Near Ecole Militaire Métro Stop
Closer to Rue St. Dominique (and the Seine)
Near La Tour Maubourg Métro Stop
East of Boulevard Richard Lenoir
Map: Hotels near Luxembourg Garden
Near the Panthéon and Rue Mouffetard
Map: Hotels & Restaurants near Rue Mouffetard
At the Bottom of Rue Mouffetard
Map: Hotels & Restaurants in Montmartre
Near Charles de Gaulle Airport, in Roissy
Paris is a good hotel city. I’ve focused my recommendations on five safe, handy, and colorful neighborhoods: the village-like Rue Cler (near the Eiffel Tower); the artsy and trendy Marais (near Place de la Bastille); the historic island of Ile St. Louis (next door to Notre-Dame); the lively, Latin, and classy Luxembourg Garden neighborhood (on the Left Bank); and the less polished, less central, but less pricey Montmartre neighborhood. I recommend the best accommodations values in each, from €25 dorm beds to deluxe €500 doubles with all the comforts.
For each neighborhood I also list helpful hints and a selection of restaurants and cafés (see the Eating in Paris chapter). Before choosing a hotel, read the descriptions of the neighborhoods closely. Each offers different pros and cons: Your neighborhood is as important as your hotel for the success of your trip.
For lower rates or greater selection, look farther from the river (prices drop proportionately with distance from the Seine), but be prepared to spend more time on the Métro or the bus getting to sights. Those staying at least a week can save on meal costs (if not lodging) by renting an apartment. I also list a few bed-and-breakfast agencies and give suggestions for sleeping near Paris’ airports.
Book your accommodations well in advance if you’ll be traveling during peak season or if your trip coincides with a major holiday (see here). For accommodations in Versailles, Chartres, Giverny, and Auvers-sur-Oise, see those chapters. For Fontainebleau, see here; for Disneyland Paris, see here. For information and tips on pricing, getting deals, making reservations, seasonal differences, and chain hotels in Paris, see here.
(7th arrond., Mo: Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, Invalides)
Rue Cler, lined with open-air produce stands and cafés, is a safe, tidy, pedestrian street. It’s so French that when I step out of my hotel in the morning, I feel like I must have been a poodle in a previous life. How such coziness lodged itself between the high-powered government district, the Eiffel Tower, and Les Invalides, I’ll never know. This is a neighborhood of wide, tree-lined boulevards, stately apartment buildings, and lots of Americans. The American Church and Franco-American Center, American Library, American University, and many of my readers call this area home. Hotels here are a fair value, considering the elegance of the neighborhood. And for sightseeing, you’re within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower, Army Museum, Quai Branly Museum, Seine River, Champs-Elysées, and Orsay and Rodin museums.
Become a local at a Rue Cler café for breakfast, or join the afternoon crowd for une bière pression (a draft beer). On Rue Cler you can eat and browse your way through a street full of cafés, pastry shops, delis, cheese shops, and colorful outdoor produce stalls. Afternoon boules (outdoor bowling) on the Esplanade des Invalides is a relaxing spectator sport (look for the dirt area to the upper right as you face the front of Les Invalides; see “The Rules of Boules” sidebar on here. The manicured gardens behind the golden dome of the Army Museum are free, peaceful, and filled with flowers (at southwest corner of grounds, closes at about 19:00), and the riverfront promenade along the Seine (Les Berges du Seine) is a fine place to walk, run, bike, or just sit and watch the river of people stroll by.
Though hardly a happening nightlife spot, Rue Cler offers many low-impact after-dark activities. Take an evening stroll above or along the river through the parkway between Pont de l’Alma and Pont des Invalides. For an after-dinner cruise on the Seine, it’s a 15-minute walk to the river and the Bateaux-Mouches (see here). For a post-dinner cruise on foot, saunter into the Champ de Mars park to admire the glowing Eiffel Tower. For more ideas on nightlife activities here, see here.
The American Church and Franco-American Center is the community center for Americans living in Paris. It hosts interdenominational worship services every Sunday (traditional services at 9:00 and 11:00; contemporary service at 13:30), and free Sunday concerts (generally Sept-June at 17:00—but not every week and not in Dec, 65 Quai d’Orsay, Mo: Invalides, tel. 01 40 62 05 00, www.acparis.org).
Breakfast on Rue Cler: For a great Rue Cler start to your day, drop by Brasserie Aux PTT, where Rick Steves readers are promised a deux pour douze breakfast special (two “American” breakfasts—juice, a big coffee, croissant, bread, ham, and eggs—for €12; closed Sun, opposite 54 Rue Cler, described in more detail on here).
Services: There’s a large post office at the end of Rue Cler on Avenue de la Motte-Picquet and a handy SNCF Boutique at 80 Rue St. Dominique (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun). You can buy your Paris Museum Pass at Tabac La Cave à Cigares on Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, across from where Rue Cler ends (see here of my Rue Cler Walk), or at Paris Webservices on 12 Rue de l’Exposition (see “Travel Services,” later).
Markets and Shopping: Cross the Champ de Mars park to mix it up with bargain hunters at the twice-weekly open-air market, Marché Boulevard de Grenelle, under the Métro, a few blocks southwest of the Champ de Mars park (Wed and Sun 7:00-12:30, between Mo: Dupleix and Mo: La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle). Rue St. Dominique is the area’s boutique-browsing street.
The game of boules—also called pétanque—is the horseshoes of France. Invented here in the early 1900s, it’s a social yet serious sport, and endlessly entertaining to watch—even more so if you understand the rules.
The game is played with heavy metal balls and a small wooden target ball called a cochonnet (piglet). Whoever gets his boule closest to the cochonnet is awarded points. Teams commonly have specialist players: a pointeur and a tireur. The pointeur’s goal is to lob his balls as close to the target as he can. The tireur’s job is to blast away opponents’ boules.
In teams of two, each player gets three boules. The starting team traces a small circle in the dirt (in which players must stand when launching their boules), and tosses the cochonnet about 30 feet to establish the target. The boule must be thrown underhand, and can be rolled, launched sky-high, or rocketed at its target. The first pointeur shoots, then the opposing pointeur shoots until his boule gets closer. Once the second team lands a boule nearer the cochonnet, the first team goes again. If the other team’s boule is very near the cochonnet, the tireur will likely attempt to knock it away.
Once all boules have been launched, the tally is taken. The team with a boule closest to the cochonnet wins the round, and they receive a point for each boule closer to the target than their opponents’ nearest boule. The first team to get to 13 points wins. A regulation boules field is 10 feet by 43 feet, but the game is played everywhere—just scratch a throwing circle in the sand, toss the cochonnet, and you’re off.
Two minuscule grocery stores, both on Rue de Grenelle, are open until midnight: Epicerie de la Tour (at #197) and Alimentation (at corner with Rue Cler).
Laundry: Launderettes are omnipresent; ask your hotel for the nearest. Here are three handy locations: on Rue Augereau, on Rue Amélie (both between Rue St. Dominique and Rue de Grenelle), and at the southeast corner of Rue Valadon and Rue de Grenelle.
Travel Services: Contact the helpful staff at Paris Webservices to book “coupe-file” tickets that allow you to skip the line at key sights, to buy the Paris Museum Pass, or for assistance with hotels, transportation, local guides, or excursions (office open Mon-Sat 8:00-18:00, closed Sun; available by phone daily 6:00-22:00, 12 Rue de l’Exposition, Mo: Ecole Militaire, RER: Pont de l’Alma, tel. 01 45 56 91 67 or 09 52 06 02 59, www.pariswebservices.com).
Bus Routes: For stop locations, see the “Rue Cler Hotels” map.
