Orientation to the Isle of Skye
More Sights on the Isle of Skye
Eating Elsewhere on the Isle of Skye
The Trotternish Peninsula • More Sights on the Isle of Skye • Portree • Kyleakin
The rugged, remote-feeling Isle of Skye has a reputation for unpredictable weather (“Skye” means “cloudy” in Old Norse, and locals call it “The Misty Isle”). But it also offers some of Scotland’s best scenery, and it rarely fails to charm its many visitors. Narrow, twisty roads wind around Skye in the shadows of craggy, black, bald mountains.
Skye seems to have more sheep than people; 200 years ago, many human residents were forced to move off the island to make room for more livestock during the Highland Clearances. The people who remain are some of the most ardently Gaelic Scots in Scotland. The island’s Sleat Peninsula is home to a rustic but important Gaelic college. Half of all native island residents speak Gaelic (which they pronounce “gallic”) as their first language. A generation ago, it was illegal to teach Gaelic in schools; today, Skye offers its residents the opportunity to enroll in Gaelic-only education, from primary school to college.
Set up camp in one of the island’s home-base towns, Portree or Kyleakin. Then dive into Skye’s attractions. Drive around the appealing Trotternish Peninsula, enjoying stark vistas of jagged rock formations with the mysterious Outer Hebrides looming on the horizon. Explore a gaggle of old-fashioned stone homes, learn about Skye’s ancient farming lifestyles, and pay homage at the grave of a brave woman who rescued a bonnie prince. Climb the dramatic Cuillin Hills, and drive to a lighthouse at the end of the world. Visit a pair of castles—the run-down but thought-provoking Dunvegan, and nearby but not on Skye, the photo-perfect Eilean Donan.
With a week in Scotland, Skye merits two nights, with a full day to hit its highlights (Trotternish Peninsula, Dunvegan Castle, Cuillin Hills, Talisker Distillery). Mountaineers need extra time for hiking and hillwalking. Because it takes time to reach, Skye (the northernmost destination in this book) is skippable if you only have a few days in Scotland—instead, focus on Edinburgh and the more accessible Highlands sights near Oban.
Skye fits neatly into a Highlands itinerary between Oban/Glencoe and Loch Ness/Inverness. To avoid seeing the same scenery twice, it works well to drive the “Road to the Isles” from Fort William to Mallaig, then take the ferry to Skye; later, leave Skye via the Skye Bridge and follow the A-87 east toward Loch Ness and Inverness, stopping at Eilean Donan Castle en route.
By Car: Your easiest bet is the slick, free Skye Bridge that crosses from Kyle of Lochalsh on the mainland to Kyleakin on Skye (for more on the bridge, see here).
The island can also be reached from the mainland via a pair of car ferry crossings. The major ferry line connects the mainland town of Mallaig (west of Fort William along the “Road to the Isles” and the Harry Potter steam-train line—see here) to Armadale on Skye (£22.60/car, £4.35/passenger, late March-late Oct 8/day each way, 4-6/day on Sun, late Oct-late March very limited Sat-Sun connections, check-in closes 30 minutes before sailing, can be canceled in rough weather, 30-minute trip, operated by Caledonian MacBrayne, www.calmac.co.uk). A tiny six-car, proudly local “turntable” ferry crosses the short gap between the mainland Glenelg and Skye’s Kylerhea (£14/car with up to 4 passengers, £20 round-trip, roughly Easter-Oct daily every 20 minutes 10:00-18:00, June-Aug until 19:00, no need to book ahead, no boats off-season, Skye Ferry, www.skyeferry.co.uk).
By Public Transportation: Skye is connected to the outside world by a series of Scottish Citylink buses (www.citylink.co.uk), which use Portree as their Skye hub. From Portree, buses connect to Inverness (bus #917, 3-4/day, 3.25 hours), Glasgow (buses #915 and #916, 3/day, 6.5-7.5 hours, also stops at Fort William and Glencoe), and Edinburgh (4/day, 7.5-8 hours, transfer in Inverness or Glasgow).
There are also some more complicated connections possible for the determined: Take the train from Edinburgh, Glasgow, or Inverness to Fort William; transfer to the steam train to Mallaig; take the ferry across to Armadale; and catch a bus to Portree. Alternatively, you can take the train from Edinburgh or Glasgow to Inverness, take the train to Kyle of Lochalsh, then take the bus to Portree.
The Isle of Skye is big (over 600 square miles), with lots of ins and outs—but you’re never more than five miles from the sea. The island is punctuated by peninsulas and inlets (called “sea lochs”). Skye is covered with hills, but the most striking are the mountain-like Cuillin Hills in the south-central part of the island.
There are only about 11,000 people on the entire island; roughly a quarter live in the main village, Portree. Other population centers include Kyleakin (near the bridge connecting Skye with the mainland) and Broadford (a tidy string of houses on the road between Portree and the bridge, with the biggest and handiest grocery store on the island). A few of the villages—including Broadford and Dunvegan—have TIs, but the most useful one is in Portree.
By Car: Once on Skye, you’ll need a car to enjoy the island. (Even if you’re doing the rest of your trip by public transportation, a car rental is worthwhile here to bypass the frustrating public-transportation options; I’ve listed some car-rental options in Portree on here.) If you’re driving, a good map is a must (look for a 1:130,000 map that covers the entire island with enough detail to point out side roads and attractions). You’ll be surprised how long it takes to traverse this “small” island. Here are driving-time estimates for some likely trips: Kyleakin and Skye Bridge to Portree—45 minutes; Portree to Dunvegan—30 minutes; Portree to the tip of Trotternish Peninsula and back again—1.5-2 hours; Uig (on Trotternish Peninsula) to Dunvegan—45 minutes.
