Chapter 5: Seafood and Shellfish
ACCORDING TO THE USDA, we need to be eating seafood twice a week! Seafood and shellfish are high in protein, low in fat, and the omega-3 fatty acids present in fish are good for your heart. Omega-3 fatty acids are a type of unsaturated fatty acid and research suggests they may reduce inflammation throughout the body. (Inflammation, by the way, can damage your blood vessels and lead to heart disease.) The Mediterranean diet, based on the traditional eating habits of Greece, Spain, and southern Italy, is probably the most famous example of a dietary regimen rich in omega-3 fatty acids and seafood. But, come to think of it, the Mediterranean diet isn’t really a diet at all—it’s simply an eating lifestyle that emphasizes good-for-you foods like seafood and shellfish, vegetables, beans, nuts, and olive oil. This “diet” proves it’s possible to celebrate real food while losing weight and keeping it off.
When I am really hungry, I don’t reach for red meat or a pork chop. I actually go for fish. Think about it. Three ounces of mahi mahi, for example, rings up about 93 calories. Three ounces of top sirloin steak is 158 calories—and is about this size of three fingers. Red meat just doesn’t give you as much bang for your buck. Of course, if you’ve been reading the book up until now, you’ll probably say, “But Virginia, the point of eating isn’t solely about quantity, I want to eat delicious, satisfying, food!” And you’re absolutely right. But hey, sometimes more is more, and I can eat more fish than I can steak.
I’ve found three reasons that restrict people from cooking fish at home: accessibility, expense, and cooking knowledge. If you are in a larger city, you have access to fresh fish (or at least defrosted frozen fish) at your grocery store whether you are near the coast or not. If you don’t see fresh fish at the counter, take a look in the freezer section. There’s more to frozen seafood than fish sticks and fried coconut shrimp. Whole Foods Markets sells frozen, vacuum-sealed fish in individual portions. Major grocery stores often sell whole peeled shrimp and fish fillets. The truth is that a great deal of seafood is actually frozen on the boat and later defrosted in the store, so there’s no need to automatically assume it’s an inferior product. Obviously, fresh is best, but good quality frozen is not only available, it’s also often less expensive than fresh.
In terms of cooking knowledge, this chapter contains a variety of recipes with different techniques, but first, you need to hook your fish. Sniff the fish, if possible. There should be no strong odor. Fresh fish smells sweet and clean. Look for a moist surface and firm flesh. Splits or cracks in fillets are signs of drying. Ask the person at the counter to press the fish gently. The indentation should spring back. If not, take a pass. Chefs and seafood experts always examine whole fish when they want to judge freshness. A fresh fish has clear eyes. They’re not clouded or sunken. Be dubious of a counter or shop where all whole fish are whole, but headless—not a good sign. Keep fish fresh by burying it in ice. Take a shallow container, cover the bottom with crushed ice or cubes, then put the fish on that and cover with more ice. Cook within a day of purchase.
If you’re inexperienced cooking fish, fear not, my friend—the recipes in this chapter are easy and foolproof. I find that it’s easier to avoid dry fish when you bake it in the oven, so both Miso-Glazed Catfish with Edamame and Spicy Winter Greens and Lemon-Basil North Georgia Trout are cooked that way. Red Snapper Provençal on Stone-Ground Grits with Parmesan and Herbs and Pan-Seared Fish Steaks with Cherry Tomatoes and Basil are served with a light sauce that will also help prevent the fish from drying out. I’m also sharing a couple of simple yet highly flavorful recipes for shellfish—Beer-Battered Shrimp and Bacon and Chile-Wrapped Scallops. Lastly, I round it out the chapter with a couple of one-pot meals excellent for a special dinner or a supper club.
As a cook, I am wildly passionate about sustainable seafood. I write about it as often as I can in print, online, and through my blog. I teach sustainable seafood in cooking classes all across the country, and I only buy, cook, and eat sustainable seafood. I do this because I am on the Blue Ribbon Task Force for the Monterey Bay Aquarium and a member of Chefs Collaborative. I “walk what I talk.”
According to many scientists and scientific organizations like Seafood Watch, the Marine Stewardship Council, and the Blue Ocean Institute, we are seriously jeopardizing the health and welfare of the oceans. First, we are eating out of the ocean like it is an endless Las Vegas buffet, and it’s not. We’re also destroying habitats of thriving fisheries through more direct ways such as pollution and runoff. We need to do something sooner rather than later to correct our perilous course. What can you do? Download the Seafood Watch app for your smartphone and use it! Buy only sustainable fish and shellfish and ask for it when you eat out at restaurants as well. Seafood retailers and restaurants play a primary role in the conservation of ocean resources. When you ask businesses to support ocean-friendly seafood, you can help make change happen. Good businesses listen to their customers! Let your community business owners know that sustainable seafood is on your shopping list. It may all seem very overwhelming, but the choices we make, one meal at a time for both the earth and our bodies, add up. Together we can make a difference.

