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The Best of Athens & the Greek Islands

The Acropolis, the theater at Epidaurus, the palace at Knossos—Greece’s ancient wonders are legendary, enough in themselves to lure you to Athens and environs. Equally compelling is all that blue sky, that warm blue sea, and natural beauty that at times can seem almost mystical. But there’s also so much else: The beaches, some of the world’s most hedonistic places to stay, simple tavernas where a meal on the terrace can seem like the feast of a lifetime. Just the experience of sitting, watching, and taking it all in can be profound. To help you enjoy your time in Greece to the fullest, here’s what we consider to be the best of the best.

The best greek travel experiences

Enjoy a taverna meal under the stars: You can experience this pleasure anywhere in Greece, of course—maybe on an island with the sea in view, or in the countryside, with the scent of pine in the air, or even in busy, noisy Athens. The food is usually simple but fresh and delicious, the pace is almost always easygoing, and the spectacle of life buzzing around you is endlessly entertaining, like being in the theater. See “Where to Eat” sections throughout chapters 4 through 11.

Gasp at the Santorini caldera: The cliffs glimmer in transcendent light, white villages look like a dusting of snow on the cliff tops, and boats sailing in and out of the harbor far below appear almost Homeric. Come sunset, one of Greece’s most photogenic spectacles is a reliable show on this island where the sky is usually cloudless. See p. 183.

Gaze at the Acropolis, Athens: You don’t have to go out of your way to find a vantage point. The best approach is to let the sight take you unawares—let it catch you by surprise as you look up from a narrow side street or traffic-choked square. In fact, the more mundane the surroundings from which you catch a glimpse of the timeless pediments and columns, the more remarkable this ancient wonder seems. One prime spot is the Grand Promenade; even Athenians get a thrill every time they follow this walkway around the base of the Acropolis Hill past some of the greatest monuments of antiquity. Think of the experience as time travel. See p. 78.

Get into the rhythms of Lalaria Beach, Skiathos: Greece’s beaches are among the most beautiful in the world, but nothing quite prepares you for the approach to this almost mystical cove in the Sporades archipelago. At first you won’t quite know what that murmur is. Then you slowly become accustomed to the soft rumble of white marble stones rolling back and forth in the surf, amplified by sea cliffs dappled by the play of sun and turquoise water. See p. 286.

Descend onto the Lasithi Plateau, Crete: First the road climbs and climbs; then suddenly you reach the summit of the pass and at your feet spreads a high haven of orchards and fields, studded with windmills and protected by a tidy ring of mountains. Your explorations can include a cave that’s one of the alleged birthplaces of Zeus—it’s not hard to believe a god would choose to be born up here, where the biggest pleasure is simply experiencing a slice of rural Cretan life. See p. 251.

Catch your first glimpse of Skyros Town, Skyros: This hilltop hora appears to defy gravity—at first sight the white houses clinging to a rocky mount high above the coastal plain look like a mirage. Make the ascent to the upper town, where a walk along the steep, narrow lanes only heightens the illusion. See p. 296.

Succumb to the simple charms of Mykonos: For all its glitz and glamour, worldly Mykonos shows off its best side in Hora, where wooden balconies hang from square white houses, outdoor staircases are lined with pots of geraniums, and oleander and hibiscus scent the air. Most picturesque of all is the Little Venice quarter, where the island’s sea captains built their homes so close to the water’s edge that waves wash against the lower floors. See p. 143.

best Encounters with the Ancient Greeks

Envision life as it once was in the Agora: Athens has no shortage of ancient ruins, but those of the Agora, the marketplace and social center of the ancient city, might be the most evocative. Even though most of the shops and stoas have been reduced to rubble, just enough remains (including the best-preserved Greek temple in the world and an ancient clock tower and weather station) to give you an idea of what the place must have been like when Socrates sat with his students on shady porticos and vendors hawked spices and oils. See p. 88.

Encounter the gods on Delos: One of the most sacred places for ancient Greeks still inspires, even in jumbled ruin. As you walk among temples and skirt the shores of the sacred lake, you’ll get a sense of what a trip to this island—the central point of the Cyclades—might have meant to a pilgrim of long ago. See p. 156.

