YOU CAN GRILL WHAT?

Everything is fair game when it comes to barbecue. So here are some foods you may never have dreamed you could grill. Or may never have dreamed existed, for that matter. Seaweed, rumaki (made with watermelon rind and bacon), eggs or biscuits in hollowed-out orange rinds—each meets fire here. And I revisit grilled cheese, the all-American favorite, moving it from the lunch counter griddle to the flame-kissed grate of a barbecue grill. I’ve always believed if you can cook something on the stove or in the oven, it’s probably even better on the grill. Here’s proof.

DIRECT GRILLING
SESAME-GRILLED NORI

Seaweed as a snack? Kim goo ee—paper-thin sheets of nori crisped over an open flame—is popular in Korea. I first tasted it in Cambridge, Massachusetts, in the 1970s, prepared by my Korean friend Sekyo Nam, and I recently rediscovered it in Korea Town in Los Angeles. Nori is the black seaweed used for wrapping sushi, and it’s harvested off the coast of Maine. Brushed with sesame oil, sprinkled with salt, and toasted crackling crisp over open flames, it’s j delicious.

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12 sheets nori

1 tablespoon Asian (dark) sesame oil

Coarse salt (kosher or sea)

1. Set up the grill for direct grilling (see page 8 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to high. Lightly brush each sheet of nori on both sides with some of the sesame oil and sprinkle each with salt.

2. When ready to cook, using tongs, lay the nori on the hot grate and grill until it becomes toasted and crinkled, 20 to 40 seconds per side. Do not let it burn. Stack the sheets on a plate for serving.

MAKES 12 sheets,
SERVES 4 to 6

NOTE: One of the most ingenious uses for flame-toasted nori (besides for snacking) is as a wrapper for steamed rice. Place a small square of the seaweed on top of a bowl of rice. Holding chopsticks about 1 inch apart, press the seaweed down into the rice, then bring the sticks together to come away with a cork-shaped lump of rice enveloped in seaweed. Pop the whole thing into your mouth.

DIRECT GRILLING
WACKY RUMAKI

Classic rumaki features a water chestnut and a chicken liver wrapped in bacon and grilled on a small skewer. It’s associated with the Polynesian-American restaurants of the 1940s and ’50s. My inventive buddies at Boss Hawg’s Barbecue & Catering Co. in Topeka, Kansas, got to thinking about rumaki alternatives. This one, made with pickled watermelon rind, may sound peculiar, but it tastes great.

2 jars (10 ounces each) pickled watermelon rind, drained

10 to 12 slices bacon, cut into 3½- to 4-inch pieces

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YOU’LL ALSO NEED:

About 32 small (6-inch) bamboo skewers, soaked for 1 hour in cold water to cover, then drained

1. Wrap each watermelon rind piece in a piece of bacon, securing the bacon by inserting a skewer through it into the watermelon.

2. Make an aluminum foil shield for the bamboo skewers by folding a 24-by-12-inch sheet of aluminum foil in half and half again so that it forms a 12-by-6-inch rectangle.

3. Set up the grill for direct grilling (see page 8 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to medium-high.

4. When ready to cook, place the aluminum foil shield in the center of the grill. Arrange the rumakis on the grill so that the exposed part of the skewers are resting on the aluminum foil shield. This will keep them from burning. Grill until the bacon is crisp and brown, about 2 minutes per side (about 4 minutes in all), turning with tongs. The dripping bacon fat may cause flare-ups, so be prepared to move the rumakis. A quick squirt from a water pistol can help extinguish any flare-ups, but don’t overuse this technique or you’ll put out the fire.

5. Transfer the rumaki to a platter and serve them immediately.

MAKES about 32 rumaki, SERVES 6 to 8

DIRECT GRILLING
PROSCIUTTO-GRILLED PRUNES

The sweet, earthy flavor of prunes makes a great counterpoint to the salty taste of ham and the fragrance of wood smoke. These, grilled with prosciutto, make a terrific hors d’oeuvre. They are equally delicious stuffed with almonds.