FISH SUBSTITUTIONS

Fish fall easily into three categories: delicate-, medium-, and firm-fleshed. These categories reflect how fish respond to cooking methods and which substitutions work.

Delicate

Treat delicate fish with care when you cook them; use a fish spatula or wide spatula, not tongs or a fork when moving them in the pan. They flake easily and have a soft texture when cooked. These fish are traditionally sold as fillets, and they are best prepared by poaching, braising, pan-frying, or baking.
The following fish can be substituted for one another in recipes:
sole, flounder, turbot, plaice, flake, sand dabs

Medium

These fish flake easily, but with more resistance than delicate fish, and are firmer when cooked. They are the most versatile fish to cook and can be used when your recipe specifies “or other flaky white fish.” They are best prepared by baking, broiling, braising, pan-frying, or grilling.
The following fish can be substituted for one another in recipes:
farmed arctic char, farmed steelhead trout, farmed rainbow trout, wild salmon
US mahi mahi, US grouper, monkfish
US red snapper, Pacific halibut, walleye
tilapia, bass (freshwater), pike, mid-Atlantic tilefish

Firm

These fish don’t flake easily when cooked and have a meaty texture. They are best prepared over high heat—by grilling or sautéing, for example.
The following fish can be substituted for one another in recipes:
US pompano, Pacific amberjack, US catfish
troll pole–caught or MSC-certified yellowfin or albacore tuna, US swordfish, farmed sturgeon, Pacific rockfish, Pacific cod, yellow perch, sablefish
Red Snapper Provençal on Stone-Ground Grits with Parmesan and Herbs

RED SNAPPER PROVENÇAL
ON STONE-GROUND GRITS WITH PARMESAN AND HERBS

SERVES 6
Red snapper is a Gulf favorite. I remember my parents going deep-sea fishing when I was a child and returning with massive coolers packed with red snapper. I absolutely love the ocean. It’s so intensely primal and the only feeling that would remotely come close would be the basic human reaction to fire. I’m pretty certain that if I lived at the beach I’d ditch my red lipstick pretty darn quick and become someone who fishes a whole lot more and bathes a little less. Fish and grits is an old-timey country dish that might be enjoyed for both breakfast or supper. Here I’ve gussied it up with fennel and olives. This is a family favorite.

GRITS

1 tablespoon pure olive oil
1 sweet onion, grated
2 cups 2 percent milk
2 cups water
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup stone-ground grits
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 2 ounces)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

RED SNAPPER

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for the pan
1 small bulb fennel, cored and diced, fronds reserved for garnish
1 sweet onion, diced
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, plus thyme sprigs for garnish
2 tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped, or 1 (14.5-ounce) can no-salt-added diced tomatoes
20 kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, halved and pitted
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 (4-ounce) red snapper fillets, skinned
To make the grits, in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until transparent, about 3 minutes. Add the milk, water, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Whisk in the grits, decrease the heat to low, and simmer, whisking occasionally, until the grits are creamy and thick, 45 to 60 minutes. Stir in the butter, cheese, and parsley. Taste, adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper, and keep warm.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Brush a shallow, ovenproof casserole with some of the oil for the fish; set aside.
To make the sauce for the fish, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fennel and cook until just tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and chopped thyme and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the tomatoes and sauté until soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the olives and vinegar. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To cook the fish, place the snapper in the prepared casserole; season with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the fillets. Bake until opaque in the center when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 10 minutes.
To serve, place a spoonful of the grits in individual shallow bowls. Top with a portion of the fish and ladle over some of the tomato sauce. Garnish with sprigs of thyme and fennel fronds.
Calories 405
Fat 19 g
Carbs 43 g
Fiber 4 g
Protein 17 g
 

GRITS BASICS

When cooking grits for eating on their own for breakfast or as a side dish, use a ratio of 4 cups liquid to 1 cup whole-grain, stone-ground grits. I most often use a combination of water and 2 percent milk, but you can also use all water, a combination of water and stock, or stock and milk. Some recipes use all milk, half and half, or heavy cream, but I think they overpower the subtlety of the corn flavor—and have no place in a lightened up way of eating.

