Welcome to Rick Steves’ Europe
Map: PLACES COVERED IN THIS BOOK
Iceland’s Best Short Trips by Car
Iceland’s Best 10-Day Road Trip
Iceland, the land of the midnight sun and the northern lights, is equally famous for its magnificent glaciers and its active volcanoes. Magma bubbling up between tectonic plates formed this rugged island, leaving it stranded halfway between North America and Europe. Until recently a poor, backward corner of Scandinavia, today it’s one of Europe’s most expensive countries. Over the last few years, Iceland has vaulted from obscurity to become one of the planet’s trendiest places—a can’t-miss destination for curious travelers.
With its stunning natural wonders, kind and gregarious people, and unique attractions, this little island stubbornly exceeds the lofty expectations of its many visitors. Most people’s single biggest regret after visiting Iceland? That they tried to squeeze it into just a day or two, instead of investing the time to see more of its striking landscape.
Iceland floats alone where the North Atlantic and Arctic oceans meet, just a smidge below the Arctic Circle. Its closest neighbors are Greenland, to the west, and the Faroe Islands, to the southeast. The remote island was uninhabited until the ninth century, when, at the height of the Viking Age, it was settled by farmers looking for a good place to graze their sheep. It remained a land of isolated farms for about a millennium. Up until the late 1800s, Iceland had very few towns aside from Reykjavík. If you stay in the countryside today, you can get close to the agrarian Iceland that existed for centuries. Some farms have a storied history, going back hundreds of years.
Fields of lupine in Iceland’s southeast corner; a monster truck gets you into the interior Highlands.
Social movements that sparked upheaval elsewhere—Christianization, Reformation, independence—arrived in Iceland with strangely little fuss. The country’s Viking Age roots and its historic connections to Norway and Denmark give it an unmistakably Nordic aura, while the long-time presence of an American naval base developed Iceland’s affinity for all things Yankee. Today, Iceland feels like it has one foot in Europe, and the other in America.
About 830 miles across, Iceland is roughly the size of Maine and smaller than the island of Great Britain. More than half of the country is uninhabited tundra (in the interior Highlands). Almost all of its 340,000 residents live near the coastline, and two-thirds of Icelanders reside in the capital region of Reykjavík, on the southwest coast.
For the traveler, Reykjavík is the natural jumping-off point for exploring Iceland’s dramatic countryside. It’s an easy hop from Reykjavík to the inland Golden Circle route, studded with natural and historic attractions (from geysers to thundering waterfalls), or south to the famous Blue Lagoon thermal baths (on the Reykjanes Peninsula, near Keflavík Airport). Two hours away, the South Coast offers glaciers, black sand beaches, and a jagged volcanic landscape. And an hour’s drive north of Reykjavík is West Iceland, with Settlement Age history and a volcanic tube cave.
The country’s name is “Ice-land,” but that’s only part of the story. This little island features a stunning diversity of landscapes—from frigid glaciers to boiling geysers, and from towering mountains to dreamy fjords. That’s why, for most visitors, Iceland’s raw, awe-inspiring nature is its biggest draw.
Iceland, which plugs the gap between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, was formed long ago by volcanoes (eldfjöll, “fire mountains”)—and regular eruptions continue. The best known include those at Surtsey (1963), which added a new island off Iceland’s South Coast, and on Heimaey (1973), which increased the size of that little island by a square mile. In 2010, the infamous Eyjafjallajökull volcano blew a column of ash four miles into the atmosphere that drifted east to Europe, halting air travel.
Odds are you won’t witness an eruption during your visit; Iceland weathers about one every five years. Even so, it’s impossible to come to Iceland without experiencing its volcanic landscapes: Keflavík Airport sits on a petrified lava flow. Things just get more interesting from there, from trapped-in-time sheets of lava, to giant burst bubbles of molten rock, to craters holding vibrantly colored (and still steaming) lakes.
Iceland’s highest volcanic peaks are capped by glaciers (jöklar, singular jökull)—frozen seas of ice, flowing at a rate of a few feet each day. About 11 percent of the country is covered by glaciers, mostly along the South Coast and in the unpopulated Highlands in the island’s center. At Sólheimajökull, you can walk up and touch a glacier; at Jökulsárlón and Fjallsárlón, you can ride a boat on a glacier lagoon, circling bobbing icebergs calved off from an icy tongue; at various places, you can hike or snowmobile across the top of a glacier, or enter an ice cave within one.
