Lapin Sauté
Parliament Hill and the Plains
Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch
Chez Boulay Bistro Boréal.
Look for S to find recommended restaurants
S Best Place to Get a Taste of the North: The menu at Chez Boulay Bistro Boréal is full of game and fish, with a focus on meats that are sustainable and come from the northern part of the province (click here).
S Best Late-Night Eats: Credited with popularizing poutine, Chez Ashton is Québec’s preeminent fast-food joint and the ideal spot to refuel after a night on the town (click here).
Crêperie le Billig
S Most Authentic Québécois Grub: Established in 1975, Buffet de l’Antiquaire serves heaping portions of traditional cuisine and some great breakfasts in a tiny 1950s-style diner (click here).
S Best Upscale Bistro: Situated on a tiny street in the Vieux-Port, L’Échaudé has both an elegant and relaxed atmosphere with classic bistro dishes (click here).
S Best People-Watching: Lapin Sauté is right in the heart of rue du Petit-Champlain in Lower Vieux-Québec, and its terrasse boasts the best lunchtime people-watching spot in the city (click here).
S Best Tasting Menu: One of the best haute cuisine restaurants in the city, Restaurant L’Initiale features tasting menus with local food in a down-to-earth, modern interior (click here).
S Most Bang for Your Buck: Eat among savvy locals at Le Clocher Penché, where the bistro fare is made with fresh, regional ingredients and the bill is always a pleasant surprise (click here).
S Most Likely to Surprise: Both the wine and food menu change regularly at Le Moine Échanson, an unassuming restaurant that’s all about getting you to discover new flavors from various corners of the globe (click here).
S Most Authentic Crêpes: Run by an expat from Brittany, Crêperie le Billig serves up the best crêpes in the city, which are even more delicious when you down them with cider (click here).
S Best Café: Brûlerie St-Roch is packed for a reason: The lattes are the best and the ambience is effortlessly cool (click here).
With the most restaurants per capita in the country, Québec City has no shortage of choice when it comes to dining. The challenge isn’t finding a decent place to eat, it’s deciding which ones you have time for. The number of noteworthy, award-winning chefs and restaurants in Québec, which is well respected for its gastronomy, can be both tiring and exhilarating. Whether serving up a simple breakfast or an intricate haute cuisine meal, chefs tend toward terroir, cooking that uses local produce and ingredients. In this region of the province those ingredients include wild game, such as elk, red deer, and bison, and seafood like scallops and cod.
Whereas the big trend at Montréal restaurants is market-fresh cuisine cooked by up-and-coming chefs in a boisterous atmosphere, the trend in Québec is more traditional, with a focus on details and inventive preparation, though a few young, breakout stars can be found, mostly in the Saint-Roch section of town. Even the decor of some of the city’s best restaurants can feel a little staid and reserved—few, if any, of the city’s restaurants turn into nightclubs once the tables have been cleared. The ones that do, however, can be found on La Grande-Allée, just outside the old walls.
Since so many of the restaurants offer top-quality ingredients and service, the price tag can also be high, though it’s often worth it. One way to circumvent the cost without sacrificing the experience is to order the table d’hôte, which gives you the option of a three-course meal, usually appetizer, main, and dessert, for a set price. Another option is to go to one of the more expensive restaurants for lunch. Following the French tradition, restaurants here serve lunch well into the afternoon (service ends around 2pm), often with a specific lunchtime menu. Also in the French tradition is the city’s love affair with cafés and bakeries; they’re abundant, delicious, and much cheaper than a sit-down restaurant.
Barely a street goes by that doesn’t feature a cute, independent café or two, most of which serve delectable pastries, light lunches, and choice coffee. Though you can always get your coffee to go, it’s rare to see resident Quebeckers striding along with their lattes; in fact, there are only four Starbucks shops in the city, and other chain coffee shops are just as rare. Bakeries, too, can be found in every neighborhood, each offering its own take on freshly baked bread and pastries.
If you’re vegetarian, it’s best to plan ahead when it comes to meals. Though some restaurants offer a vegetarian option, many do not, and vegans will be flat out of luck for most table d’hôte options. Pescatarians will find abundant choices—fresh fish is widely available—but vegetarians may need to rely on salad, and plan to seek out specialty spots that cater to those who’d prefer to avoid foie gras and game meat.
Québec is generally pretty tourist-friendly, and menus are often available in English. Even when they’re not, most servers are happy to translate for you if they’re able. A lot of fuss can be made about the dangers of falling into a “tourist trap” when you’re visiting a city like Québec, but the reality is, most restaurants, regardless of the number of tourists at their tables, are adept at making some seriously good meals. Whether you’re enjoying a tasting menu by one of the top chefs or eating meat pie by candlelight in a laid-back bistro, you’ll always find a lively and welcoming atmosphere—the city’s most charming and infectious trait.
| Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town | Map 1 (tap here) |
Located in the oldest house in the city (built in 1675), Les Anciens Canadiens is firmly planted in Québécois tradition. It’s not hard to fall for its charm, with its white-washed walls, red roof, and miniature stature. It’s a huge tourist destination. Servers are dressed in slightly unconvincing old-timey costumes, and the food on the menu is traditional Québécois—that is to say, plentiful and heavy. Despite the kitschy costumes and themed dining rooms, the food is excellent. If you want to discover everything about traditional regional cooking, try the Trapper’s Treat (meat pie with a pheasant and bison casserole) or the Québec Tasting Platter (meat pie with meatball and pig’s knuckle ragout and baked beans). As for dessert—well, you’d better like maple syrup.
MAP 1: 34 rue St-Louis, 418/692-1627, www.auxancienscanadiens.qc.ca; noon-9pm daily
Like many great restaurants in the city, the modern, airy Tournebroche Bistro Gourmet puts a heavy focus on honoring locally sourced ingredients in fresh, unpretentious cuisine. Emphasizing fish and seafood, Ocean Wise seals (indicating sustainable seafood) and gluten-free items are marked on the menu, allowing diners to make choices to suit their specific needs. Try the smoked salmon tataki (smoked salmon that has been quickly seared) or the house-fried fish with black currant mayo. Bonus: Dessert and coffee are included with the price of an entrée.
MAP 1: 1190 rue St-Jean, 418/692-5524, www.tournebroche.com; 11am-11pm Mon.-Sat., 5pm-11pm Sun.
Located in the historic Château Frontenac, Le Champlain has gorgeous views of the river and boasts a glass-roofed sun lounge. With patterned carpets, luxurious chandeliers, and rich wood paneling, the decor is traditionally elegant. Though new flavors have been added to the menu, it retains much of its original charm, including the century-old tradition of afternoon tea, which is served on Saturday afternoons. Chef Stéphane Modat, originally from southern France, rose to prominence in Québec as the cofounder of beloved restaurant l’Utopie (now closed) and star of the French cooking show Papilles. Reservations and smart casual attire are a must.
