ORIENTATION TO THE BLUE LAGOON
Reykjanes Peninsula Driving Tour
FROM REYKJAVÍK TO THE BLUE LAGOON
FROM THE BLUE LAGOON TO KEFLAVÍK AND BACK TO REYKJAVÍK
The Blue Lagoon—arguably Iceland’s most famous attraction—is tucked into a jagged volcanic landscape in the middle of nowhere, about a 45-minute drive south of downtown Reykjavík and not far from the international airport. People flock here from around the globe to soak, splash, and bob in the lagoon’s thermal and, yes, milky-blue waters. While many visitors consider the Blue Lagoon a must, others disagree—it’s pricey, time-consuming, and not everyone’s cup of tea.
The Blue Lagoon and Keflavík Airport both sit on the Reykjanes (RAKE-ya-NESS) Peninsula, which extends into the sea south of Reykjavík. A few low-impact sights are scattered around the volcanic terrain beyond the Blue Lagoon—including Kleifarvatn lake; the thermal fields at Seltún; Grindavík, a humdrum town with some good lunch options; and Keflavík, the peninsula’s main town. While the scenery is more impressive in other parts of the country, a quick drive around Reykjanes provides those on a tight time frame with an efficient glimpse of the Icelandic landscape.
Be aware that the Blue Lagoon requires reservations—you can’t just show up and hope to slip in. To have your choice of slots, book several days ahead.
Blue Lagoon Strategic Strike: Given the Blue Lagoon’s proximity to the international airport, a smart, time-saving strategy is to schedule your visit to coincide with your flight: If arriving on a morning flight, hit the Blue Lagoon on your way into Reykjavík. Or if you’re flying out in the afternoon, soak in the Blue Lagoon on your way to the airport. If you have a layover of several hours, it may not be worth the trouble to go all the way into Reykjavík—but a visit to the Blue Lagoon (or sights in the town of Keflavík) makes a far better alternative to hanging out at the airport.
Combining the Blue Lagoon with the Reykjanes Peninsula: If you’re staying longer in Reykjavík and want to make a day of it, book your Blue Lagoon reservation for 13:00 and follow this plan.
| 10:00 | Leave Reykjavík for Kleifarvatn lake (45 minutes) |
| 11:00 | Visit Kleifarvatn and Seltún geothermal field |
| 11:30 | Drive to Grindavík (30 minutes) and have lunch |
| 12:45 | Drive to the Blue Lagoon (10 minutes) |
| 13:00 | Soak in the Blue Lagoon—aaah |
| 16:00 | Return to Reykjavík—or, before heading home, take in one of the museums in the town of Keflavík |
While Iceland has a wide variety of thermal baths, the Blue Lagoon’s setting amongst rocky lava makes it unique. Bathing at the Blue Lagoon is, for many travelers, the ultimate Icelandic experience, and worth ▲▲▲.
If you’re excited to visit the Blue Lagoon (Bláa Lónið), you’re not alone: The sight’s popularity and don’t-miss-it reputation have driven prices way up. The lagoon has expanded, but at a pace that can’t keep up with tourist demand (over 3,000 people visit each day). Reservations are required, and some slots sell out days in advance. (The bottleneck isn’t the lagoon itself, but the number of lockers.) While the reservation requirement is a hassle, it keeps the lagoon from getting too congested—even on the busiest days, you can find pockets of hot water where you can escape the tour groups. Once inside, you can stay as long as you want.
The Blue Lagoon is a delight. Nestled in a lunar-like landscape, this steamy oasis is a sprawling hot-water playground for grown-ups. Chunky rocks disappear beneath the opaque water, where they’re coated with white silica slime. The naturally heated water is thoroughly relaxing. You’ll smear mineral deposits on your face, while giggling at your fellow silica-masked bathers. The hardest “work” you’ll have to do is keeping your Icelandic microbrew or skyr smoothie above the water, as you behold the surrounding rocks hissing like teakettles. Before leaving the lagoon, some travelers are already planning their next layover in Iceland...giving them juuust enough time for a future soak.
