acclimatization 5, 39, 142, 144, 157–8, 156–62, 246, 265, 274–5
acetazolamide (Diamox) 144, 158–62
acrophobia 165–6
acute mountain sickness (AMS) See altitude illness
air travel 43, 83, 158, 186, 244, 252–3
alcohol 79, 127, 147, 157–8, 166, 349
alpine chough 275
alpine preservation 131–2
altitude illness 137, 140, 142, 144, 148, 152, 156–62, 172
ambrosia 278
ammonite fossils 50, 53, 198, 201, 302
animism 12, 42, 44, 100, 102, 104, 202, 345, 370, 391
Annapurna 210
Annapurna III glacier 238
anti-leech oil 70, 92, 135, 156
Api–Nampaa Conservation Area 60–61
appendicitis 149
Arniko Highway 297, 315, 345, 358, 362, 365
ascent rate 176
Ashoka 305
Asian Brown Cloud (Atmospheric Brown Cloud) 32, 37
Asian “Dust” 37
asthma 152
Augleswori Peak 342–4
avalanches 130, 141, 196, 211, 215–6, 274, 384
Avalokiteshwara 201
backcountry treks 373–86
Bagmati River 37, 88, 103, 304, 358
bandh (strike or shut-down) 89, 304, 359
bar-headed geese (Anser indicus) 275
Bardia National Park 56, 60–61
bargaining 110–1
bathing 105, 109, 201, 302, 326
batteries 70, 72, 74–5, 132, 136, 246
Baudhnath Stupa (World Heritage Site) 88, 92, 95, 98, 117, 201, 285, 302
Besisahar 14, 204, 220–3, 241, 242, 353, 354, 358
beyul (hidden valley) 294, 304
Bhaai Tikaa 102
Bhairab Kund Lake 46–47, 297, 314–5
Bhaktapur (BhatgAAU) 16, 88, 95–96, 297, 358
Bhandar 40, 84, 244, 246–9, 268, 387, 390
Bhattarai, Baburam 366–7
Bhimsen Tower 87–8
Bihar 53
Bikram Samvat (calendar) 57, 96, 104
biodegradable soap 70, 72, 92, 128, 135
blue sheep (bharal) 39, 53, 197, 240–1, 243, 365, 370
Bon 200, 206, 237, 261, 322, 341, 369
Boustead, Robin 45
Brahma Kumari Rajyoga Center 88, 94
Brahmaputra River 49
brasswork 379
bronchitis 151–2
Buddha (Siddhartha Gautama) 58, 94, 100–1, 294, 362, 365
Buddha Purnima (Buddha Jayanti or Saga Dawa) 285
camping 23, 25–6, 28, 63, 67, 74, 115, 122, 125–6, 131, 262
cannabis 43, 103, 119, 168, 371–2
carnet de passage 58
caste 14, 43–44, 81, 100–2, 104, 106, 108–9, 111, 117, 199, 335, 339, 349, 375–6
caves 96, 195, 203, 206, 235, 238, 309–10, 314, 328, 340, 352, 373, 384–5, 391
Center for Responsible Travel, The 114
Chand, Dashratha 93
Changu Narayan (World Heritage Site) 95
chataamari 96
check posts 180, 191, 230–1, 248, 255, 285, 288, 305, 307, 311, 377, 383, 394
Chepang 345–53
Chepang Museum and Development Center 351
chest and heart conditions 139
Chhetri 14, 43, 98, 104, 254, 345, 349, 376
chilaune (Schima wallichii) 55, 219, 359
chilim (clay pipes) 377
China 17, 37, 58, 90, 95, 104, 232, 228, 249, 331–2, 345, 370
Chitwan National Park (World Heritage Site, Natural) 53, 55–6, 345, 352
Cho La 36, 261, 270, 273–4, 276
Christianity 14, 100, 228, 322–4, 345, 352
civil war 15, 119, 341–2, 365–7, 369, 371–2, 375
CIWEC Clinic 88, 138, 148, 169
climate 12, 35, 43, 55, 130, 195, 255, 269
clothing 64–66, 105, 107, 116, 179
Community Action Nepal (CAN) 80, 135, 267, 274
constipation 148–9
contact lenses 65, 70, 73, 144, 152–3
cultural dos and don’ts 121
Cultural Thakali Museum 195