24 pitted prunes

2 ounces cold Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or other blue cheese cut into pieces the size of olive pits

8 paper-thin slices of prosciutto (about 6 ounces)

YOU’LL ALSO NEED:

24 wooden toothpicks, soaked for 1 hour in cold water to cover, then drained

1. Stuff each prune with a piece of cheese. Cut each prosciutto slice lengthwise in thirds. Use each third to wrap a prune, securing the prosciutto by running a toothpick through the prune.

2. Set up the grill for direct grilling (see page 8 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to high.

3. When ready to grill, brush and oil the grill grate. Grill the prunes until the prosciutto is sizzling and lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes per side, turning with tongs. Transfer the grilled prunes to a platter and serve at once.

MAKES 24, SERVES 6 to 8

GRILLING IN THE EMBERS
SALSA ON THE COALS

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Family, love, and Mexican cooking—the movie Tortilla Soup has them all. If you haven’t seen it, run, don’t walk, to your nearest video store to rent it. The stunning food for the film was created by Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken of Santa Monica’s Border Grill and the Two Hot Tamales TV show. The film’s hero is a semiretired chef whose Sunday suppers are odes—no, epic poems—to Mexico’s magnificent cuisine. His passion for grilling is infectious and he’s not afraid to remove the grate from the grill and roast his vegetables right on the coals. That’s the inspiration for this salsa, the ingredients of which are roasted directly on the embers. The salsa looks cool as all get-out as you prepare it (your guests will be amazed to see tomatoes, onions, and jalapeños burning away on the embers) and the resulting smoke flavors are as gutsy as you could wish for. Sorry gas-grillers; for the full effect, you need charcoal for this one.

2 to 4 jalapeño peppers

4 medium-size very ripe tomatoes or large plum tomatoes (1 to 1½ pounds total)

1 poblano pepper

1 small onion

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea), or more to taste

1 canned chipotle chile, minced

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste

Tortilla chips, for serving

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YOU’LL ALSO NEED:

A charcoal grill

Natural lump charcoal or wood chunks (optional)

1. Light charcoal or wood chunks in a chimney starter (see page 15). When the coals glow red, dump them into the bottom of the grill and rake them into an even layer. Let burn until the coals begin to ash over, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Place the jalapeños, tomatoes, poblano, and onion directly on the coals. Cook until charred black on the outside, about 1 minute per side (2 to 3 minutes in all) for the jalapeños, 1 to 2 minutes per side (3 to 6 minutes in all) for the tomatoes and poblano, and 2 to 3 minutes per side (6 to 9 minutes in all) for the onion. Turn the vegetables with long-handled tongs to ensure even cooking. Transfer the charred vegetables to an aluminum foil pan or heatproof plate and let cool.

3. Using a pastry brush, brush any ash or cinders off the vegetables. Scrape the seeds out of the jalapeños unless you want a really fiery salsa. Scrape the burnt skin off the poblano, and then seed and core it. There are three ways to chop the vegetables: You can grind them in a large molcajete, you can coarsely chop them by hand, or you can coarsely chop them in a food processor. If using a molcajete or food processor, quarter the vegetables first. I like coarsely chopped vegetables (¼-inch pieces), but you can chop them more finely if you like.

4. Place the garlic and salt in the bottom of an attractive nonreactive serving bowl and mash to a paste with the back of a spoon. Add the charred vegetables, chipotle, cilantro, and lime juice and stir to mix. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt or lime juice as necessary; the salsa should be highly seasoned. Serve with tortilla chips.

MAKES about 1½ cups, SERVES 4 to 6

DIRECT GRILLING
GRILLED PROVOLONE

Beef-eating Argentineans aren’t much on side dishes when it comes to barbecue, but provoleta asada, a grilled provolone-like cheese, appears wherever these grill jockeys put meat to fire. They grill disk-shaped slices of provoleta over blazing oak embers just long enough to melt the cheese but not so long that it oozes into the fire. A light dusting of flour keeps the cheese from sticking to the grill grate.

