Map: Charles de Gaulle Airport
This chapter covers Paris’ two main airports, one smaller airport, seven train stations, long-distance buses, parking tips for drivers, and how to reach the city from the cruise port at Le Havre.
Whether you’re aiming to catch a train or plane, budget plenty of time to reach your departure point. Paris is a big, crowded city, and getting across town or from terminal to terminal on time is a goal you’ll share with millions of others. Factor in traffic delays and walking time through huge stations and vast terminals. At the airport, expect healthy lines at ticketing, check-in, baggage check, and security points. Always keep your luggage safely near you. Thieves prey on jet-lagged and confused tourists using public transportation.
Here’s a rundown of Paris’ major airports and the best ways to get into the city from each. For more on flights within Europe, see here.
Paris’ main airport (airport code: CDG, www.charlesdegaulleairport.co.uk) has three terminals: T-1, T-2, and T-3 (see map). Most flights from the US use T-1 or T-2. You can travel between terminals on the free CDGVAL shuttle train (departs every 5 minutes, 24/7) or by shuttle bus (on the arrivals level). Allow 30 minutes to travel between terminals and an hour for total travel time between your gates at T-1 and T-2. All three terminals have access to ground transportation.
When leaving Paris, make sure you know which terminal you are departing from (if it’s T-2, you’ll also need to know which hall you’re leaving from—they’re labeled A through F). Plan to arrive at the airport three hours early for an overseas flight, and two hours for flights within Europe (particularly on budget airlines, which can have especially long check-in lines). For airport and flight info, visit www.adp.fr.
Services: All terminals have two types of information desks: Airport Information or ADP (identified with a large I), and Paris Tourisme. ADP counters can help with ground transportation to Paris, bag storage, and airport-related questions. At Paris Tourisme counters you can get city maps, buy a Paris Museum Pass, and get tickets for the RoissyBus or suburban Train-B to Paris—a terrific time- and hassle-saver. You’ll also find ATMs (distributeurs), free (but slow) Wi-Fi, shops, cafés, and bars. If you’re returning home and want a VAT refund, look for tax-refund centers in the check-in area or ask for their location at any ADP information desk.
This circular terminal has three key floors—arrivals (arrivées) on the top floor, and two floors for departures (départs) below. The terminal’s round shape can be confusing—if you feel like you’re going around in circles, you probably are.
Arrival Level (niveau arrivée): After passing through customs, you’ll exit between doors (porte) 34 and 36. Nearby are ADP information desks, a snack stand, and an ATM. Walk counterclockwise around the terminal to find the Paris Tourisme desk (door 6). Walk clockwise to find ground transportation: Le Bus Direct, RoissyBus, and the Disneyland shuttle bus (door 34), car rental counters (doors 24-30), and taxis (door 24).
Departure Levels (niveaux départ): Scan the departure screen to find out which hall you should go to for check-in. Halls 1-4 are on floor 2, and 5-6 are downstairs on floor 1. Also on floor 1 are the CDGVAL shuttle train, cafés, a post office (La Poste), pharmacy, boutiques, and a handy grocery. Boarding gates and duty-free shopping are located on floor 3, which is only accessible with a boarding pass.
This long, horseshoe-shaped terminal is divided into six halls, labeled A through F. If arriving here, prepare for long walks and, in some cases, short train rides to baggage claim and exits. It’s a busy place, so take a deep breath and follow signage carefully. ADP and Paris Tourisme counters are located near gate 6/8 in each hall. Shuttle buses (navettes) circulate between T-2 halls A, C, and F, and to terminals T-1 and T-3 on the arrivals level. To locate bus stops for Le Bus Direct, RoissyBus, and the Disneyland shuttle—marked on the map on the previous page—follow bus signs and bus icons.
T-2 has a train station, with suburban trains into Paris (described later), as well as longer-distance trains to the rest of France (including high-speed TGV trains, also called “InOui” trains). It’s located between T-2C/D and T-2E/F, below the Sheraton Hotel (prepare for a long walk to reach your train). Shuttle buses to airport hotels leave from above the train station at T-2.
Car-rental offices, post offices, pharmacies, and ATMs are all well-signed. T-2E/F has several duty-free shopping arcades, and other T-2 halls have smaller duty-free shops. You can stash your bags at Baggage du Monde, located above the train station in T-2, but it’s pricey (daily 6:00-21:30, tel. 01 34 38 58 90, www.bagagesdumonde.com). See here for other baggage-storage options in Paris.
Buses, airport vans, suburban trains, and taxis link the airport’s terminals with central Paris. If you’re traveling with two or more companions, carrying lots of baggage, or are just plain tired, taxis (or Uber) are worth the extra cost. Total travel time to your hotel should be around 1.5 hours by bus and Métro, one hour by train and Métro, and 50 minutes by taxi. Keep in mind that, at the airport, using buses and taxis requires shorter walks than taking a suburban train. Also remember that transfers to Métro lines often involve stairs and long corridors. For more information, check the “Getting There” tab at www.charlesdegaulleairport.co.uk.
For details on reaching your hotel neighborhood from the various bus/van/train drop-off points, see the “Public Transportation to Recommended Hotels” sidebar.