Look out to sea from the Temple of Poseidon: You only have to make the pleasant trip down the Attic coast to Sounion to appreciate how ancient Greeks understood the concept that location is everything. It’s easy to imagine how the sight of the majestic temple warmed the hearts of sailors returning to Athens after months at sea; you can even recreate the experience with a swim from the rocks below the site. See p. 100.

Walk beneath the pines in Olympia: The superheroes who bring most visitors to Olympia are not gods and artists but ancient athletes. Remnants of the city’s games, inaugurated in 776 b.c., are copious; the stadium, gymnasium, training hall, and dormitories are scattered around the foot of the Kronion Hill. So vivid is the experience that you wouldn’t be completely shocked to come upon a naked pankration competitor rubbing himself down with olive oil. See p. 126.

Gaze from the Acrocorinth: Atop one of the world’s most remarkable fortresses, high above the isthmus and the Corinth Plain, you seem to be sharing time and space with the Greek and Roman inhabitants of one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the ancient world. In those less polluted days, they had an even more far-reaching view—all the way to the gleaming columns of the Acropolis in Athens. See p. 118.

Consult the oracle at Delphi: No other ancient site is quite as mysterious and alluring as this sanctuary to Apollo, nestled amid olive groves high above the Gulf of Corinth on the flanks of Mount Parnassus. It’s easy to see why the spot was so transporting for the ancients, who flocked here to seek the enigmatic counsel of Apollo. See p. 130.

Take a bow in the theater at Epidaurus: Even the inevitable crop of stage-struck wannabes belting out show tunes doesn’t detract from the thrill of standing on the spot where ancient actors performed the Greek classics when they were new. The 55 tiers of limestone seats remain much as they were, and acoustics are so sharp that a stage whisper can be heard at the top of the house. See p. 126.

Admire ancient marbles on Paros: Parian marble has a way of catching your gaze and not letting go. After all, the most famous statue in the world, the Venus de Milo, is sculpted from the translucently white and luminescent stone quarried on this island in the Cyclades. On the back lanes of Parikia you may also be intrigued by a much less formal display: Bits and pieces of columns and pediments, debris from ancient temples, are wedged willy-nilly into the walls of the 13th-century Venetian kastro, a head-spinning glimpse into civilizations past. See p. 167.

Greece’s best Museum Moments

Be mesmerized by ancient storytelling in the Acropolis Museum: More than any other ancient pieces, the exquisitely carved Parthenon friezes capture fascinating snippets of divinity and humanity—in one, the goddess Athena Nike fastens her sandal (something you didn’t think goddesses had to do). As priests, soldiers, and ordinary citizens parade across the marble strip, you almost want to jump in and join the procession. See p. 80.

Lose track of time in Athens’ National Archaeological Museum: You don’t have to be a classics scholar to appreciate the embarrassment of riches here. There’s no need to be methodical: Just wander and stop in front of the pieces that catch your eye—all those figures frozen in marble for eternity; all that gold, jewelry, and pottery. Irresistible favorites are the colorful frescoes depicting residents of the Minoan settlement of Akrotiri on Santorini, going about their everyday lives more than 3,500 years ago. See p. 94.

Regard the Minoan frescoes in the Archaeological Museum in Iraklion: The athletes, dancers, and other subjects seem to reach across the millennia and touch us—you can understand why a modern French archaeologist, looking at a 4,000-year-old scene of flounce-skirted court ladies, exclaimed, “Les Parisiennes!,” giving the fresco its modern nickname. See p. 245.

Enjoy frieze frenzy at the Archaeological Museum on Paros: The Parthenon scenes in Athens aren’t Greece’s only famous marble carvings. At the Archaeological Museum in Parikia, a fragment of the Parian Chronicle captures a march of Alexander the Great and other scenes from Greece’s distant past. Another frieze nearby portrays the poet Archilochus, a 7th-century-b.c. master of the bon mot who famously sniped “‘tis thy friends that make thee choke with rage.” See p. 151.

Admire the figures in the Museum of Cycladic Art in Athens: It’s hard to distinguish these smooth, oblong, elongated figures from the modern pieces they’ve inspired by Henry Moore, Picasso, and Modigliani. More than 300 of these 3,500-year-old masterworks are housed in this Athens museum’s light-filled modern galleries. Their timelessness is haunting. See p. 97.