¼ cup flour

2 slices aged provolone cheese (½ inch thick; about 8 ounces each)

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

Garlic-Rubbed “Rabbit Ears” (grilled bread slices, page 248), for serving

YOU’LL ALSO NEED:

1 cup wood chips or chunks (optional; preferably oak), unsoaked (see Note)

1. Set up the grill for direct grilling (see page 8 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to high. (Ideally, you’ll be using oak chunks to grill over; see Fuels on page 12.) If using a gas grill, place all the wood chips or chunks, if using, in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch (see page 12) and pre-heat on high until you see smoke.

2. Spread the flour out in a shallow bowl. Dip the cheese slices in the flour on both sides, shaking off the excess.

3. When ready to cook, if grilling over charcoal, toss all of the wood chips or chunks, if using, on the coals. Brush and oil the grill grate. Place cheese slices on the hot grate. Grill until the bottoms are lightly browned and beginning to melt, 2 to 4 minutes, then, using a grill fork (place the tines between the bars of the grate to pry the cheese off), flip the cheese and grill the other side the same way.

4. Transfer the cheese to a hot plate or platter and sprinkle with the oregano and hot red pepper flakes. Serve at once with the grilled bread. Provide butter knives for spreading the melted provolone.

SERVES 4

NOTE: If you are using wood chunks as your fuel, you’ll need enough to fill a chimney starter.

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DIRECT GRILLING
SAGANAKI

The Greek answer to grilled cheese, saganaki, is splendid—sizzling slabs of salty kasseri cheese, spiced up with garlic, pepper, and lemon; doused with Greek brandy; and dramatically served flaming at the table. Most often, the cheese is “grilled” in a frying pan or under the broiler, but it’s a lot more fun and flavorful to actually cook it on the grill—especially over wood. I’ve tinkered with the traditional recipe a little, but I think you’ll be delighted with the results.

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon cracked or coarsely ground black peppercorns

¼ cup flour

4 slices kasseri cheese (½ inch thick; 3 to 4 ounces each)

1/3 cup brandy, preferably a Greek brandy, such as Metaxa

Crusty bread, for serving

1 lemon, cut into wedges, for serving

YOU’LL ALSO NEED:

1 cup wood chunks (optional; preferably oak), unsoaked (see Note)

1. Put the olive oil, parsley, garlic, and peppercorns in a small bowl and stir to mix. You’ll use this mixture for basting the cheese.

2. Set up the grill for direct grilling (see page 8 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to high. (Ideally, you’ll be using oak chunks to grill over; see Fuels on page 12.) If using a gas grill, place all the wood chips or chunks, if using, in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch (see page 12) and preheat on high until you see smoke.

3. Spread the flour out in a shallow bowl. Dip the cheese slice in the flour on both sides, shaking off the excess.

4. When ready to cook, if grilling over the charcoal, toss all of the wood chips or chunks, if using, on the coals. Brush and oil the grill grate. Place the floured cheese slices on the hot grate. Grill until the bottoms are lightly browned and beginning to melt, 2 to 4 minutes, basting the tops with the garlic-flavored oil. Using tongs, turn the cheese and grill the other side the same way. Put the brandy in a small saucepan and place it at the edge of the grill to warm, but do not let the brandy boil.

5. Transfer the cheese to heatproof plates or a platter. Pour any remaining garlic oil over it. Remove the saucepan from the grill and, working j away from anything flammable and making sure that your sleeves are rolled up and your hair is tied back, ignite the brandy with a long kitchen match. Pour the flaming brandy over the cheese. Serve at once with crusty bread and lemon wedges for squeezing over the cheese.

SERVES 4

NOTE: If you are using wood chunks as your fuel, 2 you’ll need enough to fill a chimney starter.

INDIRECT GRILLING
CAMEMBERT ON A PLANK

It takes a wacky guy to write a book about beer-can chicken. There’s a grill meister living in Canada who’s almost as eccentric as I am—Ted Reader—and the stimulating The Sticks & Stones Cookbook he and Kathleen Sloan wrote is chock-full of offbeat grilling techniques, including using vines, stones, and boards when cooking on the grill. Grilling Camembert on a cedar plank was inspired by Ted’s maple-planked Brie with roasted garlic. My recipe calls for a homemade chutney, but you could certainly use a good commercial brand. I think you’ll find the contrast of the smoky, buttery, melting cheese and tart, gingery chutney to be unbeatable.