By RoissyBus: This bus drops you off at the Opéra Métro stop in central Paris (€11.50, runs 6:00-23:00, 3-4/hour, 50 minutes, buy ticket at airport Paris Tourisme desk, ticket machine, or on bus, tel. 3246, www.ratp.fr). The RoissyBus arrives on Rue Scribe; to get to the Métro entrance or nearest taxi stand, turn left as you exit the bus and walk counterclockwise around the lavish Opéra building to its front. A taxi to any of my listed hotels costs about €12 from here.
By Le Bus Direct (formerly Air France Bus): Several bus routes drop travelers at convenient points in and near the city (€17 one-way, €30 round-trip, runs 5:45-22:30, 2/hour, Wi-Fi and power outlets, toll tel. 08 92 35 08 20, www.lebusdirect.com). Bus #2 goes to Porte Maillot (with connections to Beauvais Airport), the Arc de Triomphe (Etoile stop, 1 Avenue Carnot, 50 minutes, see map on here), the Trocadéro (10 Place du Trocadéro, near Avenue d’Eylau), and ends near the Eiffel Tower at 20 Avenue de Suffren (1.25 hours, see map on here for Trocadéro and Eiffel Tower stops). Bus #4 runs to Gare de Lyon (45 minutes) and the Montparnasse Tower/train station (1.25 hours). Bus #3 goes to Orly Airport (€21, 1.25 hours). You can book tickets online (must print out and bring with you), buy at ticket machines or ticket windows at stops (credit card only, availability varies by stop), or pay the driver (cash only, see www.lebusdirect.com for round-trip and group discount details). All Le Bus Direct stops in Paris are identified with an airplane icon above the shelter.
To return to the airport from Paris catch Le Bus Direct coaches at any of these locations: on Avenue de Suffren near the Eiffel Tower, on Place du Trocadéro, Arc de Triomphe/Etoile (on Avenue Mac Mahon—the non-Champs-Elysées side), Porte Maillot (on Boulevard Gouvion St-Cyr—east side of the Palais des Congrès), Gare Montparnasse (on Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte—facing the station with the tower behind you, it’s around the left side), or Gare de Lyon (look for Navette-Aéroport signs, and find the stop on Boulevard Diderot across from Café Les Deux Savoies).
By Suburban Train: Paris’ commuter Train-B is the fastest public transit option for getting between the airport and the city center (€9.75, runs 5:00-24:00, 4/hour, about 35 minutes). It runs directly to well-located Train-B/Métro stations (including Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, St. Michel, and Luxembourg); from there, you can hop the Métro to get exactly where you need to go. Train-B is handy and cheap, but it can require walking with your luggage through big, crowded stations—especially at Châtelet-Les Halles, where a transfer to the Métro can take 10-15 minutes and may include stairs. If you’ve been to Paris before, these trains used to be called the RER; you may see maps or websites still using the old name.
To reach Train-B from the airport terminal, follow Paris by Train signs. (If you’re landing at T-1 or T-3, you’ll need to take the CDGVAL shuttle to reach the train station.) The train station at T-2 is busy with long ticket-window lines (the other airport train station, located between T-1 and T-2, is quieter). To save time, buy tickets at a Paris Tourisme counter or from the green machines at the station (labeled Paris/Ile de France, takes cash and some—but not all—American credit cards). For step-by-step instructions on taking Train-B into Paris, see www.parisbytrain.com (see the options under “Airport”; note that “RER-B” is the former name for Train-B). Beware of thieves on the train; wear your money belt and keep your bags close.
To return to the airport on Train-B from central Paris, allow plenty of time to get to your departure gate (plan for a 15-minute Métro or bus ride to the closest Train-B station, a 15-minute wait for your train, a 35-minute train ride, plus walking time through the stations and airport). Your Métro or bus ticket is not valid on Train-B to the airport (but a Passe Navigo is); buy the ticket at any Métro or suburban train station from a clerk or the machines (small bills of €20 or less, some American credit cards also work). When you catch your train, make sure the sign over the platform shows Aéroport Roissy-Charles de Gaulle as a stop served. (The line splits, so not every Train-B serves the airport.) If you’re not clear, ask another rider, “Air-o-por sharl duh gaul?” Once at the airport, hop out either at T-2 or T-1/3 (where you can connect to T-1 or T-3 on the CDGVAL shuttle).
By Airport Van: Shuttle vans carry passengers to and from their hotels, with stops along the way to drop off and pick up other riders. Shuttles require you to book a precise pickup time in advance—even though you can’t ever know if your flight will arrive exactly on time. For that reason, they work best for trips from your hotel to the airport. Though not as fast as taxis, shuttle vans are a good value for single travelers and big families (about €32 for one person, €46 for two, €58 for three; have hotelier book at least a day in advance). Several companies offer shuttle service; I usually just go with the one my hotel uses.
By Taxi or Uber: Taxis charge a flat rate into Paris (€55 to the Left Bank, €50 to the Right Bank—these mandated flat fees have been recently instituted, so confirm with your driver). Taxis are less appealing on weekday mornings as traffic into Paris can be bad—in that case, the train is likely a better option. Taxis can carry three people with bags comfortably, and are legally required to accept a fourth passenger (though they may not like it; beyond that, there’s an extra passenger supplement). Larger parties can wait for a larger vehicle. Don’t take an unauthorized taxi from cabbies greeting you on arrival. Official taxi stands are well-signed.
