Map: Edinburgh’s Dalkeith Road Neighborhood
Guesthouses on Mayfield Gardens
Map: Royal Mile Accommodations & Eateries
The Dalkeith Road Area, near B&Bs
Edinburgh is the historical and cultural capital of Scotland. Once a medieval powerhouse sitting on a lava flow, it grew into Europe’s first great, grid-planned modern city. The colorful haunt of Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Burns, Edinburgh is Scotland’s showpiece and one of Europe’s most entertaining cities. Historic, monumental, fun, and well-organized, it’s a tourist’s delight—especially in August, when the Edinburgh Festival takes over the town.
Promenade down the Royal Mile through Old Town. Historic buildings pack the Royal Mile between the grand castle (on the top) and the Palace of Holyroodhouse (on the bottom). Medieval skyscrapers stand shoulder to shoulder, hiding peaceful courtyards connected to High Street by narrow lanes or even tunnels. This colorful jumble is the tourist’s Edinburgh.
Edinburgh (ED’n-burah—only tourists pronounce it like “Pittsburgh”) was once the most crowded city in Europe—famed for its skyscrapers and filth. The rich and poor lived atop one another. In the Age of Enlightenment, a magnificent Georgian city (today’s New Town) was laid out to the north, giving Edinburgh’s upper class a respectable place to promenade. Georgian Edinburgh—like the city of Bath—shines with broad boulevards, straight streets, square squares, circular circuses, and elegant mansions decked out in colonnades, pediments, and sphinxes in the proud Neoclassical style of 250 years ago.
While the Georgian city celebrated the union of Scotland and England (with streets and squares named after British kings and emblems), “devolution” is the latest trend. For the past several centuries, Scotland was ruled from London, and Parliament had not met in Edinburgh since 1707. But in a 1998 election, the Scots voted to gain more autonomy and bring their Parliament home. In 1999, Edinburgh resumed its position as home to the Scottish parliament (although London still calls the strategic shots). A strikingly modern Parliament building, which opened in 2004, is one more jewel in Edinburgh’s crown. Today, you’ll notice many references to the “nation” of Scotland.
While the major sights can be seen in a day, on a three-week tour of Britain, I’d give Edinburgh two days and three nights.
Day 1: Tour the castle (open from 9:30). Then consider catching one of the city bus tours for a one-hour loop (departing from a block below the castle at The Hub/Tolbooth Church; you could munch a sandwich from the top deck if you’re into multitasking). Back at the castle, catch the 14:15 Mercat Tours walk (1.5 hours, leaves from Mercat Cross on the Royal Mile). Spend the remainder of your day enjoying the Royal Mile’s shops and museums, or touring the Palace of Holyroodhouse (at the bottom of the Mile).
Day 2: Visit the Museum of Scotland. After lunch, stroll through the Princes Street Gardens and the National Gallery of Scotland. Then tour the good ship Britannia.
Evenings: Options include various “haunted Edinburgh” walks, literary pub crawls, or live music in pubs. Sadly, traditional folk shows are just about extinct, surviving only in excruciatingly schmaltzy variety shows put on for tour-bus groups. Perhaps the most authentic evening out is just settling down in a pub to sample the whisky and local beers while meeting the natives...and attempting to understand them through their thick Scottish accents.
The center of Edinburgh, a drained lake bed, holds the Princes Street Gardens park and Waverley Bridge, where you’ll find the TI, Princes Mall, the train station, the bus info office (starting point for most city bus tours), the National Gallery, and a covered dance-and-music pavilion. Weather blows in and out—bring your sweater and be prepared for rain. Locals say the bad weather is one of the disadvantages of living so close to England.
You might notice the city is pretty dug up. It’s all in preparation for the Edinburgh’s new tram system, which is scheduled to begin running from the airport to the city center in 2014—three years later than originally planned.
The crowded TI is as central as can be atop the Princes Mall and train station (Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-17:00, July-Aug daily until 19:00, tel. 0845-225-5121, www.edinburgh.org). The staff is knowledgeable and eager to help, but much of their information—including their assessment of museums and even which car-rental companies “exist”—is skewed by tourism payola. The TI at the airport is more helpful.
At either TI, pick up a free map or buy the excellent £4.50 Collins Discovering Edinburgh map (which comes with opinionated commentary and locates almost every major shop and sight). If you’re interested in late-night music, ask for the free monthly entertainment Gig Guide. (The best monthly entertainment listing, The List, sells for a few pounds at newsstands.) The free Essential Guide to Edinburgh, while not truly essential, lists additional sights and services (when it’s in stock). The TIs also sell the mediocre Edinburgh Pass, which provides a ticket for the Airlink airport bus and entry to dozens of B-list sights (£29/1 day, £39/2 days, £49/3 days, doesn’t include Edinburgh Castle, Holyroodhouse, or Britannia, www.edinburgh.org/pass).
Book your room direct, using my listings (the TIs charge you a £4 booking fee, and also take a 10 percent cut, which means that B&Bs end up charging more for rooms booked this way).
Browse the racks—tucked away in the hallway at the back of the central TI—for brochures on the various Scottish folk shows, walking tours, regional bus tours, and other touristic temptations.
By Train: Arriving by train at Waverley Station puts you in the city center and below the TI. Taxis queue almost trackside; the ramp they come and go on leads to Waverley Bridge. If this taxi lane is closed (due to construction), hike up the ramp and hail one on the street. From the station, Way Out-1-Princes Street signs lead up to the TI and the city bus stop (for bus directions from here to my recommended B&Bs, see “Sleeping in Edinburgh,” later). For picnic supplies, an M&S Simply Food is near platform 2.
By Bus: Both Scottish Citylink and National Express buses, along with newcomer Megabus, use the bus station (with luggage lockers) in the New Town, two blocks north of the train station on St. Andrew Square.
By Plane: Edinburgh’s slingshot of an airport is located 10 miles northwest of the center. Airport flight info: Tel. 0844-481-8989, www.edinburghairport.com.
Taxis between the airport and the city center are pricey (£20-25, 20 minutes to downtown or to Dalkeith Road B&Bs). Fortunately, the airport is well-connected to central Edinburgh by the convenient, frequent, cheap Lothian Airlink bus #100 (£3.50, £6 round-trip, 6/hour, 30 minutes, buses run all day and 2/hour through the night, tel. 0131/555-6363, www.flybybus.com). The bus drops you at the center of Waverley Bridge. From here, to reach my recommended B&Bs near Dalkeith Road, you can either take a taxi (about £7), or hop on a bus (during tram construction, you may have to walk over to North Bridge, on the other side of the train station, to catch the bus). Ride bus #14, #30, or #33, and get off at the first or second stop after the bus makes a right turn onto Dalkeith Road (£1.40, have coins ready—drivers don’t make change, buses leave frequently, confirm specific directions with your B&B).
If you’re headed to the airport, you can take this same Airlink bus: To get from the Dalkeith Road B&Bs to the Airlink stop downtown, you can ride a city bus to North Bridge, get off, turn left at the grand Balmoral Hotel and walk a short distance down Princes Street to the next bridge, Waverley, where you’ll find the Airlink bus stop. Or, rather than taking a £25 taxi all the way to the airport, you can save money by taking a £7 taxi to this stop, then hopping the bus to the airport.
By Car: If you’re arriving from the north, rather than drive through downtown Edinburgh to the recommended B&Bs, circle the city on the A-720 City Bypass road. Approaching Edinburgh on the M-9, take the M-8 (direction: Glasgow) and quickly get onto the A-720 City Bypass (direction: Edinburgh South). After four miles, you’ll hit a roundabout. Ignore signs directing you into Edinburgh North and stay on the A-720 for 10 more miles to the next and last roundabout, named Sheriffhall. Exit the roundabout on the first left (A-7 Edinburgh). From here it’s four miles to the B&B neighborhood. After a while, the A-7 becomes Dalkeith Road. If you see a huge building with a swimming pool, you’ve gone a couple of blocks too far (avoid this by referring to the map on here).
If you’re driving in on the A-68 from the south, take the A-7 Edinburgh exit off the roundabout and follow the directions above.
Sunday Activities: Many Royal Mile sights close on Sunday (except during August and the Edinburgh Festival), but other major sights are open. Sunday is a good day to catch a guided walking tour along the Royal Mile or a city bus tour (buses go faster in light traffic). The slopes of Arthur’s Seat, an extinct volcano, are lively with hikers and picnickers on weekends.
Festivals: August is a crowded, popular month to visit Edinburgh because of the multiple festivals hosted here, including the official Edinburgh Festival (Aug 9-Sept 1 in 2013). Book ahead if you’ll be visiting during this month, and expect to pay significantly more for your accommodations. For all the details, see here.
Internet Access: Many B&Bs and coffee shops, including The Hub, offer free Wi-Fi. You can also get online at the TI (£1/20 minutes).
Baggage Storage: At the train station, you’ll find pricey, high-security luggage storage near platform 2 (£7/24 hours, daily 7:00-23:00). It’s cheaper to use the lockers at the bus station on St. Andrew Square, just a five-minute walk from the train station (£3-7 depending on size—even smallest locker is plenty big, coins only, station open daily 6:00-24:00).
Laundry: Ace Cleaning Centre launderette is located near the recommended B&Bs (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00), self-service (£7-8) or drop-off (£8-10); along the bus route to the city center at 13 South Clerk Street, opposite Queens Hall; tel. 0131/667-0549). For a small extra fee, they collect and drop off laundry at the neighborhood B&Bs.
Bike Rental: The laid-back crew at Cycle Scotland offers bike tours and happily recommends good bike routes (£15/3 hours, £20/day, daily 10:00-18:00, just off Royal Mile at 29 Blackfriars Street, tel. 0131/556-5560, www.cyclescotland.co.uk).
Car Rental: All of these places have offices both in the town center and at the airport: Avis (5 West Park Place, tel. 0844-544-6059, airport tel. 0844-544-6004), Europcar (Waverley Station, tel. 0131/556-5210, airport tel. 0131/470-6420), Hertz (10 Picardy Place, tel. 0843-309-3026, airport tel. 0843-309-3025), and Budget (will meet you at train station and take you to their office at 1 Murrayburn Road, tel. 0131/455-7314, airport tel. 0844-544-4605). Some downtown offices are closed on Sunday, but the airport locations tend to be open daily—call ahead to confirm. If you’re going to rent a car, pick it up on your way out of Edinburgh—you won’t need it in town.
Blue Badge Local Guides: The following guides charge similar prices and offer half-day and full-day tours. Ken Hanley wears his kilt as if pants didn’t exist, knows all the stories, and loves sharing his passion for Edinburgh and Scotland (£95/half-day, £130/day, extra charge if he uses his car—which fits up to 6, tel. 0131/666-1944, mobile 0771-034-2044, www.small-world-tours.co.uk, k.hanley@blueyonder.co.uk). Other good guides include Jean Blair (£140/day, £340/day with car, tel. 0150/682-5930, mobile 0798-957-0287, www.travelthroughscotland.com, jean@travelthroughscotland.com), Sergio La Spina (an Argentinean who adopted Edinburgh as his hometown more than 20 years ago, £150/day, tel. 0131/664-1731, mobile 0797-330-6579, sergiolaspina@aol.com), and Anne Doig (£120/day, mobile 0777-590-1792, annedoig2@hotmail.com, may be out of contact in the summer). While not a “Blue Badge” guide, young, enthusiastic Matthew Wight specializes in tours of greater Edinburgh and Scotland in spacious SUVs—good for families (£335/9 hours, mobile 0798-941-6990, www.discreetscotland.com, info@discreetscotland.com).
Updates to this Book: For news about changes to this book’s coverage since it was published, see www.ricksteves.com/update.
Many of Edinburgh’s sights are within walking distance of one another, but buses come in handy. Two companies handle the city routes: Lothian (which dominates) and First. Lothian sells a day pass valid only on their buses (£3.50, buy from driver). Buses run from about 6:00 (9:00 on Sun) to 23:00 (£1.40/ride, buy tickets on bus, Lothian Buses transit office at Old Town end of Waverley Bridge has schedules and route maps, tel. 0131/555-6363, www.lothianbuses.com). Tell the driver where you’re going, have change handy (buses require exact change—you lose any extra you put in), take your ticket as you board, and ping the bell as you near your stop. Double-deckers come with fine views upstairs.
The 1,300 taxis cruising Edinburgh’s streets are easy to flag down (a ride between downtown and the B&B neighborhood costs about £7). They can turn on a dime, so hail them in either direction.
Royal Mile Walking Tours—Edinburgh Tour Guides offers your best basic historical walk (without all the ghosts and goblins). The staff of committed guides heads out as long as they have at least two people. Their Royal Mile tour is a gentle two-hour downhill stroll from the castle to the palace (£12; daily at 9:30, 14:00, and 19:00; meet outside Gladstone’s Land, near the top of the Royal Mile—see map on here, call to confirm and reserve, tel. 0131/443-3200, mobile 0789-994-8585, www.edinburghtourguides.com).
Mercat Tours offers 1.5-hour guided walks of the Mile, which are more entertaining than intellectual (£10, daily at 14:15, leaves from Mercat Cross on the Royal Mile, tel. 0131/225-5445, www.mercattours.com). The guides, who enjoy making a short story long, ignore the big sights and take you behind the scenes with piles of barely historical gossip, bully-pulpit Scottish pride, and fun but forgettable trivia. These tours can move quickly, scaling the steep hills and steps of Edinburgh—wear good shoes. They also offer several ghost tours, as well as one focused on 18th-century underground vaults on the southern slope of the Royal Mile.
The Voluntary Guides Association offers free two-hour walks, but only during the Edinburgh Festival. You don’t need a reservation, but it’s a good idea to call the TI or drop by there to double-check details, such as departure point and time (daily at about 10:00 and 14:00, generally depart from Cannonball House at Castle Esplanade, www.edinburghfestivalguides.org).
Evening ghost walks and pub tours are described later, under “Nightlife in Edinburgh” on here.
Edinburgh Bus Tours—Five different one-hour hop-on, hop-off bus tours circle the town center, stopping at the major sights. You can hop on and off at any stop all day with one ticket (pick-ups about every 10-15 minutes). All tours are narrated. Two of the tours have live guides: Mac Tours’ City Tour (focuses on Old Town, most comprehensive, live Mon-Fri with “vintage buses”) and Edinburgh Tour (focuses on the wider city, more panoramic, always live). Avoid the City Sightseeing Tours, which have a recorded narration (better for non-English-speakers). The World Heritage Tour also offers recorded narrations in multiple languages while exploring Edinburgh’s historic heritage-listed sites. The tours all have virtually the same route, cost, and frequency, except the Majestic Tour, whose regular route is longer and includes a stop at the Britannia and the Royal Botanic Garden (£12/tour, £16 for all five tours, tickets give small discounts on most sights along the route, valid 24 hours, buy on bus or at kiosk on Waverly Bridge, tel. 0131/220-0770, www.edinburghtour.com). Buses run daily year-round (Mac Tours runs only April-Aug); in peak season (April-Oct), they leave Waverley Bridge daily, roughly between 9:30 and 19:00 (later in July-Aug, hours shrink off-season). On sunny days they go topless (the buses), but come with increased traffic noise and exhaust fumes. All of these companies are actually run by Lothian Buses (which has to splinter its offerings this way because of local antimonopoly laws).
