I’m a nature lover, a wildlife-watcher, a committed hiker, and a card-carrying member of the Sierra Club and Audubon Society. I run my life’s appointment calendar by the timing of the wildflower bloom, the flow of waterfalls, and the show of autumn colors. I spend my work days and play days doing basically the same thing—exploring the natural world.
This being the case, it may seem odd that I chose to write a book about a large urban area packed with nearly seven million people. But the San Francisco Bay Area is the wildest metropolitan area in the United States, with precious swaths of open space surrounding and interspersed amid its urban and suburban core. Although grizzly bears no longer roam the Bay Area as they did 150 years ago, coyotes still gallop across the grasslands, herds of tule elk wander the coastal hills, badgers build their underground dens, and mountain lions and bobcats stalk their prey. Elephant seals still breed on the Bay Area’s beaches, river otters ply the waterways, and peregrine falcons, American kestrels, and golden and bald eagles soar overhead.
In the course of hiking the 101 trails in this book, I saw all of these creatures and more.
If you hike much in the Bay Area, you will be awed by the beauty and grace of centuries-old virgin redwoods. You’ll wonder at the sight of rare and precious wildflowers, some of which grow here and nowhere else in the world. Your ears will be filled with the sound of crashing surf against miles of jagged coastal bluffs. You’ll gaze at waterfalls coursing down basalt cliffs, pouring over sandstone precipices, and even dashing to the sea. You’ll stand on summits and look down thousands of feet to the valleys below. In autumn, you’ll watch black oaks and big-leaf maples turn bright gold, and in winter, you’ll see a dusting of snow fall on the Bay Area’s high peaks and ridges.
Quite possibly, you’ll wind up spending some of the best days of your life on Bay Area trails. I know I have.
Speaking of hiking, take a look out the window. Chances are good that it’s a nice day for a walk. See you out there.
—Ann Marie Brown
Can’t decide where to hike this weekend? I’ve grouped these unique Bay Area hikes into some of my favorite categories.
Lake Ilsanjo Loop, Trione-Annadel State Park, Napa and Sonoma, tap here
Marsh and South Pasture Loop, Rush Ranch, Solano Land Trust, Napa and Sonoma, tap here
Abbotts Lagoon, Point Reyes National Seashore, Marin, tap here
Estero Trail to Sunset Beach, Point Reyes National Seashore, Marin, tap here
Kent, Griffin, and Zumie Loop Trails, Audubon Canyon Ranch/Martin Griffin Preserve, Marin, tap here
Lagoon Trail, Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Marin, tap here
Rock City and Wall Point Summit, Mount Diablo State Park, East Bay, tap here
Bayview and Red Hill Loop, Coyote Hills Regional Park, East Bay, tap here
Sunol Loop Tour, Sunol Regional Wilderness, East Bay, tap here
Alcatraz Island’s Agave Trail, Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Sequoia Audubon Trail, Pescadero Marsh Natural Preserve, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Bald Mountain Loop, Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, Napa and Sonoma, tap here
Mount St. Helena, Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, Napa and Sonoma, tap here
Table Rock, Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, Napa and Sonoma, tap here
Barnabe Peak Loop, Samuel P. Taylor State Park, Marin, tap here
Verna Dunshee Trail and Gardner Lookout, Mount Tamalpais State Park, Marin, tap here
Coastal Trail and Hill 88 Loop, Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Marin, tap here
North Ridge and Sunset Trail Loop, Angel Island State Park, Marin, tap here
Wildcat Peak and Laurel Canyon Loop, Tilden Regional Park, East Bay, tap here
Mount Diablo Grand Loop, Mount Diablo State Park, East Bay, tap here
Mission Peak, Mission Peak Regional Preserve, East Bay, tap here
Montara Mountain Summit, McNee Ranch State Park and Montara State Beach, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Matt Davis and Steep Ravine Loop, Mount Tamalpais State Park, Marin, tap here
Bootjack, Ben Johnson, and Hillside Trail Loop, Muir Woods National Monument and Mount Tamalpais State Park, Marin, tap here
Stream, Fern, and West Ridge Trail Loop, Redwood Regional Park, East Bay, tap here
Purisima Grand Loop, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Peters Creek Grove, Portola Redwoods State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Heritage Grove and Hiker’s Hut Loop, Sam McDonald County Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Berry Creek, Silver, and Golden Falls, Big Basin Redwoods State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Sky Trail and Woodward Valley Loop, Point Reyes National Seashore, Marin, tap here
