We could probably write an entire book on the bounty of the sea and rivers of the Pacific Northwest and wood-fired food. It all starts with the fish. Trout and salmon have been smoked and served here for millennia. Whitefish (trout, sea bass, halibut, cod) take to smoke really well, and they grill fast over direct heat. Adding smoke to salmon just brings out more of the rich flavor.
Dungeness crab pots can be seen in the early part of our year, making fresh crab plentiful. Grilled crab cakes make an easy and flavorful dish as a meal or an appetizer. Scallops are also widely available and have such a rich, buttery character. They are perfect for a hot and fast cook.
When sourcing seafood, we go with line-caught fish or seafood that isn’t farmed. With farmed fish, you may get fattier texture, which is good for smoking, but you don’t get that taste of the sea. We encourage you to consider wild-caught fish as often as you can for best results, but recognize some fish like trout are often farm raised.
Look for diver scallops, referred to as dry or day boat scallops, which are harvested by hand right from the sea and should smell like the ocean. They aren’t treated with any chemicals, unlike wet scallops, which are treated with a phosphate solution and water to extend their life. Wet scallops absorb some of that water, plumping them up and as a result reducing the pure flavors. Diver scallops should have a sweeter and more natural flavor. The only downside is they don’t stay fresh long, so they’re best cooked soon after purchasing.
They are ridiculously delicious grilled and tossed in our sweet Smoked Honey Butter.
MAKES 2 SERVINGS
1 pound jumbo sea scallops (ideally, diver scallops), rinsed and patted dry
1 tablespoon Sweet Rub (this page)
2 tablespoons Smoked Honey Butter (recipe follows)
Pinch of finishing salt
Prepare the grill for direct/indirect cooking.
Season the scallops liberally with the Sweet Rub on both sides.
Grill over direct heat (consider using a plancha or cast-iron pan if the scallops are small) for 3 to 4 minutes, flip, and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes, or until the internal temperature of a scallop is 130 degrees F. Remove from the grill.
Meanwhile, in a small cast-iron skillet on the coolest part of the grill, heat the Smoked Honey Butter until just melted.
Place the scallops on a serving dish, drizzle with Smoked Honey Butter, and sprinkle with the salt.
WINE PAIRING: Scallops work well with a medium- to full-bodied white or with a high-acid wine that will counterbalance the richness. Chardonnays of all kinds (whether oaked or crisp and fruity) are great matches for these scallops. Sparkling wine also works fantastically as well. Other alternatives include chenin blanc, albariño, or even off-dry riesling. Avoid red wines with this dish because most will overpower the flavors of the sweet scallops and butter sauce.
A crowd pleaser at many of our events, smoked honey butter is an easy infusion of smoke into the honey, which is then whisked with butter. It’s great as a base for a sauce or as a spread for bread topped with finishing salt. Because honey comes in various jar sizes, we have learned a rough ratio is to use two-thirds the butter to the honey. For example, for a sixteen-ounce jar of honey, add eleven ounces of butter. For a twelve-ounce jar, use eight ounces of butter. You can roll and freeze the honey butter for use throughout the year.
MAKES 2½ CUPS
1 (12-ounce) jar local honey
8 ounces unsalted butter, at room temperature
Pinch of finishing salt
Preheat the smoker to 200 degrees F using applewood or cherrywood.
Put the honey in a smoker-safe dish (we use a small glass dish) and place on the smoker for 3 hours.
Remove from the smoker, and allow the honey to come to room temperature.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the butter and honey and mix on high speed until whipped, about 3 minutes. It comes together quickly.
Transfer to a serving container and top with finishing salt.
NOTE: It is important to keep the smoker under 212 degrees F and avoid boiling the honey. You want to see steam rising. It is also important to allow the honey to come to room temperature before whipping; otherwise, the butter will melt and the texture will be more liquid than whipped. Some honey is thicker than others. If you find the honey is not easily pouring into your smoker-safe dish, mix 2 tablespoons of water with the honey to thin it out. We have put as much as ¼ cup of water in 12 ounces of honey, depending on the consistency.
Trout, which is readily available in the Pacific Northwest, has a light texture and mild flavor. It doesn’t require much to enhance its flavor, so when we grill it, we love to do the whole fish. Stuff the trout with aromatic herbs to add distinct flavors.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
4 (1½- to 2-pound) whole trout, gutted, rinsed, and dried
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Savory Rub (this page)
2 lemons (1 sliced thin, 1 cut in half for grilling)
4 large sprigs fresh rosemary
8 large sprigs fresh thyme
½ red onion, thinly sliced
¾ teaspoon capers, chopped
Pinch of finishing salt
Prepare the grill for direct/indirect cooking.