Busy sightseers might want to get the Royal Edinburgh Ticket (£43, www.royaledinburghticket.co.uk), which covers two days of unlimited travel on all five tour buses, as well as admission to Edinburgh Castle (£16), the Palace of Holyroodhouse (£10.75), and the Britannia (£11.75). If you plan to visit all these sights and to use a tour bus both days, the ticket will save you a few pounds (and, in the summer, help you bypass any lines). You can buy these tickets online, from the TI, or from the staff at the tour-bus pick-up point on Waverley Bridge. If your main interest is seeing the Britannia, you’ll save money by taking a regular bus instead (see here).
Many companies run a variety of day trips to regional sights. Study the brochures at the TI’s rack.
Highlands Tours—By far the most popular tour is the all-day Highlands trip. The standard Highlands tour gives those with limited time a chance to experience the wonders of Scotland’s wild and legend-soaked Highlands in a single long day (about £35-45, roughly 8:00-20:30). You’ll generally see the vast and brutal Rannoch Moor; Glencoe, still evocative with memories of the clan massacre; views of Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis; Fort Augustus on Loch Ness (some tours have a 1.5-hour stop here with an optional £12 boat ride); and a 45-minute tea or pub break in the fine town of Pitlochry. You learn about the Loch Ness monster, and a bit about Edinburgh to boot as you drive in and out.
Various competing companies run these tours (each offering a slightly different combination of sights), including Timberbush Highland Tours (£40, 7- to 36-seat air-con buses, reliable, depart from entrance to Edinburgh Castle, tel. 0131/226-6066, www.timberbushtours.com); Gray Line (£41, tel. 0131/555-5558, www.graylinescotland.com); Rabbie’s Trail Burners (£42-49, maximum 16 per tour, guaranteed departures, depart from their office at 207 High Street, tel. 0131/226-3133, www.rabbies.com); and Heart of Scotland Tours (£41, £3 Rick Steves discount on all their tours—mention when booking, departures daily at 8:00, leaves from opposite Travelodge on Waterloo Place near Waverley Station, tel. 01828/627-799, www.heartofscotlandtours.co.uk, run by Nick Roche). As Heart of Scotland is a small company, they may need to cancel if the requisite six people don’t sign up. Be sure to leave a contact number so you can be notified. A final decision is made by 18:00 the night before.
Haggis Adventures runs cheap and youthful tours on 16- to 39-seat buses with a very Scottish driver/guide. Their day trips (£33-43) include a distillery visit and the Highlands, or Loch Lomond and the southern Highlands. Their overnight trips are designed for young backpackers, but they welcome travelers of any age who want a quick look at the countryside and are up for hosteling (2- to 10-day trips, office at 60 High Street, tel. 0131/557-9393, www.haggisadventures.com).
Scotch Whisky Experience (a.k.a. “Malt Disney”)
▲Writers’ Museum at Lady Stair’s House
Heart of Midlothian and Nearby
▲▲Scottish Parliament Building
Sights Just Off the Royal Mile
▲▲▲National Museum of Scotland
Bonnie Wee Sights in the New Town
St. Andrew’s and St. George’s Church
▲▲National Gallery of Scotland
Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
The fortified birthplace of the city 1,300 years ago, this imposing symbol of Edinburgh sits proudly on a rock high above you. While the castle has been both a fort and a royal residence since the 11th century, most of the buildings today are from its more recent use as a military garrison. This fascinating and multifaceted sight deserves several hours of your time.
Cost and Hours: £16, daily April-Oct 9:30-18:00, Nov-March 9:30-17:00, last entry one hour before closing, National War Museum Scotland closes one hour before rest of castle, tel. 0131/225-9846, www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk.
Avoiding Lines: The least crowded times are usually between 10:00 and 11:00 and between 14:00-15:30. To avoid ticket lines (worst in August), book online and print your ticket at home, or pick up your pre-booked ticket at the machines just inside the entrance.
Tours: Thirty-minute guided introductory tours are free with admission (2-4/hour, depart from entry gate, see clock for next departure; fewer tours off-season). The excellent audioguide provides a good supplement to the live guided tour, offering four hours of quick-dial digital descriptions of the sights, including the National War Museum Scotland (£3.50, slightly cheaper if purchased with entry ticket, pay at the ticket booth and pick it up at the entry gate).
Services: The clean WC at the entry routinely wins “British Loo of the Year” awards. For lunch, you have two choices. The Red Coat Café and Jacobite Room—located within Edinburgh Castle—is a big, bright, efficient cafeteria with great views (£7 quick, healthy meals). Punctuate the two parts of your castle visit (the castle itself and the impressive National War Museum Scotland) with a smart break here. The Tea Rooms, in a building at the top of the hill, right across from the crown jewels, serves sit-down meals in its small, tight space (last orders 30 minutes before castle complex closes).
Getting There: You can walk to the castle, catch a bus (which drops you off a short, uphill walk away), or take a taxi (taxis let you off right at the bottom of the esplanade, in front of the gate).
(See “Edinburgh Castle” map, here)
Self-Guided Tour: Start at the entry gate, where you can pick up your audioguide and enjoy the entertaining, included, and worthwhile 30-minute introductory tour with a live guide. The castle has five essential stops: the crown jewels, Royal Palace, Scottish National War Memorial, St. Margaret’s Chapel (with a city view), and the excellent National War Museum Scotland. The first four are at the highest and most secure point—on or near the castle square, where your introductory guided tour ends (and the sights described below begin). The separate National War Museum Scotland is worth a serious look—allow at least a half-hour (50 yards below the cafeteria and big shop).
Crown Jewels: There are two ways to get to the jewels. You can go in directly from the top palace courtyard, Crown Square, but there’s often a line. To avoid the line, head to the left as you’re facing the building and find the entrance near the WCs. This route takes you through the “Honors of Scotland” exhibition—an interesting, if Disney-esque, series of displays (which often moves at a very slow shuffle) telling the story of the crown jewels and how they survived the harrowing centuries.
Scotland’s crown jewels, though not as impressive as England’s, are older and treasured by the locals. Though Oliver Cromwell destroyed England’s jewels, the Scots managed to hide theirs. Longtime symbols of Scottish nationalism, they were made in Edinburgh—in 1540 for a 1543 coronation—out of Scottish diamonds, gems, and gold...some say the personal gold of King Robert the Bruce. They were last used to crown Charles II in 1651. When the Act of Union was forced upon the Scots in 1707—dissolving Scotland’s parliament into England’s to create the United Kingdom—part of the deal was that the Scots could keep their jewels locked up in Edinburgh. The jewels remained hidden for more than 100 years. In 1818, Sir Walter Scott and a royal commission rediscovered them intact. In 1999, for the first time in nearly three centuries, the crown of Scotland was brought from the castle for the opening of the Scottish parliament (see photos on the wall where the “Honors of Scotland” exhibit meets the crown jewels room; a smiling Queen Elizabeth II presides over the historic occasion).
The Stone of Scone (a.k.a. the “Stone of Destiny”) sits plain and strong next to the jewels. This big gray chunk of rock is the coronation stone of Scotland’s ancient kings (ninth century). Swiped by the English, it sat under the coronation chair at Westminster Abbey from 1296 until 1996. Queen Elizabeth finally agreed to let the stone go home, on one condition: that it be returned to Westminster Abbey in London for all future coronations. With major fanfare, Scotland’s treasured Stone of Scone returned to Edinburgh on Saint Andrew’s Day, November 30, 1996. Talk to the guard for more details.
The Royal Palace: Scottish royalty lived here only when safety or protocol required it (they preferred the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom of the Royal Mile). The Royal Palace, facing the castle square under the flagpole, has two historic yet unimpressive rooms (through door marked “1566”) and the Great Hall (separate entrance from opposite side of square; see below). Enter the Mary, Queen of Scots room, where in 1566 the queen gave birth to James VI of Scotland, who later became King James I of England. The Presence Chamber leads into Laich Hall (Lower Hall), the dining room of the royal family.
The Great Hall was the castle’s ceremonial meeting place in the 16th and 17th centuries. In later times, it was a barracks and a hospital. Although most of what you see is Victorian, two medieval elements survive: the fine hammer-beam roof and the big iron-barred peephole (above fireplace on right). This allowed the king to spy on his subjects while they partied.
The Scottish National War Memorial: This commemorates the 149,000 Scottish soldiers lost in World War I, the 58,000 who died in World War II, and the nearly 800 (and counting) lost in British battles since. This is a somber spot (put away your camera, phone, etc.). Paid for by public donations, each bay is dedicated to a particular Scottish regiment. The main shrine, featuring a green Italian-marble memorial that contains the original WWI rolls of honor, sits—almost as if it were sacred—on an exposed chunk of the castle rock. Above you, the archangel Michael is busy slaying a dragon. The bronze frieze accurately shows the attire of various wings of Scotland’s military. The stained glass starts with Cain and Abel on the left, and finishes with a celebration of peace on the right. To appreciate how important this place is, consider that Scottish soldiers died at twice the rate of other British soldiers in World War I.
St. Margaret’s Chapel: The oldest building in Edinburgh is dedicated to Queen Margaret, who died here in 1093 and was sainted in 1250. Built in 1130 in the Romanesque style of the Norman invaders, it’s wonderfully simple, with classic Norman zigzags decorating the round arch that separates the tiny nave from the sacristy. It was used as a powder magazine for 400 years; very little survives. You’ll see a facsimile of St. Margaret’s 11th-century gospel book and small windows featuring St. Margaret, St. Columba (who brought Christianity to Scotland via Iona), and William Wallace (the brave-hearted defender of Scotland). The place is popular for weddings—and, as it seats only 20, it’s particularly popular with brides’ fathers.
Mons Meg, in front of the church, is a huge and once-upon-a-time frightening 15th-century siege cannon that fired 330-pound stones nearly two miles. It was a gift from the Belgians, who shared a common enemy with the Scots—England—and were eager to arm Scotland.
Belly up to the banister (outside the chapel, below the cannon) to enjoy the grand view. Beneath you are the guns—which fire the one o’clock salute—and a sweet little line of doggie tombstones, marking the soldiers’ pet cemetery. Beyond stretches the Georgian New Town (read the informative plaque).
Crowds gather for the 13:00 gun blast, a tradition that gives ships in the bay something to set their navigational devices by. (The frugal Scots don’t fire it at high noon, as that would cost 11 extra rounds a day.)
The National War Museum Scotland: This museum is a pleasant surprise, thoughtfully covering four centuries of Scottish military history. Instead of the usual musty, dusty displays of endless armor, this museum has an interesting mix of short films, uniforms, weapons, medals, mementos, and eloquent excerpts from soldiers’ letters. Just when you thought your castle visit was about over, you’ll likely find yourself lingering at this stop, which rivals any military museum you’ll see in Europe (closes one hour before rest of castle complex).
Here you’ll learn the story of how the fierce and courageous Scottish warrior changed from being a symbol of resistance against Britain to being a champion of that same empire. Along the way, these military men received many decorations for valor and did more than their share of dying in battle. But even when fighting for—rather than against—England, Scottish regiments still promoted their romantic, kilted-warrior image.
Queen Victoria fueled this ideal throughout the 19th century. (She was infatuated with the Scottish Highlands and the culture’s untamed, rustic mystique.) Highland soldiers, especially officers, went to great personal expense to sport all their elaborate regalia, and the kilted men fought best to the tune of their beloved bagpipes. For centuries the stirring drone of bagpipes accompanied Highland soldiers into battle—inspiring them, raising their spirits, and announcing to the enemy that they were about to meet a fierce and mighty foe.
This museum shows the human side of war, and the cleverness of government-sponsored ad campaigns that kept the lads enlisting. Two centuries of recruiting posters make the same pitch that still works today: a hefty signing bonus, steady pay, and job security with the promise of a manly and adventurous life—all spiked with a mix of pride and patriotism.
Leaving the Castle: As you exit, turn around and look back at the gate. There stand King Robert the Bruce (on the left, 1274-1329) and Sir William Wallace (Braveheart—on the right, 1270-1305). Wallace—now well-known to Americans, thanks to Mel Gibson—fought long and hard against English domination before being executed in London. Bruce beat the English at Bannockburn in 1314. Bruce and Wallace still defend the spirit of Scotland. The Latin inscription above the gate between them reads, more or less, “What you do to us...we will do to you.”
The Royal Mile is one of Europe’s most interesting historic walks. Consisting of a series of four different streets—Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High Street, and Canongate (each with its own set of street numbers)—the Royal Mile is actually 200 yards longer than a mile. And every inch is packed with shops, cafés, and lanes leading to tiny squares.
Start at the castle at the top and amble down to the palace. These sights are listed in walking order. Entertaining guided walks bring the legends and lore of the Royal Mile alive (described earlier, under “Tours in Edinburgh”).
As you walk, remember that originally there were two settlements here, divided by a wall: Edinburgh lined the ridge from the castle at the top. The lower end, Canongate, was outside the wall until 1856. By poking down the many side alleys, you’ll find a few surviving rough edges of an Old Town well on its way to becoming a touristic mall. Be glad you’re here now; in a few years it’ll be all tartans and shortbread, with tourists slaloming through the postcard racks on bagpipe skateboards.
Royal Mile Terminology: A “close” is a tiny alley between two buildings (originally with a door that closed it at night). A close usually leads to a “court,” or courtyard. A “land” is a tenement block of apartments. A “pend” is an arched gateway. A “wynd” is a narrow, winding lane. And “gate” is from an old Scandinavian word for street.
Castle Esplanade—At the top of the Royal Mile, the big parking lot leading up to the castle was created as a military parade ground in 1816. It’s often cluttered with bleachers for the Military Tattoo—a spectacular massing of the bands, filling the square nightly for most of August. At the bottom, on the left (where the square hits the road), a plaque above the tiny witches’ fountain memorializes 300 women who were accused of witchcraft and burned here. Scotland burned more witches per capita than any other country—17,000 between 1479 and 1722. The plaque shows two witches: one good and one bad.