MAP 1: 1 rue des Carrières, 418/692-3861, www.restaurantchamplain.com; 24 hours daily
This spot on rue St-Jean is unlike any other dining experience in the city. Jean-Luc Boulay, chef and owner of Le Saint-Amour, teamed up with up-and-comer Arnaud Marchand to create a restaurant that’s centered on cooking and delicacies from the northern, or boreal, region of the province. The menu is chock-full of game and fish, with a focus on meats that are sustainable. Standout dishes include confit bison cheeks, confit goose legs, and seared black cod with shellfish mousse. The decor is sleek and black with lots of banquette seating and chic white walls in the open-concept dining room. Weather permitting, there’s also an outdoor patio. Stop in for a three-course lunch if you fancy experiencing the boreal flavors with a smaller price tag.
MAP 1: 1110 rue St-Jean, 418/380-8166, www.chezboulay.com; 11:30am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-10pm Sat.-Sun.
A cheerful and festive ambience oozes from this restaurant full of bon vivants. Located on a busy stretch of Old Québec, the casual dining room, decorated with checkered tablecloths and banquette seating, can be a bit cramped at times, with neighboring diners squished in beside each other. This is all part of the lively atmosphere, which in summer extends to a tiny sidewalk terrasse. Cuisine runs the gamut from bavette de cheval (horse flank) and osso bucco to thin-crust pizzas and mussels with fries.
MAP 1: 1129 rue St-Jean, 418/692-5445, http://restaurantlesfreresdelacote.com; 11:30am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 10:30am-10pm Sat.-Sun.
At one of the most renowned restaurants in Québec, award-winning chef Jean-Luc Boulay offers creative French-inspired dishes. Try the homemade terrine cooked sous vide, stuffed and roasted scallops from the Îles de la Madeleine, or the red deer seared and served with wild mustard seeds. Art nouveau touches can be found throughout the restaurant, framing the mirrors and illuminating the bar with a beautiful stained-glass mosaic. Watch the kitchen magic happen through the open kitchen design and sip a glass of red from their exquisite wine list, reputed to be one of the best in the country.
MAP 1: 48 rue Ste-Ursule, 418/694-0667, www.saint-amour.com; 5:30pm-10pm daily, 11:30am-1:30pm Mon.-Fri.
No matter the time of day, the line at this bustling crêperie is usually out the door. Luckily, it moves pretty fast and customers are soon seated in the banquettes that line the restaurant’s walls or at the bar with a full view of the action. Open since 1983, it can sometimes feel like an upper-class fast-food joint, in the swiftness of service and the way they churn out the crêpes. Choose from a list of suggestions—egg, bacon, mozzarella—or build your own with fillings like berries, chocolate, asparagus, and swiss cheese. While it’s not the best crêperie in the city (that honor probably goes to Café Bistro du Cap), it’s a good choice for a quick and inexpensive meal.
MAP 1: 1136 rue St-Jean, 418/692-0438, www.cassecrepebreton.com; 7am-10pm daily
Established in 1919, Café Buade is the oldest restaurant in the city. Not far from Château Frontenac and facing the Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Québec, it’s a popular place with both tourists and long-time regulars. Serving basic family restaurant fare like pasta, pizza, and prime rib, it may not be the best meal you’ll eat in the city but it won’t break the bank either. If you do find yourself intrigued by the homey and warm atmosphere, opt for a classic club sandwich or one of their generous breakfasts, available daily until noon.
MAP 1: 31 rue de Buade, 418/692-3909, www.cafebuade.ca; 7am-10pm daily May-Sept., 7am-9pm daily Oct.-Apr.
Located directly across from Place d’Youville, Apsara is a conveniently situated pan-Asian restaurant, the perfect spot to take a break from steak frites. Opened decades ago by Beng An Khuong and Kim Phean Tan after they left Cambodia during the Khmer Rouge era, this restaurant continues to be a family affair. The ambience is quiet and calm with impeccable service and traditional music playing in the background. Apsara specializes in Cambodian, Thai, and Vietnamese cuisine, and with five or six mains available from each region, deciding on a single dish can be tough. Those facing a bout of indecision should go for the one of the shared plates, featuring dishes from each country, including Khemara beef (flavored with Cambodian spices and peanuts) and shrimp d’Anam (breaded shrimp with Vietnamese sauce).
MAP 1: 71 rue d’Auteuil, 418/694-0232, www.restaurantapsara.com; 11:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-11pm Mon.-Fri., 5:30pm-11pm Sat.-Sun.
Bello Ristorante serves up fresh, handmade Italian food—everything from risotto and pasta to pizza, tartare, and fish—in a comfortable, professional atmosphere. The menu has something to suit most tastes, including vegetarian and gluten-free. They’ve also got a covered terrace with views of Vieux-Québec, so you can catch a summer breeze even if the weather isn’t quite pitch-perfect. Check them out at lunchtime to beat the crowds.
Casse-Crêpe Breton.
MAP 1: 73 rue St-Louis, 418/694-0030, www.belloristorante.com; 11:30am-11:30pm daily
The resolutely modern decor of this Italian-style restaurant is a breath of fresh air compared to many restaurants in Old Québec that stick to a more traditional look. The little brother of Le Continental, from which it took its name, Conti Caffe has an atmosphere that is younger, more relaxed, and more fun than that of its older counterpart. It serves Italian dishes like veal parmigiana and spaghetti carbonara, and specialties include lamb chops, filet mignon, and pan-fried sea scallops. Of course, the classic brick and stone walls still add an air of charm and romance, but the rich blue walls and contemporary furnishings are a vibrant touch.
MAP 1: 32 rue St-Louis, 418/692-4191, www.conticaffe.com; 11:30am-11pm daily
Waiters in white dinner jackets prepare mains tableside, making Le Continental the pinnacle of fine dining. Set in an elegant Victorian house, Le Continental is a traditional, rather formal restaurant known for impeccable service and unmatched cuisine. Blending Italian and French traditions, the restaurant is known for its flambé dishes, which include shrimp with whiskey, orange duckling, and flambé sirloin. Other classic dishes include braised veal sweetbreads and steamed snow crabs. Though there is no formal dress code, this is the time to break out your dinner jacket and dress shoes.
MAP 1: 26 rue St-Louis, 418/694-9995, www.restaurantlecontinental.com; 11:30am-10:30pm Mon.-Wed., 11:30am-11pm Thurs.-Fri., 5pm-11pm Sat., 5pm-10:30pm Sun.
With one of the most eye-catching terraces in the city—think overflowing flower pots and a view of Saint-Jean Gate—Il Teatro is a no-brainer when it comes to dining alfresco. It’s in the magnificent Le Capitole theater (hence the name), and the interior is modern and welcoming with brick walls, simple decoration, and huge windows that look onto Place d’Youville. Chef Serge Gagné, despite his not-too-Italian name, has been cooking some of the best Italian food in the city for the past two decades. The risotto al mascarpone and scaloppini del capo are among the best dishes. Cap the night off with a cappuccino, a slice of panforte, and a stroll around the city’s walls.
MAP 1: 972 rue St-Jean, 418/694-9996, www.lecapitole.com; 7am-11:30pm Mon.-Fri., 7am-2am Sat.-Sun.
Working with one fresh fish brought in daily, Masaru’s menu is unique. The chef uses that one fish to create three or more different dishes that are served to diners as a set. Not great for picky diners, Masaru—with its calm, white-washed interior—is nonetheless worth the dice roll for most. Reservations are recommended.
