Islands near Oban: Mull and Iona
Map: Oban & the Southern Highlands
Oban • Mull • Iona • Glencoe • Fort William
The area north of Glasgow offers a fun and easy dip into the southern part of the Scottish Highlands. Oban is a fruit crate of Scottish traditions, with a handy pair of wind-bitten Hebrides islands (Mull and Iona) just a hop, skip, and jump away. Nearby, the evocative “Weeping Glen” of Glencoe aches with both history and natural beauty. Beyond that, Fort William anchors the southern end of the Caledonian Canal, offering a springboard to more Highlands scenery—this is where Britain’s highest peak, Ben Nevis, keeps its head in the clouds, and where you’ll find a valley made famous by a steam train carrying a young wizard named Harry.
Oban is a smart place to spend the night on a blitz tour of central Scotland; with more time to linger (and an interest in a day trip to the islands), spend two nights—Iona is worthwhile but adds a day to your trip. If you have a third night to spare, you can sleep in Iona and give yourself time to roam around Mull. Glencoe is worth considering as a very sleepy, rural overnight alternative to Oban, or if you have plenty of time and want a remote village experience on your way north.
Oban works well if you’re coming from Glasgow, or even all the way from England’s Lake District (for driving tips, see the end of this chapter). Assuming you’re driving, here’s an ambitious two-day plan for the Highlands (some of these sights are described in the next three chapters).
| Morning | Drive up from the Lake District, or linger in Glasgow. |
| 11:30 | Depart Glasgow. |
| 12:00 | Rest stop on Loch Lomond, then joyride on. |
| 13:00 | Lunch in Inveraray. |
| 16:00 | Arrive in Oban, tour whisky distillery (last tour earlier off-season), and drop by the TI. |
| 20:00 | Dine in Oban. |
| 9:00 | Leave Oban. |
| 10:00 | Visit Glencoe museum and the valley’s visitors center. |
| 12:00 | Drive to Fort William and follow the Caledonian Canal to Inverness, stopping at Fort Augustus to see the locks and along Loch Ness to search for monsters. |
| 16:00 | Visit the Culloden Battlefield (closes earlier off-season) near Inverness. |
| 17:00 | Drive south. |
| 20:00 | Arrive in Edinburgh. |
While you’ll see the Highlands on the above itinerary, you’ll whiz past them in a misty blur. With more time, head north from Fort William to the Isle of Skye, spend a night or two there, head over to Inverness via Loch Ness, and consider a stop in Pitlochry.
By Car: Drivers enjoy flexibility and plenty of tempting stopovers. Barring traffic, you’ll make great time on good, mostly two-lane roads. Be careful, but don’t be too timid about passing; otherwise, diesel fumes and large trucks might be your main memory of driving in Scotland. As you drive along Loch Ness, antsy locals may ride your bumper. For step-by-step instructions, read the “Route Tips for Drivers” at the end of this chapter.
By Public Transportation: Glasgow is the gateway to this region (so you’ll most likely have to transfer there if coming from Edinburgh). The train zips from Glasgow to Fort William, Oban, and Kyle of Lochalsh in the west; and up to Stirling, Pitlochry, and Inverness in the east. For more remote destinations (such as Glencoe), the bus is better.
Most of the buses you’ll need are operated by Scottish Citylink. Pay the driver in cash when you board, or buy tickets in advance at local TIs or online at www.citylink.co.uk (during busy times, it’s smart to buy your ticket ahead of time to guarantee a seat on the bus). The nondescript town of Fort William serves as a hub for Highlands buses. Note that bus frequency is substantially reduced on Sundays and off-season—during these times, always carefully confirm schedules locally. Unless otherwise noted, I’ve listed bus information for summer weekdays.
These buses are particularly useful for connecting the sights in this book:
Buses #976 and #977 connect Glasgow with Oban (3-8/day, 2.75-3 hours, some with transfer in Tyndrum).
Bus #913 runs one daily direct route from Edinburgh to this region—stopping at Glasgow, Stirling, and Glencoe on the way to Fort William (allow 4 hours from Edinburgh to Fort William; 3/day with change in Glasgow on buses #900 and #914, 5 hours).
Bus #978 connects Edinburgh with Oban, stopping in Stirling, but not Glencoe (1/day direct, 4 hours; 6 more/day with changes in Glasgow and/or Tyndrum, 5-5.5 hours).
Bus #914 goes from Glasgow to Fort William, stopping at Glencoe (1/day, 3 hours).
Buses #915 and #916 follow the same route (Glasgow-Glencoe-Fort William), then continue all the way up to Portree on the Isle of Skye (3/day, 6.75 hours for the full run).
Bus #918 goes from Oban to Fort William, stopping en route at Ballachulish near Glencoe (3/day in summer, 2/day off-season, never on Sun; 1 hour to Ballachulish, 1.5 hours total to Fort William).
Bus #919 connects Fort William with Inverness (5/day, 2 hours).
Oban (pronounced “OH-bin”) is called the “gateway to the isles.” Equal parts functional and scenic, this busy little ferry-and-train terminal has no important sights, but makes up the difference in character. It’s a low-key resort, with a winding promenade lined by gravel beaches, ice-cream stands, fish-and-chip take-away shops, and a surprising diversity of fine restaurants. When the rain clears, sun-starved Scots sit on benches along the Esplanade, leaning back to catch some rays. Wind, boats, gulls, layers of islands, and the promise of a wide-open Atlantic beyond give Oban a rugged charm.
Oban’s business action, just a couple of streets deep, stretches along the harbor and its promenade. (The island just offshore is Kerrera, with Mull looming behind it.) Everything in Oban is close together, and the town seems eager to please its many visitors. There’s live music nightly in several bars and restaurants; wool and tweed are perpetually on sale (tourist shops stay open later than usual in summer—until 20:00—and many are even open on Sundays); and posters announce a variety of day tours to Scotland’s wild and rabbit-strewn western islands.
Oban’s TI, located at the North Pier, sells bus and ferry tickets and has a fine bookshop. Stop by to get brochures and information on everything from bike rental to golf courses to horseback riding to rainy-day activities and more. They can also book you a room for a £4 fee (flexible hours, generally July-Aug daily 9:00-19:00; April-June Mon-Sat 9:00-17:30, Sun 10:00-17:00; Sept-Oct daily 10:00-17:00; Nov-March Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-15:00; 3 North Pier, tel. 01631/563-122, www.oban.org.uk). Check the “What’s On” board for the latest on Oban’s small-town evening scene (free live entertainment downstairs in the bar at the Great Western Hotel on the Esplanade—most nights at 20:30 year-round; Scottish Night with bagpipes and sometimes dancers generally Wed and Fri; call for details, tel. 01631/563-101).
Internet Access: Fancy That is a souvenir shop on the main drag with seven high-speed Internet terminals and Wi-Fi in the back room (£1/20 minutes, daily 9:30-17:00, until 22:00 July-Aug, 108 George Street, tel. 01631/562-996). To surf for free, get online at the library just above the ferry terminal; you can just show up, but it’s smart to call ahead to book a 30-minute time slot (Mon and Wed 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-19:00, Thu until 18:00, Fri until 17:00, closed Sat afternoon and all day Tue and Sun, 77 Albany Street, tel. 01631/571-444).
