Map: Inverness & the Northern Highlands
Filled with more natural and historical mystique than people, the northern Highlands are where Scottish dreams are set. Legends of Bonnie Prince Charlie linger around crumbling castles as tunes played by pipers in kilts swirl around tourists. Explore the locks and lochs of the Caledonian Canal while the Loch Ness monster plays hide-and-seek. Hear the music of the Highlands in Inverness and the echo of muskets at Culloden, where the English drove Bonnie Prince Charlie into exile and conquered his Jacobite supporters.
I’ve focused my coverage on the handy hub of Inverness, with several day-trip options into the surrounding countryside. For Highlands sights to the south and west, see the Oban and the Southern Highlands chapter; for the Isle of Skye off Scotland’s west coast, see the previous chapter.
Though it has little in the way of sights, Inverness does have a workaday charm and is a handy spot to spend a night or two en route to other Highland destinations. One night here gives you time to take a quick tour of nearby attractions. With two nights, you can find a full day’s worth of sightseeing nearby.
Note that Loch Ness is on the way toward Oban or the Isle of Skye. If you’re heading to one of those places, it makes sense to see Loch Ness en route, rather than as a side trip from Inverness.
For a speedy itinerary through the Highlands that includes Inverness and Loch Ness, see here.
With a car, the day trips around Inverness are easy. Without a car, you can get to Inverness by train (better from Edinburgh or Pitlochry) or by bus (better from Skye, Oban, and Glencoe), then side-trip to Loch Ness, Culloden, and other nearby attractions by public bus or with a package tour.
The only city in the north of Scotland, Inverness is pleasantly situated on the River Ness at the base of a castle (now a courthouse, not a tourist attraction). Inverness’ charm is its normalcy—it’s a nice, midsize Scottish city that gives you a palatable taste of the “urban” Highlands, and is well-located for enjoying the surrounding countryside sights. Check out the bustling, pedestrian downtown or meander the picnic-friendly riverside paths—best at sunset, when the light hits the castle and couples hold hands while strolling along the water and over the many footbridges.
Inverness, with about 60,000 people, is the fastest-growing city in Scotland. Marked by its castle, Inverness clusters along the River Ness. Where the main road crosses the river at Ness Bridge, you’ll find the TI; within a few blocks (away from the river) are the train and bus stations and an appealing pedestrian shopping zone. The best B&Bs huddle atop a gentle hill behind the castle (a 15-minute mostly uphill walk, or a £5 taxi ride, from the city center).
At the centrally located TI, you can pick up activity and day-trip brochures, the self-guided Historic Trail walking-tour leaflet, and the What’s On weekly events sheet for the latest theater, music, and film showings (both free). The office also books rooms for a £4 fee and tours (July-mid-Sept Mon-Sat 9:00-18:30, Sun 9:30-18:00; mid-Sept-June Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00; Internet access, free WCs up behind TI, Castle Wynd, tel. 01463/252-401).
Festivals: In mid-June, the city fills up for the RockNess Music Festival (www.rockness.co.uk), and there’s a marathon the first week of October (www.lochnessmarathon.com); book ahead for these times.
Internet Access: You can get online at the TI (£1/20 minutes), or for free at the Neoclassical library behind the bus station, though you’ll be limited to a half-hour session (Mon-Tue and Fri 9:00-18:30, Wed 10:00-18:00, Thu 9:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun, computers shut down 15 minutes before closing, tel. 01463/236-463). Clanlan is in the middle of town, between the train station and the river (£3/hour, Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-20:00, closed Sun, 22 Baron Taylor Street, tel. 01463/241-223). New City Launderette, listed below, also has Internet access (£1/30 minutes).
Baggage Storage: The train station has lockers (£3-5/24 hours, open Mon-Sat 6:30-19:45, Sun 10:45-18:15), and the bus station offers daily baggage storage (£3-5/bag, daily 8:45-17:30).
Laundry: New City Launderette is just across the Ness Bridge from the TI (£5 for self-service, about £10 for same-day full-service, price calculated by weight, Internet access, Mon-Sat 8:00-18:00, until 20:00 Mon-Fri June-Oct, Sun 10:00-16:00 year-round, last load one hour before closing, 17 Young Street, tel. 01463/242-507). Thirty Degrees Laundry on Church Street is another option (£8 full-service only, drop off first thing in the morning for same-day service, Mon-Sat 8:30-17:30, closed Sun, 84 Church Street, tel. 01463/710-380).
Supermarket: The Co-operative is handy for picnics (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-20:00, 59 Church Street).
Walking Tour—Happy Tours offers guided historical walks in spring and summer (free; April-Sept daily at 11:00, 13:00, and 15:00; one hour, leaves from the steps of the TI, in summer just show up, arrange in advance in winter, tel. 07828/154-683, www.happy-tours.biz). They also do a free one-hour “Crime and Punishment” tour nightly at 19:00 and 20:30, and have additional tours and services available for a fee.