With a Car: If you’re renting a car—and traveling with others who can split the cost—you’ll save by driving to the lagoon over going by bus. It’s about 45 minutes from downtown Reykjavík, and only 15 minutes from Keflavík Airport, off highway 43, on the way to the town of Grindavík. Some signs use only the Icelandic name: Bláa Lónið. The lagoon’s huge parking lot is free.
By Excursion Bus: Both Reykjavík Excursions and Gray Line sell packages that include standard admission and round-trip travel between Reykjavík and the lagoon for about 11,700 ISK. You’re allowed to use your return ticket to continue to Keflavík Airport instead of going back to Reykjavík (luggage storage is available at the Blue Lagoon—see here). Buses run hourly between Reykjavík and the Blue Lagoon but less frequently between the lagoon and airport—check schedules carefully and plan ahead (Reykjavík Excursions tel. 580-5400, www.re.is; Gray Line tel. 540-1313, www.grayline.is). Note that these companies have access to the same time slots for the Blue Lagoon as individuals—if the lagoon is sold out in one place, it’ll be sold out everywhere.
Cost: Prices vary with demand. Most visitors opt for the standard package (typically 7,500 ISK, but can be as low as 5,400 ISK in off-peak hours). If you choose this package, you’ll need to bring your own towel or rent one for 700 ISK. For an extra 2,000 ISK, the comfort package bundles towel rental, a dollop of green algae mud for your face (otherwise 450 ISK), and a free drink from the bar in the lagoon (otherwise 500-1,200 ISK). For another 2,000 ISK, the premium package adds bathrobe and slipper rental.
Hours: Daily 8:00-22:00, June-Aug until 23:00 or 24:00, Oct-Dec until 20:00, last entry one hour before closing. You need to leave the water at closing time, but have another 30 minutes after that to dress.
Information: Tel. 420-8800, www.bluelagoon.com.
The Blue Lagoon dates only from the early 1970s, when the local power authority drilled for hot water to heat homes on the Reykjanes Peninsula. They hit a good high-temperature source, but as often happens, the water wasn’t suitable for piping directly into home radiators—it was salty (due to seawater intrusions) and had a high mineral and clay content. Instead, they set up a heat-exchange system where the geothermal water was used to heat fresh, cold water that could then be piped to homes. After running through the system, the partly cooled geothermal water was simply dumped into the lava field near the plant.
Within a few years, locals realized this was a great place for a free dip and started to bathe in the water. Silica clay gives the water its milky texture, and sunlight gives it a blue appearance. (The name “Blue Lagoon”—borrowed from the notorious 1980 Brooke Shields movie—was originally used in jest.) Authorities caught on, fenced off the lagoon, built a changing shed, and started to charge admission, which at first was no more than at a local swimming pool. Word spread, and within a few years the lagoon had become a major tourist attraction. The power authority privatized the lagoon, controversially selling it to a group of local politicians. They raised capital and did an admirable job developing and marketing the lagoon, adding cosmetics lines, a gift shop, a hotel, and a fancy restaurant.
Today, almost all the Blue Lagoon’s guests are tourists; only a small percentage are Icelanders, who find the facility too expensive and distant and don’t like what it does to their hair. Meanwhile, three similar premium pools in Iceland have sprung up: Fontana (at Laugarvatn, on the Golden Circle route); Mývatn Nature Baths (partway around the Ring Road, in North Iceland); and Krauma (at Deildartunguhver, in West Iceland—see here). These somewhat cheaper, less upscale alternatives are farther afield and lack the lava setting (though Mývatn comes close); most travelers stick with the original.
Reservations: Book as far in advance as you can to get the widest selection of times. You have to commit to an entry time when you book, but once you’re in the lagoon, you can stay until closing time. Evening entries are cheaper and less likely to be sold out. Tickets are only partially refundable, and changing a reservation costs 1,400 ISK. If you’re running ahead of schedule for your reservation, you can try to enter earlier—if it’s not too crowded, they may let you in (no promises).