Cyclospora 148
DAAphe Dhunga 340
Dahal, Pushpa Kamal (a.k.a. Prachanda) 15, 366–7
Dairy Development Corporation (DDC) 325
Dalai Lama 285
DasAAI 101–3
deforestation 16, 131, 288, 367
dental problems 139, 143, 153, 169, 256
dengue fever 151
departure tax 59
depression 167–8
descent rate 176
Dexamethasone 144, 158–9, 161–2
DhangaDi 58
Dhaulagiri Icefall 196
Dhumbra Lake 198
diabetes 140
diapers 128
diarrhea 128, 137, 141, 143–4, 147–9, 151
distillery 197
Diwali See Tihaar
Dixit, Kanak Mani 227
dohori restaurants 96
Dolpo 21, 35–36, 50, 59, 191, 206, 237, 370–1, 373
Dona Lake 229–30
Doramba Massacre 341–2
Dukpa Chesyi 285
Durbar Square (World Heritage Site) 87–8, 92, 95–6
Durga (Kali) 102
Dzong 203–6
Dzonglha 271
ecology 9, 39, 44, 53, 69, 132–3, 182, 195, 288
eco-trekking suggestions 386–94
eightfold way 101
embassies 8, 57, 60, 72, 85, 87, 92, 116, 135–6, 169–71, 365
emergencies 25, 66, 83, 168–72, 180
emotional problems 166–8
Everest Marathon 267
Everest Base Camp 47, 156–7, 261, 264, 266–7, 270, 272, 277
eye problems 65, 153–4, 162, 165
festivals 96, 101–3, 106, 199, 206, 258–9, 261, 281, 285, 300, 315, 378, 384, 393
food preparation and handling 146–7
footwear 32, 63–64, 153–4, 179
foreign aid 8, 16–18, 24, 113–4
frostbite 63–64, 66, 68, 135, 163–4, 220, 241–2, 270
funerals 322
gaajal 101
Gaddachauki 58
gamma-globulin (immune globulin) 138, 155
Gamow™ Bag (altitude chamber) 26, 144, 159–62, 169, 274, 287
Gampopa 238
Gangetic plain 8, 12, 36–37, 53
Ganja La 36, 41, 243, 281–2, 290, 294–5, 311, 314
gastrointestinal and abdominal distress 147–50
Gauri-Shankar Conservation Area 60, 386
Ghandruk 46, 132, 185–6, 188, 190–1, 211–4, 217–9, 251
ghoral (Nemorhaedus goral) 53, 217, 274, 278, 296
Global Positioning System (GPS) 70, 176, 267, 293, 334
Gorkhanth 87
Gottegang Kharka 334
Great Himalayan Trail, The 45
The Guerilla Trek 46–47, 365–3
guides 21–26, 28–29, 36, 39, 77–81, 166
Gurkhas 12, 16, 81, 188, 211–2, 250, 254, 349, 353
Guru Rimpoche See Padmasambava
Gurung Heritage Trail (GHT) 353–9
gynecologic issues 150
Hanuman Dhoka (World Heritage Site) 95, 102
heat injury 164–5
hemorrhoids 149
Hillary, Edmund 45, 246, 249, 270, 272
high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) 160–2
high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) 152, 158, 160–1
high-altitude retinal hemorrhage (HARH) 160, 162
Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) 60, 92, 131, 169–70, 236, 246, 265
Hinduism 12, 14, 40–44, 98, 100–4, 106, 108, 112, 199, 302, 343
homestay 23, 124–5, 234, 245, 255, 266, 282, 316, 345, 347, 373, 388, 391–2
hot springs 192, 212, 218, 226, 227, 283–4, 296, 315, 326, 331, 333, 336, 366–7, 392
Imja Glacier 266
Immigration Department 21, 58–59, 93, 187
insurance 26, 82, 141–2, 160, 170
International Porter Protection Group (IPPG) 26, 80, 82, 135, 157, 159, 169, 246, 267, 274
internet 25, 86–87, 136, 191, 232, 242, 252, 256, 262, 264, 267
Island Peak 265–6
jaDibuTi (medicinal herbs) 234, 341, 381, 394