Evidence of Iceland’s powerful natural forces: exploding geysers, gushing magma, and volcanic craters.
After nearly 1,200 years of taming their volatile island, Icelanders have harnessed geothermal energy in ways both practical (to heat their homes and generate electricity) and hedonistic. To literally immerse yourself in Iceland’s volcanic landscape, visit one (or, better yet, several) of its naturally occurring thermal baths. Free hot springs and pools dot the island, attracting Icelanders year-round. Some are easy to reach by car, while others require a bit of a hike—but your reward is a long soak in toasty water surrounded by an incredible landscape. For a less rugged experience, visit a municipal swimming pool—with water naturally heated to around 100°F—or go to one of Iceland’s well-advertised premium baths (such as the Blue Lagoon).
Iceland’s landscape is dramatic, but there are many ways to make it accessible. The Icelandic Experiences chapter is designed to inspire you with ways you can connect to Icelandic nature, then point you to the details elsewhere in this book. Enjoy!
Hike to a glacier’s edge; visit a geothermal plant; soak in a thermal bath.
But the ultimate Icelandic thrill is an 800-mile road trip, circling the entire island on the Ring Road (highway 1). Give the Ring Road enough time, and it’ll give you charming waterfront towns (Borgarnes, Siglufjörður, Húsavík, and Seyðisfjörður), a pint-sized second city (Akureyri), simmering volcanic landscapes (near Mývatn), jagged fjords (the Eastfjords), and glaciers and glacier lagoons (on the southeast coast).
Iceland has a rich folklore and a strong connection between its heritage and its landscape. It seems every rock has a thousand-year-old name and a legend to go with it. With cinematic scenery and abundant opportunities to experience nature in its rawest form, Iceland thrills outdoorsy travelers. Snowmobile across a glacier. Zip over the waves on a rigid inflatable boat while scanning the horizon for breaching whales or breeding puffins. Go for a ride on an Icelandic horse, hoping to feel the rhythm of its elusive “fifth gait.” Scuba or snorkel in a tectonic rift flooded with crystal-clear glacial water. Hike from hut to hut, tracing the path of lava from a (currently) dormant volcano.
For a quintessentially Icelandic experience, be sure to soak in one of the country’s spring-fed thermal baths. The spa-like Blue Lagoon—with milky blue water filling a volcanic reservoir—is the most famous (and most expensive). But every village has its own municipal swimming pool filled with piping-hot water. Those who love the out-of-doors can find free and hidden opportunities for an al fresco soak throughout the countryside.
Little churches and little horses dot the landscape.
Iceland’s natural splendors are what attract most visitors, but Icelanders are also worth getting to know. They have a gentle spirit and a can-do frontier attitude. They’re also whip-smart (Icelandic scholars were the first to write down the legends and histories of the early Scandinavian peoples—collectively called the “sagas”). Enjoy meeting the easygoing Icelanders; in this little country, everyone’s on a first-name basis.
Two often-repeated Icelandic phrases offer insight into the local psyche: kærulaus (loosely, “careless”) describes the flexible, improvisational, sometimes inconsiderate way Icelanders move through life. And an Icelander facing an unexpected challenge might mutter, “Þetta reddast” (“It’ll work out”)...and in this mellow land, it usually does (with some major exceptions, like Iceland’s economic crash in 2008).
Iceland has a rich cuisine scene. Trendy restaurants are enthusiastically organic—literally wallpapered with fish skin and serving gourmet delights on slabs of rock or rustic little planks. There are few places with fresher seafood—haddock, cod, arctic char, halibut, the controversial minke whale, and the delectable humar (langoustine). The rolling, green countryside teems with free-range sheep grazing on grass that seasons a tender and delicious meat. Soup is an Icelandic staple, and every grandma has her own secret recipe for kjötsúpa (lamb soup). And Icelandic skyr—a yogurt-like, dairy food that’s been around since Viking times—is newly trendy in American groceries.
Iceland is also famous for its notorious “hardship foods”: an entire boiled sheep’s head (svið), jerky-like dried cod snacks (harðfiskur), and the notorious hákarl—gelatinous, unbelievably pungent fermented shark. Locals scarcely eat these anymore, of course, but tourists do...usually on a dare.