MAP 1: 46 rue Garneau, 581/741-3600, www.masarusushi.com; 11am-8pm Tues.-Fri.
Modern and open, the long communal tables of this pastry shop, bakery, and sandwicherie are cafeteria-like in style, but the tall ceilings and lots of light make it feel effortlessly spacious. In traditional New York style, you must line up to order, be it a fresh Paillard salad with walnuts, blue cheese, and pears or a frothy cappuccino and almond croissant. They’re known for their macarons, those sweet, one-bite-and-you’re-done cookies; they come in a rainbow of colors and flavors and rival any that you’d find in the tiny back lanes of Paris.
MAP 1: 1097 rue St-Jean, 418/692-1221, www.paillard.ca; 6:30am-10pm Mon.-Wed., 6:30am-11pm Thurs.-Fri., 7am-11pm Sat., 7am-10pm Sun.
Established in 1974, this two-story café on rue Couillard, a quaint and winding side street, has become an institution. A favorite with students and artists, it is frequented by locals who come here to grab a quiet coffee or light lunch, offering a nice alternative in the otherwise touristy and busy part of Old Québec. It’s simply decorated, with wood tables, brick walls, and work by local artists on the wall, and the food follows suit with homemade croissants, muffins, soups, salads, and quiches.
MAP 1: 25 rue Couillard, 418/694-1813; 11am-9:30pm daily
Just inside the city walls on a steep side street you’ll find Le Petit Coin Latin, one of the oldest cafés in Québec. Stone walls, a fireplace, and burgundy banquettes give it an intimate, homey atmosphere. Like its surroundings, the food is unpretentious and includes Québécois classics like tourtière au caribou (caribou pie) and tarte au sucre (sugar pie). It’s a popular place for breakfast and brunch, especially in the summer when the garden terrace is open out back; their plentiful omelets and pain doré (French toast) will leave you stuffed. In winter, order the hearty and warming raclette.
MAP 1: 8½ rue Ste-Ursule, 418/692-2022; 8am-11pm Mon.-Fri., 7:30am-11pm Sat.-Sun.
Started by three friends (hence the name, which means “Three Guys”) who wanted to create an eatery somewhere between Parisian bistro and New York diner, Les Trois Garçons serves gourmet burgers and the like. Located on a bustling strip of rue St-Jean, the restaurant has a pleasant sidewalk patio in the summer that’s almost always packed. Outfitted in red, white, and black, it has a slight 1950s diner feel thanks to the art deco metal railing on the second floor that lets you oversee the diners below. The crowd is in the know when it comes to food trends, and you’ll often see diners chowing down on a trio of mini burgers—the best way to taste them all.
Chez Ashton
Le Petit Coin Latin.
MAP 1: 1084 rue St-Jean, 418/692-3900, www.bistro3garcons.com; 7am-10pm Mon.-Wed., 7am-11pm Thurs.-Fri., 8am-11pm Sat., 8am-10pm Sun.
Sometimes you just need a simple breakfast at a place where you’ll be seated immediately. Café Bistro l’Omelette fills that need—unpretentious standard breakfast options at reasonable prices for the Upper Town. With its cluttered, haphazardly decorated dining room, it’s nothing to write home about—but the coffee’s half decent and the omelets will fuel a long morning of sightseeing.
MAP 1: 66 rue St-Louis, 418/694-9626; 7am-10pm daily
Founded in 1969 by Ashton Leblond, Chez Ashton is fast food à la québécoise. Sure you can get your burgers and fries, but Ashton prides itself on its poutine. It’s the single culinary achievement of the region (origins remain obscure and hotly debated), and Mr. Leblond helped popularize the combination of French fries, cheese curds, and brown gravy that has since gone on to conquer the rest of the province. Add shredded turkey and green peas onto the rest and you have a galvaude, a popular selection here. The decor is typical of fast-food chains—neon lights, vinyl banquettes, and a crowd of starving late-night revelers. You can find many Chez Ashton locations in the city, including one in Saint-Roch (830 blvd. Charest, 418/648-0891) and one near the Parliament (640 La Grande-Allée, 418/522-3449).
MAP 1: 54 Côte du Palais, 418/692-3055, www.chez-ashton.com; 11am-11:30pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-4am Fri.-Sat.
Le Monastère des Augustines is a nonprofit hotel converted from a monastery dating to the 18th century. Focused on wellness, its bright, open, modern restaurant is open to guests and the general public. Breakfast is healthy and hearty and eaten in silence, carrying on the tradition of the nuns, some of whom still reside in the building—though they take their meals elsewhere. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served buffet style with a serious emphasis on vegetarian and vegan fare, high in fiber and nutrients. Wine and beer are available at dinner, and teas and infusions are on the menu at every meal. If the restaurant schedule doesn’t work for you, stop by the hotel’s snack counter for a salad, rice bowl, or high-fiber muffin or granola bar.
MAP 1: 77 rue des Remparts, 418/694-8565, ext. 3333, www.monastere.ca/en/pages/restaurant; 7am-9:30am, noon-2pm, and 5:30pm-8pm daily; reservations necessary for dinner
| Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town | Map 2 (tap here) |
Set among the chichi bistros and idyllic antiques stores of rue St-Paul, the Buffet de l’Antiquaire is a no-frills diner. Established in 1975, it serves up breakfasts and traditional Québécois grub like ragoût de boulettes (meatballs, potatoes, and gravy), pâté à la viande (meat pie), and cipaille (game meat pie). Usually the busiest place on the block, it’s adored by locals and tourists alike for its old-time charm—diner stools, vinyl banquettes, and line cooks in full view. The all-day-long breakfast is served in heaping amounts and with their unforgettable homemade jam. In summer, tables and chairs are set up on the sidewalk outside for a makeshift patio.
MAP 2: 95 rue St-Paul, 418/692-2661, https://lebuffetdelantiquaire.com; 6am-11pm daily
Situated in the Auberge Saint-Antoine, this former 19th-century warehouse has been transformed into one of the most inviting dining rooms in the city, with exposed wood beams, stone walls, and original wood flooring. A wrought-iron staircase leads to a second dining level, with tables tucked away under the eaves for an intimate and romantic setting. Using local ingredients and taking much of his inspiration from the fresh produce available, chef Julien Ouellet creates farm-to-table dishes that cater to the season and the palate. Gaspésie lobster, veal sweetbreads, and local Québec cheese, however, can always be found on the menu. Reservations are recommended.
MAP 2: 10 rue St-Antoine, 418/692-1022, www.restaurantpanache.com; 6:30am-10:30am, noon-2pm, and 6pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., 7am-11am, 11:30am-2pm, and 6pm-10pm Sat.-Sun.
With a stainless-steel bar and tables covered with butcher paper, this Vieux-Québec bistro strikes the perfect balance of relaxed elegance. The focus is on organic and locally sourced food treated with different flavor profiles—think salmon tartare with ginger and curry, or grilled lamb with mint and red pepper purée—while the wine list is selected from a sustainable vineyard. The French bistro cuisine mixed with fusion flavors is perfect if you’re seeking something just off the beaten path—and the dessert menu is spot-on, so make sure to leave some room.
sidewalk dining at Buffet de l’Antiquaire
farm-to-table fare at Chez Muffy.