Arrival and Luggage Storage: The lagoon’s parking lot is connected to the main building by a 100-yard-long path cut through the lava field. A small building near the parking lot has a WC, pay luggage storage, and a waiting room for those taking buses from the lagoon.
Eyewear and Jewelry: Avoid wearing valuable eyeglasses in the water; if you must, secure them with a strap (if they fall off, you won’t be able to find them in the opaque water). Be careful not to rub delicate lenses while they’re in the Blue Lagoon water, as the clay can scratch them—instead, wait to rinse them in freshwater when you get out. (On a bright day, a pair of cheap sunglasses makes the lagoon more pleasant.) Because the water is opaque, there’s no need for goggles. Leave jewelry in your locker to avoid tarnishing.
Hair Concerns: As with ocean water, the minerals in the Blue Lagoon leave your hair dry and brittle. The effect goes away within a day or two. Don’t stress about this too much—the lagoon is more fun if you relax and let your hair get wet. Still, especially for those with long hair, it’s smart to slather on the free conditioner (from dispensers in the shower stalls) before and after you bathe, or keep long hair tied up and out of the water. A bathing cap offers the best protection. In addition to conditioner, the lagoon provides free body wash and the use of hair dryers.
Kids: Children under age two are not allowed in the Blue Lagoon, and the facility is not really designed for kids (no slides, kiddie pools, or play areas). The water is opaque, so if a child goes under, you won’t be able to see him or her. The same goes for toys, glasses, goggles...and anything else that might slip out of little hands.
Eating: The main building has an overpriced $ self-service cafeteria (with prepackaged sandwiches), plus the expensive, sit-down $$$$ Lava Restaurant (reservations recommended, same contact info as lagoon). You can get much more value by eating in Grindavík, a 10-minute drive away (described later in this chapter).
Sleeping: The lagoon runs the nearby $$$$ Silica Hotel, but it’s very expensive. If you want to stay close, you’ll find lower prices in towns like Keflavík and Grindavík (see “Hotels near the Airport” in the Reykjavík chapter).
Expect Changes: The Blue Lagoon is undergoing an ambitious expansion project. While the lagoon itself and the changing areas will remain essentially the same, they’re adding a new wing with in-water spa treatments and a 60-room luxury hotel.
Looking without Bathing: If you’re in the area and just want a peek at the dreamy setting, you can park, enter the main building, and visit the gift shop, cafeteria, and restaurant without a ticket. There’s a good view of the bathing area from the cafeteria. A path from the parking lot leads through the non-bathing section of the lagoon. Also, as you drive toward the complex, there’s a point where the water from the power plant comes up through the lava and right up to the road; you could get out for a photo, if you can pull off without blocking traffic.
The procedures for a visit to the Blue Lagoon are basically the same as at other Icelandic pools (see “Pool Rules” sidebar on here). Watch the helpful video on the website (www.bluelagoon.com), which walks you through the process.
As you enter, you’ll get an electronic wristband that serves as your locker key (and lets you charge drinks, face mud, and other extras—pay when you leave). Once in the changing area, follow green lights to available lockers. Attendants are also there to direct you. Once you’ve changed and showered (in a private cabin, if you prefer), head out to the lagoon.
The lagoon is big. The water ranges from waist to chest deep. The temperature varies more than in a regular swimming pool, with hot and cool spots—the average is around 100°F. While the water is not chlorinated, new water continually circulates into the lagoon—refilling the entire pool about every 40 hours. Bathers congregate by the warm spots where the hot water enters. Splish and splash around, exploring the nooks and crannies of the interconnected pools. There are many hidden areas to explore, including a little roofed grotto, and a few areas with benches that resemble hot pots at the municipal baths. Find the scalding, thundering waterfalls, and dare yourself to linger beneath them. There’s also a sauna and a steam room.