Baggage Storage: The train station has luggage lockers (£3-5 depending on bag size), but these have been known to close for security reasons. In this case, West Coast Motors, which sells bus tickets, has a pricey left-luggage service (£1/hour per piece, unsecured in main office, Mon-Fri 8:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, Sat 9:00-14:00, closed Sun, July-Aug open during lunch, can be sporadically closed Oct-May, next to Bowman’s Tours at Queens Park Place, www.westcoastmotors.co.uk).
Laundry: You’ll find Oban Quality Laundry tucked a block behind the main drag on Stevenson Street (£7-10/load for same-day drop-off service, no self-service, Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 9:00-13:00, closed Sun, tel. 01631/563-554).
Supermarket: Tesco is a five-minute walk from the train station (Mon-Sat 6:00-24:00, Sun 8:00-20:00, WC in front by registers, inexpensive cafeteria, look for entrance to large parking lot a block past TI on right-hand side, Lochside Street).
Bike Rental: Try Nevis Cycles, on the main drag (£13/half-day, £20/day, includes helmets, can pick up in Oban and drop off in Fort William or Inverness for extra charge, daily 9:00-17:30, 87 George Street, tel. 01631/566-033), or Flit Self Drive, south of the train station (£14/half-day, £18/day, Mon-Fri 9:00-17:30, Sat 9:00-12:00, closed Sun, Glencruitten Road, tel. 01631/566-553, www.flitselfdrive.co.uk).
▲▲Nearby Islands—For the best day trip from Oban, tour the islands of Mull and Iona (offered daily Easter-Oct, described later)—or consider staying overnight on remote and beautiful Iona. With more time or other interests, consider one of many other options you’ll see advertised.
Wildlife Tours—Those more interested in nature than church history will enjoy trips to the wildly scenic Isle of Staffa with Fingal’s Cave (known for its basalt column formations similar to Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland). The journey to Treshnish Island brims with puffins, seals, and other sea critters. Several groups, including Sealife Adventures and SeaFari, run whale-watching tours that feature rare minke whales, basking sharks, bottlenose dolphins, and porpoises. Departures and options abound—check at the TI for information.
Open-Top Bus Tours—If there’s good weather and you don’t have a car, take a spin out of Oban for views of nearby castles and islands, plus a stop at McCaig’s Tower (£8, £7 if prebooked online, valid for 24 hours, late May-late Sept daily at 11:00 and 14:00, no tours off-season, 2.5 hours, departs from rail station, tel. 01412/040-444, www.citysightseeingoban.com).
▲West Highland Malt Scotch Whisky Distillery Tours—The 200-year-old Oban Whisky Distillery produces more than 16,000 liters a week and exports more than 60 percent to the US. They offer serious and fragrant one-hour tours explaining the process from start to finish, with two smooth samples (in the tasting room at the end of the tour, say “yes” when the guide asks if anyone is a whisky drinker and you may get a third taste), a whisky glass (normally sells for £6), and a discount coupon for the shop. This is the handiest whisky tour you’ll see, just a block off the harbor and better than anything in Edinburgh. The exhibition that precedes the tour gives a quick, whisky-centric history of Scotland. In high season, these very popular tours (which are limited to 15 people every 15 minutes) fill up quickly. Call or stop by the day before to reserve your time slot.
Cost and Hours: £7; July-Sept Mon-Fri 9:30-19:30, Sat-Sun 9:30-17:00; Easter-June and Oct Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, closed Sun; March-Easter and Nov Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, closed Sat-Sun; Dec and Feb Mon-Fri 12:30-16:00, closed Sat-Sun; closed Jan; last tour 1.25 hours before closing, Stafford Street, tel. 01631/572-004, www.discovering-distilleries.com. Connoisseurs can ask about the new “vertical tasting” (sampling whisky by age) held in their warehouse (£25, 2 hours, likely July-Aug only).
Skipinnish Ceilidh House—On most nights mid-June through mid-September, you can stroll into Skipinnish on the main drag for Highland music and storytelling. This venue, owned by professional musicians, invests in talented musicians and puts on a good show, with live bands, songs sung in Gaelic, and Highland dancing. For many, the best part is the chance to learn some ceilidh (KAY-lee) dancing. These group dances are a lot of fun—wallflowers and bad dancers are warmly welcomed, and the staff is happy to give you pointers.
Cost and Hours: £8 music session, pricier for concerts with visiting big-name ceilidh bands, music 4-5 nights/week mid-June-mid-Sept at 20:00, 2 hours, check website for off-season show schedule, sidewalk ticket stall open daily 12:00-17:00, 34-38 George Street, tel. 01631/569-599, www.skipinnishceilidhhouse.com.
McCaig’s Tower—The unfinished “colosseum” on the hill overlooking town was an employ-the-workers-and-build-me-a-fine-memorial project undertaken by an early Oban tycoon in 1900. While the structure itself is nothing to see close-up, a 10-minute hike through a Victorian residential neighborhood leads you to a peaceful garden and a mediocre view.
Atlantis Leisure Centre—This industrial-type sports center is a good place to get some exercise on a rainy day or let the kids run wild for a few hours. It has an indoor swimming pool with a big water slide, a rock-climbing wall, tennis courts, and two playgrounds. The center’s outdoor playground is free and open all the time; the indoor “soft play centre” for children under five costs £3.50 per hour, per child.
Cost and Hours: Pool only-£3.70/adult, £2.30/child, no rental towels or suits, lockers-£0.20; day pass for everything-£12/adult, £8/child; Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 8:30-18:00; open-swim pool hours vary by season—call or check online for exact times; on the north end of Dalriach Road, tel. 01631/566-800, www.atlantisleisure.co.uk.
Oban Lawn Bowling Club—The club has welcomed visitors since 1869. This elegant green is the scene of a wonderfully British spectacle of old men tiptoeing wishfully after their balls. It’s fun to watch, and—if there’s no match scheduled and the weather’s dry—anyone can rent shoes and balls and actually play.
Cost and Hours: £4/person; informal hours, but generally daily 10:00-16:00 & 17:00 to “however long the weather lasts”; lessons at 13:45; just south of sports center on Dalriach Road, tel. 01631/570-808, www.obanbowlingclub.com.
Isle of Kerrera—Just offshore from Oban, this stark but very green island offers a quick, easy opportunity to get that romantic island experience. Although Kerrera (KEH-reh-rah) dominates Oban’s sea view, you’ll have to head two miles south of town (follow the coast road past the ferry terminal) to catch the boat to the middle of the island (ferry-£5 round-trip, bikes free, 5-minute trip; Easter-Sept first ferry Mon-Sat at 8:45, then daily 2/hour 10:30-12:30 & 14:00-17:00, last ferry at 18:00; Oct-Easter 5-6/day, last ferry Mon-Fri at 17:50, Sat-Sun at 17:00—but changes with demand; at Gallanach’s dock; tel. 01631/563-665, if no answer contact Oban TI for info; www.kerrera-ferry.co.uk). The free shuttle service between Oban’s North Pier and the Kerrera Marina is for customers of the recommended Waypoint Bar & Grill (must show your receipt on the way back), but you could always take a walk around the island after lunch.
Sleeping on Kerrera: To spend the night on the island, your only option is the $ Kerrera Bunkhouse, a converted 18th-century stable that has seven bunk beds in four compartments (£14/person, £70 for the entire bunkhouse, includes bedding but not towels, cheaper for 2 nights or more, open year-round but book ahead in winter, kitchen, tel. 01631/570-223, www.kerrerabunkhouse.co.uk, info@kerrerabunkhouse.co.uk, Susan). They also run a tea garden that serves meals (April-mid-Oct Wed-Sun 10:30-16:30, closed Mon-Tue and mid-Oct-March).