MAP 2: 73 rue du Sault-au-Matelot, 418/692-1299, www.echaude.com; 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm and 5:30pm-10pm Sat.-Sun.
At Laurie Raphaël it’s all about infusing the flavors and aromas of the region into the cuisine. The menu changes by season and is offered as a three-“theme” or five-“theme” table d’hôte. Example dishes include halibut ceviche, deer tataki, and ash-coated local cheese. The interior is luxurious and inviting thanks to the subtle color palette, with tones of grays and sand; floor-to-ceiling windows open onto the dining room, but gauzy, sheer curtains afford the perfect balance of privacy and light. Reservations are a must. (If you’re heading to Montréal, visit their sister location!)
MAP 2: 117 rue Dalhousie, 418/692-4555, www.laurieraphael.com; 5:30pm-9pm Wed.-Sat., 11:30am-2pm Thurs.-Fri.
Named one of Canada’s best new restaurants in 2014, Légende promises cuisine that will “stimulate all of your senses” in a high-ceiling, cozy yet contemporary atmosphere. Following culinary trends, dishes are meant to draw from history and terroir to weave a story. Small plates are tailored for tasting and experimentation, and a tasting menu will set you back $79. The menu changes based on seasonal availability, but staple proteins include scallops, duck, and foie gras.
MAP 2: 255 rue St-Paul, 418/614-2555, www.restaurantlegende.com; 5:30pm-10pm Wed.-Sun.
From the people who brought you Toast!, SSS (Simple, Snack, Sympathique) is more relaxed and hipper (not counting the name) than its progenitor. Drawing a young, fashionable crowd, it has two different rooms: a small bar lounge with high tables, red accents, and lips on the wallpaper, and an adult dining room with stone walls, black-lacquered floors, and crisp white tablecloths. The main menu is French-influenced and heavy on the meat, with dishes like ribs, crab, and Cornish hen. The relaxed atmosphere, along with good veggie and gluten-free options, makes it a great choice for an evening cocktail or late dinner.
MAP 2: 71 rue St-Paul, 418/692-1991, www.restaurantsss.com; 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-10:30pm Mon.-Fri., 5pm-10:30pm Sat.-Sun.
Located in the heart of the Vieux-Port in the Priori hotel, Toast! offers modern cuisine in a picturesque setting. The atmosphere is hip, with warm, orange-hued lighting illuminating the 200-year-old stone walls. Using French and Italian influences, dishes include Jerusalem artichoke vichyssoise, surf and turf, and homemade ravioli. For dessert, they offer a selection of cheeses, including Québec cheese plates, black forest parfait, and citrus sorbet made with in-season fruits. In the summer, a large terrace is open out back, drawing everyone from young families to passing tourists and young professionals.
MAP 2: 17 rue du Sault-au-Matelot, 418/692-1334, www.restauranttoast.com; 6pm-10:30pm Sun.-Thurs., 6pm-11pm Fri.-Sat.
Café du Monde is in the Vieux-Port on a quay that juts out into the river. Aiming to bring a little Parisian Rive-Gauche to Québec, the interior is precisely decorated with black and white checkered tiles, walls of wine, and even black-apron-clad servers to really give diners that Parisian feel. Though the atmosphere isn’t entirely convincing—since when is the Rive-Gauche surrounded by grain silos and shipping relics?—the food, with options like mussels, salmon tartare, and duck legs confit, transports you across the Atlantic in no time.
MAP 2: 84 rue Dalhousie, 418/692-4448, www.lecafedumonde.com; 11:30am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-10pm Sat.
Charming and perfectly French, this café, run by two chefs—one Québécois, one from France—offers bistro classics like steak frites, homemade duck confit, and mussels, all perfectly seasoned and cooked. Create your own table d’hôte by adding soup, coffee, and dessert to a main dish for an additional $12. The ambience is cozy in the winter—there’s a fireplace—and airy in the summer. Pull up a seat on the small terrasse if you’d like some sun and people-watching.
MAP 2: 75 rue St-Paul, 418/692-2004, www.lecafesaintmalo.com; 11:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-10pm daily
A new iteration of old favorite le Quai 19, Chex Rioux et Pettigrew is in a rustic location meant to recall a turn-of-the-20th-century general store: exposed brick walls, fireplace, wooden boxes, old bottles, rice sacks. Chef Dominic Jacques comes to the restaurant with more than 10 years of experience in high-end Québec cuisine, aiming to provide both technical rigor and creativity in his dishes, which run the gamut from house-smoked gravlax to pot-au-feu made with braised Prince Edward Island beef.
MAP 2: 160 rue St-Paul, 418/694-4448, www.chezriouxetpettigrew.com; 11:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., 9:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-10pm Sat.-Sun.
Started in 1979, French bistro Le Cochon Dingue (The Crazy Pig) has become one of the most popular restaurants in the city. Famous for mussels, steak frites, and pork filet mignon, they also serve breakfast and lunch, with daily specials. Though they’ve since opened other outlets, including one near rue Cartier (46 blvd. René-Lévesque, 418/523-2013), the original establishment is still the most charming, with brick walls, sharp white tablecloths, and bistro chairs. It’s both elegant and relaxed. In summer, their sidewalk terrasse takes up almost the entire street, with Le Petit Cochon Dingue at number 24, serving coffees and sweets.
MAP 2: 46 blvd. Champlain, 418/694-0303, www.cochondingue.com; 7am-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-11pm Fri., 8am-11pm Sat., 8am-10pm Sun.
Run by the same people who own Le Cochon Dingue, Lapin Sauté (Jumping Rabbit) is more laid-back and romantic than its bustling neighbor. Located in a turn-of-the-20th-century home, the small dining room—it seats 32—has a rustic feel with a low wood ceiling and a stone fireplace. The food is rustic as well, specializing in country-style cuisine. Their specialty is rabbit, served in a pie, a cassoulet, or roasted with maple and raspberry sauce. They also have (limited) vegetarian options, an affordable lunch menu, and a leafy terrasse perfect for people-watching.
MAP 2: 52 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-5325, www.lapinsaute.com; 11am-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11am-10:30pm Fri., 9am-10:30pm Sat., 9am-10pm Sun.
One of the most renowned restaurants in the city, this is a must for those who enjoy haute cuisine and is frequented by foodies from the world over. There is no set menu but various tasting menus that change with the seasons and the local products available. Known for his innovative dishes, head chef Yvan Lebrun marries unlikely flavors, such as suckling pig with squash, and crispy sweetbreads with mustard kidneys. Housed in a century-old building, the interior of l’Initiale is distinctly modern with a sleek comfortable design. The entire restaurant follows a beige and cream color scheme and this subtly works in achieving a rich atmosphere.
MAP 2: 54 rue St-Pierre, 418/694-1818, www.restaurantinitiale.com; 11:30am-1:30pm and 5:30pm-9pm Tues.-Fri., 5:30pm-9pm Sat.
