INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Y

A

Aasleagh Falls: 374

Abbeys and monasteries: Cong Abbey, 364–365; Ennis Friary, 301, 304; Glendalough, 139–142; Hore Abbey, 164; Jerpoint Abbey, 157–158; Kells Priory, 158–159; Monasterboice, 129–130, 508; Old Mellifont Abbey, 128–129; Reasc Monastery, 290–291; St. Mary’s Abbey (Howth), 118

Abbey Theatre (Dublin): 52, 79, 93, 510

Abortion: 505

Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Act of Union (1801): 85, 128, 243, 366, 495

Aer Arann Islands: 358–359

Aer Lingus: 110, 575

Afternoon tea, in Dublin: 108

Aillwee Caves: 318

Aircoach (Dublin): 108–109, 111

Airfares (airlines): 23, 574–575; discount, 110, 575

Airlink (Dublin): 43, 44, 108

Airports: 575; Aran Islands, 358–359; Belfast, 477; Cork, 206; Dublin, 108–109; Kerry, 254, 296; Shannon, 300, 307; VAT refunds, 529

Almanac: Northern Ireland, 397; Republic of Ireland, 33

Ancestors, tracing: See Genealogical research

Ancient stone circles: about, 488–489. See also Archaeological sites

An Daingean Peninsula: See Dingle Peninsula

An Daingean Town: See Dingle Town

An Earagail: 390

Anglo-Irish Treaty (1921): 67

Annascaul: 269, 270

An Plassy (shipwreck): 355

Antrim, County: 17, 427–445

Antrim Coast: 427–428, 435–445; map, 438–439; planning tips, 427–428; transportation, 428. See also Portrush

Antrim Mountains and Glens: 444

Apartment rentals: overview, 544–545

Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall (Derry): 409–410

Apps: 26; messaging, 555; navigation tools, 530, 569

Aquariums: Dingle, 256, 266; Salthill, 333

Aran Artisan Garden (Inishmore): 349

Aran Islands: 12, 340–359; ferries, 311–312, 313, 356–358; map, 341. See also Inisheer Island; Inishmore Island

Archaeological sites: overview, 488–489, 505–508; Caherconnell Ring Fort, 317; Cahergal Ring Fort, 238, 246; Drombeg Stone Circle, 200, 489; Dun Aengus (Inishmore), 342, 347–348; Dunbeg Fort, 287; Gallarus Oratory, 291; Grianan Aileach Ring Fort, 387; Hill of Tara, 61–62, 127–128; Inishmore, 349–350; Kenmare Stone Circle, 222–223, 489; Knowth, 125; Leacanabuaile Ring Fort, 238, 246; Newgrange, 124–125; Poulnabrone Dolmen, 317–318; Puicin Wedge Tomb, 269–270; Rock of Cashel, 149–166; Staigue Fort, 234, 240

Ardagh Chalice: 63, 507

Ardmore: 212–213

Arkin Fort (Inishmore): 350

Art: history timeline, 498–499; overview, 505–509. See also specific art museums and artists

Ashford Castle: 365

Atlantaquaria Aquarium (Salthill): 333

ATMs: 523–528. See also specific destinations

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 577

Avondale House: 142–143

B

Bacon (Francis) Studio (Dublin): 83

Bailey Lighthouse (Howth): 118

Ballinskelligs: 237, 247

Ballinspittle: 379

Ballycastle: ferries, 443–444

Ballyferriter: 290; golf, 269

Ballyhack: 182–183

Ballyvaughan: 314, 317

Ballyvourney: 216

Balscadden House (Howth): 118

B&Bs: See Bed-and-breakfasts

Bangor: 477–482; map, 479

Bangor Castle: 479

Bangor Coastal Path: 478

Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 25–26, 524–526. See also Money; and specific destinations

Banquet, at Dunguaire Castle: 319–320

Barronstrand Street (Waterford): 170, 171, 178

Barry, Kevin: 92

Barry’s Old Time Amusement Arcade (Portrush): 430

Battle of Clontarf: 487

Battle of Kinsale: 198, 200–201, 410, 492

Battle of the Boyne (1690): 120, 409, 419, 493; site of, 125–127

Beaches: Ardmore, 212; Bangor, 478; Carroll’s Cove, 236; Dun Laoghaire, 114; Inch Strand (Dingle), 239, 270; Inishmore, 348; Portrush, 429–430; St. Finian’s Bay, 238; Salthill, 333; Ventry, 286

Beaghmore Stone Circle: 489

Beal na Blath: 215–216

Beara Peninsula: 224–225; boating, 223; map, 225

Beatty (Chester) Library (Dublin): 48, 71–73

Beckett, Samuel: 79, 510

Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs): overview, 539, 540–543. See also specific destinations

Beehive huts (clochans): 248–249, 287–288, 290–291

Beer: 550–553; Guinness Storehouse (Dublin), 49, 87–89; Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny, 153. See also Pubs

Behan, Brendan: 79, 104, 510

Belfast: 17, 446–477; at a glance, 458; arrival in, 449, 452; eating, 474–476; entertainment, 471; excursion areas, 477–482; helpful hints, 452–453; layout of, 448–449; maps, 447, 450–451, 464, 473; planning tips, 447–448; shopping, 452; sights, 457–471; sleeping, 471–473; tourist information, 449; tours, 455–457; transportation, 449, 452, 454, 476–477

Belfast Agreement: 502, 503

Belfast Botanic Gardens: 458, 468

Belfast Cathedral: 467

Belfast City Hall: 458, 463

Belfast International Airport: 477

Belfast Story: 471

Belfast Titanic Society: 456

Belfast Visitor Pass: 452

Belleek Pottery Visitors Centre: 383–384

Beltany Stone Circle: 489

Belt Shrine: 63

Benner’s Hotel (Dingle): 260

Biking (bike rentals): Belfast, 453, 456; Dingle Peninsula, 255, 267–268, 284–293; Dublin, 42, 46; Galway, 327; Inishmore, 342, 344–345; Kenmare, 220; Kilkenny, 148, 149; Kinsale, 192; Portrush, 430; Westport, 368, 370

Bird-watching: 286; the Burren, 318; Cliffs of Moher, 308; Ireland School of Falconry (Cong), 365–366; Rathlin Island, 444; Skellig Michael, 247, 249

Birkenhead: ferries, 477

Bishop’s Gate (Derry): 412–413

Bishop’s Palace (Waterford): 177–178

Black Death: 75, 487

Black Fort (Inishmore): 350

Black Valley: 232

Blarney Stone and Castle: 214–215

Blarney Woolen Mills: 215

Blasket Island Ferry: 257–258, 293–294

Blasket Islands: 288–289; ferries, 257–258, 293–294; sleeping, 278; views of, 293–294

Blennerville Windmill (Tralee): 295–296

Blessing of the Boats (Dingle): 254, 581

Bloody Foreland: 391

Bloody Sunday (1972): 412, 413, 418, 420, 502; Monument (Derry), 417; overview, 415

Bloomsday (Dublin): 39, 580

Blue Coat School (Derry): 409

Boating: Bangor, 479; Dingle, 257; Kenmare, 223; Rathlin Island, 444

Boat travel and cruises: Aran Islands, 356–358; Belfast, 456–457; Blasket Islands, 257–258, 293–294; Cliffs of Moher, 311–312; Dingle, 257–258; Doolin, 311–312; Garnish Island, 224; Howth, 118; Kinsale, 193; map, 562–563; Skellig Michael, 247–248. See also Ferries

