There’s something magical that happens when you cook lamb over wood fire. The smoke tends to tame some of the gamy flavors from this protein, and a mix of sweet and earthy flavors emerge. From ground lamb to a dramatic crown roast, there are incredible things that await with this flavorful meat.
Adding a little contrast to the lamb flavor is another great way to make lamb shine. We do this with an orange glaze or a mint salsa verde. The key with lamb is getting it as fresh as possible. That gamy flavor gets more intense the longer the time from when the lamb was processed. Marbling, like steak, is another item to keep an eye out for. The intramuscular fat flavors the meat and is important when selecting your cuts.
Neither of us grew up eating much lamb. It wasn’t until Mary was in her late twenties that she even tried it for the first time, and she was admittedly a bit nervous. But, hot damn, she was an instant fan. Think of this cut as being similar to a pork chop or rib-eye steak but with a delicate texture and sweet taste. Grilling brings down any gaminess of the lamb, and the salsa verde topping makes a fantastic complement to the flavors of the meat. The salsa verde is comparable to a chimichurri sauce but with a little kick and a greater amount of bright herbs.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
For the salsa verde
2 cups fresh Italian parsley, stems removed
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped shallots (about 1 small shallot)
½ medium jalapeño pepper, seeds and membrane removed, chopped (1 tablespoon)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon capers
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
For the lamb
4 (½-pound) lamb steaks
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons Savory Rub (this page)
To make the salsa verde, put the parsley, lemon juice, vinegar, shallots, jalapeño, mint, garlic, capers, oregano, and salt in a food processor and pulse a few times to combine. Slowly drizzle in the oil and continue pulsing, until the sauce is well chopped but not pureed.
To make the lamb, prepare the grill for direct cooking.
Coat each lamb steak with ½ teaspoon of the oil, then apply ½ teaspoon of the Savory Rub to each steak on both sides.
Cook the lamb over direct heat for 5 minutes. Flip and cook for another 5 minutes, or until the temperature reads 135 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes. Drizzle the salsa verde over each lamb steak.
WINE PAIRING: The delicate flavor of the lamb shines here and is accented by the fresh herb salsa. Avoid powerful and rich wines for this dish. A bolder pinot noir is a fantastic match. Southern Rhône reds and sangiovese also work well.
A crown lamb roast makes for an incredibly festive centerpiece for any holiday or special occasion. It’s also easy to slice into equal portions for your guests, and nobody is left fighting for a bone piece (they all get one). This impressive display is formed by connecting two lamb rib racks (usually with eight bones each), tied together. The racks usually come with fat to the end of the bone, so ask your butcher to french them, as this can be a challenge to do yourself. Let the butcher know you’re making a crown roast and he or she will know what to do.
Instead of stuffing the crown roast before cooking (as many recipes will have you do), roast some root vegetables or potatoes on the side and stuff them in the hollow opening of the roast just before serving.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
For the herb paste
1 cup fresh parsley, stems removed
3 tablespoons roughly chopped shallots
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh sage
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh oregano
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh thyme
1½ teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon roughly chopped garlic
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
For the lamb
2 racks of lamb, frenched (8 bones each)
1½ teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
Special tool
Cooking twine
To make the herb paste, put the parsley, shallots, sage, lemon juice, oregano, thyme, rosemary, garlic, and salt in a food processor. Pulse twice. Turn the processor on and slowly add the oil. Continue to process for 1 minute. Using a spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl and process again for 1 minute.
To make the lamb, trim any excess fat, then apply the herb paste liberally to both racks.
Preheat the smoker to 225 degrees F using cherrywood or applewood.
Next, construct a crown following the instructions on this page. Create a circle with the two racks with the bones facing up and the meat facing inside the circle. To tie the roast, wrap the entire roast with cooking twine where the flesh meets the exposed bone and tighten slightly. Repeat this at the base of the rib and tighten. Place on a baking sheet.
Transfer the roast from the baking sheet to the grill and insert a meat probe. Smoke for 90 minutes, or until the internal temperature is 130 degrees F.