By Bus: Skye is frustrating by bus, especially on Sundays, when virtually no local buses run (except for a few long-distance buses to the ferry dock and mainland destinations). Portree is the hub for bus traffic. Most Skye buses are operated by Stagecoach (www.stagecoachbus.com/highlands, timetable info from Traveline, tel. 0871-200-2233, www.traveline.org.uk). If you’ll be using buses a lot, consider a Skye Dayrider ticket (£7.50/1 day, includes Kyle of Lochalsh) or the Skye North Island Megarider (£30/7 days, covers the northern half of Skye, including Portree, Dunvegan, and the Trotternish Peninsula; no Megarider for southern half of the island). You can buy either of these tickets from any driver.
From Portree, you can go around the Trotternish Peninsula (#57, Mon-Sat 4-5/day in each direction—clockwise and counterclockwise; none on Sun), and to Dunvegan (#56, 5/day Mon-Fri, 3/day Sat, none on Sun, 40 minutes, goes right to the castle, catch a bus that leaves no later than 12:45 to have enough time at the castle). To bus it from Portree to Kyleakin, you’ll need to travel on Scottish Citylink (#917, 4/day, 55 minutes).
By Tour: If you’re without a car, consider taking a tour. Several operations on the island take visitors to hard-to-reach spots on a half-day or full-day tour. Some are more educational, while others are loose and informal. Look for brochures around the island, or ask locals for tips. Kathleen MacAskil with Skye Tours gives private tours by car or minibus (about £125/4 hours, minimum 2 people, tel. 01470/582-306, kathleenmacaskil@aol.com).
This inviting peninsula north of Portree is packed with windswept castaway scenery, unique geological formations, and some offbeat sights. In good weather, a spin around Trotternish is the single best Skye activity (and you’ll still have time to visit Dunvegan Castle or the Cuillin Hills later on).
The following loop tour starts and ends in Portree, circling the peninsula counterclockwise. If you did it without stopping, you’d make it back to Portree within two hours—but it deserves the better part of a day. Note that from Portree to Uig, you’ll be driving on a paved single-track road; use the occasional “passing places” to pull over and allow faster cars to go by.
Begin in the island’s main town, Portree. (If you’re heading up from Kyleakin, you’ll enjoy some grand views of the Cuillin Hills on your way up—especially around the crossroads of Sligachan, described on here.) For sightseeing information on Portree—and the nearby Aros visitors center—see here.
• Head north of Portree on the A-855, following signs for Staffin. About three miles out of town, you’ll begin to enjoy some impressive views of the Trotternish Ridge. As you pass the small loch on your right, straight ahead is the distinctive feature called the...
Old Man of Storr: This 160-foot-tall tapered slab of basalt stands proudly apart from the rest of the Storr. The unusual landscape of the Trotternish Peninsula is due to massive landslides (the largest in Britain). This block slid down the cliff about 6,500 years ago and landed on its end, where it was slowly whittled by weather into a pinnacle. The lochs on your right have been linked together to spin the turbines at a nearby hydroelectric plant that once provided all of Skye’s electricity.
• After passing the Old Man, enjoy the scenery on your right, overlooking...
Nearby Islands and the Mainland: Some of Skye’s most appealing scenery isn’t of the island itself, but of the surrounding terrain. In the distance, craggy mountains recede into the horizon. The long island in the foreground, a bit to the north, is called Rona. This military-owned island, and the channel behind it, were used to develop and test one of Margaret Thatcher’s pet projects, the Sting Ray remote-control torpedo.
• After about five miles, keep an eye out on the right for a large parking lot near a wee loch. Park and walk to the viewpoint to see...
Kilt Rock: So named because of its resemblance to a Scotsman’s tartan kilt, this 200-foot-tall sea cliff has a layer of volcanic rock with vertical lava columns that look like pleats (known as columnar jointing), sitting atop a layer of horizontal sedimentary rock.
• After continuing through the village of Staffin (whose name means “the pinnacle place”), you’ll begin to see interesting rock formations high on the hill to your left. When you get to the crossroads, head left toward the Quiraing (a rock formation). This crossroads is a handy pit stop—there’s a public WC in the little white building behind the red phone box just up the main road.
Now twist your way up the road to the...
Quiraing: As you drive up, notice (on your left) a couple of modern cemeteries high in the hills, far above the village. It seems like a strange spot to bury the dead, in the middle of nowhere. But it’s logical since the earth here is less valuable for development, and since it’s not clay, like down by the water, it also provides better drainage.
You’ll enjoy fine views on the right of the jagged, dramatic northern end of the Trotternish Ridge, called the Quiraing—rated ▲▲. More landslides caused the dramatic scenery in this area, and each rock formation has a name, such as “The Needle” or “The Prison.” As you approach the summit of this road, you’ll reach a parking area on the left. This marks a popular trailhead for hiking out to get a closer look at the formations. If you’ve got the time, energy, and weather for a sturdy 30-minute uphill hike, here’s your chance. You can either follow the trail along the base of the rock formations, or hike up to the top of the plateau and follow it to the end (both paths are faintly visible from the parking area). Once up top, your reward is a view of the secluded green plateau called “The Table,” another landslide block, which isn’t visible from the road.
• You could continue on this road all the way to Uig, at the other end of the peninsula, but it’s worth backtracking, then turning left onto the main road (A-855), to see the...