Walking downhill, you’ll pass a touristy “Weaving Mill and Exhibition” that was once the Old Town’s reservoir (you’ll see the wellheads it served all along this walk). At Ramsey Lane, the street just before the Camera Obscura, turn left and walk one block. At the corner, enjoy a commanding Edinburgh view: Nelson’s column stands atop Calton Hill with a Greek temple folly from 1822 (they ran out of money to finish this memorial to the British victory over France in the Napoleonic era). The big clock tower marks the Balmoral Hotel—built as a terminal hotel above Waverley Station in 1903. The lacy Neo-Gothic Sir Walter Scott Memorial is to the left. Below, two Neoclassical buildings—the National Gallery and Royal Scottish Academy—stand on The Mound.
• Now head back out to the Mile.
Camera Obscura—A big deal when it was built in 1853, this observatory topped with a mirror reflected images onto a disc before the wide eyes of people who had never seen a photograph or a captured image. Today, you can climb 100 steps for an entertaining 20-minute demonstration (3/hour). At the top, enjoy the best view anywhere of the Royal Mile. Then work your way down through five floors of illusions, holograms, and early photos. This is a big hit with kids, but sadly overpriced.
Cost and Hours: £11, daily July-Aug 9:30-19:30, April-June and Sept-Oct 9:30-18:00, Nov-March 10:00-17:00, last demonstration one hour before closing, tel. 0131/226-3709, www.camera-obscura.co.uk.
Scotch Whisky Experience (a.k.a. “Malt Disney”)—This gimmicky ambush is designed only to distill £12.50 out of your pocket. You kick things off with a slow-moving whisky-barrel train-car ride that goes to great lengths to make whisky production seem thrilling (things get pretty psychedelic when you hit the yeast stage). An informative lecture on whisky regions and production in Scotland includes sampling a wee dram, and the chance to stand amid the world’s largest Scotch whisky collection (almost 3,500 bottles). At the end, you’ll find yourself in the bar, which is worth a quick look for its wall of unusually shaped whisky bottles. People do seem to enjoy this place, but that might have something to do with the sample. If you’re visiting Oban, Pitlochry, or the Isle of Skye, you’ll find cheaper, less hokey distillery tours there. Serious connoisseurs of the Scottish firewater will want to pop into Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop at the bottom of the Royal Mile (described later).
Cost and Hours: £12.50, daily 10:00-18:30, last tour at 17:30, tel. 0131/220-0441, www.scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk.
The Hub (Tolbooth Church)—This Neo-Gothic church (1844), with the tallest spire in the city, is now The Hub, Edinburgh’s festival ticket and information center (for ticket information, see here). It also houses a handy café (£5-8 lunches, free Wi-Fi).
▲▲Gladstone’s Land—This is a typical 16th- to 17th-century merchant’s house. “Land” means tenement, and these multistory buildings—in which merchants ran their shops on the ground floor and lived upstairs—were typical of the time. (For an interesting comparison of life in the Old Town versus the New Town, also visit the Georgian House—described later.) Gladstone’s Land comes complete with an almost-lived-in, furnished interior and guides in each room who love to talk. Keep this place in mind as you stroll the rest of the Mile, imagining other houses as if they still looked like this on the inside.
Cost and Hours: £6, daily July-Aug 10:00-18:30, April-June and Sept-Oct 10:00-17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, closed Nov-March, no photos allowed, tel. 0844-493-2100, www.nts.org.uk.
Nearby: For a good Royal Mile photo, climb the curved stairway outside the museum to the left of the entrance (or to the right as you’re leaving). Notice the snoozing pig outside the front door. Just like every house has a vacuum cleaner today, in the good old days a snorting rubbish collector was a standard feature of any well-equipped house.
▲Writers’ Museum at Lady Stair’s House—This aristocrat’s house, built in 1622, is filled with well-described manuscripts and knickknacks of Scotland’s three greatest literary figures: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. Edinburgh’s high society would gather in homes like this in the 1780s to hear the great poet Robbie Burns read his work. Burns’ work is meant to be read aloud rather than to oneself. In the Burns room, you can hear his poetry—worth a few minutes for anyone, and essential for fans.
Wander around the courtyard here. Edinburgh was a wonder in the 17th and 18th centuries. Tourists came here to see its skyscrapers, which towered 10 stories and higher. No city in Europe was as densely populated—or polluted—as “Auld Reekie.”
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, closed Sun except during Festival 12:00-17:00, no photos, tel. 0131/529-4901.
Deacon Brodie’s Tavern—Read the “Doctor Jekyll and Mister Hyde” story of this pub’s notorious namesake on the wall facing Bank Street. Then, to see his spooky split personality, check out both sides of the hanging signpost.
• Deacon Brodie’s Tavern lies at the intersection of the Royal Mile and George IV Bridge. At this point, you may want to consider several detours. If you head down the street to your right, you’ll reach some recommended eateries (The Elephant House and The Outsider), as well as the excellent National Museum of Scotland, the famous Greyfriars Bobby statue, and the photogenic Victoria Street, which leads to the fun pub-lined Grassmarket square (all described later in this chapter). To your left, down Bank Street, is the Whiski Shop and the Museum on the Mound (free exhibit on banking history, described later). All are a five-minute walk from here.
Heart of Midlothian and Nearby—Near the street in front of the cathedral, a heart-shaped outline in the brickwork marks the spot of a gallows and the entrance to a prison (now long gone). Traditionally, locals stand on the rim of the heart and spit into it. Hitting the middle brings good luck. Go ahead...do as the locals do.
Across the street is a seated green statue of hometown boy David Hume (1711-1776)—one of the most influential thinkers not only of the Scottish Enlightenment, but in all of Western philosophy. (Fun fact: Born David Home, he changed the spelling of his name after getting tired of hearing the English say it without the correct Scottish pronunciation.)
Look around to understand Royal Mile plumbing. About 65 feet uphill is a wellhead (the square stone with a pyramid cap). This was the neighborhood well, served by the reservoir up at the castle before buildings had plumbing. Imagine long lines of people in need of water standing here, until buildings were finally retrofitted with water pipes—the ones you see running outside of buildings.
▲▲St. Giles’ Cathedral—This is Scotland’s most important church. Its ornate spire—the Scottish crown steeple from 1495—is a proud part of Edinburgh’s skyline. As the church functions as a kind of Westminster Abbey of Scotland, the interior is fascinating.
Cost and Hours: Free but donations encouraged, audioguide-£3, £2 to take photos; Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00 (until 19:00 Mon-Fri May-Sept), Sun 13:00-17:00; tel. 0131/225-9442, www.stgilescathedral.org.uk.
Concerts: St. Giles’ busy concert schedule includes organ recitals and visiting choirs (frequent free events at 12:15, concerts often Wed at 20:00 and Sun at 18:00, see schedule or ask for Music at St. Giles’ pamphlet in gift shop).
(See “St. Giles’ Cathedral” map, here)
Self-Guided Tour: Today’s facade is 19th-century Neo-Gothic, but most of what you’ll see inside is from the 14th and 15th centuries. You’ll also find cathedral guides trolling around, hoping you’ll engage them in conversation. You’ll be glad you did.
Just inside the entrance, turn around to see the modern stained-glass Robert Burns window, which celebrates Scotland’s favorite poet (see here). It was made in 1985 by the Icelandic artist Leifur Breidfjord. The green of the lower level symbolizes the natural world—God’s creation. The middle zone with the circle shows the brotherhood of man—Burns was a great internationalist. The top is a rosy red sunburst of creativity, reminding Scots of Burns’ famous line, “My love is like a red, red rose”—part of a song near and dear to every Scottish heart.
To the right of the Burns window is a fine Pre-Raphaelite window. Like most in the church, it’s a memorial to an important patron (in this case, John Marshall). From here stretches a great swath of war memorials.
As you walk along the north wall, find John Knox’s statue. (It has no set location; they move him around like a six-foot-tall bronze chess piece.) Look into his eyes for 10 seconds from 10 inches away, and think of the Reformation struggles of the 16th century. Knox, the great Reformer and founder of austere Scottish Presbyterianism, first preached here in 1559. His insistence that every person should be able to read the word of God gave Scotland an educational system 300 years ahead of the rest of Europe (for more on Knox, see “The Scottish Reformation” on here). Thanks partly to Knox, it was Scottish minds that led the way in math, science, medicine, and engineering. Voltaire called Scotland “the intellectual capital of Europe.”
Knox preached Calvinism. Consider that the Dutch and the Scots both embraced this creed of hard work, frugality, and strict ethics. This helps explain why Scots are so different from the English (and why the Dutch and the Scots—both famous for their thriftiness and industriousness—are so much alike).
The oldest parts of the cathedral—the four massive central pillars—date from 1120. After the English burned the cathedral, in 1385, it was rebuilt bigger and better than ever, and in 1495 its famous crown spire was completed. During the Reformation—when Knox preached here (1559-1572)—the place was simplified and whitewashed. Before this, when the emphasis was on holy services provided by priests, there were lots of little niches. With the new focus on sermons rather than rituals, the grand pulpit took center stage. Knox even had the church’s fancy medieval glass windows replaced with clear glass, but 19th-century Victorians took them out and installed the brilliantly colored ones you see today.
Cross over to the organ (1992, Austrian-built, one of Europe’s finest) and take in its sheer might. For a peek into the realm of the organist, duck around back to look through the glass panel.
Immediately to the right of the organ (as you’re facing it) is a tiny chapel for silence and prayer. The dramatic stained-glass window above (c. 1570) shows the commotion that surrounded Knox when he preached. Bearded, fiery-eyed Knox had a huge impact on this community. Notice how there were no pews back then. The church was so packed, people even looked through clear windows from across the street. With his hand on the holy book, Knox seems to conduct divine electricity to the Scottish faithful.
To the left of the organ as you face it, in the next alcove, is a copy of the National Covenant. It was signed in blood in 1638 by Scottish heroes who refused to compromise their religion for the king’s. Most who signed were martyred (their monument is nearby in Grassmarket).
Head toward the east (back) end of the church, and turn right to see the Neo-Gothic Chapel of the Knights of the Thistle (£2 donation requested) and its intricate wood carving. Built in two years (1910-1911), entirely with Scottish materials and labor, it is the private chapel of the Knights of the Thistle, the only Scottish chivalric order. It’s used about once a year to inaugurate new members. Scotland recognizes its leading citizens by bestowing upon them a membership. The Queen presides over the ritual from her fancy stall, marked by her Scottish coat of arms—a heraldic zoo of symbolism. Are there bagpipes in heaven? Find the tooting angel at a ceiling joint to the left of the altar.
Downstairs is an inviting, recommended café, along with handy public toilets.
Just outside, behind the church, is the burial spot of John Knox—with appropriate austerity, he’s under the parking lot, at spot 23. The statue among the cars shows King Charles II riding to a toga party back in 1685.
• Near parking spot 15, at the No. 11 Door, enter the...
Old Parliament House—The building now holds the civil law courts, so you’ll need to go through security first; stay to the left to allow lawyers to get waved through quickly. Step in to see the grand hall, with its fine 1639 hammer-beam ceiling and stained glass. This space housed the Scottish parliament until the Act of Union in 1707. Find the big stained-glass depiction of the initiation of the first Scottish High Court in 1532. Just under it, you’ll find a history exhibition explaining the Scottish parliament. The building now holds the civil law courts and is busy with wigged and robed lawyers hard at work in the old library (peek through the door) or pacing the hall deep in discussion. Look for the “Box Corridor,” a hallway filled with haphazard mailboxes for attorneys (the white dot indicates which lawyers have email). The friendly doorman is helpful. The cleverly named Writz Café, in the basement, is literally their supreme court’s restaurant (cheap, Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00, closed Sat-Sun).
Cost and Hours: Free, public welcome Mon-Fri 9:00-16:30, closed Sat-Sun, no photos, enter behind St. Giles’ Cathedral; open-to-the-public trials are just across the street at the High Court—doorman has day’s docket.
▲Mary King’s Close—For an unusual peek at Edinburgh’s gritty, plague-ridden past, join a costumed performer on an hour-long trip through an excavated underground street and buildings on the northern slope of the Royal Mile. Tours cover the standard goofy, crowd-pleasing ghost stories, but also provide authentic and interesting historical insight into a part of town entombed by later construction. It’s best to book ahead on their website—even though tours leave every 20 minutes, groups are small and the sight is popular.
Cost and Hours: £12.50; April-Oct daily 10:00-21:00, Aug until 23:00; Nov-March daily 10:00-17:00, Fri-Sat until 21:00; these are last tour times, no kids under 5, across from St. Giles’ at 2 Warriston’s Close, tel. 0845-070-6244, www.realmarykingsclose.com.
Mercat Cross—This chunky pedestal, on the downhill side of St. Giles’, holds a slender column topped with a white unicorn. Royal proclamations have been read at this market cross since the 14th century. In 1952, a town crier heralded the news that Britain had a new queen—three days (traditionally the time it took for a horse to speed here from London) after the actual event. Today, Mercat Cross is the meeting point of various walking tours—both historic and ghostly.
• A few doors downhill is the...
Police Information Center—This center provides a pleasant police presence (say that three times) and a little local law-and-order history to boot. Ask the officer on duty about the grave-robber William Burke’s skin and creative poetic justice, Edinburgh-style. Seriously—drop in and discuss whatever law-and-order issue piques your curiosity.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-17:30, Aug until 21:30, may close during lunch.
Nearby: Along this stretch of the Royal Mile, which is traffic-free most of the day (notice the bollards that raise and lower for permitted traffic), you’ll see the Fringe Festival office (at #180), street musicians, and another wellhead (with horse “sippies,” dating from 1675).
Cockburn Street—This street (pronounced “COE-burn”) was cut through High Street’s dense wall of medieval skyscrapers in the 1860s to give easy access to the Georgian New Town and the train station. Notice how the sliced buildings were thoughtfully capped with facades in a faux-16th-century Scottish baronial style. In the Middle Ages, only tiny lanes (like the Fleshmarket Lane just uphill from Cockburn Street) interrupted the long line of Royal Mile buildings.
• Continue downhill 100 yards to the...
▲Museum of Childhood—This five-story playground of historical toys and games is rich in nostalgia and history. Each well-signed gallery is as jovial as a Norman Rockwell painting, highlighting the delights and simplicity of childhood. The museum does a fair job of representing culturally relevant oddities, such as ancient Egyptian, Peruvian, and Voodoo dolls, and displays early versions of toys it’s probably best didn’t make the final cut (a grim snake-centered pre-cursor to the popular board game Chutes and Ladders is one example).
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 12:00-17:00, last entry 15 minutes before closing.
Nearby: Just downhill is a fragrant fudge shop offering delicious free samples.
▲John Knox House—Intriguing for Reformation buffs, this fine 16th-century house offers a well-explained look at the life of the great reformer. Although most contend he never actually lived here, preservationists called it “Knox’s house” to save it from the wrecking ball in 1850. On the top floor is a fun photo op with a dress-up cape, hat, and feather pen.
Cost and Hours: £4.25, Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00, closed Sun except in July-Aug 12:00-18:00, 43 High Street, tel. 0131/556-9579.