Summer or winter, be prepared to bundle up (pack gloves, sturdy boots, and a waterproof jacket). While conditions overall are surprisingly moderate for the latitude, frosty temperatures and bone-chilling wind can happen at any time of year. Icelanders use the term gluggaveður (“window weather”) to describe weather that’s pleasant to look at—from indoors. Blustery days arrive frequently, especially in winter, when strong low-pressure systems roll in regularly, whipping high winds across the whole island. It’s not just a little unpleasant to be outside in high winds—you may literally not be able to walk, or open your car door.
Typically, two or three days of cloudy, drizzly skies alternate with two or three days of relatively sunny weather. The cloudy periods lengthen in winter, the sunny periods in summer. It rains often in Reykjavík, but pouring rain is infrequent. Lightning is rare enough to make the evening news.
On the plus side, Iceland is mosquito-free. No one knows exactly why, since the little buggers thrive quite happily in neighboring Greenland. Swarming midges vex visitors to lake Mývatn, but at least they don’t bite.
Few places—especially one so remote and cold—have become so popular, so quickly. But Iceland’s striking glaciers, craggy peaks, and steamy geysers make this destination increasingly attractive to the inquisitive and the adventurous. Whether or not you can pronounce the names on its map, Iceland is a rewarding place to travel.
There’s so much to see in Iceland, and so little time. This overview breaks the country’s top destinations into must-see sights (to help first-time travelers plan their trip) and worth-it sights (for those with additional time). I’ve also suggested a minimum number of days to allow per destination.
Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík, is the natural hub for any visit, with an excellent assortment of accommodations, restaurants, shops, and nightlife. But, while Reykjavík easily has enough sights of its own to fill a day or two, with limited time, I’d spend my evenings in Reykjavík and my days in the countryside—at these top choices:
Iceland’s quintessential day trip is deservedly popular. You’ll loop through eye-popping terrain, with stops at Þingvellir (site of Iceland’s Viking Age gatherings, situated along a jagged tectonic fissure); Geysir (a steamy field that’s home to the world’s original “geyser”); and Gullfoss (a thundering waterfall). Along the way, you can tiptoe around the rim of a volcanic crater, visit Iceland’s medieval religious center, and take your pick of thermal bath experiences.
This dramatic shoreline, shaped by volcanoes and glaciers, rivals the Golden Circle as Reykjavík’s top day trip. You’ll see spectacular waterfalls tumble over high cliffs, touch the tongue of a glacier, stroll along a black sand beach, and learn about the majestic power of volcanoes. Nearby, avid hikers can make the Þórsmörk nature reserve (nestled between three glaciers) a ▲▲ full day on its own.
This top-end thermal bathing complex, nestled in a volcanic landscape a 45-minute drive south of Reykjavík (and near Keflavík Airport), is relaxing and memorable, and a delightful toe-in-the-water dip into Iceland’s thermal bathing culture.
Þingvellir and Geysir, on the Golden Circle
Blue Lagoon
On a longer visit, these stops—rated ▲ or ▲▲—deserve consideration. All are within easy day-tripping distance of Reykjavík—except the Ring Road, which demands several days.
An ideal home base for a visit of any length, Reykjavík is a worthwhile sightseeing destination in its own right. Its colorful, pedestrian-friendly downtown has fine museums, a stroll-worthy harbor, and a dozen thermal swimming pools, perfect for a rejuvenating soak among Icelanders. The capital’s restaurants are surprisingly good, and its nightlife scene is legendary.
While challenging to reach (by weather-dependent boat or flight), this little chain of 15 islands merits the effort. On Heimaey (the only inhabited island), you’ll find towering seabird cliffs and the world’s largest puffin colony (in summer), an aquarium with a resident puffin, a busy harbor, and two volcanoes (plus an excellent volcano museum).
To really delve into Iceland, circle the island’s perimeter on highway 1. It’s a demanding drive (the entire circuit is 800 miles), but the scenic payoff is huge: breathtaking waterfalls and fjords, majestic mountains, volcanic cones and craters, otherworldly lava formations, rich birdlife, geothermal springs and geysers, glaciers, black sand beaches, and windswept coastlines. Let the Ring Road tempt you into extending your visit, off the beaten path.
harbor in the Westman Islands
enjoy the cuisine scene
lunar landscape near Mývatn, on the Ring Road
West Iceland’s subtle charms include the dramatically set town of Borgarnes (with a fine exhibition on the Icelandic sagas), the hikable Grábrók volcanic crater, lovely waterfalls, the country’s most prolific hot springs, a traditional goat farm, an important religious site, and the chance to walk through an underground lava tube.