Tip of Trotternish: A few miles north, you’ll pass a hotel called Flodigarry, with a cottage on the premises that was once home to Bonnie Prince Charlie’s rescuer, Flora MacDonald (her story is explained later; the cottage is now part of the hotel and not open to the public).
Soon after, at the top of the ridge at the tip of the peninsula, you’ll see the remains of an old fort—not from the Middle Ages or the days of Bonnie Prince Charlie, but from World War II, when the Atlantic was monitored for U-boats from this position.
Then you’ll pass (on the right) the crumbling remains of another fort, this one much older: Duntulm Castle, which was the first stronghold on Skye of the influential MacDonald clan. The castle was abandoned around 1730 for Armadale Castle on the southern end of Skye; according to legend, the family left after a nursemaid accidentally dropped the infant heir out a window onto the rocks below. In the distance beyond, you can see the Outer Hebrides—the most rugged, remote, and Gaelic part of Scotland. (Skye, a bit closer to the mainland, belongs to the Inner Hebrides.)
• A mile after the castle, you’ll come to a place called Kilmuir. Watch for the turn-off on the left to the excellent...
Skye Museum of Island Life: This fine little stand of seven thatched stone huts, organized into a family-run museum and worth ▲▲, explains how a typical Skye family lived a century and a half ago (£2.50, Easter-Oct Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, closed Sun and Nov-Easter, tel. 01470/552-206, www.skyemuseum.co.uk). Though there are ample posted explanations, the £1.25 guidebook is worthwhile.
The three huts closest to the sea are original (more than 200 years old). Most interesting is the one called The Old Croft House, which was the residence of the Graham family until 1957. Inside you’ll find three rooms: kitchen (with peat-burning fire) on the right, parents’ bedroom in the middle, and a bedroom for the 12 kids on the left. Nearby, The Old Barn displays farm implements, and the Ceilidh House contains some dense but very informative displays about crofting (the traditional tenant-farmer lifestyle on Skye—explained later), Gaelic, and other topics.
The four other huts were reconstructed here from elsewhere on the island, and now house exhibits about weaving and the village smithy (which was actually a gathering place). As you explore, admire the smart architecture of these humble but deceptively well-planned structures. Rocks hanging from the roof keep the thatch from blowing away, and the streamlined shape of the structure embedded in the ground encourages strong winds to deflect around the hut rather than hit it head-on.
• After touring the museum, drive out to the very end of the small road that leads past the parking lot, to a lonesome cemetery. The tallest Celtic cross at the far end of the cemetery (you can enter the gate to reach it) is the...
Monument to Flora MacDonald: This local heroine supposedly rescued beloved Scottish hero Bonnie Prince Charlie at his darkest hour. After his loss at Culloden, and with a hefty price on his head, Charlie retreated to the Outer Hebrides. But the Hanover dynasty, which controlled the islands, was closing in. Flora MacDonald rescued the prince, disguised him as her Irish maid, Betty Burke, and sailed him to safety on Skye. (Charlie pulled off the ruse thanks to his soft, feminine features—hence the nickname “Bonnie,” which means “beautiful.”) The flight inspired a popular Scottish folk song: “Speed bonnie boat like a bird on the wing, / Onward, the sailors cry. / Carry the lad that’s born to be king / Over the sea to Skye.” For more on Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Battle of Culloden, see here.
• Return to the main road and proceed about six miles around the peninsula. On the right, notice the big depression.
The Missing Loch: This was once a large loch, but it was drained in the mid-20th century to create more grazing land for sheep. If you look closely, you may see a scattering of stones in the middle of the field. Once a little island, this is the site of a former monastery...now left as high, dry, and forgotten as the loch. Beyond the missing loch is Prince Charlie’s Point, where the bonnie prince supposedly came ashore on Skye with Flora MacDonald.
• Soon after the loch, you’ll drop down over the town of...
Uig: Pronounced “OO-eeg,” this village is the departure point for ferries to the Outer Hebrides (North Uist and Harris islands, 3/day). It’s otherwise unremarkable, but does have a café with good sandwiches (follow Uig Pier signs into town, blue building with white Café sign, next to ferry terminal at entrance to town).
• Continue past Uig, climbing the hill across the bay. Near the top is a large parking strip on the right. Pull over here and look back to Uig for a lesson about Skye’s traditional farming system.
Crofting: You’ll hear a lot about crofts during your time on Skye. Traditionally, arable land on the island was divided into plots. If you look across to the hills above Uig, you can see strips of demarcated land running up from the water—these are crofts. Crofts were generally owned by landlords (mostly English aristocrats or Scottish clan chiefs, and later the Scottish government) and rented to tenant farmers. The crofters lived and worked under very difficult conditions, and were lucky if they could produce enough potatoes, corn, and livestock to feed their families. Rights to farm the croft were passed down from father to son over generations, but always under the auspices of a wealthy landlord.
Finally, in 1976, new legislation kicked off a process of privatization called “decrofting.” Suddenly crofters could have their land decrofted, then buy it for an affordable price (£130 per quarter-hectare, or about £8,000 for one of the crofts you see here). Many decroftees would quickly turn around and sell their old family home for a huge profit, but hang on to most of their land and build a new house at the other end. In the crofts you see here, notice that some have a house at the top of a strip of land and another house at the bottom. Many crofts (like most of these) are no longer cultivated, but that should change, as crofters are now legally required to farm their land...or lose it. In many cases, families who have other jobs still hang on to their traditional croft, which they use to grow produce for themselves or to supplement their income.
