Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, East of Avenue Bosquet
Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, West of Avenue Bosquet
In the Jewish Quarter, Rue des Rosiers
Riverside Picnic for Impoverished Romantics
Restaurant Row Streets near St. Sulpice Church
Map: Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden
Between the Panthéon and the Cluny Museum
On and near St. Germain-des-Prés
The Parisian eating scene is kept at a rolling boil. Entire books (and lives) are dedicated to the subject. Paris is France’s wine-and-cuisine melting pot. Though it lacks a style of its own (only French onion soup is truly Parisian; otherwise, there is no “Parisian cuisine” to speak of), it draws from the best of France. Paris could hold a gourmet Olympics and import nothing.
My restaurant recommendations are centered on the same great neighborhoods listed in the Sleeping in Paris chapter; you can come home exhausted after a busy day of sightseeing and find a good selection of eateries right around the corner. And evening is a fine time to explore any of these delightful neighborhoods, even if you’re sleeping elsewhere. Serious eaters looking for even more suggestions should consult the always appetizing www.parisbymouth.com, an eating-and-drinking guide to Paris.
To save piles of euros, go to a bakery for takeout, or stop at a café for lunch. Cafés and brasseries are happy to serve a plat du jour (plate of the day, about €12-20) or a chef-like salad (about €10-14) day or night. To save even more, consider picnics (tasty takeout dishes available at charcuteries). Try eating your big meal at lunch, when many fine restaurants offer their dinnertime fixed-price menus at a reduced price.
Linger longer over dinner—restaurants expect you to enjoy a full meal. Most restaurants I’ve listed have set-price menus between €20 and €38. In most cases, the few extra euros you pay are well spent and open up a variety of better choices. Remember that a service charge is included in the prices (so little or no tipping is expected—see here for detailed tipping advice).
Many restaurants close Sunday and/or Monday. They open for dinner around 19:00 (a few at 18:30), with last seating at about 22:00 or later. Eat early with tourists or late with locals—smaller restaurants that are popular with locals get crowded after 21:00. If a restaurant is open for lunch, the hours are generally 12:00-14:30 (last orders at 14:00). If you want to eat in the late afternoon, when restaurants are closed, pop in to a brasserie or café. At any eatery, before choosing a seat outside, remember that smokers love outdoor tables.
For details on dining in Paris’ restaurants, cafés, and brasseries, getting takeout, and assembling a picnic—as well as a rundown of French cuisine—see the “Eating” section in the Practicalities chapter (here).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
The Rue Cler neighborhood caters to its residents. Its eateries, while not destination places, have an intimate charm. I’ve provided a full range of choices—from cozy ma-and-pa diners to small and trendy boutique restaurants to classic, big, boisterous bistros.
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$ Café du Marché boasts the best seats on Rue Cler. The owner’s philosophy: Brasserie on speed—crank out good enough food at great prices to appreciative locals and savvy tourists. It’s high-energy, with young waiters who barely have time to smile...très Parisian. This place works well if you don’t mind a limited selection and want to eat an inexpensive one-course meal among a commotion of people. The chalkboard lists your choices: good, hearty salads or more filling plats du jour. Arrive before 19:30 to avoid long waits (Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, no reservations, at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue du Champ de Mars, 38 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 51 27).
$$ Tribeca Restaurant, next door to Café du Marché, is less trendy and more family-friendly, serving more varied cuisine. Choose from kid-pleasing Italian dishes or try the roasted Camembert à la crème (pizzas, pastas, and salads; daily, tel. 01 45 55 12 01).
$ Le Petit Cler is an adorable and popular little bistro with long leather booths, a vintage interior, tight ranks of tiny outdoor tables, and simple, tasty, inexpensive dishes such as €9 omelets and €7 soup of the moment (delicious pots de crème, daily, opens early for dinner, arrive early or call in advance, 29 Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 50 17 50).
$$ Café le Roussillon offers a younger, publike ambience with good-value food. You’ll find hearty salads, design-your-own omelets, fajitas, and easygoing waiters (daily, indoor seating only, corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 51 47 53).
$ Crêperie Ulysée en Gaule offers cheap seats on Rue Cler with crêpes to go. Readers of this book who buy a drink can enjoy a crêpe at a table for takeaway prices. The family adores its Greek dishes, but their crêpes are your least expensive hot meal on this street (28 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 61 82).
$ Brasserie Aux PTT, a simple traditional café delivering fair-value fare, reminds Parisians of the old days on Rue Cler. Rick Steves diners are promised a free kir with their dinner (cheap wine, closed Sun, opposite 53 Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 51 94 96).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$$$ Le Florimond is fun for a special occasion. The setting is warm and welcoming. Locals come for classic French cuisine at fair prices. Friendly Laurent, whose playful ties change daily, gracefully serves one small room of tables and loves to give suggestions. Pascale, his chef of more than 20 years, produces particularly tasty stuffed cabbage, lobster ravioli, and confit de canard. The Château Chênaie house wine is excellent (closed Sun and first and third Sat of month, reservations encouraged, 19 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 45 55 40 38, www.leflorimond.com).
$$$ Bistrot Belhara delivers a delicious, vintage French dining experience in an intimate setting. The chef-owner Thierry cooks up a blend of inventive and classic dishes. Earnest and helpful Frédéric runs the front of the house with a smile (closed Sun-Mon, reservations smart, a block off Rue Cler at 23 Rue Duvivier, tel. 01 45 51 41 77, www.bistrotbelhara.com).
$$ Café le Bosquet is a contemporary Parisian brasserie where you’ll dine for a decent price inside or outside on a broad sidewalk. Come here for standard café fare—salad, French onion soup, steak-frites, or a plat du jour. Lanky owner “Jeff” offers three-course meals and plats (closed Sun, corner of Rue du Champ de Mars at 46 Avenue Bosquet, tel. 01 45 51 38 13, www.bosquetparis.com).