LEMON-BASIL NORTH GEORGIA TROUT

SERVES 4
I have always, always loved to fish. Mama tells me that I caught my first fish when I was so young, that in my excitement, I jumped out of my diaper. There’s nothing like fishing to me for relaxation and enjoying nature. If you are new to cooking fish or worried about overcooking, this recipe has “training wheels.” The spicy-herb topping helps protect the fish in the heat of the hot oven and can help prevent it from drying out and overcooking. This trout would be lovely served with freshly sliced tomato on a bed of crispy greens.
8 large leaves chopped fresh basil
8 sprigs chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
4 small cloves garlic, very finely chopped
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 (8-ounce) trout fillets, halved
Coarse kosher salt
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a nonstick silicone baking mat.
Combine the basil, parsley, garlic, red pepper flakes, and lemon zest in a small bowl. Brush each piece of fish with some of the oil, season with salt, then dust the top side with the herb mixture. Place the fish on the prepared baking sheet and bake until the fish is opaque, 5 to 7 minutes. Serve immediately on warmed serving plates.
Calories 97
Fat 6 g
Carbs 1 g
Fiber .3 g
Protein 9 g
Pan-Seared Fish Steaks with Cherry Tomatoes and Basil

PAN-SEARED FISH STEAKS
WITH CHERRY TOMATOES AND BASIL

SERVES 4
Pepper is one of my favorite spices. I really like to use it with purposeful intent, as with this dish where it’s the main accent flavor. The size of the grind and the blend of peppercorns can make a difference in the end result, so I’m suggesting a blend of peppercorns. However, if you are in a pinch with your pepper, you can also use a mill and simply adjust the setting so the pepper is very coarsely cracked.
Hearty, firm-fleshed fish on the bone is best for this dish. Look for Pacific halibut, wild salmon, or sustainable swordfish steaks. Steaks are pieces of fish cut in cross section that generally still have skin and sometimes a bone in the center, depending on the size of the fish. A fish fillet is simply a boneless piece of fish. If you are using a fillet, make sure to pepper the flesh side, not the skin side of the fish, or remove the skin all together.
1 tablespoon mixed white and black peppercorns
Coarse kosher salt
1 tablespoon pure olive oil
4 (4-ounce) swordfish, halibut, or salmon steaks, cut 1-inch thick
20 cherry tomatoes
1 cup lightly packed whole fresh basil leaves
Orange or lemon wedges, for accompaniment
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Crush the peppercorns using the bottom of a heavy skillet on a clean work surface or pulse in a spice grinder until just cracked. Set aside. Sift to remove the finest particles of pepper. (They can make the fish far too hot.)
Season both sides of the steak with salt. Rub one side of the steaks with the pepper. Heat the tablespoon of oil in a 12-inch heavy-duty ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the fish steaks, pepper-side down, and cook, without moving, until a crust has formed, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a spatula, turn the steaks and scatter over the tomatoes and basil leaves. Transfer to the oven and cook until the fish is firm, about 4 additional minutes. Remove the skillet to a rack to cool slightly and let the fish set. Serve immediately with orange or lemon wedges on the side.
Calories 193
Fat 10 g
Carbs 4 g
Fiber 1 g
Protein 21 g
 

PICK A PINT OF PICKLED PEPPER

Pepper berries grow in clusters and are dried and processed to produce three types of peppercorns—black, white, and green, all from the same plant. The most common is the black peppercorn. The less pungent white peppercorn has been allowed to ripen, after which the skin is removed and the berry is dried. Green peppercorns are the unripe, immature berries of the same plant.

