Founded at the head of the Klang Valley in the mid-nineteenth century, Kuala Lumpur – widely known as KL – has never had a coherent style. The earliest grand buildings around Merdeka Square, dating from the 1890s, are an eccentric fusion of influences from across the British Empire, now overshadowed by soaring modern landmarks (notably the Petronas Towers) that wouldn’t be out of place in Hong Kong or New York. This melange extends to the people too, as you could spend a visit to KL simply soaking up its excitingly diverse Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures: the conversations heard on the street, the huge range of food and the profusion of onion-domed mosques, incense-infused Buddhist temples and colourful Hindu shrines.
A stay of a few days is enough to appreciate the best of KL’s attractions, including the colonial core around Merdeka Square and the adjacent enclaves of Chinatown and Little India, plus, to the east, the restaurants, shops and nightlife of the so-called Golden Triangle, the modern heart of downtown KL. It can be equally rewarding just to take in the street life, in particular the boisterous markets, ranging from fish and vegetable stalls stuffed into alleyways, via clothes and accessories vendors, to stands selling cooked food of every shape and description. Indeed, the capital offers some of the most exciting cuisines in the country, not only in the street markets but also in a plethora of restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets.
KL’s hinterland has a number of worthwhile sights, too, among them the rugged limestone Batu Caves, which contain the country’s most sacred Hindu shrine; Kuala Selangor and its magical fireflies; and the hard-to-reach birding hotspot of Fraser’s Hill.
jalan alor
Highlights
1 Petronas Towers Come to gawp at these surprisingly serene twin structures, then browse in one of KL’s best shopping malls just beneath.
2 Menara KL Tower Forget the Petronas Towers’ Skybridge – this is the place for bird’s-eye views of KL in all its glory.
3 Islamic Arts Museum One of the most sophisticated museums in the capital, documenting Muslim cultures through arts and crafts.
4 Eating around Jalan Alor KL has excellent restaurants offering cuisines from around the world, but it’s the street food, notably around Jalan Alor, that’s often the most memorable.
5 Drinking in TREC KL is Malaysia’s party capital, home to exceptional clubs like Zouk that draw big-name DJs.
6 Shopping in KL’s malls and markets Whether you prefer the bright lights of the state-of-the-art malls or the bustle of the city’s endless street markets and bazaars, KL is a city made for bargain-hunting.
7 Batu Caves Equal parts spiritual destination and theme park, these limestone caves on the edge of KL house a Hindu temple complex and offer subterranean adventures.