Frommer’s Athens and the Greek Islands, 2nd Edition

This is Athens: Exciting, exasperating, worldly, and oh so hot. Home to gods, goddesses, and some of history’s greatest philosophers and storytellers, Athens is an ancient city with a modern edge. Glorious classical monuments are a backdrop for the city’s greatest resource, 4 million Athenians—cosmopolitan, hedonistic, and forward-thinking, despite their nation’s recent economic perils.

As you explore Athens—seeing the Acropolis, wandering the Agora, visiting ancient temples and Byzantine churches—take a siga, siga (slowly, slowly) approach. Walk streets lined with neoclassical mansions; take in the scents; linger in courtyard gardens and on rooftop terraces. For cool respite head to the National Gardens, and for gorgeous sunsets perch on the peak of Lycabettus hill. Check out stalls laden with fresh fruit, nuts, and mounds of Aegean seafood in the 19th-century glass-and-steel Central Market. Discover the urban chic of Gazi, Pyssri, and other once-neglected downtown neighborhoods. You’ll find that Athens is beautiful and gritty, ancient and modern, sultry and restless, frustrating yet seductive, and most of all—like the sight of the Acropolis looming above it all—rather unforgettable.

By plane The Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos (www.aia.gr;

210/353-0000), 27km (17 miles) northeast of Athens, is usually called “Venizelos,” or “Spata” after the nearest town. Venizelos is a large, modern facility, with plenty to keep you busy, including a small museum with rotating art exhibits and ruins found during the airport’s construction. The Greek National Tourism Organization has an information desk in the arrivals hall. The baggage storage (left luggage) facility at one end of the main terminal arrivals area is open 24 hours a day and charges 7.50€ per piece for 6 hours and 13€ for 24 hours.

The Metro (www.amel.gr) is the most convenient and fastest way to travel between the airport and downtown. A sleek Metro station is connected to the terminal via moving walkways, with trains departing every half-hour from 6:30am to 11:30pm (trains from the city to the airport run 5:50am to 10:50pm). The trip takes roughly 40 minutes. A one-way fare is 10€ for one person, 18€ for two people, and 24€ for three; a 48-hour round-trip fare is 18€.

Buses (www.oasa.gr) depart 24 hours a day from outside the arrivals hall of the main terminal building (doors 4 and 5). One-way fare from the airport to Syntagma Square (X95) or to the port of Piraeus (X96) is 6€. The X95 runs every 10 minutes from 7am to 10pm (10pm–7am, it’s every 30 minutes). The X96 runs every 20 minutes from 7am to 10pm (10pm–7am, it’s every 40 minutes). You can buy a ticket from a booth beside the bus stop or on the bus; you must validate your ticket by punching it in the machine within the bus. If you’re going from the airport to the port of Rafina (departure point for many boats to the Cyclades), you can take a KTEL bus; they run every 40 minutes between 4:45am and 10:20pm, leaving from a stop outside the terminal opposite the Sofitel Hotel. You may buy the 3€ ticket on the bus.

The Proastiakos-Suburban Railway is a handy option for travelers heading elsewhere in Greece. It runs directly to Larissa Station, departing from the same platforms as the Metro every 15 minutes between 6:10am and 9:45pm; the trip takes 38 minutes and the fare is 10€. One train per hour continues to Corinth and onto Kiato in the Peloponnese. Other routes connect the airport and the station and the port of Piraeus, with service between 6am and 11pm; the trip takes a little over an hour, less on some runs, and costs 10€. For more information, go to www.trainose.gr, though it’s wise to ask the helpful staff in the airport tourist office for help in pinning down the site’s somewhat confusing schedules. For more information on public transport, see p. 60.

Taxis from the airport to downtown Athens charge a flat rate that includes tolls and luggage. Once you are in the taxi, make sure the meter is set on the correct tariff (tariff 1 is charged 5am–midnight; tariff 2 midnight–5am). Fare to the center is 38€, late-night 54€. Depending on traffic, the drive can take under 30 minutes or well over an hour—something to remember when you return to the airport. Rental cars, including those from big names like Hertz, Avis, and Alamo, are available at the airport.

By Car If you arrive by car via Corinth (to the southwest), the signs into Athens will direct you fairly clearly to Omonia Square, which you will enter from the west along Ayiou Konstantinou. In Omonia, signs should direct you toward Syntagma Square and other points in central Athens (signs in Omonia disappear mysteriously). If you arrive via Thessaloniki (to the north), signs pointing you into central Athens are few and far between. It’s not a good idea to attempt this for the first time after dark. Your best bet is to look for the Acropolis and head toward it until you see signs for Omonia or Syntagma squares. Best advice: avoid driving in Athens at all—turn in your rental car at the airport (off the peripheral road and clearly marked as you approach the city from any direction).

By bus There are two main stations for KTEL (www.ktel.org), the national bus company, near each other in the northwestern part of the city. Terminal A, 100 Kifissou (

210/512-9233), handles buses to and from the Peloponnese and parts of Northern Greece; this terminal is often referred to as Kifissou, or Kifissou Terminal A. Terminal B (260 Liossion St.;

210/831-7096) handles buses to and from Central Greece (including Delphi, Thebes, Evvia, and Meteora) and some destinations north and east of Athens; this terminal is often referred to as Liossion or Liossion Terminal B. Public bus no. 051 (1.40€) runs from Kifissou to Menandrou street, off Omonia Square, for easy connection to the Omonia Metro station. Bus 420 runs from Kifissou to Piraeus harbor (the stop near the port is at Akti Kondili and Thermopilon), though it’s quicker and easier to take a taxi or bus 051 to Omonia and get on a Metro train to Piraeus. Express bus 93 links Kifissou with the airport (6€, buy your ticket from a stand inside the station). To travel from Liossion to central Athens or Piraeus, take any bus from the Praktoria stop across from the station entrance to the Attiki Metro stop. Or you can take a taxi from either station to Syntagma Square; the fare should cost 8€ to 18€, and if traffic is light, the ride is less than 20 minutes, but it can take an hour.

A third bus station, the Mavromateon terminal (www.ktelattikis.gr;

210/880-8080; metro Victoria Square) is at the entrance to Areos Park at Patission and Alexandras, just north of Omonia Square near the Archaeological Museum. Also known as the Areos Park Terminal, the station handles buses for most destinations in Attica, including Sounion. The closest Metro station, Victoria Square, is 2 blocks away.

The multiple terminals can be confusing, but the helpful staff at visitor information offices (see p. 58), along with hotel concierges, can usually tell you which bus leaves from where and how to get to the right terminal. On a positive note, bus travel will be made easier in the mid-2020s, when a new central bus depot, with Metro connections, is slated to open in outlying Eleonas.

By train Trains from the south and west arrive at the Peloponnese station (Stathmos Peloponnisou;

210/513-1601), about a mile northwest of Omonia Square on Sidirodromeon. Trains from the north arrive at Larissa station (Stathmos Larissis;

210/529-8837), just across the tracks from the Peloponnese station on Deligianni. From the Larissa Metro station near both train stations, you can easily reach Omonia, Syntagma, and other central points on line 2 (Larissa). A taxi to the center of town should cost about 10€.

By boat Most boats arrive at and depart from Piraeus, Athens’s main seaport, 11km (7 miles) southwest of the city center. Free shuttle buses will take you from your boat to a stop near the Piraeus Metro station. It’s a 20-minute ride (fare 1.40€) to Monastiraki, Omonia, and Thissio Metro stations. The far slower bus 040 (fare 1.40€) runs from Piraeus to central Athens (with a stop at Filellinon, off Syntagma Square) every 15 minutes between 5am and 1am (hourly 1am–5am). To get to Athens International Airport from Piraeus, you can take the X96 bus (6€) or the Metro (10€; change at Monastiraki station). You may prefer to take a taxi to avoid the trip from your boat to the bus stop or subway terminal, but be prepared for serious bargaining: The fare on the meter from Piraeus to Syntagma should be 15€ to 20€, but many drivers offer a flat fare, which can be as much as 30€.

If you arrive at Piraeus by hydrofoil, you’ll probably dock at Zea Marina harbor, about a dozen blocks south across the peninsula from the main harbor. Getting a taxi from Zea Marina into Athens can involve a wait of an hour or more—and cab drivers usually drive hard bargains. To avoid the wait, walk up the hill from the hydrofoil station to catch bus 905 (fare 1.40€), which connects Zea to the Piraeus Metro station, where you can continue into Athens. You can buy a ticket from the stand near the bus stop. If you arrive late at night, however, you may be out of luck, as the ticket stand may be closed.

If you disembark at the port of Rafina (about an hour’s bus ride east of Athens), you’ll see a bus stop up the hill from the pier. Inquire about the bus to Athens; it runs often and will take you to the Mavromateon/Areos Park bus terminal, near the junction of Leoforos Alexandras and Patission. The terminal is two blocks from the Victoria Square Metro stop and about 25 minutes by trolley from Syntagma Square.

The main office of the Greek National Tourism Organization (abbreviated GNTO in English-speaking countries, EOT in Greece) is well off the beaten tourist path at 7 Tsoha St., Ambelokipi (www.visitgreece.gr;

210/870-0000; metro Ambelokipi). The office is only open Monday through Friday, 8am to 3pm. Far more convenient is the GNTO information office opposite the Acropolis Museum at Dionissiou Aeropagitou 18–20 (

210/331-0392; metro Akropoli; Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am–4pm). Another GNTO information desk (

210/345-0445) is in the airport arrivals hall. Available 24 hours a day, the tourist police (

210/171) speak English as well as other languages, and will help you with problems or emergencies. An excellent online resource, Matt Barrett’s Athens Survival Guide (www.athensguide.com), offers a personalized insider’s take on the city plus lots of practical information.

Think of central Athens as an almost perfect equilateral triangle, with its points at Syntagma (Constitution) Square, Omonia (Harmony) Square, and Monastiraki (Little Monastery) Square, near the Acropolis. The area bounded by Syntagma, Omonia, and Monastiraki squares is defined as the commercial center, from which cars are mostly banned. To get your bearings, look up to the Acropolis, west of Syntagma Square, and to Mount Likavitos (Lycabettus), to the northeast. From most parts of the city, you can see both.

At one time Omonia Square—Athens’s commercial hub—was considered the city center, but nowadays, most Greeks think of Syntagma Square, site of the House of Parliament, as ground zero. The two squares are connected by parallel streets, Stadiou and Panepistimiou.

West of Syntagma Square, Ermou and Mitropoleos lead slightly downhill to Monastiraki Square. From Monastiraki Square, Athinas leads north back to Omonia past the Central Market. The old warehouse district of Psyrri, now a hip enclave, is between Athinas and Ermou.

If you stand in Monastiraki Square and look south, you’ll see the Acropolis. At its foot are the Ancient Agora (p. 88) and the Plaka, Athens’s oldest neighborhood. The Plaka’s twisting labyrinth of streets can challenge even the best navigators, but the district is small enough that you can’t go far astray, and it’s a pleasant place in which to wander aimlessly. Many Athenians speak some English, and almost all are helpful to direction-seeking strangers.

Athens is a collection of many different neighborhoods, each with its own distinctive flair. Take time simply to stroll around the central city from one neighborhood into another. Part of the walk should be along the Grand Promenade, the walkway that stretches from Hadrian’s Arch past the Acropolis to the Ancient Agora, past Thissio and on to the Kerameikos cemetery.

Around the Acropolis At the base of the Acropolis and the pine-clad slopes of Lofos Filopappou (Filopappos Hill) and Lofos Mousson (Hill of the Muses) are elegant residential enclaves. The Grand Promenade leads to the Acropolis Museum, the Theater of Dionysus, and other sights.

Syntagma Square The heart of Athens is the focal point of the city’s political and civic life, from protest rallies to New Year’s celebrations. The handsome neoclassical building at the head of the square is the Greek Parliament building, formerly the Royal Palace, where you’ll see the Changing of the Guard several times a day. Adjacent to Parliament are the National (p. 85) and Zappeion (p. 87) Gardens.

Plaka Spreading below the Acropolis, Plaka is the most touristic neighborhood in the city. Its maze of narrow medieval streets—many named after Greek heroes from antiquity or the Greek War of Independence—twist past ancient sites, Byzantine churches, offbeat museums, and 19th-century homes. Restaurants and cafes line many lanes. This neighborhood can be impossibly crowded but also atmospheric, and romantic. Anafiotika (p. 87), a Cycladic-style town at the base of the Acropolis, is a tiny village within a village.

Monastiraki This neighborhood on the fringe of the Agora (p. 88) and the Roman Forum (p. 90) is best known for its flea markets. They’re open every day but are usually best—and most crowded—on Sunday. Many tavernas, cafes, and shops line the streets. The most appealing street by far is Adrianou, lined with restaurants and cafes on one side and the Agora on the other—and Acropolis views to boot.

Psyrri Between Athinas and Ermou streets, this working-class district was once derelict and forgotten; now warehouses have been converted and neoclassical houses restored. Trendy bars, restaurants, clubs, cafes, tavernas, galleries, and mezedopoleia (establishments offering “small plates”) sit side by side with some still-remaining workshops. This area bustles from late afternoon until early morning. Some outer pockets remain a bit gritty.

Gazi West of Psyrri, this bohemian enclave beats to its own modern rhythm. Locals socialize, drinks in hand, in Gazi Square, surrounded by some of the city’s coolest bars and eateries, creating a buzzing scene. Between Psyrri and Gazi is Kerameikos (p. 91), the little-visited ancient cemetery with many stunningly beautiful classical sculptures. Gazi was once an industrial wasteland where a cavernous foundry spewed black gas fumes (the name Gazi means gas); the foundry is now an arts complex, Technopolis (p. 91).

Omonia and Exarchia Time was, Omonia was a grand plateia (square), surrounded by neoclassical buildings. Today it’s gritty, encircled by an endless swirl of traffic, with some decidedly shady denizens. To the east of Omonia Square, the bohemian student neighborhood Exarchia covers 50 city blocks, crisscrossed with buzzing squares and pedestrian streets. The National Archaeological Museum (p. 94) is at the edge of Exarchia, north of Omonia Square.

Kolonaki and Lycabettus The elegant neighborhood tucked beneath the slopes of Lycabettus hill has long been a favorite address for well-to-do Athenians. The streets (many pedestrianized) are packed with designer houses, art galleries, and gathering spots. Imposing Leof Vasiliss Sofias, nicknamed the Museum Mile, is lined with neoclassical mansions, many of which now house museums (among them the Benaki; see p. 96). A funicular ride leaves all the urban chic behind for the top of Lycabettus hill (p. 96) and the spectacle of Athens laid out under your feet like a sparkling map.

Koukaki Wedged between the busy thoroughfare Syngrou and the flanks of the Filopappou Hill (see p. 81), this residential enclave is far enough off the beaten track to provide a glimpse of real Athenian life, but it’s still close to many classical sites: the Acropolis Museum and Acropolis (p. 78) are just to the north, while steep lanes lead up into hills studded with classical ruins. The convenient Syngrou-Fix Metro station is also a stop for the free shuttle to the exquisite Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (p. 100).

Getting Around

By Public Transportation

The best online source for information, with a trip planner that allows you to map out a route, is Transport for Athens (www.oasa.gr). An Ath.ena ticket, available at all subway stations, tram stops, and many bus terminals, gets you anywhere you want to go on Athens’ Metro, bus, trolley, and tram system; a plastic version, the Ath.ena card, is also available. You load the ticket or card with an amount of your choosing. Fares are 1.40€ for a single ride; a ticket covers all travel for a 90-minute period, even if you switch from a bus to a Metro train or vice versa. A day ticket costs 4.50€, a 5-day ticket is 9€. These fares don’t cover the route to the airport, which costs 10€ each way; a 22€ tourist ticket, however, includes 3 days of unlimited travel plus transport to and from the airport. Be certain to keep your ticket handy: Uniformed and plainclothes inspectors periodically check tickets and can levy a fine of up to 60€ on the spot to riders who cannot produce tickets.

The Metro runs from 5:30am to midnight Sunday through Thursday; on Friday and Saturday, trains run until 2am. All stations are wheelchair accessible. Stop at the Syntagma station or go to the GNTO (p. 58) for a system map. Even if you don’t use the Metro to get around Athens, you may want to take it from Omonia, Monastiraki, or Thissio to Piraeus to catch a boat to the islands. (Don’t miss the spectacular view of the Acropolis as the subway goes above ground by the Agora.) Three stations—Syntagma Square, Monastiraki, and Acropolis—handsomely display finds from the subway excavations. The system is continually being expanded, so expect occasional construction delays.

You can also get almost anywhere you want in central Athens or the suburbs by bus or trolley, which run 24 hours a day. Check out the Athens Urban Transport Organization (www.oasa.gr; 185) for directions, timetables, route details, and maps, or get advice from hotel concierges or staff at visitor information offices. You may not pay fares on the bus or trolley, so be sure to have a ticket with you before boarding. Tickets are sold only from machines at Metro and tram stations, or from ticket booths located next to a few bus stops around the city; newsstands and shops no longer sell tickets. To avoid finding yourself aboard a bus with no way to pay the fare, it’s a good idea to carry an extra ticket with you or to use a travel pass.

By Taxi

Taxis are inexpensive, and most drivers are honest. Even so, when you get into a taxi anytime up until midnight, check to make sure the meter is turned on and set to 1 (the daytime rate) rather than 2 (the late-night rate, which is double the price). The meter will register 1€. The meter should be set on 2 only between midnight and 5am or if you take a taxi outside the city limits; if you plan to do this, negotiate a flat rate in advance. The “1” meter rate is .34€ per kilometer within city limits, .64€ per kilometer outside city limits; the minimum fare is 2.65€. There’s a surcharge of 1€ for service to or from a port or rail or bus station, 3.20€ to or from the airport. Luggage costs .32€ per bag over 10 kg (22 lb.). Note: These prices change all the time and will almost certainly be higher by the time you visit Greece.

Don’t be surprised if the driver picks up other passengers en route; he will work out everyone’s share of the fare. If you plan to travel around Athens by taxi, carry a business card from your hotel, so you can show it to the taxi driver on your return trip.

