Map: Charles de Gaulle Airport
This chapter covers Paris’ two main airports, one smaller airport, seven train stations, the main bus station, parking tips for drivers, and how to reach the city from Le Havre’s cruise port.
Whether you’re aiming to catch a train or plane, budget plenty of time to reach your departure point. Paris is a big, crowded city, and getting across town or from terminal to terminal on time is a goal you’ll share with millions of others. Factor in traffic delays and walking time through huge stations and vast terminals. At the airport, expect lines at ticketing, check-in, baggage check, and security points. Always keep your luggage safely near you. Thieves prey on jet-lagged and confused tourists on public transportation.
Here’s a rundown of Paris’ major airports and the best ways to get into the city from each. For more on flights within Europe, see here.
Paris’ main airport (airport code: CDG) has three terminals: T-1, T-2, and T-3 (see map). Most flights from the US use T-1 or T-2. You can travel between terminals on the free CDGVAL shuttle train (departs every 5 minutes, 24/7) or by shuttle bus (on the arrivals level). Allow 30 minutes to travel between terminals and an hour for total travel time between your gates at T-1 and T-2. All three terminals have access to ground transportation.
When leaving Paris, make sure you know which terminal you are departing from (if it’s T-2, you’ll also need to know which hall you’re leaving from—they’re labeled A through F). Plan to arrive at the airport two to three hours early for an overseas flight, and two hours for flights within Europe (particularly on budget airlines, which can have especially long check-in lines). For airport and flight info, visit www.adp.fr.
Services: All terminals have two types of information desks (both bright orange): Airport Information, or ADP (identified with a large I), and Paris Tourisme. ADP counters can help with ground transportation to Paris, bag storage, and airport-related questions. At Paris Tourisme counters you can get city maps, buy a Paris Museum Pass, and get tickets for the RoissyBus or RER train to Paris—a terrific time- and hassle-saver. You’ll also find ATMs (distributeurs), free (but slow) Wi-Fi, shops, cafés, and bars. If you are returning home and want a VAT refund, look for tax-refund centers in the check-in area or ask for their location at any ADP information desk.
This circular terminal has three key floors—arrivals (arrivées) on the top floor, and two floors for departures (départs) below. The terminal’s round shape can be confusing—if you feel like you’re going around in circles, you probably are.
Arrival Level (niveau arrivée): After passing through customs, you’ll exit between doors (porte) 34 and 36. Nearby are orange ADP information desks, a snack stand, and an ATM. Walk counterclockwise around the terminal to find the Paris Tourisme desk (door 6). Walk clockwise to find ground transportation: Le Bus Direct, RoissyBus, and the Disneyland shuttle bus (door 34), car rental counters (doors 24-30), and taxis (door 24).
Departure Levels (niveaux départ): Scan the departure screen to find out which hall you should go to for check-in. Halls 1-4 are on floor 2, and 5-6 are downstairs on floor 1. Also on floor 1 are the CDGVAL shuttle train, cafés, a post office (La Poste), pharmacy, boutiques, and a handy grocery. Boarding gates and duty-free shopping are located on floor 3, which is only accessible with a boarding pass.
This long, horseshoe-shaped terminal is divided into six halls, labeled A through F. If arriving here, prepare for long walks and, in some cases, short train rides to baggage claim and exits. It’s a busy place, so take a deep breath and follow signage carefully. ADP and Paris Tourisme counters are located near gate 6/8 in each hall. Shuttle buses (navettes) circulate between T-2 halls A, C, and F, and to terminals T-1 and T-3 on the arrivals level. To locate bus stops for Le Bus Direct and RoissyBus—marked on the map on the previous page—follow Gare Routière signs. For the Disneyland shuttle, follow signs to T-2E/F, door 8; for EasyBus exit through door 5.
T-2 has a train station, with RER suburban trains into Paris (described later), as well as longer-distance trains to the rest of France (including high-speed TGV trains). It’s located between T-2C/D and T-2E/F, below the Sheraton Hotel (prepare for a long walk to reach your train). Shuttle buses to airport hotels leave from above the RER station at T-2.
Car-rental offices, post offices, pharmacies, and ATMs are all well-signed. T-2E/F has several duty-free shopping arcades, and other T-2 halls have smaller duty-free shops. You can stash your bags at Baggage du Monde, located above the train station in T-2, but it’s pricey (€14/12 hours, €18/24 hours, daily 6:00-21:30, tel. 01 34 38 58 90, www.bagagesdumonde.com). Some Paris train stations can store for much less.
Buses, airport vans, commuter trains, and taxis link the airport’s terminals with central Paris. If you’re traveling with two or more companions, carrying lots of baggage, or are just plain tired, taxis (or Uber) are worth the extra cost. Total travel time to your hotel should be around 1.5 hours by bus and Métro, one hour by train and Métro, and 50 minutes by taxi. Keep in mind that, at the airport, using buses and taxis requires shorter walks than taking RER trains. Also remember that transfers to Métro lines often involve stairs. For more information, check the “Getting There” tab at www.charlesdegaulleairport.co.uk.
For details on reaching your hotel neighborhood from the various bus/van/train drop-off points, see the “Public Transportation to Recommended Hotels” sidebar.