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2 Camembert cheeses (8 ounces each)

About 1 cup Peach Chutney (recipe follows) or another flavored chutney, homemade or commercial

¼ cup chopped toasted pecans or walnuts (see Tip)

2 tablespoons melted butter

Garlic-Rubbed “Rabbit Ears” (grilled bread slices, page 248), or crackers, for serving

YOU’LL ALSO NEED

1 cedar plank, soaked for 2 hours, in cold water to cover, then drained

1. Carefully cut the rind off the top of each cheese (take only a paper-thin layer) and discard it. Spread half of the chutney over the top of each cheese, mounding it in the center. Sprinkle each cheese with half of the nuts and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of melted butter.

2. Set up the grill for indirect grilling (see page 9 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to medium-high.

3. When ready to cook, place the soaked cedar plank directly over the fire. Grill until the edges just begin to smoke, 3 to 5 minutes. Invert the plank and move it to the center of the grill, away from the heat. Arrange the cheeses on top. Cover the grill and cook the cheeses until the sides are lightly browned, the cheese starts to melt, and the topping is bubbling, 12 to 20 minutes. Transfer the plank to a heatproof platter and serve at once, spreading the chutney-topped cheese on grilled bread slices or crackers.

SERVES 8 to 10

Peach Chutney

Chutney originated in India (the word comes from the Hindi chatni). But no Bombay pit master ever saw the likes of this one. Fresh Georgia peaches stand in for the traditional green mango. Now, mango has been called the peach of the tropics, so the substitution makes perfect sense. One thing’s for sure—the honeyed, musky, sweet-sour flavor of peach makes for an irresistible chutney—especially when paired with the smoky flavor of barbecue. Really ripe peaches are so fragrant that you can smell them when you walk into a room. Nothing less will do for this chutney. If perfect peaches are not available, you can use apricots, nectarines, or mangoes.

Serve this tangy chutney with all manner of grilled or barbecued chicken, turkey, pork—as well as with the grilled Camembert.

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2 pounds fresh ripe peaches

½ cup diced red onion

½ cup diced red bell pepper

¼ cup raisins

1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced (for a hotter chutney, leave the seeds in)

2 slices (¼ inch thick) fresh or candied ginger, finely chopped

2 tablespoons seeded diced lemon, including the rind

3 tablespoons cider vinegar, or more to taste

3 tablespoons brown sugar, or more to taste

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon ground allspice

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

1. Rinse the peaches and peel, if desired. Cut the peaches into 1-inch pieces, discarding the pits. Put the peach pieces, onion, bell pepper, raisins, jalapeño, ginger, lemon, vinegar, brown sugar, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Let simmer until the peaches are soft, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Taste for seasoning, adding vinegar or brown sugar as necessary. The chutney should be a little sweet and a little sour. Transfer the chutney to a bowl and let cool to room temperature. The chutney can be refrigerated, covered, for several months. Let return to room temperature before serving.

MAKES about 1½ cups

DIRECT GRILLING
MOZZARELLA “S’MORES”

You remember s’mores—flame-roasted marshmallows and pieces of chocolate bar sandwiched between graham crackers. The marshmallows melted the chocolate, creating a gooey mess that was so irresistible, you just had to eat some more. My hors d’oeuvre version features flame-roasted mozzarella cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, and basil squeezed between grilled bread slices or crackers. Everyone still winds up with an irresistibly gooey mess—great party fare.

16 sun-dried tomato halves (see Note)

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, if needed

1 ball of fresh mozzarella (8 to 10 ounces), cut into 16 pieces (cut the cheese into 4 thick slices, then cut each slice in quarters), or 16 bocconcini (bite-size mozzarella balls)

16 fresh basil leaves

16 slices Garlic-Rubbed “Rabbit Ears” (grilled bread slices, page 248) or 32 crackers

YOU’LL ALSO NEED:

2 to 6 long barbecue forks or skewers

1. Place the tomatoes in an attractive serving bowl.

2. Arrange the mozzarella, basil leaves, and grilled bread or crackers in bowls or on a platter.

3. Set up the grill for direct grilling (see page 8 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to high. In the best of all worlds, you’d use a charcoal grill, raking the embers into a pile at the bottom of the grill and leaving off the grill grate. If using a gas grill, preheat it superhot.