By Car

In Athens, a car is far more trouble than convenience. The traffic is heavy, finding a parking place is extremely difficult, and much of the central city is closed to cars. You can easily get to most places instead on foot or by the city’s extensive public transport system; taxis are plentiful and fairly inexpensive, too. If you do plan on renting a car, maybe to visit Delphi or go into the Peloponnese, you’ll find many rental agencies south of Syntagma Square and in Athens International Airport. Airport rentals are especially handy because you can immediately get onto the highway network that will whisk you away from the city. See p. 56 for more on renting a car in Athens. Should you find yourself with a car to stash in Athens, a centrally located garage is Parking Menandrou, at Menandrou 22, near Omonia Square, 210/524-1027. Also central is Parking Syntagmas, Filellinon 12, near Syntagma Square, 210/324-4090. At these and other central garages expect to pay 2€ an hour and about 20€ for 24 hours.

On Foot

Since most of what you’ll want to see and do in Athens is in the city center, it’s easy to do most of your sightseeing on foot. The city has created pedestrian zones around Omonia, Syntagma, and Monastiraki squares, in the Plaka, in Kolonaki, and elsewhere. Dionissiou Areopagitou, at the southern foot of the Acropolis, is also pedestrianized, with links to the Grand Promenade past the Ancient Agora, Thissio, and Kerameikos. Stay alert, however: Athens’s multitude of motorcyclists seldom respect the rules, and a red light or stop sign is no guarantee that vehicles will stop for pedestrians.

ATHENS

ATMs Automated teller machines are common at banks throughout Athens. Use these instead of those in shops, restaurants, or currency exchanges, where rates are usually higher and you’ll have less recourse if something goes wrong—i.e., the machine eats your card. The National Bank of Greece operates a 24-hour ATM in Syntagma Square on Leoforos Vasilisis Amalias.

Banks Banks are generally open Mon–Thurs 8am–2pm, and Fri 8am–2:30pm. All banks are closed on Greek holidays. (See p. 29.)

Business Hours Even Greeks get confused by their complicated, changeable business hours. In winter, shops are generally open Mon and Wed 9am–5pm; Tues and Thurs–Fri 10am–7pm; and Sat 8:30am–3:30pm. In summer, hours are generally Mon, Wed, and Sat 8am–3pm; Tues and Thurs–Fri 8am–2pm and 5:30–10pm. Most stores in central Athens, though, remain open all day, and many in the Plaka and other tourist areas stay open from early morning until late in the evening. Department stores and supermarkets are generally open Mon–Fri 8am–8pm and Sat 8am–6pm.

Dentists & Doctors Embassies (see below) may have lists of dentists and doctors, as do some hotels. For an English-speaking doctor or dentist, also try SOS Doctor ( 201/821-2222 or online at www.sosiatroi.gr).

Embassies & Consulates See p. 356 in Chapter 12.

Emergencies In an emergency, dial 100 for the police and 171 for the tourist police. Dial 199 to report a fire and 166 for an ambulance and the hospital. Athens has a 24-hour line for foreigners, the Visitor Emergency Assistance at 112 in English and French.

Hospitals KAT, the emergency hospital in Kifissia (www.kat-hosp.gr; 213/208-6000), and Asklepion Voulas, the emergency hospital in Voula (www.asklepieio.gr; 213/216-3000), are open 24 hours a day. Evangelismos, a centrally located hospital below the Kolonaki district at Vas. Sophias 9 ( 213/204-1000), usually has English-speaking staff on duty.

Internet Access Most hotels and many bars and cafes are Wi-Fi equipped. There are Wi-Fi hot spots in Syntagma Square, Kotzia Square, Flisvos marina, and other public spaces; the airport also has free Wi-Fi.

Laundromats Easywash (easywashathens.gr) operates self-service laundries with coin-operated machines in the Plaka at Aggelou Vlachou 8 (metro Syntagma) and in Koukaki at Dimitrakopoulou 69 (metro Syngrou-Fix). Facilities are open 7am–midnight.

Lost & Found The police’s Lost and Found, Leoforos Alexandras 173 ( 100), is generally open Mon–Sat 9am–3pm. For losses on the Metro, there is an office in Syntagma station (www.stasy.gr; 210/327-9630; Mon–Fri 7am–7pm). Lost passports and other documents may be returned by the police to the appropriate embassy, so check there as well. It’s an excellent idea to travel with photocopies of your passport, prescriptions, and tickets.

Luggage Storage & Lockers There are storage facilities at Athens International Airport; there are also storage lockers at metro stations in Piraeus and Monastiraki, but they often aren’t operating for security reasons. A good alternative is Bagbnb (bagbnb.com) with facilities throughout the central city, including Syntagma and Monastiraki (often at travel agencies), where you can store a bag for about 10€ a day. If you plan to stay again at your hotel after a side trip, ask if the hotel will store your excess luggage while you travel.

Pharmacies Pharmakia, identified by green crosses, are scattered throughout Athens. Hours are usually Mon–Fri 8am–2pm. In the evening and on weekends, pharmacies post the location of others that are open or will open in an emergency. Newspapers such as the Athens News also list pharmacies that are open outside regular hours.

Police In an emergency, dial 100. For help dealing with a troublesome taxi driver, hotel staff, restaurant staff, or shop owner, call the tourist police at 171.

Post Offices The main post offices in central Athens are at Koumoundourou 29, off Omonia Square (open Mon–Sat 8am–5pm), and in Syntagma Square, at the corner of 60 Mitropoleos (open Mon–Fri 7:30am–2:45pm).

Restrooms There are public restrooms in the underground station beneath Omonia and Syntagma squares and beneath Kolonaki Square, but you’ll probably prefer a hotel or restaurant restroom. Toilet paper is often not available, so carry tissue with you. Do not flush paper down the commode; use the receptacle provided.

Safety Athens is among the safest capitals in Europe, and there are few reports of violent crimes. Pickpocketing, however, is not uncommon, especially in the Plaka and Omonia Square, around the Acropolis and other tourist sights, on the Metro and buses, and in Piraeus. Place your valuables in your front pockets, in an inside zipped pocket, or in a money belt and keep a grip on your camera, phone, or tablet. Avoid the side streets of Omonia and Piraeus at night. Carry only a credit or debit card and leave your passport, valuables, and extra cards in a security box in your hotel room, ask to use the hotel safe. If you feel you need your passport with you, carry a photocopy, not the original. See also p. 360.

Taxes A VAT (value-added tax) of between 6% and 24% is added onto everything you buy. Be wary: Some shops will try to cheat you by quoting one price and then, when you hand over your credit card, adding a hefty VAT charge. In theory, if you are not a citizen of an EU country, you can get a refund at the airport on major purchases. See p. 361 for tips on how to get a refund with less hassle.

Telephones Public phones are scarce, and most accept only phone cards, available at the airport, newsstands, and Telecommunications Organization of Greece (OTE) offices. Cards come in several denominations, currently starting at 3€. Most OTE offices and Germanos stores (including the one in the airport) now sell cellphones and phone cards at reasonable prices. For more on phones, see p. 362.

Tipping Athenian restaurants include a service charge in the bill, but a few extra euros are appreciated. Most Greeks do not give a percentage tip to taxi drivers, but often round up the fare; for example, round up a fare of 2.80€ to 3€. In hotels, tip anyone who carries your bag (1 or 2€) and count on that much per day for the person who cleans your room.

Where to Stay in Athens

Concepts of low and high seasons are a bit murky in Athens. Summer is low season for many business-oriented hotels, with deals available for leisure travelers, but it’s high season for tourist-oriented hotels, where prices might plunge in the winter months. To find the best prices, check out hotel websites. When in doubt, ask, and bargain—if rooms are available, savvy hoteliers will gladly negotiate. Many hotels, especially in the budget category, prefer you to pay in cash and will often give you a discount for doing so. Few hotels provide parking; in the listings below, we note those that do (otherwise, see p. 61 for centrally located parking facilities). Note also that Athens hotels do not always include breakfast in their rates; in the listings below, we note places where breakfast is included.

Athens Hotels & Restaurants

Expensive

Electra Palace One of the largest hotels in the Plaka delivers old-fashioned luxury in a vast lobby and somewhat staid guest rooms, done up with stylish faux antiques, pastel color schemes, and marble bathrooms. Best of all—and the real reason to stay here—is the beautiful rooftop pool, from which you can almost reach out and touch the Acropolis while doing laps. Some rooms on upper floors are smaller than those below, but they have the same knockout views, and, this being the busy Plaka, are less prone to traffic noise. (Ask for one of these when you make your reservation—your request will be honored “subject to availability.”) Second choice is a room with a balcony facing the palm-filled garden, a real oasis in the central city. Service is polished, though a bit rote, and a buffet breakfast is served in the garden in good weather. The Electra has two other hotels in the neighborhood.

18–20 Nikodimou. www.electrahotels.gr. 210/337-0000. 106 units. 180€–260€ double. Rates include breakfast buffet. Parking 15€ a day. Metro: Syntagma. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; gym; rooftop pool; indoor pool; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Grande Bretagne An Athens landmark for 160 years, the Grande Bretagne has housed royalty, celebrities, and world leaders and is still the best address in town. A recent chain affiliation does not tarnish the polish, and plenty of opulence remains. Surroundings are delightfully old-world, yet 21st-century innovations and gizmos ensure maximum comfort. The choicest rooms, done up in traditional luxury, have balconies overlooking Syntagma Square, the Parliament, and the Acropolis. An attentive staff looks after every detail, and the rooftop pool and adjoining GB Rooftop bar/restaurant enjoy magical views of the city with the Parthenon floating atop it.

Syntagma Sq. www.marriott.com. 210/333-0000. 328 units. 300€–400€ double. Some rates include buffet breakfast. Parking 15€ a day. Metro: Syntagma. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; free airport pickup; concierge; health club and spa with Jacuzzi; 2 pools (indoor and outdoor); room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Ochre & Brown Psyrri’s clubs, as well as many of the central city’s ancient and modern sites, are just outside the door, making this relaxed, intimate hotel a hit with travelers wishing to get the most out of Athens life. Lots of style, highly personalized service, high-tech amenities, and beautifully designed earth-toned rooms all add up to a chic but friendly urban experience. Some quarters overlook the surrounding streets, many with balconies. The choicest accommodation is the junior suite with Acropolis views from its terrace. The hotel’s lounge/bar and restaurant are popular local haunts.

Leokoriou 7. www.oandbhotel.com. 210/331-2950. 11 units. 145€–280€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Metro: Thissio or Monastiraki. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge bar; Wi-Fi (free).

St. George Lycabettus Hotel Large, nicely decorated guest rooms (each floor has a different theme, from art nouveau to minimalism) and a beautiful rooftop pool do justice to a wonderful location—the pine-scented slopes of Lycabettus Hill, just above the boutique-lined streets of Kolonaki. The Lycabettus cable car is just outside the door and the Syntagma Metro station an easy walk away. Most rooms look toward the summit; some have Acropolis views, and others overlook a small park or the hotel’s interior.

2 Kleomenous. www.sglycabettus.gr. 210/729-0711. 154 units. 150€–250€ double. Parking 14€ a day. Metro: Syntagma. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; concierge; pool; room service; art gallery; cinema; Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Acropolis View Hotel The leafy, quiet neighborhood around this pleasant little inn on the south side of the Filopappou Hill is an easy walk from Plaka, and the Grand Promenade is just outside the front door, putting the ancient sights just steps away. Its airy, spotless rooms are freshly done in earth tones. Some face the Acropolis, as does the roof terrace; others overlook the Filopappou, a slightly less dramatic but pleasing prospect.

Rovertou Galli and Webster 10. www.acropolisviewhotel.gr. 210/921-7303. 32 units. 85€–140€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Metro: Akropoli. Amenities: Breakfast room; bar; roof garden; Wi-Fi (free).

Attalos Hotel A roof garden with a well-stocked bar and knockout Acropolis views is one of the many appeals of this longtime favorite, a comfortable and friendly base within walking distance of Monastiraki, the Plaka, the Central Market, and ancient Athens. Wood-floored guest rooms are extremely well kept, if a bit generic, and soundproofed windows and walls (a rarity in this hotel category) ensure a good night’s sleep. Some choice balcony rooms even offer views of the Acropolis or the Lycabettus hill. This is known as maybe the best good-value lodging in central Athens (especially for the so-called economy rooms), so it’s wise to book well in advance.

Athinas 24. www.attaloshotel.com. 210/321-2801. 78 units. 65€–150€ double. Breakfast 9€ (included in some rates). Amenities: Roof garden; bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Coco-Mat Athens BC Poised at ground zero for Athens sightseeing, this outpost of contemporary luxury is across the street from the Acropolis Museum and a near neighbor to the Plaka, Temple of Olympian Zeus, and the Koukoki restaurants. Locale is not all this place has to offer, though—beautifully designed spaces incorporate the glassed-over remains of a Roman villa, and a rooftop pool and bar top off guest rooms done in natural fabrics and muted tones, the best with close-up Acropolis views. Beds are supremely comfortable, as they should be, since this chain is a spinoff of the empire that created the well-known Coco-Mat mattresses that you’ll encounter all over Greece.

Falirou 5. www.coco-mat-athens-bc.com. 210/723-0000. 115 units. 90€–150€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Metro: Akropoli. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; indoor and outdoor pools; spa; gym; bikes for rent; Wi-Fi (free).

The Foundry Set in a 1930s Psyrri foundry (later a theater), this hotel’s industrial chic design is softened by vintage furnishings, bright colors, tall windows, greenery cascading down stone walls, and a magical roof garden with the Parthenon appearing. High-ceilinged apartments have separate sleeping and sitting areas, as well as kitchens, and their stylishly comfortable furnishings include quirky details like wood stoves or hand-crafted wood staircases floating up to sleeping lofts. If there’s any flaw in this transporting getaway, it’s that it’s hard to leave the premises to explore the many nearby sights and enjoy the surrounding restaurants and bars.

Sarri 40. www.thefoundrysuitesathens.com. 211/182-4604. 12 units. 150€–160€ double. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Roof terrace; bar; in-unit kitchens; Wi-Fi (free).

Fresh Hotel Soothing minimalist design accented with bright colors, along with a sun deck and rooftop pool, put a fresh face on this hotel in the gritty Omonia neighborhood. With laid-back ambiance, a helpful young staff, and appealing in-house bar/restaurants serving light Mediterranean fare, it provides a soothing break from the city bustle. Stylish, artful rooms include such modern amenities as window blinds that can be controlled from the beds. When you are adequately recharged and ready to hit the streets, hip Psyrri is nearby, and Plaka and the Acropolis are within walking distance.

Sofokleous 26. www.freshhotel.gr. 210/524-8511. 133 units. 85€–150€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Parking 12€ a day. Metro: Omonia or Monastiraki. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; pool; gym; Wi-Fi (free).

Pallas Athena Hotel Ten international artists were picked to outfit this hotel’s 57 “graffiti” rooms with themes ranging from Japanese and Byzantine art to comic book art. Decorated with depictions of flowers, birds, trees, clouds, or superheroes, they lean towards the psychedelic, but some more Zen-like surroundings, bathed in neutral tones, are also available. Despite the pervasive gimmickry (the check-in desk is fashioned from two converted Mini Coopers), all the accommodations are solidly comfortable and service is refreshingly friendly and down-to-earth. The streets beyond the front door might be a bit too earthy for those averse to urban grit, but many city stops—including the Central Market and Monastiraki—are close at hand.

Athinas 65 and Lycourgou. www.grecotelpallasathena.com. 210/325-0900. 79 units. 105€–220€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Metro: Omonia or Monastiraki. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; gym; Wi-Fi (free).

Periscope The strong minimalist design here—all grays and whites, industrial-style bathrooms with powerful showers, and “periscope-like” aerial shots of the city throughout—doesn’t sacrifice comfort, and it fits right into the stylish Kolonaki neighborhood. Some of the city’s best shopping and cafe life is just outside the door, and the Benaki and Cycladic Art museums are near neighbors. The lobby and rooftop bars are scenes in themselves.

22 Haritos. www.yeshotels.gr. 210/623-6320. 22 units. 130€–240€ double. Most rates include buffet breakfast. Metro: Syntagma. Amenities: Cafe/bar; restaurant, gym; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Acropolis House Hotel One of a cluster of basic but clean lodgings in a quiet corner of the Plaka, the Acropolis House occupies a 150-year-old villa and a slightly newer attached wing. Original features include murals revealed during renovations and a breezy terrace. Be sure to ask for one of the older rooms when booking—those in the newer wing are bland and many of their bathrooms, though private, are across the hall. Rooms 401 and 402 have good Acropolis views.

Kodrou 6–8. 210/322-2344. 19 units, 15 w/ private bath. From 60€ double w/ shared bath, 80€ w/ private bath. A/C for 10€ surcharge. Rates include Continental breakfast. Metro: Syntagma. Amenities: Refrigerators; Wi-Fi (free).

Adonis Hotel Room decor at this basic, value-for-money fixture in the Plaka is spruce and nicely done in neutral tones. Attractive but functional furnishings don’t go much beyond a bed and a chair, while bathrooms are well equipped but small. Compensating for a lack of luxury are a prime location (on a pleasant back street just a 10-minute walk from Syntagma Square) and outdoor spaces: All rooms have balconies, from which a slight neck crane affords an Acropolis view, and an airy roof terrace houses a pleasant bar.

3 Kodrou and Voulis. www.hotel-adonis.gr. 210/324-9737. 26 units. 65€–120€ double. Rates include Continental breakfast. Metro: Syntagma. Amenities: Cafe/bar; rooftop garden; Wi-Fi (free).

Art Gallery Hotel A 1950s house beneath Filopappou Hill was once the residence of a visiting artist, who left many of her works behind. Even the vintage cage elevator evokes more gracious times. Many guests still settle in for months at a time, and the hardwood floors and polished old furniture have a homey, lived-in sheen. Note that some bathrooms, while private, are across the hall from rooms. A buffet breakfast (extra charge) and evening cocktails are served in a top-floor lounge and roof garden with views of the Acropolis.

5 Erechthiou. www.artgalleryhotel.gr. 210/923-8376. 22 units. 60€–90€ double. Breakfast 8€. Metro: Syngrou-Fix. Amenities: Roof terrace; Wi-Fi (free).

AthenStyle Who says a hostel has to be the last resort of the budget conscious? This one, occupying two former industrial buildings in Monastiraki, comes with colorful lounges and a view-filled rooftop, where inexpensive happy-hour cocktails might help older travelers appreciate the relentlessly youthful vibe. In-house perks that you’re unlikely to find in pricier lodgings include a self-service laundry and communal kitchen. The cheapest accommodations are in four- to ten-bed dorms, but a slight splurge puts you in a private room with bath or even a kitchen-equipped studio.