Line #69 runs east along Rue St. Dominique and serves Les Invalides, Orsay, Louvre, Marais, and Père Lachaise Cemetery (see Bus #69 Sightseeing Tour chapter).
Line #63 runs along the river (Quai d’Orsay), serving the Latin Quarter along Boulevard St. Germain to the east (ending at Gare de Lyon), and Trocadéro and areas near the Marmottan Museum to the west.
Line #92 runs along Avenue Bosquet, north to the Champs-Elysées and Arc de Triomphe (faster than the Métro) and south to the Montparnasse Tower and Gare Montparnasse.
Line #87 runs from Avenue Joseph Bouvard in the Champ de Mars park up Avenue de la Bourdonnais and serves the Sèvres-Babylone/St. Germain shopping area, St. Sulpice Church, Luxembourg Garden, the Bastille, and Gare de Lyon (more convenient than Métro for these destinations).
Line #80 runs on Avenue Bosquet, crosses the Champs-Elysées, stops near the Jacquemart-André Museum, and serves Gare St. Lazare.
Line #28 runs on Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg and serves Gare St. Lazare.
Line #42 runs from Avenue Joseph Bouvard in the Champ de Mars park (same stop as #87), crosses the Champs-Elysées at the Rond-Point, then heads to Place de la Concorde, Place de la Madeleine, Opéra Garnier, and finally to Gare du Nord—a long ride to the train station but less tiring than the Métro if you’re carrying suitcases.
Taxi: You’ll find taxi stands just off Place L’Ecole Militaire and near the intersection of Avenue Bosquet and Rue de Grenelle.
Many of my readers stay in the Rue Cler neighborhood. If you want to disappear into Paris, choose a hotel elsewhere. The following hotels are within Camembert-smelling distance of Rue Cler.
$$$$ Hôtel Bosquet*** is an exceptionally good hotel in an ideal location, with comfortable public spaces and well-configured rooms that are large by local standards and feature effective darkness blinds. The staff are politely formal (RS% but check their Facebook or Instagram pages for other discounts, good but pricey breakfast buffet with eggs and sausage, 19 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 47 05 25 45, www.hotel-paris-bosquet.com, hotel@relaisbosquet.com).
$$$$ Hôtel du Cadran,*** a well-located boule toss from Rue Cler, is over-the-top modern for my taste. I prefer their nearby annex, described next (RS% includes big breakfast—use code “RICK” on their website; 10 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 40 62 67 00, www.cadranhotel.com, resa@cadranhotel.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Valadon*** is an annex of Hôtel du Cadran, which is almost across the street (it’s also where you’ll check in and, if you want, have breakfast). The Valadon’s 12 cute-and-quiet rooms are larger than those at the Cadran, with the same comfort, prices, and discounts (family rooms, 16 Rue Valadon, tel. 01 47 53 89 85, www.hotelvaladon.com, info@hotelvaladon.com).
$$$$ Cler Hotel*** is a smart boutique hotel with appealing decor, a small outdoor patio, and a great location right on Rue Cler (RS%, 24 bis Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 00 18 06, www.clerhotel.com, contact@clerhotel.com).
$$$ Hôtel de la Motte Picquet,*** at the corner of Rue Cler and Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, is an intimate and modest little place with 16 compact yet comfortable rooms. The terrific staff make staying here a pleasure (RS%—use code STEVE-SMITH, family rooms, good breakfast served in a miniscule breakfast room, 30 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 47 05 09 57, www.hotelmottepicquetparis.com, book@hotelmottepicquetparis.com).
$$$ Grand Hôtel Lévêque,*** ideally situated on Rue Cler, is all about location. It’s a busy place with a sliver of an elevator and thin walls (noise can be an issue, especially in rooms facing the street). Though the rooms are sufficiently comfortable, the place feels in need of some TLC. Still, the location makes it a reasonable value (29 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 49 15, www.hotel-leveque.com, info@hotel-leveque.com).
$$ Hôtel du Champ de Mars*** is a top choice, brilliantly located barely 10 steps off Rue Cler. This plush little hotel has a small-town feel from top to bottom. The adorable rooms are snug but lovingly kept by hands-on owners Françoise and Stéphane, and single rooms can work as tiny doubles. It’s popular, so book well ahead (no air-con, 30 yards off Rue Cler at 7 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 45 51 52 30, www.hotelduchampdemars.com, reservation@hotelduchampdemars.com).
$$ Hôtel Beaugency*** has 30 smallish rooms and a lobby that you can stretch out in. It’s a fair value on a quieter street a short block off Rue Cler (RS%, 21 Rue Duvivier, tel. 01 47 05 01 63, www.hotel-beaugency.com, infos@hotel-beaugency.com).
These listings are a five-minute walk from Rue Cler, near the Ecole Militaire Métro stop or RER: Pont de l’Alma.
$$$$ Hôtel la Bourdonnais,**** near the Champ de Mars park, is an upscale and tastefully designed place with comfy public spaces and rooms that blend modern and traditional accents. It’s run well, with American-style service (elaborate breakfast—free for Rick Steves readers, 113 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 45 42, www.labourdonnais.com, labourdonnais@inwood-hotels.com). Two sister hotels in the neighborhood—owned by the same company as Hôtel la Bourdonnais—are worth considering, particularly if you can get a deal: Hôtel Walt (very modern) and Hôtel Tourville (more traditional). All three are top-quality, four-star places in terrific locations (www.inwood-hotels.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Duquesne Eiffel,*** a few blocks farther from the action, is handsome and hospitable with a helpful staff. It features a welcoming lobby, comfortable rooms (some with terrific Eiffel Tower views), and connecting rooms that work well for families (RS%, big, hot breakfast—free for Rick Steves readers, 23 Avenue Duquesne, tel. 01 44 42 09 09, www.hde.fr, contact@hde.fr).
$$$ Hôtel de France Invalides** is a fair midrange option run by a brother-sister team (Alain and Marie-Hélène). It has contemporary decor and 60 rooms, some with knockout views of Invalides’ golden dome (but with some traffic noise). Rooms on the courtyard are quieter, smaller, and cheaper (RS%, connecting rooms possible, good breakfast—free for Rick Steves readers, no air-con, 102 Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg, tel. 01 47 05 40 49, www.hoteldefrance.com, contact@hoteldefrance.com).
$$$ Hôtel Royal Phare*** faces the busy Ecole Militaire Métro stop. It’s a small place with sharp, well-configured rooms. Courtyard rooms are quieter, but those from the fifth floor up have peekaboo views of the Eiffel Tower (fridges in rooms, 40 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 47 05 57 30, www.hotel-royalphare-paris.com, hotel-royalphare@wanadoo.fr, friendly manager Hocin).
$$$ Hôtel Eiffel Turenne*** is a reasonable bet with good rooms (20 Avenue de Tourville, tel. 01 47 05 99 92, www.hoteleiffelturenne.com, reservation@hoteleiffelturenne.com).
$$$ Hôtel Eber Mars,** a few steps from Champ de Mars park, has comfortable, bigger-than-average rooms, an I-try-harder owner (Monsieur Eber), and a very narrow elevator (free breakfast for Rick Steves readers who book directly, 117 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 42 30, www.hotelebermars.com, reservation@hotelebermars.com).
$$ Hôtel Prince,** across from the Ecole Militaire Métro stop, has a spartan lobby and drab halls, but offers good rooms for the price (66 Avenue Bosquet, tel. 01 47 05 40 90, www.hotel-paris-prince.com, paris@hotelprinceparis.com).