Bodhrán: 7, 267, 281

Bog Bodies (Dublin): 62–63

Bogs: 375–377

Bogside Inn (Derry): 420

Bogside Murals (Derry): 413–420; guided tours, 407; map, 414

Bollard’s Pub (Kilkenny): 153

Book of Kells (Dublin): 48, 56–58, 486, 507

Books, recommended: 581–583

Bookstores: See specific destinations

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre (Dublin): 93

Boyne Valley: 120–135, 506; map, 121; planning tips, 121; transportation, 121. See also Trim

Braveheart (movie): 130–133, 144

Brazen Head, the (Dublin): 94, 107

Brendan, Saint: 263, 304, 305, 332, 486

Brexit: 35, 402, 503

Brian Ború: 59–60, 115, 301, 487

Bridge End: 386

Bridge Street (Westport): 368–371

Bridget, Saint: 310

British pound: 525

Broighter Hoard: 63

Bru Boru Cultural Centre (Rock of Cashel): 166

Brú na Bóinne: 121–125; map, 121; planning tips, 122; tours, 121; Visitors Center and Museum, 123–124

Budgeting: 23. See also Money-saving tips

Bulman Bar (Kinsale): 198, 202, 205

Bunbeg: 386, 391

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park: 299

Burial mounds: See Archaeological sites

Burren, the: 16, 314–320; botany of, 319; maps, 299, 316; planning tips, 298–299; self-guided driving tour, 315–320; tours, 301, 314–315

Burren Birds of Prey Centre: 318

Burren Centre (Kilfenora): 315–316

Burren Way: 311

Busáras Central Bus Station (Dublin): 39, 108

Buses (bus travel): 561, 564; map, 562–563; Antrim Coast, 428; Belfast, 453, 476; Cliffs of Moher, 311; Dingle, 254, 282–283; Dublin, 39, 43–44, 109; tours, 46–47; Ennis, 307; Galway, 339; Irish National Stud, 143; Kenmare, 228; Kilkenny, 148, 156; Kinsale, 191, 206; Portrush, 435; Tralee, 296; Trim, 135; Waterford, 180–181; Westport, 372

Bushmills (town): 442

Bushmills Distillery: 440–442

Business hours: 522–523

Butler Arms Hotel (Waterville): 237

C

Cabs: See Taxis

Caherconnell Ring Fort: 317

Cahergal Ring Fort: 238, 246

Cahersiveen: 238, 239, 242, 246

Cairnryan: ferries, 477, 574

Calatrava, Santiago: 78

Car insurance: 567–569

Carnegie Arts Center (Kenmare): 220

Carol Cronin Gallery (Dingle): 262

Car rentals: 23, 564–567

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge: 442

Carrickfergus Castle: 458, 470

Carroll’s Cove: 236

Car travel (driving): 569–574; best three-week trip, 20–21; distances and time, 565; general driving tips, 570–571; navigation apps, 569; road signs, 572; roundabouts, 568, 572; Antrim Coast, 428; Belfast, 452; the Burren, 298–299, 307, 315–320; Cobh, 212; Connemara, 361, 372–378; County Clare, 298–299; Derry, 407; Dingle, 254, 282–293, 296–297; Dublin, 39, 109–110; Ennis, 300; Galway, 339; Healy Pass, 224–225; Irish National Stud, 143; Kilkenny, 148; Kinsale, 191; Ring of Kerry, 234, 235–239; Sally Gap, 138–139; Tralee, 296–297; Wicklow Mountains, 136

Cash: See Money

Cashel (town): 166–168; eating, 167–168; sleeping, 167

Cashel, Rock of: See Rock of Cashel

Castle Cove: 240

Castles: accommodations at, 546–547; architecture, 490; Ashford Castle, 365; Bangor Castle, 479; Blarney Castle, 214–215; Bunratty Castle, 299; Carrickfergus Castle, 458, 470; Desmond Castle (Kinsale), 199; Donegal Castle, 384; Dublin Castle, 49, 70–71; Dunguaire Castle, 319–320, 339; Dunluce Castle, 442–443; Glenveagh Castle, 388–390; Kilkenny Castle, 149–150; Leamaneh Castle, 317; Lynch’s Castle (Galway), 329; Minard Castle, 269; O’Brien’s Castle (Inisheer), 355; Trim Castle, 131–133

Castletownbere: 225

Cathedral of St. Nicholas (Galway): 332–333

Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Waterford): 178

Cathedral Quarter (Belfast): 448, 465–467; eating, 475

Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals

Catholic Church: 32; Latin Mass, in Dublin, 41

Cavan, Saint: 355

Ceilidh: 7, 305

Cell (mobile) phones: 26, 553–555

Celtic and Prehistoric Museum (Ventry): 286

Celts (Celtics): 9, 60–61, 62–64, 258, 269, 286, 290, 483–485, 580; about, 484

Centre for Migration Studies (near Omagh): 211, 426

Chalice of Ardagh: 63, 507

Chaplin, Charlie: 237

Charlemagne: 245, 263, 486, 509

Charles Fort (Kinsale): 197–198

Chester Beatty Library (Dublin): 48, 71–73

Chorister’s Hall Medieval Museum (Waterford): 177

Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin): 74; eating near, 104; sleeping near, 96–98

Christ Church Cathedral (Waterford): 179

Church, The (Dublin): 105

Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 491; Cathedral of St. Nicholas (Galway), 332–333; Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Waterford), 178; Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin), 74; Christ Church Cathedral (Waterford), 179; First Derry Presbyterian Church, 409; Holy Cross Church (Kenmare), 223; Kilmalkedar church, 292; Long Tower Church (Derry), 423; Rock of Cashel Cathedral, 165–166; St. Anne’s Cathedral (Belfast), 467; St. Benen’s Church (Inishmore), 349–350; St. Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny), 152; St. Cavan’s Church (Inisheer), 355; St. Columb’s Cathedral (Derry), 422–423; St. Enda’s Church (Inishmore), 349; St. James’ Church (Dingle), 260, 273; St. Mary’s Church (Dingle), 262, 265; St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral (Dublin), 53–54; St. Nicholas Collegiate Church (Galway), 329–330, 335; St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin), 75–76; Seven Churches (Inishmore), 348

Claddagh (Galway): 331

Claddagh Records (Dublin): 76

Claddagh ring: 331

Clare, County: 16, 298–320; map, 299

Clare, Mary Francis: 221

Clare Museum (Ennis): 301

Clark (Harry) Windows of Díseart (Dingle): 256, 265

Clew Bay: 374

Clifden: 361, 378

Cliffoney: 383

Cliffs of Moher: 307–310; map, 309; tours, 301, 308, 311; Visitors Center, 308–309

Climate: 19, 586

Clochans (beehive huts): 248–249, 287–288, 290–291

Clogher Head: 289

Clontarf: 115

Clonycavan Man: 62–63

Clothing sizes: 585

Cobblestone Pub (Dublin): 94–95

Cobh: 14, 206–212; eating, 211–212; maps, 191, 208; sights, 208–210; sleeping, 210–211; tourist information, 207; transportation, 212

Coffin ships: 373–374; Dunbrody, 185; Jeanie Johnston, 49, 78

Cois na hAbhna (Ennis): 305

Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas (Galway): 329–330, 335

Collins, Michael: 54, 66, 67, 70, 73, 91, 92, 501; Beal na Blath, 215

Collins Barracks (Dublin): 89

Columba, Saint (Colmcille): 348, 383, 385, 412, 423, 486

Columbanus, Saint: 486

Columbus Monument (Galway): 330

Cong: 361–366

Cong Abbey: 364–365

Connemara: 16, 372–378; bus tours, 360–361; map, 362–363; self-guided driving tour, 372–378