Coast, Fire Lane, and Laguna Loop, Point Reyes National Seashore, Marin, tap here
North Ridge and Sunset Trail Loop, Angel Island State Park, Marin, tap here
Stewartville and Ridge Trail Loop, Black Diamond Mines Regional Preserve, East Bay, tap here
Black Mountain and Stevens Creek Loop, Monte Bello Open Space Preserve, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Peters Creek and Long Ridge Loop, Long Ridge Open Space Preserve, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Saratoga Gap and Ridge Trail Loop, Castle Rock State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Butano Grand Loop, Butano State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Berry Creek, Silver, and Golden Falls, Big Basin Redwoods State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Flat Frog, Middle Ridge, and Fish Trail Loop, Henry W. Coe State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Zim Zim Falls, Knoxville Wildlife Area, Napa and Sonoma, tap here
Barnabe Peak Loop, Samuel P. Taylor State Park, Marin, tap here
Bass Lake and Alamere Falls, Point Reyes National Seashore, Marin, tap here
Cataract Trail to Cataract Falls, Marin Municipal Water District, Marin, tap here
Carson Falls, Marin Municipal Water District, Marin, tap here
Cascade Canyon, Marin County Open Space District, Marin, tap here
Back and Donner Canyon Loop, Mount Diablo State Park, East Bay, tap here
Murietta Falls, Ohlone Regional Wilderness, East Bay, tap here
Saratoga Gap and Ridge Trail Loop, Castle Rock State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Berry Creek, Silver, and Golden Falls, Big Basin Redwoods State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Loma Prieta Grade and Bridge Creek Loop, The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Waterfall Loop Trail, Uvas Canyon County Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Pomo Canyon Trail, Sonoma Coast State Park, Napa and Sonoma, tap here
Goodspeed/Nattkemper Trail to Gunsight Rock, Sugarloaf Ridge State Park and Hood Mountain Regional Park, Napa and Sonoma, tap here
Chimney Rock, Point Reyes National Seashore, Marin, tap here
Coastal, Cataract, and Old Mine Loop, Mount Tamalpais State Park, Marin, tap here
Phyllis Ellman Trail, Ring Mountain Open Space Preserve, Marin, tap here
Morgan Territory Loop, Morgan Territory Regional Preserve, East Bay, tap here
Sunol Loop Tour, Sunol Regional Wilderness, East Bay, tap here
Summit Loop Trail, San Bruno Mountain State and County Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Russian Ridge Loop, Russian Ridge Open Space Preserve, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Marsh and South Pasture Loop (river otters), Rush Ranch, Solano Land Trust, Napa and Sonoma, tap here
Tomales Point Trail (tule elk), Point Reyes National Seashore, Marin, tap here
Chimney Rock (whales and elephant seals), Point Reyes National Seashore, Marin, tap here
Round Valley Loop (San Joaquin kit fox), Round Valley Regional Preserve, East Bay, tap here
Tidepool Walk (tidepool creatures), Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Año Nuevo Point Trail (elephant seals), Año Nuevo State Reserve, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Old Landing Cove Trail (sea lions and whales), Wilder Ranch State Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
Antler Point Loop (wild pigs), Joseph D. Grant County Park, Peninsula and South Bay, tap here
There’s nothing like being hungry or thirsty to spoil a good time or to make you anxious about getting back to the car. Even if you aren’t the least bit hungry or thirsty when you park at the trailhead, you may feel completely different after 45 minutes or more of walking. A small backpack can keep you happily supplied with a couple quarts of water and a few snacks. Always carry more than you think you’ll need. If you don’t bring your own water, make sure you carry a water filter or treatment system so you can obtain water from a natural source, such as a stream or lake. (My favorite water treatment device is the SteriPEN, a small ultraviolet light that weighs only a few ounces and requires only 90 seconds to purify water.) Never, ever drink water from a natural source without first filtering or boiling it. The risk to your health (from Giardia lamblia and other microorganisms) is too great. And remember, in the warm climate of the San Francisco Bay Area, it’s unwise to depend on finding natural water sources. A spring or creek that flows with fervor in March may be completely dry by July.
Get a current map of the park or public land where you plan to hike. Maps are available from a variety of resources, including excellent private companies, such as Tom Harrison Maps or Pease Press, as well as the managing agencies of most parks. Today most park maps are available online, so you can download a free map before starting your hike.