4. Skewer a cube of mozzarella. Roast it over the fire, turning the skewer to evenly melt the cheese. If using a gas grill, you’ll need to bring it as close as possible to the fire without touching the grate. When the mozzarella begins to melt and brown, after 1 to 2 minutes over charcoal, a little longer over gas, use a knife or fork to scrape the cheese off the skewer onto a piece of grilled bread. Never attempt to eat the melted cheese directly off the hot skewer—you’ll burn your lips. Top the cheese with a basil leaf and a piece of sun-dried tomato and place a second piece of grilled bread on top. Eat at once.

MAKES 16 pieces; SERVES 4 to 6 as an appetizer, 2 as a light lunch

NOTE: Sun-dried tomatoes come in two forms: oil-packed and dried. Oil-packed tomatoes just need to be drained before you use them. The dried kind need to be soaked in water and marinated in olive oil. To reconstitute the tomatoes, place them in a heatproof bowl and add boiling water to cover. Let soak for 1 hour. Drain the tomatoes well and blot dry. Toss with the olive oil.

DIRECT GRILLING
GRILLED EGGS

Never underestimate the power of astonishment. Even though you’ve recovered from the shock of seeing a chicken barbecuing upright on a beer can, or an ear of corn or an eggplant roasting nestled in the embers, there’s one dish you’ll probably find unfathomable: grilled eggs. An egg calls for a skillet or a saucepan, you’ll argue. Who ever heard of grilling an egg? Well, visit Southeast Asia and you’ll find eggs that are roasted in their shells over blazing coconut shells and served wrapped in lettuce leaves with fresh herbs and chiles. The notion isn’t quite as foreign as it sounds—after all, deviled eggs and egg salads are classic accompaniments to American barbecue. One thing’s for sure: The mere sight of whole eggs roasting away on your barbecue grill will firmly assure your reputation as a maestro who knows no limits.

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1 head Boston or Bibb lettuce, broken into leaves, washed, and spun dry

1 bunch fresh basil, preferably Thai basil, washed, dried, and torn into sprigs

1 bunch fresh cilantro, washed, dried, and torn into sprigs

1 bunch fresh mint, washed, dried, and torn into sprigs

2 cups mung bean sprouts (see Note)

2 to 4 serrano or jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced

Chile-Lime Dipping Sauce (recipe follows; see Note)

4 large eggs

YOU’LL ALSO NEED:

A needle or pin

1. Arrange the lettuce leaves, basil, cilantro, ; mint, bean sprouts, and peppers in attractive piles on a platter. Pour the dipping sauce into 4 small bowls.

2. Using a pin or needle, gently prick the large end of each egg to make a tiny hole.

3. Set up the grill for direct grilling (see page 8 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to medium.

4. When ready to cook, place the eggs on the hot grate. Roast until the shells are lightly browned and the eggs are cooked through, 2½ to 3 minutes per side (10 to 12 minutes in all), turning them 4 times with tongs so all sides are grilled. To j test for doneness, place one of the eggs on a table and give it a spin. If it turns quickly and easily for a long time, it’s cooked through. If it doesn’t, continue j grilling the eggs and check again after 30 seconds.

5. Transfer the eggs to a plate and set aside until cool enough to handle. Shell each egg and cut it lengthwise in quarters or have your guests do this.

6. To eat, place an egg quarter on a lettuce leaf, add basil, cilantro, mint, bean sprouts, and slices of pepper. Roll up the lettuce leaf to make a tight bundle. Dip it in the sauce and enjoy!

SERVES 4

NOTE: Mung beans are the long, crisp white sprouts frequently used in Thai and Chinese cooking. They are available at many supermarkets and Asian markets.