The World’s End—For centuries, a wall halfway down the Royal Mile marked the end of Edinburgh and the beginning of Canongate, a community associated with Holyrood Abbey. Today, where the Mile hits St. Mary’s and Jeffrey streets, High Street becomes Canongate. Just below the John Knox House (at #43), notice the hanging sign showing the old gate. At the intersection, find the brass bricks that trace the gate (demolished in 1764). The cornerside pub, No. 1 High Street, a centrally located venue for live traditional music—pop in and see what’s on tonight. Look down St. Mary’s Street about 200 yards to see a surviving bit of that old wall.
• Entering Canongate, you leave what was Edinburgh and head for...
▲Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop—The shop is not a tourist sight. Founded in 1842, this firm prides itself on bottling good malt whisky from casks straight from the best distilleries, without all the compromises that come with profitable mass production (coloring with sugar to fit the expected look, watering down to lessen the alcohol tax, and so on). Those drinking from Cadenhead-bottled whiskies will enjoy the pure product as the distilleries’ owners themselves do, not as the sorry public does.
If you want to learn about whisky—and perhaps pick up a bottle—chat up Mark, Neil, and Alan, who love to talk. To buy whisky by the bottle here, ask for a sample first. Sip once. Consider the flavor. Add a little water and sip again. Buy a small bottle of your favorite (£12 for about 7 ounces) and enjoy it in your hotel room night after night. Unlike wine, it has a long shelf life after it’s opened. If you want to savor it post-trip, keep in mind that customs laws prohibit you from shipping whisky home, so you’ll have to pack it in your checked luggage. Fortunately, the bottles are extremely durable—just ask the staff to demonstrate.
Cost and Hours: Free entry, Mon-Sat 10:30-17:30, closed Sun except possibly in Aug 12:30-17:30, 172 Canongate, tel. 0131/556-5864, www.wmcadenhead.com.
Whisky Tastings: Every other Thursday, Mark hosts a tasting for experts and novices alike at The Tolbooth Tavern, across from the shop. These chatty, very local events feature five whiskies and get progressively more hilarious as the night goes on (£15-20, reserve ahead, 167 Canongate, tel. 0131/556-5864, www.jollytopertastings.co.uk).
▲People’s Story—This interesting exhibition traces the conditions of the working class through the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. Curiously, while this museum is dedicated to the proletariat, immediately around the back (embedded in the wall of the museum) is the tomb of Adam Smith—the author of Wealth of Nations and the father of modern free-market capitalism (1723-1790).
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, closed Sun except during Festival 12:00-17:00, last entry 15 minutes before closing, tel. 0131/529-4057, www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk.
▲Museum of Edinburgh—Another old house full of old stuff, this one is worth a look for its early Edinburgh history and handy ground-floor WC. Be sure to see the original copy of the National Covenant (written in 1638 on an animal skin), sketches of pre-Georgian Edinburgh (which show a lake, later filled in to become Princes Street Gardens when the New Town was built), and early golf balls. A favorite Scottish say-it-aloud joke: “Balls,” said the queen. “If I had two, I’d be king.” The king laughed—he had to.
Cost and Hours: Free, same hours as People’s Story—listed above, tel. 0131/529-4143, www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk.
White Horse Close—Step into this 17th-century courtyard (bottom of Canongate, on the left, a block before the Palace of Holyroodhouse). It was from here that the Edinburgh stagecoach left for London. Eight days later, the horse-drawn carriage would pull into its destination: Scotland Yard.
• Across the street is the...
▲▲Scottish Parliament Building—Scotland’s parliament originated in 1293 and was dissolved by England in 1707. In 1998, it was decided that “there shall be a Scottish parliament guided by justice, wisdom, integrity, and compassion,” and in 1999, it was formally reopened by Queen Elizabeth. Except for matters of defense, foreign policy, and taxation, Scotland now enjoys home rule. The current government, run by the Scottish Nationalist Party, is pushing for more independence.
In 2004, the Parliament moved into its striking new home. Although its cost ($800 million) and perceived extravagance made it controversial from the start, an in-person visit wins most people over. The eco-friendly building, by the Catalan architect Enric Miralles, mixes wild angles, lots of light, bold windows, oak, and native stone into a startling complex that would, as he envisioned, “arise from the sloping base of Arthur’s Seat and arrive into the city as if almost surging out of the rock.”
Since it celebrates Scottish democracy, the architecture is not a statement of authority. There are no statues of old heroes. There’s not even a grand entry. You feel like you’re entering an office park. The building is people-oriented. Signs are written in both English and Gaelic (the Scots’ Celtic tongue). Anyone is welcome to attend the committee meetings (viewable by live video hookups throughout the nation’s libraries).
For a peek at the building and a lesson in how the Scottish parliament works, drop in, pass through security, and find the visitors’ desk. You’re welcome into the public parts of the building, including the impressive “Debating Chambers.” Worthwhile hour-long tours by proud locals are offered (free, usually Mon and Fri-Sat, call or check online for times and details). Or you can call or sign up online to witness the Scottish parliament’s hugely popular debates—best on Thursdays 12:00-12:30, when the First Minister is on the hot seat and has to field questions from members across all parties (other debate slots usually Wed 14:00-18:00, Thu 9:00-11:40 & 14:00-18:00, tel. 0131/348-5200).
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Fri 10:00-17:30, until 16:00 Oct-March, Tue-Thu 9:00-18:30 when Parliament in session, Sat 11:00-17:30 year-round, closed Sun, last entry 30 minutes before closing, www.scottish.parliament.uk. Generally Parliament is in recess for a week in February, two weeks at Easter, from early July to early September, two weeks in October, and around Christmas—dates are posted on their website.
▲Palace of Holyroodhouse—Since the 14th century, this palace has marked the end of the Royal Mile. An abbey—part of a 12th-century Augustinian monastery—originally stood in its place. It was named for a piece of the cross brought here as a relic by Queen (and later Saint) Margaret. Because Scotland’s royalty preferred living at Holyroodhouse to the blustery castle on the rock, the palace evolved over time.
Consider touring the interior. The building, rich in history and decor, is filled with elegantly furnished rooms and a few darker, older rooms with glass cases of historic bits and Scottish pieces that locals find fascinating.
Bring the palace to life with the included one-hour audioguide. You’ll learn which of the kings featured in the 110 portraits lining the Great Gallery are real and which are fictional, what touches were added to the bedchambers to flatter King Charles II, and why the exiled Comte d’Artois took refuge in the palace. You’ll also hear a goofy reenactment of the moment when conspirators—dispatched by Mary, Queen of Scots’ jealous second husband—stormed into the queen’s chambers and stabbed her male secretary. Royal diehards can pick up a palace guidebook for £4.50.
Cost and Hours: £10.75 includes a quality audioguide, £15.10 combo-ticket includes Queen’s Gallery—listed below, tickets sold in Queen’s Gallery, daily April-Oct 9:30-18:00, Nov-March until 16:30, last entry one hour before closing, tel. 0131/556-5100, www.royalcollection.org.uk. It’s still a working palace, so it’s closed when the Queen or other VIPs are in residence.
Nearby: After exiting the palace, you’re free to stroll through the ruined abbey (destroyed by those dastardly English during the time of Mary, Queen of Scots, in the 16th century) and the queen’s gardens (closed in winter). Hikers: Note that the wonderful trail up Arthur’s Seat starts just across the street from the gardens (see here for details).
Queen’s Gallery—This small museum features rotating exhibits of artwork from the royal collection. For more than five centuries, the royal family has amassed a wealth of art treasures. While the Queen keeps most in her many private palaces, she shares an impressive load of it here, with exhibits changing about every six months. Though the gallery occupies just a few rooms, it can be exquisite. The entry fee includes an excellent audioguide, written and read by the curator.
Cost and Hours: £6, £15.10 combo-ticket includes Palace of Holyroodhouse, daily April-Oct 9:30-18:00, Nov-March until 16:30, café, last entry one hour before closing, on the palace grounds, to the right of the palace entrance, www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buses #35 and #36 stop outside, and can save you a walk to or from Princes Street/North Bridge.
▲▲▲National Museum of Scotland—This huge museum has amassed more historic artifacts than every other place I’ve seen in Scotland combined. It’s all wonderfully displayed, with fine descriptions offering a best-anywhere hike through the history of Scotland. Start in the basement and work your way through the story: prehistoric, Roman, Viking, the “birth of Scotland,” Edinburgh’s witch-burning craze, clan massacres, all the way to life in the 21st century.
The Kingdom of the Scots exhibit, on the first three floors, shows evidence of a vibrant young nation. While largely cut off from Europe by hostilities with England, Scotland connected with the Continent through trade, the Church, and their monarch, Mary, Queen of Scots. Throughout Scotland’s long, underdog struggle with England, its people found inspiration from romantic (and almost legendary) Scottish leaders, including Mary. Educated and raised in France during the Renaissance, Mary brought refinement to the Scottish throne. After she was imprisoned and then executed by the English, her countrymen rallied each other by invoking her memory. Pendants and coins with her portrait stoked the irrepressible Scottish spirit. Near the replica of Mary’s tomb are tiny cameos, pieces of jewelry, and coins with her image.
The industry exhibit explains how (eventually) the Scots were tamed, and the union with England brought stability and investment to Scotland. Powered by the Scottish work ethic and the new opportunities that came from the Industrial Revolution, the country came into relative prosperity. Education and medicine thrived. Cast iron and foundries were huge, and this became one of the most industrialized places in Europe. With the dawn of the modern age came leisure time, the concept of “healthful sports,” and golf—a Scottish invention. The first golf balls, which date from about 1820, were leather stuffed with feathers.
In 2011, the museum reopened its fine iron-and-glass Industrial Age wing after an extensive remodel. Once called the Royal Museum, it now hosts exhibits on European, international, and natural history.
The roof Terrace, on level 7, offers one of the city’s best views of the castle and other major landmarks from high above—for free. Follow signs to the Terrace Lift and enjoy a tranquil break from the bustle below (Terrace closes 10 minutes before the museum, earlier in winter).
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-17:00; free 1-hour “Highlights” tours daily at 11:30 and 13:30, themed tours at 14:30—confirm tour schedule at info desk or on TV screens; 2 long blocks south of Royal Mile from St. Giles’ Cathedral, Chambers Street, off George IV Bridge, tel. 0131/247-4422, www.nms.ac.uk.
Eating: On the museum’s top floor, the upscale Tower restaurant serves surprisingly good food with a castle view (£16 two-course lunch special, £16 afternoon tea 15:00-17:00, £30 three-course dinner special, fancy £18-25 meals, open daily 12:00-23:00—later than the museum itself, tel. 0131/225-3003).
Greyfriars Bobby—This famous statue of Edinburgh’s favorite dog is across the street from the National Museum of Scotland. Every business nearby, it seems, is named for this Victorian terrier, who is reputed to have stood by his master’s grave for 14 years. The story was immortalized in a 1960s Disney flick, but recent research suggests that 19th-century businessmen bribed a stray to hang out in the cemetery to attract sightseers. If it was a ruse, it still works.
Grassmarket—Once Edinburgh’s site for hangings (residents rented out their windows—above the rudely named “Last Drop” pub—for the view), today Grassmarket is being renovated into a people-friendly piazza. It was originally the city’s garage, a depot for horses and cows (hence the name). It’s rowdy here at night—a popular place for “hen” and “stag” parties. During the day, the literary pub tour departs from here. Budget shoppers might want to look at Armstrongs, a fun secondhand-clothing store. Victoria Street, built in the Victorian Age and lined with colorful little shops and eateries, was built to connect Grassmarket and High Street.
Hiding in the blur of traffic is a monument to the “Covenanters.” These strict 17th-century Scottish Protestants were killed for refusing to accept the king’s Episcopalian prayer book. To this day, Scots celebrate their emphatically democratic church government. Rather than big-shot bishops (as in the Anglican or Roman Catholic churches), they have a low-key “moderator” who’s elected each year.
Whiski Shop—The knowledgeable staff in this unpretentious shop just off the Royal Mile happily assists novices and experts alike select the right bottle. They also offer tastings: £15 Intro to Whisky or £25 Mature Whisky, a.k.a. the really good stuff (about 1 hour, 4 tastes, £2 off a bottle if you buy after you taste; call to make an appointment in peak season; daily 10:00-19:00, later in Aug, 4-7 North Bank Street, tel. 0131/225-1532, www.whiskishop.com).
Museum on the Mound—Located in the basement of the grand Bank of Scotland building (easily spotted from a distance), this exhibit tells the story of the bank, which was founded in 1695 (making it only a year younger than the Bank of England). Featuring displays on cash production, safe technology, and bank robberies, this museum struggles mightily, with some success, to make banking interesting (the case holding £1 million is cool). It’s worth popping in if you have some time or find the subject appealing. But no matter how well the information is presented, it’s still about...yawn...banking.
Cost and Hours: Free, Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, closed Mon, down Bank Street from the Royal Mile—follow the street around to the left and enter through the gate, tel. 0131/243-5464, www.museumonthemound.com.
Dynamic Earth—Located about a five-minute walk from the Palace of Holyroodhouse, this immense exhibit tells the story of our planet, filling several underground floors under a vast, white Gore-Tex tent. It’s pitched, appropriately, at the base of the Salisbury Crags. The exhibit is designed for younger kids and does the same thing an American science exhibit would do—but with a charming Scottish accent. Standing in a time tunnel, you watch the years rewind from Churchill to dinosaurs to the Big Bang. After viewing several short films on stars, tectonic plates, ice caps, and worldwide weather (in a “4-D” exhibit), you’re free to wander past salty pools, a re-created rain forest, and various TV screens.
Cost and Hours: £11.50, daily 10:00-17:30, July-Aug until 18:00, Nov-March closed Mon-Tue, last ticket sold 2 hours before closing, on Holyrood Road, between the palace and mountain, tel. 0131/550-7800, www.dynamicearth.co.uk. Dynamic Earth is a stop on the hop-on, hop-off bus route.
▲▲Georgian New Town—Cross Waverley Bridge and walk through the Georgian New Town. According to the 1776 plan, the New Town was three streets (Princes, George, and Queen) flanked by two squares (St. Andrew and Charlotte), woven together by alleys (Thistle and Rose). George Street—20 feet wider than the others (so a four-horse carriage could make a U-turn)—was the main drag. And, while Princes Street has gone down-market, George Street still maintains its old grace. The entire elegantly planned New Town—laid out when George III was king—celebrated the hard-to-sell notion that Scotland was an integral part of the United Kingdom. The streets and squares are named after the British royalty (Hanover was the royal family surname). Even Thistle and Rose Streets (the national flowers of Scotland and England, respectively) are emblems of the two happily paired nations. Mostly pedestrianized Rose Street is famous for its rowdy pubs; where it hits St. Andrew Square, the street is flanked by the venerable Jenners department store and a Sainsbury’s supermarket. Sprinkled with popular restaurants and bars, the stately New Town is turning trendy.