Isle of Seil—Enjoy a drive, a walk, some solitude, and the sea. Drive 12 miles south of Oban on the A-816 to the B-844 to the Isle of Seil (pronounced “seal”), connected to the mainland by a bridge (which, locals like to brag, “crosses the Atlantic”...well, maybe a small part of it).
Just over the bridge on the Isle of Seil is a pub called Tigh-an-Truish (“House of Trousers”). After a 1745 English law forbade the wearing of kilts on the mainland, Highlanders on the island used this pub to change from kilts to trousers before they made the crossing. The pub serves great meals and good seafood dishes to those either in kilts or pants (pub open daily April-Oct 11:00-23:00—food served 12:00-14:00 & 18:00-20:30, July-Aug all day until 21:00, Nov-March shorter hours and soup/sandwiches only, darts anytime, tel. 01852/300-242).
Five miles across the island, on a tiny second island and facing the open Atlantic, is Easdale, a historic, touristy, windy little slate-mining town—with a slate-town museum and incredibly tacky egomaniac’s “Highland Arts” shop (shuttle ferry goes the 300 yards). An overpriced direct ferry runs from Easdale to Iona; but, at twice the cost of the Mull-Iona trip, the same time on the island, and very little time with a local guide, it’s hardly worth it. For a better connection to Iona, see here.
Oban’s B&Bs offer a better value than its hotels. None of these B&Bs accepts credit cards. The following B&Bs line up on a quiet, flowery street that’s nicely located two blocks off the harbor, three blocks from the center, and a 10-minute walk from the train station. By car, as you enter town, turn left after King’s Knoll Hotel, and take your first right onto Breadalbane Street. (“Strathaven Terrace” is actually just the name for this row of houses on Breadalbane Street.) The alley behind the buildings has parking for all of these places.
$$ Sandvilla B&B rents five fine rooms with sleek contemporary decor (Db-£55, £65 in July-Aug, Tb-£83-90, free Wi-Fi, at #4, tel. 01631/562-803, www.holidayoban.co.uk, sandvilla@holidayoban.co.uk, Joyce and Scott).
$$ Gramarvin Guest House has five fresh and cheery rooms (Db-£55-70, £65 in Aug, Tb-£95, free Wi-Fi, at #5, tel. 01631/564-622, www.gramarvin.co.uk, mary@gramarvin.co.uk, Mary).
$$ Raniven Guest House has five simple, tastefully decorated rooms (Sb-£30-35, Db-£55-60, price depends on season, free Wi-Fi, coin-op laundry, at #1, tel. 01631/562-713, www.raniven.co.uk, info@raniven.co.uk, Moyra and Stuart).
$$ Tanglin B&B, with five Grandma’s house-homey rooms, comes with lively, chatty hosts Liz and Jim Montgomery, who create an easygoing atmosphere (S-£28, Db-£54-56, family room-around £70, free Wi-Fi, at #3, tel. 01631/563-247, mobile 0774/8305-891, jimtanglin@aol.com).
These options are a step up from the B&Bs—in terms of both amenities and price. Glenburnie House, Kilchrenan House, and The Barriemore are along the Esplanade, which stretches north of town above a cobble beach (with beautiful bay views); they are a 5- to 10-minute walk from the center. The Rowantree is on the main drag in town.
$$$ Glenburnie House, a stately Victorian home, has an elegant breakfast room overlooking the bay. Its 12 spacious, comfortable, classy rooms feel like plush living rooms. There’s a nice lounge and a tiny sunroom with a stuffed “hairy coo” head (Sb-£55, Db-£90-115, price depends on size and view, closed mid-Nov-March, free Wi-Fi, free parking, the Esplanade, tel. & fax 01631/562-089, www.glenburnie.co.uk, stay@glenburnie.co.uk, Graeme).
$$$ Kilchrenan House, the turreted former retreat of a textile magnate, has 14 tastefully renovated, large rooms, most with bay views (Sb-£50, Db-£70-100, 2-night minimum, higher prices are for seaview rooms in June-Aug, lower prices are for back-facing rooms and Sept-May, stunning rooms #5 and #15 are worth the few extra pounds, welcome drink of whisky or sherry, different “breakfast special” every day, closed Dec-Jan, a few houses past the cathedral on the Esplanade, tel. 01631/562-663, www.kilchrenanhouse.co.uk, info@kilchrenanhouse.co.uk, Colin and Frances).
$$$ The Rowantree Hotel is a group-friendly place with 24 renovated rooms reminiscent of a budget hotel in the US (complete with thin walls) and a central locale right on Oban’s main drag (Sb-£60-90, Db-£100-160, includes breakfast, prices may be soft for walk-ins and off-season, easy parking, George Street, tel. 01631/562-954, www.rowantreehoteloban.co.uk).
$$$ The Barriemore, at the very end of Oban’s grand waterfront Esplanade, comes with a nice patio, front sitting area, and well-appointed rooms. Some front-facing rooms have views; rooms in the modern addition in the back are cheaper (Sb-£65-75, Db-£90-110, Tb-£100-125, two ground-floor double mini suites with views-£130-160, less off-season, price depends on view, free Wi-Fi, the Esplanade, tel. 01631/566-356, fax 01631/201-255, www.barriemore-hotel.co.uk, reception@barriemore-hotel.co.uk, Sue and Jan).
$ Oban Backpackers is the most central, laid-back, and fun, with a wonderful, sprawling public living room and 48 beds. The giant mural of nearby islands in the lobby is useful for orientation, and the staff is generous with travel tips (£17/bed, 6-12 bunks per room, includes breakfast, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, £4.50 laundry service for guests only, 10-minute walk from station, on Breadalbane Street, tel. 01631/567-189, www.obanbackpackers.com, info@backpackersplus.com, Peter). Their bunkhouse across the street has several basic but cheerful private rooms that share a kitchen; a third property, at the top of the block, has seven private rooms, each with a bath (S-£19-22, Sb-£21-24, D-£43, Db-£45, T-£57, Tb-£59, same contact info as hostel).
$ The refurbished IYHF hostel, on the scenic waterfront Esplanade, is in a grand building with 100 beds and smashing views of the harbor and islands from the lounges and dining rooms. There are also some private rooms, including several that can usually be rented as twin rooms (£17.50-20/bed in 4- to 6-bed rooms with en-suite bathroom, bunk-bed Db-£46, Tb-£55-65, Qb-£75-88, price varies with demand, also has family rooms and 8-bed apartment with kitchen, £2/night more for nonmembers, breakfast-£4-6, dinner-£5.50-12, pay Internet access and Wi-Fi, great facilities, pay laundry, kitchen, tel. 01631/562-025, www.syha.org.uk, oban@syha.org.uk).
$ Jeremy Inglis’ Hostel has 37 beds located two blocks from the TI and train station. This loosely run place feels more like a commune than a youth hostel...and it’s cheap (£15/bed, S-£22, D-£30, cash only, includes linens, breakfast comes with Jeremy’s homemade jam, free Wi-Fi, kitchen, no curfew, second floor at 21 Airds Crescent, tel. 01631/565-065, jeremyinglis@mctavishs.freeserve.co.uk).