$$$$ Hôtel de Londres Eiffel*** is my closest listing to the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de Mars park. Here you get immaculate, warmly decorated, but tight rooms (several are connecting for families), comfy public spaces, and a service-oriented staff. It’s less convenient to the Métro (10-minute walk), but very handy to buses #69, #80, #87, and #92, and to RER-C: Pont de l’Alma (some Eiffel Tower view rooms, 1 Rue Augereau, tel. 01 45 51 63 02, www.hotel-paris-londres-eiffel.com, info@londres-eiffel.com, helpful Cédric and Arnaud). The owners also run a good two-star hotel with similar comfort in the cheaper Montparnasse area: $$ Hôtel Apollon Montparnasse** (look for Web deals, 91 Rue de l’Ouest, Mo: Pernety, tel. 01 43 95 62 00, www.paris-hotel-paris.net, info@apollon-montparnasse.com).
$$ Hôtel Le Pavillon*** attracts attention with its romantic setting away from the street. Rooms are gray-toned and a tad mod, the comfy breakfast room doubles as a lounge, and the small patio with outdoor tables offers a peaceful refuge (several loft triples, 54 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 51 42 87, www.hotel-lepavillon.com, lepavillon@green-spirit-hotels.com).
$$ Hôtel de la Tour Eiffel** is a terrific value on a quiet street near several of my favorite restaurants. The rooms are well-designed and comfortable with air-conditioning (but no breakfast). The six sets of connecting rooms are ideal for families (17 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 14 75, www.hotel-toureiffel.com, hte7@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Hôtel Kensington** is a fair budget value close to the Eiffel Tower and run by formal Daniele. It’s an unpretentious place offering classic two-star comfort (RS%, some partial Eiffel Tower views, no air-con but ceiling fans, 79 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 74 00, www.hotel-kensington.com, hk@hotel-kensington.com).
These listings are within three blocks of the intersection of Avenue de la Motte-Picquet and Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg.
$$$$ Hôtel de Latour-Maubourg*** boasts a peaceful manor-home setting with 17 plush, relatively large, and très traditional rooms (across from the Métro station at 160 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 47 05 16 16, www.latourmaubourg.com, info@latourmaubourg.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Les Jardins d’Eiffel*** is a big place on a quiet street, with professional service, a peaceful patio, and a lobby you can stretch out in. The 81 well-configured rooms—some with partial Eiffel Tower views, some with balconies—offer a bit more space and quiet than other hotels (RS%, parking garage, 8 Rue Amélie, tel. 01 47 05 46 21, www.hoteljardinseiffel.com, reservations@hoteljardinseiffel.com).
$$$ Hôtel Muguet*** is quiet, well-located, well-run, and reasonable, with tastefully appointed rooms (some view rooms, strict 7-day cancellation policy, 11 Rue Chevert, tel. 01 47 05 05 93, www.hotelparismuguet.com, contact@hotelparismuguet.com).
$$$ Hôtel de l’Empereur*** is stylish and delivers smashing views of Invalides from many of its fine rooms. All rooms have queen- or king-size beds, are tastefully designed with hints of the emperor, and are large by Paris standards (some view rooms, family rooms, strict 7-day cancellation policy, tel. 01 45 55 88 02, www.hotelempereurparis.com, contact@hotelempereur.com).
Those interested in a more central, diverse, and lively urban locale should make the Marais their Parisian home. Once a forgotten Parisian backwater, the Marais—which runs from the Pompidou Center east to the Bastille (a 15-minute walk)—is now one of Paris’ most popular residential, tourist, and shopping areas. This is jumbled, medieval Paris at its finest, where classy stone mansions sit alongside trendy bars, antique shops, and fashion-conscious boutiques. The streets are an intriguing parade of artists, students, tourists, immigrants, and baguette-munching babies in strollers. The Marais is also known as a hub of the Parisian gay and lesbian scene. This area is sans doubt livelier and edgier than the Rue Cler area.
In the Marais you have these major sights close at hand: Carnavalet Museum (closed for renovation through 2017 and beyond), Victor Hugo’s House, Jewish Art and History Museum, Pompidou Center, and Picasso Museum. You’re also a manageable walk from Paris’ two islands (Ile St. Louis and Ile de la Cité), home to Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. The Opéra Bastille, Promenade Plantée park, Place des Vosges (Paris’ oldest square), the Jewish Quarter (Rue des Rosiers), the Latin Quarter, and nightlife-packed Rue de Lappe are also walkable. Strolling home (day or night) from Notre-Dame along Ile St. Louis is marvelous.
Most of my recommended hotels are located a few blocks north of the Marais’ main east-west drag, Rue St. Antoine/Rue de Rivoli. For those who prefer a quieter home with fewer tourists, I list several hotels in the northern limits of the Marais, near Rue de Bretagne, the appealing commercial spine of this area.
Tourist Information: The nearest TI is at the Pyramides Métro station (daily May-Oct 9:00-19:00, Nov-April 10:00-19:00, 25 Rue des Pyramides).
Services: Most banks and other services are on Rue de Rivoli, which becomes Rue St. Antoine as it heads east. Marais post offices are on Rue Castex and at the corner of Rue Pavée and Rue des Francs-Bourgeois. A busy SNCF Boutique is just off Rue St. Antoine at 2 Rue de Turenne (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:30, Sat 10:00-20:30, closed Sun); a quieter SNCF Boutique is nearer to Gare de Lyon at 5 Rue de Lyon (Mon-Sat 8:30-18:00, closed Sun). An English-language bookstore called I Love My Blender is located at 36 Rue du Temple (closed Sun-Mon).
Markets and Shopping: The Marais has three good farmers markets. These include the sprawling Marché de la Bastille, along Boulevard Richard Lenoir, on the north side of Place de la Bastille (Thu and Sun until 14:30, Mo: Bastille); the Marché d’Aligre on Place d’Aligre (Tue-Sun 9:00-13:30, closed Mon, Mo: Ledru-Rollin); and Paris’ oldest covered market, the Marché des Enfants Rouges, at 39 Rue de Bretagne, a 10-minute walk north of Rue de Rivoli (Mo: Filles du Calvaire or Temple). A Monoprix with a basement grocery is near the St-Paul Métro stop (Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, closed Sun, 62 Rue St. Antoine). To shop at a Parisian Sears, find the BHV department store next to Hôtel de Ville.
Laundry: Launderettes are scattered throughout the Marais; ask your hotelier for the nearest. Here are two that you can count on: on Impasse Guéménée (north of Rue St. Antoine), and on Rue du Petit Musc (south of Rue St. Antoine).
Métro Connections: Key Métro stops in the Marais are, from east to west: Bastille, St-Paul, and Hôtel de Ville (Sully-Morland, Pont Marie, and Rambuteau stops are also handy). Métro connections are excellent, with direct service to the Louvre, Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, and La Défense (all on line 1); the Rue Cler area, Place de la Madeleine (see “Boutique Strolls,” here), and Opéra Garnier/Galeries Lafayette (line 8 from Bastille stop); and four major train stations: Gare de Lyon, Gare du Nord, Gare de l’Est, and Gare d’Austerlitz (all accessible from Bastille stop).
Bus Routes: For stop locations, see the “Marais Hotels” map.
Line #69 on Rue St. Antoine takes you eastbound to Père Lachaise Cemetery and westbound to the Louvre, Orsay, and Rodin museums, plus the Army Museum, ending at the Eiffel Tower (see the Bus #69 Sightseeing Tour chapter).
Line #87 runs down Boulevard Henri IV, crossing Ile St. Louis and serving the Latin Quarter along Boulevard St. Germain, before heading to St. Sulpice Church/Luxembourg Garden, the Eiffel Tower, and the Rue Cler neighborhood to the west. The same line, running in the opposite direction, brings you to Gare de Lyon.