A brief stop along the trail to check the map can save you time, energy, and frustration.
On the trail, conditions can change at any time. Not only can the weather suddenly turn windy, foggy, or rainy, but your own body conditions also change: You’ll perspire as you hike up a sunny hill and then get chilled at the top of a windy ridge or when you head into shade. Because of this, cotton fabrics don’t function well outdoors. Once cotton gets wet, it stays wet. Generally, polyester- or silk-blend fabrics dry faster. Some high-tech fabrics actually wick moisture away from your skin. Invest in a few items of clothing made from these fabrics, and you’ll be more comfortable when you hike.
Additionally, always carry a lightweight jacket with you, preferably one that is waterproof and also wind resistant. Put it in your backpack or tie it around your waist. If your jacket isn’t waterproof, pack one of the $3, single-use rain ponchos that come in a package the size of a deck of cards (available at most drugstores and outdoor retailers).
It doesn’t hurt to carry a pair of lightweight gloves and a hat as well. You never know when you might need them, especially if that notorious Bay Area fog rolls in.
The dangers of the sun are well known. Always wear sunglasses, sunscreen, and/or a hat with a wide brim. Put on your sunscreen 30 minutes before you go outdoors so it has time to take effect, and don’t forget to coat your lips with lip balm that has a high SPF.
Just in case your hike takes a little longer than you planned and darkness falls, bring at least one flashlight. Mini-flashlights are available everywhere, weigh almost nothing, and can save the day—or night. My favorite is the tiny squeeze flashlights, about the shape and size of a quarter, that you can clip on to any key ring (the Photon Micro-Light is a popular brand). Because these flashlights are so small and light, carry two or three so you never have to worry about the batteries running out of juice.
Unless you’re trained in first aid, nothing major is required here, but a few large and small adhesive bandages and moleskin for blisters, antibiotic ointment, ibuprofen, and an Ace bandage can be valuable tools. Also, if you or anyone in your party is allergic to bee stings or anything else in the outdoors, carry the appropriate medication. If you are hiking in an area where you might be bothered by mosquitoes, bring a small bottle of insect repellent.
Many hikers think that if they are just going for a day hike, they don’t need to carry anything for emergencies. Think again. The vast majority of search-and-rescue operations are instigated because day-hikers—not backpackers—have gotten lost or injured. Ask yourself this question: “What would I need to have with me if I broke my ankle and had to spend the night outdoors?” Aside from food, water, and other items previously listed, always carry a few basic supplies that will get you through an unplanned night outdoors. Extra warm clothing is key, as is a Swiss Army-style pocketknife that includes several blades, a can opener, scissors, and tweezers. Matches in a waterproof container and a candle will ensure you can always build a fire if you need to. A lightweight space blanket or sleeping bag made of foil-like Mylar film will keep you warm (these can be purchased at outdoors stores, weigh next to nothing, and come in a package about the size of a deck of cards). A whistle and small signal mirror can help people find you if you ever get lost. And if you know how to use a compass, carry one.
All three of these creatures deserve your respect, and it’s good to know a little bit about them. Chances are high that you will never see a mountain lion, but you just might run into a tick or a snake somewhere.
Mountain lions are almost everywhere in California, but they are very shy and secretive animals and, as a result, are rarely seen. When they do show themselves, they get a lot of media attention. If you’re hiking in an area where mountain lions or their tracks have been spotted, remember to keep your children close to you on the trail and your dog leashed. If you see a mountain lion, it will most likely vanish into the landscape as soon as it notices you. If it doesn’t, make yourself appear as large and aggressive as possible. Raise your arms, open your jacket, wave a big stick, and speak loudly and firmly or shout. If you have children with you, pick them up off the ground, but try to do so without crouching down or leaning over. (Crouching makes you appear smaller and more submissive, like prey.) Don’t turn your back on the cat or run from it; instead, back away slowly and deliberately, always retaining your aggressive pose and continuing to speak loudly.
Ticks are a common problem in the San Francisco Bay Area, especially in the spring months. The easiest way to stay clear of ticks is to wear long pants and long sleeves when you hike and to tuck your pant legs into your socks. But this system isn’t foolproof—the darn things sometimes find their way onto your skin no matter what you do. Always check yourself thoroughly when you leave the trail, looking carefully for anything that might be crawling on you. Check your clothes and also your skin underneath. A good friend can be a useful assistant in this endeavor.