• Our tour is finished. From here, you can continue along the main road south toward Portree (and possibly continue from there on to the Cuillin Hills). Or take the shortcut road just after Kensaleyre (B-8036), and head west on the A-850 to Dunvegan and its castle. Both options are described later.
These dramatic, rocky “hills” (which look more like mountains to me) stretch along the southern coast of the island, dominating Skye’s landscape. More craggy and alpine than anything else you’ll see in Scotland, the Cuillin seem to rise directly from the deep. You’ll see them from just about anywhere on the southern two-thirds of the island, but no roads actually take you through the heart of the Cuillin—that’s reserved for hikers and climbers, who love this area. To get the best views with a car, consider these options:
Near Sligachan: The road from the Skye Bridge to Portree is the easiest way to appreciate the Cuillin (you’ll almost certainly drive along here at some point during your visit). These mountains are all that’s left of a long-vanished volcano. As you approach, you’ll clearly see that there are three separate ranges (from right to left): red, gray, and black. The steep and challenging Black Cuillin is the most popular for serious climbers; the granite Red Cuillin ridge is more rounded.
The crossroads of Sligachan, with an old triple-arched bridge and a landmark hotel (see here), is nestled at the foothills of the Cuillin, and is a popular launch pad for mountain fun. The 2,500-foot-tall cone-shaped hill looming over Sligachan, named Glamaig (“Greedy Lady”), is the site of an annual 4.5-mile race in July: Speed hikers begin at the door of the Sligachan Hotel, race to the summit, run around a bagpiper, and scramble back down to the hotel. The record: 44 minutes (30 minutes up, 13 minutes down, 1 minute dancing a jig up top).
Elgol: For the best view of the Cuillin, locals swear by the drive from Broadford (on the Portree-Kyleakin road) to Elgol, at the tip of a small peninsula that faces the Black Cuillin head-on. While it’s just 12 miles as the crow flies from Sligachan, give it a half-hour each way to drive into Elgol from Broadford. To get an even better Cuillin experience, take a boat excursion from Elgol into Loch Coruisk, a “sea loch” (fjord) surrounded by the Cuillin (April-Oct, various companies do the trip several times a day, fewer on Sun and off-season, generally 3 hours round-trip including 1.5 hours free time on the shore of the loch, figure £18-22 round-trip).
Perched on a rock overlooking a sea loch, this past-its-prime castle is a strange and intriguing artifact of Scotland’s antiquated, nearly extinct clan system. Dunvegan Castle is the residence of the MacLeod (pronounced “McCloud”) clan—along with the MacDonalds, one of Skye’s preeminent clans. Worth ▲▲▲ to people named MacLeod, and mildly interesting to anyone else, this is a good way to pass the time on a rainy day. The owners claim it’s the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland.
Cost and Hours: £9.50, April-mid-Oct daily 10:00-17:30, last entry 30 minutes before closing, mid-Oct-March Mon-Fri open only for groups, no photos, café, tel. 01470/521-206, www.dunvegancastle.com. Consider picking up the £2 guidebook by the late chief.
Getting There: It’s near the small town of Dunvegan in the northwestern part of the island, well-signposted from the A-850. As you approach Dunvegan on the A-850, the two flat-topped plateaus you’ll see are nicknamed “MacLeod’s Tables.”
You can also get to the castle by bus from Portree (#56, 5/day Mon-Fri, 3/day Sat, none on Sun; leave Portree no later than 12:45 to have time to tour the castle).
Background: In Gaelic, clann means “children,” and the clan system was the traditional Scottish way of passing along power—similar to England’s dukes, barons, and counts. Each clan traces its roots to an ancestral castle, like Dunvegan. The MacLeods (or, as they prefer, “MacLeod of MacLeod”) eventually fell on hard times. Having run out of male heirs in 1935, Dame Flora MacLeod of MacLeod became the 28th clan chief. Her grandson, John MacLeod of MacLeod, became the 29th chief after her death in 1976. With their castle looking rough around the edges and their leaky roof in need of fixing, John MacL of MacL pondered selling the Black Cuillin ridge of hills (which technically belonged to him) to an American tycoon for £10 million. The deal fell through, and the chief passed away in early 2007. The current clan chief is his son, Hugh Magnus MacLeod of MacLeod, a film producer who divides his time between the castle and London.
Self-Guided Tour: The interior feels a bit worn, but the MacLeods proudly display their family heritage—old photographs and portraits of former chiefs. You’ll wander through halls, the dining room, and the library, and peer down into the dungeon’s deep pit. Pick up the laminated flier in each room to discover some of the history. In the Drawing Room, look for the tattered silk remains of the Fairy Flag, a mysterious swatch with about a dozen different legends attached to it (most say that it was a gift from a fairy, and somehow it’s related to the Crusades). It’s said that the clan chief can invoke the power of the flag three times, in the clan’s darkest moments. It’s worked twice before on the battlefield—which means there’s just one use left.
The most interesting historical tidbits are in the North Room, which was built in 1360 as the original Great Hall. The family’s coat of arms (in the middle of the carpet) has a confused-looking bull and the clan motto, “Hold Fast”—recalling an incident where a MacLeod saved a man from being gored by a bull when he grabbed its horns and forced it to stop. In the case nearby, find the Dunvegan Cup and the Horn of Rory Mor. Traditionally, this horn would be filled with nearly a half-gallon of claret (Bordeaux wine), which a potential heir had to drink without stopping (or falling) to prove himself fit for the role. (The late chief, John MacLeod of MacLeod, bragged that he did it in less than two minutes...but you have to wonder if Dame Flora chug-a-lugged.) Other artifacts in the North Room include bagpipes and several relics related to Bonnie Prince Charlie (including a lock of his hair and his vest). Look for a portrait of Flora MacDonald and some items that belonged to her.