Princes Street—Edinburgh’s main drag may be torn up for tram construction during your visit. If it’s patched up, it’ll be busy with buses and taxis. Jenners department store is an institution. Notice how statues of women support the building—just as real women support the business. The arrival of new fashions here was such a big deal that they’d announce it by flying flags on the Nelson Monument. Step inside. The central space—filled with a towering tree at Christmas—is classic Industrial Age architecture. The Queen’s coat of arms high on the wall indicates she shops here.
St. Andrew Square—This green space bookends the New Town opposite Charlotte Square. In the early 19th century, there were no shops around here—just fine residences; this was a private garden for the fancy people living here. Now open to the public, the square is a popular lunch hangout for workers. The Melville Monument honors a powermonger Member of Parliament who, for four decades (around 1800), was nicknamed the “uncrowned king of Scotland.”
St. Andrew’s and St. George’s Church—Designed as part of the New Town in the 1780s, the church is a product of the Scottish Enlightenment. It has an elliptical plan (the first in Britain) so that all can focus on the pulpit. A fine leaflet tells the story of the church, and a handy cafeteria downstairs serves cheap and cheery lunches (see here).
▲▲Georgian House—This refurbished Neoclassical house, set on Edinburgh’s finest Georgian square, is a trip back to 1796. It recounts the era when a newly gentrified and well-educated Edinburgh was nicknamed the “Athens of the North.” A volunteer guide in each of the five rooms shares stories and trivia—from the kitchen in the basement to the fully stocked medicine cabinet in the bedroom. Start your visit in the basement and view the interesting 16-minute video, which shows the life of the first family who owned this property and touches on the architecture of the Georgian period. A walk down George Street after your visit here can be fun for the imagination.
Cost and Hours: £6, daily April-Oct 10:00-17:00, July-Aug until 18:00, March 11:00-16:00, Nov 11:00-15:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, closed Dec-Feb, 7 Charlotte Square, tel. 0844-493-2117, www.nts.org.uk.
▲▲National Gallery of Scotland—The elegant Neoclassical building has a delightfully small but impressive collection of European masterpieces, from Raphael, Titian, and Peter Paul Rubens to Thomas Gainsborough, Claude Monet, Cézanne, and Vincent van Gogh. A highlight (along with guards in plaid trousers) is Canova’s exquisite Three Graces. The museum offers the best look you’ll get at Scottish paintings (in the basement), including one of Scotland’s best-known paintings, The Skating Minister, by Sir Henry Raeburn, which is housed among the Impressionists on the first floor. There’s no audioguide, but each painting is well-described.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-17:00, Thu until 19:00, no photos, The Mound (between Princes and Market streets), tel. 0131/624-6200, www.nationalgalleries.org.
Next Door: The skippable Royal Scottish Academy hosts temporary art exhibits and is connected to the National Gallery at the garden level (underneath the gallery) by the Weston Link building (same hours as the gallery, fine café and restaurant).
National Portrait Gallery—From its Neo-Gothic facade to a grand entry hall featuring a Who’s Who of Scotland frieze, this museum is more impressive than it might sound. Start on the second floor, where characters from Scotland’s turbulent history preside. Work your way through notable figures spanning the 16th to 19th centuries, from Mary Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie to David Hume and Robert Burns. The first floor trumpets people and events that helped shape the 20th century, including the stirring portrait of Three Oncologists from Dundee, a city renowned in Scotland for cancer research. For an almost eye-level view of the Great Hall frieze, pause on the first floor and spot your favorite historic Scot before descending to the ground-level gallery of present-day influential citizens. For a unique, lighthearted, self-guided tour, consider following the Best Wee Nation & The World trail examining Scottish influence around the globe (one of five brochures that outlines a specific path for exploring the museum; available at info desk). Use the interactive touchscreens throughout the museum for more information (free, daily 10:00-17:00, Thu until 19:00—when occasionally there is live music at 18:00; good cafeteria serving soups, sandwiches, and heartier fare, £5-7, café closes 30 minutes before museum; 1 Queen Street, tel. 0131/624-6490, www.nationalgalleries.org).
The Mound—The National Gallery sits upon what’s known as “The Mound.” When the lake was drained and the Georgian New Town was built, rubble from the excavations was piled into The Mound (c. 1770) to allay Old Town merchant concerns about being disconnected from the future heart of the city. The two fine Neoclassical buildings here (which house museums) date from the 1840s. From The Mound, you can enjoy fine views of “Auld Reekie” (medieval Edinburgh), with its 10-story-plus “skyscrapers.”
Princes Street Gardens—The grassy park, a former lakebed, separates Edinburgh’s New and Old towns and offers a wonderful escape from the bustle of the city. Once the private domain of the wealthy, it was opened to the public around 1870—not as a democratic gesture, but because it was thought that allowing the public into the park would increase sales for the Princes Street department stores. Join the office workers for a picnic lunch break, or see the oldest floral clock in the world.
In summer, you can watch Scottish country dancing in the park (£3.50, May-July Mon 19:30-21:30, at Ross Bandstand, also ask about summer dances held Tue at St. Peter’s Church on Lutton Place—near recommended Dalkeith Road B&Bs, tel. 0131/228-8616, www.princesstreetgardensdancing.org.uk).
The big lake, Nor’ Loch, was drained around 1800 as part of the Georgian expansion of Edinburgh. Before that, the lake was the town’s sewer, water reservoir, and a handy place for drowning witches. Much was written about the town’s infamous stink (a.k.a. the “flowers of Edinburgh”). The town’s nickname, “Auld Reekie,” referred to both the smoke of its industry and the stench of its squalor. Although the loch is now long gone, memories of the countless women drowned as witches remain. With their thumbs tied to their ankles, they’d be lashed to dunking stools. Those who survived the ordeal were considered “aided by the devil” and burned as witches. If they died, they were innocent and given a good Christian burial. Until 1720, Edinburgh was Europe’s witch-burning mecca—any perceived “sign,” including a small birthmark, could condemn you.
▲Sir Walter Scott Monument—Built in 1840, this elaborate Neo-Gothic monument honors the great author, one of Edinburgh’s many illustrious sons. When Scott died in 1832, it was said that “Scotland never owed so much to one man.” To all of Western literature, he’s considered the father of the Romantic historical novel. The 200-foot monument shelters a marble statue of Scott and his favorite pet, Maida, a deerhound who was one of 30 canines this dog-lover owned during his lifetime. They’re surrounded by busts of 16 great Scottish poets and 64 characters from his books. Climbing the tight, stony spiral staircase of 287 steps earns you a peek at a tiny museum midway, a fine city view at the top, and intimate encounters going up and down.
Cost and Hours: £3; daily April-Sept 10:00-19:00, Oct-March 10:00-16:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 0131/529-4068.
▲▲Arthur’s Seat Hike—A 45-minute hike up the 822-foot remains of an extinct volcano (surrounded by a fine park overlooking Edinburgh) starts from the Palace of Holyroodhouse. You can run up like they did in Chariots of Fire, or just stroll—at the summit, you’ll be rewarded with commanding views of the town and surroundings. On May Day, be on the summit at dawn and wash your face in the morning dew to commemorate the Celtic holiday of Beltaine, the celebration of spring. (Morning dew is supposedly very good for your complexion.)
From the parking lot below the Palace of Holyroodhouse, there are two trailheads. Take the wide path on the left (easier grade, through the abbey ruins and “Hunter’s Bog”). After making the summit, you can return along the other path (to the right, with the steps), which skirts the base of the cliffs.
Those staying at my recommended B&Bs can enjoy a pre-breakfast or late-evening hike starting from the other side (in June, the sun comes up early, and it stays light until nearly midnight). From the Commonwealth Pool, take Holyrood Park Road, turn right on Queen’s Drive, and continue to a small parking lot. From here it’s a 20-minute hike.
If you have a car, you can drive up most of the way from behind (follow the one-way street from the palace, park safely and for free by the little lake, and hike up).
More Hikes—You can hike along the river (called Water of Leith) through Edinburgh. Locals favor the stretch between Roseburn and Dean Village, but the 1.5-mile walk from Dean Village to the Royal Botanic Garden is also good. For more information on these and other hikes, ask at the TI for the free Walks In and Around Edinburgh one-page flier (if it’s unavailable, consider their £3 guide to walks).
Brush Skiing—If you like skiing, but not all that pesky snow, head a little south of town to Hillend, where the Midlothian Snowsports Centre has a hill with a chairlift, two slopes, a jump slope, and rentable skis, boots, and poles. It feels like snow-skiing on a slushy day, even though you’re schussing over what seems like a million toothbrushes. Beware: Doctors are used to treating an ailment called “Hillend Thumb”—thumbs dislocated when people fall here and get tangled in the brush. Locals say that skiing here is “like falling on a carrot grater.”
Cost and Hours: £12/first hour, then £5.30/hour, includes gear, beginners must take a lesson, generally Mon-Tue 18:30-22:00, Wed 13:00-20:00, Thu-Fri 18:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 14:00-19:00—but call to confirm before showing up, probably closes if it snows, Lothian bus #4 or #15 from Princes Street—garden side, tel. 0131/445-4433, www.midlothian.gov.uk.
The Royal Commonwealth Pool—After a lengthy renovation, the swimming facility has reopened, complete with a 50-meter pool, gym/fitness studio, and kids’ soft play zone (day pass for pool £5.50, or £13 for family, £7 for gym, £20 for family swim and soft play package; Mon-Fri 5:30-22:00, Sat 5:30-20:00, Sun 7:30-20:00; open swim nearly all the time but not Sat-Sun after 13:00; lockers available but no towels; tel. 0131/667-7211, www.edinburghleisure.co.uk).
Prestonfield Golf Club—At the foot of Arthur’s Seat, just a mile and a half from town (and easy walking distance from my recommended Dalkeith Road B&Bs), the Prestonfield Golf Club has golfers feeling like they’re in a country estate (£32-38/person plus £15-20 for clubs; dress code enforced—no jeans, shorts, T-shirts, sweats, or tennis shoes; 6 Priestfield Road North, tel. 0131/667-9665, www.prestonfieldgolf.com).
Shopping—The streets to browse are Princes Street (the elegant old Jenners department store is nearby on Rose Street, at St. Andrew Square), Victoria Street (antiques galore), Nicolson Street (south of the Royal Mile, line of interesting secondhand stores), and the Royal Mile (touristy but competitively priced). Shops are usually open 10:00-18:00 (later on Thu).
▲▲Britannia—This much-revered vessel, which transported Britain’s royal family for more than 40 years and 900 voyages before being retired in 1997, is permanently moored at the Ocean Terminal Shopping Mall in Edinburgh’s port of Leith. It’s open to the public and worth the 15-minute bus or taxi ride from the center; figure on spending about 2.5 hours total on the outing.
Cost and Hours: £11.75, daily July-Sept 9:30-16:30, April-June and Oct 9:30-16:00, Nov-March 10:00-15:30, these are last-entry times, tearoom, tel. 0131/555-5566, www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk.
Getting There: From central Edinburgh, catch Lothian bus #11, #22, #34, or #35 at Waverley Bridge to Ocean Terminal. If you’re doing a city bus tour, consider the Majestic Tour, which includes transportation to the Britannia (see here). Entrance to the museum is on the second floor at the north (right) end of the shopping center.
Visiting the Ship: Explore the museum, filled with engrossing royal-family-afloat history. Then, armed with your included 90-minute audioguide, you’re welcome aboard.
This was the last in a line of royal yachts that stretches back to 1660. With all its royal functions, the ship required a crew of more than 200. The captain’s bridge feels like it’s been preserved from the day it was launched in 1953. Queen Elizabeth II, who enjoyed the ship for 40 years, said, “This is the only place I can truly relax.” The Sunny Lounge, just off the back Veranda Deck, was the Queen’s favorite, with teak from Burma (now Myanmar, in Southeast Asia) and the same phone system she was used to in Buckingham Palace.
The back deck was the favorite place for outdoor entertainment. Ronald Reagan, Boris Yeltsin, Bill Clinton, and Nelson Mandela all sipped champagne here with the Queen. When she wasn’t entertaining, the Queen liked it quiet. The crew wore sneakers, communicated in hand signals, and (at least near the Queen’s quarters) had to be finished with all their work by 8:00 in the morning.
The state dining room, decorated with gifts given by the ship’s many noteworthy guests, enabled the Queen to entertain a good-size crowd. The silver pantry was just down the hall. The drawing room, while rather simple, was perfect for casual relaxing among royals. Princess Diana played the piano, which is bolted to the deck. Royal family photos evoke the fine times the Windsors enjoyed on the Britannia. Visitors can also see the crew’s quarters and engine room.
Rosslyn Chapel—Founded in 1446 by the Sinclair family, this church is a fascinating riot of carved iconography. The patterned ceiling and walls have left scholars guessing about its symbolism for centuries, particularly questioning if there’s a link to the Knights Templar and the Masons. But much of the speculation, especially the Da Vinci Code connections, has been debunked.
Cost and Hours: £9, Mon-Sat 9:30-18:00, until 17:00 Oct-March, Sun 12:00-16:45 year-round, last entry 30 minutes before closing, no photos, located in Roslin Village, www.rosslynchapel.org.uk.
Getting There: Ride Lothian bus #15 from the station at St. Andrew Square (1-2/hour). By car, take the A-701 to Penicuik/Peebles, and follow signs for Roslin; once you’re in the village, you’ll see signs for the chapel.
Royal Botanic Garden—Britain’s second-oldest botanical garden (after Oxford) was established in 1670 for medicinal herbs, and this 70-acre refuge is now one of Europe’s best.
Cost and Hours: Gardens free, greenhouse admission-£4, daily 10:00-18:00, Nov-Jan until 16:00, 1-hour tours April-Sept daily at 10:00 and 14:00 for £3, café, a mile north of the city center at Inverleith Row; take Lothian bus #8, #23, or #27; Majestic Tour stops here (see here), tel. 0131/552-7171, www.rbge.org.uk.
Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art—This museum, about a mile west of Edinburgh, offers a handful of exhibits, including paintings by Matisse and Picasso, and an outdoor sculpture park (free, daily 10:00-17:00, Aug until 18:00, 20-minute walk from city center, 75 Belford Road, tel. 0131/624-6336, www.nationalgalleries.org).
One of Europe’s great cultural events, Edinburgh’s annual festival turns the city into a carnival of the arts. There are enough music, dance, drama, and multicultural events to make even the most jaded traveler giddy with excitement. Every day is jammed with formal and spontaneous fun. A riot of festivals—official, fringe, book, and jazz and blues—rages simultaneously for about three weeks each August, with the Military Tattoo starting a week earlier (the best overall website is www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk). Many city sights run on extended hours, and those along the Royal Mile that are normally closed on Sunday are open in the afternoon. It’s a glorious time to be in Edinburgh—if you have (and can afford) a room.