Of 850 tick species in the world, 49 are found in California. A very small percentage of the ticks found in the Bay Area carry Lyme disease. Most tick bites cause a sharp sting that will get your attention. But on rare occasions, ticks will bite you without your noticing. If you’ve been in the outdoors and then a few days or a week later start to experience flu-like symptoms, such as headaches, fever, muscle soreness, neck stiffness, or nausea, see a doctor immediately. Tell the doctor you are concerned about possible exposure to ticks and Lyme disease. Another early telltale symptom is a slowly expanding red rash near the tick bite, which appears a week to a month after the bite. Caught in its early stages, Lyme disease is easily treated with antibiotics, but left untreated, it can be severely debilitating.
Eight rattlesnake species live in California. These members of the pit viper family have wide triangular heads, narrow necks, and rattles on their tails. Rattlesnakes live where it’s warm, usually at elevations below 6,000 feet. They are commonly seen in the East Bay hills but can also be found in cooler places, such as western Marin and the San Mateo coast. If you see one, give it plenty of space to get away without feeling threatened. If you’re hiking on a nice day, when rattlesnakes are often out sunning themselves on trails and rocks, keep your eyes open for them so you don’t step on one or place your hand on it. Be especially on the lookout for rattlesnakes in the spring, when they leave their winter burrows and come out in the sun. Morning is the most common time to see them, as the midday sun is usually too hot for them.
If you come across a rattlesnake, stop and give it plenty of room to slither away.
Although rattlesnake bites are painful, they are very rarely fatal. Each year, more than 100 people in California are bitten by rattlesnakes, with only one or two fatalities on average. About 25 percent of rattlesnake bites are dry, with no venom injected. Symptoms of venomous bites usually include tingling around the mouth, nausea and vomiting, dizziness, weakness, sweating, and/or chills. If you get bitten by a rattlesnake, your car key—and the nearest telephone—are your best first-aid tools. Call 911 as soon as you can, or have someone drive you to the nearest hospital. Don’t panic or run, which can speed the circulation of venom through your system.
Except for a handful of rattlesnake species, no other California snakes are poisonous. Just give them room to slither by.
Poison oak is the bane of hikers everywhere, but you can avoid it with a little common sense. Learn to recognize and avoid Toxicodendron diversilobum, which produces an itching rash that can last for weeks. If you can’t readily identify poison oak, at least remember the old Boy Scout motto: Leaves of three, let them be. But be wary: Poison oak disguises itself in different seasons. In spring and summer when it is in full leaf, it looks somewhat like wild blackberry bushes. In late summer, its leaves turn bright red. But in winter, the plant loses all or most of its leaves and resembles clusters of bare sticks. Poison oak is poisonous year-round.
Remember the Boy Scout motto: “Leaves of three, let them be.”
To avoid poison oak, stay on the trail and watch what you brush up against. If you know you have a bad reaction to poison oak, wear long pants and long sleeves, and remove and wash your clothes immediately after hiking. If you have been exposed to poison oak, you can often prevent a rash from developing by washing the area thoroughly with soap and water, or with an oil-removing product like Tecnu, as soon as possible. If you do develop poison oak rash, a product called Zanfel can help you get rid of it. It costs a small fortune (about $40 a bottle), but it is available at pharmacies without a prescription. Simply pour it on the rash and the rash vanishes, or at least greatly diminishes. A less expensive product called Tecnu Extreme also works well. Many hikers consider these medications to be the greatest inventions since lightweight hiking boots.
If you’re hiking with a family or group, make sure everybody knows to stay together. If anyone decides to split off from the group for any reason, make sure that person has a trail map and knows how to read it. Also, be sure that everyone in your group knows the key rules about what to do if they get lost:
1. Whistle or shout loudly at regular intervals.
2. If you can find a trail, stay on the trail. You’ll be easier to find than if you wander off-trail.
3. Find a noticeable landmark like a tree or a big boulder, sit down next to it, and don’t move. Stay in one place and you’ll be easier to find.
4. Continue to whistle or shout loudly.
Dogs are wonderful friends and great companions, but dogs and nature don’t always mix well. Bless their furry little hearts, most dogs can’t resist disturbing the local wildlife. Even if they don’t chase or bark at squirrels or birds or other animals, dogs leave droppings that may intimidate other creatures into altering their normal routines. But a dog who is kept on a leash and picked up after can be the best hiking companion you could ask for.