The bar is in the far-right corner of the lagoon. Be sure to stay hydrated; look for water fountains under the bridges.
At the mud station (to the left), there are three options: Every bather is entitled to a free ladleful of the white silica mud that collects in the lagoon. Smear this exfoliant on your face, let it set for about 10 minutes, then wash it off. Bathers who bought a “comfort” or “premium” ticket also get a blob of greenish algae, which supposedly reduces wrinkles and rejuvenates the skin (same procedure: wear for 10 minutes, then rinse). You may also see roving attendants handing out a black “lava scrub” face wash. (Keep all of these out of your eyes.) While it adds to the experience, all that mud is really just a sales pitch for the extremely expensive spa products for sale inside.
After you’ve showered and dressed, pay for any extras you indulged in. At the exit turnstile, touch your wristband to the panel, then insert it in the slot. Now comes the hard part: Try to keep your relaxed body awake for the drive back to your hotel or the airport.
The Reykjanes Peninsula has enough sights to fill a day trip, and it’s easy to combine with a visit to the Blue Lagoon. It’s not the most scenic or historic part of Iceland—don’t visit this area at the expense of more dramatic scenery only a bit farther away, such as the Golden Circle or South Coast. But Reykjanes is handy for those who don’t have time to venture far beyond the airport area.
My self-guided driving plan assumes you’ll tour the peninsula first and visit the Blue Lagoon later, but it works just fine in reverse, too. The major excursion bus companies all offer guided tours of the peninsula for about 12,500 ISK.
This loop route is fairly straightforward. First, you’ll drive about 45 minutes to the rugged Kleifarvatn lakeshore, with some interesting natural features (especially the Seltún geothermal field). Then you’ll loop along the peninsula’s south coast to Grindavík (about 30 minutes), a harbor town with some appealing lunch options. From there, it’s a 10-minute drive to the Blue Lagoon. When you’re done bathing, you can head straight back to Reykjavík (45 minutes), or consider a quick detour to some of the museums in Keflavík. (To see my suggested timing for this route, see here.)
• Leaving the city, drive south on highway 41 through Hafnarfjörður—a suburb of Reykjavík that feels like its own small town—following the route toward the airport.
As you crest the hill at the end of Hafnarfjörður, look ahead to see the red-and-white towers of the aluminum plant at Straumsvík. This was Iceland’s first metal smelter, opened in 1969. Before you reach the smelter, follow the signs for Krýsuvík and turn left on highway 42. Continue as it makes several turns through an industrial area.
The forbidding-looking mountains ahead of you enclose your destination, the lake called Kleifarvatn. A low pass winds through the mountains to the lake; for these few miles, the road isn’t paved—drive slowly as you dodge potholes.
Kleifarvatn (CLAY-vahr-VAHT) lake offers a nice sample of Iceland’s distinctive volcanic scenery. In good weather, you can walk along the black sand beach and even dip your toes in the water. There’s something peculiar about Kleifarvatn: It has no outlet (it’s fed by underground springs, and the water level varies). The area around the lake is totally undeveloped, and is a good (if lonely) place to look for the northern lights on clear, dark nights. There’s a small parking lot near the end of the first long stretch of sandy beach, as well as parking lots at the overlooks from the headlands a little farther on. Don’t drive off-road here.
• A little past the end of the lake, take the turnoff to the right and park to explore the...
This steaming, bubbling, boiling (and very smelly) landscape hints at the geothermal power just underfoot. A boardwalk and marked paths take you on a 15-minute circuit through the field. Stay on the path, as the water and steam here are boiling hot. Partway through the loop, you can climb steeply up to a hilltop viewpoint overlooking the entire area, with Kleifarvatn lake just beyond—but the up-close boardwalk stroll through the steam zone is plenty satisfying. The environment here is not just natural, but also the product of botched attempts to exploit the geothermal field for energy—first in the 1750s, and most recently in the 1940s. In 1999, one of the boreholes from the last attempt got plugged up and exploded violently, creating a 30-foot crater now filled with water (at the first overlook). There are picnic benches here, and a WC (in summer).