Surround yourself with statues at the Achilleion on Corfu: Few palaces are more beautifully situated, amid seaside gardens, and few are more ostentatious. Neoclassical, frescoed salons are filled with a forest of marble gods and goddesses, with Trojan War hero Achilles leading the pack. See p. 336.

Greece’s best Small Towns

Meander into Anafiotika: Charming, overused as the word is, really does apply to this village-unto-itself within the great city of Athens. The lower slopes of the Acropolis, just above the Plaka, were settled by craftsmen from the island of Anafi who came to Athens in the mid–19th century to work on the new buildings of the revived capital; here they recreated their homeland with stepped streets and square white houses. Blue shutters, blue-domed chapels, balconies with bougainvillea spilling over the railings—you’ll feel like you’ve been whisked off to a Cycladic island. See p. 87.

Wander around Rhodes’s Old Town: Ancient, crusaders knights, Italian nobles, Ottoman lords, Italian aristocrats—who hasn’t left their mark on what’s arguably the most continuously inhabited medieval town in Europe? Behind the circuit of massive town walls, a maze of lanes presents a delight at every turn—beautiful mosques, fountains burbling in quiet squares, bright pink flowers cascading over balconies. See p. 208.

Take in the Venetian Harbor in Chania: Find a spot on the western side of the harbor in this Cretan port city—maybe the terrace of the Firkas, the waterside fortress the Venetians built—and take in the view. The shimmering sea, a lighthouse, and waterside palaces are rendered even more exotic by the presence of mosques and minarets the Turks left behind. See p. 266.

Explore the Tragaea villages, Naxos: Mazes of white houses interspersed with little chapels appear on pine-clad hillsides, Venetian towers cling to rocky spires, and boulders are strewn across green valleys carpeted with olive groves and lemon orchards. The highest and most noble village is Apiranthos, where streets are paved in marble and the houses are made of rough, gray stone hewn from the mountain. See p. 165.

Settle in for a while in Vamos, Crete: You’ll get a taste of rural Greece at Vamos Traditional Village, an unusual inn that’s a collection of houses spread around an old farming community amid orchards, fields, and vineyards east of Chania. Accommodations are more homey than fancy—being amid the rhythm of everyday Greek life is the real luxury. See p. 262.

Savor the spectacle of Hora, Folegandros: This sparkling white traditional village is a throwback to the Middle Ages, with interlocking tree-shaded squares and white cubical houses that huddle inside a Venetian castle and teeter on the edge of sea cliffs. Overlooking it all, atop a zigzag path, is the glistening white Church of Kimisis tis Theotokou (Mother of God). See p. 197.

Greece’s most Fun Family Outings

Browse the Central Market, Athens: Big, noisy, smelly, and fragrant, this market’s indoor and outdoor stalls bring together all the food of Greece, from exotic denizens of the deep to country cheeses and swinging meat carcasses. It’s one of the city’s top culinary experiences. Your kids might never settle again for that boring stuff you pack in their school lunches. See p. 93.

Sail through the National Marine Park of Alonnisos Northern Sporades: Dolphins will escort your cruise through pristine waters off an archipelago that’s home to creatures as diverse as the shy Mediterranean monk seal and the mythical Cyclops (the cave where the one-eyed monster was blinded by Odysseus, according to Homer, is in the park). A swim in a secluded cove tops off the experience. See p. 294.

Squeeze into Spilia Skotini (Dark Cave), Skiathos: Even in the company of a boatload of camera-clicking fellow explorers, you and your young companions may feel an almost Robinson Crusoe-like sense of discovery as you float into this spectacular sea grotto. The splash of waves, the shimmer of the sea, and the luster of the light all conspire to transport everyone aboard into a watery fantasy world. See p. 286.

Hike the Samaria Gorge: Yes, it will seem that you share the trail with just about every other traveler of all ages on the planet, but finding yourself in canyons only 3m (10 ft.) wide and 600m (1,969 ft.) deep is a profound experience nonetheless. It’s all the more exhilarating when an eagle soars overhead and a kri-kri, the shy, endangered Cretan wild goat, makes a rare appearance. See p. 270.