Oban calls itself the “seafood capital of Scotland,” and there are plenty of good fish places in town.
Ee’usk (a phonetic rendering of iasg, Scottish Gaelic for “fish”) is a popular, stylish, family-run place on the waterfront. It has a casual-chic atmosphere, a bright and glassy interior, sweeping views on three sides, and fish dishes favored by both natives and tourists. Reservations are recommended every day in summer and on weekends off-season (£6-9 lunches, £10-20 dinners, daily 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-21:30, North Pier, tel. 01631/565-666, MacLeod family).
Piazza, next door and also run by the MacLeods, has similar decor but serves Italian cuisine and offers a more family-friendly ambience (£8-12 pizzas and pastas, daily 12:00-15:00 & 17:30-21:00, smart to reserve ahead July-Aug, tel. 01631/563-628).
Coast proudly serves fresh local fish, meat, and veggies in a mod pine-and-candlelight atmosphere. As everything is prepared and presented with care by husband-and-wife team Richard and Nicola—who try to combine traditional Scottish elements in innovative new ways—come here only if you have time for a slow meal (£10-13 lunches, £13-18 dinners, £13 two-course and £16 three-course specials served for lunch and at 17:30-18:30, open daily 12:00-14:00 & 17:30-21:00, closed Sun for lunch, 104 George Street, tel. 01631/569-900).
Cuan Mòr is a popular gastropub that combines traditional Scottish with modern flair—both in its tasty cuisine and in its furnishings, made entirely of wood, stone, and metal scavenged from the beaches of Scotland’s west coast (£6 lunches, £9-15 main courses, food served daily 12:00-22:00, brewery in the back, 60 George Street, tel. 01631/565-078).
Room 9 seats just 24 diners in one tiny light-wood room, and has a select menu of homemade nouvelle-cuisine dishes. It’s owned and run with care by chef Michael (dinner only, £13-17 meals, daily 17:30-21:30, reservations smart Fri-Sat, 9 Craigard Road, tel. 01631/564-200).
Waypoint Bar & Grill, just across the bay from Oban, is a laid-back patio at the Kerrera Marina with a no-nonsense menu of grilled seafood. It’s not fancy, but the food is fresh and inexpensive, and on a nice day the open-air waterside setting is unbeatable (£8-10 plates, £15 seafood platter, June-Sept daily 12:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00, closed Oct-May, tel. 07840/650-669). A free-for-customers eight-minute ferry to the marina leaves from Oban’s North Pier—look for the sign near the recommended Piazza restaurant (departs hourly at :10 past each hour).
At The Oban Bay Fish & Chips, father-and-son team Renato and Antonio serve all things from the sea (plus an assortment of Scottish classics) battered and fried. Choose between the casual diner or take-away counter, where you can give fried haggis a try (£6-9 meals, slightly cheaper for take-away, “Fish Tea” for £8, daily 12:00-23:00, George Street, next to Skipinnish, tel. 01631/565-855).
Pub Grub: The Lorne is a lively high-ceilinged pub known for live music. After hours, it becomes the most happening nightspot in town...which isn’t saying much (£7-9 pub grub, food served Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 & 17:30-21:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-16:00 & 17:30-21:00, outside seating, free Wi-Fi, tucked a couple of blocks off the main drag behind the stream at Stevenson Street, tel. 01631/570-020).
The green shellfish shack at the ferry dock is the best spot to pick up a seafood sandwich or a snack (often free salmon samples, inexpensive coffee, meal-size £3 salmon sandwiches, picnic tables nearby, open daily from 10:00 until the boat unloads from Mull around 17:45). This is a good place to pick up a sandwich for your island day—or get a light, early dinner (or “appetizer”) when you return.
The Kitchen Garden is fine for soup, salad, or sandwiches. It’s a deli and gourmet-foods store with a charming café upstairs (£3.50 sandwiches to go, £5-8 dishes upstairs, Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Sun Jan-mid-Feb, 14 George Street, tel. 01631/566-332).
By Train from Oban: Trains link Oban to the nearest transportation hub in Glasgow (3/day, just 1/day Sun in winter, 3 hours); to get to Edinburgh, you’ll have to transfer in Glasgow (3/day, 1/day Sun in winter, 4.25 hours). To reach Fort William (a transit hub for the Highlands), you’ll take the same Glasgow-bound train, but transfer in Crianlarich—the direct bus is easier (see next). Oban’s small train station has limited hours (ticket window open Mon-Sat 7:15-18:00, Sun 10:45-18:00, same hours apply to lockers, train info tel. 08457-484-950, www.nationalrail.co.uk).
By Bus: Bus #918 passes through Ballachulish—a half-mile from Glencoe—on its way to Fort William (3/day in summer, 2/day off-season, never on Sun; 1 hour to Ballachulish, 1.5 hours total to Fort William). Take this bus to Fort William, then transfer to bus #919 to reach Inverness (3.75 hours total, with a 20-minute layover in Fort William) or Portree on the Isle of Skye (2/day, 4.5-5 hours total). A different bus (#976 or #977) connects Oban with Glasgow (3-8/day, 2.75-3 hours, some with transfer in Tyndrum), from where you can easily connect by bus or train to Edinburgh (figure 4.5 hours total). Buses arrive and depart in front of the Caledonian Hotel, across from the train station (tel. 08712/663-333, www.citylink.co.uk).
By Boat: Ferries fan out from Oban to the southern Hebrides (see information on the islands of Iona and Mull, later). Caledonian MacBrayne Ferry info: Tel. 01631/566-688, free booking tel. 0800-066-5000, www.calmac.co.uk.
Drivers coming from the south can consider these stopovers, which are listed in order from Glasgow to Oban.
Leaving Glasgow on the A-82, you’ll soon be driving along the scenic lake called Loch Lomond. The first picnic turnout has the best lake views, benches, a park, and a playground. Twenty-four miles long and speckled with islands, Loch Lomond is second in size only to Loch Ness. It’s well-known mostly because of its easy proximity to Glasgow (about 15 miles away)—and also because its bonnie, bonnie banks inspired a beloved folk song: “Ye’ll take the high road, and I’ll take the low road, and I’ll be in Scotland afore ye...” (You’ll be humming that one all day. You’re welcome.)
• Halfway up the loch, at Tarbet, take the “tourist route” left onto the A-83, driving along Loch Long toward Inveraray.
A low-profile pullout on the A-83 just west of the A-82 offers a pleasant opportunity to stretch your legs and get your first taste of that rugged Scottish countryside. The colorful name comes from the 1880s, when second- and third-class coach passengers got out and pushed the coach and first-class passengers up the hill.
Nearly everybody stops at this lovely, seemingly made-for-tourists castle town on Loch Fyne. Park near the pier and browse the wide selection of restaurants and tourist shops.
Inveraray’s TI sells bus and ferry tickets, has Internet access, and offers a free mini-guide and an exhibit about the Argyll region (daily June-Aug 9:00-18:00, Sept-Oct 10:00-17:00, Nov-March 10:00-16:00, April-May 9:00-17:00, last entry to exhibit one hour before closing, Front Street, tel. 01499/302-063). Public WCs are at the end of the nearby pier (£0.30).
The town’s main “sight” is the Inveraray Jail, an overpriced, corny, but mildly educational former jail converted into a museum. This “living 19th-century prison” includes a courtroom where mannequins argue the fate of the accused. You’ll have the opportunity to be locked up for a photo op by a playful guard (£9, daily April-Oct 9:30-18:00, Nov-March 10:00-17:00, last entry one hour before closing, Church Square, tel. 01499/302-381, www.inveraryjail.co.uk).