$$$ La Terrasse du 7ème is a sprawling, happening café with grand outdoor seating and a living room-like interior with comfy love seats. Located on a corner, it overlooks a busy intersection with a constant parade of people and traffic. Chairs face the street, as a meal here is like dinner theater—and the show is slice-of-life Paris (good salade niçoise, French onion soup, and foie gras, daily until at least 24:00, tel. 01 45 55 00 02).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: La Tour-Maubourg)
$$$$ L’Ami Jean offers authentic Basque specialties in a snug-but-convivial atmosphere with red peppers and Basque stuff dangling from the ceiling. While pricey, portions are hearty and delicious. Parisians detour long distances to savor the gregarious chef’s special cuisine and fun atmosphere. For dinner arrive before 19:30 or reserve ahead (€80 eight-course dinner menu, a more accessible lunch menu for €35, closed Sun-Mon, 27 Rue Malar, tel. 01 47 05 86 89, www.lamijean.fr).
$$$$ Thoumieux is the neighborhood’s grand brasserie, with a showy interior lined with red velvet chairs, chandeliers, and fussy waiters. It’s a mini-splurge for most but designed as an affordable and user-friendly version of the two-star Michelin restaurant upstairs. Come here for a gourmet brasserie experience. Sharing plates is encouraged (enticing tasting menus, daily, 79 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 47 05 49 75, www.thoumieux.fr).
$$$ Au Petit Tonneau is a small, authentic French bistro with original, time-warp decor, red-checked tablecloths, and carefully prepared food from a limited menu. Away from the Rue Cler touristic crush, this place is real, the cuisine is delicious, and the experience is what you came to France for (good à la carte choices or three-course menu that changes with season, well-priced wines, closed Mon, 20 Rue Surcouf, tel. 01 47 05 09 01, charming owner Arlette at your service).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Ecole Militaire unless otherwise noted)
Some of these places line peaceful Rue de l’Exposition (a few blocks west of Rue Cler), allowing you to do a quick survey before sitting down.
$$$$ 58 Tour Eiffel, on the tower’s first level, provides a feast for both your belly and your eyes, with incredible city views. Dinner here is pricey and requires a reservation (two seatings: 18:30 with €85-125 menus, and 21:00 with €100-185 menus; reserve long in advance, especially if you want a view, no jeans or tennis shoes at dinner). During the day they serve a €42 picque-nique-chic lunch, which is packaged in a little basket (€19 for kids, daily 11:30-16:30, reservations are a good idea, Mo: Bir-Hakeim or Trocadéro, RER: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, tel. 01 72 76 18 46, toll tel. 08 25 56 66 62, www.restaurants-toureiffel.com). With a reservation, you ride up for free in the restaurant elevator.
$$$$ La Fontaine de Mars, a longtime favorite and neighborhood institution, is charmingly situated on a tiny, jumbled square with tables jammed together for the serious business of eating. Reserve in advance for a table on the ground floor or square, and pass on the upstairs room (superb foie gras and desserts, daily, 129 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 47 05 46 44, www.fontainedemars.com).
$$$ Au Petit Sud Ouest comes wrapped in stone walls and wood beams, making it a cozy place to sample cuisine from southwestern France. Duck, goose, foie gras, cassoulet, and truffles are all on la carte. Tables come with toasters to heat your bread—it enhances the flavors of the foie gras. Try the salade with foie gras or the cassoulet (closed Sun-Mon, 46 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 45 55 59 59, www.au-petit-sud-ouest.fr, managed by friendly Chantal).
$$$ Le P’tit Troquet is a petite eatery taking you back to the Paris of the 1920s. Marie serves and José cooks a delicious range of traditional choices prepared creatively. The homey charm and tasty food make this restaurant a favorite of connoisseurs (their €35 three-course menu is available for €25 at lunch, dinner service from 18:30, closed Sun, reservations smart, 28 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 80 39).
$$$ Billebaude, run by patient Pascal, is a small bistro popular with locals and tourists. The focus is on what’s fresh, including catch-of-the-day fish and meats from the hunt (available in fall and winter). Chef Sylvain, an avid hunter (as the decor suggests), is determined to deliver quality at a fair price. Skip this place if you’re in a hurry (closed Sun-Mon, 29 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 45 55 20 96).
$$$ Pottoka attracts locals willing to crowd into this shoebox for a chance to sample tasty Basque cuisine. Service is friendly, wines are reasonable, and the focus is on food rather than decor (daily, book ahead, 4 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 45 51 88 38, www.pottoka.fr).
$$ Café de Mars is a relaxed place for a reasonably priced and well-prepared meal. It’s also comfortable for single diners thanks to a convivial counter (closed Sun, 11 Rue Augereau, tel. 01 45 50 10 90, www.cafedemars.com).