Line #96 runs on Rues Turenne and Rivoli, serves Ile de la Cité and St. Sulpice Church (near Luxembourg Garden), and ends at Gare Montparnasse.
Line #65 runs from Gare de Lyon up Rue de Lyon, around Place de la Bastille, and then up Boulevard Beaumarchais to Gare de l’Est and Gare du Nord.
Line #67 runs from Place d’Italie to the Jardin des Plantes (just south of the Seine), across Ile St. Louis, and then along Rue de Rivoli, past the Louvre, and up to Montmartre.
(3rd and 4th arrond., Mo: Bastille, St-Paul, or Hôtel de Ville)
$$$$ Hôtel le Pavillon de la Reine,***** 15 steps off the beautiful Place des Vosges, merits its stars with top service and comfort and exquisite attention to detail, from its melt-in-your-couch lobby to its luxurious rooms (free access to spa and fitness room, loaner bikes, parking, 28 Place des Vosges, tel. 01 40 29 19 19, www.pavillon-de-la-reine.com, contact@pavillon-de-la-reine.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Bastille Spéria*** is situated a short block off Place de la Bastille, offering business-type service and good comfort in a happening location. The 42 well-configured rooms are relatively spacious, simply appointed, and fairly priced (1 Rue de la Bastille, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 42 72 04 01, www.hotelsperia.com, info@hotelsperia.com).
$$$$ Hôtel St. Louis Marais*** is an intimate and sharp little hotel that sits on a quiet street a few blocks from the river. The handsome rooms have character...and spacious bathrooms (family rooms, 1 Rue Charles V, Mo: Sully-Morland, tel. 01 48 87 87 04, www.saintlouismarais.com, marais@saintlouis-hotels.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc,*** a lovely if pricey hotel with thoughtfully appointed rooms, is ideally located for connoisseurs of the Marais who don’t need air-conditioning. Corner rooms are wonderfully bright in the City of Light. Rooms on the street can be noisy until the bars close (family rooms, some view rooms, 3 Rue de Jarente, Mo: St-Paul, tel. 01 48 87 62 11, www.hoteljeannedarc.com, information@hoteljeannedarc.com).
$$$ Hôtel Castex*** is a well-located place—on a quiet street near Place de la Bastille—with narrow and tile-floored rooms. Their system of connecting rooms allows families total privacy between two rooms, each with its own bathroom (free buffet breakfast for Rick Steves readers, just off Place de la Bastille and Rue St. Antoine at 5 Rue Castex, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 42 72 31 52, www.castexhotel.com, info@castexhotel.com).
$$$ Hôtel de Neuve*** is a small, dignified place with classical music in the lobby and high tea in the afternoon. Rooms are plush, quiet, and a good value in this pricey area (behind the Monoprix at 14 Rue de Neuve, Mo: St-Paul, tel. 01 44 59 28 50, www.hoteldeneuveparis.com, reservation@hoteldeneuveparis.com.)
$$ Hôtel Pratic, just off the quiet and charming Place du Marché Ste. Catherine, works for budget travelers who don’t mind squeezing sideways to make it past the bed into the bathroom. The half-timbered interior gives the lobby a trace of character, but also makes for dark hallways. Rooms are clean, but lack charm (some view rooms, no elevator, no air-con, 9 Rue d’Ormesson, tel. 01 48 87 80 47, www.pratichotelparis.com, pratic.hotel@wanadoo.fr).
$ Sully Hôtel, right on Rue St. Antoine, is a basic, cheap dive run by no-nonsense Monsieur Zeroual. The rooms are frumpy, dimly lit, and can smell of smoke, the entry is dark and narrow (need I say more?), but the price fits. Two can spring for a triple for more room (family rooms, no elevator, no air-con, 48 Rue St. Antoine, Mo: St-Paul, tel. 01 42 78 49 32, www.sullyhotelparis.com, sullyhotel@orange.fr).
¢ MIJE Youth Hostels: The Maison Internationale de la Jeunesse et des Etudiants (MIJE) runs three classy, old residences, ideal for budget travelers who are at least 18 years old or traveling with someone who is. Each is well-maintained, with simple, clean, single-sex (unless your group takes a whole room) one- to four-bed rooms. The hostels are MIJE Fourcy (biggest and loudest, dirt-cheap dinners available with a membership card, 6 Rue de Fourcy, just south of Rue de Rivoli), MIJE Fauconnier (no elevator, 11 Rue du Fauconnier), and MIJE Maubisson (smallest and quietest, no outdoor terrace, 12 Rue des Barres). None has double beds or air-conditioning, all have private showers in every room—but bring your own towel (includes breakfast, required membership card-€2.50 extra/person, Wi-Fi in common areas only, rooms locked 12:00-15:00). They all share the same contact information (tel. 01 42 74 23 45, www.mije.com, info@mije.com) and Métro stop (St-Paul). Show up by noon or call to confirm a later arrival time.
(11th arrond., Mo: Bastille or Bréguet–Sabin)
These cheaper hotels are located a 10-minute walk from Place des Vosges.
$$$ Hôtel Ibis Paris Bastille Opéra*** is well-run and massive, with 300 reasonably priced, modern, comfortable rooms and a lobby with guest computers and room to roam. Amenities include an economical restaurant and private parking (15 Rue Breguet, Mo: Bréguet–Sabin, tel. 01 49 29 20 20, www.ibishotel.com, H1399@accor.com).
$$ Hôtel Daval,** a simple place on the wild side of Place de la Bastille, is handy for night owls. The 23 rooms are small, modest, and clean, with bathrooms like ship cabins, but the rates are good for an air-conditioned place. Ask for a quieter room on the courtyard side (family rooms, 21 Rue Daval, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 47 00 51 23, www.hoteldaval.com, hoteldaval@wanadoo.fr).
(4th arrond., Mo: St-Paul, Hôtel de Ville, or Rambuteau)
These hotels are farther west, closer to the Pompidou Center than to Place de la Bastille.
$$$$ Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais*** transports you to the 18th century, with a small lobby that’s cluttered with bits from an elegant old Marais house. If you want traditional French decor, stay here. Located on a busy street, it is well cared for and filled with character (12 Rue Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 34 12, www.carondebeaumarchais.com, hotel@carondebeaumarchais.com).
$$$ Hôtel de la Bretonnerie*** makes a fine Marais home. Located three blocks from the Hôtel de Ville, it has a warm, welcoming lobby and helpful staff. Its 29 good-value rooms are on the larger side with an antique, open-beam warmth (family rooms, free breakfast for Rick Steves readers who book directly, no air-con, between Rue Vieille du Temple and Rue des Archives at 22 Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, tel. 01 48 87 77 63, www.hotelparismaraisbretonnerie.com, hotel@bretonnerie.com).
$$$ Hôtel Beaubourg*** is a terrific three-star value on a small street in the shadow of the Pompidou Center. The lounge is inviting, and the 28 plush and traditional rooms are well-appointed and quiet (bigger doubles are worth the extra cost, 11 Rue Simon Le Franc, Mo: Rambuteau, tel. 01 42 74 34 24, www.hotelbeaubourg.com, reservation@hotelbeaubourg.com).
$$ Hôtel de Nice,*** on the Marais’ busy main drag, features a turquoise-and-fuchsia “Marie-Antoinette-does-tie-dye” decor. This character-filled place is littered with paintings and layered with carpets, and its 23 Old World rooms have thoughtful touches. Rooms on the street come with some noise; bathrooms are tight (reception on second floor, 42 bis Rue de Rivoli, tel. 01 42 78 55 29, www.hoteldenice.com, contact@hoteldenice.com).
$$ Hôtel du Loiret*** feels like the budget place it is when you walk in, but the rooms are surprisingly sharp—though bathrooms are small, and the service lacks a certain je ne sais quoi (no air-con, expect some noise, 8 Rue des Mauvais Garçons, tel. 01 48 87 77 00, www.hotel-du-loiret.fr, hotelduloiret@hotmail.com).
$$ D’Win Hôtel** is a rare two-star value in the thick of the Marais, with 40 updated and relatively spacious rooms, no elevator, and red accents everywhere (family rooms, 20 Rue du Temple, tel. 01 44 54 05 05, www.dwinhotel.com, contact@dwinhotel.com).