• Just after leaving Seltún, watch on the left for the Grænavatn parking lot. Grænavatn (“Green Lake”) is a small lake that was formed inside a volcanic crater. It’s worth a quick stop for a look at its green water (the color comes from algae at the bottom) and surrounding jagged hilltops.
Continue south on highway 42 until it tees at highway 427, where you’ll turn right. About 10 minutes from Seltún, you’ll see a dirt road branch off to the left, signposted Krýsuvíkurbjarg. This road (too rough for two-wheel-drive cars) leads out to a high coastal cliff with a large seabird colony. Hikers not in a hurry could park along the shoulder of the dirt road and walk out (about 2.5 miles each way).
Highway 427 continues through attractive, moss-covered lava fields and then traverses a dark, inhospitable upland before arriving in the town of Grindavík.
Grindavík (pop. 2,000) is important for its harbor, which was improved in the 20th century and is one of the few usable ones on Iceland’s southern coast. Follow Höfnin signposts to reach the harbor, where you’ll see fishing boats moored and large fish-processing factories. If you like, spend a few more minutes driving around this spread-out town; keep an eye out for the old church, the new church, the police station, the primary school, and the municipal swimming pool.
Sights in Grindavík: The town museum, Kvikan (“Saltfish Museum”), backs up to the harbor. It has exhibitions on the town’s history (including life-size dioramas of the fishing industry), the history of salted cod (once the backbone of the local economy), Icelandic geology and geothermal energy, and novelist Guðbergur Bergsson (b. 1932), who was born here but has spent much of his life in Spain. The building also serves as the local TI, dispensing maps and brochures, and there’s a contemporary art exhibition space upstairs. While nicely presented and fairly interesting, the museum is worth visiting only if you have time to kill before your Blue Lagoon appointment (1,500 ISK; daily in summer, Oct-April Sat-Sun only, Hafnargata 12a, tel. 420-1190, www.grindavik.is/kvikan).
Eating in Grindavík: The unassuming $ Bryggjan café at the harbor specializes in lobster soup, served with bread and butter and coffee or tea; they also have sandwiches and cakes. It’s cozy, and decorated with fishing gear and memorabilia from both Grindavík and the Faroe Islands (the owner is half Faroese; daily 7:00-23:00, Miðgarður 2, tel. 426-7100). $ Hjá Höllu (“Halla’s Place”) is a popular local lunch joint with a small, inventive, ever-changing menu that includes vegetarian options—ask them to translate. It’s on the town’s main road, in the tiny mall next door to the Nettó supermarket, which also houses a liquor store, pharmacy, and hair salon—enter from inside the mall (Mon-Fri 8:00-17:00, Sat from 11:00, closed Sun, Víkurbraut 62, tel. 896-5316, www.hjahollu.is). For something more formal, try the $$ Salthúsið sit-down restaurant, a block behind Nettó, with a spacious, woody interior and a deck that’s inviting on a nice day (daily 12:00-22:00, off-season until 21:00, Stamphólsvegur 2, tel. 526-9700, www.salthusid.is).
The Blue Lagoon is a 10-minute drive north of Grindavík: Hopefully you’ve timed things so that you arrive promptly for your reservation.
• Road signs direct you to Bláa Lónið along highway 426, which winds through the lava around the west side of the mountain called Þorbjörn.
It’s also fine to take highway 43, going north past the Svartsengi geothermal plant, which feeds the lagoon. The plant is not open to the public, but you can make an unmarked turn off highway 43 and drive up as far as the visitor parking lot, getting a view of the red-painted water pipes that deliver hot water to area communities, and the turbine halls that generate electricity. (To actually visit a geothermal power plant, plan a trip to Hellisheiðarvirkjun, between Reykjavík and Selfoss; see here.)