$ Le Royal is a tiny neighborhood fixture offering the cheapest meals in the area. This humble time-warp place, with prices and decor from another era, comes from an age when cafés sold firewood and served food as an afterthought. Parisians dine here because “it’s like eating at home.” Gentle Guillaume is a fine host (daily, 212 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 47 53 92 90).
$$ Affordable Italian: You’ll find two good choices for reasonably priced Italian cuisine in the neighborhood. Ristorante Gloria is almost elegant (108 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 56 00 98). Ristorante Gusto is more fun, tight, and characteristic (199 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 45 55 00 43).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire or RER: Pont de l’Alma)
Ever since leaving the venerable Hôtel Crillon, famed chef Christian Constant has made a career of taking the “snoot” out of French cuisine—and making it accessible to people like us. Today you’ll find three of his restaurants strung along one block of Rue St. Dominique between Rue Augereau and Rue de l’Exposition. Each is distinct, offering a different experience and price range. None is cheap, but they’re all a good value, delivering top-quality cuisine.
$$$$ Le Violon d’Ingres, where Christian won his first Michelin star, makes for a good excuse to dress up and dine finely in Paris. Glass doors open onto a chic eating scene—hushed and elegant. Service is formal yet helpful; the cuisine is what made this restaurateur’s reputation (order à la carte or consider their €110 seven-course tasting menu, cheaper weekday lunch menu, daily, reservations essential, 135 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 55 15 05, www.maisonconstant.com).
$$$ Les Cocottes attracts a crowd of trendy Parisians with its fun energy and creative dishes served in cocottes—small cast-iron pots (tasty soups, daily, dinner service from 18:30, go early as they don’t take reservations, 135 Rue St. Dominique).
$$ Café Constant is a cool, two-level place that feels more like a small bistro-wine bar than a café. Delicious and well-priced dishes are served in a snug setting. Arrive early to get a table downstairs if you can—upstairs seating is less fun (daily, opens at 7:00 for breakfast, meals served nonstop 12:00-23:00, no reservations, corner of Rue Augereau and Rue St. Dominique, next to recommended Hôtel de Londres Eiffel, tel. 01 47 53 73 34).
Picnics with floodlit views of the Eiffel Tower or along the riverside promenade are très romantique, and Rue Cler is a festival of food just waiting to be celebrated. For a magical picnic dinner, assemble it in no fewer than five shops on Rue Cler. For less character and more efficiency, there are fine supermarkets (long hours daily) next to the recommended Hôtel la Bourdonnais (Avenue de la Bourdonnais) and Hôtel Bosquet (Rue du Champ de Mars). If shops are closed, small, late-night groceries are at 197 Rue de Grenelle, as well as where Rues Cler and Grenelle cross.
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
This sleepy neighborhood was not made for night owls, but there are a few notable exceptions. The focal point of before- and after-dinner posing occurs along the broad sidewalk at the intersection of Avenues de la Motte-Picquet and Tourville (Mo: Ecole Militaire). Le Tourville and Café des Officiers gather a sea of outward-facing seats for the important business of people-watching.
La Terrasse du 7ème, across the avenue, has a less pretentious clientele (see listing, earlier). On Rue Cler, Café du Marché (listed earlier) attracts a Franco-American café crowd until at least midnight, though the younger-in-spirit L’Eclair cocktail café (a few doors down at #32) rocks it until very late. Café Roussillon has a good French pubby atmosphere at the corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler. O’Brien’s Pub is a relaxed Parisian rendition of an Irish pub/sports bar, with French men in suits tossing darts and drinking pints (77 Rue St. Dominique, Mo: La Tour Maubourg).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
The trendy Marais is filled with diners enjoying good food in colorful and atmospheric eateries. The scene is competitive and changes all the time. I’ve listed an assortment of eateries—all handy to recommended hotels—that offer good food at decent prices, plus a memorable experience.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: St-Paul or Bastille)
This square offers Old World Marais elegance, a handful of eateries, and an ideal picnic site until dusk, when the park closes. Strolling around the arcade after dark is more important than dining here—fanciful art galleries alternate with restaurants and cafés. Choose a restaurant that best fits your mood and budget; most have arcade seating and provide big space heaters to make outdoor dining during colder months an option. Also consider just a drink on the square at Café Hugo.
$$$ La Place Royale offers a fine location on the square with good seating inside or out. Expect patient waiters (owner Arnaud prides himself on service), and a family-friendly menu with salads, pizzas, and classic dishes. The cuisine is priced well and served nonstop all day, and the exceptional wine list is reasonable (try the Sancerre white). The €42 menu comes with three courses, a half-bottle of wine per person, and coffee (lunch specials, daily, reserve ahead to dine outside under the arcade, 2 bis Place des Vosges, tel. 01 42 78 58 16).
$$ Café Hugo, named for the square’s most famous resident, serves salads and basic café fare with a fun energy. The food’s good enough, but the setting’s terrific, with good seating under the arches (daily, 22 Place des Vosges, tel. 01 42 72 64 04).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Chemin Vert)
$$$ Chez Janou, a Provençal bistro, tumbles out of its corner building and fills its broad sidewalk with happy eaters. Don’t let the trendy and youthful crowd intimidate you: It’s relaxed and charming, with helpful and patient service. The curbside tables are inviting, but I’d sit inside (with very tight seating) to immerse myself in the happy commotion. The style is French Mediterranean, with an emphasis on vegetables (daily—book ahead or arrive when it opens, 2 blocks beyond Place des Vosges at 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, tel. 01 42 72 28 41, www.chezjanou.com). They serve 81 varieties of pastis (licorice-flavored liqueur, browse the list above the bar).
$$$ Le Petit Marché delivers a cozy and intimate bistro experience inside and out with friendly service and a delicious cuisine that blends French classics with a slight Asian influence (daily, 9 Rue du Béarn, tel. 01 42 72 06 67).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Bastille)
$$$ Brasserie Bofinger, an institution for over a century, is famous for seafood and traditional cuisine with Alsatian flair. You’ll eat in a sprawling interior, surrounded by brisk, black-and-white-attired waiters. Come here for the one-of-a-kind ambience in the elaborately decorated ground-floor rooms, reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties. Reserve ahead to dine under the memorable, grand 1919 coupole (avoid eating upstairs). If you’ve always wanted one of those picturesque seafood platters, this is a good place (open daily for lunch and for dinner, fun kids’ menu, fair-value menus and reasonably priced wines, 5 Rue de la Bastille, don’t be confused by the lesser “Petite” Bofinger across the street, tel. 01 42 72 87 82, www.bofingerparis.com).