The official Edinburgh International Festival (Aug 9-Sept 1 in 2013) is the original—it’s more formal, and most likely to get booked up. Major events sell out well in advance. The ticket office is at The Hub, located in the former Tolbooth Church, near the top of the Royal Mile (tickets-£5-72, booking from late March, office open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00 or longer, in Aug 9:00-19:30 plus Sun 10:00-19:30, tel. 0131/473-2000, www.hubtickets.co.uk or www.eif.co.uk).
Call and order your ticket through The Hub with your credit-card number. Pick up your ticket at the office on the day of the show or at the venue before showtime. Several publications—including the festival’s official schedule, the Edinburgh Festivals Guide Daily, The List, the Fringe Program, and the Daily Diary—list and evaluate festival events.
The less-formal Fringe Festival, featuring “on the edge” comedy and theater, is huge—with 2,000 shows—and desperate for an audience (Aug 2-26 in 2013, ticket/info office just below St. Giles’ Cathedral on the Royal Mile, 180 High Street, tel. 0131/226-0026, bookings tel. 0131/226-0000, can book online from mid-June on, www.edfringe.com). Tickets may be available at the door, and half-price tickets for some events are sold on the day of the show at the Half-Price Hut, located at the Mound, by the National Gallery (daily 10:00-21:00).
The Military Tattoo is a massing of bands, drums, and bagpipes, with groups from all over the former British Empire. Displaying military finesse with a stirring lone-piper finale, this grand spectacle fills the Castle Esplanade nightly except Sunday, normally from a week before the festival starts until a week before it finishes (Aug 2-24 in 2013, Mon-Fri at 21:00, Sat at 19:30 and 22:30, £25-60, booking starts in Dec, Fri-Sat shows sell out first, all seats generally sold out by early summer, some scattered same-day tickets may be available; office open Mon-Fri 10:00-16:30, closed Sat-Sun, during Tattoo open until show time and Sat 10:00-22:30, closed Sun; 32 Market Street, behind Waverley Station, tel. 0131/225-1188, www.edintattoo.co.uk). The last day is filmed by the BBC and later broadcast as a big national television special.
The Festival of Politics, adding yet another dimension to Edinburgh’s festival action, is held in August in the Scottish Parliament building. It’s a busy four days of discussions and lectures on environmentalism, globalization, terrorism, gender, and other issues (www.festivalofpolitics.org.uk).
Other summer festivals cover jazz and blues (early August, tel. 0131/467-5200, www.edinburghjazzfestival.co.uk), film (mid-June, tel. 0131/228-4051, www.edfilmfest.org.uk), and books (mid-late August, tel. 0131/718-5666, www.edbookfest.co.uk).
If you do plan to hit Edinburgh during a festival, book a room far in advance and extend your stay by a day or two. Once you know your dates, reserve tickets to any show you really want to see.
▲▲Literary Pub Tour—This two-hour walk is interesting even if you think Sir Walter Scott was an Antarctic explorer. You’ll follow the witty dialogue of two actors as they debate whether the great literature of Scotland was high art or the creative re-creation of fun-loving louts fueled by a love of whisky. You’ll wander from the Grassmarket, over the Old Town to the New Town, with stops in three pubs as your guides share their takes on Scotland’s literary greats. The tour meets at The Beehive pub on Grassmarket (£10, book online and save £1, May-Sept nightly at 19:30, March-April and Oct Thu-Sun, Nov-Feb Fri only, call 0800-169-7410 to confirm, www.edinburghliterarypubtour.co.uk).
▲Ghost Walks—These walks are an entertaining and cheap night out (offered nightly, most around 19:00 and 21:00, easy socializing for solo travelers). The theatrical and creatively staged Witchery Tours, the most established outfit, offers two different walks: “Ghosts and Gore” (1.5 hours, April-Aug only) and “Murder and Mystery” (1.25 hours, year-round). The former is better suited for kids than the latter (either tour £8.50, includes book of stories, leaves from top of Royal Mile, outside the Witchery Restaurant, near Castle Esplanade, reservations required, tel. 0131/225-6745, www.witcherytours.com).
Auld Reekie Tours offers a scary array of walks daily and nightly (£9-12, 50-75 minutes, leaves from front steps of the Tron Kirk building on Cockburn Street, tel. 0131/557-4700, pick up brochure or visit www.auldreekietours.com). Auld Reekie focuses on the paranormal, witch covens, and pagan temples, taking groups into the “haunted vaults” under the old bridges “where it was so dark, so crowded, and so squalid that the people there knew each other not by how they looked, but by how they sounded, felt, and smelt.” If you want more, there’s plenty of it (complete with screaming Gothic “jumpers”). And for the littlest ghoul connoisseur, they offer “Children’s Spooky Tours.”
Scottish Folk Evenings—These £35-40 dinner shows, generally for tour groups intent on photographing old cultural clichés, are held in the huge halls of expensive hotels. (Prices are bloated to include 20 percent commissions.) Your “traditional” meal is followed by a full slate of swirling kilts, blaring bagpipes, and Scottish folk dancing with an “old-time music hall” emcee. If you like Lawrence Welk, you’re in for a treat. But for most travelers, these are painfully cheesy variety shows. You can sometimes see the show without dinner for about two-thirds the price. The TI has fliers on all the latest venues.
Prestonfield House offers its kitschy “Taste of Scotland” folk evening—a plaid fantasy of smiling performers accompanied by electric keyboards—with or without dinner Sunday to Friday. For £44, you get the show with two drinks and a wad of haggis; £55 buys you the same, plus a three-course meal and wine (be there at 18:45, dinner at 19:00, show runs 20:00-22:00, May-Oct only). It’s in the stables of “the handsomest house in Edinburgh,” which is now home to the recommended Rhubarb Restaurant (Priestfield Road, a 10-minute walk from Dalkeith Road B&Bs, tel. 0131/225-7800, www.scottishshow.co.uk).
Theater—Even outside of festival time, Edinburgh is a fine place for lively and affordable theater. Pick up The List for a complete rundown of what’s on (sold at newsstands for a few pounds).
▲Live Music in Pubs—Edinburgh used to be a good place for traditional folk music, but in the last few years, pub owners—out of economic necessity—are catering to college-age customers more interested in beer-drinking. Several pubs that were regular venues for folk music have gone pop, but locals continue to get their Celtic fix at either the The Royal Oak (just off South Bridge opposite Chambers road at 1 Infirmary Street, tel. 0131/557-2976) or Sandy Bell’s (25 Forrest Road, tel. 0131/225-2751); at both places, drinks are cheap, tables are small, and the music starts around 21:00. The monthly Gig Guide (free at TI, accommodations, and various pubs, www.gigguide.co.uk) also lists 8-10 places each night that have live music, divided by genre (pop, rock, world, and folk).
Pubs in the Old Town: The Grassmarket neighborhood (below the castle) bustles with live music and rowdy people spilling out of the pubs and into what was (once upon a time) a busy market square. It’s fun to just wander through this area late at night and check out the scene at pubs such as Finnegans Wake, Biddy Mulligan, and White Hart Inn. Thanks to the music and crowds, you’ll know where to go...and where not to. Have a beer and follow your ear.
Pubs on the Royal Mile: Several bars here feature live folk music every night. No. 1 High Street is an accessible little pub with a love of folk and traditional music and free performances nearly every night from 21:00. Drop by during your sightseeing—as you walk the lower part of the Royal Mile—and ask what’s on tonight (across from World’s End, 1 High Street, tel. 0131/556-5758). Whistlebinkies is famous for live music (rock, pop, blues, South Bridge, tel. 0131/557-5114).
Pubs in the New Town: All the beer-drinkers seem to head for the pedestrianized Rose Street, famous for having the most pubs per square inch anywhere in Scotland—and plenty of live music.
Pubs near Dalkeith Road B&Bs: The first three listed below are classic pubs (without a lot of noisy machines and rowdy twentysomethings). They cluster within 100 yards of each other around the intersection of Duncan Street and Causewayside.
Leslie’s Pub, sitting between a working-class and an upper-class neighborhood, has two sides. Originally, the gang would go in on the right to gather around the great hardwood bar, glittering with a century of Cheers ambience. Meanwhile, the more delicate folks would slip in on the left, with its discreet doors, plush snugs (cozy private booths), and ornate ordering windows. Since 1896, this Victorian classic has been appreciated for both its “real ales” and its huge selection of fine whiskies (listed on a six-page menu). Dive into the whisky mosh pit on the right, and let them show you how whisky can become “a very good friend.” (Leslie’s is a block downhill from the next two pubs, at 49 Ratcliffe Terrace, daily 11:00-23:00, tel. 0131/667-7205.)
The Old Bell Inn, with a nostalgic sports-bar vibe, serves only drinks after 19:00 (see “Scottish Grub and Pubs” on here).
Swanny’s Pub is not quite as welcoming and plays music videos, but it’s a quintessential hangout for the working-class boys of the neighborhood, with some fun characters to get to know (Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 12:30-late).
The Salisbury Arms Pub is an inviting place to mingle with locals, enjoy a three-ales sampler for around £3.50, or simply unwind over a few drinks after a long day of sightseeing (see “Scottish Grub and Pubs” on here).
The advent of big, inexpensive hotels has made life more of a struggle for B&Bs, which are tending to go plush to compete. Still, book ahead, especially in August, when the annual Festival fills Edinburgh. Conventions, rugby matches, school holidays, and weekends can make finding a room tough at almost any time of year. For the best prices, book direct rather than through the TI, which charges a higher room fee and levies a £4 booking fee. “Standard” rooms, with toilets and showers a tissue-toss away, are cheaper than “en suite” rooms (with a private bathroom). At B&Bs, you can usually save some money by paying cash; although most B&Bs take credit cards, many add the card service fee to your bill (about three percent of the price).
South of town near the Royal Commonwealth Pool, these B&Bs—just off Dalkeith Road—are nearly all top-end, sporting three or four stars. While pricey, they come with uniformly friendly hosts and great cooked breakfasts, and are a good value for people with enough money. At these not-quite-interchangeable places, character is provided by the personality quirks of the hosts.
Most listings are on quiet streets and within a two-minute walk of a bus stop. Though you won’t find phones in the rooms, most have Wi-Fi and several offer Internet access. Most can provide triples or even quads for families.
The quality of all these B&Bs is more than adequate. Prices listed are for most of peak season; if there’s a range, prices slide up with summer demand. During the Festival in August, prices are higher; B&Bs also do not accept bookings for one-night stays during this time. Conversely, in winter, when demand is light, prices get really soft (less than what’s listed here). These prices are for cash; expect a 3-5 percent fee for using your credit card.
Near the B&Bs, you’ll find plenty of great eateries (see “Eating in Edinburgh,” later) and several good, classic pubs (see “Nightlife in Edinburgh,” earlier). A few places have their own private parking spots; others offer access to easy, free street parking, though the neighborhood may convert to metered parking (ask about it when booking—or better yet, don’t rent a car for your time in Edinburgh).
If you bring in take-out food, your host would probably prefer you eat it in the breakfast area rather than muck up your room—ask. The nearest launderette is Ace Cleaning Centre (which picks up and drops off; see here).
Getting There: This comfortable, safe neighborhood is a 10-minute bus ride from the Royal Mile. From the train station, the nearest place to catch the bus (at least while tram construction is under way) is around the corner on North Bridge (exit the station onto Princes Street, turn right, cross the street, and walk up the bridge). If you’re here after the Princes Street construction is finished, use the bus stop in front of the H&M store (£1.40, use exact change; catch Lothian bus #14, #30, or #33 or First bus #86). Tell the driver your destination is Dalkeith Road; about 10 minutes into the ride, after following South Clerk Street for a while, the bus makes a left turn, then a right—depending on where you’re staying, you’ll get off at the first or second stop after the turn. Ping the bell and hop out. These buses also stop at the corner of North Bridge and High Street on the Royal Mile. Buses run from 6:00 (9:00 on Sun) to 23:00. Taxi fare between the train station or Royal Mile and the B&Bs is about £7. Taxis are easy to hail on Dalkeith Road if it isn’t raining.
$$$ Hotel Ceilidh-Donia rents 17 soothing, contemporary rooms with a pleasant back deck, a quiet bar, and a free DVD lending library (Sb-£50-66, Db-£70-120, more in Aug and for special events, less off-season, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, 14-16 Marchhall Crescent, tel. 0131/667-2743, www.hotelceilidh-donia.co.uk, reservations@hotelceilidh-donia.co.uk, Max and Annette).
$$$ AmarAgua Guest House is an inviting Victorian home away from home, with five welcoming rooms and a Japanese garden. It’s given a little extra sparkle by its energetic proprietors, former entertainers Dawn-Ann and Tony Costa (Db-£74-98 in June-Sept, Db-£64-88 in April-May and Oct, less in winter, more for fancy four-poster rooms, 2-night minimum, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, 10 Kilmaurs Terrace, tel. 0131/667-6775, www.amaragua.co.uk, reservations@amaragua.co.uk).
$$$ Dunedin Guest House (dun-EE-din) is a fine value: bright, plush, and elegantly Scottish, with seven nice, airy rooms and a spacious breakfast room (S with private b on hall-£50-65, Db-£75-118, family rooms for up to 5, less off-season, free Wi-Fi, 8 Priestfield Road, tel. 0131/668-1949, www.dunedinguesthouse.co.uk, reservations@dunedinguesthouse.co.uk, David and Irene Wright).
$$ Airdenair Guest House, offering views and a friendly welcome, has five attractive rooms on the second floor with a lofty above-it-all feeling. Homemade scones are a staple here, and Jill’s dad regularly makes batches of “tablet”—a Scottish delicacy that’s sweet as can be (Sb-£40-45, Db-£70-80, Tb-£85-95, less off-season, free Wi-Fi, 29 Kilmaurs Road, tel. 0131/668-2336, www.airdenair.com, jill@airdenair.com, Jill and Doug McLennan).
$$ Ard-Na-Said B&B is an elegant 1875 Victorian house with a comfy lounge. It offers seven bright, spacious rooms with modern bathrooms—including one ground-floor room with a pleasant patio (Sb-£35-50, Db-£65-95, huge four-poster Db-£70-105, Tb-£90-120, prices depend on size of room as well as season, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, DVD players, free parking, 5 Priestfield Road, tel. 0131/667-8754, www.ardnasaid.co.uk, enquiries@ardnasaid.co.uk, Jim and Olive Lyons).