Tradition calls for the eggs to be served with a thin soy sauce-based dipping sauce, like the chile-lime one here. You could also serve the eggs with the Thai-style peanut sauces on pages 75 and 128.

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Chile-Lime Dipping Sauce

An explosive accompaniment to all sorts of grilled fare, from eggs to grilled fish to satés, versions of this dipping sauce abound in Southeast Asia. It’s usually made with white pepper, but you can substitute black if that’s what you have on hand.

¼ cup sugar, or more to taste

3 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

6 tablespoons soy sauce, or more to taste

6 tablespoons fresh lime juice (see Note), or more to taste

2 scallions, both white and green parts, trimmed and thinly sliced

1 to 2 serrano or jalapeño pepper(s), seeded and thinly sliced (for a hotter dipping sauce, leave the seeds in)

¼ cup finely chopped dry-roasted peanuts

1. Place the sugar, garlic, and white pepper in a nonreactive mixing bowl and mash to a paste with the back of a wooden spoon. Add the soy sauce, lime juice, and 6 tablespoons of water and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Taste for seasoning, adding soy sauce or lime juice as necessary.

2. Stir in the scallions, serrano pepper(s), and peanuts just before serving. Pour the sauce into 4 small bowls for dipping.

MAKES about 1¼ cups

NOTE: To get 6 tablespoons of lime juice, you will need to squeeze 3 or 4 limes.

DIRECT GRILLING
GRILL MASTER’S BREAKFAST

“Barbecue . . . it’s not just for breakfast anymore” may be the motto of the Kansas City Barbecue Society, but this is for breakfast, and while it no doubt originated over a campfire, it’s easy to do on a backyard grill. The basic procedure goes something like this: You squeeze two fresh oranges and drink the juice, then use the hollow rinds to cook in—one orange for biscuits or muffins, the other for scrambled eggs. They look great and taste even better. Besides, it gives you an excuse to fire up your grill before breakfast!

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2 large oranges (2½ to 3 inches in diameter)

FOR THE BISCUITS:

1 cup Bisquick or other biscuit mix

½ cup grated Cheddar cheese

1 scallion, both white and green parts, trimmed and finely chopped

1/3 cup milk, or more as needed

FOR THE EGGS:

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons milk or heavy (whipping) cream

1 scallion, both white and green parts, trimmed and finely chopped

¼ cup grated Cheddar cheese

Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper

1. Cut aluminum foil into 4 strips, each 12 by 2 inches. Crumple the foil strips and shape them into 4 rings, each 2 inches in diameter.

2. Cut each orange in half crosswise and squeeze out the juice (this is most easily done with a juicer). Put the juice in a glass. Using a spoon (a grapefruit spoon works well), scrape the inside of each orange rind clean, taking care not to puncture the shell.

3. Make the biscuit batter: Place the Bisquick, Cheddar, and scallion in a bowl and stir to mix. Stir in the milk. If the batter seems a bit dry, add a little more milk. Set 2 orange rind halves upright on 2 aluminum foil rings and divide the biscuit mixture between them.

4. Make the scrambled eggs: Break the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, and beat with a fork until smooth. Beat in the scallion and Cheddar, and season with salt and pepper. Set the remaining 2 orange rind halves upright on the remaining 2 aluminum foil rings and divide the egg mixture between them.

5. Set up the grill for direct grilling (see page 8 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to medium-high.

6. When ready to cook, place the orange rind halves on their rings on the hot grate and cook until the biscuits are puffed and browned and the eggs are set, 12 to 15 minutes. The biscuits and scrambled eggs can be eaten right out of the orange rinds. Serve with the orange juice.

SERVES 1; can be multiplied, as desired

VARIATION: You can use the indirect method to grill the biscuits and scrambled eggs. Set up the grill for indirect grilling (see page 9 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to medium-high. When ready to cook, place the filled orange rinds in the center of the hot grate, away from the heat, and cover the grill. Cook until the biscuits are puffed and browned and the eggs are set, 20 to 25 minutes.