Agias Teklas 10. www.athenstyle.com. 210/322-5010. 50 private units. 60€–80€ private double, 20€ bunk in dorm, Breakfast 4€. Amenities: Bar; lounges; laundry; storage lockers; kitchens (private and communal); Wi-Fi in public areas.

Athens Studios These spacious apartments, with decent kitchens, basic yet spiffy contemporary furnishings, and private balconies overlooking the pleasant neighborhood, are a big hit with families. So is the self-service laundry downstairs, and twin beds and separate sitting areas make the units well suited to unattached traveling companions and small groups. Travelers on a tight budget can check into one of the multi-bed dorms. The Acropolis and Acropolis Museum are just a few steps away.

Veikou 3a. www.athensstudios.gr. 210/923-5811. 26 units, 60 dorm beds. 60€–120€ private double, from 20€ bunk in dorm. Rates include breakfast. Metro: Akropoli. Amenities: Cafe; bar; laundry; baggage storage; Wi-Fi (free).

Central Athens Hotel A prime Plaka location, just two blocks off Syntagma Square, comes with a big perk—a roof garden with views of the Acropolis that you can enjoy while soaking in a communal Jacuzzi. Rooms are no-nonsense contemporary, geared to practical comfort rather than luxury; the choicest enjoy Acropolis views from small balconies. Some rooms can be connected for families or guests traveling in groups. Given the proximity of the Syntagma Metro, airport bus connections, and city sights, this is a good choice if you’re only in town for a night or two on your way to the islands.

Apollonos 21. central.hotelsathens.org. 210/323-4357. 84 units. 80€–120€ double. Most rates include breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Dorian Inn The big draw here is the large rooftop pool, a perk that few other central hotels in this price range offer. This chance to cool off after a day of sightseeing, along with relaxing on a breezy roof lounge with city views in every direction, offsets a decidedly gritty west-of-Omonia location. So does the extremely professional and friendly staff, spacious rooms that are soothingly comfortable in a chain-hotel sort of way, and the proximity of the Metro, Psyrri nightlife, and National Archaeological Museum.

15–19 Tsaldari. www.dorianinnhotel.com. 210/532-9782. 145 units. 65€–95€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Amenities: Bar; 2 restaurants; pool; Wi-Fi (free).

Exarchion Students (and those who still travel like students) swarm to this somewhat worn, no-frills, but homey outpost in the city’s bohemian university quarter. Some nice touches are a bar that spills out onto an arcade out front and a roof terrace. Best of all for many guests, the National Archaeological Museum is just down the street.

Kleomenous 78. www.exarchion.com. 210/380-0731. 50 units. 60€ double. Buffet breakfast 4€ Metro: Omonia. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; roof terrace; Wi-Fi (free).

Jason Inn Hotel Don’t be put off by the dull streets of the immediate vicinity—at this basic but cheerful and well-run place you are at the edge of the city’s trendy enclaves of Psyrri, Gazi, and Thissio, and just steps from Monastiraki’s busy cafes. The Kerameikos cemetery, with some of the city’s most intriguing ruins, is just across the street. Rooms, some set up for families of four, are furnished with IKEA-style modern flair; most have balconies, and all have use of a rooftop terrace. If the inn is full, the staff may be able to find you a room in one of their other hotels in the vicinity.

Agion Assomaton 12. jason-inn.hotelsathens.org. 210/325-1106. 57 units. 95€–115€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Metro: Thissio. Amenities: Breakfast room; bar; roof garden; Wi-Fi (free).

Marble House This longtime fixture in Koukaki, a residential quarter just south of the Acropolis, is at the end of a dead-end lane, where you can enjoy the quiet setting from a marble-sheathed verandah out front or from little balconies off many rooms. Amenities in the comfortable, sponge-painted guest rooms, accented with iron bedsteads and antiques, include refrigerators (handy for stocking up at nearby grocery stores and bakeries) and ceiling fans (you can also pay an extra 5€ for air conditioning). A few units have kitchens, as does a ground-floor apartment next door. The surrounding area has many popular restaurants and bars, while the Acropolis Museum is nearby. Note: The hotel accepts credit cards to hold reservations but often asks for payment in cash upon arrival.

Anastasiou Zinni 35. www.marblehouse.gr. 210 923 4058. 16 units. 25€–45€ double w/ shared bath, 30€–50€ double w/ private bath. Breakfast 5€. Metro: Syngrou-Fix. Amenities: Refrigerators; Wi-Fi (free).

Student and Traveller’s Inn When location matters and budget is an issue, look no farther than this well-run and attractive hostel on a pretty pedestrian street at the edge of the Plaka. Accommodations are in multi-bunk dorms or, for those with a bit more cash to burn, in one of the small private rooms, some with private bathrooms and balconies. A few larger units are set up for families.

Kydathinaion 16. www.studenttravellersinn.com. 210/324-4808. 40€–50€ double w/ private bath, 35€–45€ double w/ shared bath, 18€ for bunk in dorm. Metro: Syntagma. Amenities: Courtyard; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in Athens

Dining in Athens in a real pleasure, with excellent cooking taking center stage everywhere from traditional tavernas to the latest hotspots. Settings are wonderful, too, with many restaurants occupying old houses and shady courtyards. Probably the only restaurants to avoid are those that station waiters outside to lure in diners. The hard sell is almost always a giveaway that the place caters to tourists—the meal may not be terrible, but it’s likely to be mediocre, and you won’t get the full Athenian dining experience. A meal in Athens, particularly dinner, is to be relished, never rushed and preferably enjoyed alfresco. Note: Many, many restaurants do not accept credit cards, or at least prefer cash, especially now that money is so tight in Greece.

Expensive

Altamira EXOTIC Fusion cuisine hits a new extreme in these elegant, old-fashioned, operatic surroundings where dishes are infused with Middle Eastern, Indian, and Southeast Asian flavors. For an even more unusual experience, order one of the daily special preparations of reindeer, ostrich, or other wild game.

Tsakalof 36A. altamira.com.gr. 210/361-4695 or 210/363-9906. Entrees 25€–35€. Wed–Sat 6:30pm–2am, Sun 1–6pm; closed mid-July–Aug. Metro: Syntagma. Bus: 200.

GB Roof Garden MEDITERRANEAN Politicians, royalty, and Hollywood stars have all enjoyed a meal and knockout Acropolis views here, atop the city’s swankiest hotel. The outlook and swank don’t overshadow the excellent menu, however, which combines Greek and Italian flavors, with non-fussy pastas alongside fish and steaks done on the grill or in a wood-burning oven. An economical option is to come for a cocktail at sunset, but whatever brings you up here, dress in smart casual attire.

Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma Sq. www.gbroofgarden.gr. 210/333-0000. Entrees 30€–50€. Daily 6–11am and 1pm–1:15am. Metro: Syntagma.

Moderate

Café Avissinia GREEK Take refuge from the surrounding flea market in this mahogany-paneled lair, a long-standing city institution that draws many Athenians into the mob scene around Abyssinia Square. Homey seafood dishes (including plump mussels roasted in wine and washed down with ouzo) star on the menu, alongside stews and other traditional fare. The house wine is delicious and encourages lingering, as does the live music that often wafts through the old rooms.

Kinetou 7 at Abyssinia Sq. cafeavissinia.net. 210/321-7047. Entrees 10€–15€. Tues–Sat 11am–2am; closed mid-July–Aug. Metro: Monastiraki.

Chez Lucien FRENCH You might have to wait to get a place at one of the shared tables in this small knick-knack-filled room, a throwback to 1960s bohemian Paris, but it’s worth the trip to the out-of-the-way Petralona neighborhood. The French bistro fare here, offered on drinks-included set menus, is delicious and much less expensive than you’ll find at other Athens outposts of French cooking.

Troon 32. 210/346-4236. Entrees 18€–25€. Daily 7pm–2am. Metro: Thissio or bus 227.

Fabrica tou Euphrosinos GREEK Named for Euphrosinos, the patron saint of cooks, this restaurant claims to follow a monastery style of cooking, using only seasonal produce, artisanal cheeses, and fresh-baked breads and pastries. The simple menu and ingredients, served in a multilevel space fitted out with contemporary art and retro furnishings, are drawn from around Greece, with slow-cooked rooster, lamb stews, and vegetable-rich salads showing off a range of flavors.

Anastasiou Zinni 34. 210/924-6354. Entrees 9€–15€. Tues–Thurs 1–11pm, Fri–Sat 1pm–midnight, Sun 1–10pm. Metro: Sygrou-Fix.

Mani Mani GREEK In a series of attractive, upper-floor dining rooms around the corner from the Acropolis Museum, this restaurant serves flavorful cuisine that captures the essence of the region it’s named for, the barren, rugged tip of the Peloponnese. Mountain herbs infuse rooster bardouniotikos stuffed with siglino (cured pork), or hilopite, noodles topped with chicken, fennel, and sun-dried tomatoes, while shrimp with orzo and other seafood dishes pay tribute to the sunbaked, sea-girt region.

Falirou 10. manimani.com.gr. 210/921-8180. Entrees 10€–20€. Tues–Sat 8pm–1am, Sun 2–5pm. Metro: Akropoli or Syngrou-Fix.

Inexpensive

Avli GREEK Once you’ve found this welcoming courtyard (avli) tucked away in Psyrri beyond a small, graffiti-ridden door, the worn furnishings and funky décor make it clear the emphasis is on good food and good times. You won’t find a long menu here—instead the tiny kitchen sends out mezes, or small plates, of cabbage rolls, country sausages, and what many regulars consider to be the best keftedes (meatballs) in town.

Agiou Dimitrou 12. 210/321-7624. Small plates from 6€. Daily 1pm–midnight. Metro: Panepistimio.

Dio Dekares I Oka GREEK At this Koukaki neighborhood favorite, red-checked tablecloths and soft lighting create an atmosphere that’s as welcoming as the friendly service and lovingly prepared meals. Daily specials always include fresh fish and grilled meats, accompanied by a magirefta or two (one-pot meals) and lots of appetizers and salads. Even a straightforward moussaka or simple baked eggplant with feta are reminders of just how flavorful well-prepared Greek home cooking can be.

Anastasiou Zinni 29-31. dyodekaresioka.gr. 210/922-0583. Entrees 7€–11€. Daily noon–midnight. Metro: Syngrou-Fix.

Diporto GREEK No sign, no menu, no English—descend the steps to this basement lair to experience a throwback to old-time working-class Athens, where you’re likely to share a rustic table with a longtime regular. On tap from the kitchen are five or six daily dishes, often a chickpea stew or platter of fried fish. Wine is dispensed from barrels along one wall—go for the old-fashioned retsina, a perfect accompaniment to the home-style cooking. Diporto (the name refers to the two doors at the top of the stairs) often closes in summer, when even Athenians can’t take the heat in the cramped space.

Sokratous 9. 210/321-1463. Entrees about 8€. Mon–Sat 8am–7pm. Metro: Omonia or Monastiraki.

Epirus GREEK Butchers, fishermen, surly loners, chic shoppers, and bar-hoppers rub elbows at one of the city’s favorite stops for old-fashioned home cooking. The big draw is the tripe soup, a surefire cure for a hangover and a fortifying start to the day for the market workers who pour in at dawn. Many other soups, stews, and traditional favorites like moussaka are usually on the huge old stove—including the ever-popular magiritsa soup, with lamb offal, or rich fish and chicken soups. Diners enjoy views of the kitchen in one direction and the market stalls in the other.

Filopimenos 4 (inside the Central Market). 210/324-0773. Entrees 6€–10€. Mon–Sat 6am–8pm. Metro: Omonia, Panepistimiou, or Monastiraki.

Fatsio GREEK The name may evoke an Italian trattoria, but this 70-year-old landmark is pure Athenian, named for founder Georgios Fatsio. Like the comfy décor, home-style dishes are decidedly old-school, slightly infused with the flavors of Greek Istanbul. Artichokes in lemon sauce, meatballs, baked fish, savory meat patties, and other standards are served from hot plates, and casserole dishes set outside the kitchen are popular with a crowd of regulars. Attentive service enhances the charming experience of a meal here.

Efroniou 5. 210/721-7421. Entrees 7€–12€. Daily 11am–6pm. Metro: Evangelismos.

Platanos Taverna GREEK A beloved institution, established in 1932, Platanos stands out amid its tourist-trap neighbors. The succulent roast lamb with artichokes brings regulars back time after time to dine in a pretty courtyard beneath a plane tree (platanos). The wine list includes a wide choice of bottled wines from all around Greece, although the house wine is tasty.

Dioyenous 4. 210/322-0666. Entrees 10€–11€. Mon–Sat noon–4:30pm and 7:30pm–midnight. Metro: Monastiraki or Syntagma.

Scholarchio This popular old ouzeri, its white walls lined with paintings by customer artists, is geared to pleasing a crowd. Choose from a tray of delicious appetizers—tzatziki, moussaka, taramosalata, fried eggplant, sausages (served flaming), and dozens of others. Come with a group, because the more people at the table, the more dishes you get to try.

Tripodon 14. www.scholarhio.gr. 210/324-7605. Meze 3€–7€. Daily 11am–3am. Metro: Syntagma or Monastiraki.

Steki tou Ilia GREEK/GRILL HOUSE This grill house set along a pedestrian street encourages a leisurely meal—part of the name, “ilias,” means “hangout,” and that’s what many regulars come to do. The house specialty is its irresistible paidakia—chargrilled lamb chops served the old-fashioned way, with grilled bread sprinkled with olive oil and oregano. There’s a second location at 5 Eptachalkou St., Thissio ( 210/345-8052).

Thessalonikis 7. 210/342-2407. Entrees 8€–18€. Mon–Sat 1pm–1am; Sun 1–5:30pm. Metro: Thissio.

Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani GREEK A modern-day mezetzidikot (combo taverna-deli-meze house) takes you on a gastronomic tour of Greece, with a regional array of cheeses, cured meats (pastirma), savory pies, and cold mezes, followed by platters of grilled country sausages and other heartier fare, along with delicious baklava and other sweets. The old-fashioned high-ceilinged neoclassical room does justice to the honest cuisine, and cases and shelves around the tables display cured meats, olive oil, honey, and other products for sale from selected small-scale producers.

Sokrates 1. 210/325-4184. Small plates from 7€. Mon–Sat 8am–11pm. Metro: Monastiraki or Omonia.

To Paradosiako Evgenia With the busy Plaka as a backdrop, meals here deliver delicious food and friendly service, either at sidewalk tables or in two small flower-filled rooms. Grilled sardines, fried gavros (anchovies), and country sausages appear alongside dips and other mezes, including what might be the best fava bean spread in the city, accompanied by crusty bread. Oven-cooked standards, all made fresh daily, include a memorably creamy moussaka.

Voulis 44. 210/321-4121. Meze 4€–7€, entrees 8€–10€. Daily noon–midnight. Metro: Syntagma.

Fast Food Classics

Whether it’s a gyro or slice of baklava you’re craving, it’s easy to find authentically Greek fast food in Athens, and these places especially merit going out of your way to enjoy. Kostas, Pentelis 5 (metro Syntagma), has been dispensing souvlaki from a street-side window in the Plaka for about 70 years. The formula never varies: just-baked pita, marinated and grilled pork, dairy-fresh yogurt, home-grown tomatoes, onions, and parsley, salt, and pepper. The current Kosta, grandson of the founder, serves Monday to Saturday from 9am to 4pm, but he often runs out by 2 or 3pm. A stop for loukamades is old-fashioned Ktistakis, Socrates 59 ( 210/524-0891; metro Omonia). Bentwood chairs and marble floors evoke the early 20th century, when the family began making these treats, best described as deep-fried doughnut holes—though that doesn’t do justice to the carefully crafted dough balls filled with honey and sprinkled with cinnamon. They serve Monday to Friday 9am to 8pm, Saturday 10am to 8pm, and Sunday 11am to 8pm. A holdover from the days when milk bars were commonplace in Athens, unfussy Stani, Marika Kotopouli 10 ( 210/523-3637; metro Omonia) is still the place for sheep’s-milk yogurt, drizzled with country honey and topped with walnuts. Delicious pastries and fried eggs are also offered for an all-day breakfast or snack, Monday–Saturday 6:15am–11pm and Sunday 7:30am–11pm.

Tzitzikas kai Mermigas MODERN GREEK Kebabs, meat and vegetable pies, onions stuffed with bacon, and other traditional dishes are served on tables topped with butcher paper in a whimsically retro room that evokes an old-fashioned grocery store. The food and decor is a big hit with Athenians: You’ll find several other branches around town.

Mitropoleos 12–14. www.tzitzikasmermigas.gr. 210/324-7607. Meze 4€–8€. Mon–Wed 12:30pm–midnight, Thurs–Sat 12:30pm–1am, Sun 12:30pm–11pm. Metro: Syntagma.

Vlassis GREEK For a home-cooked meal, do what the Athenians do and head to this neoclassical mansion in a quiet neighborhood near the American embassy. Greeks call this kind of food paradisiako (traditional); dozens of salads, spreads, and small meat and seafood dishes are brought to the table and you pick what you want. Be forewarned—you’ll be tempted to take more than you can eat!

Meandrou 15. vlassisrestaurant.gr. 210/646-3060. Entrees 5€–15€. Mon–Sat 1pm–midnight, Sun 1–5pm. Metro: Megaro Mousikis.

Exploring Athens

One important thing to know about Athens: Much of what you want to see is clustered on and around the Acropolis Hill, so you can visit a lot of sights fairly easily on foot. Many visitors give the capital 2 days, tops, before shipping out for the islands. That’s enough time to see the Acropolis (p. 78) and the two treasure troves of ancient art, the Acropolis Museum (p. 80) and the National Archeological Museum (p. 94), and also wander through the Plaka and Monastiraki neighborhoods, with their rich street life and scattering of antiquities. You’ll no doubt end up wanting more, though, and this lively, cosmopolitan, just plain fun city has plenty else to offer.