While thin on sights of its own, Inverness is a great home base for day trips. The biggest attraction is Loch Ness, a 20-minute drive southwest. Tickets are available at the TI, and tours depart from somewhere nearby. It’s smart to book ahead, especially in peak season.
Jacobite Tours—This outfit runs a variety of tours, from a one-hour basic boat ride to a 6.5-hour extravaganza (£12.50-39, most tours run daily). Their 3.5-hour “Sensation” tour includes a guided bus tour with live narration, a half-hour cruise of Loch Ness with recorded commentary, and an hour apiece at Urquhart Castle and the better of the two Loch Ness exhibits (£29, includes admissions to both sights, departs at 10:30 from Bank Street, near the TI, tel. 01463/233-999, www.jacobite.co.uk).
Highland Experience Tours—Choose from several daylong tours, including one that focuses on the Isle of Skye, with stops along Loch Ness and at scenic Eilean Donan Castle. You’ll get a few hours on Skye; unfortunately, it only takes you as far as the Sleat Peninsula at the island’s southern end, rather than to the more scenic Trotternish Peninsula (£44, departs from Inverness bus station at 9:30, returns at 19:30; mid-May-Sept runs daily, mid-April-mid-May and most of Oct runs several days a week, no tours late-Oct-mid-April, reservations recommended, tel. 01463/719-222, www.highlandtours.com). For more on the Isle of Skye, see the previous chapter.
More Options—Several companies host daily excursions to Culloden Battlefield, whisky distilleries, Cawdor Castle, and the nearby bay for dolphin-watching (ask at TI).
Inverness Museum and Art Gallery—This free, likeable town museum is worth poking around on a rainy day to get a taste of Inverness and the Highlands. The ground-floor exhibits on geology and archaeology peel back the layers of Highland history: Bronze and Iron ages, Picts (including some carved stones), Scots, Vikings, and Normans. Upstairs you’ll find the “social history” exhibit (everything from Scottish nationalism to hunting and fishing) and temporary art exhibits.
Cost and Hours: Free; April-Oct Tue-Sat 10:00-17:00, closed Sun-Mon; Nov-March Thu-Sat 10:00-17:00, closed Sun-Wed; cheap café, in the modern building behind the TI on the way up to the castle, tel. 01463/237-114, http://inverness.highland.museum.
Inverness Castle—Inverness’ biggest nonsight has nice views from its front lawn, but the building itself isn’t worth visiting. The statue outside depicts Flora MacDonald, who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape from the English (see here). The castle is used as a courthouse, and when trials are in session, loutish-looking men hang out here, waiting for their bewigged barristers to arrive.
These B&Bs are popular; book ahead for June through August (and during the marathon in early October), and be aware that some require a two-night minimum during busy times. The rooms are all a 10-minute walk from the train station and town center. To get to the B&Bs, either catch a taxi (£5) or walk: From the train and bus stations, go left on Academy Street. At the first stoplight (the second if you’re coming from the bus station), veer right onto Inglis Street in the pedestrian zone. Go up the Market Brae steps. At the top, turn right onto Ardconnel Street toward the B&Bs and hostels.
$$ Melness Guest House has two country-comfy rooms, a tartan-bedecked lounge, and an adorable West Highland Terrier named Rogie (Db-£75, 2-night minimum in summer, free Wi-Fi, 8 Old Edinburgh Road, tel. 01463/220-963, www.melnessie.co.uk, joy@melnessie.co.uk, Joy Joyce).
$$ Craigside Lodge B&B has five large, comfortable, cheery rooms with a tasteful modern flair mirroring the energy of the hosts. Guests share an inviting sunroom and a cozy lounge with a great city view (Sb-£40-45, Db-£70-75, prices depend on season, free Wi-Fi, just above Castle Street at 4 Gordon Terrace, tel. 01463/231-576, www.craigsideguesthouse.co.uk, enquiries@craigsideguesthouse.co.uk, Ewan and Amy).
$$ Dionard Guest House, just up Old Edinburgh Road from Ardconnel Street, has cheerful common spaces and six pleasant rooms, including two on the ground floor (Sb-£45, Db-£65-85 depending on size, 2-night minimum, no single-occupancy rate during high season, in-room fridges, free Wi-Fi, laundry service-£6-12, 39 Old Edinburgh Road, tel. 01463/233-557, www.dionardguesthouse.co.uk, enquiries@dionardguesthouse.co.uk, Brian and Doris).
$$ Ardconnel House offers a nice, large guest lounge and a warm welcome, along with six spacious and comfortable rooms (Sb-£42, Db-£75, family room-£95, family deals but no children under 10, slightly cheaper off-season or for 2 or more nights, free Wi-Fi, 21 Ardconnel Street, tel. 01463/240-455, www.ardconnel-inverness.co.uk, ardconnel@gmail.com, John and Elizabeth).
$$ Crown Hotel Guest House has six clean, bright rooms and an enjoyable breakfast room (Sb-£35, Db-£60, family room-£80-100, lounge, 19 Ardconnel Street, tel. 01463/231-135, www.crownhotel-inverness.co.uk, reservations@crownhotel-inverness.co.uk, friendly Catriona—pronounced “Katrina”—Barbour).
$$ Ryeford Guest House is a decent value, with six flowery rooms and plenty of teddy bears (Sb-£44, Db-£68, Tb-£102, family deals, vegetarian breakfast available, small twin room #1 in back has fine garden view, free Wi-Fi in lobby, above Market Brae steps, go left on Ardconnel Terrace to #21, tel. 01463/242-871, www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/ryeford, joananderson@uwclub.net, Joan and George Anderson).