jana andolan “people’s movement” (for democracy) 15, 366–7
Japanese encephalitis 138, 141
Jiri 20, 34, 40, 47, 52, 84, 169, 244–8, 252–3, 268, 388–91
Junbesi 249–50, 254, 268, 389, 391
juTho 109
Kailingchok 340
Kala Pattar 33, 61, 142, 157, 261, 264–5, 269, 272, 277, 386
Kanchan Kalan 55
Kastmandap 87
Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP) 26, 29, 63, 78, 88, 92, 94, 135–136, 156
Khaling Rai 391
Khangsar 238–41
Khaptad Baba 392–3
Khaptad National Park 43, 60, 96, 373, 392–4
Khopra Ridge 191
Khudi 185, 220, 222–26, 353, 357, 359
Kopan Monastery 88, 94–95, 258
Kosi Barrage 53
Kosi Tappu Wildlife Reserve 55–56, 60
Kotho (Kyupar) 231
Kyangjin Ri (Brana Chumbo) 290, 292
Lama Gulu 262
Lama Sangwa Dorje 263–4
lammergeier (bearded vulture) 309
Langsisa 292–4
language 12, 44, 105, 125, 179–80, 211, 316, 402–8
Laurebina La 36, 41, 296, 298, 301, 303, 311
leeches 32, 36, 70, 154–5, 215, 225, 226, 333, 353
Lhotse 40, 50–51, 255, 260, 265–6, 275, 382, 386
Lili Bhir 227
lingam 300, 342, 358, 360, 394
lizards 194–5
Losar (Tibetan New Year) 96, 285
Lungdhe 277
maadal (barrel-drum) 106
Mahabharat hills 49–53, 214, 338, 343
Mahayana 102
Makalu Base Camp 381–6
malaria 13, 16, 70, 140–1, 144, 151
Malla Stones 378
Manaslu 21, 36, 39, 51, 59–62, 230–1, 275, 300, 355
Mani-rimdu 200, 258–9, 261, 247
marmot 243
Maoists 7, 15, 119–21, 325, 341–2, 351, 365–73
marijuana and hashish 103, 118–9, 168, 372
Marpha Agricultural Farm 199
medical kit 142–5
meditation 21, 88, 94–95, 101, 106, 141, 206, 233, 328, 394
meningitis 138
migrant workers 120
mobile phone 32, 75, 170, 246, 321, 323, 331
monarchy 8, 13–16, 95, 102, 121
money 85–86
Mongolian Plateau 37
monosodium glutamate (MSG) 76, 317, 404–5
mountaineering 32–33, 136, 257, 270
Muktinath Ring Road 205
Muluki Ain 101
museums 200, 214, 256, 351, 391
Nache Village 229–30
Nanga Parbhat 275
Nangkartshang 265
Narayanhiti National Museum 63, 88, 93–5, 138
National Museum (Rastriya Sangrahalaya) 88, 95
National Stadium (Dashratha Rangsaalaa) 93
National Trust for Nature Conservation 61, 132
Nayaa Bas Parak (New Bus Park) 84, 88, 282, 318, 394
Nepal International Clinic (NIC) 88, 138, 169
Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) 33, 170
Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) 7, 32, 36, 59, 93, 184, 187, 337, 386
Ngozumpa Glacier 260, 272, 274–275
Nyingmapa 201, 262, 286, 310, 361
Old Bus Park 84, 88, 93, 102, 244, 246, 304, 339, 388
oral rehydration solution (jeevan jal) 141, 144, 147, 164
Padmasambava (Guru Rimpoche) 96, 195, 235, 294, 308–9, 311, 314, 334, 341, 384
Pangkongma La 247, 251, 278, 382
Parvati Kund 325
Pasang, Tupi 29
Pashupatinath (World Heritage Site) 95, 103, 305
Pati Bhanjyang 297, 303–4, 306, 312–3
Pharping 96
Pheriche 157, 159, 160, 169, 246, 261, 264–8, 270, 274, 278
photography 30, 47, 75–76, 118, 264
pneumonia 151–152
Porters Clothing Bank 82, 92, 135, 253
Prithvi Narayan Shah 13, 16, 324, 351
Pun, Mahabir 191
psychological problems 166–8
The Pyramid Laboratory 267, 279