(3rd arrond., Mo: Filles du Calvaire or Temple)
Called the Haute (upper) Marais, this part of town attracts those wanting easy access to the heart of the Marais and a quieter neighborhood with a more local vibe. Appealing Rue de Bretagne is the soul of this area, with broad sidewalks, a healthy dose of cafés and shops, plus the lively Marché des Enfants Rouges market area. Allow 15 minutes to walk from these hotels to the Marais’ main drag, Rue St. Antoine. The hotels themselves are all within a short walk of Rue de Bretagne.
$$$ Hôtel du Vieux Saule,*** well located across from the Marché des Enfants Rouges, offers 26 simple rooms in a good location at fair rates (smoking allowed in rooms on third floor, small sauna free for guests, 6 Rue de Picardie, Mo: Filles du Calvaire or Temple, tel. 01 42 72 01 14, www.hotelvieuxsaule.com, reserv@hotelvieuxsaule.com).
$$$ Hôtel Saintonge*** is a tastefully decorated and well-maintained place with wooden beams and stone floors (16 Rue de Saintonge, Mo: Filles du Calvaire, tel. 01 42 77 91 13, www.saintlouissaintonge.com, saintonge@saintlouis-hotels.com).
(4th arrond., Mo: Pont Marie)
The peaceful, residential character of this river-wrapped island, with its brilliant location and homemade ice cream, has drawn Americans for decades. There are no budget deals here—all of the hotels are three-star or more—though prices are respectable considering the level of comfort and wonderful location. The island’s village ambience and proximity to the Marais, Notre-Dame, and the Latin Quarter make this area well worth considering. All of the following hotels are on the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, where I list several restaurants (see here in the Eating in Paris chapter). For nearby services, see the Marais neighborhood section; for locations, see the “Marais Hotels” map on here. There are no Métro stops on Ile St. Louis; expect a 10-minute walk to the closest stations.
$$$$ Hôtel du Jeu de Paume**** occupies a 17th-century tennis center. Its magnificent lobby and cozy public spaces make it a fine splurge. Greet Lemon (luh-moe), le chien, then take a spin in the glass elevator for a half-timbered treehouse experience. The 30 rooms are carefully designed and tasteful, though not particularly spacious (you’re paying for the location and public areas). Most rooms face a small garden courtyard; all are pin-drop peaceful (apartments for 4-6 people, 54 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 26 14 18, www.jeudepaumehotel.com, info@jeudepaumehotel.com).
$$$$ Hôtel de Lutèce*** comes with a welcoming wood-paneled lobby and a real fireplace. Rooms are traditional and warm, and those on lower floors have high ceilings. Twin rooms are larger and the same price as doubles; most beds are doubles (no queens). Rooms with bathtubs are on the louder street-side, while those with showers are on the courtyard (65 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 26 23 52, www.hoteldelutece.com, info@hoteldelutece.com).
$$$$ Hôtel des Deux-Iles*** has the same owners, comfort, and prices as the Lutèce (listed above)—but a tad less personality (single rooms available, 59 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 26 13 35, www.hoteldesdeuxiles.com, info@hoteldesdeuxiles.com).
$$$ Hôtel Saint-Louis*** blends character with modern comforts. The sharp rooms come with cool stone floors and exposed beams. Rates are reasonable...for the location (some rooms with balcony, iPads available for guest use, 75 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 34 04 80, www.hotelsaintlouis.com, isle@saintlouis-hotels.com).
This neighborhood revolves around Paris’ loveliest park and offers quick access to the city’s best shopping streets and grandest café-hopping. Hotels in this central area run the gamut from cheap sleeps to pricey boutique places. Sleeping in the Luxembourg area offers a true Left Bank experience without a hint of the low-end commotion of the nearby Latin Quarter tourist ghetto. The Luxembourg Garden, Boulevard St. Germain, Cluny Museum, and Latin Quarter are all at your doorstep, and Place St. Michel is a 15-minute walk away. Here you get the best of both worlds: youthful Left Bank energy and the classic trappings that surround the monumental Panthéon and St. Sulpice Church.
Having the Luxembourg Garden as your backyard allows strolls through meticulously cared-for flowers, a great kids’ play area (see the Paris with Children chapter), and a purifying escape from city traffic. Place St. Sulpice presents an elegant, pedestrian-friendly square and quick access to some of Paris’ best boutiques (see the Shopping in Paris chapter). You’re near several movie theaters (at Métro stop: Odéon), as well as lively cafés on Boulevard St. Germain, Rue de Buci, Rue des Canettes, Place de la Sorbonne, and Place de la Contrescarpe, all of which buzz with action until late.
It takes only about 15 minutes to walk from one end of this neighborhood to the other. Most hotels are within a five-minute walk of the Luxembourg Garden.
Services: The nearest TI is across the river at the Pyramides Métro station (daily May-Oct 9:00-19:00, Nov-April 10:00-19:00, 25 Rue des Pyramides). There are two useful SNCF Boutiques nearby, at 79 Rue de Rennes (Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, closed Sun) and at 54 Boulevard St. Michel (Mon-Fri 8:15-19:45, Sat 10:00-18:00, closed Sun).
• Pass oodles of time at Luxembourg Garden, sitting in a green chair with your feet propped up on the pond’s edge.
• Join the locals at the only café on Place St. Sulpice for a morning coffee or afternoon drink.
• Stroll Rue Mouffetard day or night, and stop for a drink on Place de la Contrescarpe.
• Window shop the boutiques between Sèvres-Babylone and St. Sulpice (described on here).
• Spend too much for a coffee at a grand café and watch the world go by (see “Les Grands Cafés de Paris,” here).
• Follow my Left Bank Walk (see here) and find Voltaire’s favorite café (Café le Procope, now a restaurant—see here).
• Ponder France’s history in the Panthéon (see here).
Markets: The colorful street market at the south end of Rue Mouffetard is a worthwhile 10- to 15-minute walk from these hotels (Tue-Sat 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-13:00, closed Mon, five blocks south of Place de la Contrescarpe, Mo: Place Monge).
Bookstore: San Francisco Book Company has a full selection of secondhand English-language books, including mine (Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 14:00-19:30, 17 Rue Monsieur le Prince, tel. 01 43 29 15 70).
Métro Connections: Métro lines 10 and 4 serve this area (10 connects to the Austerlitz train station, and 4 runs to the Montparnasse, Est, and Nord train stations). Neighborhood stops are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Mabillon, Odéon, and St. Sulpice. RER-B (Luxembourg station is handiest) provides direct service to Charles de Gaulle airport and Gare du Nord trains, and access to Orly airport via the Orlybus (transfer at Denfert-Rochereau) or via Orlyval trains (transfer at Antony RER station).
Bus Routes: For stop locations, see the “Hotels near Luxembourg Garden” map on here.
Lines #86 and #87 run eastbound through this area on or near Boulevard St. Germain, to the Marais (#87 continues to Gare de Lyon). They run westbound along Rue des Ecoles, stopping on Place St. Sulpice (#87 continues to the Rue Cler area).