Athens Attractions

Save With the Acropolis Ticket Package

If you plan to see a number of Athens’ classical sites, you can score significant savings by purchasing the Acropolis combination ticket for 30€. Valid for 5 days, this package includes admission to the Acropolis, Theater of Dionysus, Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Ancient Agora, the Roman Forum, the Library of Hadrian, and Kerameikos Cemetery. You can buy the ticket at any of the sites. Individual entry fees could add up to 54€, so the pass represents a substantial savings—in summer only, though. Admission prices to many sites drops by half in the winter, while the cost of the ticket package remains the same.

The Acropolis & Nearby Sights

The beloved 2,400-year-old landmark of Greece’s Golden Age stands high above the city (Acropolis means “High City”), an enduring symbol of perfection that instills pride in even the most hard-nosed Athenians, and awe in their visitors. Wars, plunder, pollution, and neglect have taken their toll on the Parthenon, the harmonious temple to Athena, and the smaller monuments that surround it on the hilltop. Even so, in sun-bleached beauty, the Acropolis continues to show the heights to which a civilized society can aspire.

Acropolis ANCIENT SITE/RUIN In ancient times, worshippers and celebrants made the ascent to the Acropolis on the Sacred Way, a processional walkway that crossed the city from Kerameikos (p. 91) and scaled the Acropolis via a series of ramps and steps. The current approach, along a well-worn path through the Beule Gate, is no less inspiring.

Beule Gate From the ticket pavilion just off the Grand Promenade, a path ascends to this grandiose entryway built by the Romans in a.d. 280, and more recently named for the French archaeologist who unearthed the monumental entryway in 1852. (Don’t be misled by the inscription on the lintel from 320 b.c.—fragments from an earlier monument were incorporated into the Roman gate.) Just beyond the gate is a pedestal that during the Roman years was topped with a succession of statuary honoring charioteers, Anthony and Cleopatra, and finally, Marcus Agrippa, the general who defeated the Anthony and Cleopatra’s forces at the Battle of Actium.

Propylaia Ancient visitors to the Acropolis passed through this symbolic entryway, an antechamber to the sacred precincts beyond. A central hall housed five gates; one was reserved for priests, worshippers, charioteers, and beasts who climbed the Acropolis in a long procession during the Panathenaic Festival (depicted in the Parthenon Frieze, see p. 80). A forest of elegant columns remains in place, including a double row that surrounds the inner porch and dramatically frames the Parthenon, just beyond. A portion of the paneled ceiling and fragments of frescoes hint at the Propylaia’s former grandeur and the awe it must have inspired in those passing through.

Temple of Athena Nike Tucked next to the Propylaia, on a vertigo-inducing platform at the edge of the Acropolis Hill, this miniscule shrine was built between 427 and 424 b.c. as a prayer for success against Sparta in the Peloponnesian War. Square and perfectly proportioned, with four columns at either end, the temple honors Athena in her guise as the goddess of victory.

Erechtheion Perhaps the most distinctive of all Greece’s ancient temples stands on the spot where Poseidon and Athena allegedly squared off in a contest to see who would be honored as patron of the city. Poseidon struck his trident into a rock and unleashed a spring, while Athena topped him by miraculously producing an olive tree, symbol of peace and prosperity (much valued but short-lived in 5th-century-b.c. Athens). Marks of Poseidon’s trident can be seen in a rock on the north porch, and an olive tree still grows nearby. The god and goddess are honored in the temple, built on three levels to accommodate the Acropolis Hill’s slope. It’s supported in part by caryatids, columnlike statues of maidens delicately draped in pleated gowns. The ones in place are copies; five of the originals are in the Acropolis Museum (p. 80).

The Parthenon The sanctuary to Athena and storehouse of the treasury of the Delian League stands at the highest point of the Acropolis. Two of the temple’s most remarkable features are no longer here—an 11m-tall (36-ft.) gold-plated statue of Athena by the great sculptor Phidias, and the 160m (530-ft.) Parthenon Frieze. Segments of the frieze are in the Acropolis Museum (p. 80) while others were carted off to London by Lord Elgin between 1801 and 1805 (see p. 80 for more on Greece’s battle to reclaim these treasures). Much the worse for wear—battered by looting, weather, pollution, and an explosion ignited by Venetian artillery in 1687—the majestic temple is still the symbol of artistic perfection. With a sharp eye you might detect an optical illusion; since straight lines appear curved, Parthenon architects slightly curved the temple’s 50 columns so they appear perfectly straight.

Dionysiou Areopagitou. odysseus.culture.gr. 210/923-8747. Admission 20€ (10€ Nov–Mar); included in Acropolis combination ticket (p. 78). Apr–Oct daily 8am–8pm; Nov–Mar daily 8am–3pm. Elevator for visitors with disabilities.

The Vision of pericles

Ever since the Acropolis was first inhabited, at least 5,000 years ago, the flat-topped, 156m-high (520-ft.) rocky outcrop provided Athenians protection and views of enemies approaching, either by sea or across the plains. Such measures proved powerless, however, against the Persians, who razed Athens and the Acropolis in 479 b.c.

Athenians and Spartans banded together to rout the Persians in 449 b.c., and a year later, the great general and statesman Pericles set about rebuilding the Acropolis. Plundering the state coffers, he hired the sculptor Phidias and the architects Iktinos and Kallikrates. Using the era’s finest artisans, the purest marble, and a workforce of thousands, he completed the Parthenon within 10 years and most of the other temples and monuments within another decade or two.

The perfectly proportioned Parthenon and its neighbors on the Acropolis were showpieces for the superiority of Athens and the achievements of the Golden Age—the philosophy of Socrates, the plays of Aeschylus and Sophocles, the artistry of Praxiteles and other sculptors, and the birth of democratic ideals. Pericles bankrupted Athens by building the Acropolis; by 404 b.c. the city had fallen to the Spartans. But the harmony and proportion Pericles achieved on the Acropolis has survived the ages.

Acropolis Museum MUSEUM The sculptures and statuary that once adorned the temples of the Acropolis—a breathtaking presence through the tall windows—are shown to beautiful advantage here, among acres of glass and marble. Caryatids (female sculptures used as architectural supports), statues of Korai (maidens) dedicated to Athena, figures of Kouri (young men), and elaborate friezes—4,000 works altogether—are displayed in the light-filled galleries. What’s not here are many segments of the Parthenon Frieze, carted off to England from 1801 to 1804. Greece wants these treasures back, and stunning quarters on the museum’s top floor await their return.

A walk through the galleries, with their airy views of the Parthenon, mimics an ascent up the Acropolis Hill. On the ground floor, the Acropolis Slopes gallery houses votives, offerings, and other finds from sanctuaries at the base of the Acropolis, where cults to Athena and other gods and goddesses worshipped; an overlook provides a look at ruins in situ beneath the museum. The marble floor slopes to the next level, where works are arranged in the order in which ancients walking through the Acropolis would have seen them. A head of Hermes by Alkamenes, in the Propylaia collections, once greeted visitors going through the ceremonial entranceway; in the Temple of Athena Nike exhibit, a relief captures the goddess in a refreshingly humanlike pose, unfastening her sandal; and in the Erechtheion section, five famous caryatids, female figures used as columns on the temple’s south porch, are grouped on a balcony. In the top floor Parthenon Galleries, friezes and metopes are arranged as they originally appeared on the temple, which can be viewed through floor-to-ceiling windows. Wrapping around the walls is a 160m-long (530 ft.) section of one of the world’s greatest ancient treasures: the Frieze of the Great Panathenaia (also known as the Parthenon Frieze), a tableau of a procession in honor of Athena (see “The Frieze Fracas,” p. 80).

Dionysiou Areopagitou 15. www.theacropolismuseum.gr. 210/900-0900. Admission Apr–Oct 10€, 5€ students and kids under 18; Nov–Mar 5€, 3€ students and kids under 18. Apr–Oct Mon 8am–4pm, Tues–Thurs and Sat–Sun 8am–8pm, Fri 8am–10pm. Nov–Mar Mon–Thurs 9am–5pm, Fri 9am–10pm, Sat–Sun 9am–8pm.

The frieze Fracas

Fifty panels of the Parthenon Frieze—the remarkably animated marble frieze of maidens, priests, soldiers, worshippers, and oxen making their way to the Acropolis to honor the goddess Athena—are in the British Museum in London. Lord Elgin, onetime British ambassador to the Ottoman Empire, began removing segments of the frieze in 1801, supposedly with the permission of Turkish officials, and shipped them home. Greece is demanding the return of the treasures, carrying on a campaign that actress and minister of culture Melina Mercouri launched in the 1980s. Britain’s long-standing argument that Greece can’t properly care for the treasures is belied by the stunning new galleries that now stand completed, awaiting their return.

Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris CHURCH Legend surrounds this little 14th-century church nestled in a copse on Pnyx Hill. In 1645, so the story goes, the Ottoman commander of the Acropolis garrison planned to fire upon Christians gathering for services in honor of St. Dimitrios. The night before the attack, lightning hit the gunpowder magazine, igniting an explosion that killed the commander but spared his Christian daughter. The humble stone and wood church is decorated with some delightfully primitive frescoes.

Apostolou Pavlou, on the path opposite (south of) the Acropolis entrance. Free admission. Hours vary. Metro: Akropoli or bus 230.

Areopagus HISTORIC SITE A bald granite outcropping next to the Acropolis, reached by treacherous steps carved out of the rock, is one of the most ancient and storied places in Athens. According to legend, the gods tried Ares here for killing Halirrhothius, son of Poseidon. (Ares was acquitted on the grounds that he was protecting his daughter from Halirrhothius’ unwanted advances.) The summit was also the meeting place of the Council of the Areopagus, an assembly of citizens who judged murder trials, and for Socrates and his students, who came here to discourse. St. Paul delivered his famous Sermon to an Unknown God from atop the Areopagus, trying to convert Athenians to Christianity. You may well encounter pilgrims from around the world who climb the hill to pay homage to Paul.

Continuation of Theorias opposite the Acropolis entrance. Metro: Akropoli or bus 230.

Filopappou Hill VIEWPOINT This, summit, also known as Lofos Mousson (Hill of the Muses), lies just west of the Acropolis, affording stunning eye-level views of the Parthenon—views that have mesmerized gazers since the days of Pericles, when the general assembly (Ecckesia) met on the nearby Hill of the Pnyx (see p. 84).

Follow Dimitriou Aiginitou off the Grand Promenade.

First Cemetery CEMETERY Since the 19th century, prominent Athenians have been laid to rest in this parklike expanse of greenery that climbs the cypress- and pine-clad slopes of Ardittos Hill behind the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Among those buried here are Heinrich Schiliemann, the archaeologist who uncovered Troy and Mycenae, and Melina Mercouri, the actress and activist who launched the battle for the return of the Parthenon Frieze (p. 80). Other lesser-known people rest beneath spectacular monuments, many carved by stonemasons from the island of Tinos. The cemetery’s most beloved monument is Sleeping Lady (1877), crafted by Tiniot Yannoulis Halepas for the tomb of Sophia Afentaki, the 18-year-old daughter of a wealthy Athenian. Walking along the shaded lanes is a popular outing; many Athenians come here to picnic near their loved ones’ graves.

Anapafseos and Trivonianou. 210/923-6720. Apr–Oct 8am–8pm; Nov–Mar 8am–5:30pm. Bus: A3, A4, 057, 103, 108, 111, 155, 206, 208, 237, 856, or 227.

Grand Promenade LANDMARK A walkway of marble and cobblestone skirts the base of the Acropolis Hill, linking some of the world’s most famous ancient sites, all the way from the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch to the Ancient Agora, providing a stroll through the millennia accompanied by the scent of pine. This walkway, officially known as Dionysiou Areopagitou through ancient Athens, continues along a branch from Plateia Thissio through Kerameikos Cemetery (p. 91) out to Gazi and along Andrianou through Monastiraki into Plaka. Walking along this pedestrians-only boulevard surrounded by the great monuments of ancient Greece is one of the capital’s greatest pleasures.

Hadrian’s Arch ANCIENT SITE This beautifully preserved, albeit soot-darkened, triumphal arch was erected in honor of the emperor in a.d. 131. The marble monument divided the old Greek city from the new Roman city that Hadrian—an ardent Hellenophile—endowed with many temples and monuments, naming the district Hadrianoupolis after himself. Hadrian considered Athens the cultural capital of the Roman Empire, and he struck his claim to the city by having the arch’s east side inscribed with “This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus” and the west side with “This is Athens, once the city of Theseus.” The gate is remarkably well preserved, though ignobly besieged by a swirl of passing traffic.

Amalias and Dionysiou Areopagitou.

Hill of the Nymphs NATURAL LANDMARK The northernmost of the hills surrounding the Acropolis is topped by the National Observatory, built in 1842 to designs by Theophilos Hansen, the Danish architect of the Academy at the University of Athens (p. 94) and other public buildings around the capital. The observatory, with a French-built telescope from 1902, is open for tours, with some evening telescopic star-gazing. Just below is the multi-domed Agia Marina church, a 20th-century replacement of an earlier church honoring Saint Marina, the patron saint of childbirth. Her presence here continues the hill’s long association with nymphs who were believed to protect pregnant women and sick children. Ancient Athenians would leave the garments of sick children beneath the trees in the hopes that nymphs would work a cure. In places the rugged hillsides are etched with caves, including one known as the Prison of Socrates, said to be where the philosopher was forced to drink hemlock after being found guilty of corrupting Athenian youth; the story is unproven (and highly unlikely) but adds a bit of romance to the bucolic surroundings. You may even see a herd of white ponies, grazing in their off hours when they aren’t busy pulling buggies on the tourist route.

Dionysiou Areopagitou/Apostolou Pavlou. National Observatory Visitor Center: www.noa.gr. 210/349-0000. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ students. Mon–Fri 9am–2pm and select evenings at 9pm (check website).

Lalaounis Jewelry Museum MUSEUM Greece’s millennia-long knack for crafting fine jewelry comes to the fore in the workmanship and style of internationally renowned designer Ilias Lalaounis (b. 1920). His magnificent gold and silver interpretations of Greek designs, inspired by cultures from the Minoans to the Ottomans, are displayed in the former Lalaounis workshops, alongside jewels and bling from around the world. The designer’s dazzling pieces are on offer in the museum shop, but don’t look for prices any lower than they are at other tony Lalaounis shops around the world.

Karyatidon 4 & Kallisperi 12. www.lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr. 210/922-1044. Admission 5€. Tues, Thurs–Fri 9am–3pm; Wed & Sat 9am–9pm. Metro: Akropoli. Bus: 230.

Odeon of Herodes Atticus ANCIENT SITE Wealthy statesman, scholar, and philanthropist Herodes Atticus funded works throughout Greece, including the baths at Thermopylae and a theater in Corinth. In a.d. 160 he presented to Athens this theater, tucked into the slopes of the Acropolis, in memory of his wife, Regilla. Since a 1955 restoration, audiences fill the 34 rows of seats for drama, music, and dance performances in the summertime Hellenic Festival. You may enter the theater only during performances, but walk around the pine-scented grounds and you can see portions of the arched exterior and get a sense of the theater’s elegant proportions.

Grand Promenade, Thrassilou and Dionysiou Areopagitou.

Panathenian Stadium ANCIENT SITE Built around 330 b.c. to host the Panathenian games, this arena has been well used over the millennia. Greco-Roman aristocrat Herodes Atticus (see above) had the stadium reconstructed in a.d. 143–144, and the so-called Kalimarmaro (“Beautiful Marble”) underwent another redo by architect Ernst Ziller and Anastasios Metaxa to host the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. The Panathenian is still used for events; during the 2004 Olympics it hosted archery competitions and was the finish line for the marathon.

Vas. Konstantinou and Irodou Attikou. Metro: Akropoli.

City of enlightenment

For almost 1,500 years—from around 900 b.c. to a.d. 500—Athens was one of the most important cities in the ancient world, a center of trade and for many centuries renowned for promoting art and philosophy. Much of the ancient city you see today was built or transformed by the Romans, who gave Athens free status and financed many public works. Athens enjoyed the favor of Hadrian and other Roman emperors until the 6th century, when Justinian, a Christian, declared the famous schools of philosophy to be pagan institutions and closed them.

Pnyx HISTORIC SITE The ancient Assembly met on the Pnyx during the 5th and 4th centuries b.c., which more or less makes the hilltop the birthplace of democracy. Any citizen of Athens was welcome to come here to debate and vote on matters of importance to the city. (Granted, women were not allowed to be citizens, and most residents of the city were slaves.) Pericles stood on this spot to argue for funds to build the Parthenon—which, once built, became such a distraction that in 404 b.c. the semicircle of benches was turned around so that the Parthenon was behind the Assembly members’ backs. Take a seat and gaze across to the Acropolis to see just how engaging the spectacle of the monument still is.

Dionysiou Areopagitou and Apostolou Pavlou. Metro: Akropoli.

Temple of Olympian Zeus ANCIENT SITE The greatest monument that Roman emperor Hadrian bestowed upon his beloved Athens is this massive temple, the largest in Greece, completed in a.d. 131. The ruler Peisistratos had begun it in the mid-500s b.c., but work stopped for lack of funds; Aristotle later cited the temple as an example of the excesses with which tyrants enslaved the populace. By Hadrian’s time the unfinished temple, with its vast foundations and huge columns, had lain abandoned for centuries. Hadrian may have been inspired to complete it after seeing two of its columns in Rome, installed in 81 b.c. by the general Sulla in the Temple of Jupiter on the Capitoline Hill. Hadrian’s temple lacks the grace of the Parthenon but is undeniably impressive: 104 Corinthian columns, more than 1.5m (5 ft.) in diameter, stood 16m (52 ft.) tall. The 15 that remain in place are dramatically floodlit at night. At one time, a giant replica of Phidias’ statue of Zeus (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) stood in an inner chamber, with a similarly grandiose statue of Hadrian himself next to it.

Vas. Olgas St. and Amalias Ave. odysseus.culture.gr. 210/922-6330. Admission 6€; included in Acropolis combination ticket (p. 78). Apr–Oct daily 8am–8pm; Nov–Mar 8am–5pm. Metro: Syntagma or Akropoli.

Theater of Dionysus ANCIENT SITE A theater has been tucked into the slope of the Acropolis Hill since the 6th century b.c., when Athenians began celebrating a Dionysus Festival to honor the god of wine and ecstasy with days of dancing, feasting, and drinking. Celebrations became more refined during the 5th-century b.c. Golden Age, when theatergoers came from all over Greece to see the dramas of Aeschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides. The ruins you see today are of a vast marble theater begun in 342 b.c. that sat 17,000 spectators on 64 tiers of marble benches; 20 rows remain, as does a claw-footed throne, carved with satyrs, reserved for the priest of Dionysus.