By RoissyBus: This bus drops you off at the Opéra Métro stop in central Paris (€11, runs 6:00-23:00, 3-4/hour, 50 minutes, buy ticket at airport Paris Tourisme desk, ticket machine, or on bus, tel. 3246, www.ratp.fr). The RoissyBus arrives on Rue Scribe; to get to the Métro entrance or nearest taxi stand, turn left as you exit the bus and walk counterclockwise around the lavish Opéra building to its front. A taxi to any of my listed hotels costs about €12 from here.
By Le Bus Direct (formerly Air France Bus): Several bus routes drop travelers at different points in and near the city (€17 one-way, runs 5:45-22:30, 2/hour, Wi-Fi and power outlets, tel. 08 92 35 08 20, www.lebusdirect.com). Bus #2 goes to Porte Maillot (with connections to Beauvais Airport, described later), the Arc de Triomphe (Etoile stop, 50 minutes, see map on here), the Trocadéro, and ends at the Eiffel Tower/Champ de Mars RER (1.25 hours, see map on here). Bus #4 runs to Gare de Lyon (45 minutes) and the Montparnasse Tower/train station (1.25 hours). Bus #3 goes to Orly Airport (€21, 1.25 hours). You can book tickets online (must print out and bring with you) or pay the driver (see www.lebusdirect.com for round-trip and group discount details).
To return to the airport from Paris, catch Le Bus Direct coaches at any of these locations: Eiffel Tower/Champ de Mars Métro stop, Trocadéro Métro stop, Arc de Triomphe/Etoile (on Avenue Mac Mahon—the non-Champs-Elysées side), Porte Maillot (on Boulevard Gouvion St-Cyr—east side of the Palais des Congrès), Gare Montparnasse (on Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte—facing the station with the tower behind you, it’s around the left side), or Gare de Lyon (look for Navette-Aéroport signs, and find the stop on Boulevard Diderot across from Café Les Deux Savoies).
By EasyBus: The cheaper, but less reliable EasyBus shuttle drops off at Palais Royal across from the Louvre. Catch the bus at terminal 2F, outside door 5. In Paris, catch the bus at 3 Place André Malraux, opposite La Comédie-Française (€5-8 if you book ahead online, otherwise €10—pay driver with cash or chip-and-PIN card, 1-2/hour, 50 minutes, www.easybus.co.uk).
By RER Train: Paris’ suburban commuter train is the fastest public transit option for getting between the airport and the city center (€11, runs 5:00-24:00, 4/hour, about 35 minutes). It runs directly to well-located RER/Métro stations (including Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, St. Michel, and Luxembourg); from there, you can hop the Métro to get exactly where you need to go. The RER is handy and cheap, but it can require walking with your luggage through big, crowded stations—especially at Châtelet-Les Halles, where a transfer to the Métro can take 10-15 minutes and may include stairs.
To reach the RER from the airport terminal, follow Paris by Train signs, then RER signs. (If you’re landing at T-1 or T-3, you’ll need to take the CDGVAL shuttle to reach the RER station.) The RER station at T-2 is busy with long ticket-window lines (the other airport RER station, located between T-1 and T-2, is quieter). To save time, buy tickets at a Paris Tourisme counter or from the green machines at the station (labeled Paris/Ile de France, coins required, break your bills at an airport shop). For step-by-step instructions on taking the RER into Paris, see www.parisbytrain.com (see the options under “CDG Airport to Paris RER Trains”). Beware of thieves on the train; wear your money belt and keep your bags close.
To return to the airport by RER from central Paris, allow plenty of time to get to your departure gate (plan for a 15-minute Métro or bus ride to the closest RER station serving line B, a 15-minute wait for your train, a 35-minute train ride, plus walking time through the stations and airport). Your Métro or bus ticket is not valid on the RER train to the airport (but a Passe Navigo is); buy the ticket from a clerk or the machines (coins only) at the RER-B station. When you catch your train, make sure the sign over the platform shows Aéroport Roissy-Charles de Gaulle as a stop served. (The line splits, so not every line B train serves the airport.) If you’re not clear, ask another rider, “Air-o-por sharl duh gaul?” Once at the airport, hop out either at T-2 or T-1/3 (where you can connect to T-1 or T-3 on the CDGVAL shuttle).
By Airport Van: Shuttle vans carry passengers to and from their hotels, with stops along the way to drop off and pick up other riders. Shuttles require you to book a precise pickup time in advance—even though you can’t ever know if your flight will arrive exactly on time. For that reason, they work best for trips from your hotel to the airport. Though not as fast as taxis, shuttle vans are a good value for single travelers and big families (about €32 for one person, €46 for two, €58 for three; have hotelier book at least a day in advance). Several companies offer shuttle service; I usually just go with the one my hotel uses.
By Taxi or Uber: Taxis charge a flat rate into Paris (€55 to the Left Bank, €50 to the Right Bank—these mandated flat fees have been recently instituted, so confirm with your driver). Taxis are less appealing on weekday mornings as traffic into Paris can be bad—in that case, the train is likely a better option. Taxis can carry three people with bags comfortably, and are legally required to accept a fourth passenger (though they may not like it; beyond that, there’s an extra passenger supplement). Larger parties can wait for a larger vehicle. Don’t take an unauthorized taxi from cabbies greeting you on arrival. Official taxi stands are well-signed.