On a narrow cobblestone street backing onto the sheer cliff face, Café Bistro du Cap is in a gem of a spot, with a small terrasse out front and a modest, no-frills interior. The entire atmosphere is unpretentious and intimate. This is a small operation run by a couple; he runs the kitchen while she runs the front of the house, so selection isn’t huge and is often determined by availability. Praised by both locals and tourists, their menu includes items like pan-fried salmon, lamb shank, and chowder. They are especially known for their crêpes. Savory or sweet, the crêpes are some of the best in the city, perfect for a midafternoon snack.
MAP 2: 67 rue du Sault-au-Matelot, 418/692-1326; 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-9:30pm Tues.-Sun.
The delicious thin and crispy crust may be the trademark of this pizza joint, but the secret of their success is their ingredients. Fresh vegetables from the Marché du Vieux-Port and imported French cheese are mixed to produce unique flavor combinations, like tomato, bacon, egg, and Emmenthal or tomato, crème fraîche, leeks, scallops, and Emmenthal. The restaurant has a homey feel with bistro chairs and red banquettes; its location makes it a default tourist destination.
MAP 2: 3 Place Royale, 418/692-3003, www.la-pizz.com; 11am-11pm daily
Located in the heart of Place Royale, Café La Maison Smith serves up coffee, baked goods, and sandwiches in what they rightly describe as a “poetic” atmosphere—warm lighting, the smell of freshly baked bread, a patio that recalls Paris at the height of the Belle Époque. The café is bustling in the summertime; you may need to jostle for an outdoor spot, but the effort is worth it to enjoy a light breakfast or lunch at the site of the founding of the city.
MAP 2: 23 rue Notre-Dame, 581/742-6777, www.lamaisonsmith.com; 7am-9pm daily
Over 40 kinds of coffee, some from as far as India and Japan, line the walls of this Vieux-Port café. Dedicated to the art of coffee and coffee-making, this popular neighborhood café, full of locals and browsing tourists, was originally a store selling espresso makers and other coffee accessories and making some allongée (long espresso) on the side. It only became a full-fledged café when they decided to make sandwiches and snacks for the customers who were spending more and more time hanging out and sampling their coffee. A small but lively place, it’s usually packed with regulars. Besides coffee, they offer sandwiches, salads, soups, and pastries, as well as a selection of teas.
MAP 2: 143 rue St-Paul, 418/692-1147; 6:30am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-6pm Sat.-Sun.
| Parliament Hill and the Plains | Map 3 (tap here) |
Bistro B’s large picture windows overlook avenue Cartier and the sleek yet overstuffed sofas of the restaurant’s outdoor lounge area come summer. Opened in 2012, it’s a great place to grab a fancy cocktail—they regularly post their latest creations on a chalkboard in the window to entice passersby—or a casual yet sophisticated meal. The interior is large and spacious, with the high wooden chairs and tables populating the open-concept restaurant. Even the kitchen is open for all to see, with the stools along the chef’s counter being the most sought after in the place. The menu, hand-written daily above the kitchen, features everything from veal in truffle oil to arugula risotto and Caesar salad with blood sausage and a poached egg.
MAP 3: 1144 ave. Cartier, 418/614-5444, www.bistrob.ca; 11:30am-2pm and 6pm-11pm Mon.-Fri., 6pm-11pm Sat., 10am-2pm and 6pm-11pm Sun.
No matter the time of day, this place is always packed with both locals and tourists. Named after a famous early-Canadian painter who lived in the area, Café Krieghoff serves everything from your basic breakfast (eggs, toast, potatoes) to bistro-style dinners (quiche lorraine, grilled salmon). Neither the food nor the coffee is out of this world, and, beyond the hustle and bustle, the ambience is lacking, but the prime real estate (on the popular avenue Cartier close to the Plains of Abraham and Musée National des Beaux-Arts) and the large front and back terraces keep customers coming back. They also have a cozy seven-room B&B, which occupies the top two stories.
MAP 3: 1091 ave. Cartier, 418/522-3711, www.cafekrieghoff.qc.ca; 7am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-10pm Sat.-Sun.
This chic and modern restaurant—exposed brick, soft lighting, modern furnishings—serves dishes influenced by both Italian and French traditions. Chef Robert Saulnier is known for his personal touch, which includes creations like veal sweetbread in pastry with candied apples, and roast rack of lamb with sun-dried tomato risotto. Located in the food emporium Les Halles Cartier, it’s popular with neighborhood locals and especially young couples and groups of friends in their late twenties, early thirties. On Sunday, they serve a decadent brunch; pop in for the poached eggs and blintzes.
MAP 3: 1191 ave. Cartier, 418/529-4949; 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-11pm Mon.-Fri., 5pm-11pm Sat., 9am-2:30pm and 5pm-11pm Sun.
One of the first things you notice when you enter the Musée National des Beaux-Arts is the restaurant, just off the entrance hall. The clink of glasses and plates and wafting aromas immediately grab your attention (especially if you’re hungry). Featuring regional cuisine and local, organic produce, mains include pork breast, halibut, and stuffed portobello mushrooms. The atmosphere inside is fairly subdued, with sparsely designed chairs and simple white tablecloths. During the summer, however, the terrasse out back has a stunning view of both the St. Lawrence and the Plains, making it a perfect spot for lunch.
MAP 3: Parc des Champs-de-Bataille, 418/644-6780, www.signemclepage.com; 10am-5pm daily
On the second floor of an ivy-covered building on René-Lévesque, a little off the beaten path, you’ll find Les Délices d’Ariana, an Afghani and Indian restaurant serving curries, freshly made naan, and tandoori chicken. Service can be slow but it’s happily a bring-your-own-wine outfit; arm yourself with a bottle or two and tuck in for a good night of food and conversation with a date or friends. Great choices are available for vegans, vegetarians, and gluten-free diners.
MAP 3: 102 blvd. René-Lévesque, 418/948-8680; 5pm-11pm daily, 11am-2pm Tues.-Fri.
This pizza joint’s reputation as one of the best in Québec City has been cemented since its opening in 1968, thanks to the neighborhood regulars who drop in at least once a week. It’s always fresh and delicious, they offer a kid-friendly menu, and the unpretentious attitude keeps bringing people back. Just off avenue Cartier, it’s the perfect place for a filling, no-fuss family meal.
MAP 3: 194 rue Crémazie W., 418/529-2919, www.restomilano.ca; 11:30am-10pm Mon.-Wed., 11:30am-11pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-11pm Sat., 10am-10pm Sun.
Part specialty store, part casual restaurant, Morena is your go-to place for delicious Italian staples. Whether it’s a creamy latte to go, fresh homemade linguine ready to be thrown in the pot, or a can of San Marzano tomatoes, this place has you covered. There are only about six tables in the store and they’re nearly always filled with neighborhood locals who pop in for a quick bite of the lasagna Bolognese or eggplant Parmesan. A great place to grab lunch or dinner, it’s also a popular spot for brunch on the weekends, serving everything from two eggs the way you like them to baked eggs in tomato sauce.
MAP 3: 1040 ave. Cartier, 418/529-3668, www.morena-food.com; 8am-7pm Mon.-Wed., 8am-8pm Thurs.-Fri., 8am-6pm Sat., 9am-6pm Sun.