The following hotels may have rooms when my recommended B&Bs are full.
$$$ The Redcliffe Hotel, which is actually in the midst of all the B&Bs described earlier, has 13 renovated, contemporary rooms, some in a seven-room townhouse annex across the street. Though a lesser value than the B&Bs, it’s fairly priced for a small hotel (Sb-£50-70, Db-£80-110, Db suite-£100-140, price depends on season, good-value family room sleeps up to 5, some castle-view rooms, pay Wi-Fi, 1 Gordon Terrace, tel. & fax 01463/232-767, www.redcliffe-hotel.co.uk, enquiry@redcliffe-hotel.co.uk). They also have a good, recommended restaurant.
$$$ Inverness Palace Hotel & Spa, a Best Western, is a fancy splurge with a pool, a gym, and 88 overpriced rooms. It’s located right on the River Ness, across from the castle (Db-£209-229, but you can almost always get a much better rate—even half-price—if you book a package deal on their website, £89 last-minute rooms, prices especially soft on weekends, river/castle view rooms about £40 more than rest, breakfast extra, elevator, free Wi-Fi, free parking, 8 Ness Walk, tel. 01463/223-243, fax 01463/236-865, www.invernesspalacehotel.co.uk, palace@miltonhotels.com).
$$$ Premier Inn Inverness Centre River Ness, along the River Ness, offers 99 predictable rooms, all with private bath. What the hotel lacks in charm and glitz it makes up for in affordable rates and location (Db-£60-120, £29 rooms not uncommon if booked online well in advance; Wi-Fi free for 30 minutes, then £3/day; 19-21 Huntley Street, tel. 01463/246-490, www.premierinn.com).
$$$ Waterside Inverness, in a nice location along the River Ness, has 28 crisp, recently updated rooms and a riverview restaurant (Sb-£75, Db-£130, superior Db-£160, Qb-£190, call or check website for deals as low as Db-£79, Ness Bank, tel. 01463/233-065, www.thewatersideinverness.co.uk, info@thewatersideinverness.co.uk).
For inexpensive dorm beds near the center and the recommended Castle Street restaurants, consider these friendly side-by-side hostels, geared toward younger travelers. They’re about a 12-minute walk from the train station.
$ Inverness Student Hotel has 57 beds in nine rooms and a cozy, inviting, laid-back lounge with a bay window overlooking the River Ness. The knowledgeable, friendly staff welcomes any traveler over 18. Dorms come in some interesting shapes, and each bunk has its own playful name (£17-18 beds in 6- to 10-bed rooms, price depends on season, breakfast-£2, free tea and coffee, cheap Internet access, free Wi-Fi, full-service laundry for £3.50, kitchen, 8 Culduthel Road, tel. 01463/236-556, www.scotlandstophostels.com, inverness@scotlandstophostels.com).
$ Bazpackers Hostel, a stone’s throw from the castle, has a quieter, more private feel and 20 beds in basic 4- to 6-bed dorms (beds-£17, D-£44, cheaper Oct-May, linens provided, reception open 24 hours, no curfew, pay Internet access, free Wi-Fi, laundry service, 4 Culduthel Road, tel. 01463/717-663, www.bazpackershostel.co.uk). They also rent a small apartment nearby (£70-80, sleeps up to 4).
You’ll find a lot of traditional Highland fare—game, fish, lamb, and beef. Reservations are smart at most of these places, especially on summer weekends.
The first three eateries line Castle Street, facing the back of the castle.
Café 1 serves up high-quality modern Scottish and international cuisine with trendy, chic bistro flair. This popular place fills up on weekends, so it‘s smart to call ahead (£10-20 main courses, lunch and early-bird dinner specials 17:30-18:45, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:00 & 17:30-21:30, Sat 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-21:30, closed Sun, 75 Castle Street, tel. 01463/226-200).
Number 27 has a straightforward, crowd-pleasing menu that offers something for everyone—salads, burgers, curries, and more. The food is surprisingly elegant for this price range (£9-12 main courses, daily 12:00-21:00, generous portions, noisy bar up front not separated from restaurant in back, 27 Castle Street, tel. 01463/241-999).
La Tortilla Asesina has Spanish tapas, including spicy king prawns (the house specialty). It‘s an appealing and vivacious dining option (£3-7 cold and hot tapas, a few make a meal, cheap tapas combo-specials; April-Sept daily 12:00-22:00; Oct-March Tue-Sun 12:00-21:00, closed Mon; 99 Castle Street, tel. 01463/709-809).