For trips from Paris to the airport, have your hotel arrange it. Specify that you want a real taxi (un taxi normal), not a limo service that costs €20 more (and gives your hotel a kickback). For weekday-morning departures (7:00-10:00), reserve at least a day ahead (€7 reservation fee payable by credit card). For more on taxis in Paris, see here.
Paris Uber offers airport pickup or drop-off, but since they can’t use the bus-only lanes as normal taxis can, expect some added time (€30-80).
By Paris Webservices Private Car: This car service works well from the airport because your driver meets you inside the terminal and waits if you’re late (€100 one-way for up to two people, €120-225 round-trip for up to four people, tel. 01 45 56 91 67 or 09 52 06 02 59, www.pariswebservices.com). They also offer guided tours—see here.
By Rental Car: Car-rental desks are well signed from the arrival halls. Be prepared for a maze of ramps as you drive away from the lot—get directions from the rental clerks when you do the paperwork. For information on parking in Paris, see here.
When returning your car, allow ample time to reach the drop-off lots (at T-1 and T-2), especially if flying out of T-2. Be sure you know your flight’s departure hall in T-2 (for example, many Air France and Delta flights for North America leave from T-2E/F). There are separate rental return lots depending on your T-2 departure hall—and imperfect signage can make the return lots especially confusing to navigate.
The Magical Shuttle bus to Disneyland leaves from T-2E/F, door 8 or T-1, door 34 (€20, runs about hourly from 9:00-19:45, 45 minutes, www.magicalshuttle.co.uk). TGV trains run to Disneyland from the airport in 10 minutes, but they leave only hourly and require a shuttle bus ride at the Disneyland end.
This easy-to-navigate airport (airport code: ORY) feels small, but it has all the services you’d expect at a major airport: ATMs and currency exchange, car-rental desks, cafés, shops, post offices, and more (for airport and flight info, see www.adp.fr). Orly is good for rental-car pickup and drop-off, as it’s closer to Paris and far easier to navigate than Charles de Gaulle Airport.
Orly has two terminals: Ouest (west) and Sud (south). Air France and a few other carriers arrive at Ouest; most others use Sud. At both terminals, arrivals are on the ground level (level 0) and departures are on level 1. You can connect the two terminals with the free Orlyval shuttle train (well signed).
Services: Both terminals have Paris Tourisme desks in the arrivals area (a good spot to buy the Paris Museum Pass and tickets for public transit into Paris). There are also airport information desks (called ADP, near baggage claim) with information on flights, public transit into Paris, and help with other airport-related questions. Both terminals offer free Wi-Fi.
Shuttle buses (navettes), the RER, taxis, and airport vans connect Paris with either terminal. Bus stops and taxis are centrally located at arrivals levels and are well signed.
By Bus or Tram: Bus bays are found in the Sud terminal outside exits L and G, and in the Ouest terminal outside exit D.
Le Bus Direct route #1 runs to Gare Montparnasse, La Motte-Picquet, Eiffel Tower, Trocadéro, and Arc de Triomphe/Etoile stops (all except La Motte-Picquet have direct connections to Métro lines). For Rue Cler hotels near the Ecole Militaire Métro stop, take Le Bus Direct to La Motte-Picquet, then walk across the Champ de Mars park to your hotel. Buses depart from the arrivals level—Ouest exit B-C or Sud exit L—look for signs to navettes (€12 one-way, 4/hour, 40 minutes to La Motte-Picquet, buy ticket from driver or book online—be sure to print out and bring your tickets with you). See www.lebusdirect.com for details on round-trip and group discounts.
For the cheapest (but slow) access to the Marais area, take tramway line 7 from outside the Sud terminal (direction: Villejuif-Louis Aragon) to the Villejuif station to catch Métro line 7 (you’ll need one Métro ticket for the tram and one for the Métro—buy a carnet of 10 tickets at the Paris Tourisme desk in the terminal, 4/hour, 45 minutes to Villejuif Métro station, then 15-minute Métro ride to the Marais).
By RER: These options take you to the RER suburban train line B, with access to the Luxembourg Garden area, Notre-Dame Cathedral, handy Métro line 1 at the Châtelet stop, Gare du Nord, and Charles de Gaulle Airport. The Orlybus goes directly to the Denfert-Rochereau Métro and RER-B stations (€7.50, 3/hour, 30 minutes).
The pricier but more frequent—and more comfortable—Orlyval shuttle train takes you to the Antony RER-B station (€10, 6/hour, 40 minutes, buy ticket before boarding). The Orlyval train is well signed and leaves from the departure level at both Orly terminals. Once at the RER-B station, take the train in direction: Mitry-Claye or Aéroport Charles de Gaulle to reach central Paris stops.
For access to RER line C, take the bus marked Pont de Rungis. From the Pont de Rungis station, catch the RER-C to Gare d’Austerlitz, St. Michel/Notre-Dame, Musée d’Orsay, Invalides, and Pont de l’Alma (€7.50, 4/hour, 35 minutes).