At the end of the tour, you can wander out onto the terrace (overlooking a sea loch) and, in the cellar, watch a stuffy video about the clan. Between the castle and the parking lot are five acres of enjoyable gardens to stroll through while pondering the fading clan system. You can also take a boat ride on Loch Dunvegan to visit a seal colony on a nearby island (£6, boats run mid-April-Sept only, 10:00-17:00, last trip around 16:30, 25 minutes, tel. 01470/521-500).
The flaunting of inherited wealth and influence in some English castles rubs me the wrong way. But here, seeing the rough edges of a Scottish clan chief’s castle, I had the opposite feeling: sympathy and compassion for a proud way of life that’s slipping into the sunset of history. You have to admire the way they “hold fast” to this antiquated system (in the same way the Gaelic tongue is kept on life support). Paying admission here feels more like donating to charity than padding the pockets of a wealthy family. In fact, watered-down McClouds and McDonalds from America, eager to reconnect with their Scottish roots, help keep the Scottish clan system alive.
To get a truly edge-of-the-world feeling, consider an adventure on the back lanes of the Duirinish Peninsula, west of Dunvegan. This trip is best for hardy drivers looking to explore the most remote corner of Skye and undertake a strenuous hike to a lighthouse. (The lighthouse itself is a letdown, so do this only if you believe a journey is its own reward.) Although it looks close on the map, give this trip 30 minutes each way from Dunvegan, plus 30 minutes or more for the lighthouse hike.
The owner of this private property has signs on his padlocked gate stating that you enter at your own risk—which many walkers happily do. (It’s laughably easy to walk around the unintimidating “wall.”) From here you can enjoy sheep and cliff views, but you can’t see the lighthouse itself unless you do the sturdy 30-minute hike (with a steep uphill return). After hiking around the cliff, the lighthouse springs into view, with the Outer Hebrides beyond.
Getting There: Head west from Dunvegan, following signs for Glendale. You’ll cross a moor, then twist around the Dunvegan sea loch, before heading overland and passing through rugged, desolate hamlets that seem like the setting for a BBC sitcom about backwater Britain. After passing through Glendale, carefully track Neist Point signs until you reach an end-of-the-road parking lot.
Eating: It’s efficient and fun to combine this trek with lunch or dinner at the pricey, recommended Three Chimneys Restaurant, on the road to Neist Point at Colbost (reservations essential; see here).
Opened in 1830, Talisker is a Skye institution (and the only distillery on the island). If you’ve tried only mainland whisky, island whisky is worth a dram to appreciate the differences. Island whisky is known for having a strong smoky flavor, due to the amount of peat smoke used during the roasting of the barley. The Isle of Islay has the smokiest, and Talisker workers describe theirs as “medium smoky,” which may be easier for non-connoisseurs to take. Talisker produces single-malt whisky only, so it’s a favorite with whisky purists: On summer days, this tiny distillery swarms with visitors from all over the world.
Cost and Hours: £6 for a 45-minute tour and wee dram, £20 tasting tour offered on selected weekdays—call ahead; April-Oct Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, closed Sun except in June-Aug when it’s open 11:00-17:00, last tour one hour before closing; Nov-March Mon-Fri 10:00-16:30, tours at 10:30, 12:00, 14:00, and 15:30, closed Sat-Sun, call ahead; no photos or cell phones, down a tiny road in Carbost village, tel. 01478/614-308, www.discovering-distilleries.com.
Connecting Kyleakin on Skye with Kyle of Lochalsh on the mainland, the Skye Bridge severely damaged B&B business in the towns it connects. Environmentalists worry about the bridge disrupting the habitat for otters—keep an eye out for these furry native residents. But it’s been a boon for Skye tourism—making a quick visit to the island possible without having to wait for a ferry.
The bridge, which was Europe’s most expensive toll bridge when it opened in 1995, has stirred up a remarkable amount of controversy among island-dwellers. Here’s the Skye natives’ take on things: A generation ago, Lowlanders (city folk) began selling their urban homes and buying cheap property on Skye. Natives had grown to enjoy the slow-paced lifestyle that came with living life according to the whim of the ferry, but these new transplants found their commute into civilization too frustrating by boat. They demanded a new bridge be built. Finally a deal was struck to privately fund the bridge, but the toll wasn’t established before construction began. So when the bridge opened—and the ferry line it replaced closed—locals were shocked to be charged upward of £5 per car each way to go to the mainland. A few years ago, the bridge was bought by the Scottish Executive, the fare was abolished, and the Skye natives were appeased...for now.
This postcard castle, watching over a sea loch from its island perch, is conveniently and scenically situated on the road between the Isle of Skye and Loch Ness. Famous from such films as Sean Connery’s Highlander (1986) and the James Bond movie The World Is Not Enough (1999), Eilean Donan (EYE-lan DOHN-an) might be Scotland’s most photogenic countryside castle (chances are good it’s on that Scotland calendar you bought during your trip). Though it looks ancient, the castle is actually less than a century old. The original castle on this site (dating from 800 years ago) was destroyed in battle in 1719, then rebuilt between 1912 and 1932 by the MacRae family as their residence.