The Redcliffe Hotel‘s restaurant is conveniently located (right on one of the B&B streets) and serves up good food in three areas: a bright sunroom, a pub, or an outdoor patio (£10-14 dinners, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 17:00-21:30, Sun 12:30-14:30 & 17:30-21:30, 1 Gordon Terrace, tel. 01463/232-767). Also nearby is the Heathmount Hotel and Restaurant, which serves good food in their quiet dining room (£5-9 lunches, £11-19 dinners, Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30 & 17:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 12:30-21:30, 5-minute walk down Argyle Street to Kingsmills Road, tel. 01463/235-877).
Hootananny is a cross-cultural experience, combining a lively pub, nightly live music (Scottish traditional every night, plus rock, blues, and bar music), and Thai cuisine. It‘s got a great join-in-the-fun vibe at night (£7-8 Thai dishes, lunch deals, good for take-away, food served Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 17:00-21:30, no food on Sun but bar open 18:00-24:00, music begins every night at 21:30, 67 Church Street, tel. 01463/233-651, www.hootananny.co.uk). Upstairs is the Mad Hatter‘s nightclub (Thu-Sun only), complete with a “chill-out room.”
Rocpool Restaurant is a hit with locals and good for a splurge. Owner/chef Steven Devlin serves creative modern European food in a sleek—and often crowded—chocolate/pistachio dining room (£14 lunch specials Mon-Sat, £16 early-bird special before 18:45 Sun-Fri, £12-20 dinners, daily 12:00-14:30 & 17:45-22:00, reserve or be sorry, across Ness Bridge from TI at 1 Ness Walk, tel. 01463/717-274).
The Mustard Seed serves Scottish food with a modern twist and a view of the river in an old church. It‘s pricey but worth considering for a nice lively-at-lunch, mellow-at-dinner meal. Ask for a seat on the balcony if the weather is cooperating (£7 lunch specials, £12 early-bird specials 17:30-19:00, £11-16 meals, daily 12:00-15:00 & 17:30-22:00, reservations essential on weekends, on the corner of Bank and Fraser Streets, 16 Fraser Street, tel. 01463/220-220). If they‘re full, consider their sister restaurant, The Kitchen, serving fantastic food in an ultra-modern townhouse (same hours and prices, directly across the river at 15 Huntly Street, tel. 01463/259-119).
Rajah Indian Restaurant provides a tasty break from meat and potatoes, with vegetarian options served in a classy red-velvet, white-linen atmosphere (£9-14 meals, 10 percent less for takeout, Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 15:00-23:00, last dine-in order 30 minutes before closing, just off Church Street at 2 Post Office Avenue, tel. 01463/237-190).
Girvans serves sandwiches and tempting pastries in an easygoing atmosphere (£6-12 meals, Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-21:00, 2 Stephens Brae, at the end of the pedestrian zone nearest the train station, tel. 01463/711-900).
Leakey‘s Bookshop and Café, located in a 1649 converted church, has the best lunch deal in town. Browse through stacks of musty old books and vintage maps, warm up by the wood-burning stove, and climb the spiral staircase to the loft for hearty homemade soups, sandwiches, and sweets (£3-4 light lunches, limited menu, Mon-Sat 10:00-16:30, bookstore stays open until 17:30, closed Sun, in Greyfriar‘s Hall on Church Street, tel. 01463/239-947, Charles Leakey).
Picnic: The Marks & Spencer food hall is best (you can‘t miss it—on the main pedestrian mall, near the Market Brae steps at the corner of the big Eastgate Shopping Centre; Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Thu until 20:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, tel. 01463/224-844).
From Inverness by Train to: Pitlochry (every 1-2 hours, 1.5 hours), Stirling (every 1-2 hours, 2.75-3 hours, some transfer in Perth), Kyle of Lochalsh near Isle of Skye (4/day, 2.5 hours), Edinburgh (every 1-2 hours, 3.5-4 hours, some with change in Perth or Stirling), Glasgow (11/day, 3 hours, 4 direct, the rest change in Perth). ScotRail does a great sleeper service to London (generally £140-190 for first class/private compartment or £100-150 for standard class/shared compartment with breakfast, not available Sat night, www.firstscotrail.com). Consider dropping your car in Inverness and riding to London by train. Train info: tel. 0845-748-4950.
By Bus: To reach most destinations in western Scotland, you‘ll first head for Fort William (5/day, 2 hours). For connections onward to Oban (figure 4 hours total) or Glencoe (3 hours total), see the “Fort William Connections” on here. To reach Portree on the Isle of Skye, you can either take the direct bus (3-4/day, 3.25 hours), or transfer in Fort William. These buses are run by Scottish Citylink; for schedules, see www.citylink.co.uk. You can buy tickets in advance by calling Citylink at tel. 0871-266-3333 or stopping by the Inverness bus station (daily 8:45-17:30, £0.50 extra for credit cards, daily baggage storage-£3-5/bag, 2 blocks from train station on Margaret Street, tel. 01463/233-371). For bus travel to England, check National Express (www.nationalexpress.com) or Megabus (http://uk.megabus.com).