For trips from Paris to the airport, have your hotel arrange it. Specify that you want a real taxi (un taxi normal), not a limo service that costs €20 more (and gives your hotel a kickback). For weekday-morning departures (7:00-10:00), reserve at least a day ahead (€7 reservation fee payable by credit card). For more on taxis in Paris, see here.
Uber offers Paris airport pickup and drop-off for the same rates as taxis, but since they can’t use the bus-only lanes (normal taxis can), expect some added time.
By Paris Webservices Private Car: This car service works well from the airport because your driver meets you inside the terminal and waits if you’re late (€85 one-way for up to two people, €120-225 round-trip for up to four people, tel. 01 45 56 91 67 or 09 52 06 02 59, www.pariswebservices.com). They also offer guided tours—see here.
By Rental Car: Car-rental desks are well signed from the arrival halls. Be prepared for a maze of ramps as you drive away from the lot—get directions from the rental clerks when you do the paperwork. For information on parking in Paris, see here.
When returning your car, allow ample time to reach the drop-off lots (at T-1 and T-2), especially if flying out of T-2. Be sure you know your flight’s departure hall in T-2 (for example, many Air France and Delta flights for North America leave from T-2E/F). There are separate rental return lots depending on your T-2 departure hall—and imperfect signage can make the return lots especially confusing to navigate.
The Magical Shuttle bus to Disneyland leaves from T-2E/F, door 8 or T-1, door 34 (€23, €10 for children 11 and under, runs about hourly from 9:00-19:45, 45 minutes, www.magicalshuttle.co.uk). TGV trains run to Disneyland from the airport in 10 minutes, but they leave only hourly and require a shuttle bus ride at the Disneyland end.
This easy-to-navigate airport (airport code: ORY) feels small, but it has all the services you’d expect at a major airport: ATMs and currency exchange, car-rental desks, cafés, shops, post offices, and more (for airport and flight info, see www.adp.fr). Orly is good for rental-car pickup and drop-off, as it’s closer to Paris and far easier to navigate than Charles de Gaulle Airport.
Orly has two terminals: Ouest (west) and Sud (south). Air France and a few other carriers arrive at Ouest; most others use Sud. At both terminals, arrivals are on the ground level (level 0) and departures are on level 1. You can connect the two terminals with the free Orlyval shuttle train (well-signed).
Services: Both terminals have Paris Tourisme desks in the arrivals area (a good spot to buy the Paris Museum Pass and tickets for public transit into Paris). There are also airport information desks (called ADP) with information on flights, public transit into Paris, and help with other airport-related questions. Both terminals offer free Wi-Fi.
Shuttle buses (navettes), suburban trains, taxis, and airport vans connect Paris with either terminal. Bus stops and taxis are centrally located at arrivals levels and are well-signed.
By Bus or Tram: Bus bays are found in the Sud terminal outside exits L and G, and in the Ouest terminal outside exit D.
Le Bus Direct route #1 runs to Gare Montparnasse, Eiffel Tower, Trocadéro, and Arc de Triomphe/Etoile stops (all stops have connections to Métro lines). For Rue Cler hotels, take Le Bus Direct to the Eiffel Tower stop (20 Avenue de Suffren, see map on 216), then walk 15 minutes across the Champ de Mars park to your hotel. Buses depart from the arrivals level—Ouest exit B-C or Sud exit L—look for signs to navettes (€12 one-way, €20 round-trip, 4/hour, 40 minutes to the Eiffel Tower, buy ticket from driver or book online, store the ticket on your smartphone or print it out and bring your ticket with you). See www.lebusdirect.com for details on round-trip and group discounts.
For the cheapest (but slow) access to the Marais area, take tram line 7 from outside the Sud terminal (direction: Villejuif-Louis Aragon) to the Villejuif station to catch Métro line 7 (you’ll need one Métro ticket for the tram and one for the Métro—buy a carnet of 10 tickets at the Paris Tourisme desk in the terminal, 4/hour, 45 minutes to Villejuif Métro station, then 15-minute Métro ride to the Marais).
By Suburban Train: The next two options take you to Train-B, with access to the Luxembourg Garden area, Notre-Dame Cathedral, handy Métro line 1 at the Châtelet stop, Gare du Nord, and Charles de Gaulle Airport. The Orlybus goes directly to the Denfert-Rochereau Métro and Train-B stations (€8, 3/hour, 30 minutes).
The pricier but more frequent—and more comfortable—Orlyval shuttle train takes you to the Antony Train-B station (€12.05, 6/hour, 40 minutes, buy ticket to Paris—not just to Antony—before boarding, smart to purchase your 10-ticket carnet for the Métro here too). The Orlyval train is well-signed and leaves from the departure level at both Orly terminals. Once at the Train-B station, take the train in direction: Mitry-Claye or Aéroport Charles de Gaulle to reach central Paris stops.
For access to Left Bank neighborhoods via Train-C, take the bus marked Go Paris to the Pont de Rungis station, then catch Train-C (direction: Versailles Château Rive Gauche or Pontoise) to St. Michel, Musée d’Orsay, Invalides, or Pont de l’Alma (€1.90 shuttle only, €6.25 combo-ticket includes Train-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes).