Even if you’re not going inside, the castle warrants a five-minute photo stop. But the interior—with cozy rooms—is worth a peek if you have time. Walk across the bridge and into the castle complex, and make your way into the big, blocky keep. First you’ll see the claustrophobic, vaulted Billeting Room (where soldiers had their barracks), then head upstairs to the inviting Banqueting Room. Docents posted in these rooms can tell you more. Another flight of stairs takes you to the circa-1930 bedrooms. Downstairs is the cute kitchen exhibit, with mannequins preparing a meal (read the recipes posted throughout). Finally, you’ll head through a few more assorted exhibits to the exit.
Cost and Hours: £6, good £3.50 guidebook; April-Sept daily 10:00-18:00, July-Aug opens at 9:00; March and Oct daily 10:00-16:00; last entry 1 hour before closing, generally closed Nov-Feb but may be open a few times a week—call ahead, café, tel. 01599/555-202, www.eileandonancastle.com.
Getting There: It’s not actually on the Isle of Skye, but it’s quite close, in the mainland town of Dornie. Follow the A-87 about 15 minutes east of Skye Bridge, through Kyle of Lochalsh and toward Loch Ness and Inverness. The castle is on the right side of this road, just after a long bridge.
Skye’s main attraction is its natural beauty, not its villages. But of the villages, the best home base is Portree (say poor-TREE fast, comes from Port Righ, literally, “Royal Port”). This village (with 3,000 people, too small to be considered a “town”) is Skye’s largest settlement and the hub of activity and transportation.
This functional village has a small harbor and, on the hill above it, a tidy main square (from which buses fan out across the island and to the mainland). Surrounding the central square are just a few streets. Homes, shops, and B&Bs line the roads to other settlements on the island.
Portree’s helpful TI is a block off the main square. They can help you sort through bus schedules, give you maps, and book you a room for a £4 fee (July-early Sept Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-16:00; early Sept-June Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-16:00, closed Sun; Bayfield Road, just south of Bridge Road, tel. 01478/612-137 or 0845-225-5121). Public WCs are across the street and down a block, across from the hostel.
Internet Access: The TI has two terminals in the back (£1/20 minutes), and the big Aros Centre outside of town has several computers as well (£2/hour, see listing under “Sights in Portree,” later). You can get online at the library in Portree High School (free, picture ID required, Mon-Fri 9:15-17:00, Tue and Thu until 20:00, Sat 10:00-16:00, closed Sun, Viewfield Road, tel. 01478/614-823).
Laundry: The Independent Hostel, just off the main square, has a self-service launderette down below (about £4 self-service, £8 full-service, usually 11:00-21:00, last load starts at 20:00, The Green/A-855, tel. 01478/613-737).
Supermarket: A Co-op is on Bank Street (Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-19:00).
Bike Rental: Island Cycles rents bikes in the middle of town, also just off the main square (£8.50/half-day, £15/24 hours, Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun, The Green/A-855, tel. 01478/613-121).
Car Rental: M2 Motors will pick you up at your B&B or the bus station (£44-54/day, half-day available, Dunvegan Road, tel. 01478/613-344). Other places to rent a car are outside of town, on the road toward Dunvegan. The MacRae Dealership is a 10-minute walk from downtown Portree (£46-52/day, Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 9:00-12:00, no pick-up Sun, call at least a week in advance in summer, tel. 01478/612-554); farther along the same road are Jansvans (£57/day, Mon-Sat 8:00-17:30, closed Sun, tel. 01478/612-087) and Portree Coachworks (£48/day, Mon-Fri 8:30-17:30, Sat 9:00-13:00, no pick-up Sun, book in advance, tel. 01478/612-688).
Parking: As you enter town, a free parking lot is off to the right—look for the sign.
Harbor—Portree has some shops to peruse, but the best activity is to simply wander along the colorful harbor, where boat captains offer £16 1.5-hour excursions out to the sea-eagle nests and around the bay (ask at TI).
Aros Centre—This visitors center and cinema, a mile outside of town on the road to Kyleakin and Skye Bridge, overlooks the sea loch. It offers a humble but earnest exhibit run by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) about the island’s natural history and wildlife (ask if there’s still a heron nest in the trees at the far end of the parking lot). Enjoy the 20-minute movie with spectacular aerial photos of otherwise-hard-to-reach parts of Skye, and chat with the ranger. The exhibit also describes the local sea eagles. These raptors were hunted to extinction on Skye but have been reintroduced to the ecosystem from Scandinavia. A live webcam shows their nests nearby—or, if there are no active nests, a “greatest hits” video of past fledglings.
Cost and Hours: £4.75, Easter-Oct daily 9:00-17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, closed Nov-Easter, café, gift shop, Internet access, a mile south of town center on Viewfield Road, tel. 01478/613-649, www.aros.co.uk.
(area code: 01478)
$$$ Almondbank Guest House, on the road into town from Kyleakin, works well for drivers and has great views of the loch from the public areas. It has four tidy, homey rooms (two with sea views for no extra charge) and is run by friendly Effie Nicolson (Sb-£68, Db-£85, free Wi-Fi, Viewfield Road, tel. 01478/612-696, fax 01478/613-114, j.n.almondbank@btconnect.com).
$$$ Marine House, run by sweet Skye native Fiona Stephen-son, has two simple, homey rooms (one with a private bathroom down the hall) and fabulous views of the harbor (D-£62-66, Db-£66-70, cash only, 2 Beaumont Crescent, tel. 01478/611-557, stephensonfiona@yahoo.com).
$$ Braeside B&B has three comfortable rooms at the top of town, up from the Bosville Hotel (Db-£56-60, Tb-£78, £10 cheaper without breakfast, £4 discount for 2 or more nights, less off-season, cash only, steep stairs, Stormyhill, tel. 01478/612-613, www.braesideportree.co.uk, mail@braesideportree.co.uk, Judith and Philip Maughan).
$$ Bayview House has seven small and basic rooms, well-located on the main road just below the square (Db-£50-60, no breakfast, free Wi-Fi, Bridge Road, tel. 01478/613-340, www.bayviewhouse.co.uk, info@bayviewhouse.co.uk, Murdo and Alison). If there’s no answer, walk down the stairs to Bayfield Backpackers, described next.