You’ll spot the dramatic Inveraray Castle on the right as you cross the bridge coming from Glasgow. This impressive-looking stronghold of one of the more notorious branches of the Campbell clan is striking from afar but dull inside; save your time for better Highlands castles elsewhere.
• To continue on to Oban, leave Inveraray through a gate (at the Woolen Mill) to the A-819, and go through Glen Aray and along Loch Awe. The A-85 takes you into Oban.
For the easiest one-day look at two of the dramatic and historic Hebrides (HEB-rid-eez) Islands, take the Iona/Mull tour from Oban. (For a more in-depth look, head north to Skye—see next chapter.)
Here’s the game plan: You’ll take a ferry from Oban to Mull (45 minutes), ride a Bowman’s bus across Mull (1.25 hours), then board a quick ferry from Mull to Iona. The total round-trip travel time is 5.5 hours (all of it incredibly scenic), plus about two hours of free time on Iona. Buy your strip of six tickets—one for each leg—at the Bowman’s office in Oban (£38, £2 discount with this book in 2013 for Iona/Mull tour, no tours Nov-March, book one day ahead in July-Sept if possible, bus tickets can sell out during busy summer weekends, office open daily 8:30-17:30, 1 Queens Park Place, a block from train station, tel. 01631/566-809 or 01631/563-221, www.bowmanstours.co.uk). For directions on how to buy individual tickets for various legs of this journey (for example, if you plan to sleep in Iona or spend a longer day there), see here.
You’ll leave in the morning from the Oban pier on the huge Oban-Mull ferry run by Caledonian MacBrayne (boats depart Sun-Fri at 9:50, Sat at 9:30, board at least 20 minutes before departure; boats return daily around 17:45). As the schedule can change slightly from year to year, confirm your departure time carefully in Oban. The best inside seats on the ferry—with the biggest windows—are in the sofa lounge on the uppermost deck (level 4) at the back end of the boat. (Follow signs for the toilets, and look for the big staircase to the top floor; this floor also has its own small snack bar with £3 sandwiches and £4 box lunches.) On board, if it’s a clear day, ask a local or a crew member to point out Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in Great Britain. The ferry has a fine cafeteria and a bookshop (though guidebooks are cheaper in Oban). Five minutes before landing on Mull, you’ll see the striking 13th-century Duart Castle on the left (www.duartcastle.com).
Walk-on passengers disembark from deck 3, across from the bookshop (port side). Upon arrival in Mull, find your tour company’s bus for the entertaining and informative ride across the Isle of Mull (bus may not have Bowman’s name on it; ask the drivers). The right (driver’s) side offers better sea views during the second half of the journey to Fionnphort, while the left side has fine views of Mull’s rolling wilderness. The bus drivers spend the entire ride chattering away about life on Mull, slowing to point out wildlife, and sharing adages like, “If there’s no flowers on the gorse, snogging’s gone out of fashion.” They are hardworking local boys who make historical trivia fascinating—or at least fun. Your destination is Mull’s westernmost ferry terminal (Fionnphort), where you’ll board a small, rocking ferry for the brief ride to Iona. Unless you stay overnight, you’ll have only about two hours to roam freely around the island before taking the ferry-bus-ferry ride in reverse back to Oban.
Though this trip is spectacular when it’s sunny, it’s worthwhile in any weather.
The Isle of Mull, the third-largest in Scotland, has 300 scenic miles of coastline and castles and a 3,169-foot-high mountain. Called Ben More (“Big Mountain” in Gaelic), it was once much bigger. At 10,000 feet tall, it made up the entire island of Mull—until a volcano erupted. Things are calmer now, and, similarly, Mull has a notably laid-back population. My bus driver reported that there are no deaths from stress, and only a few from boredom.
With steep, fog-covered hillsides topped by cairns (piles of stones, sometimes indicating graves) and ancient stone circles, Mull has a gloomy, otherworldly charm. Bring plenty of rain protection and wear layers in case the sun peeks through the clouds. As my driver said, Mull is a place of cold, wet, windy winters and mild, wet, windy summers.
On the far side of Mull, the caravan of tour buses unloads at Fionnphort, a tiny ferry town. The ferry to the island of Iona takes about 200 walk-on passengers. Confirm the return time with your bus driver, then hustle to the dock to make the first trip over (otherwise, it’s a 30-minute wait). There’s a small ferry-passenger building/meager snack bar (and a pay WC). After the 10-minute ride, you wash ashore on sleepy Iona (free WC on this side), and the ferry mobs that crowded you on the boat seem to disappear up the main road and into Iona’s back lanes.
The About Mull Tours and Taxi service can also get you around Mull (tel. 01681/700-507 or mobile 0788-777-4550, www.aboutmull.co.uk). They also do day tours of Mull (£35), focusing on local history and wildlife (half-day tours also available, shorter Mull tours can drop you off at Iona ferry dock at 15:00 for a quick Iona visit and pick you up at 18:00, minimum 2 people, smart to book ahead).
The tiny island of Iona, just 3 miles by 1.5 miles, is famous as the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland. You’ll have about two hours here on your own before you retrace your steps (your driver will tell you which return ferry to take back to Mull—don’t miss this boat).
A pristine quality of light and a thoughtful peace pervade the stark, (nearly) car-free island and its tiny community. With buoyant clouds bouncing playfully off distant bluffs, sparkling-white crescents of sand, and lone tourists camped thoughtfully atop huge rocks just looking out to sea, Iona is a place that’s perfect for meditation. Climb a peak—nothing’s higher than 300 feet above the sea.
Staying Longer on Iona: For a chance to really experience peaceful, idyllic Iona, consider spending a night or two. Scots bring their kids and stay on this tiny island for a week. If you want to overnight in Iona, don’t buy your tickets at Bowman’s in Oban—they require a same-day return. Instead, buy each leg of the ferry-bus-ferry (and return) trip separately. Get your Oban-Mull ferry ticket in the Oban ferry office (one-way for walk-on passengers-£5.25, round-trip-£8.25, ticket good for 5 days). Once you arrive in Mull (Craignure), follow the crowds to the Bowman buses and buy a ticket directly from the driver (£12 round-trip). When you arrive at the ferry terminal (Fionnphort), walk into the small trailer ferry office to buy a ticket to Iona (£2.40 each way). If it’s closed, just buy your ticket from the ferry worker at the dock (cash or credit/debit cards accepted; leaving Iona, do the same as there’s no ferry office).
If you want to spend more time on Iona (about four hours) and return to Oban the same day, you have another option. Take the first boat of the day, usually around 7:45, then connect at Mull to Bowman’s bus #496, which takes you to Fionnphort and the Iona ferry (no tour narration, buy each leg separately as described earlier). The benefit of taking the tour—besides the helpful commentary—is the guarantee of a seat each way. Ask at the Bowman’s office for details.
The village, Baile Mòr, has shops, a restaurant/pub, enough beds, and no bank (get cash back with a purchase at the grocery store). The only taxi on Iona is Iona Taxi (tel. 07810-325-990, www.ionataxi.co.uk). Up the road from the ferry dock is a little Spar grocery (Mon-Sat 9:00-17:15, Sun 12:00-16:00, shorter hours and closed Sun Oct-April, free island maps). Iona’s official website (www.isle-of-iona.net) has good information about the island.