By Taxi: Taxis are outside the Ouest terminal exit B, and to the far right as you leave the Sud terminal at exit M. Allow 30 minutes for a taxi ride into central Paris (fixed fare of €30 for Left Bank, €35 for Right Bank).
By Airport Van: From Orly, figure about €23 for one person or €30 for two (less per person for larger groups and kids). For more on airport vans, see here.
The Magical Shuttle bus to Disneyland departs from the main bus bays at both terminals (€20, runs hourly about 9:00-20:00, 45 minutes, www.magicalshuttle.co.uk).
Budget airlines such as Ryanair use this small airport, offering dirt-cheap airfares but leaving you 50 miles north of Paris. Still, this airport has direct buses to Paris and is handy for travelers heading to Normandy or Belgium (car rental available). The airport is basic, waiting areas are crowded, and services are sparse, but improvements are gradually on the way (airport code: BVA, airport tel. 08 92 68 20 66, www.aeroportbeauvais.paris).
By Bus: Buses depart from the airport when they’re full (about 20 minutes after flights arrive) and take 1.5 hours to reach Paris. Buy your ticket (€17 one-way) at the little kiosk to the right as you exit the airport. Buses arrive at Porte Maillot on the west edge of Paris (on Métro line 1 and RER-C). The closest taxi stand is at the Hôtel Hyatt Regency.
Buses heading to Beauvais Airport leave from Porte Maillot about 3.5 hours before scheduled flight departures. Catch the bus in the parking lot on Boulevard Pershing next to the Hyatt Regency. Arrive with enough time to purchase your bus ticket before boarding or buy online at http://tickets.aeroportbeauvais.com.
By Train: Trains connect Beauvais’ city center and Paris’ Gare du Nord (20/day, 1.5 hours). To reach the Beauvais train station, take the Beauvais navette shuttle bus (€5, 6/day, 30 minutes) or local bus #12 (12/day, 30 minutes).
By Taxi: Cabs run from Beauvais Airport to the Beauvais train station or city center (€15-20), or to central Paris (allow €150 and 1.5 hours).
The Magical Shuttle bus to Disneyland is available by appointment from Beauvais via Charles de Gaulle Airport (price varies with number of passengers, 2-3/day, 2.5 hours, www.magicalshuttle.co.uk).
Le Bus Direct #3 directly and conveniently links Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports (€21, stops at Charles de Gaulle T-1 and T-2 and Orly Ouest exit B-C or Sud exit L, roughly 2/hour 5:45-23:00, 1 hour, www.lebusdirect.com).
RER-B connects Charles de Gaulle and Orly but requires a transfer to the Orlyval train. It isn’t as easy as the Le Bus Direct mentioned above, but it’s faster when there’s traffic (€19, 5/hour, 1.5 hours). This line splits at both ends: Heading from Charles de Gaulle to Orly, take trains that serve the Antony stop (direction: St-Rémy-les-Chevreuse), then transfer to the Orlyval shuttle train; heading from Orly to Charles de Gaulle, take trains that end at the airport—Aéroport Charles de Gaulle-Roissy, not Mitry-Claye.
Taxis take about one hour and are easiest, but pricey (about €80).
You can connect Charles de Gaulle to Beauvais via train. From Charles de Gaulle, take the RER-B to Gare du Nord, catch a train to the town of Beauvais, and then a shuttle or local bus to Beauvais Airport (see above).
Taxis between Charles de Gaulle and Beauvais take one hour and cost about €120.
To transfer from Orly to Beauvais, you can take the Orlybus or Orlyval shuttle train (described above, under “Orly Airport”) to the RER suburban train station, then hop on the RER-B to Gare du Nord. From there, catch a train to the town of Beauvais and then a shuttle or local bus to the airport (see “Beauvais Airport,” above).
It’s about a 1.5-hour taxi ride between Orly and Beauvais (about €165).
In this section, I provide an overview of Paris’ major train stations and some specialty train routes from Paris (including the Eurostar). For help on looking up train schedules, buying tickets, and using France’s long-distance rail system, see here.
Paris is Europe’s rail hub, with six major stations and one minor one, and trains heading in different directions:
• Gare du Nord (northbound trains)
• Gare Montparnasse (west- and southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Lyon (southeast-bound trains)
• Gare de l’Est (eastbound trains)
• Gare St. Lazare (northwest-bound trains)
• Gare d’Austerlitz (southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Bercy (smaller station with non-TGV southbound trains)
The main train stations all have free Wi-Fi, banks or currency exchanges, ATMs, train information desks, telephones, cafés, newsstands, and clever pickpockets (pay attention in ticket lines—keep your bag firmly gripped in front of you). Because of security concerns, not all have baggage checks.
Any train station has schedule information, can make reservations, and can sell tickets for any destination. Buying tickets can be handier from an SNCF neighborhood office (see the “SNCF Boutiques” sidebar on here).