Inverness to Edinburgh (150 miles, 3 hours minimum): Leaving Inverness, follow signs to the A-9 (south, toward Perth). If you haven‘t seen the Culloden Battlefield yet (described later), it‘s an easy detour: Just as you leave Inverness, head four miles east off the A-9 on the B-9006. Back on the A-9, it‘s a wonderfully speedy, scenic highway (A-9, M-90, A-90) all the way to Edinburgh. If you have time, consider stopping en route in Pitlochry (just off the A-9; see the Between Inverness and Edinburgh chapter).
To Oban, Glencoe, or Isle of Skye: See the “Route Tips for Drivers” at the end of the Oban and the Southern Highlands chapter.
Inverness puts you in the heart of the Highlands, within easy striking distance of a gaggle of famous and worthwhile sights: Squint across Loch Ness looking for Nessie—or, if you‘re a skeptic, just appreciate the majesty of Britain‘s largest body of water by volume. Commune with the Scottish soul at the historic Culloden Battlefield, where Scottish, English, and world history reached a turning point. Ponder three mysterious Neolithic cairns, which remind visitors that Scotland‘s history goes back even before Braveheart. And enjoy a homey country castle at Cawdor.
I‘ll admit it: I had my zoom lens out and my eyes on the water. The local tourist industry thrives on the legend of the Loch Ness Monster. It‘s a thrilling thought, and there have been several seemingly reliable “sightings” (by monks, police officers, and sonar images). But even if you ignore the monster stories, the loch is impressive: 23 miles long, less than a mile wide, the third-deepest in Europe (754 feet), and containing more water than in all the freshwater bodies of England and Wales combined.
Getting There: The Loch Ness sights are a quick drive southwest of Inverness. Various buses go from Inverness to Urquhart Castle in about a half-hour (8/day, fewer on Sun, various companies, ask at Inverness bus station or TI).
In July of 1933, a couple swore that they saw a giant sea monster shimmy across the road in front of their car by Loch Ness. Within days, ancient legends about giant monsters in the lake (dating as far back as the sixth century) were revived—and suddenly everyone was spotting “Nessie” poke its head above the waters of Loch Ness. Further sightings and photographic “evidence” have bolstered the claim that there‘s something mysterious living in this unthinkably deep and murky lake. (Most sightings take place in the deepest part of the loch, near Urquhart Castle.) Most witnesses describe a waterbound dinosaur (resembling the real, but extinct, plesiosaur). Others cling to the slightly more plausible theory of a gigantic eel. And skeptics figure the sightings can be explained by a combination of reflections, boat wakes, and mass hysteria. The most famous photo of the beast (dubbed the “Surgeon‘s Photo”) was later discredited—the “monster‘s” head was actually attached to a toy submarine. But that hasn‘t stopped various cryptozoologists from seeking photographic, sonar, and other proof.
And that suits the thriving local tourist industry just fine. The Nessie commercialization is so tacky that there are two different monster exhibits within 100 yards of each other, both in the town of Drumnadrochit. Each has a tour-bus parking lot and more square footage devoted to their kitschy shops than to the exhibits. The overpriced exhibitions are actually quite interesting—even though they‘re tourist traps, they‘ll appease that small part of you that knows the real reason you wanted to see Loch Ness.
▲Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition—This exhibit—the better option of the two—is headed by a marine biologist who has spent many years researching lake ecology and scientific phenomena. With a 30-minute series of video bits and special effects, this exhibit explains the geological and historical environment that bred the monster story, as well as the various searches that have been conducted. Refreshingly, it retains an air of healthy skepticism instead of breathless monster-chasing. It also has some artifacts related to the search, such as a hippo-foot ashtray used to fake monster footprints and the Viperfish—a harpoon-equipped submarine used in a 1969 Nessie search.
Cost and Hours: £7, daily June 9:00-17:30, July-Aug 9:00-18:00, Sept-Oct 9:30-17:00, Nov-Easter 10:00-15:30, Easter-May 9:30-17:00, in the big stone mansion right on the main road to Inverness, tel. 01456/450-573, www.lochness.com.
Nessieland Castle Monster Centre—The other exhibit (up a side road closer to the town center, affiliated with a hotel) is less serious. It‘s basically a tacky high-school-quality photo report and a 30-minute We Believe in the Loch Ness Monster movie, which features credible-sounding locals explaining what they saw and a review of modern Nessie searches. (The most convincing reason for locals to believe: Look at the hordes of tourists around you.) It also has small exhibits on the area‘s history and on other “monsters” and hoaxes around the world.
Cost and Hours: £5, daily May-Sept 9:00-21:00, Oct-April 9:00-17:00, tel. 01456/450-342, www.loch-ness-monster-nessieland.com.