MISO-GLAZED CATFISH
WITH EDAMAME AND SPICY WINTER GREENS

SERVES 4
You might be thinking, “What on earth is miso doing in a Southern cookbook?” To that I say the South is a far less homogeneous place than it once was. And, when conceiving this recipe, all I could think about was the umami of the miso and how that would mimic the smoky salty flavors of Southern-style country ham. It’s a perfect match. I’ve added shelled edamame for a great, fresh, and protein-packed bit of crunch.
1 tablespoon canola oil, plus more for the baking dish
1 pound thin catfish fillets, or 4 (4-ounce) catfish fillets
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons low-sodium miso paste
4 cups water
8 cups chopped winter greens, such as kale or collards (about 8 ounces)
2 cups shelled edamame, thawed if frozen
1 sweet onion, thinly sliced
1 jalapeño chile, sliced, or to taste
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
Preheat the oven to broil and position a rack about 5 inches from the heat. Brush a medium baking dish with oil.
Place the catfish in the greased baking dish. Heartily season the fillets with freshly ground black pepper. Using a spatula, thinly spread 1 tablespoon of the miso on the tops of the fillets. Set aside.
In a large saucepan over high heat, combine the remaining 3 tablespoons of miso with the 4 cups of water. Bring to a boil. Add the winter greens, edamame, onion, jalapeño, and red pepper flakes. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Decrease the heat to simmer. Cook until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
Place the miso-glazed catfish under the broiler. Cook until the fish is opaque and the miso is deep golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the strength of your broiler.
To serve, spoon the vegetables in equal portions into warmed shallow bowls. Place a portion of catfish on top. Spoon over some of the miso broth used to cook the vegetables. Serve immediately.
Calories 237
Fat 8 g
Carbs 23 g
Fiber 8 g
Protein 18 g
 

WHAT A CATCH!

A specialty of the South, catfish is the leading aquaculture-produced seafood product in the United States. What does “aquaculture” mean? Well, think aqua plus agriculture; it’s the word used to define farming fish and shellfish. Farm-raised domestic catfish has been on the top ten list of most frequently consumed seafood products in the United States for almost twenty years. Make sure to look for US farm-raised catfish instead of imports like basa or swai, which are less likely to be sustainably raised.

CITRUS-GRILLED SHRIMP
WITH
BLOODY MARY COCKTAIL SAUCE

MAKES 6 SKEWERS AND 1 CUP SAUCE
Shrimp are a fantastic lean protein and very quick to cook, so they’re pretty much the best “fast” food you can eat! To butterfly shrimp, cut them with a sharp paring knife along the back; discard the veins, and open up the shrimp, butterfly-style. I’m using a wee bit of food science to enhance the flavor of the cocktail sauce. Tomatoes contain alcohol-soluble flavors that can only be delivered to your taste receptors in the presence of alcohol. The vodka combined with the ketchup makes this basic recipe shine. Leave the peel on the citrus so it won’t fall apart on the grill.

SHRIMP

1 grapefruit, halved
1 orange, halved
1 garlic clove, mashed to a paste with salt
1 pound jumbo (18/20 count) shrimp, shelled, tails intact, butterflied, and deveined
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 stalks celery, cut into 1-inch pieces

BLOODY MARY COCKTAIL SAUCE

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
½ cup low-sodium ketchup
1 tablespoon freshly grated horseradish
1 tablespoon vodka
2 teaspoons reduced-sodium Worcestershire sauce
Pinch celery salt
Hot sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
To prepare the shrimp, squeeze the juice from one grapefruit half and one orange half into a large bowl. Add the shrimp and season with salt and pepper. Toss the shrimp to combine and coat. Cover and refrigerate to marinate for about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the cocktail sauce. In a small bowl, combine the lemon zest and juice, ketchup, horseradish, vodka, Worcestershire, and celery salt, and season to taste with hot sauce, and pepper. Stir until well combined; set aside.
Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire as directed. Or preheat a gas grill to high or a grill pan over high heat.
Cut the remaining grapefruit and orange halves into 1-inch pieces. (You will probably have more than you need.) Skewer the shrimp without packing them too tight, inserting a piece of citrus and celery between every few shrimp. Grill the shrimp, turning once, until charred on both sides and just cooked through, 5 minutes total. Serve immediately with the cocktail sauce.
Grilled Shrimp
Calories 66
Fat .2 g
Carbs 5 g
Fiber .6 g
Protein 12 g
 