By Taxi: Taxis are outside the Ouest terminal exit B, and to the far right as you leave the Sud terminal at exit M. Allow 30 minutes for a taxi ride into central Paris (fixed fare of €30 for Left Bank, €35 for Right Bank).
By Uber: Head toward exit B, following signs for Pre-Ordered Vehicles. Meet your Uber driver in the lot labeled Parking Pro (same fixed rate as taxis for central Paris).
By Airport Van: From Orly, figure about €23 for one person or €30 for two (less per person for larger groups and kids). For more on airport vans, see here.
The Magical Shuttle bus to Disneyland departs from the main bus bays at both terminals (€23, €10 for kids under 12, runs hourly about 9:00-20:00, 45 minutes, www.magicalshuttle.co.uk).
Budget airlines such as Ryanair use this small airport with two terminals (T-1 and T-2), offering dirt-cheap airfares but leaving you 50 miles north of Paris. Still, this airport has direct buses to Paris and is handy for travelers heading to Normandy or Belgium (car rental available). The airport is basic, waiting areas can be crowded, and services are sparse, but improvements are gradually on the way (airport code: BVA, airport toll tel. 08 92 68 20 66, www.aeroportbeauvais.paris).
By Bus: Buses depart from a stop between the two terminals (€17 one-way, 2/hour, 1.5 hours to reach Paris, buy ticket online to save time, http://tickets.aeroportbeauvais.com). Buses arrive at Porte Maillot on the west edge of Paris (where you can connect to Métro line 1 and Train-C); the closest taxi stand is next door at the Hôtel Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile.
Buses heading to Beauvais Airport leave from Porte Maillot. Catch the bus in the parking lot on Boulevard Pershing next to the Hyatt Regency.
By Train: Trains connect Beauvais’ city center and Paris’ Gare du Nord (20/day, 1.5 hours). To reach the Beauvais train station, take the Hôtel/Aéroport Navette shuttle or local bus #12 (each hourly, 25 minutes).
By Taxi: Cabs run from Beauvais Airport to the Beauvais train station or city center (€20), or to central Paris (allow €150 and 1.5 hours).
The Magical Shuttle bus to Disneyland is available by appointment from Beauvais via Charles de Gaulle Airport (price varies with number of passengers, 2-3/day, 2.5 hours, www.magicalshuttle.co.uk).
Le Bus Direct #3 directly and conveniently links Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports (€21, stops at Charles de Gaulle T-1 and T-2 and Orly Ouest exit B-C or Sud exit L, roughly 2/hour 5:45-23:00, 1 hour, www.lebusdirect.com).
Suburban Train-B connects Charles de Gaulle and Orly but requires a transfer to the Orlyval train. It isn’t as easy as the Le Bus Direct mentioned above, but it’s faster when there’s traffic (€19, 5/hour, 1.5 hours). This line splits at both ends: Heading from Charles de Gaulle to Orly, take trains that serve the Antony stop (direction: St-Rémy-les-Chevreuse), then transfer to the Orlyval shuttle train; heading from Orly to Charles de Gaulle, take trains that end at the airport—Aéroport Charles de Gaulle-Roissy, not Mitry-Claye.
Taxis take about one hour and are easiest, but pricey (about €85).
You can connect Charles de Gaulle to Beauvais via train. From Charles de Gaulle, take Train-B to Gare du Nord, catch a train to the town of Beauvais, and then a shuttle or local bus to Beauvais Airport (see above).
Taxis between Charles de Gaulle and Beauvais take one hour and cost about €120.
To transfer from Orly to Beauvais, you can take the Orlybus or Orlyval shuttle train (described earlier, under “Orly Airport”) to the suburban train station, then hop on Train-B to Gare du Nord. From there, catch a train to the town of Beauvais and then a shuttle or local bus to the airport (see “Beauvais Airport,” earlier).
It’s about a 1.5-hour taxi ride between Orly and Beauvais (about €165).
In this section, I provide an overview of Paris’ major train stations and specialty train routes from Paris (including the Eurostar). For more details on looking up train schedules, buying tickets, and using France’s long-distance rail system, see here.
Paris is Europe’s rail hub, with six major stations and one minor one, and trains heading in different directions:
• Gare du Nord (northbound trains)
• Gare Montparnasse (west- and southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Lyon (southeast-bound trains)
• Gare de l’Est (eastbound trains)
• Gare St. Lazare (northwest-bound trains)
• Gare d’Austerlitz (southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Bercy (smaller station with non-TGV southbound trains)
The main train stations all have free Wi-Fi, banks or currency exchanges, ATMs, train information desks, telephones, cafés, newsstands, and clever pickpockets (pay attention in ticket lines—keep your bag firmly gripped in front of you). Because of security concerns, not all have baggage checks.
Any train station has schedule information, can make reservations, and can sell tickets for any destination. Buying tickets can be handier from an SNCF neighborhood office (see the “SNCF Boutiques” sidebar on here).
Each station offers two types of rail service: long distance to other cities, called Grandes Lignes (major lines, TGV—also called “InOui”—or TER trains); and commuter service to nearby areas, called Banlieue, Transilien, or suburban trains (lines A-K). You also may see ticket windows identified as Ile de France. These are for Transilien trains serving destinations outside Paris in the Ile de France region (usually no more than an hour from Paris). When arriving by Métro, follow signs for Grandes Lignes-SNCF to find the main tracks. Métro and suburban train lines A-K, as well as buses and taxis, are well marked at every station.