Mini icebergs at Jökulsárlón and a boat ride in Fjallsárlón-glacier lagoons on the southeast coast
exploring a lava tube in West Iceland
To plan your trip, you’ll need to design your itinerary—choosing where and when to go, how you’ll travel, and how many days to spend at each destination. For my best advice on sightseeing, accommodations, restaurants, and transportation, see the Practicalities chapter.
As you read this book and learn your options...
My recommended itineraries in this chapter give you an idea of how to spend your time in Iceland—whether you’ve got one day or ten. Most visitors focus on the great outdoors: volcanic landscapes, waterfalls, thermal springs, and so on. Reykjavík is the natural home base, and on a very short visit, you can simply overnight there, spending your days side-tripping to attractions near the city (see the Near Reykjavík chapter for advice). Decide early on which special activities you may want to reserve beforehand—such as glacier hikes, volcano tours, or the Blue Lagoon.
Your Icelandic experience will vary drastically depending on the time of year in which you visit.
From June through August, summer days in Iceland are long and the weather is at its best. At these northern latitudes, from about June 1 to July 15, the sun only technically sets (staying just below the horizon for only a few hours), but it never really gets dark. Icelanders take full advantage of these days of “midnight sun,” and so should you. July and early August usually bring a few T-shirt days, with temperatures climbing into the 60s and even breaking 70. At this time of year, Iceland can be crowded and more expensive...but it’s worth it.
Iceland rewards a visit of any length. I’ve outlined two basic itineraries here: a whirlwind 24-hour visit and a more relaxed five-day stay (both can be modified for longer visits). For my suggested Ring Road itineraries, see the next page and the Ring Road chapter. For any itinerary, consider these factors:
Time of Year: My itineraries assume you’ll visit in summer, when daylight is virtually endless and roads are clear. In the off-season, you’ll want to stay closer to the capital.
Blue Lagoon Scheduling: The Blue Lagoon is located between Reykjavík and Keflavík Airport, so it’s easy to combine a soak with your flight. These plans assume you’ll arrive in the morning and stop at the Blue Lagoon on your way into town. But it works equally well to visit the Blue Lagoon on your departure day (if you have a late flight). Whenever you go, reserve the Blue Lagoon in advance.
Westman Islands Weather: Connections by air and sea to the Westman Islands are weather-dependent, so have a Plan B ready. If you’re home-basing on the South Coast and your island trip is cancelled, do the Golden Circle as a side-trip, or spend more time in Reykjavík. Don’t schedule a return from the islands the day before an onward flight from Iceland; give yourself at least a two-night buffer.
Without a Car? Base in Reykjavík and book day-trip excursions to the Golden Circle, South Coast, Blue Lagoon, Westman Islands (by plane from Reykjavík), or Þórsmörk. It’s also possible to fly from Reykjavík to Akureyri, a hub for tours in the north (Mývatn, Siglufjörður, whale watching).
If one day is all you have in Iceland, here’s how to pack it all in.
| Morning: | Arrive, pick up car, head straight to Blue Lagoon and soak. |
| Midday: | Drive into Reykjavík for lunch and a few hours of browsing, then check into your hotel. |
| Afternoon: | Set out for Golden Circle loop trip—hitting just the highlights. |
| Evening: | Dinner in Golden Circle country. |
| Late: | Collapse at your hotel and sleep for a few hours. Fly out the next morning. |
With 48 hours: Add a day trip to the South Coast.
With 72 hours: Spend more time exploring Reykjavík.
| Day | Plan | Sleep in |
| 1 | Arrive, pick up car, go to Blue Lagoon, then head to South Coast | South Coast |
| 2 | Westman Islands day trip | South Coast |
| 3 | South Coast sights, to Reykjavík | Reykjavík |
| 4 | Golden Circle | Reykjavík |
| 5 | Reykjavík (or excursions: whale watching, horseback riding, glacier hikes) | Reykjavík |
| 6 | Fly out |
With 4 days: Spend less time in Reykjavík—see it in the two evenings, and on your morning of departure.