Bloody Mary Cocktail Sauce per tablespoon
Calories 14
Fat .1 g
Carbs 3 g
Fiber .2 g
Protein .2 g
 

SIZE MATTERS

Jumbo, large, and medium are all arbitrary designations when it comes to shrimp. Chefs purchase shrimp according to the count per pound: 21/25 count shrimp indicates that there are between 21 and 25 shrimp per pound. Regardless of size, when buying shrimp, make sure they smell mildly sweet. If there is any scent of ammonia or fishy smell, it’s a sign the shrimp are no longer fresh.
Beer-Battered Shrimp with Spicy Ketchup

BEER-BATTERED SHRIMP
WITH
SPICY KETCHUP

SERVES 4 | MAKES 1½ CUPS SPICY KETCHUP
Fried shrimp might seem a thing of the past if you are trying to eat healthy. These are still a special treat, but are pan-fried, not deep fried, and super crispy because they are made with beer. The alcohol in the beer evaporates quickly as the shrimp cooks leaving them extra crispy. I know it might seem silly to make your own ketchup, and yes, on many busy days homemade ketchup will be too much work. But this zippy sauce is made from wholesome ingredients—no fillers, stabilizers, or corn syrup—and will last up to four weeks in the refrigerator. Make a batch and put it in a mason jar for some amped-up flavor.

SPICY KETCHUP

1 tablespoon pure olive oil
1 sweet onion, grated
1 garlic clove, mashed to a paste with salt
1 (14.5-ounce) no-salt-added canned tomatoes with juice, pureed
1 tablespoon tomato paste
¼ cup sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon smoked hot paprika
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

SHRIMP

½ cup panko (Japanese) bread crumbs
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves
⅔ cup rice flour or cornstarch
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
4 ounces light beer
6 tablespoons canola oil
1 pound large (21/25 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 lemon, thinly sliced
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make the ketchup, heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, sherry vinegar, honey, and smoked paprika, then season with salt. Cook until thickened, 45 to 60 minutes.
To prepare the shrimp, combine the panko and cilantro in a shallow baking dish and stir to combine. Combine the rice flour, unbleached all-purpose flour, and baking soda in a large bowl, stirring with a whisk. Gradually add the beer, stirring with a whisk until a smooth batter.
Line a plate with paper towels. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the canola oil to pan; swirl to coat. Working one at a time and using the tail as a handle, dip the shrimp in the batter and shake off the excess. Dredge the shrimp in the panko mixture, making sure to coat both sides. Place the shrimp in a single layer in the pan, and cook until golden brown, about 2½ minutes on each side. Remove the shrimp from pan; drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining oil, shrimp, batter, and panko mixture. At the end of cooking, sear the lemon slices in the hot oil until slightly charred.
Serve the shrimp and lemon slices hot with the spicy ketchup.
Spicy Ketchup per tablespoon
Calories 18
Fat .6 g
Carbs 3 g
Fiber .4 g
Protein .3 g
 
Shrimp
Calories 279
Fat 11 g
Carbs 19 g
Fiber 1 g
Protein 24 g
 

GARLIC PASTE

To prepare garlic paste, place the broad side of an unpeeled clove of garlic on a clean work surface. Give it a whack with the side of a chef’s knife. Remove the outside papery skin, and using the knife, trim the tough basal plane at the top of the clove. Halve the clove lengthwise and remove the green shoot, if present, as it is bitter. Coarsely chop the garlic, then sprinkle it with coarse salt. (The salt acts as an abrasive and helps chop the garlic.) Then, using the flat side of the chef’s knife like a palette knife, press firmly on the garlic, crushing a little at a time. Repeat until the garlic is a smooth paste.
 

SHORE THING

Summer vacations often are spent at the beach. There’s nothing like a deep-fried fisherman’s platter to send your healthy eating plan overboard! If you’re deep-sea dining, look for healthier choices like peel-and-eat shrimp, steamed lobster, and broiled or grilled fish fillet. Toss the tartar sauce and ask for cocktail sauce or a simple squeeze of lemon instead.