$$$ Au Temps des Cerises is a warm place with wads of character and tight inside seating (and a couple of outdoor tables). Come for a glass of wine at the small zinc bar, or stay for a tasty dinner (good cheap wine, daily, at the corner of Rue du Petit Musc and Rue de la Cerisaie, tel. 01 42 72 08 63).
$$$ Vin des Pyrénées is a lighthearted place that feels like Rembrandt’s living room—the floor is a mismatch of old tiles, knickknacks, and Old World decor. The chalkboard lists a mélange of authentic and nicely presented dishes (two-course lunch special, daily, 25 Rue Beautreillis, tel. 01 42 72 64 94).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: St-Paul)
$$$ At Chez Mademoiselle, the country-elegant, candlelit decor recalls charming owner Alexia’s previous career as a French comédienne. Enjoy a French-paced dinner in a relaxing atmosphere inside or at a sidewalk table. Ingredients are fresh and prepared simply. The tender château filet is served all year, but most dishes follow the seasons (good wine list, daily, 16 Rue Charlemagne, tel. 01 42 72 14 16).
$$ Breizh Café is worth the hike for some of the best Breton crêpes in Paris (“Breizh” means Brittany). This simple joint serves organic crêpes—both sweet and savory—and small rolls made for dipping in rich sauces and salted butter. The crêpes run the gamut from traditional ham, cheese, and egg to Asian fusion. They also talk about cider like a sommelier would talk about wine. Try a sparkling cider, a Breton cola, or my favorite—lait ribot, a buttermilk-like drink (closed Mon-Tue, serves nonstop 11:30-late, reservations highly recommended, 109 Rue du Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 13 77, www.breizhcafe.com).
$$ On Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: This small, romantic square, just off Rue St. Antoine, is cloaked in extremely Parisian, leafy-square ambience. It feels like the Latin Quarter but classier. On a balmy evening, this is a neighborhood favorite, with a handful of restaurants offering mediocre cuisine (you’re here for the setting). It’s also family-friendly: Most places serve French hamburgers, and kids can dance around the square while parents breathe. Survey the square. You’ll find three French bistros with similar features and menus: Le Marché, Chez Joséphine, and Le Bistrot de la Place (all open daily, cheaper for lunch, tight seating on flimsy chairs indoors and out, Chez Joséphine has best chairs). Just off the square, the fun-loving Les Bougresses offers less romance but far better food for the price (inside seating only, daily from 18:30, 6 Rue de Jarente, tel. 01 48 87 71 21).
$ On Rue St. Antoine: Several hardworking Asian fast-food eateries, great for an inexpensive meal, line this street.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: St-Paul or Hôtel de Ville)
$$ Chez Marianne is a neighborhood fixture that serves tasty Jewish cuisine in a fun atmosphere with Parisian élan. Choose from several indoor zones with a cluttered wine shop/deli feeling, or sit outside. You’ll select from two dozen zakouskis (hot and cold hor d’oeuvres) to assemble your plat. Vegetarians will find great options (takeaway falafel sandwiches, long hours daily, corner of Rue des Rosiers and Rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais, tel. 01 42 72 18 86).
$$ Le Loir dans la Théière (“The Dormouse in the Teapot”—think Alice in Wonderland) is a cozy, mellow teahouse offering a welcoming ambience for tired travelers (laptops and smartphones are not welcome). It’s ideal for lunch and popular on weekends. They offer a daily assortment of creatively filled quiches and bake up an impressive array of homemade desserts that are proudly displayed in the dining room (daily 9:00-19:00 but only dessert-type items offered after 15:00, 3 Rue des Rosiers, tel. 01 42 72 90 61).
$ L’As du Falafel rules the falafel scene in the Jewish quarter. Monsieur Isaac, the “Ace of Falafel” here since 1979, brags, “I’ve got the biggest pita on the street...and I fill it up.” Your cheap meal comes on a plastic plate; the €8 “special falafel” is the big hit, but many enjoy the lighter chicken version (poulet grillé) or the tasty and massive assiette de falafel. Wash it down with a cold Maccabee beer. Their takeout service draws a constant crowd (long hours most days except closed Fri evening and all day Sat, air-con, 34 Rue des Rosiers, tel. 01 48 87 63 60).
$ La Droguerie, a hole-in-the-wall crêpe stand a few blocks farther down Rue des Rosiers, is a good budget option if falafels don’t work for you but cheap does. Grab a stool, or get a crêpe to go (daily 12:00-22:00, 56 Rue des Rosiers).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Hôtel de Ville)
$$$$ Au Bourguignon du Marais is a dressy wine bar/bistro for Burgundy lovers, where excellent wines (Burgundian only, available by the glass) blend with a good selection of well-designed dishes and efficient service. The œufs en meurette are mouthwatering, and the bœuf bourguignon could feed two (daily, pleasing indoor and outdoor seating on a perfect Marais corner, 52 Rue François Miron, tel. 01 48 87 15 40).
$$ L’Ebouillanté is a breezy café, romantically situated near the river on a broad, cobbled pedestrian lane behind a church. With great outdoor seating and an artsy, cozy interior, it’s perfect for an inexpensive and relaxing tea, snack, or lunch—or for dinner on a warm evening. Their €15 bricks—paper-thin, Tunisian-inspired pancakes stuffed with what you would typically find in an omelet—come with a small salad (daily 12:00-21:30, closes earlier in winter, a block off the river at 6 Rue des Barres, tel. 01 42 74 70 57).