The ruins at Urquhart (UR-kurt), just up the loch from the Nessie exhibits, are gloriously situated with a view of virtually the entire lake. Its visitors center has a tiny museum with interesting castle artifacts and a good eight-minute film, but the castle itself is a relatively empty shell. Its previous owners blew it up to keep the Jacobites from taking it. As you walk toward the ruins, take a close look at the trebuchet (a working replica of one of the most destructive weapons of English King Edward I), and ponder how this giant slingshot helped Edward grab almost every castle in the country away from the native Scots.
Cost and Hours: £7.40, guidebook-£4, daily April-Sept 9:30-18:00, Oct 9:30-17:00, Nov-March 9:30-16:30, last entry 45 minutes before closing, café, tel. 01456/450-551, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk.
Jacobite troops under Bonnie Prince Charlie were defeated at Culloden (kuh-LAW-dehn) by supporters of the Hanover dynasty in 1746. This last major land battle fought on British soil spelled the end of Jacobite resistance and the beginning of the clan chiefs‘ fall from power. Wandering the desolate, solemn battlefield, you sense that something terrible occurred here. Locals still bring white roses and speak of “the ‘45” (as Bonnie Prince Charlie‘s entire campaign is called) as if it just happened. The battlefield at Culloden and its high-tech visitors center together are worth ▲▲▲.
Cost and Hours: £10, daily April-Sept 9:00-18:00, Oct 9:00-17:00, Nov-Dec and Feb-March 10:00-16:00, closed Jan.
Information: £5 guidebook, café, tel. 0844-493-2159, www.nts.org.uk/culloden.
Tours: Tours with live guides are included with your admission. Check for a schedule—there are generally 3-4/day, focusing on various aspects of the battle. Audioguides are free, with good information tied by GPS to important sites on the battlefield (pick up before 17:00 at the end of the indoor exhibit and return by 17:50; earlier off-season).
Getting There: It‘s a 15-minute drive east of Inverness. Follow signs to Aberdeen, then Culloden Moor, and the B-9006 takes you right there (well-signed on the right-hand side). Parking is £2. Public buses leave from Inverness‘ Queensgate Street and drop you off in front of the entrance (bus #3, roughly hourly, 30 minutes, confirm that bus is going all the way to the battlefield).
Length of This Tour: Allow 2-2.5 hours.
The Battle of Culloden (April 16, 1746) marks the end of the power of the Scottish Highland clans and the start of years of repression of Scottish culture by the English. It was the culmination of a year‘s worth of battles, known collectively as “the ‘45.” At the center of it all was the charismatic, enigmatic Bonnie Prince Charlie (1720-1788).
Charles Edward Stuart, from his first breath, was raised with a single purpose—to restore his family to the British throne. His grandfather was King James II, deposed in 1688 by Parliament for his tyranny and pro-Catholic bias. In 1745, young Charlie crossed the Channel from exile in France to retake the throne for the Stuarts. He landed on the west coast of Scotland and rallied support for the “Jacobite” cause (from the Latin for “James”). Though Charles was not Scottish-born, he was the rightful heir directly down the line from Mary, Queen of Scots—and so many Scots joined the Stuart family‘s rebellion out of resentment at being ruled by a foreign king (English royalty of German descent).
Bagpipes droned, and “Bonnie” (beautiful) Charlie led an army of 2,000 tartan-wearing, Gaelic-speaking Highlanders across Scotland, seizing Edinburgh. They picked up other supporters of the Stuarts from the Lowlands and from England. Now 6,000 strong, they marched south toward London, and King George II made plans to flee the country. But anticipated support for the Jacobites failed to materialize in the numbers they were hoping for (both in England and from France). The Jacobites had so far been victorious in their battles against the Hanoverian government forces, but the odds now turned against them. Charles retreated to the Scottish Highlands, where many of his men knew the terrain and might gain an advantage when outnumbered. The English government troops followed closely on his heels.
Against the advice of his best military strategist, Charles‘ army faced the Hanoverian forces at Culloden Moor on flat, barren terrain that was unsuited to the Highlanders‘ guerrilla tactics. The Scots—many of them brandishing only broadswords and spears—were mowed down by English cannons and horsemen. In less than an hour, the government forces routed the Jacobite army, but that was just the start. They spent the next weeks methodically hunting down ringleaders and sympathizers (and many others in the Highlands who had nothing to do with the battle), ruthlessly killing, imprisoning, and banishing thousands.
Charles fled with a £30,000 price on his head. He escaped to the Isle of Skye, hidden by a woman named Flora MacDonald (her grave is on the Isle of Skye, and her statue is outside Inverness Castle). Flora dressed Charles in women‘s clothes and passed him off as her maid. Later, Flora was arrested and thrown in the Tower of London before being released and treated like a celebrity.
Charles escaped to France. He spent the rest of his life wandering Europe trying to drum up support to retake the throne. He drifted through short-lived romantic affairs and alcohol, and died in obscurity, without an heir, in Rome.