raato maato chhiplo baaTo (“red mud, slippery trail”) 312, 383
Ramayana 239
Ramechap Economic Development Forum 337, 386
refugees 14, 98, 198, 232–3, 283, 285, 296, 336, 370
Republic Day (GaNatantra Divash) 96
respiratory infections 69, 142–3, 147, 151–2, 161
rickshaw 89
Rimche 282, 284, 287, 295–6, 318–9
ritual healing 167
Roberts, James (Jimmy) 24, 210, 391
Royle’s Pika (mouse hare) 278
rudaaksha (Eleocarpus ganitrus) 101
Rupandehi District 94
sadhus 112
Sakyapa 202
Salleri 40
Salpa Bhanjyang 279
salt trade 196–7, 199, 220, 227–9
Sanskrit 12, 104–5, 117, 269, 402
Sarangkot 186–187
Sedua 381–4
sel roti 103
shakti 102
ShakTikhor 348–52
Shakyamuni See Buddha
shaman 12, 42, 104, 145, 167, 322, 347
shawm 106
Sher Gomba 235–237
Shiva 95, 100–1, 103, 106, 248, 289, 298, 300–2, 315, 325, 339–40, 342, 344, 355, 359–60, 385–6
Shivapuri National Park 60, 304–5, 358–9
Shyange 224–7
signaling and evacuation 171–2
Sing Gomba (Chandan Bari) 297–300, 303
Siraichuli Peak 346, 348–9, 351
Siri Kharka 240–1
Sirung 225
Sita 394
skirts 32, 64–65, 105, 107, 109, 121, 134
Skype 86
slaty-bellied tesia 381
sleeping gear 66–67
snow fleas 275
snow leopard 12, 39, 53, 197, 240, 242, 243, 387
South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) 58–59, 95
spotted wren-babbler 381
stress 166–8
suicide 79
sunscreen 144
Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve 56, 60
sunburn 164–5
Sundarijal 88, 297, 303–5, 312–313, 358–60, 362
Swayambhu 88, 95, 98, 117, 285, 302–03
Syke’s nightjar 55
Taaruche viewpoint 328
Tamang Heritage Museum 288
Tarke Ghyang 295, 297, 303, 309–12
Tashigaon 381–4
Teaching Hospital 88, 138, 169, 172
Tengboche 34, 177, 247, 254, 258, 260–3, 268
Thakur 378
Thamel 21, 60, 62–63, 82, 88, 90, 92–94, 96, 135–6, 156, 169
Thangkot escarpment 84, 221–2, 346, 363
theft and security 93, 115–6, 222, 248
Thini 197–200
Thorung High Camp 242
Thorung La 36, 39, 68, 156, 184, 199, 203–4, 206, 219–20, 235–6, 241–3, 268
Thrangu Rimpoche 235
Thundu, Nima 23
ticks 155
tij 106
Tilicho 47, 200, 208, 235, 238–40
Timure 331
Tin Ghare 341
Tiri 203
Tiwol Danda (red fort on the hill) 234–6
Tourism for Rural Poverty Alleviation Program (TRPAP) 318
trail running 269
Trekker Information Management System (TIMS) 59–60, 86, 88, 93, 171, 184–5, 187
Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN) 20, 24, 59–60, 93, 136, 185, 391
trekking peaks 32–33, 253, 265–6, 293, 386, 391
Tribeni Temple Complex 394
Tribhuvan International Airport 59, 88, 302
Trulshik Rimpoche 249
Tsergo Ri 292–3
United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) 95
United Nations Food Program 43, 373
United Nations International Labor Organization 337, 386
urinary tract infections 150–1
Vedas 100
vegetarianism 37, 65, 215–6, 404, 407
vertigo 165–6
Vijaya Dasami 102
Vishnu 95, 100, 102, 198, 201, 302, 335
vomiting 84, 141, 143, 147–9, 151, 159, 164
waste disposal 132–4
water purification 145–6
weaving 215, 224, 305, 324, 341, 372, 389
Yangri Danda 311
yeti 279