Connemara National Park: 377–378

Connemara Regional Airport: 358–359

Connolly, James: 66, 85, 466

Connolly Station (Dublin): 39, 109

Consulates: 579

Coomakesta Pass: 236

Cork, County: 189–216; map, 191

Cork Airport: 206

Cormac’s Chapel (Rock of Cashel): 162–163

Corrib River: 329, 330–331, 333

Costs of trip: 23

Cottage rentals: overview, 545–547

Country houses: Avondale House, 142–143; Derrynane House, 240, 242; Kylemore Abbey, 377; Milltown House (Dingle), 284–285; Mount Stewart House, 458, 480–481; Muckross House, 230–232; Powerscourt Estate Gardens, 138; Rothe House and Garden (Kilkenny), 150

County Antrim: 427–445

County Clare: 298–320; map, 299

County Cork: 189–216; map, 191

County Donegal: 381–394; map, 388–389; planning tips, 381–382; self-guided driving tour, 385–394. See also Derry

County Galway: 322–339

County Kerry: 217–246

County Kilkenny: 146–156

County Mayo: 360–380; map, 362–363

County Tipperary: 159–168, 497

County Wexford: 14, 169–170, 181–188; map, 182

Court House Pub (Dingle): 260, 273

Craggaunowen Open-Air Folk Museum: 304

Crawfordsburn Country Park (Bangor): 478

Crean, Tom: 270–271, 295

Credit cards: 25–26, 524–528

Croagh Patrick: 372–373

Croke Park Stadium (Dublin): 90

Cromwell, Oliver: 57, 75, 149, 150, 165, 173, 183, 186–187, 221, 269, 323, 354, 493

Crooke: 183

Croppies Acre (Dublin): 89

Cross of Cong: 64

Cross of Murdock: 129–130, 507–508

Crown Liquor Saloon (Belfast): 465, 474

Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises

Crystal: 263; Waterford Crystal, 172, 174

Cultra: 458, 468–470

Currachs: 287, 305, 344, 346, 580

Curragh Racecourse: 144

Curran’s Pub (Dingle): 260–261, 272

Currency and exchange: 523–527; Northern Ireland, 396, 525; Republic of Ireland, 525

Cushendall: 445

Customs House Quay (Dublin): 78

Customs regulations: 530

D

Dalton’s Pub (Kinsale): 196, 202

Dance: See Ceilidh; Step dancing

DART (Dublin): 43–44, 111, 116–117

Debit cards: 25–26, 524–528

Declan, Saint: 212

Defoe, Daniel: 190, 201

De Gaulle, Charles: 240

Department stores, in Dublin: 92

Derry: 17, 404–426; eating, 425; helpful hints, 407; history of, 410–411, 415; maps, 406, 414; nightlife, 424; planning tips, 405; self-guided walks, 408–420; sights, 420–423; sleeping, 424–425; tourist information, 405; tours, 407–408; transportation, 405, 407, 425–426

Derrybeg: 391

Derry Guildhall: 421–422

Derrynane House: 240, 242

Derry Walls: 408–413

Desmond Castle (Kinsale): 199

De Valera, Éamon: 54, 66, 67, 70, 86, 215, 501

Dick Mack’s Pub (Dingle): 262–263, 272

Dingle Bay Charters: 257

Dingle Courthouse: 259–260

Dingle Crystal: 263

Dingle Distillery: 266, 285

Dingle Food Festival: 254, 581

Dingle Harbor: 252, 256, 264, 284–285

Dingle Hillwalking Club: 255

Dingle Horse Riding: 268

Dingle Mall: 258

Dingle Peninsula: 12, 250–293; at a glance, 256; maps, 251, 252–253, 284; planning tips, 251–252; self-guided tour, 283–293; vs. Ring of Kerry, 241

Dingle Pitch & Putt: 268

Dingle Pub: 272–273

Dingle Races: 254, 580

Dingle Regatta: 254, 580

Dingle Town: 252–283; eating, 278–281; helpful hints, 254–255; history of, 263; maps, 259, 276–277, 280; nightlife, 271–274; self-guided walk, 258–265; shopping, 260, 263–264; sights/activities, 265–270; sleeping, 274–278; tourist information, 253; tours, 255–258; transportation, 254, 282–283

Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations

Dinosaurs: 238–239, 245, 467

Discounts: 523. See also Money-saving tips

Discover Ulster-Scots Centre (Belfast): 465–466

Distilleries: See Whiskey

Divorce: 505

Dolphins: 256, 257, 266

Donegal, County: 16, 381–394; map, 388–389; planning tips, 381–382; self-guided driving tour, 385–394. See also Derry

Donegal Castle: 384

Donegal Town: 384

Doolin: 310–313; ferries, 311–312, 313

Doolin2Aran Ferries: 311–312, 313, 357–358

Doolin Cliff Walk: 311

Doo Lough Valley: 374

Doyle, Roddy: 510, 582

Drake, HMS: 444, 470

Driminaught: 388

Driving: See Car travel

Drogheda: 135, 581

Drombeg Stone Circle: 200, 489

Druid Theatre (Galway): 330

Drumcliff Village: 382–383

Dublin: 12, 36–110; at a glance, 48–49; arrival in, 39; eating, 101–108; entertainment, 93–95; excursion areas, 110–119; helpful hints, 39–42; itineraries, 37–38; layout of, 38; maps, 40–41, 42, 51, 58–59, 80–81, 96–97, 99, 102–103; planning tips, 37–38; self-guided walk, 50–55; shopping, 92–93; sights, 55–92; sleeping, 95–101; tourist information, 38–39; tours, 44–47, 50; transportation, 39, 42–44, 108–110

Dublin Airport: 108–109

Dublin Bay: 111–119

Dublin Castle: 49, 70–71

Dublin City Hall: 73–74

Dubliner, meeting a: 40–41, 70

Dublin Famine Memorial: 78

Dublin Historical Walking Tour: 44, 48

Dublinia (Dublin): 49, 74–75

Dublin Literary Pub Crawl: 45

Dublin Pass: 38–39

Dublin Writers Museum: 49, 78–79

Dun Aengus (Inishmore): 342, 347–348

Dunbeg Fort: 287

Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross): 185

Dunfanaghy: 391–394

Dunfanaghy Workhouse: 392

Dunganstown: 184

Dunguaire Castle: 319–320, 339

Dun Laoghaire: 38, 111–115; eating, 114–115; map, 112–113; sights/activities, 113–114; sleeping, 114

Dunluce Castle: 442–443

Dunmore Head: 288

Dunquin Harbor: 288, 289, 294

E

Eask Tower (Dingle): 239, 267–268

Eason’s (Dublin): 41–42

Easter Uprising (1916): 50, 52–53, 59, 66, 69, 85, 466, 497, 500, 504; Garden of Remembrance (Dublin), 55; GPO Witness History Exhibit (Dublin), 48, 83–84; guided walking tour, of Dublin, 45; Memorial (Dingle), 258

East Pier (Howth): 117, 118

Eating: 548–553; budgeting, 23, 24; online reviews, 548; tipping, 528. See also Markets; and specific destinations

Economy: 503–505; Northern Ireland, 397; Republic of Ireland, 33

Electricity: 523

Elizabeth II: 34–35, 55, 91, 159, 503

Embassies: 579

Emergencies: 522, 579

Emigration: 85, 385–386, 495–496; Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross), 185; Epic: The Irish Emigration Museum (Dublin), 48, 77–78; Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (Dublin), 49, 78; Queenstown Story (Cobh), 209–210