Each station offers two types of rail service: long distance to other cities, called Grandes Lignes (major lines, TGV or TER trains); and suburban service to nearby areas, called Banlieue, Transilien, or RER. You also may see ticket windows identified as Ile de France. These are for Transilien trains serving destinations outside Paris in the Ile de France region (usually no more than an hour from Paris). When arriving by Métro, follow signs for Grandes Lignes-SNCF to find the main tracks. Métro and RER trains, as well as buses and taxis, are well marked at every station.
Budget plenty of time before your departure to factor in ticket lines and making your way through large, crowded stations. Paris train stations can be intimidating, but if you slow down, take a deep breath, and ask for help, you’ll find them manageable and efficient. Bring a pad of paper and a pen for clear communication at ticket/info windows. It helps to write down the ticket you want. For instance: “28/05/17 Paris-Nord → Lyon dep. 18:30.” All stations have helpful information booths (accueil); the bigger stations have roving helpers, usually wearing red or blue vests. They’re capable of answering rail questions more quickly than the staff at the information desks or ticket windows. I make a habit of confirming my track number and departure time with these helpers.
The granddaddy of Paris’ train stations serves cities in northern France and international destinations north of Paris, including Copenhagen, Amsterdam, and the Eurostar to London, as well as two of the day trips described in this book (Chantilly and Auvers-sur-Oise).
From the Métro, follow Grandes Lignes signs (main lines) to reach the tracks at street level. Grandes Lignes trains depart from tracks 2-21 (tracks 20 and 21 are around the corner), suburban Banlieue/Transilien lines from tracks 30-36 (signed Réseau Ile-de-France), and RER trains from tracks 37-44 (tracks 41-44 are one floor below). Glass train-information booths (accueil) are scattered throughout the station, and information-helpers circulate (all rail staff speak English).
There’s a helpful TI (labeled Paris Tourisme) kiosk near track 19 that sells Paris Museum Passes and fast-pass “coupe-file” tickets (credit cards only). Information booths for the Thalys trains (high-speed trains to Brussels and Amsterdam; see here) are opposite track 8. All international and main-line ticket sales are at the windows opposite tracks 8 and 12. The ticket counters are split between trains leaving today (Departs pour ce Jour) and departures for another day (Departs pour un autre Jour). Use the touch-screen computers at the entrance (English available) to get your ticket-window number. Tickets for suburban trains are sold at the windows past track 19.
Eurostar trains (to London via the Chunnel) check in on the second level, up the stairs near track 17, or up the glass elevator near track 10. For more on the Eurostar, see here.
Pay WCs are down the stairs across from track 10. Baggage check and rental cars are near track 3 and down the steps. Taxis are out the door past track 3. Steps down to the Métro are opposite tracks 10 and 19.
Key Destinations Served by Gare du Nord Grandes Lignes: Auvers-sur Oise (hourly, 1.5 hours with transfer, one direct train April-Oct Sat-Sun only at about 9:30, 35 minutes), Chantilly-Gouvieux (hourly, fewer on weekends, 25 minutes, also served by slower RER-D lines), Brussels (at least hourly, 1.5 hours), Bruges (at least hourly, 2.5-3 hours, change in Brussels), Amsterdam (9/day direct, 3.5 hours), Berlin (4/day, 8.5 hours, change in Cologne or Dortmund), Koblenz (4/day, 5 hours, change in Cologne, more from Gare de l’Est that don’t cross Belgium), and London by Eurostar (1-2/hour, 2.5 hours).
By Banlieue/RER Lines: Chantilly-Gouvieux (3/hour, 50 minutes), Charles de Gaulle Airport (4/hour, 35 minutes, track 41-44), and Pontoise (2/hour, 50 minutes).
This big, modern station covers three floors, serves lower Normandy and Brittany, and has TGV service to the Loire Valley and southwestern France, as well as suburban service to Chartres.
Baggage check (consignes) and WCs are on the mezzanine (entresol) level. Most services are provided on the top level (second floor up, Hall 1), where all trains arrive and depart. Trains to Chartres usually depart from tracks 18-24, and the main rail information office (accueil) is opposite track 16. As you face the tracks, to the far left and outside are Le Bus Direct buses to Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports (on Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte). Taxis are to the far right as you face the tracks. Car-rental desks are also to the right, along track 24 and up the escalator to Hall 2 (except Hertz, which is outside the station at 15 Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte).
City buses are out front, between the train station and the Montparnasse Tower (down the escalator through the glassy facade). Bus #96 is good for connecting to Marais and Luxembourg area hotels, while #92 is ideal for Rue Cler hotels (both easier than the Métro).
Key Destinations Served by Gare Montparnasse: Chartres (14/day, 1 hour), Amboise (8/day in 1.5 hours with change in St-Pierre-des-Corps, requires TGV reservation; non-TGV trains leave from Gare d’Austerlitz), Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (5/day, 5.5 hours, via Rennes or Caen), Dinan (6/day, 4 hours, change in Rennes and Dol), Bordeaux (20/day, 3.5 hours), Sarlat (4/day, 6-6.5 hours, change in Libourne or Bordeaux), Toulouse (8/day, 5-7 hours, most require change, usually in Bordeaux), Albi (4/day, 6.5-9 hours, change in Montauban or Toulouse), Tours (8/day, 1 hour), Madrid (2/day, 13-14 hours, 3-4 changes), and Lisbon (2/day, 21-24 hours via Irun).