Grand Promenade, Thrassilou & Dionysiou Areopagitou sts. 210/322-4625. Admission 2€; included in Acropolis combination ticket (p. 78). Apr–Oct daily 8am–8pm; Nov–Mar 8am–3pm. Metro: Akropoli or Thissio.

Stepping Lively

In front of Parliament at Syntagma Square, two Evzones—soldiers of the Presidential Guard—keep watch at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Amalias Avenue and Vas. Georgiou streets). It’s easy to spot them, dressed as they are in the frilly white skirts and pom-pommed red shoes of their ancestors who fought to gain Greece’s freedom during the War of Independence (1821–28). Every hour on the hour, the guards do some pretty fancy footwork in front of the tomb. A much more elaborate duty-rotation ceremony (Changing of the Guard) occurs on Sunday at 11am, usually to the accompaniment of a band.

Around Syntagma Square

This lively expanse of paving stones is figuratively and literally the center of Athens. It’s overlooked by the formidable Parliament building, once the palace of Otto of Bavaria, the first monarch of a newly independent Greece, under whose less-than-stellar leadership the first constitution was adapted in 1843. Ever since, the square has been a hallowed ground of Greek nationalism, a stage for protests, celebrations, and—as you’ll observe—the comings and goings of everyday life in the capital. Tree-lined Vasillis Sofias, the city’s Museum Row—home to the Museum of Cycladic Art (p. 97), the Benaki Museum (p. 96), and several other collections—leads off the Square to the east. Plaka and Anafliotika, two of the city’s oldest neighborhoods, are just to the south; Omonia, the commercial center, is to the north; and the old working-class neighborhoods of Monastiraki and Gazi are to the west. Before you hurry off to explore, stop to take a peek at the ruins of Roman baths unearthed during construction of the Metro (more artifacts are displayed inside the modernistic station)—a wonderful example of the juxtaposition of ancient and modern that you’ll often encounter in Athens.

Frissiras Museum of Contemporary European Painting MUSEUM Should you begin to think that Greek art ended sometime around 400 b.c., step into these stark galleries spread across two adjoining neoclassical mansions to see the work of contemporary Greek artists, as well as those from other European countries. Some works by David Hockney and other internationally known artists will be familiar, but you will also enjoy an introduction to Costas Tsoclis and other highly acclaimed Greek artists.

Monis Asteriou 3 and 7. www.frissirasmuseum.com. 210/323-4678. Admission 6€. Wed–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun 11am–5pm. Metro: Syntagma.

National Gardens PARK Queen Amalia, wife of King Otto, almost started another revolution back in the mid–19th century when she banned the Greek public from using the 16 hectares (40 acres) behind her palace, now the Parliament. Its lawns, paths, ponds, and gardens full of exotic plants from around the world have been open to all since 1923. With shady arbors and dense copses that burst with the song of parrots and other birds, they’re a welcome refuge from the swirl of traffic just outside the gates.

Daily 7am–10pm. Free admission.

National History Museum MUSEUM Palaia Vouli, or Old Parliament (it housed the Greek Parliament from 1875–1935), is a suitable home for collections that focus largely on “modern” Greek history, from the Ottomans’ arrival in the 15th century to World War II. The Greek War of Independence is idealistically captured with such mementoes as the sword and helmet Lord Byron (p. 91) donned when he came to Greece to aid the cause. Less glorious chapters of the nation’s past are depicted in galleries surrounding the former assembly chamber, from the harsh yoke of Ottoman rule to the Battle of Crete.

Stadiou at Kolokotroni. www.nhmuseum.gr. 210/323-7617. Admission 3€. Tues–Sun 8:30am–2:30pm. Metro: Syntagma.

Numismatic Museum (Iliou Melathron) HISTORIC HOME Heinrich Schliemann, the German archaeologist who unearthed the ancient kingdoms of Troy and Mycenae, commissioned German architect Ernst Ziller to design his Athens residence, which he named Iliou Melathron (Palace of Troy). Ziller emblazoned the gates with swastikas (a popular design in ancient Greece) and decorated the cavernous interior with marble, columns, and ancient-looking frescoes—just the right setting in which the learned Schliemann could entertain dinner guests by reciting the Iliad from memory. The splendid rooms are enhanced by the presence of the holdings of the Numismatic Museum, one of the world’s finest collections of ancient and historic coins—600,000 in all, dating from 700 b.c., including many from Troy and Mycenae. Many of the coins are arranged by the themes depicted on them, so you can loiter over the cases to compare charming representations of gods and goddess, Roman generals and Byzantine emperors, and mythical beasts and sea creatures.

Panepistimiou 12. www.nummus.gr. 210/364-3774. Admission 6€. Mon 1–8pm, Tues–Sun 8:30am–3pm. Metro: Syntagma.

Parliament HISTORIC BUILDING The fortresslike palace that Munich architect Friedrich von Gaertner built for King Otto in 1848 probably did not endear the unpopular monarch to his Greek subjects. It’s a formidable presence on Syntagma Square, perhaps befitting its present role as home to the Greek Parliament. Among the few signs of life are two highly photogenic soldiers in traditional foustanellas (ceremonial skirtlike garments) guarding the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier outside. The most impressive thing about this building is the way its stone changes color throughout the day, from off-white to gold to a light blush mauve before it is lit dramatically at night.

Closed to general public.

Zappeion HISTORIC BUILDING Amid the nationalistic fervor of the newly formed Greek nation, millionaire Evangelias Zappas sought to build a hall to host world-fair-style exhibitions as well as ceremonies for the revived Olympic Games. Theophilos Hansen, who’d shown a neoclassical bent in his designs for the Greek Academy (p. 94) and National Library (p. 94), designed the huge semicircular hall, inaugurated in 1888 and named after Zappas. Hansen adorned the long facade with a portico and an elegant row of columns, but his pièce de résistance lies within—a vast circular atrium surrounded by a two-story arcade supported by columns and caryatids. The Zappeion was the venue for fencing competitions during the first modern Olympic Games in 1896; more recently it hosted the ceremonies signing Greece into the European Union. The surrounding Zappeion Gardens, crisscrossed by broad promenades, adjoin the National Gardens.

Enter from the National Gardens or from Amalias, Vas. Olgas, or Vas. Konstantinou sts. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm (hours vary depending on events). Metro: Syntagma.

The Plaka & Monastiraki

These sprawling quarters beneath the Acropolis are remnants of 19th-century Athens, with Byzantine churches and fragments of the ancient city sprinkled among the narrow lanes. Alleys, simple bougainvillea-clad houses, and a round-the-clock holiday atmosphere give these neighborhoods the cheerful ambiance of a Greek island. Vendors hawk souvenirs (especially along Adrianou and Pandrossou streets in the Plaka and around Monastiraki Square); chicly clad young Athenians sit in cafes alongside their worry-bead wielding elders; and waiters try to lure passersby into restaurants serving undistinguished cuisine. It’s easy to feel you’ve stumbled into a tourist trap as you amble through the Plaka and into Monastiraki, but this colorful heart of old Athens is also quintessentially and alluringly Greek.

Agii Apostoli Solanki CHURCH One of Athens’s oldest churches was built in the Agora around a.d. 1020 to honor St. Paul, who preached Christianity in the surrounding stoas and atop nearby Areopagus Hill. The Ottomans and overly zealous 19th-century renovators all but obliterated the church’s charm, but it was tenderly restored to its original form in the 1950s. A few fine early Byzantine frescoes remain in place, alongside some 17th-century wall paintings moved here from a now-demolished church.

Dionysiou Areopagitou, in the Ancient Agora. Free admission. Hours vary.

Home Away from Home

In the quiet enclave of Anafiotika, whitewashed stepped streets and bougainvillea-clad houses climb the rocky slopes of the Acropolis. A world removed from modern Athens, Anafiotiika was settled by masons and other craftsmen who migrated from Anafi and other Cycladic islands in the mid-1800s to find work building the new capital. They built these simple houses in the style of their homeland and renovated the enchanting 17th-century church of Agios Girogios tou Vrachou (St. George of the Cliff), perched on the flanks of the Acropolis Hill. In the garden is a memorial to Konstantinos Koukidos, an Acropolis guard who wrapped himself in a Greek flag and threw himself off the top of the bluff when the Germans invaded in 1941.

Ancient Agora ANCIENT SITE The center of commercial, administrative, and social life in ancient Athens for almost 1,000 years, starting in the 6th century b.c., the Agora is today a jumble of broken columns and crumbling foundations strewn among olive, pink oleander, cypress, and palm trees. Long ago, the city elite gathered to watch ceremonial processions pass through the Agora on the Sacred Way; so important was the Agora in ancient Greece that it was ground zero, the point from which all distances throughout the Greek world were measured. With a little imagination, life at the center of ancient Athens can come alive as you explore its monuments.

The sole remaining ancient structure is the beautifully preserved Temple of Hephaestus, from the 5th century b.c. Devoted to Athena and Hephaestus, god of blacksmiths, it was once surrounded by metalworking shops; a beautiful frieze atop the 34 columns depicts Hercules and Theseus, ancient Greece’s superheroes who slew monsters and performed other amazing feats. The government’s ruling body met and lived in the circular Tholos; the council met in the nearby Bouleuterion and state archives were kept in the Metroon. The Stoa of Attalos was once the city’s major shopping venue, with marble-paved colonnades that were popular gathering places; St. Paul preached Christianity here and Socrates sat on a bench expounding his philosophical principles. (The stoas—porticos—of the Agora lent their name to stoicism.) Reconstructed in the 1950s, the two-story stoa displays pottery, oil flasks, bronze disks used to cast votes, and many other finds evoking commercial and political life in ancient Athens. Just behind is the beautiful church of Agii Apostoli Solanki (p. 87). Adrianou, the neighborhood’s most pleasant street, follows the north side of the Agora toward Kerameikos cemetery. Many of its 19th-century houses have been converted to cafes; sit at an outdoor table and soak in the views over the ruins to the Acropolis.

Entrances on Adrianou & Agiou Filippou, Monastiraki; west end of Polygnotou, Plaka & Thissio Sq., Thissio. odysseus.culture.gr. 210/321-0185. Admission 8€ (Nov–Mar 4€); included on Acropolis combination ticket (p. 78). Apr–Sept daily 8am–8pm; Oct 8am–6pm; Nov–Mar 8am–4pm. Metro: Monastiraki or Thissio.

Kapnikarea CHURCH One of the greatest pleasures of strolling through the crowded Plaka and Monastiraki is coming upon this 11th-century gem, planted right in the middle of busy, shop-lined Ermou Street. Built on the site of an ancient temple to Athena, the tile-domed stone church incorporates Roman columns from the Forum; it escaped demolition twice as Athens began to burgeon in the middle of the 19th century. Standing proud, slightly sunken beneath the level of the modern street, the landmark is an endearing testament to the city’s long past.

Ermou & Kapnikarea. Free admission. Hours vary. Metro: Monastiraki.

Library of Hadrian ANCIENT SITE Roman emperor Hadrian built this lavish hall, of which a portion of a columned porch remains, for learning, discourse, and relaxation. At the center of the complex was a large inner court, surrounded by 100 columns supporting a portico overlooking the courtyard’s garden and pool. Opening off the court were lecture halls, rooms for reading and conversation, and a library where papyri were stored in stone cabinets (a few of which survive). Hadrian intended the library to be his contribution to the intellectual life of Athens; he and other Romans considered the city to be the Empire’s center of learning and enlightenment, and many noble families sent their sons to Athens to be educated.

Areos. odysseus.culture.gr. 210/923-9023. Admission 4€ (Nov–Mar 2€); included in Acropolis combination ticket (p. 78). Apr–Oct daily 8am–8pm; Nov–Mar daily 8am–3pm. At other times can be viewed from Aiolou St. Metro: Monastiraki.

Lysicrates Monument ANCIENT SITE Many so-called choragic monuments like this once lined ancient Tripodon Street (Street of the Tripods), which still runs through the Plaka. Choragics were producers who trained and costumed choruses and dancers for festivals; winners displayed their trophies (three-footed vessels known as tripods) atop lavish monuments. This is the only surviving example, erected by Lysicrates to show off the trophy he was awarded in the Dionysian festival of 334 b.c.

Lysikratous & Herefondos. Metro: Syntagma.

Mitropolis CHURCH The city’s cathedral—home church to the archbishop of Athens and the chosen place of worship for the Athenian elite—was completed in 1862 amid the new capital’s building boom. Its massive walls incorporate marble from dozens of earlier churches around the city that were demolished to make room for roads and buildings. Next door is the medieval church Panagia Gorgoepikoös, or Little Metropolis (see below).

Mitropoleos. Free admission. Hours vary. Metro: Monastiraki.

Museum of Greek Folk Musical Instruments MUSEUM The lyres and other gorgeously crafted instruments on display here, along with recorded music and occasional live performances in the courtyard (home to a family of tortoises), make a delightful introduction to Greek musicology. With roots in the ancient world and the Byzantine and Ottoman empires, Greek music is far more than the Never on Sunday theme played endlessly in tourist tavernas.

Diogenis 1–3. 210/325-0198. Free admission. Wed–Mon 8:30am–4pm. Metro: Monastiraki or Thissio.

Panagia Gorgoepikoös (Little Mitropolis) CHURCH Though overshadowed by the unremarkable 19th-century Mitropolis (Metropolitan Cathedral) next door, this little church dedicated to the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoös (“she who hears quickly”) is much closer to the hearts of Athenians. The late 12th-century builders chose the site of an ancient temple to Eileithyia (goddess of childbirth and midwifery) and made use of its old stones and cornices. More than 90 stone reliefs decorate the church, revealing layers of the past—some are ancient, depicting the Panathenaic games, others are Roman, and many are early Byzantine designs of plants and animals, brought here from other shrines around the city.

Mitropoleos & Agias Filotheis at Mitropoleos Sq. Free admission. Hours vary. Metro: Monastiraki.

Plateia Monastiraki LANDMARK This lively square, paved in colorful mosaics, takes its name from a medieval monastery and poorhouse, of which only the church of Panayia Pantanassa remains. The square’s most prominent feature is the tiled-domed 18th-century Tzistarakis Mosque, a remnant from the days of Ottoman rule. It became infamous when a Turkish administrator destroyed a column from the Temple of Olympian Zeus to extract lime for the mosque’s construction; a plague soon swept through the city, which was blamed upon that desecration. You can step beyond the porch into several halls that display beautiful Turkish ceramics. A Turkish bazaar grew up around the Tzistarakis Mosque, and narrow lanes leading off the square, especially Ifestou and Pandrosou streets, still have a souklike feel, lined with stalls and tiny shops. That aura is especially evident on Sunday mornings, when a flea market snakes along Ifestou and nearby Kyntou and Adrianou streets. A 21st-century innovation in the square is a glass enclosure revealing the Iridanos River, which once flowed freely around the base of the Acropolis and was considered sacred by ancient Athenians.

Ermou & Athinas. Metro: Monastiraki.

Roman Forum ANCIENT SITE The well-preserved Gate of Athena Archetegis is inscribed with a notice that these now-ruined monuments—a rectangular marketplace that was the commercial center of the city in the years of Roman rule—were erected with funds from Caesar and Augustus. Hadrian, who rebuilt so much of Athens in the 2nd century, is represented in the forum by a simple inscription regulating the sale of oil at the bazaar that operated near the entrance. In the 16th century, when Athens fell to the Ottomans, Mehmed II the Conqueror was allegedly so taken with the city’s classical beauty that he prohibited destruction of the ancient monuments on pain of death. Besides converting the Pantheon to a mosque, he also built the Fethyie (Victory) mosque on the north side of this forum to celebrate his conquest. The most sought-out remnant, however, is a Roman latrine, maybe only second to the Acropolis as the most popular spot in Athens for photos.

Aiolou & Pelopida. 210/324-5220 or 210/321-0185. Admission 6€ (Nov–Mar 3€); included in the Acropolis combination ticket (p. 78). May–Oct daily 8am–8pm; Nov–Apr 8:30am–3pm. Metro: Monastiraki.

Tower of the Winds ANCIENT SITE One of the most intriguing buildings of the ancient world stands on high ground next to the Roman Forum. Built by Syrian astronomer Andronikos Kyristes around 50 b.c., with a weather vane and eight sundials visible from afar, the structure was one of the first known versions of a clock tower. Each of its eight sides is inscribed with friezes of Boreas and other personifications of the winds; inside, a water clock employed gears and sophisticated mechanisms to regulate the flow of water from a stream on the Acropolis Hill into a basin, allowing timekeepers to make measurements. A walk along Aiolou Street (named for Aeolus, god of wind) offers a nice view of the tower. Turn off Aiolou into Pandrossou, a pedestrian alley that once was the Turkish bazaar—one of the city’s few vestiges of the 400 years of Ottoman rule. A bazaarlike aura still prevails; the narrow lane is chockablock with souvenir and jewelry shops.

Near corner of Pelopida & Aiolou. Metro: Monastiraki.

Psyrri & Gazi

Monastiraki runs into Psyrri, a busy working-class neighborhood where leather crafters, tinsmiths, and basket weavers work out of small shops. By day, cafes and shops make it clear that the neighborhood is gentrifying, as does the proliferation of colorful murals and graffiti; street art is especially exuberant on Louka Nika, a little alley that’s become an artistic showcase. When the sun sets, the neighborhood transforms into one of Athens’s prime stages for night life, as nocturnal-by-nature Athenians crowd the tavernas, bars, and clubs until dawn. To the west is Gazi, where old brick smokestacks that once infamously spewed fumes and smoke now glow with colored lights, providing a beacon above the increasingly gentrified streets.

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art MUSEUM A 19th-century neoclassical house and outbuildings display Islamic ceramics, carpets, woodcarvings, and other objects, including an exquisitely carved wood-and-ivory chessboard. Especially evocative are two reconstructed living rooms from the Ottoman times and a 17th-century reception room from a Cairo mansion. In the cellar are the remains of a portion of the walls of the ancient city, while the excellent rooftop café affords views of Kerameikos and the Acropolis.