See Athens from atop Mount Lycabettus: Of the many heights in the capital, this craggy, pine-covered rise—Athens’s highest hill—provides the best vantage point. You don’t have to be a kid to think the ride up on the Teleferik (funicular) is a heck of a lot of fun, and the walk back down into Kolonaki is an adventure. You’ll get a kick out of being so high above Athens, seeing the city spread out at your feet and the Aegean glistening in the distance. See p. 96.

Greece’s best Seaside Escapes

Cruise along the southwestern coast of Crete: Even on a public ferry, you’ll feel like Odysseus or some other intrepid explorer as you chug past the mouths of mountain gorges, groves of cypress, hidden coves, and, every so often, a white-clad village tucked far away from the modern world. See p. 269.

Linger over lunch at Agios Sostis, Mykonos: Paradise and Super Paradise are the island’s famous beaches, but Agios Sostis’s crescent of sand is much more paradisiacal—and finding such a tranquil spot on famously boisterous Mykonos is even more satisfying. The water is warm, the sands are soft, and a lunch of grilled fish or pork is served beneath a flowering vine at a simple beachside taverna. See p. 155.

Soak in a hot spring at Bros Therma, Kos: For one of Greece’s most relaxing and memorable beach experiences, head to Bros Therma on the Dodecanese island of Kos, where sulfurous water bubbles to the surface of a natural, boulder-enclosed pool on the beach. Soak up therapeutic benefits—treatment of rheumatism and arthritis, among other ailments—then plunge into the cooler sea. See p. 229.

Feel the golden sands between your toes on Koukounaries Beach, Skiathos: The perfect crescent backed by pines is a Greek-isle fantasy. Your surfside stroll will not be a solitary experience, but a short walk through shady, sandy-floored groves will deliver you to a string of quieter sands on the Mandraki Peninsula of this popular Sporades island. See p. 286.

Take a stroll on the Nafplion Promenade: It’s hard to believe that this beautiful, busy Peloponnesian town—a fought-over prize for Turks and Venetians—is only a few steps behind you as you make your way along the Gulf of Argos, with blue water shimmering and gentle waves crashing onto the rocks below you. At the end of the walk you can dip into the sea beneath the Acronafplia Fortress at Arvanitia—one of the loveliest town beaches anywhere. See p. 124.

See the sea through the Portara, Naxos: The great unfinished ancient temple doorway may lead to nowhere, but it beautifully frames the blue sea and the heights of Naxos Town’s Venetian Kastro towering against the blue sky. You almost want to believe the legend that the massive marble portal was meant to be the entrance to the palace that the god Dionysus built for his lover, Ariadne. Taking a swim here is truly a divine experience. See p. 164.

Sail into Symi harbor: A beautiful, broad, horseshoe-shaped expanse of blue sea is lined with pastel-colored houses and gracious neoclassical mansions from this Dodecanese island’s shipbuilding and sponge-fishing heydays. The photogenic assemblage is all the more striking because the rest of the little island is rough and rugged, though with so many little chapels and remote monasteries that islanders claim you can worship in a different sanctuary every day of the year. See p. 216.

Get a good long look at Myrtos Beach: Even from the hillside high above, this stretch of sand on the northwestern coat of Kefalonia is a stunner, backed by white cliffs and deep green forests and washed by turquoise waters. You won’t be able to resist descending to sun and swim, and nearby Assos is beautiful in a quieter way, a gentle bay surrounded by pines beneath a ruined castle. See p. 343.

most Transporting Religious Moments in Greece

Walk down to the sea at Moni Gouverneto, Crete: Greece’s largest island is generously graced with beautiful monasteries, but this one on the Akrotiri Peninsula adds a bit of a thrill—a walk that begins in a tranquil courtyard and descends through a ravine etched with millennia-old hermitages to an isolated cove where a swim seems almost like a ritualistic plunge. See p. 267.

Climb Profitis Elias o Pilos, Sifnos: It’s quite a trek up the 850m-tall (2,789-ft.) mountain, the highest on this Cycladean island, to the isolated monastery at the summit. You’ll understand the meaning of “Pilos,” or “high one.” A monk may be on hand to offer a glass of ice-cold water, and the views seem to extend across the entire Aegean Sea. See p. 179.