Enda, Saint: 349

Ennis: 300–307; eating, 306–307; helpful hints, 301; map, 302–303; nightlife, 304–306; sights, 301, 304; sleeping, 306; tourist information, 300; transportation, 300, 307

Enniscorthy: 188

Ennis Friary: 301, 304

Enniskerry: 136, 138

Ennistymon: 313

Entertainment: budgeting, 23. See also Music; Theater

Enya (musician): 385

Epic: The Irish Emigration Museum (Dublin): 48, 77–78

Euro currency: 525

Evensong, in Dublin: 74, 75

Evolution in Ireland: 245

Exchange rates: 525

Eyre Square (Galway): 323, 326, 328–329

F

“Fairy forts”: 84, 184, 256, 269, 287, 292

Falconry: 365–366

Falls Road (Belfast): 461–462

Famine: See Great Potato Famine

Far and Away (movie): 251, 288, 583

Father Ted (TV show): 354

Ferries: 574; Aran Islands, 311–312, 313, 356–358; Ballycastle, 443–444; Belfast, 477; Blasket Islands, 257–258, 293–294; Doolin, 311–312, 313, 357–358; Dublin, 110; Hook Head, 183; map, 562–563; Rathlin Island, 443–444; Skellig Michael, 247–248

Festivals: 580–581; Dingle, 254, 580; Dublin, 39–40; Ennis, 301; Galway, 326, 580, 581; Inishmore, 343–344, 580; Portrush, 430; Tralee, 294–295, 581. See also specific festivals

Fiadh Handwoven Design (Dingle): 260

Field, The (movie): 375

Films, recommended: 583–584. See also specific films

Finn MacCool: 437, 485

First Derry Presbyterian Church: 409

Fishing: Cong, 364; Dingle, 257; Howth, 117, 118; Irish fishing industry, 393; Ring of Kerry, 237; Trim, 131

Flag: Northern Ireland, 397; Republic of Ireland, 33

Fleadh Nua (Ennis): 301, 580

Folk music: See Music

Food: See Eating; Markets

Football: See Gaelic football

Four Courts (Dublin): 67

Foxy John’s Pub (Dingle): 261, 272

Foyle River: 405, 422

France: ferries, 110, 574

Francis Bacon Studio (Dublin): 83

Free Derry Corner: 412, 418

Fungie Statue (Dingle): 264

Fungie the Dolphin (Dingle): 256, 257, 266

G

Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA): 32, 91, 497; Museum (Dublin), 49, 90

Gaelic football: 90, 91, 286

Gaelic language: 32, 511–514; County Donegal, 391; Dingle Peninsula, 261, 282; names, 514; place names, 513; pleasantries, 514; political terms, 512; pub and music words, 512

Gaiety Theatre (Dublin): 93

Gallarus Oratory: 291

Galway: 16, 322–339; eating, 337–339; helpful hints, 326–327; history of, 323; map, 324–325; nightlife, 334–335; planning tips, 322–323; sights, 328–333; sleeping, 336–337; tourist information, 326; tours, 327–328; transportation, 326, 339

Galway Arts Festival: 326, 580

Galway City Museum: 331

Galway Oyster Festival: 326, 581

Galway Races: 326, 580, 581

Game of Thrones (TV show): 441, 456, 460

Garden of Remembrance (Dublin): 55

Garnish Island: 224

Gate Theatre (Dublin): 54–55, 93

Genealogical research: 68, 78, 150, 209–210, 426, 465–466; overview, 210–211

General Post Office (Dublin): 52, 83–84

Geography: Northern Ireland, 397; Republic of Ireland, 33

Georgian House, no. 29 (Dublin): 69

Ghost walks: 193, 202–203

Giant’s Causeway: 437–440; Visitors Centre, 437–438

Girona: 443, 467

Glacier Lake: 235

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum (Dublin): 92

Glasthule: 112, 115

Glebe Stone Circle: 489

Glenariff Forest Park: 444–445

Glencree: 138

Glendalough: 136, 139–142; map, 139; tours, 136–137; Visitors Center, 140

Glens of Antrim: 444

Glenveagh Castle and National Park: 388–390

Glór Irish Music Centre (Ennis): 304–305

Gobbins Cliff Path: 458, 470–471

Gogarty’s Pub (Dublin): 94

Golden Mile (Belfast): 449, 465

Golf: Ballyferriter, 269; Dingle, 269; Kenmare, 223; Portrush, 430

Good Friday Peace Accord: 502, 503

Gortahork: 391

Government: 503–505; Northern Ireland, 397; Republic of Ireland, 33

GPO Witness History Exhibit (Dublin): 48, 83–84

Grafton Street (Dublin): 49, 69; eating, 101–104; shopping, 92

Grand Canal (Dublin): eating, 106–107; sleeping, 99–100

Grand Opera House (Belfast): 465

Grattan, Henry: 494

Gravity Bar (Dublin): 89

Gray, John: 52

Great Blasket Centre: 256, 289, 294

Great Blasket Island: 241, 256, 293–294; ferries, 257–258, 293–294; sleeping, 278; views of, 288–289

Great houses: See Country houses

Great Potato Famine (1845-49): 50, 85, 221, 288, 316, 321, 364, 366, 373–374, 467, 495–496; Dublin Famine Memorial, 78; Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross), 185; Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (Dublin), 49, 78; Strokestown Park and Irish National Famine Museum, 379–380

Great Western Greenway: 368, 370

Green Street (Dingle): 262

Gresham Hotel (Dublin): 54

Grey Point Fort (Bangor): 478

Grianan Aileach Ring Fort: 387

Griffith, Arthur: 67

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 576–577

Guided tours: See Tours

Guinness: 552; in Dingle, 258–259

Guinness, Arthur: 105, 552

Guinness Storehouse (Dublin): 49, 87–89

Guinness World Records: 88

Gweedore: 390

H

Hall of the Red Earl (Galway): 330

Hands Across the Divide (Derry): 422

Ha’ Penny Bridge (Dublin): 50

Harbour Road (Portrush), eating: 434

Harry Clark Windows of Díseart (Dingle): 256, 265

Hawk Walk: 318

Healy Pass: 224–225

Heaney, Seamus: 79, 510

Helen’s Bay: 478

Henry, Paul: 508

Henry Street (Dublin): 53, 92

Heritage Card: 23–24, 532–533

Heritage Island Visitor Attraction Map: 23–24, 533–534

Heuston Station (Dublin): 39, 109

High crosses: 129, 141, 162, 164, 215, 258, 382–383, 507–508

High Street (Kilkenny): 147, 156

Hiking (walks): Ardmore, 213; Bangor, 478; Cliffs of Moher, 309–310, 311; Connemara National Park, 377–378; Croagh Patrick, 373; Dingle, 255, 257, 267–268; Dun Laoghaire, 112; Giant’s Causeway, 439–440; Glenariff Forest Park, 444–445; Glendalough, 140–142; Gobbins Cliff Path, 458, 470–471; Horn Head, 394; Howth, 118; Inisheer, 354–355; Inishmore, 348–349; Kenmare, 223; Killarney National Park, 232; Kinsale, 192–193, 198; Mount Errigal, 390; Skellig Michael, 248–249; Trim, 133–134