A single paved road leads from the ferry, passing through the village and up a small hill to the nunnery ruins (one of the best-preserved medieval nunneries in Britain) before heading to the abbey, with its graveyard. St. Oran’s Chapel (in the graveyard) is the oldest church building on the island. Inside you’ll find several grave slabs carved in the distinctive Iona School style, which was developed by local stonecarvers in the 14th century. Look for the depictions of medieval warrior aristocrats. Many more of these carved graves have been moved to the abbey, where you can see them in its cloisters and old infirmary. It’s free to see the nunnery ruins, graveyard, and chapel; the abbey itself has an admission fee, but it’s worth the cost just to sit in the stillness of its lovely, peaceful interior courtyard (£5.50, not covered by bus tour ticket, includes 30-minute guided tour, £4 guidebook, daily April-Sept 9:30-17:00, Oct-March 9:30-16:00, tel. 01681/700-512, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk). While the present abbey, nunnery, and graveyard go back to the 13th century, much of what you’ll see was rebuilt in the 20th century.
Across from the abbey is the Iona Community’s information center (free WCs), which runs the abbey with Historic Scotland and hosts modern-day pilgrims who come here to experience the birthplace of Scottish Christianity. Its gift shop is packed with books on the island’s important role in Christian history.
If you have extra time, the Heritage Center is small but well done, with displays on local and natural history and a tiny tearoom (£3.25, Mon-Sat 10:30-16:30, closed Sun and Nov-mid-April; on the left past the nunnery ruins). You can also catch a worship service at the abbey (get times from Iona Community’s information center, tel. 01681/700-404, www.iona.org.uk).
A 10-minute walk past the abbey brings you to the footpath for Dun 1, a steep but short climb with good views of the abbey looking back toward Mull. From Dun 1, walk another 20-25 minutes to the end of the paved road, where you’ll arrive at a gate leading through a sheep- and cow-strewn pasture to Iona’s white-sand North Beach. Dip your toes in the Atlantic and ponder what this Caribbean-like alcove is doing in Scotland. Be sure to allow at least 40 minutes to return to the ferry dock.
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01681)
In addition to the options listed below, there are many B&Bs, apartments, and a hostel on the island (see www.isle-of-iona.net/accommodation).
$$$ Argyll Hotel, built in 1867, proudly overlooks the waterfront, with 16 cottage-like rooms and pleasingly creaky hallways lined with bookshelves (Sb-£57-64, D-£65-75, Db-£84-98, larger Db-£123-166, cheaper off-season, extra bed for kids-£15, reserve far in advance for July-Aug, free Wi-Fi, comfortable lounge and sunroom, tel. 01681/700-334, fax 01681/700-510, www.argyllhoteliona.co.uk, reception@argyllhoteliona.co.uk). Its white-linen dining room is open to the public for lunch (12:30-13:30, tea served until 16:00) and dinner (£12-17 main courses, 19:30-20:00). Both the hotel and restaurant are closed from November through mid-March.
$$$ St. Columba Hotel, situated in the middle of a peaceful garden with picnic tables, has 27 institutional rooms and spacious lodge-like common spaces (Sb-£51-82, Db-£84-145, huge view Db-£160-180, front rooms have sea views but windows are small, discounts for stays of 4 or more nights, extra bed for kids-£15, free Internet access, closed Nov-March, next door to abbey on road up from dock, tel. 01681/700-304, fax 01681/700-688, www.stcolumba-hotel.co.uk, info@stcolumba-hotel.co.uk). Their fine 21-table restaurant, overlooking the water, is open to the public for lunch (£5-10, daily 12:00-14:30), tea (14:00-17:00), and dinner (£10-13, 18:30-20:00). Even if you’re not staying here, you can stop by to use the Internet (£0.50/15 minutes).
$$ Calva B&B, near the abbey, has three spacious rooms (Db-£60, second house on left past the abbey, look for sign in window and gnomes on porch, tel. 01681/700-340; friendly Janetta, Ken, and Jack the bearded collie).
This valley is the essence of the wild, powerful, and stark beauty of the Highlands. Along with its scenery, Glencoe offers a good dose of bloody clan history: In 1692, British Redcoats (led by a local Campbell commander) came to the valley, and were sheltered and fed for 12 days by the MacDonalds—whose leader had been late in swearing an oath to the British monarch. Then, the morning of February 13, the soldiers were ordered to rise up early and kill their sleeping hosts, violating the rules of Highland hospitality and earning the valley the name “The Weeping Glen.” It’s fitting that such an epic, dramatic incident should be set in this equally epic, dramatic valley, where the cliffsides seem to weep (with running streams) when it rains.
The valley of Glencoe is just off the main A-828/A-82 road between Oban and points north (such as Fort William and Inverness). (If you’re coming from the north, the signage can be tricky—at the roundabout south of Fort William, follow signs to Crianlarich and A-82.) The most appealing town here is the one-street Glencoe village, while the slightly larger and more modern town of Ballachulish (a half-mile away) has more services. Though not quite quaint, the very sleepy village of Glencoe is worth a stop for its folk museum and its status as the gateway to the valley. The town’s hub of activity is its grocery store (ATM, daily 8:00-20:00).
Your best source of information (especially for walks and hikes) is the Glencoe Visitors Centre, described later. The nearest TI is well-signed in Ballachulish (daily 9:00-17:00, opens at 10:00 on Sun in winter, bus timetables, free phone to call area B&Bs, café, shop, tel. 01855/811-866, www.glencoetourism.co.uk). For more information on the area, see www.discoverglencoe.com.
Glencoe village is just a line of houses sitting beneath the brooding mountains.
Glencoe and North Lorn Folk Museum—Two tiny, thatched-roof, early-18th-century croft houses are jammed with local history, creating a huggable museum filled with humble exhibits gleaned from the town’s old closets and attics. When one house was being rethatched, its owner found a cache of 200-year-old swords and pistols hidden there from the British Redcoats after the disastrous battle of Culloden. Be sure to look for the museum’s little door that leads out back, where you’ll find more exhibits on the Glencoe Massacre, native slate, farm tools, and an infamous murder in the area that inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to write Kidnapped.
Cost and Hours: £3, call ahead for hours—generally Easter-Oct Mon-Sat 10:30-16:30, closed Sun and off-season, tel. 01855/811-664, www.glencoemuseum.com.
▲▲Driving Through Glencoe Valley—If you have a car, spend an hour or so following the A-82 through the valley, past the Glencoe Visitors Centre (see next listing), into the desolate moor beyond, and back again. You’ll enjoy grand views, flocks of “hairy coos” (shaggy Highland Cattle), and a chance to hear a bagpiper in the wind—roadside Highland buskers (most often seen on good-weather summer weekends). If you play the recorder (and no other tourists are there), ask to finger a tune while the piper does the hard work. At the end of the valley you hit the vast Rannoch Moor—500 desolate square miles with barely enough decent land to graze a sheep.
Glencoe Visitors Centre—This modern facility, a mile up the A-82 past Glencoe village (off to the left) into the dramatic valley, is designed to resemble a clachan, or traditional Highlands settlement. The information desk inside the shop is your single best resource for advice (and maps or guidebooks) about local walks and hikes, some of which are described next. At the back of the complex you’ll find a viewpoint with a handy 3-D model of the hills for orientation. There’s also a pricey £6 exhibition about the surrounding landscape, the region’s history, mountaineering, and conservation. It’s worth the time to watch the more-interesting-than-it-sounds video on geology and the 14-minute film on the Glencoe Massacre, which thoughtfully traces the events leading up to the tragedy rather than simply recycling romanticized legends.