Tune into the spiritual aura of the Cave of the Apocalypse, Patmos: In the cave hermitage of St. John the Divine, you’ll be surrounded by many icons, the very stone that served as the saintly pillow, and a sense of holiness. You might even hear “a great voice, as of a trumpet” that rang through a cleft in the overhang and delivered the Book of the Apocalypse, or Revelation. See p. 233.

Count church domes from the Kastro in Skopelos Town, Skopelos: In this Sporades island capital—one of the most appealing towns in Greece—123 churches punctuate the lanes that climb the hillside. The sight of so many blue domes will most likely inspire you to get to your feet and start exploring. See p. 289.

Chance upon Kapnikarea Church, Athens: Right in the middle of busy, shop-lined Ermou Street, this little Byzantine gem sits on the site of an ancient temple to Athena and incorporates Roman columns from the Forum. Just setting eyes on the old stones and carvings whisks you away from the contemporary buzz to a different time and place. See p. 88.

Find all the doors to the Church of the Hundred Doors, Paros: One of the oldest churches in the world is also, from the moment you step through the gates into the lemon-scented courtyard, one of the most other-worldly, steeped in legend. Founded in the 4th century, the landmark is filled with frescoes, icons, and even reminders of a famous murder. See p. 170.

Huff and puff your way up to the Meteora monasteries: These six religious communities are awash in colorful frescoes, but the real visual treat is their gravity-defying settings, clinging to pinnacles high above the plain of Thessaly. To reach these fascinating monasteries, you’ll climb what seem to be endless stairways—a vast improvement over the ladders and baskets the monks once had to use. See p. 134.

The best Luxury Retreats in Greece

Aqua Blu, Kos: A sensational pool terrace merges seamlessly with handsome lounges, while guest rooms are design statements combining contemporary chic with comfort, intimacy, and elegance. Guests are pampered with sea views, terraces, and such perks as fireplaces and private pools in some rooms and suites. Somehow the design-magazine-worthy surroundings don’t dampen the staff’s down-to-earth hospitality. See p. 224.

Atrium Hotel, Skiathos: Beautiful accommodations ranging from doubles to lavish maisonettes tumble down a pine-clad hillside above one of the island’s nicest beaches, commanding endless sea views from multiple terraces and outdoor living spaces. Wood and warm stone are accented with antiques and island-style furnishings, all carefully chosen by the architect-family that built and still runs this stunning retreat. See p. 293.

Cavo Tagoo, Mykonos: Huge rooms and suites, set amid lovely gardens, are filled with high-tech gadgetry, gorgeous handcrafted furnishings, sunken tubs, and other soothing comforts. Most rooms have sea-facing terraces, many with private pools, built-in divans, and dining tables surrounded by exotic plantings. A thoroughly indulgent al fresco island experience. See p. 146.

Elounda Mare, Crete: At this low-key, intimate, idyllic retreat—one of Europe’s truly great getaways—swanky bungalows and other handsome guest quarters are tucked into verdant seaside gardens. All are furnished elegantly in traditional Cretan style, and expansive views extend over the Gulf of Elounda. A sandy beach and all sorts of shady seaside nooks are among many, many amenities. See p. 273.

Esperas, Santorini: You’ll feel like a cliff dweller at this welcoming enclave of traditional houses teetering on the edge of the caldera in Ia, an enchanted perch that seems like a world unto itself. Soak in stupendous views from the private terraces, beautiful pool and terrace, and tasteful accommodations filled with traditional island furnishings. See p. 184.

Kapsaliana Village Hotel, Crete: A rustic hamlet of honey-colored stone in hilly countryside above Rethymnon was once part the holdings of the Arkadi monastery; it has now been shaped into a distinctive and relaxing country getaway. Village houses along the old lanes have been redone with designer flair, with contemporary furnishings in terraced guest rooms offset by stone walls, arches, and wood beams. See p. 253.