Hostel: $ Bayfield Backpackers—run by Murdo and Alison from the Bayview House (see listing above)—is a modern-feeling, institutional, cinderblock-and-metal hostel with 24 beds in 4- to 8-bed rooms (£16-17/bunk, pay Wi-Fi, kitchen, laundry, tel. 01478/612-231, www.skyehostel.co.uk, info@skyehostel.co.uk).
$$$ Sligachan Hotel—a compound of related sleeping and eating options—is a local institution and a haven for hikers. It’s been in the Campbell family since 1913. The hotel’s 21 renovated rooms are comfortable, if a bit simple for the price, while the nearby campground and bunkhouse offer a budget alternative. The setting—surrounded by the mighty Cuillin Hills—is remarkably scenic (May-Sept: Db-£135, superior Db-£155; April and Oct: Db-£110, superior Db-£135; March: Db-£95, superior Db-£115; closed Nov-Feb, campground-£6/person, bunkhouse-£20/person in 4- to 6-bed rooms, pay Internet access in pub, free Wi-Fi for hotel guests, on the A-87 between Kyleakin and Portree in Sligachan, hotel and campground tel. 01478/650-204, bunkhouse tel. 01478/650-458, www.sligachan.co.uk, reservations@sligachan.co.uk).
Note that Portree’s few eateries tend to close early (21:00 or 22:00), and during busy times, lines begin to form soon after 19:00. Eating early works best here.
On the Waterfront: A pair of good eateries vie for your attention along Portree’s little harbor. Lower Deck feels like a salty sailor’s restaurant, decorated with the names of local ships (£5-9 lunches, £10-16 dinners, daily 12:00-14:30 & 18:00-21:00, closed Nov-March, tel. 01478/613-611). Sea Breezes, with a more contemporary flair, serves tasty cuisine with an emphasis on seafood (£7-9 lunches, £13-18 dinners, £17 two-course early-bird specials 17:00-18:00, open daily June-Aug 12:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:30, sometimes closed Sun, shorter hours generally in April-May and Sept-Oct, closed Nov-March, reserve ahead for dinner, tel. 01478/612-016).
Elsewhere in Portree: Café Arriba tries hard to offer eclectic flavors in this small Scottish town. With an ambitious menu that includes local specialties, Mexican, Italian, and more, this youthful, colorful, easygoing eatery’s hit-or-miss cuisine is worth trying. Drop in to see what’s on the blackboard menu today (£4-7 lunches, £8-15 dinners, lots of vegetarian options, daily 8:00-22:00, Quay Brae, tel. 01478/611-830).
The Café, a few steps off the main square, is a busy, popular hometown diner serving good crank-’em-out food to an appreciative local crowd. The homemade ice-cream stand in the front is a nice way to finish your meal (£8-9 lunches and burgers, £10-15 dinners, also does take-away, daily 8:30-15:30 & 17:30-21:00, Wentworth Street, tel. 01478/612-553).
The Bosville Hotel has, according to locals, the best of Portree’s many hotel restaurants. You have two choices: the inexpensive, casual bistro (£3-5 lunch sandwiches, £9-16 lunches and dinners, daily 12:00-14:00 & 17:30-20:30, until 21:30 in June-Aug), and the well-regarded, formal Chandlery Restaurant (£36 five-course “taster menu,” April-Oct nightly 18:30-20:30, Nov-March Fri-Sat only, reservations suggested). While pricey, it’s a suitable splurge (just up from the main square, 9-11 Bosville Terrace, tel. 01478/612-846). Their 19 rooms, also expensive, are worth considering (Db-£118-250, www.bosvillehotel.co.uk).
Sligachan Hotel (described earlier) has a restaurant and a microbrew pub serving up mountaineer-pleasing grub in an extremely scenic setting nestled in the Cuillin Hills (traditional dinners in restaurant, served nightly 18:00-21:00; pub grub—£7-11, served until 21:30; pub closed Oct-April, on the A-87 between Kyleakin and Portree in Sligachan, tel. 01478/650-204).
Three Chimneys Restaurant is your big-splurge-on-a-small-island meal. The high-quality Scottish cuisine, using local ingredients, earns rave reviews. Its 16 tables fill an old three-chimney croft house, with a stone-and-timbers decor that artfully melds old and new. It’s cozy, classy, and candlelit, but not stuffy. Because of its remote location—and the fact that it’s almost always booked up—reservations are absolutely essential, ideally several weeks if not months ahead, although it’s worth calling in case of last-minute cancellations (lunch: £28.50 for two courses, £37 for three courses; dinner: £60 for three courses, £85 for seven-course “showcase menu”; dinner served nightly from 18:15, last booking at 21:45, lunch mid-March-Oct Mon-Sat 12:15-13:45, no lunch Sun or Nov-mid-March, closed for 3 weeks in Jan, tel. 01470/511-258, Eddie and Shirley Spear). They also rent six swanky, pricey suites next door (Db-£295-415, less off-season, www.threechimneys.co.uk).