On the higher end of the price scale, Enzo offers sushi à la carte or as part of a tasting menu. The fish is impeccable, and they also make a range of teriyakis as well as some dishes slightly off the beaten path, like beef sashimi and sake scallops. The atmosphere is formal and calming, with lots of wooden accents—it’s the perfect place for date night.
MAP 3: 150 blvd. René-Lévesque, 418/649-1688, www.sushi-enzo.com; 11am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11am-2pm and 5pm-11pm Fri., 5pm-11pm Sat., 5pm-10pm Sun.
This upscale sushi spot is a bit tough to order at—more items appear on the order sheet than on the truncated menu, which prioritizes larger rolls and chef’s specials—but once you figure it out the options are more than plentiful. The large dining room is split into two main areas, both painted white with dark wood accents. The service is friendly, the fish is fresh, and the chopsticks arrive in a cute folded-paper fish head.
MAP 3: 1188 ave. Cartier, 418/649-1096, www.eddiesushi.com; 4:30pm-10:30pm Mon.-Fri., 5pm-11:30pm Sat., 5pm-10:30pm Sun.
Affordable and delicious, Bachir serves shish taouk (marinated chicken kebabs), shawarma, falafel, and other hearty dishes. Vegetarians will appreciate their lightly fried, moist falafels and rich, garlicky hummus. They also have a children’s menu—smaller plates for $8 for those under eight. Ambience-wise, it’s down a flight of stairs and feels more like a lunch counter than a restaurant—so, good for a casual lunch or dinner, but perhaps not a pre-opera date.
MAP 3: 54 blvd. René-Lévesque, 418/523-8383, www.resto-bachir.com; 11am-3pm Mon., 11am-7pm Tues., 11am-8pm Wed.-Fri., 11am-3pm Sat.
Bügel Fabrique des Bagels makes the best Montréal-style bagels in Québec City—wood fired and smothered in sesame seeds. The small neighborhood staple is decorated with old church pews, and lively patrons give it a homey, comfy atmosphere. In the summer the tiny outdoor patio is the perfect place to chow down on one of their breakfast bagels, like le poussin, a bagel with an egg (served daily until 2pm), or dig in to one of their sandwich creations with smoked chicken and curried mayonnaise. Vegetarian meals are served, as well as soups, salads, and desserts.
MAP 3: 164 rue Crémazie W., 418/523-7666; 7am-8pm Sat.-Wed., 7am-9pm Thurs.-Fri.
This great sandwicherie, in Les Halles Cartier on the upscale rue Cartier, has been turning sandwich making into an art since 2008. This take-away counter caters to workers on lunch or locals needing a quick bite. Creative sandwiches with a unique blend of ingredients include the baguette with duck, port, and blueberries and the prosciutto with two pestos. If you’re looking for something more substantial try the boîte-à-lunch (lunch box), which comes with salad, dessert, and a drink. Close to the Plains of Abraham, it’s a great place to pick up a last-minute picnic.
MAP 3: 1191 ave. Cartier (Halles Cartier), 418/948-3773, www.sandwicheriefastoche.com; 9am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-6pm Sat.
This ice cream shop, tucked into a nook behind avenue Cartier, is one of the best in the city, and locals flock here from all over the city just for a scoop. It has just a slim, long hallway and a walk-up window, so customers savor their treats on the sunny terrace. Across the street, a statue by a local artist also attracts some ice cream eaters. Sundaes, sorbets, frozen yogurts, and milkshakes are all made here, but the place is especially known for its soft-serve ice cream coated with Belgian chocolate and a trickle of maple syrup.
MAP 3: 90 rue Aberdeen, 418/648-6366; 10am-9pm daily mid-Apr.-mid-Sept.
The calm, relaxing interior of this teahouse makes up for its plain exterior on the busy and less than picturesque boulevard René-Lévesque. The vibe is more relaxed than British afternoon tea, and the friendly atmosphere makes it popular with local residents and students. More than 150 teas from China, Japan, India, and Africa are available. Detox Tuesdays are popular with regulars, as are the infusion blends, which they roast and blend on the spot.
MAP 3: 67 blvd. René-Lévesque E., 418/523-0808, www.sebz.ca; 10am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
Café Krieghoff
Le Moine Échanson.
| Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch | Map 4 (tap here) |
This bar-cum-bistro has it all: great beers on tap, a super-friendly staff and ambience, and delicious food cooked well and presented professionally. The chalkboard menu is generally written only in French, but staff is more than happy to translate and recommend daily dishes. Located downstairs in a cozy spot with low ceilings, Buvette Scott is popular with locals and great for some respite from summer tourist traffic. Oh, and the music selection—they’re usually spinning records—is pretty great, too.
MAP 4: 821 rue Scott, 581/741-4464, www.buvettescott.com; 4:30pm-11pm Mon.-Sat.
The ambition of this self-proclaimed burger gourmet is to make a hamburger a “piece of art.” And so far, everybody in Québec—artist or not—would agree that they make the best burgers in town. The salmon burger, duck burger, and cheese curd-topped burger are interesting takes on the old standard. Vegetarians get choices as well, with tofu, nut and spinach, and legume burgers available. Every burger comes paired with an on-point beer recommendation. The success led them to open new restaurants, including one in the Vieux-Port (300 rue St-Paul, 418/781-2511), but the one on St-Jean remains the best and definitely worth the walk, with its stone walls, low ceiling, and casual atmosphere.
MAP 4: 145 rue St-Jean, 418/529-7702, www.chezvictorburger.com/st-jean; 11:30am-9pm Sun.-Tues., 11:30am-9:30pm Wed., 11:30am-10pm Thurs.-Sat.
Le Comptoir (The Counter) serves up satisfying comfort food in a comfortable setting. On rue St-Jean, this cute restaurant—it’s all red and white banquettes, and bar stools line the windows—offers two stories of cozy charm. Most of the clientele can be placed in three categories: locals, journalists (the offices of the Francophone version of Canada’s national broadcasting network are just across the street), and families (what kid will say no to a burger?). The menu, too, aims to please. They have two specialties, the very British fish-and-chips and smoked meat. The fish is as fresh as anything you’d find on the coast of Maine, while the smoked meat is as good as any you’d find in Montréal. Their burgers and club sandwiches hit the spot too.
MAP 4: 849 rue St-Jean, 418/614-5522, www.restaurantlecomptoir.ca/home.html; 11am-8:30pm Sun.-Wed., 11am-9pm Thurs., 11am-10pm Fri.-Sat.
Open till at least 4am every day, this snack bar is all about being here for you when that craving for grilled cheese hits. This modern diner is nicely, if not overly, decorated with low sturdy wooden tables and chairs that can stand up to a lot of abuse. There’s even a backyard patio come summer, the perfect place to kick back with your enormous and ingenious poutine club (a club sandwich dumped on a pile of fries and covered in gravy, essentially). Everything is over the top and that’s part of the charm. Come for the mac-and-cheese burger, featuring fried mac-and-cheese incorporated into a cheeseburger, and stay for the bacon tarte au sucre (sugar pie).