Hill of Tara: 61–62, 127–128, 483; map, 121

History: 483–503; timelines, 66–67, 498–499

Holidays: 580–581

Holy Cross Church (Kenmare): 223

Holyhead: ferries, 110, 574

Holy Well of St. Bridget: 310

Hook Head: ferries, 183

Hook Head Lighthouse: 181, 182–183

Hore Abbey: 164

Horn Head: 386, 394

Horseback riding: 223, 268, 286

Horse racing: Curragh Racecourse, 144; Galway Races, 326, 580, 581

Horses, at Irish National Stud: 143–145

Hospital of St. John the Baptist (Newtown): 133

Hostels: overview, 545–547. See also specific destinations

Hotel Europa (Belfast): 449, 465, 472, 474

Hotels: overview, 537–544; rates and deals, 535–536; reservations, 538–539. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations

Howth: 38, 115–119; eating, 119; map, 116; sights/activities, 117–118; sleeping, 119

Hugh Lane Gallery (Dublin): 49, 82–83

Hurling: 90, 91, 152, 485

Hurling Museum and Stadium Experience (Kilkenny): 152

I

Immigration: 503–504, 505

Inch Strand (Dingle): 239, 270

Inisheer Island: 341, 352–356; eating, 356; ferries, 356–358; map, 353; sights, 354–355; sleeping, 356

Inishmaan Island: 340

Inishmore Island: 342–352; eating, 352; ferries, 356–358; maps, 343, 351; planning tips, 342; sights/activities, 346–350; sleeping, 350–352; tourist information, 343–344; tours, 345–346; transportation, 344–345

International Pan Celtic Festival (Derry): 580

Internet security: 558

IRA: See Irish Republican Army

Ireland School of Falconry (Cong): 365–366

Ireland’s Eye: 117, 118

Irish Citizen Army: 66, 85, 497–498

Irish dancing: See Step dancing

Irish Family History Centre (Dublin): 78

Irish Ferries: 110

Irish Film Institute (Dublin): 76

Irish football: See Gaelic football

“Irish fry” breakfast: 539, 541, 548–549

Irish Handmade Glass Company (Waterford): 172

Irish high crosses: See High crosses

Irish language: See Gaelic language

Irish literature: See Literature

Irish music: See Music

Irish National Famine Museum: 379–380

Irish National Heritage Park (Wexford): 186–188

Irish National Stud: 143–145

Irish Rebellion (1798): 128, 136, 243, 494; National 1798 Centre (Enniscorthy), 188

Irish Republican Army (IRA): 67, 235–236, 383, 398, 401, 501

Irish whiskey: See Whiskey

Irish Workhouse Centre (Portumna): 320–321

Irish-Yankee vocabulary: 514–520

Island Ferries: 356–357

Itinerary planning: 18–22

Iveragh Peninsula: See Ring of Kerry

J

James Fort (Kinsale): 198–199

James Joyce Cultural Centre (Dublin): 80–81

James Joyce Tower and Museum (Dun Laoghaire): 112

James Street (Westport): 368

Japanese Gardens (Kildare): 145

Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (Dublin): 49, 78

Jerpoint Abbey: 157–158

JFK Arboretum (Wexford): 184

John F. Kennedy Park (Galway): 328–329

John Weldon Jewellers (Dingle): 263

Joyce, James: 5, 45, 68–69, 79, 82, 104, 510; Bloomsday (Dublin), 39, 580; Cultural Centre (Dublin), 80–81; Tower and Museum (Dun Laoghaire), 112

Joyce, William: 332

K

Keating, Sean: 508

Kells Priory: 158–159

Kenmare: 16, 217–228; eating, 227–228; helpful hints, 220, 222; history of, 221; map, 219; nightlife, 224; planning tips, 217–218; sights/activities, 222–223; sleeping, 225–227; tourist information, 220; transportation, 228

Kenmare Ancient Stone Circle: 222–223, 489

Kenmare Golf Club: 223

Kenmare Heritage Centre: 222

Kenmare Lace and Design Centre: 222

Kennedy, John F.: 183–185, 328–329

Kennedy Homestead (County Wexford): 183–185

Kennedy Park (Galway): 328–329

Kerry, County: 217–246

Kerry, Ring of: See Ring of Kerry

Kerry Airport: 254, 296

Kerry County Museum (Tralee): 295

Kevin, Saint: 139, 141–142

Kildare: 143, 144, 146

Kilfenora: 315–316

Kilkenny: 14, 147–156; eating, 156; helpful hints, 148; maps, 148; nightlife, 153–154; planning tips, 146–147; sights/activities, 149–153; sleeping, 154–156; tourist information, 147; tours, 149; transportation, 148, 156

Kilkenny, County: 146–156

Kilkenny Castle: 149–150

Kilkenny Design Centre: 150

Killarney: 229–230

Killarney National Park: 232

Killarney Outlet Centre: 229

Killary Harbor: 374

Killeany: 349–350

Killorglin: 239

Killybegs: 393

Kilmainham Gaol (Dublin): 48, 86–87

Kilmalkedar church: 292

Kilmurvey (Inishmore): 348

Kilronan (Inishmore): 342–347; eating, 352; map, 351; sleeping, 350–352

Kinsale: 14, 190–206; eating, 204–205; helpful hints, 191–192; history of, 200–201; maps, 191, 194–195; nightlife, 202–203; planning tips, 190; sights, 193–202; sleeping, 203–204; tourist information, 190; tours, 192–193; transportation, 191, 206

Kinsale Harbor: 190, 193, 196, 200

Kinsale Regional Museum: 199, 202

Kinsale Rugby Sevens Tournament: 191

Kinvarra: 319–320

Kissane Sheep Farm: 232–233

Knightstown: 239, 246

Knightstown Heritage Museum: 239

Knock Shrine: 378

Knowth: 121–122, 125; planning tips, 122; tours, 121; transportation, 122

Kylemore Abbey: 377

Kyteler, Alice: 152

Kyteler’s Inn (Kilkenny): 153, 156

L

Lace (lacemaking): 221, 222; Kenmare Lace and Design Centre, 222

Ladies View: 232

Lagan Boat Company (Belfast): 456–457

Lahinch: 299, 309

Language: See Gaelic language

Larkin, James: 52, 85

“Latin Quarter” (Galway): 328–331

Laundry: 523. See also specific destinations

Leacanabuaile Ring Fort: 238, 246

Leamaneh Castle: 317

Leenane: 375

Leenane Sheep and Wool Centre: 375

Leinster House (Dublin): 65

Leprechaun Museum (Dublin): 84

Letterfrack: 377

Letterkenny: 386, 387

Liberty Hall (Dublin): 50

Liddy’s (Pat) Walking Tours: 45–46

Liffey River: 38, 50, 77, 78

Lindbergh, Charles: 288

Linen Hall Library (Belfast): 463–465

Lisbeth Mulcahy Weaver (Dingle): 263

Liscannor: 311

Lisdoonvarna: 313

Lispole: 269

Literature: 45, 82, 509–510, 581–583; Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, 45; Dublin Writers Museum, 49, 78–79; National Library of Ireland (Dublin), 68. See also specific writers

Little Museum of Dublin: 69–70

Little Skellig: 244, 247, 249

Liverpool: ferries, 477, 574

Lodging: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Londonderry: See Derry

