the stove), and serve immediately.

Note: If you’re making your own carrot juice, peel the carrots; the skin can have a slight bitterness. If you’re squeezing fresh oranges, discard the seeds, but don’t strain the juice, as the pulp adds body to the sauce.

Baked Mediterranean Shrimp

Baked Mediterranean Shrimp

ALL THE FLAVORS AND AROMAS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN—tomatoes, basil, olives, and garlic—are combined to delicious effect in this very easy dish. Serve it warm or at room temperature as a first course (with lots of fresh bread for mopping up the sauce), or toss it with angel hair pasta and serve with a salad for a more substantial meal. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer or 4 as an entrée

1 pound large shrimp (16 to 20 count per pound), peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons white wine

4 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced (about 1 tablespoon)

2 tablespoons capers (see sidebar, this page)

½ cup pitted and sliced Kalamata olives

2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see sidebar, page 131), and cut into ½-inch dice

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 cup (4 ounces) crumbled feta cheese

¼ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes, or to taste

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

2. Place all the ingredients in a large bowl and stir gently to combine.

3. Transfer the mixture to a 9 x 12-inch baking dish. Bake until the shrimp is just cooked through, 15 to 25 minutes depending on the size of the shrimp.

4. Remove the baking dish from the oven, and divide the shrimp and sauce among shallow bowls. Serve warm or at room temperature.

images

A flowering caper and whole caperberries

Easy Shrimp Scampi

SHRIMP SCAMPI IS AN ITALIAN CLASSIC that combines pan-seared shrimp, garlic, wine, and butter. A simple sauce forms in the skillet and clings to the shrimp like a glaze. This is a terrific dish when you want a quick and delicious meal—it comes together in a matter of minutes with just a handful of ingredients. If your fishmonger has already peeled and deveined the shrimp for you, prepping the garlic is the most time-consuming step. My family likes their shrimp crispy; it’s important to use a hot skillet and high heat to attain this texture. Shrimp Scampi is wonderful tossed with pasta, spooned over rice, or served with a light, crusty bread to soak up the delicious sauce. Serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil

¼ cup minced garlic (about 8 large cloves)

1½ pounds large shrimp (16 to 20 count per pound), peeled and deveined

⅔ cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth

Pinch of dried red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

⅓ cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Salt

1. Place a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium heat and add the olive oil. When the oil is warm, add the garlic and reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic softens, 1 minute; do not let it burn.

2. Meanwhile, pat the shrimp dry with a clean kitchen towel or paper towels.

3. Place the skillet over medium heat, and when the oil is hot but not smoking, stir in the shrimp in a single layer. (It may be necessary to do this in two batches so that the pan is not crowded.) Cook the shrimp until golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Then turn the shrimp and cook on the other side until cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes, depending on the size of your shrimp. (If your shrimp are very large, turning them up on edge—tails up—will help them cook more evenly.) Transfer the shrimp to a platter.

4. Remove the skillet from the burner and set it aside for 1 minute to let it cool slightly. Then return it to medium heat and add the wine and red pepper flakes. Cook until the wine has reduced by half, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the butter, one piece at a time, whisking until each piece has melted before adding the next piece. Then add the shrimp, lemon juice, and parsley and cook for 1 minute, stirring to coat the shrimp with the sauce. Season with salt to taste, and serve immediately.

Vietnamese Shrimp and Bok Choy Curry

CURRIES ARE A MAINSTAY OF SOUTHEAST ASIAN COOKING, with regional variations unique to each country. This Vietnamese-inspired version is redolent with the heady fragrances of lemongrass and coriander, enlivened by the bite of ginger and chiles, and tempered with coconut milk and baby bok choy. Several simple steps build layers of flavor and contribute to the complexity of the dish: shrimp shells are used to infuse the coconut-stock base; and spices are dry-toasted, then cooked with oil to awaken their flavors and aromas. Adding baby bok choy and fresh herbs at the final stage of cooking preserves their vibrant color and lively taste. Vietnamese fish sauce, called nuoc mam, while not easily discernible as an ingredient, is an indispensable element and adds a rich intensity to this dish. This is a curry where the whole is much more than the sum of its individual parts—and like many curries, it is best served over rice. Serves 4

1 pound large shrimp (16 to 20 count per pound), unpeeled

1 can (14 ounces) unsweetened light coconut milk

3 stalks fresh lemongrass, minced (see sidebar, page 19)

2 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced

3 tablespoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1 tablespoon thinly sliced jalapeño chile (seeds optional), or more to taste

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

3 tablespoons peanut or canola oil

3 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc mam; see box, page 156)

1 small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into ¼ x 1-inch strips (1 cup)

5 heads baby bok choy, leaves separated

¼ cup chopped fresh mint

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1. Peel and devein the shrimp, reserving the shells. Cover and refrigerate the shrimp. Place the shrimp shells in a medium-size saucepan and add the coconut milk, ¾ cup water, and the lemongrass, scallions, ginger, and jalapeño. Cook over medium heat until the mixture is reduced by about one third, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture cool to room temperature.

2. Place a sieve over a clean bowl and pour the coconut-shrimp stock into it, pressing firmly on the solids with a rubber spatula to extract all of the liquid. Discard the solids and set the stock aside.

3. Combine the coriander, cumin, and turmeric in a small skillet and set it over medium-low heat. Toast the spices until they are hot to the touch and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes, taking care not to let them burn. Add 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil, 2 tablespoons of the fish sauce, and 1 tablespoon water to the skillet. Cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce reduces to a thick paste and becomes aromatic, about 5 minutes. Add the paste to the coconut-shrimp stock, and stir to blend.

4. Heat 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil in a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium-high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring frequently to coat them in the oil, until they are partially cooked, 1½ to 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a plate and set aside.

5. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon peanut oil in the same skillet over medium-high heat. Add the red pepper strips and the remaining 1 tablespoon fish sauce, and stir-fry until the pepper strips soften slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the stock mixture and the bok choy, and bring to the start of a boil. Then reduce the heat to medium, cover the skillet, and cook until the bok choy is just tender, 3 to 5 minutes.

6. Add the shrimp to the skillet and simmer over medium-low heat until they are cooked through, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the mint, cilantro, and lime juice. Serve hot.

voting for the environment with your dollar

Sometimes we all feel small and ineffective in the face of our planet’s problems, but we should never underestimate our power as consumers. As someone who’s been in the retail produce business for more than a quarter century, I see firsthand how the demands of even a few consumers can change the market. I’ve seen huge retailers start carrying a new product because of requests from one or two persistent shoppers. The rise of organic foods in the marketplace is a prime example.

When retailers saw that they risked losing shoppers to competitors who offered organic choices, they started carrying organic products in their stores. When what you want isn’t available, it makes a very powerful statement to leave a shop without making a purchase. I’ve walked out of a seafood shop because they had only Atlantic farmed salmon and no wild Alaskan salmon or U.S. freshwater-farmed Coho salmon. I let the fishmonger know the reasons I prefer the wild salmon, telling him I would be happy to buy my fish there instead of having to go elsewhere. If a few other consumers did the same, I would be surprised if the store didn’t change their offerings. Our dollars can truly change the way food is produced in this country … one purchase at a time.