FISH AND SEAFOOD
WITH BURMA’S THOUSAND miles of coastline, you might imagine that people there prefer ocean fish, but freshwater fish are the favorites, carp and catfish in particular.
Like home cooks everywhere, Burmese cooks are creative and resourceful: fish is fried, or steamed with aromatics, or simmered in curry. Dried anchovies are quickly fried with ginger and chiles to make an easy snack food (see this page). Boneless fish is mashed to make fried fish cakes (see this page) or dressed almost like a salad (Fluffy Lemongrass Fish). And then there’s curry—fish, shrimp, or crayfish simmered in aromatic flavorings, usually with a little tomato (see this page). The Kachin have a seductive herb-laden steamed fish curry (see this page). And the Tai Koen in the eastern part of Shan State combine catfish with lemongrass and herbs (see this page). You’ll also find fish and seafood dishes in Salads and in Soups.
Use fish that are available where you are, and try to choose fish that are not endangered but are being raised or caught sustainably. Get into the habit of asking where the fish at your local grocery or fishmonger come from. Consult an online resource such as http://www.foodandwaterwatch.org/fish/seafood/guide to find out which fish are “low risk.” The situation keeps changing, so it’s always a good idea to check.
crispy anchovies with chiles and ginger
SERVES 4 TO 6
I love having a supply of fried anchovies on hand. I put them out as a snack or at mealtime as a little side condiment. They keep well for several weeks if stored, once completely cooled, in a well-sealed glass jar.
Dried anchovies, 1½ to 2 inches long and silvery, are widely available in Asian markets, usually in plastic bags. There’s a little chile heat here as well as warmth from fried ginger and garlic.
2 cups (about 2 ounces) loosely packed dried anchovies
5 or 6 dried red chiles
2 to 3 cups peanut oil for deep-frying
1 tablespoon thinly sliced garlic
2 teaspoons fine matchsticks ginger
Rinse the anchovies, pat dry, and set aside to air-dry.
Break the chiles in half, discard the seeds and stems, and place in a bowl with hot water to cover. Let soak for 10 minutes to soften, then drain, mince, and set aside.
Pour the oil into a stable wok or a deep fryer or deep pot; you want the oil to be about 2 inches deep, to cover the anchovies. (If you want to use less oil, fry the anchovies in 2 batches.) Heat the oil to 350°F—use a thermometer or else the following test: hold a wooden chopstick or the handle of a wooden spoon vertically in the pan, touching the bottom; if oil bubbles up along the wood, then it is at temperature. Add the anchovies and fry for about a minute, until crisped up and just starting to turn color, then transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate.
If you used a wok, pour off all but a scant tablespoon of the oil and heat over medium-high heat. If you used another arrangement, place a wok or heavy skillet over medium-high heat and add a scant tablespoon (a little more if using a skillet) of the anchovy-frying oil. Toss in the garlic and ginger and stir-fry briefly, until the garlic starts to turn golden; then add the chiles and stir-fry for another 10 seconds or so. Add the anchovies and stir for about 30 seconds.
Transfer to a bowl. Serve hot or at room temperature.
fish cakes and fish balls
SERVES 4 TO 6 AS AN APPETIZER
Fish cakes are made of boneless fish that is blended with aromatics, shaped into patties, and fried. It’s an easy process, especially with a food processor rather than the traditional mortar and pestle. Fish cakes can be served as an appetizer, or else sliced and dressed for a salad (
Fish Cake Salad with Shaved Cabbage). The paste can also be shaped into small round fish balls, which once boiled are perfect as appetizers or as an addition to noodle soups.
About ½ pound tilapia or other white fish fillets, rinsed and coarsely chopped
About 2 tablespoons minced shallots
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon minced ginger
Scant ½ teaspoon salt
Peanut oil for shallow-frying
Combine the fish, shallots, garlic, ginger, and salt in a food processor and process to a smooth, even paste.
Put a lightly oiled large plate on your work surface. For fish cakes: Scoop up a scant 1 tablespoon fish paste at a time, shape it into a smooth ball between your palms, flatten it to a disk about 1½ inches in diameter, and set on the plate. You should have 15 to 18 patties. For fish balls: scoop up a generous 1 teaspoon of the paste, roll it lightly between moist palms to shape a ball, and set on the plate; repeat with the remaining paste.
To fry fish cakes: Heat a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Pour in about ¼ inch of peanut oil. When the oil is hot, slide in the patties one by one. Cook in batches; stop adding them when the pan gets crowded. Cook until the underside is golden, 3 to 4 minutes, using a spatula to prevent the cakes from sticking to the pan. Turn them over and cook until golden on the underside. Hold a spider or sieve ready in your other hand as you use the spatula to lift out each disk, and place it in the sieve or spider, letting excess oil drain off, then transfer to a plate to cool and firm up. Repeat with the remaining fish cakes.
To cook fish balls: Drop the balls into a pot of boiling broth or water. Once cooked through, in 2 to 3 minutes, they can be used in noodle dishes or frozen for later use.