Though usually depicted as a battle of the Scottish versus the English, in truth Culloden was a civil war between two opposing dynasties: Stuart (Charlie) and Hanover (George). In fact, about one-fifth of the government‘s troops were Scottish, and several redcoat deserters fought along with the Jacobites. However, as the history has faded into lore, the battle has come to be remembered as a Scottish-versus-English standoff—or, in the parlance of the Scots, the Highlanders versus the Strangers.
The Battle of Culloden was the end of 60 years of Jacobite rebellions, the last major battle fought on British soil, and the final stand of the Highlanders. From then on, clan chiefs were deposed; kilts, tartans, and bagpipes became illegal paraphernalia; and farmers were cleared off their ancestral land, replaced by more-profitable sheep. Scottish culture would never recover from the events of the campaign called “the ‘45.”
Culloden‘s visitors center, opened in 2008, is a state-of-the-art £10 million facility. The ribbon was cut by two young local men, each descended from soldiers who fought in the battle (one from either side). On the way up to the door, look under your feet at the memorial stones for fallen soldiers and clans, mostly purchased by their American and Canadian descendants. Your tour takes you through two sections: the exhibit and the actual battlefield.
The initial part of the exhibit provides you with some background. As you pass the ticket desk, note the family tree of Bonnie Prince Charlie (“Prince Charles Edward”) and George II, who were essentially distant cousins. Next you‘ll come across the first of the exhibit‘s shadowy-figure touchscreens, which connect you with historical figures who give you details from both the Hanoverian and Jacobite perspectives. A map here shows the other power struggles happening in and around Europe, putting this fight for political control of Britain in a wider context. This battle was no small regional skirmish, but rather a key part of a larger struggle between Britain and its neighbors, primarily France, for control over trade and colonial power. In the display case are medals from the early 1700s, made by both sides as propaganda.
Your path through this building is cleverly designed to echo the course of the Jacobite army. Your short march gets under way as Charlie sails from France to Scotland, then finagles the support of Highland clan chiefs. As he heads south with his army to take London, you, too, are walking south. Along the way, maps show the movement of troops, and wall panels cover the build-up to the attack, as seen from both sides. Note the clever division of information: To the left and in red is the story of the “government” (a.k.a. Hanoverians/Whigs/English, led by the Duke of Cumberland); to the right, in blue, is the Jacobites‘ perspective (Prince Charlie and his Highlander/French supporters).
But you, like Charlie, don‘t make it to London—in the dark room at the end, you can hear Jacobite commanders arguing over whether to retreat back to Scotland. Pessimistic about their chances of receiving more French support, they decide to U-turn, and so do you. Heading back up north, you‘ll get some insight into some of the strategizing that went on behind the scenes.
By the time you reach the end of the hall, it‘s the night before the battle. Round another bend into a dark passage, and listen to the voices of the anxious troops. While the English slept soundly in their tents (recovering from celebrating the Duke‘s 25th birthday), the scrappy and exhausted Jacobite Highlanders struggled through the night to reach the battlefield (abandoning their plan of a surprise attack at Nairn and instead retreating back toward Inverness).
At last the two sides meet. As you wait outside the theater for the next showing, study the chart depicting how the forces were arranged on the battlefield. Once inside the theater, you‘ll soon be surrounded by the views and sounds of a windswept moor. An impressive four-minute 360° movie projects the reenacted battle with you right in the center of the action (the violence is realistic; young kids should probably sit this one out). If it hasn‘t hit you already, the movie drives home how truly outmatched the Jacobites were, and what a hopeless and tragic day it was for them.
Leave the movie, then enter the last room. Here you‘ll find period weapons, including ammunition and artifacts found on the battlefield, as well as historical depictions of the battle. You‘ll also find a section describing the detective work required to piece together the story from historical evidence. On the far end is a huge map, with narration explaining the combat you‘ve just experienced while giving you a bird‘s-eye view of the field through which you‘re about to roam.
Collect your free audioguide and go outside. From the back wall of the visitors center, survey the battlefield. In the foreground is a cottage used as a makeshift hospital during the conflict (it‘s decorated as it would have been then). To the east (south of the River Nairn) is the site that Lord George Murray originally chose for the action. In the end, he failed to convince Prince Charlie of its superiority, and the battle was held here—with disastrous consequences. Although not far from Culloden, the River Nairn site was miles away tactically, and things might have turned out differently for the Jacobites had the battle taken place there instead.
Head left, down to the battlefield. Your GPS guide knows where you are, and the attendant will give you directions on where to start. As you walk along the path, stop each time you hear the “ping” sound (if you keep going, you‘ll confuse the satellite). The basic audioguide has 10 stops—including the Jacobite front line, the Hanoverian front line, and more—and takes a minimum of 30 minutes, which is enough for most people. At the third stop, you have the option of detouring along a larger loop (6 extra stops—figure another 30 minutes minimum) before rejoining the basic route. Each stop has additional information on everything from the Brown Bess musket to who was standing on what front line—how long this part of the tour takes depends on how much you want to hear. Notice how uneven and boggy the ground is in parts, and imagine trying to run across this hummocky terrain with all your gear, toward almost-certain death.