Long’s Horseriding Centre (Ventry): 268, 286

Long Tower Church (Derry): 423

Looscaunagh Lough: 232

Lord Ventry Manor House (Dingle): 285

Lough Corrib: 364

Lough Mask: 364

Lough Tay: 138

Lough Veagh: 388, 389

Louisburgh: 361, 374

LUAS (Dublin): 43–44

Lusitania: 197, 199, 201, 202, 207, 209, 210

Lynch’s Castle (Galway): 329

Lyric Theatre (Belfast): 471

M

Maam Valley: 361

McCourt, Frank: 510, 581

McDonagh, Thomas: 150

Macroom: 216

“Magdalene laundries”: 334

Mail: 558–559. See also specific destinations

Man of Aran (movie): 346, 583

Mansions: See Country houses

Maps: See Map Index

Marcie Regan’s Pub (Trim): 133–134

Maritime Museum of Ireland (Dun Laoghaire): 114

Markets: Belfast, 452; Dingle Town, 254; Dublin, 53, 76–77; Dunfanaghy, 392; Galway, 326, 330; Howth, 119; Kilkenny, 148; Kinsale, 191; Macroom, 216

Marriage equality: 34

Matchmaking Festival (Lisdoonvarna): 313

Matthew, Theobald: 54

Matt Molloy’s Pub (Westport): 369, 370

Mayo, County: 360–380; map, 362–363

Meagher, Thomas Francis: 176, 178, 581

Medical help: 522, 579

Medieval banquet, at Dunguaire Castle: 319–320, 339

Medieval Mile Museum (Kilkenny): 150, 152

Meeting House Square (Dublin): 76

Megalithic art: See Archaeological sites

Mellifont Abbey: 128–129

Mellon Centre for Migration Studies (near Omagh): 211, 426

Merrion Square (Dublin): 49, 68–69

Messenger Bike Rally (Dublin): 39

Metric conversions: 585

Midleton Distillery: 213–214

Military Road over Sally Gap: 138–139

Millennium Bridge (Dublin): 77, 92

Millennium Forum (Derry): 424

Milltown Cemetery (Belfast): 462

Milltown House (Dingle): 284–285

Milltown River: 284

Minard Castle: 269

Mobile phones: 26, 553–555

Moher: See Cliffs of Moher

Monasterboice: 129–130, 508

Monasteries: See Abbeys and monasteries

Money: 523–529; budgeting, 23; Northern Ireland, 396, 525. See also specific destinations

Money-saving tips: 23–24, 523; Belfast, 452; Dublin, 38–39, 43–44; hotels, 535–537; sightseeing passes, 23–24, 532–534

Monks’ Fishing Hut (Cong): 364

Moore Street Market (Dublin): 53, 76–77

Morrison, Van: 403

Mountain Man (Dingle): 255

Mountbatten, Louis: 383

Mount Brandon: 283, 289

Mount Eagle: 264, 286, 287, 288

Mount Errigal: 390

Mount Stewart House: 458, 480–481

Movies, recommended: 583–584. See also specific movies

Muckross House: 230–232

Muckross Traditional Farms: 231–232

Mullaghmore Head: 383

Mulranny: 370

Murals: Belfast, 454–455, 461–462. See also Bogside Murals

Murphy, William: 85

Murrisk: 361, 372–373, 373

Museum of Free Derry: 417

Museum of Treasures (Waterford): 174–178

Museum of Vintage Radio (Howth): 117–118

Music: 7–8; glossary of Gaelic terms, 512; Belfast, 471; Cashel, 166; Derry, 424; Dingle Town, 256, 267, 271–273; Doolin, 311; Dublin, 93–94, 107–108; guided tours, 45, 48; Dunfanaghy, 394; Dun Laoghaire, 114–115; Ennis, 304–306; Galway, 334–335; Inishmore, 342–343, 346–347; Kenmare, 224; Kilkenny, 153–154; Kinsale, 202; Lisdoonvarna, 313; Portmagee, 244; Portrush, 434–435; Tralee, 294–295, 581; Trim, 135; Waterford, 180; Westport, 369, 370–371

N

Napoleonic Tower (Inisheer): 354

Nassau Street (Dublin): 92

National 1798 Centre (Enniscorthy): 188

National Concert Hall (Dublin): 93

National Gallery of Ireland (Dublin): 49, 65–68, 506

National Leprechaun Museum (Dublin): 84

National Library of Ireland (Dublin): 68

National Maritime Museum of Ireland (Dun Laoghaire): 114

National Museum: Archaeology (Dublin): 48, 60–65, 506; map, 61; self-guided tour, 60–65

National Museum: Decorative Arts and History (Dublin): 49, 89

National Museum: Natural History (Dublin): 68

National Transport Museum (Howth): 118

Navogue boats: 344

Newgrange: 121–122, 124–125; map, 121; planning tips, 122; tours, 121; transportation, 122

Newmills Corn and Flax Mills: 387–388

New Ross: 185–186

Newtown: 133

Nightlife: budgeting, 23. See also Music; Pubs; Theater

Nomadic, SS: 460

Nomads (Travellers): about, 376

North Down Museum (Bangor): 479

Northern Ireland: 6, 9–10, 396–482; almanac, 397; border crossing, 384–385; currency, 396, 525; history, 495–502; map, 399; overview, 396–403; political terminology, 401. See also specific destinations

Northern Ireland Drive: 361

Northern Ireland War Memorial (Belfast): 467

North Pier (Bangor): 478–479

Northwest 200 Race: 430

Number Twenty-Nine Georgian House (Dublin): 69

O

O’Brien, William Smith: 52

O’Brien Line: 311–312, 313, 358

O’Brien’s Castle (Inisheer): 355

O’Brien’s Tower: 309–310

O’Casey, Sean: 510

Oceanworld (Dingle): 256, 266

O’Connell, Daniel: 52, 53–54, 62, 68, 73, 79, 92, 128, 379, 481, 495; biographical sketch, 243; Derrynane House, 240, 242

O’Connell Bridge (Dublin): 50

O’Connell Street (Dublin): 38, 48, 50–55; map, 51; self-guided walk, 50–55

Octagon (Westport): 367–368, 371

Odyssey, the (Belfast): 457

Old Bushmills Distillery: 440–442

Old Jameson Distillery (Dublin): 86

Old Mellifont Abbey: 128–129

Old Midleton Distillery: 213–214

Old Military Road over Sally Gap: 138–139

Omagh: 426

O’Malley, Grace: 374

O’Neill, Hugh: 200–201, 492

Organized tours: See Tours

O’Shea’s Merchant Pub (Dublin): 94

P

Packing tips and checklist: 26, 587

Palace Bar (Dublin): 94

Parknasilla Hotel: 227, 235

Parnell, Charles Stewart: 54, 86, 92, 497; Avondale House, 142–143

Parnell Square (Dublin): 54; sleeping near, 100–101

Passports: 25, 522

Patrick, Saint: 9, 30, 62, 63, 64, 75, 161, 485–486; Croagh Patrick, 372–373; Cross of (Rock of Cashel), 161, 162; Day, 39, 580; Hill of Tara, 120, 128

Patrún Festival (Kilronan): 343–344, 580

Pavilion Theatre (Dun Laoghaire): 114

Peace Bridge (Derry): 405, 422

Peace Wall (Belfast): 461–462

Peace Wall (Derry): 413

Pearse, Patrick: 52, 59, 66, 466, 500

Peat bogs: 375–377

Penal Laws: 178, 423, 493–494

Penn, William: 216

Performing arts: See Music; Theater

Phone numbers, useful: 579

Phones: 553–558

Pickie Fun Park (Bangor): 479

Pius IX, Pope: 316, 379

Plain of Tipperary: 159, 164–165

Playhouse Theatre (Derry): 424

Polish immigration: 505

Political Gaelic terms: 512

Political murals: about, 419; Belfast, 454–455, 461–462. See also Bogside Murals

Population: Northern Ireland, 397; Republic of Ireland, 33

Porterhouse (Dublin): 94

Portmagee: 238, 242–244

Portrush: 17, 429–435; eating, 433–435; map, 431; sights/activities, 430, 432; sleeping, 432–433; tourist information, 430; transportation, 435