Getting There: It’s in the village of Colbost, about a 10- to 15-minute drive west of Dunvegan on the Duirinish Peninsula (that’s about 45 minutes each way from Portree). To get there, first head for Dunvegan, then follow signs toward Glendale. This single-track road twists you through the countryside, over a moor, and past several dozen sheep before passing through Colbost. You can combine this with a visit to the Neist Point Lighthouse (described earlier), which is at the end of the same road.
Kyleakin (kih-LAH-kin), the last town in Skye before the bridge, used to be a big tourist hub...until the bridge connecting it to the mainland made it much easier for people to get to Portree and other areas deeper in the island. Today this unassuming little village, with a ruined castle (Castle Moil), a cluster of lonesome fishing boats, and a forgotten ferry slip, still works well as a home base.
If you want to pick up information on the island before you drive all the way to Portree, stop by the tiny TI in Broadford, about 15 minutes farther up the road from Kyleakin (April-Oct Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00—until 18:00 July-Aug, Sun 10:00-16:00, closed Nov-March, maps and hiking books, in Co-op parking lot, WCs across street next to church; no phone or email in Kyleakin office, but questions answered by Visit Scotland at tel. 0845-225-5121, info@visitscotland.com).
Internet Access: If you’re desperate, Saucy Mary’s store/bar has one laptop available for visitors to rent (Main Street, tel. 01599/534-845).
Laundry: There’s none in Kyleakin, but a launderette is in Broadford, next to the Co-op supermarket (daily 6:00-20:00, shorter hours in winter).
Supermarkets: A Co-op is across the bridge in Kyle of Lochalsh (Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-18:00, Bridge Road, tel. 01599/530-190), and another is up the road in Broadford (long hours, Main Street, tel. 01471/820-420).
Car Rental: You can rent a car for the day from Skye Car Hire (about £45/day, daily 9:00-17:00, in Kyle of Lochalsh, free delivery within 5 miles, tel. 01599/534-323, www.skyecarhire.co.uk).
Taxi: For taxi services or local tours, contact Kyle Taxi (also in Kyle of Lochalsh, same phone number as Skye Car Hire, www.lochalsh.net/taxi).
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01599)
$$$ MacKinnon Country House Hotel is my favorite countryside home base on Skye. It sits quietly in the middle of five acres of gardens just off the bustling Skye Bridge. Ian and Carol Smith Tongs have lovingly restored this old 1912 country home with Edwardian antiques and 18 clan-themed rooms, an inviting overstuffed-sofa lounge, and a restaurant with garden views in nearly every direction (Sb-£50-55, Db-£110-150 depending on room size and amenities, 10 percent discount when you mention this book in 2013, about 20 percent cheaper Oct-Easter, room fridges, free Wi-Fi; 10-minute walk from Kyleakin, at the turnoff for the bridge; tel. 01599/534-180, www.mackinnonhotel.co.uk, guestbookings@mackinnonhotel.co.uk). Ian also serves a delicious dinner to guests and non-guests alike (see “Eating in Kyleakin,” later). Moss, the border collie, will try to take you for a walk.
$$$ White Heather Hotel, run by friendly and helpful Gillian and Craig Glenwright, has nine small but nicely decorated rooms with woody pine bathrooms, across from the waterfront and the castle ruins (Sb-£50, Db-£74, family rooms, cheaper for stays longer than 2 nights, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, lounges, washer and dryer available, closed late Oct-mid-March, The Harbour, tel. 01599/534-577, fax 01599/534-427, www.whiteheatherhotel.co.uk, info@whiteheatherhotel.co.uk).
$$$ Cliffe House B&B rents three rooms in a white house perched at the very edge of the water. All of the rooms, including the breakfast room, enjoy wonderful views over the strait and the bridge (Db-£65-75, cash only, closed Dec-Jan, tel. 01599/534-019, www.cliffehousebedandbreakfast.co.uk, info@cliffehousebedandbreakfast.co.uk, Ian and Mary Sikorski).
Locals like the Taste of India, just past the roundabout outside Kyleakin on the A-87 toward Broadford (£7-11 main courses, also does take-away, daily 17:00-23:00, tel. 01599/534-134). For a nice dinner, head up to the recommended MacKinnon Country House Hotel (£13-17 main courses, nightly 19:00-21:00, just outside Kyleakin at roundabout, tel. 01599/534-180). Little Kyleakin also has a few pubs; ask your B&B host for advice.
In Kyle of Lochalsh: If you can get reservations, eat fresh Scottish cuisine at the Waverly Restaurant, a tiny six-table place with locally sourced food, across the bridge from Kyleakin in Kyle of Lochalsh (£12-19 main courses, £12.75 two-course dinner special 17:30-19:00, open Fri-Wed 17:30-21:30, closed Thu, reservations essential, Main Street, across from Kyle Hotel and up the stairs, tel. 01599/534-337, Dutch chef/owner Ank).
In Broadford: Up the road in Broadford are more eateries, including the recently renovated Broadford Hotel, overlooking the bay (£9-17 main courses, Torrin Road at junction with Elgol, tel. 01471/822-204). It was here that a secret elixir—supposedly once concocted for Bonnie Prince Charlie—caught on in the 19th century. Now known as Drambuie, the popular liqueur is made with Scottish whisky, honey, and spices. With its wide variety of Drambuie drinks, the Broadford is the place to try it.