MAP 4: 780 rue St-Jean, 418/522-4727, www.snackbarsaintjean.com; 11am-4am Sun.-Thurs., 11am-5am Fri.-Sat.
Run by two young entrepreneurs, Olivier Lescelleur St-Cyr and François Jobin, this restaurant is fresh and contemporary and down-to-earth—no need to wear a button-down, though you can if you like. Food tends toward the French (but often includes items like dumplings or panini), favoring seasonal, local ingredients with the addition of seafood, like giant sea urchins and Alaskan crab, sourced from western and northern Canada. On the petite side, L’Affaire Est Ketchup seats about 20 diners at a time—so reservations for one of their two seatings, at 6pm or 8:30pm, are a must.
MAP 4: 46 rue St-Joseph E., 418/529-9020; 6pm-10:30pm Tues.-Sun.
Situated in what was once the local general store, this café and restaurant is a local favorite. It’s not hard to imagine a shopkeeper behind the dark, heavy bar, or to think of the long bay windows, now comfortable banquettes, as filled with stuff for sale. The relaxed, sometimes boisterous atmosphere is laid-back and inviting. Artifacts line the shelves, the menu is written on the mirror behind the bar, and old photos hang on the walls. The burgers are some of the best. Their weekend brunch is always hearty, but refined. A small terrasse on the side is a great spot in the summer.
MAP 4: 298 rue St-Jean, 418/647-3031, www.aubonnetdane.com; 8am-10pm Sun.-Wed., 8am-11pm Thurs.-Sat.
Defying all conventions, Le Cercle is a restaurant, a bar, a café, and a performance venue. With its concrete floors, light wood interior, and floor-to-ceiling windows, it is one of the city’s coolest restaurants. Serving both tapas-style munchies (try the fried cauliflower and rice balls) and mains (bouillabaisse and cheddar fondue), it offers classic and more experimental fare with a heavy emphasis on local, farm-fresh ingredients. It may not be surprising to learn that they serve up some of the most sought-after cocktails (at brunch you can order an entire carafe of mimosas), but one surprising twist about Le Cercle is the wine cellar. They blend in so well, you barely even notice the $1,600 bottles of Château Pètrus stacked up against the wall.
MAP 4: 228 rue St-Joseph E., 418/948-8648, www.le-cercle.ca; 4pm-11:30pm Tues.-Wed., 4pm-3am Thurs.-Sat.
If you ask Québec City residents what their favorite restaurant is, or at least which one gives you the best bang for your buck, they’ll tell you Le Clocher Penché. It’s set in an old bank, and the washrooms are where the big safe used to be. The ever-changing menu includes dishes like salmon tartare, seal tataki, and homemade black pudding—always making sure to include vegetarian options, as well. They use all local, fresh products. It’s called Clocher Penché (Leaning Belfry) because the church next door has a slanted bell tower. Large windows open onto the street in summertime and give the dining room lots of light no matter the time of year. The light wood chairs and tables give the whole atmosphere a delightful airiness. Reservations are recommended.
MAP 4: 203 rue St-Joseph E., 418/640-0597, www.clocherpenche.ca; 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Tues.-Fri., 9am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Sat., 9am-2pm Sun.
Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Le Hobbit is a classic French spot featuring an exposed stone wall and simple decorations, modeled in the style of J. R. R. Tolkien’s best-selling novella. The breakfast and weekend brunch menus are standard; lunch and dinner menus vary. For something slightly different, try the elk steak (depending on availability); you can’t go wrong with the French onion soup. Though the food is French bistro, the atmosphere is a bit more casual—a great place to stop in if you find yourself peckish after a day of hoofing it around the city.
MAP 4: 700 rue St-Jean, 418/647-2677, www.hobbitbistro.com; 8am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-10pm Sat.-Sun.
First the translation—échanson means “cup-bearer,” an officer whose duty was to serve the drinks at a royal table. Moine means “monk.” The concept at this bistro à vin is to discover a new wine region of France every time you visit. The menu, using Québécois and French products, varies according to season and climate. For example, you’ll be in Savoy and Alsace in winter, the Mediterranean in summer (including Greece, Portugal, and Spain), and Québec in fall. It’s small and cozy with wood tables, a chalkboard menu, and lots of natural light; the ambience transports you to France without crossing the Atlantic. In summer, prime tables are available outside to let you appreciate the vibe of Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste. It can get packed, so reservations are a good idea.
MAP 4: 585 rue St-Jean, 418/524-7832, www.lemoineechanson.com; 4pm-10pm Tues.-Wed. and Sun., 4pm-11pm Thurs.-Sat.
Poutine—piping-hot, crispy French fries covered with fresh cheese curds and smothered in gravy—is the unofficial food of Québec.
It can be found on menus throughout the province, from upscale restaurants (where it’s likely served with foie gras) to fast-food places. Despite the dish’s popularity, its origins remain hotly debated, with a number of greasy spoon owners declaring themselves the true inventor.
Whether the first poutine was created in the town of Drummondville or Warwick, no one will ever know for sure. But one part of the origin story remains the same: The invention of poutine hinges on customers adding fresh cheese curds to their fries.
Cheese is one of the province’s biggest industries, and because of this fresh cheese curds are found in greasy spoons and corner grocery stores all over the province. The curds have a slightly rubbery texture and a mild but salty taste. You can tell whether the cheese is fresh or not by the sound of the squeak it makes when chewed—the squeakier, the fresher.
Since the fries and cheese together taste a little dry, gravy is added to the mix—enough so that you taste it, but not so much that it looks like a stew. The gravy also helps melt the cheese and turn the whole thing into a glorious mess.
Poutine is popular across Québec City, especially in the winter. The fast-food joint Chez Ashton (click here), credited with helping to popularize the dish, has a number of locations in the city, including one in Upper Town and one in Saint-Roch. You can find a poutine club at Snack Bar Saint-Jean (click here) and an Irish version made with whiskey at Pub Galway (click here). You really can’t go wrong ordering poutine in Québec City—even McDonald’s carries it here.
This is the most authentic crêperie in Québec City—some even say it’s better than the ones found in France. It was founded by a true Breton; savory crêpes made of organic buckwheat flour and sweet crêpes made of wheat flour are both available. First-timers should try the classic crêpe Suzette, flambéed with Grand Marnier. Don’t forget to wash your sweet or savory crêpe down with a cider. The lively and boisterous ambience is palpable since the place is always full of locals packed into the seven tables or taking up the one or two outside tables in the summer. Reservations are a must.
MAP 4: 526 rue St-Jean, 418/524-8341; 11am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-10pm Sat.-Sun.
Specializing in pub grub, Le Bureau de Poste offers a flat $4.95 food menu. Chicken tenders? $4.95. Pierogies? $4.95. Poutine? $4.95. The servings are a bit on the smaller side, so if you’re starving, it might be best to order some extra to share. The music is loud, the drinks are good, the crowd skews young. It’s great for a night on the town or as a spot for a late-night weekday snack after hitting up an event or show. Leave room to share the donuts.