$$ Kingsway Guest House has seven high-quality, stylish, Scottish-modern rooms. Delightful owners Gary and Lizzie have thought of all the little touches, like take-away breakfast for early departures and bike and golf club rental (Sb-£45-60, Db-£60-80, Tb-£80-110, Qb-£90-120, 5 percent off these prices with cash and this book in 2013—mention Rick Steves when booking, free Wi-Fi, free parking, 5 East Mayfield, tel. 0131/667-5029, www.edinburgh-guesthouse.com, room@edinburgh-guesthouse.com).
$$ Aonach Mor B&B’s eight plush rooms have views of either nearby Arthur’s Seat or walled gardens (Db-£45-85, more in July-Aug, online specials, free Wi-Fi, 14 Kilmaurs Terrace, tel. 0131/667-8694, www.aonachmor.com, info@aonachmor.com, Calum and Jennifer).
$$ Kenvie Guest House, expertly run by Dorothy Vidler, comes with six pleasant rooms (one small twin-£58, D-£62-66, Db-£68-76, these prices with cash and this book through 2013—must claim when you reserve, family deals, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, 16 Kilmaurs Road, tel. 0131/668-1964, www.kenvie.co.uk, dorothy@kenvie.co.uk).
$$ Gil Dun Guest House, with eight rooms on a quiet cul-de-sac just off Dalkeith Road, is comfortable, pleasant, and managed with care by Gerry McDonald and Bill (Sb-£40-50, Db-£85-90, or £130 in Aug, great bathrooms, family deals, free Wi-Fi, pleasant garden, 9 Spence Street, tel. 0131/667-1368, www.gildun.co.uk, gildun.edin@btinternet.com).
$$ Priestville Guest House is homey, with a dramatic skylight above the stairs, a sunny breakfast room, and cozy charm—not fancy, but more than workable, and great for families. The six rooms have Wi-Fi, VCRs, and a free video library (D-£50-64, Db-£56-80, Tb-£100, Q-£120, these prices when booked via email and paid in cash, discount for 2 or more nights, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, family rooms, 10 Priestfield Road, tel. 0131/667-2435, www.priestville.com, bookings@priestville.com, Trina and Colin Warwick).
$$ Gifford House, on busy Dalkeith Road, is a bright, flowery, creaky-floor retreat with six surprisingly peaceful rooms, some with ornate cornices, super-king-size beds, and views of Arthur’s Seat (Sb-£70-80, Db-£80-90, Tb-£114-120, Qb-£130-140, free Wi-Fi, street parking, 103 Dalkeith Road, tel. 0131/667-4688, www.giffordhouseedinburgh.com, giffordhouse@btinternet.com, David and Margaret).
$$ Belford Guest House is a tidy, homey place offering three basic rooms with renovated bathrooms. The two en-suite rooms are twins; the lone double has its own bathroom outside the room (Sb-£45, Db-£70-75, family room, cheaper for longer stays, cash only, free parking, 13 Blacket Avenue—no sign out front, tel. 0131/667-2422, www.belfordguesthouse.com, tom@belfordguesthouse.com, Tom Borthwick).
These two very well-run B&Bs are set back from a busy four-lane road. They come with a little street noise, but are bigger buildings with more spacious rooms, finer public lounges, and nice comforts (such as iPod-compatible bedside radios).
$$$ At 23 Mayfield Guest House, Ross (and Grandma Mary) rent nine splurge-worthy, thoughtfully appointed rooms in an outstanding house complete with a hot tub in the garden. Every detail has been chosen with care, from the historically accurate paint colors to the “James Bond bathrooms.” Being a traveler himself, Ross knows the value of little extras, offering a gourmet breakfast and a comfy lounge with cold soft drinks at an “honesty bar” (Sb-£80-95, Db-£90-110, bigger Db-£110-130, four-poster Db-£120-170, family room for up to 4, 7 percent Rick Steves discount if you pay with cash, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, swap library, free parking, 23 Mayfield Gardens, tel. 0131/667-5806, www.23mayfield.co.uk, info@23mayfield.co.uk).
$$ Glenalmond House, run by Jimmy and Fiona Mackie, has 10 beautiful rooms with fancy modern bathrooms (Db-£80-100, bigger four-poster Db-up to £120, Tb-£80-120, Qb-£120-140, 5 percent Rick Steves discount off these prices if you book direct and pay cash, less off-season, discount for longer stays, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, free parking, 25 Mayfield Gardens, tel. 0131/668-2392, www.glenalmondhouse.com, enquiries@glenalmondhouse.com).
The first listing’s a splurge. The rest are cheaper than most of the city’s other chain hotels, and offer more comfort than character. In each case, I’d skip the institutional breakfast and eat out. To locate these hotels, see the maps on here and here. You’ll generally pay £10 a day to park near these hotels.
$$$ Macdonald Holyrood Hotel, my only fancy listing, is a four-star splurge, with 156 rooms up the street from the new Parliament building. With its classy marble-and-wood decor, fitness center, and pool, it’s hard to leave. On a gray winter day in Edinburgh, this could be worth it, but some parts may be undergoing renovation in 2013. Prices can vary wildly (Db-£110-170, breakfast extra, check for specials online, family deals, near bottom of Royal Mile, across from Dynamic Earth, 81 Holyrood Road, tel. 0131/528-8000, www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk)
$$$ Jurys Inn offers a more enjoyable feeling than the Ibis and Travelodge (listed below). A cookie-cutter place with 186 dependably comfortable and bright rooms, it is capably run and well-situated a short walk from the station (Sb/Db/Tb-£99, less on weekdays, can be much cheaper off-season and for online bookings, much more in Aug, 2 kids sleep free, breakfast-£8.50, some views, pay Wi-Fi, laundry service, pub/restaurant, on quiet street just off Royal Mile, 43 Jeffrey Street, tel. 0131/200-3300, www.jurysinns.com).
$$$ Ibis Hotel, at the middle of the Royal Mile, is well-run and perfectly located. It has 99 soulless but clean and comfy rooms drenched in prefab American “charm.” Room rates vary widely—book online to get their best offers (Db in June-Sept-£80-100, more during Festival, less off-season, breakfast-£7, pay Internet access and Wi-Fi, 6 Hunter Square, tel. 0131/240-7000, fax 0131/240-7007, www.ibishotels.com, h2039@accor.com).
$$$ Holiday Inn Express Edinburgh Royal Mile rents 78 rooms with stark modern efficiency in a fine location, a five-minute walk from the train station (Db-£95-135 depending on day, generally most expensive on Fri-Sat, much more during Festival, cheaper off-season, for best rates book online, free Wi-Fi, just off the Royal Mile down St. Mary’s Street, 300 Cowgate, tel. 0131/524-8400, www.hiexpressedinburgh.co.uk). Another Holiday Inn Express is on Picardy Place (Db-£95-135, 16 Picardy Place, tel. 0131/558-2300, www.hieedinburgh.co.uk).
$$ Travelodge Central has 193 well-located, no-nonsense rooms, all decorated in dark blue. All rooms are the same and suitable for two adults with two kids, or three adults. While sleepable, it has a cheap feel with a quickly revolving staff (Sb/Db/Tb-£60-70, weekend Db-£70-85, Aug Db-£150, cheaper off-season and when booked online in advance, breakfast-£8, 33 St. Mary’s Street, a block off Royal Mile, tel. 0871-984-6137, www.travelodge.co.uk). They have two other locations in the New Town: at 37-43 Rose Street and at 3 Waterloo Place, on the east end of Princes Street.
Edinburgh has two five-star hostels with dorm beds for about £20, slick modern efficiency, and careful management. They offer the best cheap beds in town. These places welcome families—travelers of any age feel comfortable here. Anyone on a tight budget wanting a twin room should think of these as simple hotels. The alternative is one of Edinburgh’s scruffy bohemian hostels, each of which offers a youthful, mellow ambience and beds for around £15.
$ Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel rents 300 beds in rooms with one to eight beds (all with private bathrooms and lockers). Guests can eat cheap in the cafeteria or cook for the cost of groceries in the members’ kitchen. Prices include sheets; towel rental costs £2 extra (£18-29/person in 4- to 8-bed rooms, Sb-£39-53, Db-£67-84, Tb-£69-123, Qb-£96-154, depends on season, non-members pay £2 extra per night, single-sex dorms, cooked breakfast-£6, continental breakfast-£4.50, open 24/7, pay Internet access and Wi-Fi, laundry facilities, 10-minute walk to Waverley Station, Lothian bus #22 or #25 from station, 9 Haddington Place off Leith Walk, tel. 0131/524-2090, www.syha.org.uk).
$ Smart City Hostel is a godsend for backpackers and anyone looking for simple, efficient rooms in the old center for cheap. You’ll pay £10-20 (depends on season) for a bed in an austere, industrial-strength 4- to 12-bed dorm—each with its own private bathroom. But it can get crazy with raucous weekend stag and hen parties. Bar 50 in the basement has an inviting lounge with cheap meals. Half of the rooms function as a university dorm during the school year, becoming available just in time for the tourists (620 beds, Db-£50-120, bunky Qb-£60-165, includes linens and towels, cooked breakfast-£5, usually some female-only rooms but can’t guarantee in summer, lockers, kitchen, lots of modern and efficient extras, pay Wi-Fi, coin-op laundry, 50 Blackfriars Street, tel. 0131/524-1989, www.smartcityhostels.com, info@smartcityhostels.com).
Cheap and Scruffy Bohemian Hostels in the Center: These first three sister hostels—popular crash pads for young, hip backpackers—are beautifully located in the noisy center (£13.50-20 depending on time of year, twin D-£40-55, www.scotlandstophostels.com): High Street Hostel (130 beds, 8 Blackfriars Street, just off High Street/Royal Mile, tel. 0131/557-3984); Royal Mile Backpackers (40 beds, dorms only—no private rooms, 105 High Street, tel. 0131/557-6120); and Castle Rock Hostel (300 beds, just below the castle and above the pubs, 15 Johnston Terrace, tel. 0131/225-9666). Brodie’s Hostels, somewhere between spartan and dumpy in the middle of the Royal Mile, rents 130 cheap beds in 4- to 16-bed dorms (£10-13 beds, D-£44, Db-£54, includes linens, lockers, kitchen, Internet access-£1/20 minutes, laundry, 93 High Street, tel. 0131/556-2223, www.brodieshostels.co.uk).
Reservations for restaurants are essential in August and on weekends, and a good idea anytime. All restaurants in Scotland are smoke-free.
(See “Royal Mile Accommodations & Eateries” map, here)
Historic pubs and doily cafés with reasonable, unremarkable meals abound. Though the eateries along this most-crowded stretch of the city are invariably touristy, the scene is fun, and competition makes a well-chosen place a good value. Here are some handy, affordable options for a good bite to eat (listed roughly in downhill order; for locations, see map above). Sprinkled in this list are some places a block or two off the main drag offering better values—and correspondingly filled with more locals than tourists.
The first two restaurants are in a cluster of pleasant eateries happily removed from the Royal Mile melee. Consider stopping at one of these on your way to the National Museum of Scotland, which is a half-block away.
The Elephant House, two blocks out of the touristy zone, is a comfy neighborhood coffee shop where relaxed patrons browse newspapers in the stay-awhile back room, listen to soft rock, enjoy the castle and cemetery vistas, and sip coffee or munch a light meal. During the day, you’ll pick up food at the counter and grab your own seat; after 17:00, the café switches to table service. It’s easy to imagine J. K. Rowling annoying waiters with her baby pram while spending long afternoons here writing the first Harry Potter book (£7 plates, great desserts, daily 8:00-23:00, vegetarian options, 2 blocks south of Royal Mile near National Museum of Scotland at 21 George IV Bridge, tel. 0131/220-5355).
The Outsider, also without a hint of Royal Mile tourism, is a sleek spot serving creative and trendy cuisine (good fish and grilled meats and vegetables) in a minimalist, stylish, hardwood, candlelit castle-view setting. It’s noisy with enthusiasm, and the service is crisp and youthful. As you’ll be competing with yuppies, reserve for dinner (£7 lunch plates, £13-16 main dishes, always a vegetarian course, good wines by the glass, daily 12:00-23:00, 30 yards up from The Elephant House at 15 George IV Bridge, tel. 0131/226-3131).
Oink, a short detour off the Royal Mile from the George IV Bridge, carves from a freshly roasted pig each afternoon, slopping together mouthwatering sandwiches that come in “oink” (160 grams-£3.60) or “grunter” (250 grams-£4.60) portions. Watch the pig shrink in the front window throughout the day, and be grateful you arrived when you did (daily 11:00-18:00 or whenever they run out of meat, cash only, 34 Victoria Street, tel. 01890/761-355).
The Witchery by the Castle is set in a lushly decorated 16th-century building just below the castle on the Royal Mile, with wood paneling, antique candlesticks, tapestries, and opulent red leather upholstery. Frequented by celebrities, tourists, and locals out for a splurge, the restaurant’s emphasis is on fresh—and pricey—Scottish meats and seafood (£16 two-course and £30 three-course lunch specials 12:00-16:00, specials also good 17:30-18:30 & 22:30-23:30, £20-27 main dishes, daily 12:00-16:00 & 17:30-23:30, dress smart or feel dumb, reservations critical, tel. 0131/225-5613).
Deacon Brodie’s Tavern, at a dead-center location on the Royal Mile, is a sloppy pub on the ground floor with a sloppy restaurant upstairs serving basic £8-11 pub meals. While painfully touristy, it comes with a fun history (daily 10:00-22:00, hearty salads, kids’ menu, kids welcome upstairs—but they’re not allowed to enter after 20:00, tel. 0131/220-0317).
St. Giles’ Cathedral Café, hiding under the landmark church, is the place for paupers to munch prayerfully. Stairs on the back side of the church lead into the basement, where you’ll find simple, light lunches from 11:30 and coffee with cakes all day (Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, tel. 0131/225-5147).
Angels with Bagpipes, in the shadow of St. Giles’ Cathedral, serves sophisticated Scottish staples, either in the plush interior or their outdoor patio, perfect for people-watching. Enjoy the tasty food, intimate setting, and reasonable prices (daily 12:00-20:00, £6-9 starters, £13-18 main dishes, 343 High Street, tel. 0131/220-1111).
Creelers Seafood Restaurant’s Tim and Fran James have been fishing and feeding since 1995. This respected eatery creates a kind of rough, honest, unpretentious ambience with fresh seafood you’d expect from this salty part of Scotland (£15-19 main courses, £10-12 lunch and £19-22 early-dinner specials 17:30-19:15, open daily 12:00-14:30 & 17:30-22:00, open all day Sat, no lunch Sun-Wed in winter, reservations smart, 30 yards off the Royal Mile at 3 Hunter Square, tel. 0131/220-4447).
Piemaker is a great place to grab a cheap and tasty meal, especially if you’re in a hurry. Their meat pies and pastries—try the cherry—are “so fresh they’ll pinch your bum and call you darlin’” (most everything under £3, Tue-Sat 9:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, Mon 9:00-20:00, about 100 yards off the Royal Mile at 38 South Bridge, tel. 0131/556-8566).