Line #63 provides a direct connection along Boulevard St. Germain west to the Rue Cler area, serving the Orsay and Marmottan museums along the way, and east to Gare de Lyon.
Line #96 stops at Place St. Sulpice southbound en route to Gare Montparnasse and runs north along Rue de Rennes and Boulevard St. Germain into the Marais.
Line #70 runs along Rue de Sèvres, connecting Sèvres-Babylone and St. Sulpice with the Pompidou Center and the Hôtel de Ville.
Taxi: A taxi stand is near Place Pigalle, along Boulevard de Clichy.
(6th arrond., Mo: St. Sulpice, Rennes, Sèvres-Babylone, Mabillon, Odéon, or Saint-Germain-des-Prés; RER: Luxembourg)
These hotels are all within a block of St. Sulpice Church and two blocks from famous Boulevard St. Germain. This is nirvana for boutique-minded shoppers—and you’ll pay extra for the location.
$$$$ Hôtel de l’Abbaye**** is a lovely refuge just west of Luxembourg Garden; it’s a find for well-heeled connoisseurs of this area. The hotel’s four-star luxury includes refined lounges inside and out, with 44 sumptuous rooms and every amenity (apartments, includes breakfast, 10 Rue Cassette, tel. 01 45 44 38 11, www.hotelabbayeparis.com, hotel.abbaye@wanadoo.fr).
$$$$ Hôtel le Récamier,**** romantically tucked in the corner of Place St. Sulpice, is a polished place with designer public spaces, elaborately appointed rooms, a courtyard tea salon serving guests complimentary tea and treats in the afternoon, and top-notch professional service (connecting family rooms, 3 bis Place St. Sulpice, tel. 01 43 26 04 89, www.hotelrecamier.com, contact@hotelrecamier.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Relais St. Sulpice,*** burrowed on the small street just behind St. Sulpice Church, is a high-priced boutique hotel with a cozy lounge and 26 stylish rooms, most surrounding a leafy glass atrium. Street-facing rooms get more light and are worth requesting (sauna free for guests, 3 Rue Garancière, tel. 01 46 33 99 00, www.relais-saint-sulpice.com, relaisstsulpice@wanadoo.fr).
$$$$ Hôtel la Perle*** is a spendy place in the thick of the lively Rue des Canettes, a block off Place St. Sulpice. This modern business-class hotel is built around a central bar and atrium but lacks character (luxury apartment, 14 Rue des Canettes, tel. 01 43 29 10 10, www.hotellaperle.com, booking@hotellaperle.com).
$$$ Hôtel Bonaparte*** is an unpretentious and welcoming place wedged between boutiques, a few steps from Place St. Sulpice. The simple, recently refurbished decor highlights the beauty of this traditional building (61 Rue Bonaparte, tel. 01 43 26 97 37, www.hotelbonaparte.fr, reservation@hotelbonaparte.fr; helpful Eric, Fréderic, and owner Olivier at reception).
(6th and 7th arrond., Mo: Sèvres-Babylone or St. Sulpice)
$$$$ Hôtel Signature St. Germain-des-Prés,*** on a quiet street just steps from the trendy Sèvres-Babylone shopping area, feels as chic as its neighboring boutiques. Young owner Delphine takes great care of her guests with 26 colorful and tastefully decorated rooms, several with balconies. There are good rooms for families and some wonderfully large “prestige” rooms (5 Rue Chomel, Mo: Sèvres-Babylone, tel. 01 45 48 35 53, www.signature-saintgermain.com, info@signature-saintgermain.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Le Petit Chomel*** sits a few doors down, offering the same great location and comfort, warm public spaces, and traditional country-French decor (15 Rue Chomel, tel. 01 45 48 55 52, www.lepetitchomel.com, info@lepetitchomel.com).
$$ Hôtel Jean Bart** feels like it’s from another era—prices included. Run by smiling Madame Lechopier and her family, it’s a rare budget find in this neighborhood, one block from Luxembourg Garden. Beyond the dark lobby, you’ll find 33 suitably comfortable rooms with creaking floors and tight bathrooms (includes breakfast, no air-con, 9 Rue Jean-Bart, tel. 01 45 48 29 13, www.hotel-jean-bart.fr, hotel.jean.bart@gmail.com).
(6th arrond., Mo: Odéon, Cluny-La Sorbonne, or Mabillon; RER: Luxembourg)
The first hotel is between the Odéon Métro stop and Luxembourg Garden, and may have rooms when others don’t. Hôtel Dauphine St. Germain is closer to the Seine.
$$$$ Hôtel Relais Médicis*** is ideal if you’ve always wanted to live in a Monet painting and can afford it. A glassy entry hides 17 rooms surrounding a fragrant little garden courtyard and fountain, giving you a countryside break fit for a Medici in the heart of Paris. This delightful refuge is tastefully decorated with floral Old World charm and permeated with thoughtfulness (family rooms, includes continental breakfast, faces the Odéon Theater at 5 Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 43 26 00 60, www.relaismedicis.com, reservation@relaismedicis.com).
$$$ Hôtel Dauphine St. Germain*** delivers all the comforts you need in a killer location between the river and Boulevard St. Germain (36 Rue Dauphine, tel. 01 43 26 74 34, www.dauphine-st-germain.com, hotel@dauphine-st-germain.com).
$$ Hôtel Michelet Odéon** sits in a corner of Place de l’Odéon with big windows overlooking the square. Rooms come with stylish colors but no frills (family rooms, no air-con, 6 Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 53 10 05 60, www.hotelmicheletodeon.com, hotel@micheletodeon.com).
(5th arrond., Mo: Cardinal Lemoine, Place Monge, Jussieu, or Cluny-La Sorbonne; RER: Luxembourg)
$$ Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles*** is idyllic. A private cobbled lane leads to three buildings that protect a flower-filled garden courtyard, preserving a sense of tranquility rare in this city. Its 51 rooms are French-countryside pretty, reasonably spacious, and lovingly cared for by your host, Marie. This romantic spot is deservedly popular; book ahead (no TVs or air-con but no street noise, pricey pay parking, 75 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Mo: Cardinal Lemoine, tel. 01 43 26 79 23, www.hotel-grandes-ecoles.com, hotel.grandes.ecoles@free.fr).
$$ Hôtel des 3 Collèges** greets clients with a bright lobby, narrow hallways, and plain rooms. Rates are fair, and the smiling staff is eager to please (16 Rue Cujas, tel. 01 43 54 67 30, www.3colleges.fr, hotel@3colleges.fr@3colleges.fr).
$$ Hôtel Cujas Panthéon** gives boring, standard two-star comfort at affordable prices (Db-€130-155, 18 Rue Cujas, tel. 01 43 54 58 10, www.cujas-pantheon-paris-hotel.com, cujaspantheon@gmail.com).
$ Hôtel Cluny Sorbonne** is a basic budget place located in the thick of things across from the famous university and below the Panthéon. Rooms are well-worn, with thin walls (no air-con, 8 Rue Victor Cousin, tel. 01 43 54 66 66, www.hotel-cluny.fr, cluny@club-internet.fr).
(5th arrond., RER: Luxembourg or Port-Royal)
$$$ Hôtel des Mines** is less central, but its good-size lobby and 50 well-maintained rooms make this a decent value. Avoid the fifth- and sixth-floor rooms, which lack double-glazed windows (family rooms, between Luxembourg and Port-Royal stations on the RER-B line, a 10-minute walk from Panthéon, one block past Luxembourg Garden at 125 Boulevard St. Michel, tel. 01 43 54 32 78, www.hoteldesminesparis.com, hotel@hoteldesminesparis.com).