This huge, bewildering station offers TGV and regular service to southeastern France, Italy, Switzerland, and other international destinations. Frequent Banlieue trains serve Fontainebleau.
From the RER or Métro, follow signs for Grandes Lignes to reach the street-level platforms (Grandes Lignes and Banlieue lines share the same tracks). Platforms are divided into two areas: Hall 1 (tracks A-N, shaded in light blue on signs) and Hall 2 (tracks 5-23, shaded in yellow). Hall 3 is underground with more ticket offices and services but no trains.
Monitors indicate the hall number well before the track number is posted, so you know in advance which hall your train leaves from. An interior corridor connecting the halls (by track A) offers many services, including shops and ticket windows for Grandes Lignes and suburban trains (billets Ile de France). Train information booths are opposite tracks A and M in Hall 1 and near track 11 in Hall 2 (others are downstairs). Hall 2 has the best services—including a pharmacy and a good Monop grocery store. You’ll find baggage check (consignes) in Hall 2 down the ramp, opposite track 17, and in Hall 1, downstairs by track M. Car rental is out the exit past track M (Hall 1).
Don’t leave this station without at least taking a peek at the recommended Le Train Bleu Restaurant in Hall 1, up the stairs opposite tracks G-L (see listing on here). Its pricey but atmospheric bar/lounge works well as a quiet waiting area—and there’s free (and fast) Wi-Fi. Slip into a leather chair and time travel back to another era.
Taxi stands are well-signed in front of, and underneath, the station. Le Bus Direct coaches, to Gare Montparnasse (easy transfer to Orly Airport) and direct to Charles de Gaulle Airport, stop outside the station’s main entrance. They are signed Navette-Aéroport. To find them, exit Hall 1 with your back to track A. Walk down the ramp with the Café Européen a bit to your right. Turn right at the street (Boulevard Diderot) and find the shelter at the next corner across from Café Les Deux Savoies. (Buses normally depart at :15 and :45 after the hour; see here.)
Key Destinations Served by Gare de Lyon: Fontainebleau (nearly hourly, 45 minutes; depart from the Grandes Lignes level), Disneyland (RER line A-4 to Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy, at least 3/hour, 45 minutes), Beaune (roughly hourly at rush hour but few midday, 2.5 hours, most require change in Dijon; direct trains from Paris’ Bercy station take an hour longer), Dijon (roughly hourly at rush hour but few midday, 1.5 hours), Chamonix (7/day, 5.5-7 hours, some change in Switzerland), Annecy (hourly, 4 hours, many with change in Lyon), Lyon (at least hourly, 2 hours), Avignon (10/day direct, 2.5 hours to Avignon TGV Station, 5/day in 3.5 hours to Avignon Centre-Ville Station, more connections with change—3-4 hours), Arles (11/day, 2 direct TGVs—4 hours, 9 with change in Avignon—5 hours), Nice (hourly, 6 hours, may require change), Carcassonne (8/day, 7-8 hours, 1 change), Zürich (4/day direct, 4 hours), Venice (4/day, 9.5-11.5 hours with 1-3 changes; 1 direct overnight, 14.5 hours, operated by Thello—which doesn’t accept rail passes, important to reserve ahead at www.thello.com), Rome (2/day, 10.5-12 hours, 1-3 changes), Bern (1/day direct, 6/day with change in Basel, 4-5 hours), Interlaken (1/day direct, 4/day with change in Basel, 5-5.5 hours, 8/day more from Gare de l’Est), and Barcelona (2-4/day direct, 6.5 hours).
This two-floor station (with underground Métro) serves northeastern France and international destinations east of Paris. It’s easy to navigate: All trains depart at street level from tracks 1-30. Check the departure monitors to see which section your train leaves from: Departures marked with a yellow square leave from tracks 2-12, while those marked with a blue square depart from tracks 23-30 (suburban Banlieue trains depart from tracks 13-22).
The main billeterie or ticket office for long-distance trains is in the hall opposite track 9 (nearby yellow ticket machines are handy for those with chip-and-PIN credit cards). A train information office is opposite track 17, and ticket sales are at each end of the station through the halls opposite tracks 8 and 25. White ticket machines between tracks 15-19 are for suburban trains only (coins or credit cards). A TI is opposite track 2 (Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00, closed Sun). Most other services are down the escalator through the hall opposite tracks 12-20 (baggage lockers, car rental, WC, small grocery store, more shops, and Métro access). There’s a post office at track level, near the top of the escalators. Access to taxis and buses is in front of the station (exit with your back to the tracks).