Of course your dog wants to hike with you, but make sure he or she is “legal” on your chosen trail.
Dogs are allowed on some trails in the Bay Area, but not on others. For many dog owners, the distinction is confusing. When using this book, check the information listing under each trail write-up to determine whether dogs are permitted on a specific trail. Always call the park or public land in advance if you are traveling some distance with your dog. Following are some general guidelines about Bay Area parks and dogs.
In most state parks around the Bay, dogs are not allowed at all on hiking trails, although they are permitted in campgrounds and at some picnic areas. That means no canine hiking fun at almost any place with “State Park” or “State Reserve” in the title. Unfortunately, that eliminates many of the trails in Sonoma and Napa Counties. Luckily, the Sonoma County Park system takes up the slack with several dog-friendly parks, including Hood Mountain Regional Park.
In Marin County, the federally managed Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA) allows leashed dogs on most, but not all, trails. Most of the wonderful GGNRA trails in the Marin Headlands are open to dogs, but a few are not, including the popular Tennessee Valley Trail. At Point Reyes National Seashore, another federal park unit, dog-friendly trails are the exception, not the rule. Only a few Point Reyes trails are open to dogs, most notably the lovely Kehoe Beach Trail. Limantour Beach is another popular spot for dogs and their owners.
Some other parks in Marin County are more welcoming to dogs, including the lands of the Marin County Open Space District and Marin Municipal Water District. But be careful on trails that travel from one jurisdiction to another, such as those that start out in Marin Water District lands and lead into Mount Tamalpais State Park. As soon as the trail enters the state park, dogs are forbidden.
East Bay dogs and dog owners can bark for joy, because the East Bay Regional Park District is remarkably dog lenient, even allowing canines off-leash in many parks. But this freedom comes with a small price: At most East Bay parks, you have to pay an entrance fee for your dog (usually $3). A few East Bay parks are still off-limits to dogs, including Tilden, Huckleberry, and Round Valley, but in general, the East Bay Regional Park system is doggy heaven. Keep in mind that if your dog is off-leash, it should still be under voice control, if for no other reason than for its safety. The great outdoors presents many hazards for dogs, including mountain lions, rattlesnakes, ticks, and a host of other potential problems. Dogs can get lost after running off to chase a deer or other wildlife. Keep your dog near your side so both of you can have a safe, enjoyable hike.
South of San Francisco, dog lovers have to look harder to find places for Fido to roam. Luckily McNee Ranch State Park (Montara Mountain), just south of Pacifica and north of Half Moon Bay, is one of the few Bay Area state parks that allows dogs. Although it may be tempting to bring your dog to the beautiful shores of the San Mateo County coast, canines are off-limits on the beaches to protect nesting snowy plovers. Dogs are also prohibited in all San Mateo County parks, but they are permitted at some (but not most) of the Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District parklands off Skyline Boulevard. And, if you head farther south, you’ll find that the Santa Clara County park system is remarkably dog-friendly.
To restate the obvious, always follow each park’s specific rules about dogs. Trails where dogs are prohibited are almost always noted as such at the trailhead, so obey the signs and you’ll stay out of trouble. If the rules state that your dog must be leashed, that usually means it must be on a six-foot or shorter leash. Don’t try to get away with carrying the leash in your hand while your dog runs free; rangers are not fooled by this gambit and may give you a ticket.
Take good care of this beautiful land you’re hiking on. The basics are simple: Leave no trace of your visit. Pack out all your trash. Do your best not to disturb animal or plant life. Don’t collect specimens of plants, wildlife, or even pinecones. Never, ever carve anything into the trunks of trees. If you’re following a trail, don’t cut the switchbacks. Leave everything in nature exactly as you found it, because each tiny piece has its place in the great scheme of things.
You can go the extra mile, too. Pick up any litter that you see on the trail. Teach your children to do this as well. Carry an extra bag to hold the litter until you get to a trash receptacle, or just keep an empty pocket for that purpose in your backpack.
If you have the extra time or energy, join a trail organization in your area or spend some time volunteering in your local park. Anything you do to help this beautiful planet will be repaid to you many times over. For more information, please visit Leave No Trace at www.lnt.org or call 303/442-8222 or 800/332-4100.