Melenos Lindos Hotel, Lindos, Rhodes: An authentically Lindian-style villa is a work of art, where hand-painted tiles, local antiques, handcrafted lamps, and weavings provide the backdrop for an almost otherworldly experience on a pine-scented hillside. Huge Lydian beds make anyone feel like a reclining pasha, while rooms open to large terraces, embellished with statuary and architectural fragments, looking out to an idyllic cove. See p. 205.

Petra Hotel and Apartments, Patmos: The Stergiou family has created a luxurious haven on a hillside above Grikos Bay, lavishing personal attention on guests in spacious, beautifully appointed rooms and one- and two-bedroom suites that exude island style. Most quarters have balconies or open to terraces furnished with pillowed divans for some Greek-island-style lounging. The main veranda is a gracious living space, a pool glistens off to one side, and sandy Grikos beach is just at the bottom of the lane. See p. 232.

St. George Lycabettus Hotel, Athens: Large, nicely decorated guest rooms (each floor has a different theme, from art nouveau to minimalism) and a beautiful rooftop pool do justice to a wonderful location—the pine-scented slopes of Lycabettus hill just above the designer-boutique-lined streets of Kolonaki. The choicest quarters have views of the Acropolis. See p. 66.

Spirit of the Knights, Rhodes City: Five luxurious suites and a cozily medieval chamber are tucked away in a beautifully restored Ottoman house in the quietest part of Old Rhodes Town. Hand-painted ceilings, original beams, Ottoman stained glass, marble baths, rich carpets and textiles, and other exquisite details embellish the exotic surroundings, while a beautiful courtyard is cooled by a splashing fountain. See p. 203.

Villa Marandi, Naxos: A stone-and-stucco villa set in seaside gardens surrounding a large pool fulfills just about anyone’s fantasy of a Greek-island getaway. Beautifully designed and maintained rooms are large, stylish, and supremely comfortable; all have large, well-furnished terraces, most with sea views. A private strip of beach lies at the end of the garden path, and an expert staff serves cocktails and inspired Mediterranean-style meals on a beautiful poolside terrace. See p. 160.

The best affordable Greek Getaways

Carbonaki Hotel, Mykonos: On Greece’s most expensive island, there’s no need to break the bank or sacrifice style and comfort. Just about all of these simply furnished but stylish rooms surround a beautiful, multilevel courtyard garden with a plunge pool, ensuring quiet (an especially welcome feature at night, when late-night revelers make their way home along the little lane out front). See p. 148.

Fresh Hotel, Athens: Soothing minimalist design, along with a rooftop pool, sun deck, and Zen-like spa, put a fresh face on the capital’s gritty Omonia neighborhood. The youthful staff is helpful, and the laid-back ambiance is soothing. Among many modern amenities in the stylish, colorful rooms are window blinds that can be controlled from the beds—perfect for night owls not ready to face the morning sun. See p. 68.

Hotel Perivoli, Nafplion: A hillside planted with citrus and olive groves is a magical setting for this smart, comfortable little Peloponnese resort where handsome rooms all open to terraces and balconies facing a pool and, glistening in the distance, the Gulf of Argos. See p. 113.

Kalimera Archanes Village, Crete: Tucked away in a lush walled garden among Archanes’ lively lanes and squares of neoclassical houses, four meticulously restored 19th-century stone houses have been tastefully and traditionally furnished and accented with stone and beams. See p. 252.

Marco Polo Mansion, Rhodes City: This 15th-century Ottoman mansion set in a lush garden is positively transcending. Each room is distinctive—one was a harem, another a hamam, another is lined with kilims—and all are decorated in deep hues that show off low-lying couches and stunning antiques. Excellent meals are served in the garden, where non-guests are also welcome to share in one of the island’s nicest dining experiences. See p. 204.

Medieval Inn, Rhodes Old Town: No medieval gloom and doom here: This whitewashed old house surrounding a flower-filled courtyard is full of bright colors. Although small and fairly basic, rooms are an excellent value, given their combination of comfort, ambiance, and amenities—including a sunny roof terrace that invites long hours of lounging. See p. 205.

Perleas Mansion, Chios: Your neighbors at this walled estate in the citrus-orchard filled Kambos district will be some of Greece’s wealthiest shipping families. But the comfortable stone mansion and two surrounding cottages are soundly rooted in the simple pleasures of gracious country living, amid trees filled with birdsong. Rooms filled with antiques and art works only add to the charm. See p. 314.