$ BHV Department Store’s fifth-floor cafeteria provides nice views, good prices, and many main courses to choose from, with a salad bar, pizza by the slice, and pasta. It’s family-easy (Mon-Sat 11:30-18:00, hot food served until 16:00, open later Wed, closed Sun, at intersection of Rue du Temple and Rue de la Verrerie, one block from Hôtel de Ville).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
Picnic at peaceful Place des Vosges (closes at dusk), Square George Caïn (near the Carnavalet Museum), or on the Ile St. Louis quais. Stretch your euros at the basement supermarket of the Monoprix department store (closed Sun, near Place des Vosges on Rue St. Antoine). You’ll find a small grocery open until 23:00 on Ile St. Louis.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
Trendy cafés and bars—popular with gay men—cluster on Rue des Archives and Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie. There’s also a line of bars and cafés providing front-row seats for the buff parade on Rue Vieille du Temple, a block north of Rue de Rivoli—the horseshoe-shaped Au Petit Fer à Cheval bar (with tiny dining room in back) and the atmospheric La Belle Hortense bookstore/wine bar are the focal points of the action. Nearby, Rue des Rosiers bustles with youthful energy, but there are no cafés to observe from. La Perla dishes up imitation Tex-Mex and is stuffed with Parisian millennials in search of the perfect margarita (26 Rue François Myron, tel. 01 42 77 59 40).
$ Le Pick-Clops bar-restaurant is a happy peanuts-and-lots-of-cocktails diner with bright neon, loud colors, and a garish local crowd. It’s perfect for immersing yourself in today’s Marais world—a little boisterous, a little edgy, a little gay, fun-loving, easygoing...and sans tourists. Sit inside on old-fashioned diner stools or streetside to watch the constant Marais parade (daily 7:00-24:00, 16 Rue Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 40 29 02 18).
More Options: The best scene for hard-core clubbers is the dizzying array of wacky eateries, bars, and dance halls on Rue de Lappe. Just east of the stately Place de la Bastille, it’s one of the wildest nightspots in Paris and not for everyone.
The most enjoyable peaceful evening may be simply mentally donning your floppy “three musketeers” hat and slowly strolling Place des Vosges, window shopping the art galleries.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Pont Marie)
This romantic and peaceful neighborhood merits a trip for dinner even if your hotel is elsewhere. Cruise the island’s main street for a variety of options, and after dinner, sample Paris’ favorite ice cream (described below) before strolling across to Ile de la Cité to see a floodlit Notre-Dame. These recommended spots—ranging from rowdy to petite, rustic to elegant—line the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile (see map on here).
$$ Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois (“Our Ancestors the Gauls”), famous for its rowdy, medieval-cellar atmosphere, is made for hungry warriors and wenches who like to swill hearty wine. For dinner they serve up rustic, all-you-can-eat fare with straw baskets of raw veggies and bundles of saucisson (cut whatever you like with your dagger), plates of pâté, a meat course, cheese, a dessert, and all the wine you can stomach for €40. The food is perfectly edible; burping is encouraged. If you want to overeat, drink too much wine, be surrounded by tourists (mostly French), and holler at your friends while receiving smart-aleck buccaneer service, you’re home (daily, 39 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 66 07).
$$ Les Fous de l’Ile is a lighthearted mash-up of a collector’s haunt, art gallery, and bistro. It’s a fun place to eat bistro fare with gourmet touches for a good price (daily, serves nonstop, 33 Rue des Deux Ponts, tel. 01 43 25 76 67).
$$ La Brasserie de l’Ile St. Louis offers purely Alsatian cuisine (hearty pork and kraut fare—try the choucroute garnie or coq au riesling for €22), served in a vigorous, hunting-lodge setting with no-nonsense, slap-it-down service on wine-stained paper tablecloths. The front tables make a good, balmy-evening perch for watching the theatrical street scene—often with live music. If it’s chilly, the interior is also fun for a memorable night out (closed Wed, no reservations, faces Ile de la Cité at 55 Quai de Bourbon, tel. 01 43 54 02 59).
$$$ L’Orangerie is an inviting, rustic-yet-elegant place with soft lighting and comfortable, spacious seating. The cuisine is traditional with occasional modern touches (closed Mon, 28 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 93 98).
$$ Auberge de la Reine Blanche—woodsy, cozy, and tight—welcomes diners willing to rub elbows with their neighbors. Earnest owner Michel serves basic, traditional cuisine at reasonable prices (closed Wed, 30 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 07 87).
$ Café Med, near the pedestrian bridge to Notre-Dame, is a tiny, cheery crêperie with good-value salads, crêpes, and plats (daily, 77 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 29 73 17). Two similar crêperies are just across the street.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
On sunny lunchtimes and balmy evenings, the quai on the Left Bank side of Ile St. Louis is lined with locals who have more class than money, spreading out tablecloths and even lighting candles for elegant picnics. And tourists can enjoy the same budget meal. A handy grocery store at #67 on the main drag (closed Tue) has tabbouleh and other simple, cheap takeaway dishes for your picnicking pleasure. The bakery a few blocks down at #40 serves quiche and pizza (open until 20:00, closed Sun-Mon), and a gourmet deli and cheese shop—aptly named 38 Saint Louis—can be found at #38.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
Half the people strolling Ile St. Louis are licking an ice-cream cone because this is the home of les glaces Berthillon (now sold throughout Paris, though still made here on Ile St. Louis). The original Berthillon shop, at 31 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, is marked by the line of salivating customers (closed Mon-Tue). For a less famous but satisfying treat, the Italian gelato a block away at Amorino Gelati is giving Berthillon competition (no line, bigger portions, easier to see what you want, and they offer little tastes—Berthillon doesn’t need to, 47 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 44 07 48 08). Having some of each is not a bad thing.