Agion Asomaton 22 and Dipylou. www.benaki.gr. 210/367-1000. Admission 9€. Thurs–Sun 10am–6pm. Metro: Monastiraki.

Kerameikos Cemetery ANCIENT SITE Potters settled Kerameikos (from which the word ceramics is derived) as early as 1200 b.c., and by the 7th century b.c. the district had become the main burying ground of Athens. Generations of noble Athenians were laid to rest along the Street of Tombs, beneath monuments that seem little affected by the millennia—including a splendid marble bull atop the tomb of Dionysos of Kollytos and a marble relief of Dexileos, showing the young soldier on horseback preparing to spear an opponent (similar to his own death at the hands of the Corinthians in 394 b.c.). Not as well preserved are two gates in the ruins of the city walls: The Dipylion Gate, the main entrance to the city, and the Sacred Gate, reserved for participants in sacred processions. Celebrants of the Eleusinian mysteries followed the Iera Odos (Sacred Way) through this Sacred Gate to Demeter’s temple in ancient Eleusis (now modern Elefsina, 22km/14 miles west); sections of the road remain, as do segments of the Long Walls that Themistocles erected in 478 b.c. Pottery, funerary sculptures, and other finds from Kerameikos are displayed in the Oberlaender Museum, next to the entrance. Kerameikos is one of the lesser-known ancient sites in Athens, so you can wander through these peaceful and storied surroundings at leisure.

Ermou 148. 210/346-3552. Admission 8€ (Nov–Mar 4€); included in the Acropolis combination ticket (p. 78). May–Oct daily 8am–8pm; Nov–Apr 8:30am–3pm. Metro: Thissio.

LORD byron’s ATHENS

Back in 1809, when Psyrri was known as a haven for underworld thugs and a hotbed for revolutionaries, British poet Lord Byron, an ardent Hellenophile, boarded at 11 Agias Theklas St. (now a warehouse). His landlord’s 12-year-old daughter, Teresa Makris, inspired his poem “Maid of Athens.” Returning to Greece in the 1820s, Byron wrote part of “Childe Harold” while staying in the 17th-century Capuchin monastery, now destroyed, that once surrounded the Lysicrates Monument (p. 89). At the Temple of Poseidon (p. 100), he carved his name on one of the columns; visiting Marathon (p. 98), he wrote: “The mountains look on Marathon, And Marathon looks on the sea, And musing there an hour alone, I dreamed that Greece might still be free.”

Mementoes of Byron’s involvement in the Greek independence movement can be found at the National History Museum (p. 94) and the Benaki Museum (p. 96). Alas, before he could fight to free Greece, Byron succumbed to fever in the boggy, cholera-infested town of Mesolongi, where he died on April 19, 1824.

Melina Mercouri Museum and Cultural Centre MUSEUM Take a romp through 19th-century Athens along a typical street of the then-newly transformed capital, painstakingly re-created in a former hat factory. Shop windows display clothing and dry goods, a door opens into a neoclassical house, and a kafeneion (coffeehouse) is so authentic you can almost hear the clatter of worry beads. Ground-floor spaces show off karagiozis (shadow puppets). The center evokes the memory of Melina Mercouri (1920–94), the actress and former minister of culture who launched the battle for the return of the Parthenon Marbles (see box p. 80). The center is in Thissio, an old neighborhood just west of the Acropolis and south of Kerameikos.

Iraklidon 66a. 210/345-2150. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–8pm, Sun 10am–2pm. Metro: Thissio.

Technopolis MUSEUM Gazi translates as “gas lands,” a reference to the unwelcome effect this former foundry once had on its surroundings. In the late 1990s the city of Athens converted the complex to a culture center (Technopolis means “Arts City”), and brick-and-stone-walled exhibition spaces now surround a courtyard that’s often used for concerts. Furnaces and other industrial equipment remain in place, interspersed with art exhibits and performance spaces. One hall houses the Maria Callas Museum, allowing a voyeuristic peek at some of the diva’s personal effects and clothing. The main exhibition spaces at Technopolis are usually open until 9pm, after which you can catch a late dinner at one of the many restaurants and cafes that have sprung up in Gazi and adjoining Psyrri.

Pireos 100. athens-technopolis.gr. 2130/109-300. Metro: Kerameikos.

Omonia & Exarchia

Much of life in Athens transpires on and around busy, gritty Omonia Square, north of the Plaka. There’s plenty to see—the central market, university, and National Archaeological Museum are all within easy reach—and you’ll find no lack of color. You can follow a pedestrian walkway, Aiolou, north from Monastiraki to Omonia, through Kotzia Square, but walk at least part of the way along Athinas Street, a busy avenue where shops cater to everyday needs, selling everything from tools and twine to votive candles and live chickens.

Not Your Ordinary Grocery Store

The sheep heads, live chickens, and calf carcasses probably won’t tempt you, and even much of the snack food offered, such as steaming bowls of tripe soup, can seem a bit, uh, exotic. But few places in Athens are livelier and more colorful than the Central Market on Athinias Street. The scent of wild herbs wafting through the vast halls is transporting, as heaping piles of comestibles provide a culinary tour of Greece: You probably never knew there were so many kinds of olives or varieties of creatures in the sea. Cheese, bread, sliced meats, and other picnic fare are sold at the north end of the market. The market opens at 6am Monday through Saturday and should be in full swing by the time you arrive at a more reasonable hour.

Agii Theodori CHURCH Marble tablets over the door date this squat church to the middle of the 11th century. With its sturdy stone walls and eight-sided, tile-roofed dome, the church has withstood bombardment during the War of Independence and other ravages, to stand as a sentinel from another age above the bustle of the busy streets below. Inside are many 19th-century frescoes and some charming terra-cotta reliefs of plants and animals.

Evripidou & Aristidou, at Klafthmonos Sq. Free admission. Hours vary. Metro: Panepistimiou.

City of Athens Museum MUSEUM Newlyweds King Otto and Queen Amalia set up temporary housekeeping in this modest 1830s house while their royal palace (now Parliament) was being built. The reception rooms, study, and library are fitted out to look as if the royal couple—still teenagers when they came to Athens to assume leadership of the new nation—might pop in at any moment. Most intriguingly, a plaster model to the scale of 1:1,000 shows what the city looked like in 1872, when it was home to just 25,000 souls. If you stop for a coffee or light meal in the museum’s Black Duck Garden Bistrot, you’ll be in good historic company—Amalia, who laid out the National Gardens as her private park, supervised the landscaping here, in this pleasant bower where she and Otto used to retreat from their official duties.

7 Paparigopoulou. www.athenscitymuseum.gr. 210/323-1397. Admission 5€. Mon and Wed–Fri 9am–4pm; Sat–Sun 10am–3pm. Bistrot: May–mid-Oct daily 9am–2am, mid-Oct–Apr daily 9am–5:30pm. Metro: Panepistimiou.

Exarchia Square SQUARE The heart of the university district of Athens is covered in graffiti and surrounded by boho shops and laidback, shabby chic cafes. You can join the ranks of artists, intellectuals, and hordes of youth for a vicarious look at Athenian student and intellectual life. A student uprising in Exarchia on November 17, 1973, left 34 dead but eventually brought down Greece’s oppressive military dictatorship.

Stournari & Themistokleous. Metro: Omonia.

The Hansen Buildings HISTORIC BUILDINGS In the 1840s, Danish architects Theophilus and Christian Hansen came to Athens to fulfill Bavarian King Otto’s plan to rebuild the new capital in neoclassical style. They focused their energies on three adjoining buildings, now surrounded by the University of Athens. Theophilus undertook the Academy of Athens, where two 23m-tall (75 ft.) columns topped with statues of Athena and Apollo flank a portico richly embellished with statuary—note the elaborate pediment frieze depicting the birth of Athena. In the main hall, beneath frescoes of the myth of Prometheus, is a statue of Simon Sinas, Greek consul to Vienna, who bankrolled the project. The public may step in to look at the main hall and library of the Academy, which promotes the advancement of sciences, humanities, and fine arts. Theophilus’ brother Christian Hansen, who was King Otto’s court architect, began work in 1839 on the university’s main building. Well versed in classical sensibility, he also spent his time in Athens reconstructing the Temple of Nike on the Acropolis (p. 78). He showed more restraint than his brother did with his buildings, adorning the refined facade of the university hall with a graceful, tall portico. Theophilus designed The National Library, the third in the Hansen brothers’ trilogy, indulging his bent for extravagance with a sweeping pair of curving marble staircases. It’s well worth ascending them to see the exhibits—the library displays some of Greece’s most rare manuscripts, including fragments of 6th-century gospels and the earliest known written versions of Homeric epics.

Academy of Athens: Panepistimiou 28. www.academyofathens.gr. 210/366-4700. Admission free, limited hours, usually weekdays. University of Athens: Panepistimiou 30. en.uoa.gr. 210/727-7000. Interior closed to general public. National Library: Omonia 32. www.nlg.gr. 210/338-2541. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–4pm. Metro: Panepistimiou.

National Archaeological Museum MUSEUM The splendor of ancient Greece comes to the fore in the world’s finest collection of Greek antiquities. Galleries behind the neoclassical facade are filled with sensuous marble statues that once adorned temples throughout Greece, and other treasures span Greek history from the age of Homer to the days of the Roman Empire.

Three collections steal the spotlight. The Mycenaean Collection evokes the short-lived civilization that dominated the southern Mediterranean from around 1500 to 1100 b.c.; its king, Agamemnon, launched the Trojan War and inspired the legends of Homer. In their royal tombs, the Myceneans left behind gold death masks and many other magnificent treasures, unearthed by Heinrich Schliemann in the 1870s. The so-called Mask of Agamemnon, once thought to be that of the king, has since been proven to predate him (some call the intriguing mask the “Mona Lisa of Prehistory”). In the Cycladic Collection you’ll find enigmatic marble figures typical of this early civilization, some 5,000 years ago, as well as some three-dimensional pieces, including an utterly charming harp player and a life-size female figure that is the largest Cycladic piece yet to be unearthed. The Thira Collection showcases colorful frescoes from the Minoan settlement of Akrotiri on Santorini (also known as Thira), buried in a volcanic eruption around 1600 b.c. Hauntingly beautiful images of monkeys (indicating trade with North Africa), ships sailing past leaping dolphins, and young women gathering saffron reveal much about everyday life in such a distant past.

Some of the ancient world’s most moving images are captured in the museum’s funerary monuments, including one from the Grave of Aristonautes in Kerameikos (p. 91), in which a boy tries to refrain a frisky horse. While most of ancient Greece’s bronze statues were melted down for weaponry over the centuries, three extraordinary bronzes were retrieved from shipwrecks: a galloping steed with a horseman astride its back; Marathon Boy, depicting a youth, perhaps a young Hermes; and a majestic figure from around 400 b.c. that may be Poseidon or Zeus—his hands are clasped to hold a missing piece that may have been a thunderbolt or a trident.

Patission 44 & Oktovriou 28. www.namuseum.gr. 210/821-7717. Admission 10€ (Nov–Mar 5€). Mid-Apr–Oct Tues 12:30–8pm, Wed–Mon 8am–8pm; Nov–mid-Apr Tues 1–8pm, Wed–Mon 8:30am–4pm. Metro: Victoria. Trolley: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 13, or 15.

Omonia Square SQUARE This traffic-heavy city hub lacks the grace of Syntagma Square: surrounded by banal office blocks, often torn up for improvements, and frequented by some decidedly shady denizens. But the scrappiness of the space is in keeping with the square’s history: When created in 1833 as part of the new capital’s renewal, it was intended to honor King Otto, but after the unpopular monarch’s ouster it became a hotbed of popular unrest, and was renamed Omonia, which means “Unity.”

Athinas & Konstantinou. Metro: Omonia.

A City transformed

After Greece’s War of Independence, Otto of Bavaria, then just 17, was named sovereign. One of his first orders of business was to transform Athens into a grand European capital. He imported prominent northern European architects of the day to design palaces and public buildings in a neoclassical style, inspired by the landmarks looming above the city on the Acropolis. Otto’s Athens never attained the grandeur of Baron Haussmann’s Paris, but the city is all the better for his efforts.

You can glimpse 19th-century Athens at its best a few blocks south of Omonia Square, down Athinas Street at beautifully restored Kotzia Square (officially named Platia Ethniki Andistassis, or Square of National Resistance). Grand neoclassical buildings surround the square, including the Athens City Hall (designed in 1874) and the National Bank of Greece. In the middle of the square, a fenced-off excavation area shows a large portion of an ancient road, along with several ancient tombs and small buildings. The square is beautiful at night when it is dramatically lit.

Kolonaki & Lycabettus

Well-coiffed, -shod, and -clothed Athenians tend to gravitate to the Kolonaki neighborhood, just north and east of Syntagma Square. You may want to follow in their footsteps—not just to sip coffee in their favorite lairs, but to spend an afternoon in some of the city’s finest museums and chic boutiques. Top off the experience with an ascent to the top of Lycabettus hill for a spectacular view of the sun setting over the city.

Benaki Museum MUSEUM Antonis Benakis (1873–1954) spent his vast fortune satisfying his taste for anything having to do with Greek heritage, spanning the millennia from prehistory to the 20th century. More than 20,000 objects are showcased in the Benaki family’s 19th-century mansion and a modern wing. Among the treasures: Mycenaean and Roman jewelry, 5,000-year-old gold and silver bowls that transition from the Stone Age to the Bronze Age, pistols Lord Byron brandished when he came to Greece in 1824 to join the fight for independence, and paintings by El Greco (who left his native Crete for Spain). Reception rooms plush with paneling and Persian carpets were re-assembled from an Ottoman mansion in Macedonia. A rooftop cafe overlooking the National Gardens (p. 85) is a refined place to recharge; the gift shop is stocked with beautiful reproductions.

Koumbari 1. www.benaki.gr. 210/367-1000. Admission 9€ (Thurs free admission to permanent collection). Mon and Wed–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 10am–4pm. Metro: Syntagma and Evangelismos.

Byzantine and Christian Museum MUSEUM From their palaces in Constantinople, Byzantine emperors and the hierarchy of the Orthodox church ruled much of the Balkans and Asia Minor from the 6th century well into the 15th century. Few collections anywhere match this trove of icons, manuscripts, frescoes, mosaics, and sculptures from that period. One of the most enchanting pieces is an ivory depicting a lyre-playing Orpheus surrounded by animals—an allegorical reference to Christ and his followers, typical of the transition from paganism to Christianity. Mosaic floors from a 5th-century basilica and a Roman villa show similar refinement.

Vasilissis Sofias 22. www.byzantinemuseum.gr. 213/213-9517. Admission 8€, under 18 free. Mon & Wed–Sun 8am–8pm, Tues 12:30–8pm. Metro: Evangelismos.

Lycabettus Hill VIEWPOINT One of the most popular rides in town is aboard the Teleferik that climbs to the pine-clad summit of Athens’ highest hill, topped with the gleaming white church of Ayios Giorgios. An early evening ascent via the funicular from Kolonaki usually ensures a breeze and a spectacular sunset. Legend has it that Athena intended to use Lycabettus to make her temple on the Acropolis even loftier; distracted while winging her way over the city, she dropped it, doing us all a favor. You can walk down (or up, for that matter) on one of the many well-marked paths.

Funicular leaves every 20 min. in summer from Ploutarchou St. 6€ round-trip. Metro: Syntagma or Evangelismos.

Toys and Threads

The exquisite Benaki holdings (see p. 96) include several intriguing collections around the city, among them Mentis Passementerie, on the southern fringes of Gazi at Polyfenous 3 ( 210/347-8292; metro Keramikos). This former textile factory turned out tassels for the Evzone Guards as well as braids, fringes, and curtain tiebacks for late 19th-century and early 20th-century bourgeoisie. Machinery is still in working order, as operators will demonstrate. The factory’s open Tues–Sat 10am–3pm; admission is free. Wooden horses, porcelain dolls, puppets, and hundreds of other beautiful handcrafted toys from throughout the Mediterranean fill a 19th-century villa that’s now the Toy Museum, Poseidonos 14 & Tritonos 1 in Faliro ( 212/687-5280; tram Trokantero). Admission is 9€, free for those under age 22; the museum is open Thursday through Sunday 10am to 6pm.

Museum of Cycladic Art MUSEUM From 3200 to 2000 b.c., one of Greece’s early civilizations produced enigmatic, almost abstract marble figures that today seem strikingly modern. Greece’s wealthiest shipping dynasty, the Goulandris family, amassed more than 300 of these figures, now housed in light-filled modern galleries. Such modern masters as Picasso and Modigliani were hugely inspired by these figures; most are female, suggesting they were sculpted in honor of a goddess, though a few warriors and other males slip into the mix. Additional exhibits display vases, lamps, tools, and other artifacts for an enlightening look at everyday life in ancient Greece. Temporary exhibitions occupy an adjoining 19th-century neoclassical mansion by Ernst Ziller, who designed many municipal buildings in Athens.

Neophytou Douka 4. cycladic.gr. 210/722-8321. Admission 7€ (3.50€ Mon). Mon, Wed, Fri–Sat 10am–5pm; Thurs 10am–8pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Metro: Syntagma or Evangelismos.

Plateia Kolonaki SQUARE In the leafy Kolonaki neighborhood, it’s easy to think that well-heeled residents do nothing but shop, then sit at the cafes around Kolonaki Square. In the center of the square, an ancient column gives the surroundings their name—“kolonaki” means “little column.” Take a seat at a cafe and enjoy a frappe (a tasty concoction of Nescafe and frothy milk) while watching the endless parade of beautifully coiffed elderly women, well-fed businessmen, wafer-thin models, and young men on the prowl.

Off Kanari & Koumbari. Metro: Syntagma or Evangelismos.

Outside the Center

Monasteries, temples, and other age-old landmarks surround Athens in the hilly landscapes of Attica. Never too far from the sea, these sights are rich in myth and the labyrinthine history of Greece.