Budget plenty of time before your departure to factor in ticket lines and making your way through large, crowded stations. Paris train stations can be intimidating, but if you slow down, take a deep breath, and ask for help, you’ll find them manageable and efficient. Bring a pad of paper and a pen for clear communication at ticket/info windows. It helps to write down the ticket you want. For instance: “28/05/18 Paris-NordLyon dep. 18:30.” All stations have a central information booth (accueil); bigger stations have roving helpers, usually wearing red or blue vests. They’re capable of answering rail questions more quickly than the staff at the information desks or ticket windows. I make a habit of confirming my track number and departure time with these helpers (all rail staff speak English).
Ticket sales are often split between trains leaving today (Departs pour ce jour) and departures for another day (Departs pour un autre jour). You may need to use touch-screen computers at the entrance (English available) to get a ticket-window number. Remember to validate your ticket in the yellow machines by the train platforms before boarding.
The granddaddy of Paris’ train stations serves cities in northern France and international destinations north of Paris, including Copenhagen, Amsterdam, and the Eurostar to London, as well as two of the day trips described in this book (Chantilly and Auvers-sur-Oise). The station is undergoing a €600-million renovation that won’t be finished until 2024—expect changes and construction disruptions.
From the Métro, follow Gare du Nord signs through a maze of escalators and mezzanines to reach the tracks at street level. Grandes Lignes (main line) trains depart from tracks 2-21 (tracks 20 and 21 are around the corner), Banlieue/Transilien lines from tracks 30-36 (signed Réseau Ile-de-France), and suburban train lines (B, D, H, and K) from tracks 37-44. Tracks 41-44 are one floor below. A glass train-information booth (accueil) is opposite track 10; look also for circulating information-helpers.
There’s a helpful TI (labeled Paris Tourisme) kiosk near track 19 that sells Paris Museum Passes and fast-pass “coupe-file” tickets (credit cards only). Information booths for the Thalys trains (high-speed trains to Brussels and Amsterdam; see here) are opposite track 4. Ask at the train information booth at track 10 for international and main-line ticket sales. Tickets for other trains are sold at the windows past track 19.
Eurostar trains (to London via the Chunnel) check in on the second level, up the stairs near track 17. For more on the Eurostar, see here.
Clean pay WCs are down the stairs across from track 10. Baggage check and rental cars are near track 3 and down the steps. Taxis are out the door past track 3. Steps down to the Métro are opposite tracks 10 and 19.
Key Destinations Served by Gare du Nord Grandes Lignes: Auvers-sur-Oise (hourly, 1.5 hours with transfer, one direct train April-Oct Sat-Sun only at about 9:30, 45 minutes, may not appear on rail websites except www.vianavigo.com, usually leaves from track 36), Chantilly-Gouvieux (look for destination “Creil” or “Compiègne,” hourly, fewer on weekends, 25 minutes, also served by slower Train-D), Brussels (at least hourly, 1.5 hours), Bruges (at least hourly, 2.5-3 hours, change in Brussels), Amsterdam (9/day direct, 3.5 hours), Berlin (4/day, 8.5 hours, change in Cologne or Dortmund), Koblenz (4/day, 5 hours, change in Cologne, more from Gare de l’Est that don’t cross Belgium), and London by Eurostar (1-2/hour, 2.5 hours).
By Banlieue/Suburban Lines: Chantilly-Gouvieux (3/hour, 50 minutes), Charles de Gaulle Airport (4/hour, 35 minutes, track 41-44), and Pontoise (2/hour, 50 minutes).
This big, modern station covers three floors, serves lower Normandy and Brittany, and has TGV service to the Loire Valley and southwestern France, as well as suburban service to Chartres.
Baggage check (consignes) and WCs are on the mezzanine (entresol) level. Most services are provided on the top level (second floor up, Hall 1), where all trains arrive and depart. Trains to Chartres usually depart from tracks 18-24, and the main rail information office (accueil) is opposite track 16. As you face the tracks, to the far left and outside are Le Bus Direct buses to Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports (on Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte). Taxis are to the far right as you face the tracks. Car-rental desks are also to the right, along track 24 and up the escalator to Hall 2 (except Hertz, which is outside the station at 15 Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte).
City buses are out front, between the train station and the Montparnasse Tower (down the escalator through the glassy facade). Bus #96 is good for connecting to Marais and Luxembourg area hotels, while #92 is ideal for Rue Cler hotels (both easier than the Métro).
Key Destinations Served by Gare Montparnasse: Chartres (14/day, 1 hour), Amboise (8/day in 1.5 hours with change in St-Pierre-des-Corps, requires TGV reservation; non-TGV trains leave from Gare d’Austerlitz), Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (5/day, 4 hours, via Rennes; faster if you take the super high-speed LRV train), Dinan (6/day, 3-4 hours, change in Rennes and Dol), Bordeaux (20/day, 2 hours), Sarlat (3/day, 5.5-6 hours, change in Bordeaux), Toulouse (5/day, 4.5 hours), Albi (6/day, 7-8.5 hours, may change in Toulouse--may not run every day), Tours (8/day, 1 hour), Madrid (2/day, 13-14 hours, 3-4 changes), and Lisbon (2/day, 21-24 hours via Irun).