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ROTISSERIE GRILLING
ROTISSERIE-GRILLED GARLIC ROLLS

Nothing sets the mood for a barbecue like a well-laden, slow-turning rotisserie. And if you really want to grab attention, try grilling garlic bread on the rotisserie. I first tasted this unusual bread at the Mercado del Puerto in Montevideo, Uruguay, where it was served as an accompaniment to the local plate-burying steaks and sausages. It’s equally good enjoyed at home.

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12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) salted butter, at room temperature

3 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

6 rolls (each 3 to 4 inches long and 2 to 3 inches wide; see Tip)

YOU’LL ALSO NEED:

A grill with a rotisserie

1. Put the butter, garlic, and parsley in a bowl and stir to mix. Using a serrated knife, make 3 slashes in each roll, 2 on the diagonal on the top and 1 on the diagonal on the bottom. Using a spatula, spread some garlic butter into each slash, reserving 3 tablespoons of garlic butter for basting. Skewer the rolls lengthwise on the rotisserie spit.

2. Set up the grill for rotisserie grilling, following the manufacturer’s instructions, and preheat to medium-high.

3. When ready to cook, attach the spit to the rotisserie mechanism of the grill and turn on the motor. Grill the rolls until crusty and golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes, brushing the out-sides with the remaining garlic butter. Unskewer the rolls and serve at once.

MAKES 6 rolls

VARIATION: You can use the indirect method to grill the rolls. Set up the grill for indirect grilling (see page 9 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to medium-high. Make the garlic butter, as described above. Make several deep slashes in the top of each roll and spread garlic butter in each, using a spatula. Spread more butter on the outside of the rolls, using a spatula or pastry brush. When ready to cook, place the rolls in the center of the hot grate, away from the heat. Cover the grill and cook the rolls until crusty and golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes, basting with any remaining garlic butter. Serve at once.

INDIRECT GRILLING
BARBECUED TOFU

There are 5 million or so vegetarians in the United States and they, too, have the inalienable right to gather round the grill. Eating tofu has been shown to offer a host of health benefits, from lowering blood pressure and cholesterol to reducing the risk of cancer. The following barbecued tofu has all the spice and smoke flavors any ’que head could wish for.

ADVANCE PREPARATION: 2 to 4 hours for the tofu to absorb the rub

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons All-Purpose Barbecue Rub (page 37) or your favorite rub, plus 1 teaspoon for basting

2 blocks of tofu (1 pound each)

1 cup of your favorite barbecue sauce, or one of the sauces in this book

Hamburger buns (optional), for serving

YOU’LL ALSO NEED:

1 cup wood chips or chunks (preferably hickory or oak), soaked for 1 hour in cold water to cover, then drained

1. Put the oil and garlic and 1 teaspoon barbecue rub in a small bowl and stir to mix. Set the oil aside.

2. Cut each block of tofu in half through the short side to obtain 4 broad thin “steaks.” Blot the tofu pieces dry with paper towels and arrange in a baking dish. Sprinkle the remaining rub over the tofu on both sides, gently patting it on with your fingertips. Don’t forget to apply a little rub to the sides. Refrigerate the tofu for 2 to 4 hours.

3. Set up the grill for indirect grilling (see page 9 for both charcoal and gas) and preheat to medium. If using a gas grill, place the wood chips in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch (see page 12) and preheat on high until you see smoke, then reduce the heat to medium.

4. When ready to cook, if using a charcoal grill, toss all the wood chips or chunks on the coals. Brush and oil the grill grate. Place the tofu slices on the center of the hot grate, away from the heat. Cover the grill and let the tofu smoke for 15 minutes.

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5. Brush each piece of tofu on both sides j with the garlic oil. Slide the tofu pieces directly 2 over the fire and cook until nicely browned on both 2 · sides, 3 to 5 minutes per side. During the last 2 minutes of grilling, brush the tofu on both sides with some of the barbecue sauce and let both sides sizzle over the fire as well. Transfer the barbecued tofu to a platter and serve at once, with the remaining barbecue sauce on the side. If you like, serve the tofu on hamburger buns.

SERVES 4