Even if you’re not getting wet at the Blue Lagoon, you can park for free at the complex and have a look around.
From the Blue Lagoon, most travelers get on the road to Reykjavík. If you’re tempted to drive around the desolate southwestern tip of the Reykjanes Peninsula, note that the route is less interesting than it looks on the map. Both the Reykjanesviti lighthouse, and the nearby path up to the headland, are closed to visitors; the Gunnuhver geothermal area is impressive but Seltún is better; and the bridge over a tectonic fissure, which claims to let you “walk between continents,” is gimmicky. I’d skip this circuit, but if you do travel it, follow the Reykjanesviti signs down paved road 425 to Gunnuhver (don’t take the Gunnuhver turnoff before that, which leads down a mucky dirt road).
• To return to Reykjavík from the Blue Lagoon, head out to highway 43 and head north. After about 10 minutes, highway 43 tees into highway 41, the main road between Keflavík and Reykjavík. Turn right to head straight back to Reykjavík (about 45 minutes from the Blue Lagoon).
To stop in Keflavík and Njarðvík (described below), follow highway 43 as described above, but instead of turning right on highway 41, turn left. You’ll soon see the towns of Keflavík and Njarðvík on your right (about a 15-minute drive from the Blue Lagoon).
The peninsula’s main settlement (pop. 15,000) isn’t a must-see, but has some attractions that can easily fill a few hours. Once separate towns, Keflavík and Njarðvík have grown together; in the 1990s they merged governments under the new name Reykjanesbær.
In 2006, the town expanded even more when the US military left its base near the airport and turned the area over to civilian use. That neighborhood is now called Ásbrú; if you’re curious, you can follow signs into it and drive around (turning off highway 41 at a roundabout). The streets still have English names and you can drive past the old military PX, the base’s theater, and the yellow-painted housing blocks.
Keflavík and Njarðvík have several museums that can be a good end to this driving tour. To reach them, turn off highway 41 and head into town, following signs for the museums. For a map of this area, see the end of the Reykjavík chapter.
Icelandic Museum of Rock ’n’ Roll: This chronicles the coming-of-age of Icelandic pop music, from the 1930s to the present. The museum fills a large space in the local music school and concert-hall complex. Exhibits cover the biggies (Björk, Sigur Rós, and Of Monsters and Men), as well as many Icelandic musicians who aren’t known internationally (Páll Óskar Hjálmtýsson and Björgvin Halldórsson). The free videoguide with headphones lets you watch and listen to the performers. There’s also a small theater that screens documentary films, and a drum set you can try out. The museum sells coffee and candy bars, but doesn’t have a real café (1,500 ISK, daily 11:00-18:00, Hjallavegur 2, Reykjanesbær, tel. 420-1030, www.rokksafn.is).
Viking World: This museum houses the Icelander, a replica of the medieval Scandinavian ship unearthed at Gokstad, Norway in the 1880s (the original is in Oslo). While the boat itself is worth seeing, the rest of the attraction—with a few artifacts, some conceptual exhibits, and a Viking dress-up area—lacks substance. The museum opens early and offers a breakfast buffet (museum—1,500 ISK, museum and breakfast—1,800 ISK, daily 7:00-18:00, breakfast until 11:00, Víkingabraut 1, tel. 422-2000, www.vikingworld.is). More interesting is the “Settlement Age Zoo” (Landnámsdýragarður) just across the parking lot—a cute (and free) petting farm, with animals living in miniature sod-roofed huts (early May-mid-Aug daily 10:00-17:00).
Duus Museum: At the northwestern end of Keflavík, this local history and art museum has a collection of more than 100 model boats made by a retired local sea captain (1,500 ISK, daily 12:00-17:00, Duusgata 2, tel. 420-3245, http://sofn.reykjanesbaer.is/duusmuseum).
• When you’re ready to head back, it’s a straight, 45-minute shot directly to Reykjavík along highway 41.