MAP 4: 296 St-Joseph E., 418/914-6161, www.lebureaudeposte.com; 11am-3am daily
Part bubble tea shop, part takeout counter, part sit-down restaurant, Sushi To Go can be slightly confusing at first—but the rolls are good and the milk tea is great. The restaurant itself is light and bright, with lots of space between tables, and the staff is generally young and friendly, happy to chat during non-rush periods—you just might pick up a few tips about what to see and do while you’re in town.
MAP 4: 679 rue St-Jean, 418/781-0974; 11am-8pm Mon.-Wed., 11am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., noon-8pm Sat.-Sun.
Inspired by the izakaya (Japanese pub) concept, Tora-Ya Ramen is meant to be enjoyed with friends—small, plenteous bites, washed down with a beer or light, inventive cocktails, including a handful of better-than-usual non-alcoholic options. Hot and cold, safe and more experimental, Tora-Ya will appeal to vegetarians and picky eaters as well as those looking to experiment with more complex flavors. The space—dark wood and red walls meet diner—is usually packed with locals, so err on the early side of their lunch or dinner service to beat the crowds, or come ready to spend a bit of time in line.
MAP 4: 75 rue St-Joseph E., 418/780-1903, www.tora-yaramen.com; 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Tues.-Fri., 5pm-10pm Sat.
This sushi bar is named after a small Japanese citrus fruit whose delicate grapefruit-meets-mandarin flavor is often found in fusion cooking. There could be no better symbol for what Yuzu does: blend traditional Japanese with North American flavors. With franchise locations across the province, Yuzu’s menu is expansive and has something for everyone. They’re on the poke bandwagon, for example, but you can still find North American sushi standards like avocado and spicy tuna rolls. The interior is modern and clean, and service is friendly and quick—perfect for lunch or a quick dinner before a night on the town.
MAP 4: 795 rue St-Joseph E., 418/614-6237, www.yuzu.ca; 11am-8pm daily
If you’re craving lamb and couscous, this Moroccan-focused resto—lovingly referred to more than once as a “hole-in-the-wall” in online reviews—is the place to go. Order a combo meal and try a bit of everything. Service is fast and friendly, and the prices are quite reasonable. Make sure to finish your meal with some digestive mint tea—you’ll need it after all that lamb.
MAP 4: 847 rue St-Jean, 418/263-2977, www.saveurs-du-monde.ca; 11am-9:15pm daily
This is one of the best cafés in the city, and the line starts early in the morning when regulars pop in to get their usual before heading off to work. Ideally located on a corner lot, it has two walls of picture windows with bars and seats along both that are usually occupied. If it’s not too packed, try to grab a seat on the tiny second-floor mezzanine that looks out over the action. Front and center when you enter is the gleaming Nuova Simonelli (the espresso machine), backed by a wall of coffee beans ready to be ground. The lattes are outstanding—it’s all in the foam—and the sandwiches and pastries are mouthwatering. There are now five other locations around the city, including on rue St-Jean (881 rue St-Jean, 418/704-4420).
MAP 4: 375 rue St-Joseph E., 418/529-1559, www.brulerie-st-roch.com; 6:30am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 6:30am-11pm Fri.-Sat.
A bookshop and café in one, Librairie St-Jean-Baptiste is a cultural and literary hub for the neighborhood. Situated in a building that dates from the early 1900s, the bookstore, dealing in mostly used books, has become a meeting point for local artists and students. There’s also a small café, where you’re invited to while away the afternoon in this inviting and relaxed atmosphere. Snacks, including sandwiches, soup, and grilled cheese, are also available.
MAP 4: 565 rue St-Jean, 581/999-0951; noon-6pm daily
At Nektar, coffee is an art. Expert baristas will explain the ins and outs of a good cup of joe to you, all in a thinly veiled attempt to lure you into tasting their grands crus, the latest vintage of coffee. If they succeed in getting you to taste the Nektar, you’ll have a hard time going back to your Starbucks Breakfast Blend. Their pastries come from well-loved Québec bakery Première Moisson and include cinnamon brioche, croissants, and date squares. In the summertime, their homemade iced tea is a must-try. In winter, Nektar’s chocolate brown walls give the place a cozy feel; in summer, though, the interior feels just a bit too dark—taking your coffee outside to enjoy the sunshine might be a better bet.
MAP 4: 235 rue St-Joseph E., 418/977-9236, www.nektarcafeologue.com; 7am-11pm Mon.-Wed., 7am-midnight Thurs.-Fri., 8:30am-midnight Sat., 9:30am-9pm Sun.
This artisanal bakery has freshly baked bread all day long, and the smell lures in just about anyone who passes by. The pastries are also awesome, from the croissants to the pains aux chocolates to the brioche. They also serve sandwiches—try the tomato, mozzarella, and basil—delicious soups spiced with curry, and great salads. Though the interior is nothing fancy, it does have a few nondescript chairs and tables where locals and weary tourists recharge with a coffee and a treat. If you’re slightly farther out, they also have locations in Sainte-Foy and Limoilou.
MAP 4: 289 rue St-Joseph E., 418/647-3666, www.boiteapain.com; 6:30am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 6:30am-5:30pm Sun.
Run by French master baker Patrice Soulabaille, this bakery serves melt-in-your-mouth croissants, pitch-perfect breads, and homemade soups, sandwiches, and quiches. A local favorite, it’s an ideal spot for lunch (at one of their half dozen indoor tables or to go). For dessert, try the macarons or homemade ice cream.
MAP 4: 225 rue St-Joseph E., 418/523-9009, www.lecroquembouche.com; 7am-6:30pm Tues.-Sun.
This self-proclaimed “boulangerie artisanale et creative” makes its breads and pastries by hand and with some of the healthiest ingredients. All breads are made using sourdough, but a variety of flours and ingredients are added according to the season. The results: multi-grain bread, cheese bread, bread with nuts. They even have a bread with chocolate and dried pears. The ambience is all business, with a simple counter and not much else. This is a take-away place, so you can feel French and eat your baguette as you stroll the street.
MAP 4: 578 rue St-Jean, 418/522-7246; 7:30am-5:30pm Tues.-Sat.
Opened in 1998 by Italian immigrant Giacomo Donati, this gelateria is the real deal. All the gelato is homemade, and there’s always a different flavor to try, including green tea, mascarpone and nutella, sabayon with Marsala, pine nut, and all the classics. Modern and sleek, this slim take-away counter also has cakes, biscuits, and coffees.
MAP 4: 716 rue St-Jean, 418/522-0896, www.tuttogelato.ca; 10:30am-8pm or midnight daily (depending on the weather) late Apr.-early Oct.
Québec City deserves its own branch of this great Montréal-based teahouse, and it’s no surprise to find it on St-Joseph. Tea tasters travel the world to find the best and rarest of teas. More than 180 fresh teas are kept in store, and they come from as far way as Japan, India, China, and Taiwan. This small store is set up like an old sweet shop with a counter, and the soft green walls are filled with silver tea tins. The shelves in heavy dark wood give it a feel of gravitas. Tea being a serious business for them, the owners organize tea-centered activities, including tastings and workshops.
MAP 4: 624 rue St-Joseph E., 418/525-0247, www.camellia-sinensis.com; 10am-6pm Sat.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri.