Daphni Monastery RELIGIOUS SITE One of Greece’s finest Byzantine monuments was founded in the 6th century on the site of a temple to Apollo (you can still see one of the temple columns in a wall). Daphni takes its name from the laurels associated with Apollo, whose amorous pursuit of the nymph Daphne ended in her being transformed into a laurel tree. A prime position on the busy route to Corinth left the monastery vulnerable to sackings by medieval crusaders and some rough handling during the War of Independence. Yet its spectacular 11th-century mosaics remain intact, depicting saints, prophets, angels, and, from the center of the tall dome, Christos Pantokrator (Christ in Majesty). Daphni can be an ordeal to reach by public transport; the easiest way is to take the Metro to the Agia Marina station and bus 801, 811, 865, 836, 866, 876, or A16 from there to the Psyciatreio stop (that’s the Psychiatric Hospital of Attiki, just east of the monastery). Allow plenty of time and check that the monastery is open before setting out. If you’re driving to the Peloponnese, Daphni is an easy stop as you head west toward the Corinth Canal. With a little navigating, you could also work in a visit to the Sanctuary of Eleusis (see p. 99).

Lera Odos, Attica, 9km (51⁄2 mi) W of Athens. odysseus.culture.gr. 210/581-1558. Free admission. Wed–Sat 8:30am–3:30pm (call or check website for hours).

Marathon ANCIENT SITE The race name we use so widely today harks back to 490 b.c. A young man, Pheidippides, ran the 42km (26 miles) from this little town at the edge of the marshy coast to Athens, burst into the Agora, cried “We’ve won,” then dropped dead from exhaustion. He was announcing the seemingly miraculous victory of the Athenians, outnumbered three to one, over the Persian army. It was said that the mythical hero Theseus appeared to fight alongside the Athenians, and that the god Pan put in an appearance, too. All told, the Persians lost 6,400 warriors and the Athenians just 192. Humiliated by the defeat, the powerful Persian navy returned to Asia Minor without attacking Athens. The site of the Athenians’ greatest victory is hallowed ground in Greece, although there’s not much to see here. The Marathon Tomb, where the Athenian heroes were buried, still rises from the battlefield, and a fragment of the column the Athenians erected to celebrate independence is in the Archaeological Museum, about 1.6km (1 mile) from the tomb. Runners might want to step into the separate Marathon Race Museum, at Marathonos 25 (marathonrunmuseum.com; 229/406-7617), to see exhibits tracing the history of the marathon as an Olympic competition; also on view is a well-done video chronicling the ancient battle and historic run. That museum is open Tuesday to Friday 9am to 3pm and Saturday and Sunday 10am to 2pm; admission is 2€ adults, 1€ for ages 12 and under.

Marathonas, 42km (26 mi) NE of Athens. odysseus.culture.gr. 0294/55-155. Admission 6€ for battlefield and archaeological museum. Mon–Wed 8:30am–4pm (closes 3:30pm in winter). Buses depart from Pedion tou Areos Park station every 30–60 min; fare 5€; trip time 2 hr.

Monastery of Kaisariani RELIGIOUS SITE One of the most tranquil spots close to Athens is this simple monastery at the foot of Mount Hymettus, once carpeted with pine groves (sadly, decimated in recent fires). The 11th-century complex has ancient roots—it was built on the foundations of a Christian church that in turn replaced a temple to Aphrodite. The surroundings are still surprisingly bucolic, given the proximity of the city’s sprawl. A spring rising on the grounds fed the River Illisos, which in antiquity supplied the capital with water; the mountainside was famous for the honey gathered from great swarms of bees. Philosophers brought their students to Kaisariani to escape the heat of the city, as many Athenians still do. You may see brides drinking from the spring water gurgling forth near the entrance to the monastery—it’s said to help induce pregnancy. To get here by public transport, take bus 608 from stops along Leof. Vasilissis Sofias in Kolonaki, the monastery is a 3km (11⁄2 miles) walk from the end of the line.

Off Academias St., Kaisariani, about 10km (6 mi) E of central Athens. odysseus.culture.gr. 210/723-6619. Admission 2€. Wed–Mon 8:30am–6pm.

Sanctuary of Artemis at Vravrona (Brauron) ANCIENT SITE You’ll encounter many sanctuaries in Greece where ancient cults worshipped specific deities. This one is especially quirky and charming. As legend has it, a young man killed a bear that had attacked his sister, and an epidemic soon broke out. A ceremony of young girls dancing in bear masks was mounted, and the epidemic subsided. The bear-dance became a regular event, and a temple to Artemis, goddess of wild animals and the hunt, was built. (None other than Iphigenia, King Agamemnon’s daughter, who offered herself for sacrifice during the Trojan War, was once a priestess at the temple.) All that remains of the temple are some foundations, and a cave said to be the Tomb of Iphigenia. On the grounds you’ll also see a bridge that once crossed a long-ago diverted stream, with ancient stones rutted from wagon wheels. A restored stoa is lined with bedrooms, complete with small beds and tables, where the young celebrants were housed. Masks, marble heads of the girls, and other artifacts are in the small museum at the entrance. To reach the sanctuary by public transport, take the subway to Nomismatokopeio then bus 304 or 316 from there to Vravrona; trip time is about 1 hour and 45 minutes. It’s a 20-minute walk or short taxi ride from the stop to the sanctuary.

Vravrona, 38km (22 mi) E of Athens. odysseus.culture.gr. 22920/27020. Admission 6€. Apr–Dec daily 8:30am–4pm, Jan–Feb Wed–Mon 8:30am–3:30pm, Mar Wed–Mon 8:30am–4pm. Site is closed periodically for restoration works so check before setting out.

Sanctuary of Eleusis ANCIENT SITE It’s hard to imagine that present-day Eleusis, a forest of belching refineries and warehouses, was once the bucolic realm of Demeter, goddess of the harvest. As the story goes, Hades, god of the underworld, kidnapped Demeter’s daughter, Persephone. Demeter came to Eleusis in search of her daughter, and, with the intervention of Zeus (Persephone’s father), struck a deal with Hades that Persephone could return to earth for half the year. In gratitude, Demeter gave Triptolemos, son of the king of Eleusis, seeds and a chariot in which he could fly around the earth to disperse them. This story inspired the Eleusian Mysteries, rites that celebrated the cycle of life and death. Celebrants annually made their way here along the Sacred Way, which began in Kerameikos Cemetery (p. 91), to engage in rituals that only the initiated could witness, under pain of death. You can follow the Sacred Way into the Temple of Demeter, where a row of seats surrounds the hall where the rites took place. Much of what remains at the site is Roman, including an arch honoring Hadrian (it inspired the Arc de Triomphe in Paris). To reach the sanctuary by public transport, take the A16 or B16 bus from Plateia Eleftherias, just north of Monastiraki. The sanctuary is a convenient stop if you’re driving from Athens to the Peloponnese; you could also work in a visit to the Daphni Monastery (see p. 97).

Off I. Agathou, Elefsina, 23km (14 mi) W of Athens. 210/554-6019. Admission 4€. Sun–Tues 8:30am–5pm (shorter hours in winter).

Stavros Niarchos Foundation ARTS COMPLEX You will feel uplifted even before hearing a note from the Greek National Opera or seeing a rare manuscript in the airy Greek National Library, both based in this stunning complex designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano. In addition to the concert hall, noted for its acoustics, and the library, the center is a manicured landscape of parklands graced with groves of young olive trees, with expansive views of Athens and the nearby sea. You can enjoy a picnic beside a canal and dancing fountains, or take a free 90-minute English-language guided tour, conducted most days at 10am and 4:30pm (register online). From central Athens, the easiest way to reach the center, at the northern edge of the coastal Faliro neighborhood, is a free shuttle bus from Syntagma Square, with a stop at the Syngrou-Fix Metro station; it runs hourly much of the day, every half hour Friday evenings and weekends. By public transport, take the coastal tram to the Tzitzifies stop. The nearby waterfront is being transformed as a new office, residential, and entertainment quarter.

Syggrou 364. www.snfcc.org. 216/809-1000. Free admission. Most facilities: daily 6am–midnight; visitor center daily 8:30am–10pm.

Temple of Poseidon at Sounion ANCIENT SITE Commanding a 29m (95-ft.) bluff at the southernmost tip of Attica, fifteen of the original 34 columns still surround this temple to the god of the sea, commissioned in 444 b.c. by the statesman Pericles (who also built the Parthenon). The rugged coast below the temple has changed little since ancient times, making it easy to imagine the joy the landmark elicited in sailors, a sign they were nearing home. Gazing out over the sea from the temple, you can understand its role as a lookout post where sentinels kept watch for approaching warships during the Peloponnesian Wars. Many visitors come to watch the sunset from the temple. For an especially memorable view, enjoy a swim in the sea just below the temple. Note: The easiest way to visit Sounion is on one of the many organized sunset tours offered by such agencies as CHAT and Key (see p. 101). Otherwise, you can take the bus from Areos Park station, with departures every half hour for the 2-hour trip (plus 1km cab ride or walk to temple).

Cape Sounion, 70km (43m) E of Athens. 22920/39-363. Admission 4€. Daily 10am–sunset.

Organized Tours

Athens is an easy city to navigate and explore on foot, and most of what you will want to see is concentrated beneath the Acropolis around Syntagma, Monastiraki, and Omonia Squares. That said, guided tours quickly show off the highlights and can help make sense of the layers of facts and myths of Greek history. A superb introduction to the city is the Athens Free Walking Tour (www.athensfreewalkingtour.com), on which knowledgeable locals lead a fairly exhaustive 21⁄2- to 3-hour walk from Hadrian’s Arch through Plaka into Montastiraki, showing off the Roman Agora, Anafiotika, Parliament, Syntagma Square, and many other landmarks, accompanied by insightful, intelligent commentary. While you do not enter sites along the way, you will be well prepared when you return and tour on your own. Tours run daily, usually departing at 9:30am; book a place on the website, where you will also find departure times and other details. True to the name, tours are free, though it’s customary to give your guide a well-deserved tip.

Athens by Bike, near the Acropolis Museum at Athanasiou 16 (www.athensbybike.gr; 216/900-3321), provides a good introduction to the central city on two wheels. A daily 31⁄2-hour tour begins at 9:30am for 35€; other tours are also available. Athens Highlights Mythology Tours from Alternative Athens, Karaiskaki 28 (www.alternativeathens.com; 210/126-544) delve into the mythology with which the city is so deeply intertwined, with stops at such storied places as the Parthenon, Theater of Dionysus, Temple of Athena Nike, Temple of Olympian Zeus, and the Agora. Daily tours last about 4 hours and cost from 55€, entrance fees to sites included. The Athens Food Tour, from Athens Walking Tours (www.athenswalkingtours.gr; 210/884-7269) is a good introduction to Greek cuisine, with a foray into the Central Market and surrounding streets. Tours last about 31⁄2 hours and cost 49€. The company also leads excellent tours of the city’s ancient sites, with prices from about 29€.

Two commercial agencies with good itineraries and well-informed guides are CHAT Tours, 4 Stadiou (www.chatours.gr; 210/323-0827) and Key Tours, 4 Kalliroïs (www.keytours.gr; 210/923-3166). Both offer half- and full-day bus tours of the city, as well as excursions farther afield to Corinth, Delphi, and other sights (see p. 112 in chapter 5), and afternoon tours to the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion (p. 100).

The old standby, CitySightseeing (www.city-sightseeing.com) is a good way to get the lay of the land and see the major sites in one go. Open-top double-decker buses begin and end a 90-minute circuit at Syntagma Square with stops at sites that include the Acropolis, the Benaki Museum, the Central Market, Kerameikos, Kotzia Square, Monastiraki, the National Archeological Museum, Omonia Square, Panathenaiko Stadium Plaka, Psyrri, the Temple of Zeus, Thission, and the university. Prerecorded commentaries are available in English, Greek, Spanish, French, German, Italian, Russian, and Japanese. Tickets are valid for 24 hours (for instance, from 4pm of the day of first use to 4pm the following day) and buses depart every half-hour from 8:30am to 9pm. Tickets cost 20€ for adults, 8€ for ages 6 to 14. To get the most value from the 24-hour ticket, make a full circuit late in the afternoon on the first day, then use the bus to visit sites of the most interest to you the next day.

Hit the beach

It doesn’t take much to get an Athenian to the beach—and when summertime temperatures hit 46°C (115°F) in the shade, you’ll see the appeal. Fortunately, it’s easy to get to a beach near Athens. A nice string of sand follows the coastline south of the city, known as the Apollo Coast. You’ll pay anywhere from 4€ to 7€ to get onto these beaches (reduced prices for children); once you’re there you can rent sunbeds, umbrellas, and all sorts of other amenities. Traffic-choked Poseidon Avenue follows the coast; a better option is Athens’s coastal tram (www.tramsa.gr), Line 3 (Blue), which runs from Syntagma Square to the coast along a scenic route to Voula. From there you can continue to other seaside points on the 122 and other buses. The tram runs 5:30am to 1am, later on Friday and Saturday (last departure from Syntagma 2:15am, with later departures from beach stops). You can use a travel card or get tickets (1.40€) from machines at the stops. Another option is to take the Metro to the Ellinikon stop and the 122 bus from there along the coast.

In Glyfada, 17km (10 miles) south of Athens, Asteras Glyfadas , 58 Poseidonos Ave. (www.asterascomplex.com; 210/894-4548; tram Metaxa St.) offers a Miami Beach vibe: white recliners, white umbrellas, white sand (imported), and a string of bars that will deliver drinks to your lounge chair. The water can be a bit shallow and murky, but most patrons are too caught up in the scene to care.

Another 3km (2 miles) down the coast in Voula popular Voula A , 4 Alkyonidon St. ( 210/895-9632; tram Asklipiou Voulas St.) draws regular crowds of 20-somethings and teenagers who don’t seem to mind that the beach is pebbly in spots and, unless you snag a sun bed, there’s no shade. You’ll find a lot more than sand and surf here: a swimming pool, a snack bar, water slides and watersports gear (skis, tubes, and boards), parachuting, pedal boats, racquetball, beach volleyball, minisoccer, some bars, and a minimarket; the beachfront cafe and other facilities stay open at night after the beach closes. Nearby Thalassea , also known as Voula B (www.thalassea.gr; 210/895-9632) is a bit less of a scene than its neighbor, with calm, clean waters protected by breakwaters.

Just south of Voula, a 2km (1-mile) seaside path connects Mikro Kavouri and Makro Kavouri beaches, an unusually scenic stretch lined in places with palm groves and etched with some enticing coves.

One of Athens’ favorite beach getaways, Vouliagmeni , Poseidonos Ave. ( 210/967-3184), some 25km (16 miles) south of Athens, has a bit of everything: trees, shade, and sand and sea so sparkling that the beach has earned the European blue flag for cleanliness. If you desire a curative soak, Lake Vouliagmeni, just south of town, maintains a constant 24°C (75°F) temperature year-round. Cave-riddled cliffs and lots of greenery surround the lake. The scenery and allegedly curative waters (complete with “doctor” fish that administer some gentle skin-nibbling) can be enjoyed from a concession on the shoreline (www.limnivouliagmenis.com, 210/896-2237).

Across the tip of the peninsula from Vouliagmeni, the very popular Yabanaki Varkiza , on Sounion Avenue in Yabanaki ( 210/897-2414) some 30km (19 miles) southeast of Athens, is hardly a quiet getaway, with rows of sun beds and blaring beach bars. But the ride here, also on the 122 bus, is a treat, winding along the spectacular cliffs of the Attica peninsula. If you are traveling by car or taxi, it’s easy to continue from Vouliagmeni or Yabanaki to Cape Sounion, along a rocky coastline etched with coves that are great for snorkeling and swimming.

Athens Shopping

Many of the best shops catering to Athenians and their visitors are within a fairly small area in the triangle bounded by Omonia, Syntagma, and Monastiraki squares. The Plaka can seem like one giant souvenir stand, though some excellent shops are tucked along its narrow lanes. Pedestrianized Ermou Street, running west from Syntagma Square past the Plaka and Monastiraki, is the city’s main shopping strip. The Kolonaki neighborhood, on the slopes of Mount Likavitos, provides great window shopping—much of what you see in the boutiques is imported and expensive. Voukourestiou, Tsakalof, Skoufa, and Anagnostopoulou streets are other shopping avenues.

Collectibles

Antiqua One of Athens’s oldest and finest antiques dealers sells 19th-century watercolors, icons, coins, and other easy-to-carry high-end souvenirs. Irodotou 7. www.antiqua.gr. 210/323-2220. Metro: Evangelismos.

Astrolavos Art Galleries This highly touted gallery plays a big part in the Greek art scene, showing well-known and up-and-coming artists. Xanthippou 11. www.astrolavos.gr. 210/729-4342. Metro: Syntagma.

Diskadiko You’ll find new and used LPs in all genres in this passionately assembled collection on a tiny lane. Owner Iosef Aggelidis is happy to fill you in on the Greek music scene. Agias Eleousis. todiskadiko.com. 210/698-3804. Metro: Monastiraki.

Ikastikos Kiklos Sianti One of Athens’s largest and sleekest gallery showcases contemporary Greek artists. Vas. Alexandrou 2. ikastikos-kiklos.com. 210/724-5432. Metro: Evangelismos.

Old Prints The extensive stock of old maps, books, and drawings here includes some beautiful prints of flowers and birds. Kolokotroni 15. antiquebooksandprints.com. 210/323-0923. Metro: Syntagma.

Roussos Antiques Porcelain dolls in traditional costumes, made at a workshop in western Athens, are a highlight here, alongside handcrafted Greek trinkets and jewelry and other European and Middle Eastern pieces. Stadiou 3. www.roussosantiques.gr. 210/322-2815. Metro: Syntagma.

Spiridonas Tsavalos A large showroom and workshop on the premises can supply an icon of any saint you’d like. Xydia 3. ekklisiastika-eidi.com. 210/924-5054. Metro: Syngrou-Fix.

Zoumboulakis Athens’s oldest gallery has introduced the work of many Greek artists over the years. The Syntagma store specializes in silkscreens, poster art, and ceramics; a branch at 20 Kolonaki Square shows contemporary work. Kriezoutou 6. www.zoumboulakis.gr. 210/363-4454. Metro: Syntagma.

Attention, Bargain Hunters

Monastiraki lives up to its reputation for bargain hunting along Ifestou Street, a narrow lane lined with shops selling tacky souvenirs and second-hand knickknacks. The environs are especially lively on Sunday mornings, when a flea market sets up in Abyssinia Square and the surrounding streets. Some worthy antiques can be unearthed, but the mounds of vintage clothing and old housewares make it clear why the square is also known as Paliatzidika (the “secondhand-shop district”).