This huge, bewildering station offers TGV and regular service to southeastern France, Italy, Switzerland, and other international destinations. Frequent Banlieue trains serve Fontainebleau.
From the suburban train or Métro, follow signs for Grandes Lignes/Gare de Lyon to reach the street-level platforms (Grandes Lignes and Banlieue lines share the same tracks). Platforms are divided into two areas: Hall 1 (tracks A-N, shaded in light blue on signs) and Hall 2 (tracks 5-23, shaded in yellow). Hall 3 is underground with more ticket offices, food services, and quieter waiting areas—but no trains.
Monitors indicate the hall number well before the track number is posted, so you know in advance which hall your train leaves from. An interior corridor connecting Halls 1 and 2 (by track A) offers many services, including shops and ticket windows for Grandes Lignes and suburban trains (billets Ile de France). Hall 2 has the best services—including a train information office, pharmacy, and a handy Monop grocery store. You’ll find baggage check (consignes) in Hall 2 down the ramp, opposite track 17, and in Hall 1, downstairs by track M. Car rental is out the exit past track M (Hall 1).
Don’t leave the station without at least taking a peek at the recommended Le Train Bleu Restaurant in Hall 1, up the stairs opposite tracks G-L (see listing on here). Its pricey but atmospheric bar/lounge works well as a quiet waiting area—and there’s free (and fast) Wi-Fi. Slip into a leather chair and time travel back to another era.
Taxi stands are well-signed in front of, and underneath, the station. Le Bus Direct coaches—to Gare Montparnasse (easy transfer to Orly Airport) and direct to Charles de Gaulle Airport—stop outside the station’s main entrance. They are signed Navette-Aéroport. To find them, exit Hall 1 with your back to track A. Walk down the ramp toward the Café Européen. Turn right at the street (Boulevard Diderot), walk a block, and find the shelter with the airplane icon on top. (Buses normally depart at :15 and :45 after the hour; see here).
Key Destinations Served by Gare de Lyon: Fontainebleau (nearly hourly, 45 minutes; depart from the Grandes Lignes level), Disneyland (Train-A to Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy, at least 3/hour, 45 minutes), Beaune (roughly hourly at rush hour but few midday, 2.5 hours, most require change in Dijon; direct trains from Paris’ Bercy station take an hour longer), Dijon (TGV trains only, roughly hourly, 1.5 hours; see Gare de Bercy for local trains), Chamonix (7/day, 5.5-7 hours, some change in Switzerland), Annecy (hourly, 4 hours, many with change in Lyon), Lyon (at least hourly, 2 hours), Avignon (10/day direct, 2.5 hours to Avignon TGV Station, 5/day in 3.5 hours to Avignon Centre-Ville Station, more connections with change—3-4 hours), Arles (11/day, 2 direct TGVs—4 hours, 9 with change in Avignon—5 hours), Nice (hourly, 6 hours, may require change), Carcassonne (8/day, 7-8 hours, 1 change), Zürich (4/day direct, 4 hours), Venice (4/day, 9.5-11.5 hours with 1-3 changes; 1 direct overnight, 14.5 hours, operated by Thello—which doesn’t accept rail passes, important to reserve ahead at www.thello.com), Rome (2/day, 10.5-12 hours, 1-3 changes), Bern (1/day direct, 6/day with change in Basel, 4-5 hours), Interlaken (1/day direct, 4/day with change in Basel, 5-5.5 hours, 8/day more from Gare de l’Est), and Barcelona (2-4/day direct, 6.5 hours).
This two-floor station (with underground Métro) serves northeastern France and international destinations east of Paris. It’s easy to navigate: All trains depart at street level from tracks 1-30. On departure monitors, trains marked with a yellow square leave from tracks 2-12, while those marked with a blue square depart from tracks 23-30 (suburban Banlieue trains depart from tracks 13-22).
A train information office is opposite track 9, and behind it are the main ticket windows. A handy TI is opposite track 2 (Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00, closed Sun). Most other services are opposite tracks 12-20 (baggage lockers, car rental, WC, small grocery store, shops, and Métro access). Access to taxis and buses is in front of the station (exit with your back to the tracks).
Key Destinations Served by Gare de l’Est: Vaux-le-Vicomte (take train to Verneuil-l’Etang, direction: Provins, 1/hour, 30 minutes, and catch connecting bus from there, see here for details), Colmar (12/day with TGV, 3.5 hours, change in Strasbourg), Strasbourg (hourly with TGV, 2.5 hours), Reims Centre station (12/day with TGV, 50 minutes), Verdun (3/day direct via TGV and shuttle bus, 1.5 hours; 3.5 hours by regional train with transfer in Chalôns-en-Champagne), Interlaken (8/day, 6.5-8.5 hours, 1-2 changes, faster trains from Gare de Lyon), Zürich (12/day, 5-7 hours, 1-2 changes, faster direct trains from Gare de Lyon), Frankfurt (4 direct/day, 4 hours; 3 more/day with change in Karlsruhe, 4.5 hours), Vienna (7/day, 11-12 hours, 1-3 changes), Prague (3/day, 11 hours, 1-2 changes), Munich (1/day direct, 6/day with 1 change, 6 hours), and Berlin (3/day, 8.5 hours, change in Frankfurt).