Dubh Prais Scottish Restaurant (pronounced “DOO-prash”) is a dressy nine-table place filling a cellar 10 steps and a world away from the High Street bustle. The owner-chef, James McWilliams, proudly serves Scottish “fayre” at its very best (including gourmet haggis). The daily specials are not printed, to guard against “zombie waiters.” They like to get to know you a bit by explaining things (£16-24 main dishes, open Tue-Sat 17:00-22:30, closed Sun-Mon, reservations smart, opposite Radisson Blu Hotel at 123b High Street, tel. 0131/557-5732).
Wedgwood Restaurant is romantic, contemporary, chic, and as gourmet as possible with no pretense. Paul Wedgwood cooks while his partner Lisa serves with appetizing charm. The cuisine: creative, modern Scottish with an international twist and a whiff of Asia. The pigeon and haggis starter is scrumptious. Paul and Lisa believe in making the meal the event of the evening—don’t come here to eat and run. I like the ground level with the Royal Mile view, but the busy kitchen ambience in the basement is also fine (£7-9 starters, £17-24 main courses, fine wine by the glass, daily 12:00-15:00, Sun open at 12:30, 267 Canongate on Royal Mile, tel. 0131/558-8737).
The World’s End Pub, a colorful old place, dishes up hearty £8-10 meals from a creative menu in a fun, dark, and noisy space (daily 12:00-21:00, 4 High Street, tel. 0131/556-3628).
David Bann, just a three-minute walk off the Royal Mile, is a worthwhile stop for well-heeled vegetarians in need of a break from the morning fry. While vegetarian as can be, there’s not a hint of hippie here. It’s upscale (it has a cocktail bar), stylish (gorgeously presented dishes), serious about quality, and organic—they serve polenta, tartlets, soups, and light meals (£6 starters, £11-13 main dishes, decadent desserts, Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00, vegan options, 56-58 St. Mary’s Street, tel. 0131/556-5888).
Clarinda’s Tea Room, near the bottom of the Royal Mile, is charming and girlish—a fine and tasty place to relax after touring the Mile or the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Stop in for a £5 quiche, salad, or soup lunch. It’s also great for sandwiches and tea and cake anytime (Mon-Sat 8:30-16:45, Sun 9:30-16:45, 69 Canongate, tel. 0131/557-1888).
While most of your sightseeing will be along the Royal Mile, it’s important that your Edinburgh experience stretches beyond this happy tourist gauntlet. Just a few minutes away, in the Georgian town, you’ll find a bustling world of office workers, students, and pensioners doing their thing. And at midday, that includes eating. Simply hiking over to one of these places will give you a good helping of modern Edinburgh. All these places are within a few minutes’ walk of the TI and main Waverley Bridge tour-bus depot.
Le Café St. Honoré, tucked away like a secret in the New Town, is a pricey but charming place with walls lined by tempting wine bottles. It serves French-Scottish cuisine in tight, Old World, cut-glass elegance to a dressy crowd (daily £15-18 two-course and £19.50-22.50 three-course lunch and dinner specials, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:00 & 17:15-22:00, Sat-Sun 18:00-22:00, reservations smart, down Thistle Street from Hanover Street, 34 Northwest Thistle Street Lane, tel. 0131/226-2211).
Café Royal is a movie producer’s dream pub—the perfect fin de siècle setting for a coffee, beer, or light meal. (In fact, parts of Chariots of Fire were filmed here.) Drop in, if only to admire the 1880 tiles featuring famous inventors (daily 12:00-14:30 & 17:00-22:00, until 21:30 in winter, bar food available during the afternoon, two blocks from Princes Mall on 19 West Register Street, tel. 0131/556-1884). There are two eateries here: the noisy pub (£10-13 main dishes, Mon-Sat 11:00-21:45, Sun open at 12:30) and the dressier restaurant, specializing in oysters, fish, and game (£20 plates, daily 12:00-14:30 & 18:00-21:30, reserve for dinner—it’s quite small and understandably popular).
The Dome Restaurant, in what was a fancy bank, serves decent meals around a classy bar and under the elegant 19th-century skylight dome. With soft jazz and chic, white-tablecloth ambience, it feels a world apart (£12-16 plates until 17:00, £14-20 dinners until 21:45, daily 12:00-23:00, modern international cuisine, open for a drink any time under the dome or in the adjacent Art Deco bar, 14 George Street, tel. 0131/624-8634, reserve for dinner). As you leave, look up to take in the facade of this former bank building—the pediment is filled with figures demonstrating various ways to make money, which they do with all the nobility of classical gods.
The St. Andrew’s and St. George’s Church Undercroft Café, in the basement of a fine old church, is the cheapest place in town for lunch—just £4 for sandwich and soup. Your tiny bill helps support the Church of Scotland (Mon-Fri 10:00-14:30, closed Sat-Sun, on George Street, just off St. Andrew Square, tel. 0131/225-3847).
Henderson’s Salad Table and Wine Bar has fed a generation of New Town vegetarians hearty cuisine and salads. Even carnivores love this place for its delectable salads and desserts (two-course lunch for £10, Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Thu-Sat until 23:00, closed Sun except in Aug 10:00-17:00, strictly vegetarian, take-away available, pleasant live music nightly in wine bar—generally guitar or jazz; between Queen and George streets at 94 Hanover Street, tel. 0131/225-2131). Henderson’s two different seating areas use the same self-serve cafeteria line. For the same healthy food with more elegant seating and table service, eat at the attached Henderson’s Bistro (daily 12:00-20:30, Thu-Sat until 21:30).
Fun Ethnic Eateries on Hanover Street: Hanover Street is lined with Thai, Greek, Turkish, Italian, and other restaurants. Stroll the block to eye your options.
Supermarket: The glorious Sainsbury’s supermarket, with a tasty assortment of food and specialty coffees, is just one block from the Sir Walter Scott Monument and the lovely picnic-perfect Princes Street Gardens (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-20:00, on corner of Rose Street on St. Andrew Square, across the street from Jenners, the classy department store).
Nearly all of these places (except for The Sheeps Heid Inn) are within a 10-minute walk of my recommended B&Bs. Most are on or near the intersection of Newington Road and East Preston Street. Reserve on weekends and during the Festival. For locations, see the map on here. The nearest grocery store is Tesco Express (daily 6:00-23:00, 158 Causewayside). For a cozy drink after dinner, visit the recommended pubs in the area (see “Nightlife in Edinburgh,” earlier).
Blonde Restaurant, with a modern Scottish and European menu, is less expensive but more crowded than the others. It’s a bit out of the way, but a hit with locals and tough to get into—make reservations (£13 two-course lunch special, £12-18 main dishes, Tue-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:00-22:00, Sun-Mon 18:00-21:00, good vegetarian options, 75 St. Leonard’s Street, tel. 0131/668-2917, Andy).
Rhubarb Restaurant is the hottest thing in Old World elegance. It’s in “Edinburgh’s most handsome house”—a riot of antiques, velvet, tassels, and fringes. The plush dark-rhubarb color theme reminds visitors that this was the place where rhubarb was first grown in Britain. It’s a 10-minute walk past the other recommended eateries behind Arthur’s Seat, in a huge estate with big, shaggy Highland cattle enjoying their salads al fresco. At night, it’s a candlelit wonder. While most spend a wad here (£20-34 plates), take advantage of the two-course lunch for £17, or at least consider the £30 three-course dinner (Sun-Thu 12:00-14:00 & 18:30-23:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 18:00-23:00, afternoon tea served daily 15:00-18:00, reserve in advance and dress up if you can, in Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road, tel. 0131/225-7800, www.prestonfield.com). For details on the Scottish folk evening offered here, see “Nightlife in Edinburgh,” earlier.
The Old Bell Restaurant serves up filling modern Scottish fare, from steak and salmon to haggis, in a Victorian living-room setting above the lovable Old Bell Inn (described later). Along with wonderfully presented meals, you’ll enjoy white tablecloths, Oriental carpets on hardwood floors, and a relaxing spaciousness under open beams (£13 two-course or £15 three-course special until 18:45, £13-18 plates, Mon-Sat 17:30-20:00, Sun 12:30-19:00, always a veggie option, 233 Causewayside, tel. 0131/668-2868).
The Sheeps Heid Inn, Edinburgh’s oldest public house, is equally notable for its history, date-night appeal, and hearty portions of affordable, classy dishes. Though it requires a cab ride, it is worth the fare to dine in this dreamy setting in the presence of past queens and kings (£7-10 starters, £10-18 main dishes; open Sun-Thu 12:00-20:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-21:00, 43-45 The Causeway, tel. 0131/661-7974).
The Old Bell Inn, with an old-time sports-bar ambience—fishing, golf, horses—serves simpler £8 pub meals from the same fine kitchen as the fancier Old Bell (which is just upstairs, described above). This is a classic “snug pub”—all dark woods and brass beer taps, littered with evocative knickknacks—and has live folk music some Saturdays at 19:30. It comes with sidewalk seating and a mixed-age crowd (open daily until 24:00; food served 12:00-21:00, 233 Causewayside, tel. 0131/668-1573).
The Salisbury Arms Pub serves upscale, pleasing traditional classics with a yuppie flair in a space that exudes more Martha Stewart than traditional public house (£6-7 starters, £12-17 main dishes, evening specials, Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-21:30, pub open daily until 23:00, 58 Dalkeith Road, tel. 0131/667-4518).
Reverie Bar is just your basic, fun pub with a focus on food rather than drinking and free live music most nights from 21:30 (every other Sun-jazz, Tue-traditional, Thu-blues; £8-11 main dishes, food served daily 12:00-21:00, 1-5 Newington Road, tel. 0131/667-8870, http://thereverie.co.uk).
Hewat’s Restaurant is the neighborhood hit. Sample Scottish cuisine or their popular steak dishes in this elegantly whimsical dining space (£10 dinner deals Mon-Thu until 19:30; £15 for two courses, £18 for three courses until 18:45—must call ahead to request; open Mon-Sat 18:00-21:30, Fri-Sat 18:00-22:00, Wed-Sat also open for lunch 12:00-14:00, closed Sun, 19-21b Causeway, tel. 0131/466-6660).
Hellers Kitchen is a casual blond-wood space specializing in dishes using local produce and fresh-baked breads and doughs. Check the big chalkboard to see what’s on (£5-6 sandwiches, £7-10 pizzas and main dishes, daily 12:00-20:00, next to post office at 15 Salisbury Place, tel. 0131/667-4654).
Metropole Café is a fresh, healthy eatery with a Starbucks ambience, serving light bites for £4 or 3/£7.50 and simple meals for £8 (Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-21:00, always a good vegetarian dish, free Wi-Fi, 33 Newington Road, tel. 0131/668-4999).
Wild Elephant Thai Restaurant is a small, hardworking eatery that locals consider the best around for Thai (£11-14 main dishes, £11 three-course meal available 17:00-19:00, also does take-away, open daily 17:00-23:00, 21 Newington Road, tel. 0131/662-8822).
Il Positano Ristorante has a spirited Italian ambience, as manager Donato injects a love of life and food into his little restaurant. The moment you step through the door, you know you’re in for good, classic Italian cuisine (£7-10 pizzas and pastas, £11-15 plates, daily 12:00-14:00 & 17:00-23:00, 85-87 Newington Road, tel. 0131/662-9977).
Hanedan Turkish Restaurant is generating a huge buzz. This friendly, contemporary 10-table place serves great Turkish grills and vegetarian specials at a fine price (£9 two-course special anytime, £9 main dishes, open Tue-Sun 12:00-15:00 & 17:30-24:00, closed Mon, 41 West Preston Street, tel. 0131/667-4242, chef Gürsel Bahar).
From Edinburgh by Train to: Glasgow (4/hour, 50 minutes), St. Andrews (train to Leuchars, 1-2/hour, 1-1.25 hours, then 10-minute bus into St. Andrews), Stirling (roughly 2/hour, 1 hour), Pitlochry (7/day direct, 2 hours), Inverness (every 1-2 hours, 3.5-4 hours, some with change in Stirling or Perth), Oban (3/day, 4.25 hours, change in Glasgow), York (1-2/hour, 2.5 hours), London (1-2/hour, 4.5 hours), Durham (hourly direct, 2 hours, more with changes, less frequent in winter), Newcastle (2/hour, 1.5 hours), Keswick/Lake District (8-10/day to Penrith—some via Carlisle, then catch bus to Keswick, fewer on Sun, 3 hours including bus transfer in Penrith), Birmingham (at least hourly, 4-5 hours, some with change in York), Crewe (every 2 hours, 3 hours), Bristol, near Bath (hourly, 6-6.5 hours), Blackpool (roughly hourly, 3-3.5 hours, transfer in Preston). Train info: Tel. 0845-748-4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk.
By Bus to: Glasgow (4/hour, 1.25-1.5 hours, £3-6.30), Oban (7/day Mon-Sat, 4-5 hours; 1 direct, rest with transfer in Glasgow, Perth, or Tyndrum), Fort William (7/day, 4-5 hours, 1 direct, rest with change in Glasgow or Tyndrum), Portree on the Isle of Skye (4/day, 7.5-8 hours, transfer in Inverness or Glasgow), Inverness (nearly hourly, 3.5-4.5 hours). For bus info, call Scottish Citylink (tel. 0871-266-3333, www.citylink.co.uk) or National Express (tel. 0871-781-8181). Megabus also operates some long-distance routes (www.megabus.com). You can get info and tickets at the bus desk inside the Princes Mall TI.
It’s 100 miles south from Edinburgh to Hadrian’s Wall; to Durham, it’s another 50 miles.
To Hadrian’s Wall: From Edinburgh, Dalkeith Road leads south and eventually becomes the A-68 (handy Cameron Toll supermarket with cheap gas is on the left as you leave Edinburgh Town, 10 minutes south of Edinburgh; gas and parking behind store). The A-68 road takes you to Hadrian’s Wall in two hours. You’ll pass Jedburgh and its abbey after one hour. (For one last shot of Scotland shopping, there’s a coach tour’s delight just before Jedburgh, with kilt-makers, woolens, and a sheepskin shop.) Across from Jedburgh’s lovely abbey is a free parking lot, a good visitors center, and public toilets (£0.20 to pee). The England/Scotland border is a fun, quick stop (great view, ice cream, and tea caravan). Just after the turn for Colwell, turn right onto the A-6079, and roller-coaster four miles down to Low Brunton. Then turn right onto the B-6318, and stay on it by turning left at Chollerford, following the Roman wall westward. (For information on Hadrian’s Wall, see the Durham and Northeast England chapter.)
To Durham: If you’re heading straight to Durham, you can take the scenic coastal route on the A-1 (a few more miles than the A-68, but similar time), which takes you near Holy Island and Bamburgh Castle; for details, see the end of the Durham and Northeast England chapter.