Key Destinations Served by Gare de l’Est: Vaux-le-Vicomte (take train to Verneuil-l’Etang, direction: Provins, 1/hour, 30 minutes, and catch connecting bus from there, see here for details), Colmar (12/day with TGV, 3.5 hours, change in Strasbourg), Strasbourg (hourly with TGV, 2.5 hours), Reims Centre station (12/day with TGV, 50 minutes), Verdun (3/day direct via TGV and shuttle bus, 1.5 hours; 3.5 hours by regional train with transfer in Chalôns-en-Champagne), Interlaken (8/day, 6.5-8.5 hours, 1-2 changes, faster trains from Gare de Lyon), Zürich (12/day, 5-7 hours, 1-2 changes, faster direct trains from Gare de Lyon), Frankfurt (4 direct/day, 4 hours; 3 more/day with change in Karlsruhe, 4.5 hours), Vienna (7/day, 11-12 hours, 1-3 changes), Prague (3/day, 11 hours, 1-2 changes), Munich (1/day direct, 6/day with 1 change, 6 hours), and Berlin (3/day, 8.5 hours, change in Frankfurt).
This compact station serves upper Normandy, including Rouen and Giverny. All trains arrive and depart one floor above street level.
From the Métro, follow signs to Grandes Lignes to reach the tracks (long walk). Grandes Lignes to all destinations listed below depart from tracks 18-27; Banlieue trains depart from 1-16. The ticket office and car rental are near track 27. The main train information office (accueil) is near track 21; others are scattered about the station. WCs are opposite track 17. This station has no baggage check, but it does have a three-floor shopping mall (Monop grocery store, pharmacy, clothing stores, and more). Taxis, the Métro, and buses are well signed.
Key Destinations Served by Gare St. Lazare: Giverny (train to Vernon, 8/day Mon-Sat, 6/day Sun, 45 minutes), Pontoise (1-2/hour, 45 minutes), Rouen (nearly hourly, 1.5 hours), Le Havre (hourly, 2.5 hours, some change in Rouen), Honfleur (13/day, 2-3.5 hours, via Lisieux, Deauville, or Le Havre, then bus), Bayeux (9/day, 2.5 hours, some change in Caen), Caen (14/day, 2 hours), and Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (2/day, 4-5.5 hours, via Caen; more trains from Gare Montparnasse).
This small station currently provides non-TGV service to the Loire Valley, southwestern France, and Spain (several tracks are being retrofitted to accommodate TGV trains in the future). All tracks are at street level. The information booth and a comfortable waiting room are opposite track 17, and all ticket sales are in the entry hall. Baggage check and car rental are along the side of the station, opposite track 21. You’ll find WCs (with €10 showers that include towel and soap) at track 21. To get to the Métro and RER, you must walk outside and along either side of the station. To reach Gare de Lyon on foot (a level 10-minute walk), follow signs opposite track 1.
Key Destinations Served by Gare d’Austerlitz: Orly Airport (via RER-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes), Versailles (via RER-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes), Amboise (3/day direct in 2 hours, more with transfer; faster TGV connection from Gare Montparnasse), Sarlat (1/day, 6.5 hours, requires change to bus in Souillac, 3 more/day via Gare Montparnasse), Carcassonne (1 direct night train, 7.5 hours, better day trains from Gare de Lyon), and Cahors (5/day, 5 hours; slower trains from Gare Montparnasse).
This smaller station mostly handles southbound non-TGV trains, but some TGV trains do stop here in peak season (Mo: Bercy, one stop east of Gare de Lyon on line 14, exit the Bercy Métro station and it’s across the street). Facilities are limited—just a WC and a sandwich-fare takeout café.
The pricey Thalys train has the monopoly on the rail route between Paris and Brussels. Without a rail pass, for the Paris-Amsterdam train, you’ll pay about €80-205 first class, €35-135 second class (compared to €38-50 by bus); for the Paris-Brussels train it’s €65-140 first class, €30-100 second class (€20-30 by bus). Even with a rail pass, you need to pay for train reservations (first class-€30-35, includes a meal; second class-€20-25). Book early for the best rates (seats are limited in various discount categories, www.thalys.com).
Thalys also operates a slower, cheaper Paris to Brussels train called IZY (2-3/day, 2.5 hours, tickets from €10 for standing room to €29 full fare, rail passes not accepted, luggage limits, online only at www.izy.com). For another cheap option, try the Eurolines bus or OuiBus operated by SNCF (see “Paris Bus Connections,” below).
A TGV train called OuiGo (pronounced “we go”) offers a direct connection from Disneyland Paris to select cities in southern France at rock-bottom fares with no-frills service. The catch: These trains leave from the Marne-la-Vallée TGV station, an hour from Paris on RER-A. So you can hang at Disneyland Paris before (or after) your trip south and connect with a direct TGV. You must print your own ticket ahead of time, arrive 30 minutes before departure, and activate your ticket. You can’t use a rail pass, and you can only bring one carry-on-size bag plus one handbag for free (children’s tickets allow you to bring a stroller). Larger or extra luggage is €5/bag if you pay when you buy your ticket. If you just show up without paying in advance, it’s €20/bag on the train—yikes. There’s no food service on the train (BYO), but children under age 12 pay only €5 for a seat. The website explains it all in easy-to-understand English (www.ouigo.com).
The fastest and most convenient way to get from the Eiffel Tower to Big Ben is by rail. Eurostar zips you (and up to 800 others in 18 sleek cars) from downtown Paris to downtown London at 190 mph in 2.5 hours (1-2/hour). The tunnel crossing is a 20-minute, silent, 100-mile-per-hour nonevent. Your ears won’t even pop.