With 6 days: See the South Coast on Day 2, then overnight on the Westman Islands (Day 3) before heading to Reykjavík.
7 days: Add another day in Reykjavík (and/or more excursions).
8 days: Day-trip from Reykjavík to West Iceland. With more time, see my 10-day itinerary on the next page.
With enough time, it’s possible to see Reykjavík, drive the entire Ring Road route, including the South Coast, side-trip to the Westman Islands, and hit the Golden Circle highlights. The 10-day itinerary outlined here assumes you’ve rented a car (or campervan) and sets a fast pace, with several long driving days (and one-night stands) in a row. The more time you can devote to the Ring, the more relaxed and rewarding your circuit will be.
| Day | Plan | Sleep in |
| 1 | Arrive, pick up car, go to Blue Lagoon on the way into Reykjavík | Reykjavík |
| 2 | Reykjavík | Reykjavík |
| 3 | Begin Ring Road: To Borgarnes, then Skagafjörður | Skagafjörður area |
| 4 | Drive the Tröllaskagi Peninsula (stopping in Siglufjörður and Akureyri), evening to Mývatn lake area | Mývatn |
| 5 | Mývatn area and Húsavík port town | Mývatn |
| 6 | To the Eastfjords (and Dettifoss falls) | Seyðisfjörður |
| 7 | Drive the Eastfjords to the southeast (Vatnajökull area) | Höfn, Jökulsárlón, or Skaftafell area |
| 8 | South Coast sights | South Coast |
| 9 | Westman Islands day trip | South Coast |
| 10 | Golden Circle highlights en route to Reykjavík | Reykjavík |
| 11 | Drop car and fly out |
With 9 days: Spend only one night in Mývatn (and skip Húsavík).
With 11 days: Add a day in Reykjavík, or overnight in Akureyri.
12 days: Add another day in Reykjavík, and sleep in Akureyri.
13-14 days: Add your choice of excursions (Þórsmörk or Skaftafell hikes, glacier visits, volcano cave tour, whale watching)—and an overnight location to match (either in Reykjavík or on the Ring).
May and September can be a decent compromise in terms of crowds and weather. May is chilly but bright, with the solstice nearing. September brings subtle fall colors to the fields and hillsides, and as evenings darken, the first glimpses of the northern lights. Keep in mind that as late as April or as early as October, snow and extreme weather can disrupt your plans, particularly on higher-elevation roads.
Winter days (mid-October to mid-April) are short—the sun rises after 11:00 all December—and dusk will draw the shades on your sightseeing well before dinner. You can still enjoy a stopover in Reykjavík, though. Christmastime activities (with downtown decorated for shoppers, and bonfires and fireworks on New Year’s Eve) offer a warm experience at a frosty time of year. In these months, bus trips to the nearby Golden Circle and South Coast are typically still possible (and leave winter driving to the pros). Driving the Ring Road in winter is inadvisable at best, and impossible at worst.
One benefit of a winter visit is the chance to view the elusive northern lights, though whether you’ll actually see them is unpredictable. Weather, location, and luck all play a part (for more on the northern lights, see here).
Many people drop into Iceland on the way to or from Europe; both Icelandair and the low-cost Wow Air typically allow a layover of up to several days for only a small charge.
Decide if you’ll be traveling by car or relying on excursions, or a combination. A car or campervan rental is expensive, but offers maximum flexibility for side-tripping and exploring the countryside (for more on car and campervan rentals, see the Practicalities chapter). Excursion trips make the island accessible to nondrivers, but are pricey, too—skipping the car rental doesn’t necessarily save a lot of money.
To determine approximate driving times between destinations, study the driving chart in the Practicalities chapter. Major roads are fairly good, but back roads often have unpaved stretches. Be sure to tune into the peculiarities of Icelandic driving, including how to traverse city roundabouts and one-lane bridges (for Icelandic driving tips, see here). Google Maps can help you navigate throughout most of Iceland, but even it has blind spots—be ready to supplement with printed maps if you’ll be leaving well-traveled areas.
Figure out how many destinations you can comfortably fit in your time frame. If you’re energetic, you can take advantage of long summer days to cram in the maximum.