This compact station serves upper Normandy, including Rouen and Giverny. All trains arrive and depart one floor above street level.
From the Métro, follow signs to Grandes Lignes to reach the tracks (long walk). Grandes Lignes to all destinations listed below depart from tracks 18-27; Banlieue trains depart from 1-16. The ticket office and car rental are near track 27. The main train information office (accueil) is near track 21; others are scattered about the station. WCs are opposite track 17. This station has no baggage check, but it does have a three-floor shopping mall (Monop grocery store, pharmacy, clothing stores, and more). Taxis, the Métro, and buses are well signed.
Key Destinations Served by Gare St. Lazare: Giverny (train to Vernon, 8/day Mon-Sat, 6/day Sun, 45 minutes), Pontoise (1-2/hour, 45 minutes), Rouen (nearly hourly, 1.5 hours), Le Havre (hourly, 2.5 hours, some change in Rouen), Honfleur (13/day, 2-3.5 hours, via Lisieux, Deauville, or Le Havre, then bus), Bayeux (9/day, 2.5 hours, some change in Caen), Caen (14/day, 2 hours), and Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (2/day, 4-5.5 hours, via Caen; more trains from Gare Montparnasse).
This small station currently provides non-TGV service to the Loire Valley, southwestern France, and Spain (several tracks are being retrofitted to accommodate TGV trains in the near future). All tracks are at street level. The information booth and a comfortable waiting room are opposite track 17, and all ticket sales are in the entry hall. Baggage check and car rental are along the side of the station, opposite track 21. You’ll find WCs (with €10 showers that include towel and soap) at track 21. To get to the Métro and Train-C, you must walk outside and along either side of the station. To reach Gare de Lyon on foot (a level 10-minute walk), follow signs opposite track 1.
Key Destinations Served by Gare d’Austerlitz: Orly Airport (via Train-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes), Versailles (via Train-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes), Amboise (3/day direct in 2 hours, more with transfer; faster TGV connection from Gare Montparnasse), Sarlat (1/day, 6.5 hours, requires change to bus in Souillac, 3 more/day via Gare Montparnasse), and Cahors (5/day, 5 hours; slower trains from Gare Montparnasse).
This smaller station mostly handles southbound non-TGV trains such as to Dijon (6/day, 3 hours), but some TGV trains do stop here in peak season (Mo: Bercy, one stop east of Gare de Lyon on line 14, exit the Bercy Métro station and it’s across the street). Facilities are limited—just a WC and a sandwich-fare takeout café.
The pricey Thalys train has the monopoly on the rail route between Paris and Brussels. Without a rail pass, for the Paris-Amsterdam train, you’ll pay about €80-205 first class, €35-135 second class (compared to €38-50 by bus); for the Paris-Brussels train it’s €65-140 first class, €30-100 second class (€20-30 by bus). Even with a rail pass, you need to pay for train reservations (first class-€30-35, includes a meal; second class-€20-25). Book early for the best rates (discounted seats are limited, www.thalys.com).
Thalys also operates a slower, cheaper Paris-to-Brussels train called IZY (2-3/day, 2.5 hours, tickets from €10 for standing room to €29 full fare, rail passes not accepted, luggage limits, online only at www.izy.com). For another cheap option, try Flixbus or OuiBus (see “Paris Bus Connections,” later).
A TGV train called OuiGo (pronounced “we go”) offers a direct connection from Disneyland Paris and Charles de Gaulle Airport to select cities in southern and western France at rock-bottom fares with no-frills service. The catch: Some trains leave from the Marne-la-Vallée TGV station, an hour from Paris on suburban Train-A. So you can hang at Disneyland Paris before (or after) your trip and connect with a direct TGV. Or you can catch it at Charles de Gaulle Airport. You must print your ticket ahead of time, arrive 30 minutes before departure, and activate your ticket. Rail passes are not accepted, and you can only bring one carry-on-size bag plus one handbag for free (children’s tickets allow you to bring a stroller). Larger or extra luggage is €5/bag if you pay when you buy your ticket. If you just show up without paying in advance, it’s €20/bag on the train—yikes. There’s no food service on the train (BYO), but children under age 12 pay only €5 for a seat. The website explains it all in easy-to-understand English (www.ouigo.com).
The fastest and most convenient way to get from the Eiffel Tower to Big Ben is by rail. Eurostar zips you (and up to 800 others in 18 sleek cars) from downtown Paris to downtown London at 190 mph in 2.5 hours (1-2/hour). The tunnel crossing is a 20-minute, silent, 100-mile-per-hour nonevent. Your ears won’t even pop.
Eurostar Fares: Eurostar fares vary depending on how far ahead you reserve and whether you’re eligible for any discounts. A one-way, full-fare ticket runs about $225 (Standard), $310 (Standard Premier), and $380 (Business Premier). Discounts can lower fares substantially (figure $45-160 for Standard class, one-way) for children under 12, youths under 26, and adults booking months ahead or traveling round-trip. The early bird gets the best price. If you’re ready to commit, you can book tickets as early as 4-9 months in advance.