BACON and CHILE–WRAPPED SCALLOPS
WITH
LEMON GREMOLATA

SERVES 4
Bacon-wrapped scallops are a classic combination of sea and salt. Sadly, they all too often become overcooked and greasy. To achieve crispy bacon, tender scallops, and a star-studded supper, use a proper amount of bacon. You don’t need a whole slice of bacon to wrap around a scallop. In this recipe, the bacon is cut into four strips so it’s simply a stripe around the shellfish. The bacon is also parcooked, eliminating some of the fat and grease.
Gremolata is a traditional condiment served with veal osso bucco, to cut the richness of that dish. It also gives a nice citrusy kick to fish and shellfish dishes.

GREMOLATA

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

SCALLOPS

3 slices center-cut bacon
16 large sea scallops (about 1½ pounds)
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 banana or Hungarian wax pepper or small poblano chile, cored and sliced into ¼-inch-thick rings
Adjust an oven rack to 6 inches from the heat and preheat the broiler to high. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper.
To make the gremolata, combine the parsely, thyme, garlic, lemon zest and juice, and olive oil in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
To make the scallops, slice each piece of bacon lengthwise into two, long thin strips, then cut each strip into half vertically to create 4 smaller pieces per slice (you should have a total of 12 bacon pieces). Spread the bacon pieces out over two layers of paper towels on a microwave-safe plate, then cover with two more layers of paper towels. Microwave on high until the bacon fat begins to melt but the bacon is still pliable, 1 to 2 minutes, depending on the strength of your microwave.
Meanwhile, put the scallops in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
Wrap a piece of the microwaved bacon around 12 of the scallops and place on the prepared baking sheet. Fit the 4 remaining scallops in the center of 4 of the rings of pepper. Scatter the remaining rings on the baking sheet. Broil until the scallops are firm and the edges of the bacon are brown, about 5 minutes, depending on the strength of your broiler.
Serve 3 bacon-wrapped and 1 chile-wrapped scallop per person, topped with the gremolata.
Calories 253
Fat 11 g
Carbs 7 g
Fiber 1 g
Protein 31 g

SALMON PATTIES
WITH
LEMON-CAPER SAUCE

MAKES FOUR 4-OUNCE PATTIES | MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP SAUCE
Dede, my grandfather, loved green beans, and grew bushels of them in his massive garden. When he and my grandmother traveled in their motor home all across the country, they would take cases of home-canned green beans to eat. They would often journey to Alaska—from Georgia—to go salmon fishing. Weeks later, when they arrived in Alaska, they would fish for salmon in the cold, racing rivers and my grandmother would can the salmon, using her pressure cooker, in the now-empty jars that once held green beans. I was in college before I ever tried commercially canned salmon.
Traditional salmon patties or croquettes are often made with canned salmon and skillet fried. These are made with fresh salmon and baked, for a fresh and light alternative that is perfect with an arugula salad or on a bun. Salmon is a great starter fish if you aren’t all that familiar with cooking seafood (it is widely available), and from a nutrition standpoint, it is packed with omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Make sure to search out wild-caught salmon, such as wild-caught Alaska salmon that is considered a “Best Choice” by Seafood Watch and certified as sustainable by the standards of the Marine Stewardship Council.

LEMON-CAPER SAUCE

1 lemon
1 tablespoon chopped onion
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon capers, drained and finely chopped
½ celery stalk, very finely chopped
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

SALMON

½ onion, finely chopped
½ stalk celery, finely chopped
10 ounces boneless, skinless salmon fillet, pin bones removed, and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 cups fresh whole wheat bread crumbs or whole wheat panko (Japanese) bread crumbs
1 large egg
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Pinch cayenne pepper
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make the sauce, zest the lemon with a handheld grater and reserve the zest for the salmon. To section the lemon, using a small sharp knife and a cutting board, slice off the top and bottom so the lemon will stand upright. Set the fruit upright on the board. Working from top to bottom, slice off the peel, white pith, and outer membranes from the lemon to expose the segments. Carefully cut each segment away from its membranes and put in a bowl along with any juice. Squeeze any remaining juice from the membranes, then discard. Add the onion, mustard, capers, and celery. Whisk until combined. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil in a slow steady stream. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To make the salmon, preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone mat. Place the onion and celery in a microwave-safe bowl and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly.
In a large bowl, combine the salmon, bread crumbs, egg, onion mixture, garlic, parsley, mustard, reserved lemon zest, and cayenne pepper. Season with salt and pepper. (Simply microwave a teaspoon or so until the salmon is cooked so you can taste and adjust for seasoning.) Using a large ice cream scoop or ½ cup measure, shape the salmon mixture with your hands into 4 cakes and place on the prepared baking sheet. Bake 5 minutes, then, using an offset spatula or batter turner, flip and bake an additional 5 minutes.
Serve immediately with the sauce.
Lemon Caper Sauce per tablespoon
Calories 37
Fat 4 g
Carbs 1 g
Fiber .3 g
Protein .1 g
 