Cost and Hours: Free; April-Oct daily 9:30-17:30; Nov-March Thu-Sun 10:00-16:00, closed Mon-Wed; last entry 45 minutes before closing, café, tel. 01855/811-307, www.glencoe-nts.org.uk.
Walks—For a steep one-mile hike, climb the Devil’s Staircase (trailhead just off the A-82, 8 miles east of Glencoe). For a three-hour hike, ask at the visitors center about the Lost Valley of the MacDonalds (trailhead just off the A-82, 3 miles east of Glencoe). For an easy walk above Glencoe, head to the mansion on the hill (over the bridge, turn left, fine loch views). This mansion was built in 1894 by Canadian Pacific Railway magnate Lord Strathcona for his wife, a Canadian with First Nations (Native American) ancestry. She was homesick for the Rockies, so he had the grounds landscaped to represent the lakes, trees, and mountains of her home country. It didn’t work, and they eventually returned to Canada. The house originally had 365 windows, to allow a different view each day.
Glencoe’s Burial Island and Island of Discussion—In the loch just outside Glencoe (near Ballachulish), notice the burial island—where the souls of those who “take the low road” are piped home. (Ask a local about “Ye’ll take the high road, and I’ll take the low road.”) The next island was the Island of Discussion—where those in dispute went until they found agreement.
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01855)
Glencoe is an extremely low-key place to spend the night between Oban or Glasgow and the northern destinations. These places are accustomed to one-nighters just passing through, but some people stay here for several days to enjoy a variety of hikes. The following B&Bs are along the main road through the middle of the village, and all are cash-only.
$$ Inchconnal B&B is a cute, renovated house with a bonnie wee potted garden out front, renting two bright rooms with views—one cottage-style, the other woodsy (Db-£46-54, tel. 01855/811-958, www.inchconnal.com, enquiries@inchconnal.com, warm Caroline MacDonald).
$$ Heatherlea B&B, at the end of the village, has three pleasant, modern rooms, homey public spaces, and a big board-game collection (Sb-£28-32, Db-£56-64, closed Nov-Easter, tel. 01855/811-799, heatherleaglencoe@gmail.com, friendly Ivan and Thea).
$$ Tulachgorm B&B has two comfortable rooms that share a bathroom in a modern house with fine mountain views (D-£50, tel. 01855/811-391, mellow Ann Blake and friendly West Highland terrier Jo).
Outside of town, $$$ Clachaig Inn works well for hikers who want a comfy mountain inn (Db-£92-96, tel. 01855/811-252, www.clachaig.com; for directions, see “Eating in Glencoe,” next).
The choices around Glencoe are slim—this isn’t the place for fine dining. But three options offer decent food a short walk or drive away. For evening fun, take a walk or ask your B&B host where to find music and dancing.
In Glencoe: The only choice in Glencoe village is The Glencoe Hotel, with lovely dining areas and a large outdoor deck (£8-10 main courses, food served daily 12:00-14:00 & 18:00-20:30, at junction of the A-82 and Glencoe village, tel. 01855/811-245).
Near Glencoe: Clachaig Inn is a Highlands pub in a stunning valley setting whose clientele is half locals and half tourists. This unpretentious and very popular social hub features billiards, jukeboxes, and pub grub (£5-13 main courses, open daily for lunch and dinner, tel. 01855/811-252). Drive to the end of Glencoe village, cross the bridge, and follow the little single-track road for three miles, past campgrounds and hostels, until you reach the inn on the right.
In Ballachulish: Laroch Bar & Bistro, in the next village over from Glencoe (toward Oban), is family-friendly (£6-9 pub grub, food served 12:00-14:30 & 17:30-21:00, tel. 01855/811-900). Drive into Ballachulish village, and you’ll see it on the left.
Unfortunately, buses don’t actually drive down the main road through Glencoe village. Some buses (most notably those going between Glasgow and Fort William) stop near Glencoe village at a place called “Glencoe Crossroads”—a short walk into the village center. Other buses (such as those between Oban and Fort William) stop at the nearby town of Ballachulish, which is just a half-mile away (or a £3 taxi ride). Tell the bus driver where you’re going (“Glencoe village”) and ask to be let off as close to there as possible.
From Glencoe Crossroads, you can catch bus #914, #915, or #916 (8/day) to Fort William (30 minutes) or Glasgow (2.5 hours).
From Ballachulish, you can take bus #918 (3/day in summer, 2/day off-season, never on Sun) to Fort William (30 minutes) or Oban (1 hour). Bus info: Tel. 08712/663-333, www.citylink.co.uk.
To reach Inverness or Portree on the Isle of Skye, transfer in Fort William. To reach Edinburgh, transfer in Glasgow.
Laying claim to the title of “outdoor capital of the UK,” Fort William is well-positioned between Oban, Inverness, and the Isle of Skye. This crossroads town is a transportation hub and has a pleasant-enough, shop-studded, pedestrianized main drag, but few charms of its own. Most visitors just pass through...and should. But while you’re here, consider buying lunch and stopping by the TI to get your questions answered.
Tourist Information: The TI is on the car-free main drag (June-Aug Mon-Sat 9:30-18:30, Sun 9:30-17:00; Easter-May and Sept-Oct Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-17:00; shorter hours off-season; Internet access, free public WCs up the street next to parking lot, 15 High Street, tel. 0845/225-5121).
West Highland Museum—This humble-but-well-presented museum is Fort William’s only real sight. It features exhibits on local history, wildlife, dress, Jacobite memorabilia, and more.
Cost and Hours: Free, guidebook-£2.50, Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Nov-Dec and March until 16:00, closed Sun and Jan-Feb, on Cameron Square, tel. 01397/702-169, www.westhighlandmuseum.org.uk.
The appealing options described below lie just outside of town.
From Fort William, take a peek at Britain’s highest peak, Ben Nevis (4,409 feet). Thousands walk to its summit each year. On a clear day, you can admire it from a distance. Scotland’s only mountain cable cars—at the Nevis Range Mountain Experience—can take you to a not-very-lofty 2,150-foot perch on the slopes of Aonach Mor for a closer look (£11.25, daily July-Aug 9:30-18:00, Sept-June 10:00-17:00, 15-minute ride, shuts down in high winds and mid-Nov-mid-Dec—call ahead, signposted on the A-82 north of Fort William, tel. 01397/705-825, www.nevisrange.co.uk). They also have high-wire obstacle courses (£24, under age 17-£16.50, sessions run throughout the day, call for more information).
The magical steam train that scenically transports Harry Potter to the wizarding school of Hogwarts runs along a real-life train line. The West Highland Railway Line chugs 42 miles from Fort William west to the ferry port at Mallaig. Along the way, it passes the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct, with 416 yards of raised track over 21 supporting arches. This route is also graced with plenty of loch-and-mountain views and, near the end, passes along a beautiful stretch of coast with some fine sandy beaches. While many people take the Jacobite Steam Train to enjoy this stretch of Scotland, it can be more rewarding to drive the same route—especially if you’re headed for the Isle of Skye.