Rail Pass Coverage: A Eurail Pass that includes France also covers the Eurostar, but you must buy a seat reservation (€30 Standard, €38 Standard Premier). Since some advance tickets can be almost this cheap, compare rates available when you’re ready to reserve and consider whether you’ll use the pass to travel any further on the same day.
Buying Eurostar Tickets: Because only the most expensive (Business Premier) ticket is refundable, and other rates have exchange restrictions, don’t reserve until you’re sure of your plans. But if you wait too long, the cheapest tickets will be gone.
You can buy tickets online using the print-at-home eticket option at www.ricksteves.com/eurostar or www.eurostar.com. You can also order by phone through Rail Europe (US tel. 800-387-6782) for home delivery before you go, or through Eurostar (French toll tel. 08 92 35 35 39, priced in euros) to pick up at the train station. In continental Europe you can buy your Eurostar tickets at any major train station in any country, at neighborhood SNCF offices (see the “SNCF Boutiques” sidebar, earlier), or at any travel agency that handles train tickets (booking fee).
Seat reservations for rail pass holders (which can sell out) are available at Eurostar departure stations, through US agents, or by phone with Eurostar. It’s smart to book seat reservations online in advance at www.ricksteves.com/eurostar or through Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com).
Taking the Eurostar: Eurostar trains depart from and arrive at Paris’ Gare du Nord (see here). Check in at least 45 minutes in advance (remember that times listed on tickets are local times—departure from Paris is French time, arrival in London is British time). Pass through airport-like security, show your passport to customs officials, and locate your departure gate (shown on a TV monitor). The currency-exchange booth here has rates about the same as you’ll find on the other end. There’s a reasonable restaurant before the first check-in point, but there are only a couple of tiny sandwich-and-coffee counters in the cramped waiting area.
Crossing the Channel Without Eurostar: For speed and affordability, look into cheap flights (see here). The old-fashioned ways of crossing the Channel are cheaper than Eurostar (taking the bus is cheapest; see later)—but twice as complicated and time-consuming.
To go by train and boat to London, take the TGV train from Paris to Calais, then catch a P&O ferry to Dover, England (hourly, 1.5 hours, www.poferries.com). From Dover’s Priory Station, take a train to London’s St. Pancras, Charing Cross, or Victoria Station (hourly, 1.5-2 hours).
Below I’ve provided some information for travelers not arriving by plane or train.
Buses generally provide the cheapest—if less comfortable and more time-consuming—transportation to major European cities. The bus is also the cheapest way to cross the English Channel; book at least two days in advance for the best fares. Eurolines is the old standby; two relative newcomers (Ouibus and Flixbus) are cutting prices drastically for travelers and amping up onboard comfort with snacks you can purchase, Wi-Fi, and easy, online booking. These companies provide service usually between train stations and airports within France and to many international destinations.
OuiBus has routes mostly within France but serves some European cities as well (central Paris stop is at Gare de Bercy, Mo: Bercy, toll tel. 08 92 68 00 68, www.ouibus.com). German-run FlixBus connects key cities within France and throughout Europe, often from secondary airports and train stations (central Paris stop is near Porte Maillot at 16 Boulevard Pershing, Mo: Porte Maillot, handy eticket system and easy-to-use app, tel. 01 76 36 04 12, www.flixbus.com). Eurolines’ buses depart from Paris’ Gare Routière du Paris-Gallieni in the suburb of Bagnolet (28 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, Mo: Gallieni, toll tel. 08 92 89 90 91; from the US, dial 011 33 1 41 86 24 21, www.eurolines.com).
Street parking is generally free at night (20:00-9:00) and all day Sunday. To pay for streetside parking, you must go to a tabac and buy a parking card (une carte de stationnement called Paris Carte), sold in €10 and €30 denominations (figure €4/hour in central Paris). Insert the card into the meter (chip-side in) and punch the desired amount of time, then take the receipt and display it in your windshield. Meters limit street parking to a maximum of two hours.
Underground garages are plentiful in Paris. You’ll find them under Ecole Militaire, St. Sulpice Church, Les Invalides, the Bastille, and the Panthéon; all charge about €35-50/day (€66/3 days, €10/day more after that, for locations see www.vincipark.com). Some hotels offer parking for less—ask your hotelier.
For a longer stay, park at an airport (about €15/day) and take public transport or a taxi into the city. Orly is closer and easier for drivers to navigate than Charles de Gaulle.
Though it’s a landlocked city, Paris is a popular cruise destination. Ships visiting “Paris” actually call at the industrial city of Le Havre, France’s second-biggest port (after Marseille), and the primary French port on the English Channel.
Paris and Le Havre are connected by train (about 2 hours each way). To get from the port to the Le Havre train/bus station, you can ride a cruise-line shuttle bus, take a taxi, or walk about 35 minutes. From there, trains leave about every 1-2 hours for the 2-hour journey to Paris’ St. Lazare station (fewer on weekends).
If you’d rather stick closer to your ship, consider these alternatives: the harbor town of Honfleur (30 minutes by bus); the historic D-Day beaches (an hour or so to the west); and the pleasant small city of Rouen (one hour by train).
For port information, see www.lehavretourisme.com (choose “To Discover,” then “The cruise destination”). For more about Le Havre, see my Rick Steves Northern European Cruise Ports guidebook.