Set the grill for direct grilling or use a large cast-iron skillet on the stove over high heat to sear. Cook over direct heat until the temperature of the lamb reaches 135 to 140 degrees F.
Remove the roast from the smoker and place on your serving tray. If you have roasted any veggies or potatoes, stuff them inside the roast. Slice and serve at the table after resting 15 minutes.
WINE PAIRING: This is an elegant meal, and the meat is super tender and full of flavor. Syrah is a favorite here, ideally from Washington State or northern Rhône. A bold pinot noir or cabernet franc works too, especially one with an earthy or herbal style.
1 Tie kitchen twine onto a skewer and thread between the top of the first and second bone.
2 Pull the twine through and align the other rib rack directly next to it.
3 On the second rib rack, thread the twine through the top of the first and second rib.
4 Pull the twine through. Optional: repeat the same steps for the bottom portion of the rib.
5 Tie a double knot tightly so that the two ribs are held closely together.
6 Cut off the free side of the twine. The other side should remain intact.
7 Bring twine along the frenched side of the ribs and use skewer to punch through the first and second rib.
8 Align racks and thread the skewer through the other rack between the first and second bone. Tie it off.
Braised lamb shanks make for such an elegant winter meal. By smoking the lamb first for a few hours, you’re imparting incredible flavor to the final dish. Finish the lamb in a stockpot filled with earthy vegetables, red wine, beef stock, and herbs, and you’ve got yourself an exquisite meal for a dinner party or date night at home.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
4 lamb shanks
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons Beef Rub (this page)
½ cup diced yellow onion
½ cup diced carrots
½ cup diced celery
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup dry red wine
3 cups beef stock
1 large rosemary sprig
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 bay leaf
Preheat the smoker to 225 degrees F using cherrywood or applewood.
Coat each lamb shank with 1½ teaspoons of the oil and season each with 1½ teaspoons of the Beef Rub.
Place the shanks on the smoker and cook until the internal temperature is 165 degrees F. This will take 90 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the shank size. Remove the shanks from the smoker.
Meanwhile, in a large saucepan over medium heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the onions, carrots, and celery and sauté for 8 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft (but not caramelized). Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes.
Add the shanks and wine, and bring the wine to a simmer. Add the beef stock, rosemary, tomato paste, and bay leaf. Bring back to a simmer, then cover and let simmer at the lowest heat for another 2 hours, or until the shanks are fork-tender. Serve over a creamy root vegetable puree or creamy polenta or with some crusty bread to soak up the juices.
WINE PAIRING: This richly flavored and earthy dish works wonders with a New World cabernet franc, syrah, malbec, tempranillo from Ribera del Duero, or a hearty, earthy Old World wine such as a Rhône blend or young Bordeaux red.
We created this recipe to pair with an orange-style wine, in this case riesling. It had an interesting mix of earthy and orange flavors which we incorporated into the glaze for these meatballs. This is a really cool pairing for a unique wine and flavorful lamb.
MAKES 12 TO 14 MEATBALLS
For the meatballs
1 pound ground lamb, 80 percent lean/20 percent fat or 85 percent lean/15 percent fat
¼ cup diced white onion
1 egg, beaten
1 teaspoon minced garlic
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon red chili pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon cumin
For the marmalade
1 (12-ounce) jar orange marmalade (some European jars are 13 ounces)
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ teaspoon crushed red chili pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
To make the meatballs, preheat the smoker to 225 degrees F using applewood or cherrywood.
In a large bowl, combine the lamb, onion, egg, garlic, paprika, salt, black pepper, pepper flakes, and cumin. Mix gently with your hands until the ingredients are incorporated.
Roll the mixture into golf ball–size meatballs (about 1 tablespoon) and place them on a baking sheet.
Put the baking sheet on the smoker for up to 1 hour, or until the meatballs come to an internal temperature of 160 degrees F. Once the meatballs are done smoking, make the marmalade.