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
Sleeping in the Luxembourg neighborhood puts you near many appealing dining and after-hours options. Because my hotels cluster near St. Sulpice Church, the Panthéon, and Rue de Sèvres, I’ve focused my restaurant picks in the same areas. Restaurants around St. Sulpice tend to be boisterous; those near the Panthéon are calmer; it’s a short walk from one area to the other.
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: St-Sulpice or St-Germain-des-Près)
Rue des Canettes and Rue Guisarde teem with busy eateries offering a huge selection of cuisines at generally affordable prices. It’s hard to recommend one over the next, but it’s a fun neighborhood to browse. Consider Boucherie Roulière (for steaks, 24 Rue des Canettes), Monte Verdi (romantic Italian with piano nightly from 20:00, 5 Rue Guisarde), Chez Georges (dive bar with dank cellar for a drink before or after dinner, 11 Rue des Canettes), Chez Fernand (friendly French bistro fare, 13 Rue Guisarde), and a couple of crêperies (on Rue des Canettes).
A block north of Boulevard St. Germain (toward the river), Rue de Buci has a lineup of bars, cafés, and bistros targeted toward a young, trendy clientele. It’s terrific theater for passersby from 18:00 until late. Consider Café de Paris, a classic brasserie with hearty and creative dinner salads (daily, 10 Rue de Buci).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: Odéon)
$ Pasta Luna is a deli specializing in porky fare from the southernmost French island of Corsica. The proud owner lovingly and slowly makes €6 sandwiches to order. Try the sheep cheese with fig jam or the cured pork loin (served from 11:00 until the bread runs out—usually about 19:00, closed Sun, 15 Rue Mézières, tel. 01 45 44 32 02).
$$$ Brasserie Bouillon Racine takes you back to 1906 with an Art Nouveau carnival of carved wood, stained glass, and old-time lights reflected in beveled mirrors. The over-the-top decor and energetic waiters give it an inviting conviviality. Check upstairs before choosing a table. Their roast suckling pig (€20) is a favorite. There’s Belgian beer on tap and a fascinating history on the menu (daily, serves nonstop, 3 Rue Racine, tel. 01 85 15 21 33, www.bouillon-racine.com).
$$$ La Méditerranée is all about seafood from the south served in a pastel and dressy setting...with similar clientele. The scene and the cuisine are sophisticated yet accessible, and the view of the Odéon is formidable (daily, reservations smart, facing the Odéon at 2 Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 43 26 02 30, www.la-mediterranee.com).
$$ Café de l’Odéon, on a square with the venerable theater, is a place to savor a light meal with a stylish young crowd (but only in good weather, as it’s all outdoors). The menu offers a limited selection of well-prepared dishes at fair prices—you’ll feel like a winner eating so well in such a Parisian setting (good salads, reasonable plats, May-Oct daily 12:00-23:00, no reservations, Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 44 85 41 30).
$$$$ Le Comptoir Restaurant is a trendy but relaxed splurge where trusting foodies book long in advance to enjoy gourmet dishes with a modern flair. In a lively, street-front setting, you’ll eat what the chef cooks—the lone menu changes daily based on his inspiration, and there are no other choices (incredible five-course €60 menu, daily, book well ahead, 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, tel. 01 44 27 07 97).
$$ L’Avant Comptoir, a stand-up-only hors d’oeuvres bar, serves a delightful array of French-Basque tapas on a sleek zinc counter. With illustrated menu cards hanging from the ceiling, this popular place is designed to make the cuisine from next door’s pricey Le Comptoir more accessible. At the walk-up counter outside, you can get top quality sandwiches and crêpes to go (for less and with less commotion). But step inside for the foodie bar and it’s another world (daily 12:00-23:00, 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon).
$ Restaurant Polidor is the Parisian equivalent of a beloved neighborhood diner. A fixture here since 1845, it’s much loved for its unpretentious quality cooking, fun old-Paris atmosphere, and fair value. Noisy, happy diners sit tightly at shared tables, savoring classic bourgeois plats from every corner of France (daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-23:00, cash only, no reservations, 41 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, tel. 01 43 26 95 34).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: Cluny-La Sorbonne or RER: Luxembourg)
$$$ Les Papilles is a warm, woody bistro where you’ll dine surrounded by bottles of wine and eat what’s offered...and you won’t complain. It’s a foodie’s dream: one menu, no choices, and no regrets. Choose your wine from the shelf or ask for advice from the burly, rugby-playing owner, then relax and let the food arrive. Reserve ahead (€20 daily marmite du marché—market stew, bigger and cheaper selection at lunch, closed Sun-Mon, 30 Rue Gay Lussac, tel. 01 43 25 20 79, www.lespapillesparis.fr).
$$ Le Pré Verre, a block from the Cluny Museum, is a chic wine bistro—a refreshing alternative in a part of the Latin Quarter mostly known for low-quality, tourist-trapping eateries. Offering imaginative, modern cuisine at fair prices, the place is packed. The bargain lunch menu includes a starter, main course, glass of wine, and coffee (good wine list, closed Sun-Mon, 8 Rue Thénard, reservations necessary, tel. 01 43 54 59 47, www.lepreverre.com).
$$ Le Soufflot, named after the architect of the Panthéon, delivers dynamite views of the inspiring dome. Dine on good-enough café cuisine or just enjoy a drink (16 Rue Soufflot, tel. 01 43 26 57 56).