Portrush Recreation Grounds: 432

Portumna: 320–321

Post offices: 558–559; Belfast, 452; General Post Office (Dublin), 52, 83–84. See also specific destinations

Potato Famine (1845–49): See Great Potato Famine

Poulnabrone Dolmen: 317–318

Powerscourt Estate Gardens: 138

Powerscourt Waterfall: 138

Prehistoric sites: See Archaeological sites

Pubs: 550–553; glossary of Gaelic terms, 512; Ardmore, 213; Ballyferriter, 290; Cashel, 168; Derry, 424; Dingle, 260–261, 262–263; Dingle Town, 271–273; Doolin, 311; Dublin, 93–95, 107–108; guided tours, 45, 48; Dunfanaghy, 394; Dun Laoghaire, 114–115; Ennis, 305–307; Galway, 334–335; Howth, 119; Inisheer, 356; Inishmore, 342–343, 346–347, 352; Kenmare, 224; Kilfenora, 316; Kilkenny, 153–154; Kinsale, 202–203; Leenane, 375; Lisdoonvarna, 313; Portmagee, 244; Portrush, 434–435; Trim, 133–134, 135; Waterford, 180; Westport, 369, 370–371

Puck Fair (Killorglin): 580

Puicin Wedge Tomb: 269–270

Q

Quays, the (Galway): 330, 335

Queenstown Story (Cobh): 209–210

Queen’s University (Belfast): 452, 468; eating, 476; sleeping near, 472

Quiet Man, The (movie): 365, 584

Quiet Man Museum (Cong): 365

R

Rail passes: 560–561, 576

Rail travel: See Train travel

Rathlin Boathouse Visitor Centre: 444

Rathlin Island: 443–444

Rathlin Island Seabird Centre: 444

Reasc Monastery: 290–291

Rebellion Walking Tour (Dublin): 45

Red Hand of Ulster: 469, 481

Reginald’s Tower (Waterford): 175–176

Rental properties: overview, 544–545

Republic of Ireland: 6, 9, 30–394; almanac, 33; border crossing, 384–385; currency, 525; history, 495–502; map, 31; overview, 30–35. See also specific destinations

Resources from Rick Steves: 576–577

Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations

Rice, James: 179

Ring forts: See Archaeological sites

Ring of Kerry: 16, 233–246; map, 236–237; planning tips, 233–234; ring forts, 238–239; self-guided driving tour, 235–239; sights, 240–246; tours, 220, 222; vs. Dingle Peninsula, 241. See also Kenmare

River Valley Riding Stables (Kenmare): 223

Robinson, Mary: 501–502

Rock of Cashel: 14, 159–168; maps, 148, 160; planning tips, 146–147; self-guided tour, 161–166; tours, 149, 159

Rock of Cashel Cathedral: 165–166

Romans, ancient: 30, 436, 484, 485

Room and board: See Eating; Sleeping

Rose of Tralee International Festival: 294–295, 581

Rossaveel: 356–357

Rossville Street (Derry): 412, 414, 417

Rothe House and Garden (Kilkenny): 150

Roundabouts: 568, 572

Roundstone: 361, 378

Roundwood: 139

Royal Portrush Golf Club: 430

RTE (Raidió teilifís Éireann): 34, 518, 571

Rugby: 39–40, 90, 191

Ryanair: 110, 575

Ryan’s Daughter (movie): 261, 263, 270, 284–285, 289, 290, 584

S

Saints: See specific saints

St. Anne’s Cathedral (Belfast): 467

St. Augustine Chapel (Derry): 411–412

St. Benen’s Church (Inishmore): 349–350

St. Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny): 152

St. Cavan’s Church (Inisheer): 355

St. Columb Heritage Center (Derry): 423

St. Columb’s Cathedral (Derry): 422–423

St. Enda’s Church (Inishmore): 349

St. Fiachra’s Garden (Kildare): 145

St. Finian’s Bay: 238; sleeping, 242–244

St. George’s Market (Belfast): 452

St. James’ Church (Dingle): 260, 273

St. John’s Eve Bonfire Night (Kilronan): 344, 580

St. Kevin’s Church (Dublin): 41

St. Kevin’s Cross: 141

St. Kevin’s Day: 139

St. Kieran’s Church (Glendalough): 142

St. Mary’s Abbey (Howth): 118

St. Mary’s Church (Dingle): 262, 265

St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral (Dublin): 53–54

St. Multose Church (Kinsale): 197

St. Nicholas Cathedral (Galway): 332–333

St. Nicholas Collegiate Church (Galway): 329–330, 335

St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin): 75–76

St. Patrick’s Cross (Rock of Cashel): 161, 162

St. Patrick’s Day: 39, 580

Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral (Newtown): 133

St. Stephen’s Green (Dublin): 49, 69, 95; sleeping near, 98–99

St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre (Dublin): 69, 105

Sally Gap: 138–139

Salmon Weir Bridge (Galway): 333

Salthill: 333, 335

Sandycove: 111, 113, 114; sleeping, 114

Sandy Row (Belfast): 455, 462

Sayers, Peig: 289, 293

Scilly Walk (Kinsale): 198

Sciúird Archaeology Tours: 255–257

Scotland: 436; ferries, 477

Scott, Robert Falcon: 270–271

Scuba diving: 444

Seasons: 19

Set Theatre (Kilkenny): 154

“Seven Churches” (Inishmore): 348

Shackleton, Ernest: 270–271

Shamrock: 9, 128

Shankill Road (Belfast): 462

Shannon Airport: 300, 307

Shaw, George Bernard: 79, 82, 246, 510

Shelbourne Hotel (Dublin): 69, 108

Shopping: clothing sizes, 585; hours, 522–523; VAT refunds, 529. See also Crystal; Lace; Markets; and specific destinations

Siege Museum (Derry): 410

Siege of Londonderry: 408–412, 420, 423, 493

Sightseeing: apps and navigation tools, 530, 569; best three-week trip, 20–21; budgeting, 23; itinerary planning, 18–22; must-see Destinations, 12; passes, 23–24, 532–534; planning tips, 531–532; reservations, 25; worth-it destinations, 14–17. See also specific sights and destinations

SIM cards: 555

Sinn Fein: 33, 66–67, 401, 461, 497, 500

Siopa Ceoil (Dingle): 256, 267, 273

Skellig Experience Centre (Valentia): 238–239, 242, 244

Skellig Michael: 246–249, 285

Skelligs Chocolate Factory: 238

Slea Head: 283, 288; biking, 267–268; eating, 281

Slea Head Drive: 284–292

Sleep code: 536

Sleeping: 534–547; booking websites, 542; budgeting, 23; online reviews, 548; rates and deals, 535–536; reservations, 24, 25, 538–539; types of accommodations, 537–547; vouchers, 536–537. See also specific destinations

“Sleeping Giant”: 289

Small Gallery (Dingle): 260

Smartphones: 26, 553–555

Smerwick Harbor: 292

Smithfield (Dublin): 86, 94–95

Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny: 153

Smock Alley Theatre (Dublin): 76, 93

Sneem: 235, 240

Somme Heritage Centre (Bangor): 481

Sounds of History Museum (Rock of Cashel): 166

South Pole Inn (Dingle): 270

Spanish Arch (Galway): 330–331

Spanish Armada: 30, 190, 196, 289, 421, 467

Special events: See Festivals

Spike Island (Cobh): 207–208

Spire, the (Dublin): 52–53

Spirit of Kinsale: 193

Sports: See Biking; Fishing; Gaelic Athletic Association; Gaelic football; Golf; Hiking; Hurling