When planning your trip, give yourself enough time, and don’t spend it all in Reykjavík. On a short visit, make Reykjavík your base, then devote your days to the nearby Golden Circle or the South Coast. In summer you’ll still have hours of evening sunlight by which to enjoy Reykjavík even after side-tripping (for more on day trips, see the Near Reykjavík chapter).
Decide whether you’ll do everything as side trips from Reykjavík or divide your trip into multiple overnights (sleeping on the South Coast mixes in a little variety, and overlaps conveniently with the Golden Circle and Westman Islands). The Ring Road is a long, one-way trip...plan on lots of one-night stays. (To break it up, consider lingering in Mývatn in the north, or in the southeast.)
Check if any holidays or festivals fall during your trip—these attract crowds and can close sights (for the latest, visit www.visiticeland.com). If traveling off-season (Sept-May), be aware of potential weather-related road closures. Many sights and services in the countryside may be closed, and those in Reykjavík have reduced hours.
Give yourself some slack. Every trip—and every traveler—needs downtime for doing laundry, picnic shopping, people-watching, and so on. Pace yourself.
Horns or not-you’ll want a warm hat; Icelanders are easygoing and creative.
Join an excursion for special activities like a glacier walk
Budget accommodations can help your bottom line
Take advantage of short-hop flights to the Westman Islands or Akureyri.
Run a reality check on your dream trip. You’ll have major transportation costs in addition to daily expenses.
Flight: A round-trip flight from the US to Iceland’s Keflavík Airport costs about $500-2,000, depending on where you fly from and when.
Local Transportation: For a six-day trip using excursion buses and one intra-Iceland flight, allow $800 per person.
Car Rental: Allow roughly $350 per week (more for four-wheel drive), not including tolls, gas, parking, and insurance.
Iceland is one of Europe’s most expensive destinations. Here are some strategies for keeping costs down.
Consider Airbnb. Airbnb and similar sites rent properties that are typically far cheaper than hotels. And if you’re willing to forego hotel services (like a reception desk and daily cleaning), you’ll get more space and amenities for your money. Airbnb can also get you into more local neighborhoods; sleeping in a Reykjavík suburban home is both cheaper and more Icelandic than a touristy downtown hotel.
“Go” down the hall. Iceland’s characteristic guesthouses typically offer basic rooms with a shared bathroom, which cost much less than rooms with en-suite bathrooms.
Have a big lunch and a small dinner. Even the fanciest restaurants offer excellent-value lunch specials in the $25 range. Enjoy a high-end, sit-down meal for lunch, then picnic or grab cheap takeout for dinner.
Picnic. Cultivate the art of picnicking in atmospheric settings. Seek out Iceland’s discount supermarket chains—Krónan and Bónus—and use them to stock up. Consider bringing a few staples from home: In a place where a basic takeaway coffee costs $5 a cup, packing some single-serving instant coffee lets you caffeinate cheaply.
Know what’s included. Icelandic restaurants happily provide diners with a free carafe of tap water—just ask. Don’t feel obligated to purchase a drink. If you’ve paid for unlimited soup and bread, don’t be shy about going back for seconds. And if someone offers you free coffee, take it! Since Iceland has no tipping culture and taxes are included, you’ll pay exactly the price you see on the menu.
Economize on alcohol. Alcohol is priced at a premium, particularly in bars and restaurants. Stock up at the airport duty-free store on arrival—with the lowest prices in Iceland—or at government-run liquor stores (called Vínbúðin). If you’re going to a bar, go during happy hour.
Skip the Blue Lagoon. While famous and a highlight for many visitors, the Blue Lagoon costs ten times as much as Iceland’s many thermal swimming pools...which are also a more authentic experience. Reykjavík alone has more than a dozen municipal pools with water just as hot as the Blue Lagoon’s. If visiting several pools, invest in a shareable multi-visit card.
Sightsee selectively. Icelandic museums are typically very good...but expensive ($15-20). If you’ll be sightseeing a lot in the capital, consider a Reykjavík City Card. Fortunately, many of Iceland’s best attractions—its natural wonders—are free.
Splurge where it counts. When you do splurge, choose an experience you’ll always remember: If you’re a naturalist, invest in a whale-watching tour; if you like to eat, take a culinary walk or dine out at one top-end restaurant; if you’re an adventurer, spelunk through a lava cave or hike across a glacier. Minimize souvenir shopping—most shops sell things that are extremely expensive, produced outside Iceland, or both. (Plus, how will you get it all home?) Focus instead on collecting wonderful memories.