(5th arrond., Mo: Censier Daubenton or Les Gobelins)
These accommodations, away from the Seine and other tourists, lie in an appealing and unpretentious area and offer more room for your euro. Rue Mouffetard is the bohemian soul of this area. Two thousand years ago, it was the principal Roman road south to Italy. Today, this small, meandering street has a split personality. The lower half thrives in the daytime as a pedestrian shopping street. The upper half sleeps during the day but comes alive after dark with a fun collection of restaurants and bars. A lively Saturday market sprawls along Boulevard Port Royal, just east of the Port Royal Métro stop.
$ Port-Royal-Hôtel* has only one star, but don’t let that fool you. Its 46 rooms are polished top to bottom and have been well-run by the same proud family for 80-plus years. You could eat off the floors of its spotless, comfy rooms...but you won’t find air-conditioning or a TV. Ask for a room away from the street (cheaper rooms with pay shower down the hall, cash only or wire transfer, on busy Boulevard de Port-Royal at #8, Mo: Les Gobelins, tel. 01 43 31 70 06, www.hotelportroyal.fr, portroyalhotel@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel de L’Espérance** is simply a terrific two-star value. It’s quiet and cushy, with soft rooms, canopy beds, and a welcoming lobby with a small bar (15 Rue Pascal, Mo: Censier Daubenton, tel. 01 47 07 10 99, www.hoteldelesperance.fr, hotel.esperance@wanadoo.fr).
¢ Young & Happy Hostel is easygoing and English-speaking, with kitchen facilities and basic hostel conditions. It sits dead-center in the Rue Mouffetard action...which can be good or bad (private rooms available, includes breakfast, no air-con, key deposit, 11:00-16:00 lockout but reception stays open and you can stash your bags, no curfew, 80 Rue Mouffetard, Mo: Place Monge, tel. 01 47 07 47 07, www.youngandhappy.fr, smile@youngandhappy.fr).
Those interested in a more SoHo/Greenwich Village-type locale should consider making Montmartre their Parisian home. While the top of Montmartre’s hill is terribly touristy, just below lies an overlooked workaday neighborhood happily living in the shadow of Sacré-Cœur.
Montmartre is a mix of young families, artists, and spritely senior citizens, and it is fast becoming popular with the bobo crowd (bourgeois bohemian, French for “hipster”). Travelers staying here trade a central location and level terrain for good deals on hotel rooms and a lively atmosphere, especially in the evenings when the terraces are full and tiny bars spill crowds onto the narrow streets. Expect some ups and downs here on Paris’ lone hill.
Most of the action is centered around Rue des Abbesses, starting at Place des Abbesses and stretching several blocks to Rue Lepic. Rue Lepic has good shops and services, but the lower you go the seedier it gets: Scammers and shady characters prowl the base of the hill after hours (along Boulevard Clichy and Boulevard Rochechouart, where you’ll find what’s left of Paris’ red light district). For fun nightlife, stick to the narrow streets uphill from Rue des Abbesses around Rue Durantin and along Rue des Trois Frères. For restaurant suggestions, see here.
Tourist Information: TI kiosks are located at the Anvers Métro stop (daily 10:00-18:00, 72 Boulevard Rochechouart) and on the top of the hill on Place du Tertre (daily 10:00-18:00, 21 Place du Tertre).
Services: Several ATMs are located along Rue des Abbesses and on Rue Lepic. You’ll find a post office on Place des Abbesses (to your left as you exit the Abbesses Métro stop).
Markets and Shopping: A Friday-evening farmers’ market reflects this working-class neighborhood’s shopping needs (15:00-20:00, Place d’Anvers). On Saturday mornings, one of Paris’ only organic markets takes place within reasonable walking distance (Marché des Batignolles, 9:00-15:00, 34 Boulevard des Batignolles). A Monoprix store is near the Blanche Métro stop on Boulevard de Clichy. Both Rue Lepic and Rue des Abbesses are peppered with épiceries, cheese shops, wine shops, delis, butchers, and bakeries.
Laundry: Handy self-service launderettes are located at 92 Rue des Martyrs and 44 Rue Veron.
Métro Connections: Métro line 12 is the handiest (use the Abbesses stop and take the elevator, as it’s a long climb to the exit). Line 2 uses the Blanche, Pigalle, or Anvers stops, but requires a four-block uphill walk to reach my recommended hotels. The Barbès Rochechouart Métro stop is also close by, but it should be avoided thanks to the number of young hooligans who hang out there.
Bus Routes: At the base of the hill are several good bus options, but there’s only one bus line on the hill itself—the Montmartrobus electric bus—which connects Pigalle, Abbesses, and Place du Tertre in 10 minutes (4/hour). For stop locations, see the “Hotels & Restaurants in Montmartre” map.
Line #67 (catch it next to the Pigalle Métro station) goes to the Louvre, along the Seine by the Marais, across Ile St. Louis, and eventually to the Jardin des Plantes.
Line #30 picks up on the north side of Boulevard Rochechouart (direction: Trocadéro) and goes past Parc Monceau and the Jacquemart-André Museum, to the top of the Champs-Elysées and around the Arc de Triomphe roundabout, to its final destination, the Trocadéro, across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower. Or, you could catch line #30 on the south side of Boulevard Rochechouart (direction: Gare de l’Est) and ride it directly to Gare de l’Est.
Taxi: A taxi stand is near the Pigalle Métro stop on the corner of Rue Houdon and busy Boulevard Rochechouart.
(18th arrond., Mo: Abbesses or Anvers)
$$$$ Le Relais Montmartre*** is a spotless hotel with cushy public spaces, pastel paint, and 26 cozy rooms sporting floral curtains. There are lots of guest-centered amenities, including a shared iPad, a fireplace, and a quiet central courtyard (6 Rue Constance, tel. 01 70 64 25 25, www.relaismontmartre.fr, contact@relaismontmartre.fr).
$$ Hôtel Regyn’s Montmartre** is located on the lively Abbesses square, with 22 small but comfortable-enough rooms and mediocre bathrooms. Rooms in the front come with pleasant views and noise from the square. Guests in fourth- and fifth-floor rooms can see all the way to the Eiffel Tower (no air-con, 18 Place des Abbesses, tel. 01 42 54 45 21, www.hotel-regyns-paris.com, resa@hotel-regyns-montmartre.net).
$$ Hotel Basss offers snappy modern rooms with splashes of color and trendy furniture. Guests are invited to lounge in the lobby with free coffee and treats in the afternoon (57 Rue des Abbesses, tel. 01 42 51 50 00, www.hotel-basss.com, contact@hotel-basss.com).
$ Hôtel Bonséjour Montmartre, run by eager Michel and his family, was old and worn, but it’s slowly modernizing. Most rooms now come with toilets, showers, and new beds; the remaining (cheaper) ones maintain the Old World tradition of shared facilities. Request an upgraded room, especially one with a balcony (RS%, includes breakfast, no air-con, 11 Rue Burq, tel. 01 42 54 22 53, www.hotel-bonsejour-montmartre.fr, hotel-bonsejour-montmartre@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel André Gill** is a family affair. The hallways and elevator are alarmingly dark and narrow, but the rooms are bright and clean (some view rooms, 4 Rue André Gill, tel. 01 42 62 48 48, andregill@hotmail.fr).
¢ Plug-Inn Boutique Hostel is part hotel and part hostel, but with a hotel vibe. A half-block off Rue des Abbesses, it has a young, loud clientele and bathrooms in all 30 rooms. Early arrivals can leave their luggage and take a shower (private rooms available, includes breakfast, 24-hour front desk staff, no curfew, 7 Rue Aristide Bruant, tel. 01 42 58 42 58, www.plug-inn.fr, bonjour@plug-inn.fr).