By Train: The Jacobite Steam Train (they don’t actually call it the “Hogwarts Express”) offers a small taste of the Harry Potter experience...but many who take this trip for that reason alone are disappointed. (For more Harry Potter sights in Britain, see here.) Although one of the steam engines and some of the coaches were used in the films, don’t expect a Harry Potter theme ride. However, you can expect beautiful scenery. Along the way, the train stops for 20 minutes at Glenfinnan Station (just after the Glenfinnan Viaduct), and then gives you way too much time (1.75 hours) to poke around the dull port town of Mallaig before heading back to Fort William (one-way—£27 adults, £16 kids; round-trip—£32 adults, £18 kids; £3 booking fee, more for first class, tickets must be purchased in advance—see details next, 1/day Mon-Fri mid-May-early June and Sept-late Oct, 2/day Mon-Fri early June-Aug, also 1/day Sat-Sun July-Aug, departs Fort William at 10:15 and returns at 16:00, afternoon service in summer departs Fort William at 14:30 and returns at 20:24, about a 2-hour ride each way, WCs on board, tel. 08451/284-681 or 08451/284-685, www.westcoastrailways.co.uk).
Note: Trains leave Fort William from the main train station, but you must book ahead online or by phone—you cannot buy tickets for this train at the Fort William or Mallaig train-station ticket offices. There may be a limited amount of seats available each day on a first-come, first-served basis (cash only, buy from conductor), but in summer, trips are often sold out.
The 84-mile round-trip from Fort William takes the better part of a day to show you the same scenery twice. Modern “Sprinter” trains follow the same line—consider taking the steam train one-way to Mallaig, then speeding back on a regular train to avoid the long Mallaig layover and slow return (£6.50 one-way between Fort William and Mallaig, 1.25 hours, 2-3/day, book at least two days ahead July-Aug, tel. 08457-550-033, www.scotrail.co.uk). Note that you can use this train to reach the Isle of Skye: Take the train to Mallaig, walk onto the ferry to Armadale (on Skye), then catch a bus in Armadale to your destination on Skye (tel. 08712/663-333, www.citylink.co.uk).
There are lockers for storing luggage at the Fort William train station (£4-5/24 hours, station open Mon-Sat 7:20-22:10, Sun 11:30-22:10).
By Car: While the train is time-consuming and expensive, driving the same “Road to the Isles” route (A-830)—ideally on your way to Skye—can be a fun way to see the same famous scenery more affordably and efficiently. The key here is to be sure you leave enough time to make it to Mallaig before the Skye ferry departs—get timing advice from the Fort William TI. I’d allow at least 1 hour and 20 minutes to get from Fort William to the ferry landing in Mallaig (if you keep moving, with no stops en route)—and note that vehicles are required to arrive 30 minutes before the boat departs. As you leave Fort William on the A-830, a sign on the left tells you what time the next ferry will depart Mallaig. For more tips on the Mallaig-Armadale ferry, see “Getting to the Isle of Skye” on here.
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01397)
These two B&Bs are on Union Road, a five-minute walk up the hill above the main pedestrian street that runs through the heart of town. Each place has three rooms, one of which has a private bathroom on the hall.
$$ Glenmorven Guest House is a friendly, flower-bedecked, family-run place renting rooms with views of Loch Linnhe (Db-£65, free pick-up from train or bus station with advance notice, laundry service, Union Road, Fort William, tel. 01397/703-236, www.glenmorven.co.uk, glenmorven@yahoo.com, Anne and Colin Jamieson).
$$ Gowan Brae B&B (“Hill of the Big Daisy”) has three antique-filled rooms with loch or garden views in a hobbit-cute house (Db-£70 in high season, £60 off-season, free Wi-Fi, Union Road, tel. 01397/704-399, www.gowanbrae.co.uk, gowan_brae@btinternet.com, Jim and Ann Clark).
All three places listed below are on the main walking street, near the start of town; the first two serve only lunch.
Hot Roast Company sells beef, turkey, ham, or pork sandwiches, topped with some tasty extras (£3 take-away, a bit more for sit-down service, Mon-Sat 9:30-15:30, closed Sun, 127 High Street, tel. 01397/700-606).
Café 115 features good food and modern bistro decor (£4-8 meals, £8 fish-and-chips, daily 10:00-17:00, mid-July-Aug until 21:30, 115 High Street, tel. 01397/702-500).
The Grog & Gruel serves real ales, good pub grub, and Tex-Mex and Cajun dishes, with unusual meals such as vegetarian haggis with Drambuie sauce, boar burgers, and venison chili (£5-12 meals, food served daily 12:00-23:30, Sun in winter 17:00-23:30, free Wi-Fi, 66 High Street, tel. 01397/705-078). Their upstairs restaurant features the same menu (daily 17:00-23:30).
Fort William is a major transit hub for the Highlands, so you’ll likely change buses here at some point during your trip.
From Fort William by Bus to: Glencoe (all Glasgow-bound buses—#914, #915, and #916; 8/day, 30 minutes), Ballachulish near Glencoe (Oban-bound bus #918, 3/day in summer, 2/day off-season, never on Sun, 30 minutes), Oban (bus #918, 3/day in summer, 2/day off-season, never on Sun, 1.5 hours), Portree on the Isle of Skye (buses #915 and #916, 3/day, 3.5 hours), Inverness (Citylink bus #919 or Stagecoach bus #19, 8/day, 2 hours), Glasgow (buses #914, #915, and #916; 8/day, 3 hours), Edinburgh (bus #913, 1/day direct, 4 hours; more with transfer in Glasgow on buses #900 and #914/915, 5 hours). Bus info: Tel. 0871-266-3333, www.citylink.co.uk or www.stagecoachbus.com.
From Oban to Glencoe and Fort William: From Oban, follow the coastal A-828 toward Fort William. After about 20 miles, you’ll see the photogenic Castle Staulker marooned on a lonely island. At North Ballachulish, you’ll reach a bridge spanning Loch Leven; rather than crossing the bridge, turn off and follow the A-82 into the Glencoe Valley. After exploring the valley, make a U-turn and return through Glencoe. To continue on to Fort William, backtrack to the bridge at North Ballachulish and cross it, following the A-82 north. (For a scenic shortcut directly back to Glasgow or Edinburgh, head north only as far as Glencoe, and then cut to Glasgow or Edinburgh on the A-82 via Rannoch Moor and Tyndrum.)
From Fort William to Loch Ness and Inverness: Follow the Caledonian Canal north along the A-82, which goes through Fort Augustus (and its worthwhile Caledonian Canal Heritage Centre) and then follows the west side of Loch Ness on its way to Inverness. Along the way, the A-82 passes Urquhart Castle and two Loch Ness Monster exhibits in Drumnadrochit. These attractions are described in the Inverness and the Northern Highlands chapter.
From Fort William to the Isle of Skye: You have two options for this journey: Head west on the A-830 (the Road to the Isles), then catch the ferry from Mallaig to Armadale on the Isle of Skye (described on here); or head north on the A-82 to Invergarry, and turn left (west) on the A-87, which you’ll follow (past Eilean Donan Castle) to Kyle of Lochalsh and the Skye Bridge to the island. Consider using one route one way, and the other on the return trip—for example, follow the “Road to the Isles” from Fort William to Mallaig, and take the ferry to Skye; later, leaving Skye, take the A-87 east from the Skye Bridge past Eilean Donan Castle to Loch Ness and Inverness.