As you pass by the mass graves, marked by small headstones, realize that entire clans fought, died, and were buried together. (The fallen were identified by the clan badge on their caps.) The Mackintosh grave alone was 77 yards long.
When you‘ve finished your walking tour, re-enter the hall, return your audioguide, then catch the last part of the exhibit, which covers the aftermath of the battle. As you leave the building, hang a left to see the wall of protruding bricks, each representing a soldier who died. The handful of Hanoverian casualties are on the left (about 50); the rest of the long wall‘s raised bricks represent the multitude of dead Jacobites (about 1,500).
If you‘re having trouble grasping the significance of this battle, play a game of “What if?” If Bonnie Prince Charlie had persevered on this campaign and taken the throne, he likely wouldn‘t have plunged Britain into the Seven Years‘ War with France (his ally). And increased taxes on either side of that war led directly to the French and American revolutions. So if the Jacobites had won...the American colonies might still be part of the British Empire today.
Scotland is littered with reminders of prehistoric peoples—especially along the coast of the Moray Firth—but the Clava Cairns are among the best-preserved, most interesting, and easiest to reach. You‘ll find them nestled in the spooky countryside just beyond Culloden Battlefield. These “Balnauran of Clava” are Neolithic burial chambers dating from 3,000 to 4,000 years ago. Although they appear to be just some giant piles of rocks in a sparsely forested clearing, they warrant a closer look to appreciate the prehistoric logic behind them. (The site is well-explained by informative plaques.) There are three structures: a central “ring cairn” with an open space in the center but no access to it, flanked by two “passage cairns,” which were once covered. The entrance shaft in each passage cairn lines up with the setting sun at the winter solstice. Each cairn is surrounded by a stone circle, injecting this site with even more mystery.
Cost and Hours: Free, always open.
Getting There: Just after passing Culloden Battlefield on the B-9006 (coming from Inverness), signs on the right point to Clava Cairns. Follow this twisty road to the free parking lot by the stones. Skip it if you don‘t have a car.
Homey and intimate, this castle is still the residence of the Dowager (read: widow) Countess of Cawdor, a local aristocratic branch of the Campbell family. The castle‘s claim to fame is its connection to Shakespeare‘s Macbeth, in which the three witches correctly predict that the protagonist will be granted the title “Thane of Cawdor.” The castle is not used as a setting in the play—which takes place in Inverness, 300 years before this castle was built—but Shakespeare‘s dozen or so references to “Cawdor” are enough for the marketing machine to kick in. Today, virtually nothing tangibly ties Cawdor to the Bard or to the real-life Macbeth. But even if you ignore the Shakespeare lore, the castle is worth a visit.
Cost and Hours: £9.50, good £3 guidebook explains the family and the rooms, May-Sept daily 10:00-17:30, last entry at 17:00, gardens open until 18:00, closed Oct-April, tel. 01667/404-401, www.cawdorcastle.com.
Getting There: It‘s on the B-9090, just off the A-96, about 15 miles east of Inverness (6 miles beyond Culloden and the Clava Cairns). Without a car, you can either take a guided tour from Inverness (ask at the TI), or hop on public bus #3—the same ones that go to Culloden—from central Inverness (roughly hourly, 55 minutes, get on at Queensgate stop, check with driver that bus goes all the way to Cawdor, 15-minute walk from Cawdor Church bus stop to castle, last bus back to Inverness around 17:00).
Visiting the Castle: The chatty, friendly docents (including Jean at the front desk, who can say “welcome” and “mind your head” in 60 different languages) give the castle an air of intimacy—most are residents of the neighboring village of Cawdor and act as though they‘re old friends with the Dowager Countess (many probably are). Entertaining posted explanations—written by the countess‘ late husband, the sixth Earl of Cawdor—bring the castle to life and make you wish you‘d known the old chap. While many of today‘s castles are still residences for the aristocracy, Cawdor feels even more lived-in than the norm—you can imagine the Dowager Countess stretching out in front of the fireplace with a good book. Notice her geraniums in every room.
Stops on the tour include a tapestry-laden bedroom and a “tartan passage” speckled with modern paintings. In another bedroom (just before the stairs back down) is a tiny pencil sketch by Salvador Dalí. Inside the base of the tower, near the end of the tour, is the castle‘s proud symbol: a holly tree dating from 1372. According to the beloved legend, a donkey leaned against this tree to mark the spot where the castle was to be built—which it was, around the tree. (The tree is no longer alive, but its withered trunk is still propped up in the same position. No word on the donkey.)
The gardens, included with the ticket, are also worth exploring, with some 18th-century linden trees, a hedge maze (not open to the public), and several surprising species (including sequoia and redwood). In May and June, the laburnum arbors drip with yellow blossoms.
Nearby: The close but remote-feeling village of Cawdor—with a few houses, a village shop, and a tavern—is also worth a look if you‘ve got time to kill.