Books & Magazines

Kiosk Athens’s best-stocked foreign-press periptero (kiosk) never closes, which is fortunate for news and magazine junkies. 18 Omonia Sq. at Athinas St. 210/322-2402. Metro: Omonia.

Stoa tou Vivliou An entire shopping arcade devoted to books includes rare volumes, current editions (some in English), and rare bindings. A bibliophile’s delight. Pesmzoglou 5. 210/325-3989. Metro: Omonia.

Department Stores

Attica Up-and-coming Greek designers are showcased through eight floors of fashionable clothing in the landmark City Link building. The store also sells high-end furniture and housewares. Panepistimiou 9. www.atticadps.gr. 211/180-2600. Metro: Syntagma.

Hondos Center The flagship store of this toiletries chain has all the grooming items you’ll ever need, along with clothing for men and women, kitchenware, linen luggage, and many other accessories. Check out the lavish perfume counters or stop on the top floor to enjoy the view of the city over coffee. 4 Omonia Sq. www.hondos.gr. 213/039-4000. Metro: Omonia.

Notos Home Everything for the home, including fine crystal, fills eight floors of the Omonia outpost. Kratinou 5 at Kotzia Sq. www.notoshome.gr. 210/374-3000. Metro: Omonia.

Fashion & Beauty

Aptiva The spotlight is on bees in this multi-floor Kolonaki shop where cosmetics and soaps are crafted from royal jelly, honey, and pollen. In the top-floor spa, clients enjoy honey-based treatments in hive-inspired cubicles. Solonos 6. www.apivita.com. 210/364-0560. Metro: Syntagma.

Dimos Jewelry Byzantine designs, reproductions of ancient pieces, and other classics are the mainstays of this Plaka shop founded by Sotiris Dimos in 1968, now in the hands of son and master designer Stavors. Mpenizelou Palaiologou 3. www.dimosjewellery.gr. 210/321-4302. Metro: Syntagma.

Stavros Melissinos Sophia Loren, Jackie O., and Anthony Quinn are among the celebs who’ve sported these handmade leather sandals, first created in 1954 by Stavros Melissinos, the “poet shoemaker.” Son Pantellis now runs the enterprise. Tzireon 16. melissinos-sandals-poet.com. 210/321-9247. Metro: Akropoli.

Food & Wine

Arapian Pastourma (air-dried cured beef) and soutzouki (spicy sausage) are specialties at this legendary shop, a mainstay of the market district since the 1930s. Items can be vacuum-packed for easy transport. Evripidou 41. 210/321-7238. Metro: Monastiraki or Omonia.

Ariana Lanes around the Central Market are lined with shops that specialize in one foodstuff; here the specialty is olives, with barrels brimming with varieties from around Greece, along with fine olive oils. Olives can be vacuum-packed. Theatrou 3. 210/321-1839. Metro: Monastiraki or Omonia.

Aristokratikon Athens’s premier purveyor of chocolate has been turning out decadently rich creations since 1928. Voulis 7. www.aristokratikon.com. 210/322-0546. Metro: Syntagma.

Bahar Spices and dried herbs from Greek mountainsides are accompanied by herbal oils and other elixirs; the bags of herbs and mountain teas are ideal for easy-to-carry gifts. Evripidou 31. www.bahar-spices.gr. 210/321-7225. Metro: Omonia or Monastiraki.

Karavan The dessert-deprived can sate their cravings here; bite-sized, honey-soaked baklava and kadaifi (Greek pastry with nuts and syrup) are the specialties. Voukourestiou 11. 210/364-1540. Metro: Syntagma.

Loumidis This old-fashioned coffee roaster has been around since 1920. You can choose from a huge variety of Greek and Turkish coffees and the briki (traditional little coffee pots) in which to brew them. Aiolou 106 at Panepistimiou St. 210/321-6965. Metro: Omonia.

Gifts

Amorgos Wooden utensils, embroidered linens, shadow puppets—anything Greek-made seems to find a place on the crowded shelves in this standout amid the Plaka tourist shops. Kodrou 3. 210/324-3836. Metro: Syntagma.

Center of Hellenic Tradition Genuine folk arts and crafts from around Greece, including pottery, decorative roof tiles, and old-fashioned painted-wood shop signs, are on offer, as is delicious light fare in the shop’s cafe. Pandrossou 36. 301/321-3842. Metro: Monastiraki.

Ekavi Tavli (backgammon) sets—the game of choice for Greece’s cafe crowd—and chess sets with pieces resembling Olympic athletes and Greek gods are handmade by the Manopoulos workshops in wood, metal, or stone. Mitropoleos 36. www.manopoulos.com. 210/942-1791. Metro: Monastiraki or Syntagma.

Ethnikos Organismos Pronias (National Welfare Organization) Traditional Greek designs include rugs, tapestries, and beautifully embroidered linens made by disadvantaged women around the country. Prices start at 20€ for a small embroidery. Ypatias 6. 210/321-8272. Metro: Syntagma.

Kombologadiko Fashioned from bone, stone, wood, or antique amber, komboloi (“worry” beads) sold here can be used as a stress reliever or worn as jewelry. Amerikis 9. www.kombologadiko.gr. 212/700-0500. Metro: Panepistimiou.

Konstantopoulou On Lekka Street’s long row of silver shops, Konstantopoulou has the best selection of table settings, candlesticks, cutlery, and the like. Lekka 23–25. www.silverware.gr. 210/322-7997. Metro: Syntagma.

Mala (Komboloi Club) Beautiful amber worry beads are the house specialty, though komboloi fashioned from many other materials are also available; prices run from 15€ to 9,000€. Praxitelous 1. www.komboloiclub.com. 210/331-0145. Metro: Panepistimiou.

Nightlife & Entertainment

The Performing Arts

Athens’s biggest performing arts event, the Athens and Epidaurus Festival, stages drama, opera, symphonies, ballet, and modern dance, with dazzling performances by an international roster of stars. The Odeon of Herodes Atticus (p. 83) is one of many venues hosting evening performances in June and July; the sight of the Acropolis looming overhead is no small part of the spectacle. The remarkably well-preserved Theater of Ancient Epidaurus and the adjacent Little Theater of Ancient Epidaurus, about 2 hours south of Athens, stage many of the festival’s productions of classical drama, on Friday and Saturday evenings from early July through mid-August; packages include transport by bus. The festival box office is at Panepistimiou 39 (www.greekfestival.gr; 210/928-2900; metro Syntagma).

Athenaeum International Cultural Centre Dedicated to Greek-American opera legend Maria Callas, the center sponsors many classical concerts, including a winter and spring series at its neoclassical headquarters. The Maria Callas Grand Prix competition for operatic vocalists and pianists brings international talent to the city in March. One of the city’s top events, an annual concert on or around September 16 (the anniversary of Callas’s death) is staged at the Odeon of Herodus Atticus. Adrianou 3. www.athenaeum.com.gr. 210/321-1987. Metro Thissio or Monastiraki.

Dora Stratou This beloved institution has been performing traditional Greek folk dances at a beautiful garden theater on Filopappou Hill since 1953. Daily evening performances run from June through September. Scholiou 8. www.grdance.org. 210/324-4395. Metro: Akropoli or Petralona. Bus 230. Trolley 15.

Gagarin 205 This cavernous modern hall hosts rock concerts, with a lineup of Greek and international stars playing to crowds of 1,300 or more. Check the website for schedule. In summer, the action moves to Gagarin venues on the coast. Liosion 205. www.gagarin205.gr. 211/411-2500. Metro: Attikis.

Megaron Exceptionally fine acoustics make this sleek modern venue a standout on the classical musical circuit. Recitals, symphonic performances, and other programs by an international roster of musical talent run from September to June. Vas. Sofias and Kokkali. www.megaron.gr. 210/7228-2714. Metro: Megaron Mousikis.

Olympia Municpal Theatre Maria Callas This grand old hall in Omonia, former home of the Greek National Opera (now at the Stavros Niarchos Center, see below), hosts concerts and theater performances at affordable prices, often for free. Letters, photographs, handbags, and other personal effects of the theater’s namesake, the great opera star Maria Callas, are displayed in the foyer. Akadimias 59–61. 210/371–1200. Metro: Panepistimio.

Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center The Greek National Opera performs in stunning Stavros Niarchos Hall, as does the Greek National Opera Ballet. The Alternative Stage hosts children’s opera and new works. See p. 100 for more about the center, including transport options. Syggrou 364. www.nationalopera.gr. 213/088-5700.

Technopolis What was once a fume-spewing factory is now a trendy art center and a dramatic backdrop for cutting-edge concerts and dance. In late May and early June, the center stages the Athens Technopolis Jazz Festival. 100 Piraeos St. athens-technopolis.gr. 213/010-9300. Metro: Kerameikos.

Nightlife

It’s pretty easy to find a club or bar in Athens. When in doubt, head to Psyrri, once a nighttime nest of hooligans but now the place to partake of nightlife. Gazi is the city’s up-and-coming gay district, with bars and clubs catering to men and women, straight and gay. Clubs and bars in Exarchia are popular with students from nearby Athens University. The streets and squares of the Plaka, Monastiraki, and Thissio are chockablock with outdoor cafes and bars, many with gardens or rooftops. Kolokotroni Street, running from Plaka into Monastiraki, is lined with late-night spots, many around Agias Irinis Square. Kolonaki, a residential enclave just east of Syntagma, is also a popular stop for cocktails and late-night drinks with sophisticated overtones.

Most nightspots don’t heat up until midnight, and many don’t even open until 11pm and stay open until 5 or 6am. Also note that many of the bigger dance clubs in Athens close for the summer and move to the sea coast.

A summertime staple for those who remain in the city is outdoor cinema. Two old favorites are Cine Thission, beneath the Hill of the Nymphs at Apostolou Pavlou 7 (www.cine-thissio.gr; 210/343-0864; metro Thissio) and Cine Paris, in the Plaka at Kydathineon 22 (www.cineparis.gr; 210/322-2071; metro Akropoli). Both are open nightly from May into September and often screen English-language films with Greek subtitles. Films usually begin at 9pm. Whatever’s on the screen, the sight of the beautifully lit Acropolis floating above the city usually steals the show.

Bars & Lounges

Akrotiri Lounge One of Athens’s most popular seaside playgrounds, Akrotiri is stylish and just plain fun, with tropical decor, a beach, a big swimming pool, many dance floors and bars, decent Mediterranean cuisine, and excellent music running the gamut from Greek to hip-hop and R&B. It’s about 6.8km (41⁄4 miles) from central Athens, along the coast. Leof Vas Georgiou B5, Agios Kosmas. www.akrotirilounge.gr. 210/985-9147. Tram: Elliniko.

Baba au Rum Rum-based concoctions are the specialty in these quirky, cozy surroundings, but other exotic drinks are available, too, as well as a surprisingly large range of nonalcoholic house-made sodas. Klitiou 6. babaaurum.com. 211/710-9140. Metro: Syntagma or Monastiraki.

Balthazar A beautiful courtyard garden and the elegant interiors of a neoclassical mansion attract a well-heeled crowd who enjoy lounge music and a light menu. Tsocha 27. www.balthazar.gr. 210/644-1215. Metro: Ambelokipi.

Baraonda At the edge of Kolonaki near the big international hotels, this small garden is a popular outdoor spot in summer, catering to business travelers and cosmopolitan Athenians. In winter, it moves inside to red velvet curtains, candles, stone walls, and chandeliers. Polished food and cocktails come with live music most nights. Tsocha 43. 210/644-4308. Metro: Ambelokipi.

Cinque Wine Bar Two intimate spaces, one in Psyrri and the other in Monastiraki, introduce you to dozens of wines from throughout Greece, accompanied by cheeses and other light fare. Psyrri: Agatharchou 15. Metro: Thisssio. Monastiraki: Voreou 2. Metro: Monastiraki. www.cinque.gr. 215/501-7853.

The Clumsies Several levels of smartly designed indoor-outdoor spaces in a 1919 neoclassical building provide a relaxed setting for cocktails by night, a café menu by day. Praxitelous 30. theclumsies.gr. Metro: Panepistimio.

Podilato Laid-back, stylishly retro, and perpetually crowded, the “Bicycle” in Exarchia caters largely to students who seem determined to drink and talk until dawn against a backdrop of DJ music. Themistokleous 48. 210/330-3430. Metro: Omonia.

Thirio It’s hard not to fall under the spell of this fabled Psyrri nightspot. Jazz and Latin music wafts through two levels divided into little cubbyholes, lit by candles, and decorated with African tribal artifacts. Lepeniotou 1. 694/246-7463. Metro: Monastiraki.

360 Cocktail Bar The name, of course, refers to the Acropolis views, and they’re smashing. It’s an all-day stop, from morning coffee to cocktails. Ifaistou 2. www.three-sixty.gr. 210/321-0006. Metro: Monastiraki.

Hotel Lounges

A for Athens One way to attract attention to a hotel is to perch a lively bar on the roof. With its highly visible sign, this all-day indoor/outdoor venue has become a navigation point in the central city, but the real draw is the 360-views from just about any seat, accompanied by well-crafted cocktails. A for Athens Hotel, Miaouli 2–4. aforathens.com. 210/324-4244. Metro: Monastiraki.

Air Lounge This is the place to get away from it all, in an outdoor garden that surrounds the pool and overlooks the Acropolis—hands-down one of the most relaxing spots in the busy, gritty center of town. Fresh Hotel, Sofokleous 26. www.freshhotel.gr. 210/524-8511. Metro: Omonia.

Alexander’s An 18th-century tapestry of Alexander the Great hangs over the bar, keeping an eye on what many seasoned travelers claim is the best hotel lounge in the world. It has a clubby, old-boy atmosphere, but the “old boy” next to you might be a prince or an oil baron. Try the signature drink, the Mandarin Napoleon Select, a delicious concoction laced with the oils of Sicilian tangerines. Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Sq. 210/333-0000. Metro: Syntagma.

Galaxy Bar This landmark bar on the top floor of the Hilton comes with a gorgeous view of the Acropolis. A couple of nights a week in summer you’ll get a bonus—the hotel hosts a rooftop barbecue when you can use the pool for free (check the website for details before you dive in). Hilton Hotel, Vas. Sofias 46. www.hiltonathens.gr. 210/728-1000. Metro: Evangelismos.

Music Bars & Dance Clubs

Bios This Psyrri hotspot does multi-duty as a club, screening room, art gallery, and cafe, often adding to the mix with excellent music in a basement nightclub and hip roof garden. Pireos 84. www.bios.gr. 210/342-5335. Metro: Kerameikos.

Booze Cooperativa Three floors of an old factory offer a little bit of everything—coffeehouse, bar, dance club, art gallery, screening room, meeting place. Music is often live, at other times provided by some of the city’s most popular DJs. Should you still wish to smoke while clubbing, this is the place to do so; Booze is registered as a political headquarters, exempting it from the city’s smoking ban. Kolokotroni 57. www.boozecooperativa.com. 211/405-3733. Metro: Monastiraki.

Cantina Social A Psyrri neighborhood favorite, Cantina Social never seems to slow down, from morning coffee to a swinging late-night scene, with diverse music accompanied by projected art in the courtyard. Leokoriou 6-8. 210/325-1668. Metro: Kerameikos.

Half Note The city’s most popular venue for jazz, tucked away in a quiet corner behind the Temple of Olympian Zeus, has hosted the greats for the past 30 years. Trivonianou 17. www.halfnote.gr. 210/921-3310. Bus: A3, B3, 057.

Kapnikerea This café and music club serves excellent international fare from morning through night. The attraction for many patrons is live rebetika, the Greek equivalent of blues. Music begins as early as 2:30pm and, quite unlike the smoky lairs of rebetika legend, ends before midnight. Ermou 57. 210/322-7394. Metro: Monastiraki or Syntagma.

Six D.O.G.S. Four adjoining bars in Monastiraki join forces to create one of the city’s hippest venues, combining a laid-back library, sleek cocktail lounge, and huge dance hall/performance space. The music, provided by popular DJs and bands, is enhanced with remarkable acoustics that bring dancers out in force. Avramiotou 6–8. sixdogs.gr. 210/321-0510. Metro: Monastiraki.

The Speakeasy It’s underground and hard to find, as befits the Prohibition-era name and the funky 1920s-style décor. Live jazz or DJed sets accompany a lively buzz and excellent cocktails. Lekka 12. Metro: Syntagma.

Stamatopoulos A cool garden and nostalgic wall murals set the mood for a night of traditional rebetika and bouzoukia music, accompanied by good taverna fare and decent house wine. Lissiou 26. www.stamatopoulostavern.gr. 210/322-8722. Metro Syntagma.

Gay & Lesbian Bars & Clubs

Big Bar That’s “big” as in bear, though the less hirsute are also welcome in these laid-back, sociable Gazi surroundings. Falaisias 12. 694/628-2845. Metro: Kerameikos.

My Bar More intimate and less rowdy than its Gazi counterparts, this Monastiraki bar is just as energetic and all the better for a slightly grown-up vibe. 6 Kakourgiodikiou. www.mybar.gr. 210/86-2161. Metro: Monastiraki.

Noiz Club Big and noisy, this Gazi club offers two dance floors and two DJs. It’s especially popular with gay women but welcomes all. It’s crowded until 4am or 6am on weekends. Leof. Konstantinoupoleos 78. 210/346-7850. Metro: Kerameikos.

Sodade 2 A mainstay in gay-friendly Gazi, Sodade 2 is popular with men and women, whatever their tastes might be. It gets packed on weekend nights. Triptolemou 10. 210/346-8657. Metro: Kerameikos.

Casinos

Club Hotel Casino Loutraki In the seaside resort town of the same name, 80km (50 miles) south of Athens, this complex has 80 gaming tables, 1,000 slot machines, a luxury hotel, a restaurant, and a spa. Many older gamblers soak in curative hot springs between bouts at the slots. A Casino Express bus ( 210/523-4188 or 210/523-4144) makes frequent runs to and from Athens. 48 Poseidonos Ave. www.clubhotelloutraki.gr. 27440/65-501.

Regency Casino Mont Parnes A cable car takes you up Mount Parnitha, 18km (11 miles) north of central Athens, to this casual, laid-back casino complex with 50 table games and more than 500 slot machines. You can’t get away with shorts, though no one will insist on a jacket and tie, either. Entrance fee is 6€. Aharnon. www.regency.gr. 210/242-1234.