$$ Café de l’Ecritoire sits on an appealing little square surrounding a gurgling fountain and facing Paris’ legendary Sorbonne University—just a block from the Cluny Museum. It’s a typical brasserie with salads, plats du jour, and good seating inside and out (daily, 3 Place de la Sorbonne, tel. 01 43 54 60 02).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: Sèvres-Babylone)
$$ Au Sauvignon Café is perfectly positioned for a predinner drink and people-watching. The interior is vintage Paris, with wall-to-ceiling decor and a fine zinc bar (daily, 80 Rue des Saints-Pères, tel. 01 45 48 49 02).
$$$ La Petite Chaise, founded in 1680, is Paris’ oldest restaurant (which alone justifies the trip here for me). Offering a good selection of traditional dishes, generous servings, and formal but friendly service, it appeals to those in search of a classic Parisian dining experience (terrific €36 three-course dinner menu, daily, 36 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 42 22 13 35).
$$ Le Basile is full of young, loud, and happy eaters thrilled to have found a place where drinks are dirt cheap and nothing on the menu costs more than €17 (open daily from 7:00, food served 12:00-23:00, 34 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 42 22 59 46).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Rue Mouffetard” map, here.)
(Mo: Censier Daubenton or Place Monge)
Several blocks behind the Panthéon, Rue Mouffetard is a conveyor belt of comparison-shopping eaters with wall-to-wall budget options (fondue, crêpes, Italian, falafel, and Greek). Come here to sift through the crowds and eat cheaply. This street stays up late and likes to party (particularly around Place de la Contrescarpe). The gauntlet begins on top, at thriving Place de la Contrescarpe, and ends below where Rue Mouffetard stops at St. Médard Church. Both ends offer fun cafés where you can watch the action. The upper stretch is pedestrian and touristy; the bottom stretch is purely Parisian. Anywhere between is no-man’s land for consistent quality. Still, strolling with so many fun seekers is enjoyable, whether you eat or not. For locations, see map on here.
$$$ Café Delmas, at the top of Rue Mouffetard on picturesque Place de la Contrescarpe, is the place to see and be seen. Come here for an expensive before- or after-dinner drink on the terrace or typical but pricey café cuisine (open daily).
$$ Cave de Bourgogne, a local hangout, has reasonably priced, good café fare at the bottom of Rue Mouffetard. The outside has picture-perfect tables on a raised terrace; the interior is warm and lively (specials listed on chalkboards, daily, 144 Rue Mouffetard).
Montmartre can be hit or miss; the top of the hill is extremely touristy, with mindless mobs following guides to cancan shows. But if you walk a few blocks away, you’ll find a quieter, more authentic meal at one of the places I’ve listed below. For locations, see map on here.
(See “Hotels & Restaurants in Montmartre” map, here.)
(Mo: Abbesses or Anvers)
The steps in front of Sacré-Cœur are perfect for a picnic with a view, though the spot comes with lots of company. For a quieter setting, consider the park directly behind the church. Along the touristy main drag (near Place du Tertre and just off it), several fun piano bars serve mediocre crêpes and overpriced bistro fare but offer great people-watching. The options become less touristy and more tasty as you escape from the top of the hill.
$$$ Restaurant Chez Plumeau, just off jam-packed Place du Tertre, is touristy yet moderately priced, with formal service but great seating either in a characteristic dining room or on a tiny square under a wisteria arbor (elaborate salads, daily, 4 Place du Calvaire, Mo: Abbesses, tel. 01 46 06 26 29).
$$ L’Eté en Pente Douce is a good Montmartre choice, hiding under some trees just downhill from the crowds on a classic neighborhood corner. It features cheery indoor and outdoor seating, €10 plats du jour and salads, vegetarian options, and good wines (daily, many steps below Sacré-Cœur to the left as you leave, 23 Rue Muller, Mo: Anvers, tel. 01 42 64 02 67).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants in Montmartre” map, here.)
(Mo: Abbesses unless otherwise noted)
At the bottom of Montmartre, residents pile into a long lineup of brasseries and cafés near Place des Abbesses, especially along Rue des Abbesses, Rue des Trois Frères, and Rue des Martyrs. Locals tend to gravitate to the cafés on the north side of Rue des Abbesses, leaving the sunnier and pricier cafés on the south side to visitors. Come here for a lively, less touristy scene. Rue des Abbesses is perfect for a picnic-gathering stroll with cheese shops, delis, wine stores, and bakeries. In fact, the bakers at Grenier à Pain (closed Tue-Wed, 38 Rue des Abbesses) and at Au Levain d’Antan (closed Sat-Sun, 6 Rue des Abbesses) have won the award for the best baguette in Paris.
$$$ Le Miroir’s kitchen is run by a young and enthusiastic chef cooking up seasonal French fare. Go for the high-quality ingredients served to a locals-only crowd (good-value lunch special, closed Sun-Mon, 94 Rue des Martyrs, tel. 01 46 06 50 73, www.restaurantmiroir.com).
$$$ La Balançoire’s rope swing, dangling from the ceiling, sets the tone for this playful spot serving French childhood favorites with a grown-up twist (closed Sun-Mon, 6 Rue Aristide Bruant, tel. 01 42 23 70 83).
$$$ Autour de Midi et Minuit is a classic French bistro sitting on top of a jazz cellar (see here for concert details). Find hot food upstairs and cool jazz downstairs (closed Mon, 11 Rue Lepic, Mo: Blanche or Abbesses, tel. 01 55 79 16 48).
$$ Le Village is a dive bar turned trendy, serving tiny cups of espresso to garbage collectors in the morning and to mustached nonconformists in the afternoon. They have one or two warm plats du jour and several meat-and-cheese-plate combinations (daily 7:00-24:00, 36 Rue des Abbesses, tel. 01 42 54 99 59).