Eurostar Fares: The Eurostar is not covered by rail passes and always requires a separate, reserved train ticket. Eurostar fares vary depending on how far ahead you reserve and whether you’re eligible for any discounts.
A one-way, full-fare ticket runs about $225 (Standard), $310 (Standard Premier), and $380 (Business Premier). Discounts can lower fares substantially (figure $45-160 for Standard class, one-way) for children under 12, youths under 26, adults booking months ahead or traveling round-trip, and rail-pass holders. The early bird gets the best price. If you’re ready to commit, you can book tickets as early as four to nine months in advance.
Buying Eurostar Tickets: Because only the most expensive (Business Premier) ticket is refundable, and other rates have exchange restrictions, don’t reserve until you’re sure of your plans. But if you wait too long, the cheapest tickets will be gone.
You can buy tickets online using the print-at-home eticket option at www.ricksteves.com/eurostar or www.eurostar.com. You can also order by phone through Rail Europe (US tel. 800-387-6782) for home delivery before you go, or through Eurostar (French tel. 08 92 35 35 39, priced in euros) to pick up at the train station. In continental Europe you can buy your Eurostar tickets at any major train station in any country, at neighborhood SNCF offices (see the “SNCF Boutiques” sidebar, earlier), or at any travel agency that handles train tickets (expect a booking fee). Discount tickets for rail pass holders (which can sell out) are available at Eurostar departure stations, through US agents, or by phone with Eurostar, but they may be harder to get at other train stations and travel agencies.
Taking the Eurostar: Eurostar trains depart from and arrive at Paris’ Gare du Nord (see here). Check in at least 45 minutes in advance (remember that times listed on tickets are local times—departure from Paris is French time, arrival in London is British time). Pass through airport-like security, show your passport to customs officials, and locate your departure gate (shown on a TV monitor). The currency-exchange booth here has rates about the same as you’ll find on the other end. There’s a reasonable restaurant before the first check-in point, but there are only a couple of tiny sandwich-and-coffee counters in the cramped waiting area.
Crossing the Channel Without Eurostar: For speed and affordability, look into cheap flights (see here). The old-fashioned ways of crossing the Channel are cheaper than Eurostar (taking the bus is cheapest; see below). They’re also twice as complicated and time-consuming.
To go by train and boat to London, take the TGV train from Paris to Calais, then catch a P&O ferry to Dover, England (hourly, 1.5 hours, www.poferries.com). From Dover’s Priory Station, take a train to London’s St. Pancras, Charing Cross, or Victoria Station (hourly, 1.5-2 hours).
Below I’ve provided some information for travelers not arriving by plane or train.
The main bus station, Gare Routière du Paris-Gallieni, is in the suburb of Bagnolet (28 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, Mo: Gallieni). Buses provide cheaper—if less comfortable and more time-consuming—transportation to major European cities. The bus is also the cheapest way to cross the English Channel; book at least two days in advance for the best fares.
Eurolines’ buses depart from here (toll tel. 08 92 89 90 91 inside France; from the US, dial 011 33 1 41 86 24 21, www.eurolines.com). Look on their website for offices in central Paris. OuiBus also offers cheap, Wi-Fi-equipped bus service with an English-speaking driver from Paris to London (6/day, 8 hours), Amsterdam (7/day, 6.5 hours), Cologne (3/day, 8 hours), and other cities, including many in France (toll tel. 08 92 68 00 68 inside France, www.ouibus.com).
Street parking is generally free at night (19:00-9:00) and all day Sunday. To pay for streetside parking, you must go to a tabac and buy a parking card (une carte de stationnement), sold in €15 and €45 denominations (figure €2-4/hour in central Paris). Insert the card into the meter (chip-side in) and punch the desired amount of time, then take the receipt and display it in your windshield. Meters limit street parking to a maximum of two hours.
Underground garages are plentiful in Paris. You’ll find them under Ecole Militaire, St. Sulpice Church, Les Invalides, the Bastille, and the Panthéon; all charge about €30-45/day (€60/3 days, €10/day more after that, for locations see www.vincipark.com). Some hotels offer parking for less—ask your hotelier.
For a longer stay, park for less at an airport (about €10/day) and take public transport or a taxi into the city. Orly is closer and easier for drivers to navigate than Charles de Gaulle.
Though it’s a landlocked city, Paris is an increasingly popular cruise destination. Ships visiting “Paris” actually call at the industrial city of Le Havre, France’s second-biggest port (after Marseille), and the primary French port on the Atlantic. Port information: www.cruiselehavre.com.
To reach Paris from Le Havre, it’s about a 2.5-hour train ride each way. To get from the port to the Le Havre train/bus station, you can ride a cruise-line shuttle bus, take a taxi, or walk about 35 minutes. From there, trains leave about every 1-2 hours for the 2.5-hour journey to Paris’ St. Lazare Station (fewer on weekends).
If you’d rather stick closer to your ship, consider these alternatives: the harbor town of Honfleur (30 minutes by bus); the historic D-Day beaches (an hour or so to the west); and the pleasant small city of Rouen (one hour by train).
For more details, see my Rick Steves Northern European Cruise Ports guidebook.