To make the marmalade, combine the jarred marmalade, vinegar, pepper flakes, and salt in a medium saucepan over low heat and bring to a simmer. Cook for 8 minutes. Add the meatballs, and let simmer for an additional 10 minutes.
Remove the meatballs from the marmalade and enjoy.
WINE PAIRING: Funky flavors call for a funky wine. We find this recipe fascinating with a slightly oxidized wine, which can add richness and umami characteristics. Sherry and Madeira are examples of oxidized wines, as are wines from the Jura region of France. Another interesting choice is an orange-style wine (a white wine made similar to a red wine, fermented with skin contact so it turns amber).
This is our take on a classic beef dish. We start with ground lamb, smoke for additional flavor, then use that as the base for this superrich and thick ragù. The texture is divine, and the slow simmer incorporates the red sauce into the meat, making this dish a great pairing with wine.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1 pound ground lamb
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
½ cup diced celery
½ cup diced red onion
½ cup diced carrot
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup dry red wine
1 (28-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes
½ cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon dried fennel
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
½ teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
8 fresh basil leaves, chopped
1 pound pasta, such as pappardelle, rigatoni, or penne
½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese
Preheat the smoker to 225 degrees F using cherrywood.
Break up the lamb into smaller chunks, place them on a baking sheet, and then into the smoker. Smoke for 45 minutes, then remove and set aside.
In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the celery, onions, and carrots. Sauté for 8 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute.
Add the wine and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes to reduce. Add the tomatoes, chicken stock, tomato paste, salt, fennel, coriander, rosemary, pepper, and lamb. Stir to combine.
Cover and simmer on low for 2 hours, until reduced.
When the ragù is almost done, cook the pasta according to package directions.
Remove the ragù from the heat and stir in the basil.
Serve the ragù with the pasta, topped with the Parmesan.
WINE PAIRING: This rich and hearty pasta dish shines with Chianti (or other sangiovese), barbera, Bordeaux blends, Rhône-style blends, and even fuller-bodied pinot noirs.
Ground lamb makes for an incredible base for a great burger. Ditch the traditional Greek-style burger filled with feta, cucumbers, and tzatziki, which frankly mask the flavors of that delicious meat. Instead, season simply and top with an easy horseradish-and-ketchup mayonnaise. Let those authentic flavors of the lamb shine through.
MAKES 4 BURGERS
1¼ pounds ground lamb 80 percent lean/20 percent fat
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon Poultry Rub (this page)
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon horseradish, divided
4 slices provolone cheese
4 soft brioche buns
½ cup ketchup
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 head butter lettuce
½ cup Smoked Pickled Onions (this page)
Prepare the grill for direct/indirect cooking.
In a large bowl, combine the lamb, Worcestershire sauce, Poultry Rub, and 1 teaspoon of the horseradish. Mix with your hands to incorporate. Divide into 4 portions and shape into burgers. The burgers shrink while they cook, so we strive for a little more than ¼ pound precooked weight per burger. Grill, covered, 6 to 7 minutes over direct heat. Flip, cover, and cook another 6 to 7 minutes. Move the burgers to indirect heat. The temperature of the patty should range from 100 to 120 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer at this point. You want a nice sear but not a burned patty when moving it to the indirect heat.
Cook until the internal temperature of the meat is 150 degrees F. Top each burger with a slice of cheese and cook 8 minutes, or until the internal temperature is 160 degrees F and the cheese is melted.
Remove from the heat and let sit for 10 minutes while toasting the buns. Place the buns on the grill over direct heat, cut side down, for 2 minutes, or until a nice light toast appears.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. In a small bowl, combine the ketchup, mayonnaise, and the remaining 1 tablespoon horseradish. This sauce is delicious on french fries as well.
Construct the burgers. On the bottom bun, layer the lettuce, patty, sauce, Smoked Pickled Onions, and top bun.
WINE PAIRING: Grenache, mourvedre, pinot noir, or even a juicy syrah all work wonders with this equally juicy and tender burger.