Staigue Fort: 234, 240

Star Wars (movie): 247, 251, 289

Stena Line: 110, 477, 574

Step dancing: Belfast, 471; Galway, 335

Steves, Andy, weekend tour packages: 47, 50

Stoker, Bram: 79, 82, 510

Stone circles: about, 488–489. See also Archaeological sites

Stoneyford: sleeping, 155–156

Storm Beach: 269

Strokestown Park and Irish National Famine Museum: 379–380

Strongbow: 74, 150, 173, 177, 179, 487

Surfing: 238, 309

Sweny’s Pharmacy (Dublin): 82

Swift, Jonathan: 75–76, 79, 82, 494, 509

Sybil Head: 289

Synge, J. M.: 510

T

Tara, Hill of: See Hill of Tara

Tara Brooch: 64, 485

Tara’s Palace Museum of Childhood (Powerscourt): 138

Taxes: VAT refunds, 529

Taxis: 564; Belfast, 453, 455–456; Dublin, 44, 109; tipping, 528. See also specific destinations

Telephone numbers, useful: 579

Telephones: 553–558

Temperance Hall (Dingle): 261–262

Temperatures, average monthly: 586

Temple Bar (Dublin): 48, 76–77; eating, 76–77, 106; nightlife, 77, 94; pubs, 94; shopping, 76, 92

Temple Bar Square (Dublin): 76

Theater: Belfast, 471; Derry, 424; Dublin, 93; Dun Laoghaire, 114; Ennis, 304–305; Galway, 330; Kilkenny, 154; Waterford, 172; Westport, 367

Theatre Royal (Waterford): 172

Theft alerts: 27, 39, 522, 527–528

Thompson Dock & Pump-House (Belfast): 460

3 Arena (Dublin): 93

Three Sisters: 289

Thurles: 168

Time zones: 522

Tiny Bridge (Dingle): 258

Tipperary, County: 159–168

Tipping: 528–529

Titanic: in Belfast, 446, 457, 459–460, 469; in Cobh, 207–209

Titanic Belfast: 457, 458, 459

Titanic Experience (Cobh): 208–209

Titanic Quarter (Belfast): 448, 457, 459–460

Tone, Wolfe: 105, 494

Torc Waterfall: 232

Tory Island: 394

Tourist information: 521–522. See also specific destinations

Tours: Antrim Coast, 428; Belfast, 455–457; Boyne Valley, 121; the Burren, 301, 314–315; Cliffs of Moher, 301, 308, 311; Cobh, 207–208; Connemara, 360–361; Derry, 407–408; Dingle Peninsula, 255–258; Dublin, 44–47, 50; Ennis, 301; Galway, 327–328; Inishmore, 345–346; Kenmare, 220, 222; Kilkenny, 149; Kinsale, 192–193; Rick Steves, 576; Ring of Kerry, 220, 222; Rock of Cashel, 149, 159; Trim, 131; Waterford, 172; Westport, 367; Wicklow Mountains, 136–137

Tower Museum Derry: 420–421

Traditional Irish music: See Music

Trad on the Prom (Galway): 335

Train travel: 559–561; map, 562–563; Bangor, 478; Belfast, 449, 453, 476; the Burren, 299; Cobh, 212; Derry, 405, 407, 425–426; Dublin, 39, 43–44, 109, 111; Ennis, 300, 307; Galway, 339; Howth, 116–117; Irish National Stud, 143; Kilkenny, 148, 156; Kinsale, 206; Portrush, 435; Tralee, 296; Waterford, 180

Tralee: 294–297

Transit passes: 23; Dublin, 43–44

Transportation: 559–575; budgeting, 23; map, 562–563. See also Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Car travel; Ferries; Train travel; and specific destinations

Transport Museum (Cultra): 458, 468–470

Transport Museum (Howth): 118

Travel insurance: 25

Travellers (nomads): about, 376

Travel smarts: 27–28

Travel tips: 522–523

Treasury (Dublin): 63–65

Trim: 130–135; eating, 135; helpful hints, 131; map, 132; sights/activities, 131–134; sleeping, 134; tourist information, 130; tours, 131; transportation, 135

Trim Castle: 131–133

Trinity College (Dublin): 48, 55–60; guided tours, 56; pubs near, 95; sleeping, 98

Trinity Old Library (Dublin): 48, 56–60

Trip costs: 23

Troubles, the: 10, 396, 398–400, 401, 411, 413, 417, 460–461, 502

Tully Walk: 145

Twenty-Nine Georgian House (Dublin): 69

U

Uber: 564; Dublin, 44

Uilleann: 7–8

Ulster American Folk Park (near Omagh): 426

Ulster Defense Association (UDA): 401

Ulster Folk Park and Transport Museum (Cultra): 458, 468–470

Ulster Museum (Belfast): 458, 467

Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF): 398, 401, 469, 497

United Irishmen: 494–495

V

Valentia Heritage Museum: 246

Valentia Island: 238, 244, 246

Valley of the Boyne: See Boyne Valley

VAT refunds: 529

Ventry (town): 286

Ventry Estate: 285

Verbal Arts Centre (Derry): 412

Victoria Square (Belfast): 452, 475–476; eating, 475–476

Vikings: 64, 65, 173, 247, 289, 486–487; Dublinia (Dublin), 49, 74–75; Reginald’s Tower (Waterford), 175–176

Viking Splash Tours (Dublin): 47

Vinegar Hill: 188

Virgin Mary shrines: about, 379

Vocabulary, Irish-Yankee: 514–520

W

Waterford: 14, 170–181; eating, 180; helpful hints, 172; history of, 173, 176; map, 171; planning tips, 170; shopping, 172, 174, 178; sights, 172, 174–179; sleeping, 179; tourist information, 171–172; tours, 172; transportation, 180–181

Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre: 172, 174

Waterford Museum of Treasures: 174–178

Watergate Theatre (Kilkenny): 154

Water parks: 333, 432

Waterville: 235, 237

Waterworld (Portrush): 432

Weather: 19, 586

Weekend Student Adventures: 47, 50

Wellington Column (Trim): 130

Western Belfast: 448, 460–462

West Kerry Craft Guild (Dingle): 260

West Pier (Howth): 117, 118

Westport: 16, 366–372; maps, 362–363, 369

Wexford, County: 14, 169–170, 181–188; map, 182

Whiskey: Dingle Distillery, 266, 285; Old Bushmills Distillery, 440–442; Old Jameson Distillery (Dublin), 86; Old Midleton Distillery, 213–214

Wicklow Mountains: 136–143; map, 137; tours, 136–137

Wild Atlantic Way: 283, 567

Wilde, Oscar: 5, 68–69, 79, 82, 510

Winehouse, Amy: 260, 273

Workhouses: 320–321, 392

World War I: 85, 178, 375, 463; Somme Heritage Centre (Bangor), 481. See also Lusitania

World War II: 398–399, 411, 446, 463, 479

Worm Hole (Inishmore): 348–349

Writers Museum (Dublin): 49, 78–79

Y

Yeats, Jack B.: 65, 508

Yeats, William Butler: 68, 79, 82, 93, 118, 500, 509–510; gravesite, 382