Salmon Patty
Calories 220
Fat 11 g
Carbs 21 g
Fiber 3 g
Protein 11 g

GULF COAST SEAFOOD STEW

SERVES 8
Before modern transportation and refrigeration, seafood was a luxury to people who lived in inland Southern states. But it was so prevalent in the coastal states that it was essentially poor people’s food there—hard to believe, considering how expensive most seafood is nowadays. This stew was inspired by poor man’s dishes like gumbo in Louisiana and Frogmore stew in the Low Country.
4 cups homemade chicken stock or reduced-fat, low-sodium chicken broth
¾ pound unpeeled, large (21/25 count) raw shrimp
1 stalk celery
1 large sweet onion
1 poblano chile
1 tablespoon pure olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 teaspoon Homemade Creole Seasoning
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
1 (12-ounce) bottle light beer
6 ounces chicken or turkey andouille sausage, cut into ½-inch pieces
½ pound small red potatoes, halved
¾ pound fresh white fish fillets, (such as snapper, grouper, or catfish), cubed
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the chicken stock in a medium saucepan. Peel the shrimp and add the shells to the chicken stock. Refrigerate the shrimp in an airtight container until you need them. Bring the chicken stock to a boil over medium-high heat then decrease the heat to simmer.
Chop the celery, onion, and chile, reserving the celery ends and onion peel. Set aside. Add the onion peel and celery ends (but not the chile trimmings) to the pot of simmering chicken stock. (Using the leftover bits will layer the flavor and will result in a very flavorful broth; if you don’t have time, it’s okay to ignore this advice.) Let the mixture simmer until the shrimp shells are bright pink and the broth is well-flavored, about 8 to 10 minutes.
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the reserved celery, onion, and chile and cook until soft and the onion is translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the Creole seasoning, thyme, bay leaf, beer, andouille, and potatoes. Strain the chicken stock over, discarding the shells and vegetable peels. Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally and skimming any fat from the surface, until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes.
Add the fish and cook gently until just opaque, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the shrimp, and cook until the shrimp are pink, an additional 3 to 4 minutes. Taste the broth and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve, transfer portions of the seafood to warmed shallow soup bowls. Spoon the broth over the seafood and serve immediately.
Calories 185
Fat 5 g
Carbs 11 g
Fiber 2 g
Protein 22 g
Smoky Seafood éToufée

SMOKY SEAFOOD ÉTOUFÉE

SERVES 4
Growing up in Louisiana had enormous impact on my childhood culinary experience. Mama didn’t know anyone when we first moved there, so she immersed herself in the cuisine to learn the culture. She bought copies of Junior League cookbooks bound in plastic ring binders. My sister and I grew up eating étoufée, gumbo, and jambalaya—and learned how to suck crawfish heads just like a native.
Perhaps the best part of this recipe is that it can be a weeknight supper in less than 30 minutes. Laissez les bons temps rouler!
1 tablespoon pure olive oil
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1 sweet onion, chopped
1 stalk celery, diced
1 small green bell pepper, diced
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
¾ cup homemade chicken stock or reduced-fat, low-sodium chicken broth
1 pound large shrimp (21/25 count), shelled and deveined
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cooked long grain white or jasmine brown rice, for accompaniment
2 green onions, trimmed and chopped
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring often, until the roux is pale brown, about 10 minutes. Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper. Cook until the onion is soft and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds.
In small bowl, combine the tomato paste and stock. Add the stock mixture to the skillet and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Decrease the heat to medium and simmer until slightly thickened and the flavors have married, about 10 minutes.
Add the shrimp, parsley, smoked paprika, and cayenne pepper. Cook until heated through, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Spoon over hot rice, garnish with green onions, and serve immediately.
Smoky Seafood Etoufée (without rice)
Calories 178
Fat 4 g
Carbs 14 g
Fiber 2 g
Protein 22 g