$ La Fourmi, sitting at the bottom of the hill, is a raucous café/bar with lovable rough edges. Open all day, they offer coffee, croissants, and simple, affordable lunches. In the evening, the place is taken over by hilltop hipsters who come for the inexpensive beer and generous cheese plates (daily, 74 Rue des Martyrs, Mo: Anvers or Pigalle, tel. 01 42 64 70 35, Eloise).
Rue des Trois Frères: This street, alive with bars and eateries, is a fun place to comparison shop. Cave à Jojo (#26) anchors the northern edge of the street, with generous cheese and charcuterie plates and an accordion-fueled ambience straight out of the 1950s (closed Sun, 18:00-late, accordion players on Sat nights, tel. 01 42 62 58 54). Across the way at Le Jardin d’en Face (#29), you’ll find more vegetable-focused cooking and outdoor seating (daily, tel. 01 53 28 00 75). La Gûepe (#14), one of the liveliest spots on the street, serves cocktails and small plates that are fun to share (closed Mon, 18:00-late, tel. 01 42 64 98 32).
The following companies all offer $$$$ dinner cruises (reservations required). Bateaux-Mouches and Bateaux Parisiens have the best reputations and the highest prices; Le Capitaine Fracasse is a tad more relaxed. All offer multicourse meals and music in aircraft-carrier-size dining rooms with glass tops and good views. Ask ahead about proper attire (no denim, shorts, or sport shoes); Bateaux-Mouches requires a jacket and tie for men.
Bateaux Parisiens, considered the best of the lot, features a lively atmosphere with a singer, band, and dance floor. Several departures leave daily from Port de la Bourdonnais, just east of the bridge under the Eiffel Tower. The early trip at 18:15 has menus from €69; later cruises are €99-205/person (price depends on seating and menu option; tel. 01 76 64 14 45, www.bateauxparisiens.com). On board, the middle level is best. Pay the extra euros to get seats next to the windows—it’s more romantic and private, with sensational views.
Bateaux-Mouches, started in 1949 and hands-down the most famous, entertains with violin and piano music. You can’t miss its sparkling port on the north side of the river at Pont de l’Alma (€69 for 18:00 cruise, €99-200/person for later trips, RER: Pont de l’Alma, tel. 01 42 25 96 10, www.bateaux-mouches.fr).
Le Capitaine Fracasse offers the budget option (€55-65/person, €80-140 with wine or champagne; reserve ahead online or get there early to secure a table; boarding times vary by season and day of week, walk down stairs in the middle of Bir-Hakeim bridge near the Eiffel Tower to Iles aux Cygne, Mo: Bir-Hakeim or RER: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, tel. 01 46 21 48 15, www.croisiere-paris.com).
Here’s a short list of grand (expensive) Parisian cafés, worth the detour only if you’ve got the time and money for such touristy elegance. Think of these cafés as monuments to another time, and learn why they still matter (see sidebar). For tips on enjoying Parisian cafés, review the “Cafés and Brasseries” section on here; for locations, see the map on here. All are open daily.
(See “Left Bank Walk” map, here.)
(Mo: St. Germain-des-Prés)
Where Boulevard St. Germain meets Rue Bonaparte (and nearby) you’ll find several cafés.
$$$ Les Deux Magots offers prime outdoor seating and a warm interior. Once a favorite of Ernest Hemingway (in The Sun Also Rises, Jake met Brett here) and Jean-Paul Sartre (he and Simone de Beauvoir met here), today the café is filled with international tourists (6 Place St. Germain-des-Prés, tel. 01 45 48 55 25).
$$$ Café de Flore, in the next block, feels more literary—wear your black turtleneck. Pablo Picasso was a regular at the time he painted Guernica (172 Boulevard St. Germain-des-Prés, tel. 01 45 48 55 26).
$$ Le Procope, Paris’ first and most famous café (1686), was a café célèbre, drawing notables such as Voltaire, Rousseau, Balzac, Zola, Robespierre, Victor Hugo, and two Americans, Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson. The dining rooms are beautiful, but the cuisine is average (13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, tel. 01 40 46 79 00).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: Vavin)
An eclectic assortment of historic cafés gathers along the busy Boulevard du Montparnasse near its intersection with Boulevard Raspail. Combine these historic cafés with a visit to Luxembourg Garden, which lies just a few blocks away, down Rue Vavin (next to Le Select).
$$$ La Coupole, built in the 1920s, was decorated by aspiring artists (Léger, Brancusi, and Chagall, among others) in return for free meals. It still supports artists with regular showings on its vast walls. This cavernous café feels like a classy train station, with acres of seating, brass decor, and tuxedoed waiters by the dozen. The food is basic and the service impersonal, but you come for the crazy social scene (food served from 12:00 until the wee hours, come early to get better service, 102 Boulevard du Montparnasse, tel. 01 43 20 14 20).
$$$ Le Select, more easygoing and traditional, was once popular with the more rebellious types—Leon Trotsky, Jean Cocteau, and Pablo Picasso loved it. It feels rather conformist today, with good outdoor seating and pleasant tables just inside the door—though the locals hang out at the bar farther inside (99 Boulevard du Montparnasse, across from La Coupole, tel. 01 45 48 38 24).
$$$$ Le Train Bleu is a grandiose restaurant with a low-slung, leather-couch café-bar area built right into the train station for the Paris Exhibition of 1900 (which also saw the construction of the Pont Alexandre III and the Grand and Petit Palais). It’s simply a grand-scale-everything experience, with over-the-top belle époque decor that speaks of another age, when going to dinner was an event—a chance to see and be seen. Forty-one massive paintings of scenes along the old rail lines tempt diners to consider a getaway. Reserve ahead for dinner, or drop in for a drink before your train leaves (up the stairs opposite track L, tel. 01 43 43 09 06, www.le-train-bleu.com).