You’ll have a smoother trip if you tackle a few things ahead of time. For more information on these topics, see the Practicalities chapter (and www.ricksteves.com, which has helpful travel talks).
Make sure your passport is valid. If it’s due to expire within six months of your ticketed date of return, you need to renew it. Allow up to six weeks to renew or get a passport (www.travel.state.gov).
Arrange your transportation. Book your international flights. If you’re planning on renting a car or campervan, do it in advance, and read up on the unique hazards of driving in Iceland.
Book rooms well in advance, especially if your trip falls during peak season (June-Aug, and to a lesser degree May and Sept) or any major holidays or festivals. It’s essential to book ahead on the Ring Road at Mývatn and in the southeast.
Book ahead for the Blue Lagoon, which requires reservations (best made at least several days in advance). With the exception of specialized experiences like ice caving or glacier hiking, other excursions can usually be booked a day or two beforehand.
Consider travel insurance. Compare the cost of the insurance to the cost of your potential loss. Check whether your existing insurance (health, homeowners, or renters) covers you and your possessions overseas.
Call your bank. Alert your bank that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe. Ask about transaction fees, and get the PIN number for your credit card. You don’t need to bring króna for your trip.
Use your smartphone smartly. Sign up for an international service plan to reduce your costs, or rely on Wi-Fi in Iceland instead. Download any apps (or bookmark websites) you’ll want to access on the road, such as maps, translations, road conditions, and weather forecasts.
Pack light. I travel for weeks with a single carry-on bag and a daypack. Use the packing checklist in the Appendix so you’re sure to include a few important extras for Iceland (such as a small towel for thermal pools; sunglasses for driving with the sun low in the sky; and, in summer, an eye mask to help you sleep when it stays light out). Pack an insect head net if you plan to visit Mývatn (known for its beauty—and its midges). In winter, consider strap-on ice cleats if you plan to do much outdoor walking.
Þingvellir on the Golden Circle
town church in Húsavík
Reykjavík’s Harpa concert hall
Iceland is famously spectacular, and it’s hard to have a bad time here. But it’s easy to underestimate the changeable weather, blow through too much money, or waste time by not making a good plan. If you equip yourself with good information (this book) and expect to travel smart, you will.
Read—and reread—this book. To have an “A” trip, be an “A” student. Note opening hours of sights, closed days, crowd-beating tips, and whether reservations are required or advisable. Check the latest at www.ricksteves.com/update.
Be your own tour guide. As you travel, get up-to-date info on sights, reserve tickets and tours, reconfirm hotels and travel arrangements, and check weather forecasts. Upon arrival in a new town, lay the groundwork for a smooth departure; confirm the road conditions and route to your next destination.
Outsmart thieves. While theft is rare in Iceland, some pickpockets are arriving with the tourist crowds. Keep your backup credit cards, passport, and big bills secure in a money belt tucked under your clothes; carry one credit card and a little cash in a wallet in your front pocket. Don’t set valuable items down on counters or café tabletops, where they can be quickly stolen or easily forgotten.
Minimize potential loss. Keep expensive gear to a minimum. Bring photocopies or take photos of important documents (passport and cards) to aid in replacement if they’re lost or stolen.
Be budget-conscious. Fully experiencing Iceland is worth paying a lot for...but it’s not necessary to break the bank. Smart, organized travelers can avoid overpaying. For suggestions, read and heed my “Budget Tips,” earlier.
Be flexible. Even with a well-planned itinerary, expect changes, closures, howling winds, sore feet, and so on. Your Plan B could turn out to be even better.
Attempt the language. Most Icelanders—especially in the tourist trade—speak English. But if you learn even just a few Icelandic phrases, you’ll get more smiles and make more friends (see the Survival Phrases near the end of this book).
Connect with the culture. Interacting with locals carbonates your experience. Enjoy the friendliness of the Icelandic people. Ask questions; most locals are happy to point you in their idea of the right direction. Set up your own quest for the best fish-of-the-day, volcanic crater, thermal swimming pool, or mountain pass. When an opportunity pops up, make it a habit to say “yes.”
Iceland...here you come!