¢ The Vintage Hostel & Budget Hotel sits halfway between the hill of Montmartre and Gare du Nord (both destinations are a 10-minute walk away). This hostel-hotel hybrid appeals to youngsters and oldsters alike. Private double rooms, many with balconies, are on the top two floors (includes breakfast, 73 Rue de Dunkerque, tel. 01 40 16 16 40, www.vintage-hostel.com, contact@vintage-hostel.com).
These places are located a few minutes from the terminals, outside the T-3 RER stop, and have restaurants. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$ Novotel*** is a step up from cookie-cutter airport hotels (tel. 01 49 19 27 27, www.novotel.com, h1014@accor.com).
$$ Hôtel Ibis CDG Airport** is huge and offers standard airport accommodations (tel. 01 49 19 19 19, www.ibishotel.com, h1404@accor.com).
The small village of Roissy-en-France (you’ll see signs just before the airport as you come from Paris) has better-value chain hotels with free airport-shuttle service (4/hour, 15 minutes, look for navettes hôtels signs to reach these hotels, see www.hotels-roissy-tourisme.com/en). Hotels have reasonably priced restaurants with long hours, though it’s more pleasant to walk into the town, where you’ll find a bakery, pizzeria, cafés, and a few restaurants. Most Roissy hotels list specials on their websites.
The following hotels are within walking distance of the town. $$ Hôtel Ibis CDG Paris Nord 2** is usually cheaper than the Ibis right at the airport (335 Rue de la Belle Etoile, tel. 01 48 17 56 56, www.ibishotel.com, h3299@accor.com). $$ Hôtel Campanile Roissy*** is a decent place to sleep, and you can have a good dinner next door at Hôtel Golden Tulip (Allée des Vergers, tel. 01 34 29 80 40, www.campanile-roissy.fr, roissy@campanile.fr). $$$ Hôtel Golden Tulip Paris CDG*** has a fitness center, sauna, and good restaurant for the suburbs (11 Allée des Vergers, tel. 01 34 29 00 00, www.goldentulipcdgvillepinte.com, info@goldentulipcdgvillepinte.com). The cheapest option is $ B&B Hôtel Roissy CDG*, where many flight attendants stay (17 Allée des Vergers, tel. 01 34 38 55 55, or 02 98 33 75 29, www.hotel-bb.com/roissy).
To avoid rush-hour traffic, drivers can consider sleeping north of Paris in either Auvers-sur-Oise (30 minutes west of airport; see recommendations on here) or in the pleasant medieval town of Senlis (15 minutes north of airport). $$ Hôtel Ibis Senlis** is a few minutes from town (Route Nationale A1, tel. 03 44 53 70 50, www.ibishotel.com, h0709@accor.com).
Two chain hotels, owned by the same company and very close to the Sud terminal, are your best options near Orly. Both have free shuttles (navettes) to the terminal.
$$$ Hôtel Mercure Paris Orly*** provides high comfort for a high price (tel. 08 25 80 69 69, www.accorhotel.com, h1246@accor.com).
$$ Hôtel Ibis Orly Aéroport** is reasonable and basic (tel. 01 56 70 50 60, www.ibishotel.com, h1413@accor.com).
Consider this option if you’re traveling as a family, in a group, or staying at least a few nights. Intrepid travelers around the world are accustomed to using Airbnb and VRBO when it comes to renting a vacation apartment. In Paris, you have many additional options among rental agencies, and I’ve found the following to be the most reliable. Their websites are good and essential to understanding your choices. Read the rental conditions very carefully.
Most of these agencies are middlemen, offering an ever-changing selection of private apartments for rent on a weekly basis (or longer). If staying a month or more, you may save money by renting directly from the apartment owners. Check the housing section in the ad-filled paper France-USA Contacts (available at the American Church and elsewhere in Paris), or check out www.fusac.fr. For more information on renting apartments, see here in the Practicalities chapter.
Paris Perfect has offices in Paris with English-speaking staff who seek the “perfect apartment” for their clients and are selective about what they offer. Their service gets rave reviews. Many units have Eiffel Tower views, and most include free Wi-Fi, free local and international phone calls, satellite TV, air-conditioning, and washers and dryers (RS%, US toll-free tel. 888-520-2087, www.parisperfect.com, reservations@parisperfect.com).
Adrian Leeds Group offers apartments owned by North Americans and is ideal for travelers looking for all the comforts, conveniences, and amenities of home (tel. 877-880-0265, ext. 701, www.adrianleeds.com, apartments@adrianleeds.com).
France Homestyle is run by Claudette, a service-oriented French woman who now lives in Seattle and has hand-picked every apartment she lists (US tel. 206/325-0132, www.francehomestyle.com, info@francehomestyle.com).
Home Rental Service has been in business for 20-something years and offers a big selection of apartments throughout Paris with no agency fees (120 Champs-Elysées, tel. 01 42 25 65 40, www.homerental.fr, info@homerental.fr).
Haven in Paris offers exactly that—well-appointed, stylish havens for travelers looking for a place to temporarily call home. Their fun blog, Hip Paris, is also worth checking out (tel. 617/395-4243, www.haveninparis.com, info@haveninparis.com).
Paris Home is a small outfit, with only two little studios and a one-bedroom unit, located on Rue Amélie in the heart of the Rue Cler area (see map on here). Each has modern furnishings and laundry facilities. Friendly Slim, the owner, is the best part (no minimum stay, special rates for longer stays, credit cards accepted, free maid service, airport/train station transfers possible, mobile 06 19 03 17 55, www.parishome2000.com, parishome2000@yahoo.fr).
Cobblestone Paris Rentals is a small, North American-run outfit offering furnished rentals in central neighborhoods. All apartments have Wi-Fi, international phone calls, and cable TV for free. Apartments come stocked with English-language DVDs about Paris, coffee, tea, cooking spices, basic bathroom amenities, and an English-speaking greeter who will give you the lay of the land (two free river cruises for Rick Steves readers who book a stay of five nights or more, www.cobblestoneparis.com, reservations@cobblestoneparis.com).
Paris for Rent, a San Francisco-based group, has been renting top-end apartments in Paris for more than a decade (US tel. 866-4-FRANCE, www.parisforrent.com).
Cross-Pollinate is a reputable online booking agency representing B&Bs and apartments in a handful of European cities. Paris listings range from a small studio near the Bastille to a two-bedroom apartment in the Marais. Minimum stays vary from one to seven nights (US tel. 800-270-1190, France tel. 09 75 18 11 10, www.cross-pollinate.com, info@cross-pollinate.com).
Several agencies can help you go local by staying in a private home in Paris. While prices and quality can range greatly, most rooms have a private bath and run from €85 to €150. Most owners won’t take bookings for fewer than two nights. To limit stair-climbing, ask whether the building has an elevator. The agencies listed below have a good selection, but there’s no good way to check the quality of the rooms as I do with hotels (agencies work with an ever-changing list of owners—each with a few rooms at most). You are at the mercy of whatever information you get from the agency and its website. Buyer beware.
Alcôve & Agapes is the most-used B&B resource in Paris, offering a broad selection of addresses throughout the city. Their useful website helps you sort through the options with prices, information about the owners, and helpful photos (tel. 07 64 08 42 77, www.bed-and-breakfast-in-paris.com).
Meeting the French offers several interesting services for travelers wanting to meet the French, including a list of locals who happily rent out their spare rooms to travelers. Most of the hosts are older Parisians with big apartments offered at fair rates (tel. 01 42 51 19 80, http://en.meetingthefrench.com).
Good Morning Paris is another source, listing more than 100 properties (tel. 01 47 07 28 29, www.goodmorningparis.fr).