S. Nikolis Hotel and Apartments, Rhodes Old Town: You’d be hard-pressed to find a better place to soak in medieval ambiance than this charming and atmospheric cluster of houses from 1300. They’re filled with antiques and modern amenities and decorated with personal flair, all surrounding a flower-filled courtyard. See p. 204.

Votsala Hotel, Lesbos: Guests come back to the coast north of Mytilini time and again to enjoy a stay that that one-ups any typical resort experience. Seaside gardens, home-cooked meals beneath flowering trees, and breezy terraced rooms are matched by the almost legendary hospitality of hosts Yiannis, Daphne, and their family. See p. 304.

Greece’s best Places to Eat

Avli, Rethymnon, Crete: This veritable temple to Cretan cuisine introduces diners to the freshest island ingredients. Fish and lamb, of course, appear in many different guises, as do mountain greens and other fresh vegetables, all served in a delightfully romantic garden, an arched dining room, and on a narrow lane out front. High-style accommodations, where Asian pieces and contemporary pieces are set against stone walls and wood beams, are tucked into nearby houses surrounding the restaurant garden. See p. 255.

Benetos Restaurant, Patmos: Benetos Matthaiou and his American wife, Susan, make it their business to deliver one of this Dodecanese island’s nicest dining experiences, on the terrace of a Tuscan-style villa at the edge of the sea. Fresh ingredients come from gardens on the property and nearby waters, showing up in dishes such as shrimp in phyllo, fresh fish baked in a citrus sauce, or a simple arugula salad with shaved Parmesan. See p. 232.

Kronio, Lasithi Plateau: This cozy and welcoming establishment serves the finest food on Crete’s Lasithi Plateau, from thick lamb stews to homemade bread and cheese-stuffed pies. Service is so warm and welcoming that you may want to settle in for awhile—and you may, in nicely appointed rooms in the proprietors’ countryside guesthouse, Maison Kronio, where a glistening swimming pool is among the comforts. See p. 252.

Lithos, Naxos: A stylishly contemporary dining room tucked far away from the clamor of the waterfront beneath the walls of the Kastro is a quiet refuge of glistening white walls and floors accented with bright colors. These crisp surroundings are as fresh as the kitchen’s simple yet satisfying creations, a pleasant change from standard taverna fare. See p. 161.

Metaxy Mas, Santorini: An out-of-the-way location in the countryside doesn’t seem to deter eager diners, who pack into this stone-walled dining room and terrace from noon until the wee hours. The draws on this sophisticated island? Simple time-honored dishes made with the freshest ingredients. See p. 188.

Selene, Santorini: This elegant retreat, occupying an old manor house in Pyrgos, consistently tops best-in-Greece lists and works its magic from the moment you step into the handsome dining room or onto the candlelit terrace overlooking vineyards and the distant sea. Dishes such as octopus with smoked eggplant, fava balls with capers, and herb-encrusted rabbit make creative use of local ingredients and are the favorites of haute-cuisine magazines. See p. 187.

Taverna Sklithiri, Skiathos: If you’re not swept away by the setting—a flowery terrace right on a golden beach with a turquoise sea almost lapping up against the tables—you really don’t belong on a Greek island. Off the grill comes, of course, the freshest fish, along with simply prepared vegetables and all manner of other seafood, including plump mussels roasted in white wine. See p. 283.

The Well of the Turk, Chania, Crete: To find your way to this all-but-hidden restaurant at the heart of the old Turkish quarter south of the Venetian Harbor, keep your eye on the minaret, and ask for directions along the way. An enticing selection of Greek and Middle Eastern appetizers, juicy lamb dishes, meatballs mixed with eggplant, and other specialties are served on the ground floor of a Turkish house and in a lovely courtyard. See p. 263.

To Maereio, Mykonos: When winter sets in back home, you’ll wistfully remember this delightful spot on a quiet lane set apart from the Mykonos bustle—simple and atmospheric, serving good traditional fare at reasonable prices. Country sausage, meatballs, zucchini fritters, and other delicious fare fill the tempting, ever-changing menu, presented in a welcoming room and at a few tables in front. See p. 150.