If your trout are large, they may need to be scaled. To do so, place your hand on the tail. Using the blade side of a fillet knife, scrape the fish from tail to head in one direction a few times. Do this on both sides of the fish.
Next, crosshatch the trout using an X scoring pattern twice on the skin side of each fish. This simply means you cut slightly through the skin and into the flesh, not deeply, to allow seasoning and smoke to better permeate the flesh.
Coat the outside of each trout with 1½ teaspoons of the oil.
Season the trout from the inside out, using 1½ teaspoons of the Savory Rub per fish. Start with a light coating of rub in the fish cavity, and then season both sides.
Stuff the cavity of each trout with 2 or 3 lemon slices, 1 rosemary sprig, 2 thyme sprigs, and a few slices of onion. Don’t be afraid to jam these in the cavity.
Using butcher’s twine, tie the fish closed in two places to keep the stuffing intact when flipping on the grill.
Grill the trout, covered, for up to 7 minutes per side. The fillets are small and will cook quickly on each side. If you have flare-ups, move the trout to the indirect side after a quick sear and cover.
Remove the trout from the grill when the internal temperature of the fish is 130 degrees F. While the trout are still warm, squeeze fresh lemon juice and scatter the capers over the fish, then sprinkle a pinch of finishing salt.
NOTE: To grill lemons, cut in half through the middle and grill over direct heat for 6 to 7 minutes, or until desired char marks appear.
WINE PAIRING: Fruity, bright acidic whites pair well with this lively dish. Pinot blanc, albariño, and chenin blanc all work nicely too.
A good crab cake is one of our favorite treats in the world. Grilling is a fantastic way to maintain the integrity of that tender, sweet crab meat, while intensifying the flavor. You can grill directly on the grill grates, but they need to be very clean and well oiled. We prefer to cook them in a cast-iron skillet heated over a charcoal grill, which cooks the crab cakes while also imparting some smoke flavor.
With crab, you get what you pay for, so make sure you’re ready to splurge on the good stuff. It’s so worth it!
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 pound Dungeness crab, lump meat, precooked
½ cup panko bread crumbs
¼ cup chopped shallots
¼ teaspoon red chili pepper flakes
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 egg
1 teaspoon Sweet Rub (this page)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for the pan
In a large bowl, combine the crab, bread crumbs, shallots, pepper flakes, crème fraîche, garlic, egg, and Sweet Rub. Form the mixture into 2½-inch patties about ½ inch thick. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
Prepare the grill for direct/indirect grilling.
Place a cast-iron skillet over direct heat and add oil to coat. Allow the pan and oil to warm for a few minutes.
Add the crab cakes gently; you should hear a sizzle. Cook the crab cakes for 3 to 4 minutes, then flip. Cook for another 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden brown.
Remove and serve with your favorite dipping sauce. We like our Basic Aioli (this page).
WINE PAIRING: Reach for sparkling wines with crab cakes. There’s nothing better for the delicate, sweet flavors of the Dungeness crab, and the bubbles cut through the richness and crunchy outer textures of the cakes. You can splurge and go big with Champagne (yes, please!) or go easy with Cava or a domestic blanc de blancs–style bubbly. Pinot blanc also works quite nicely, as does albariño.
Tacos are something we enjoy with our kids several times a week! It’s one of the most crowd-friendly meals on the planet. For fish tacos, cod is our go-to affordable cut that easily marinates. Take the grill flavor, then add the texture of the slaw and the bright flavor of a crema, and you have our go-to grilled cod tacos—picky kid approved! Make some Grilled Mixed Pepper Salsa Verde (this page) to serve with chips.
MAKES 10 TO 12 TACOS (OR 5 TO 6 SERVINGS)
For the marinade
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (or the juice of 1 large lemon)
2 tablespoons chopped red onion
1½ teaspoons Sweet Rub (this page)
1½ teaspoons honey
1 clove garlic, minced
For the cod
1½ pounds fresh cod fillet (2 full fillets)
2 tablespoons Sweet Rub (this page)
For the slaw
1 cup shredded red cabbage
1 cup shredded savoy cabbage
¼ cup shredded red onion
¼ cup shredded carrot
1 tablespoon chopped jalapeño pepper
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ scant teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice
For the crema
¼ cup sour cream
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons hot sauce
1 teaspoon Sweet Rub (this page)
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice
10 to 12 corn tortillas
Chopped cilantro, for garnish
Lime wedges, for garnish
To make the marinade, in a 1-gallon ziplock bag, combine the oil, lemon juice, onion, Sweet Rub, honey, and garlic. Seal the bag and shake the ingredients to combine. Open the bag and add the cod fillets.
Seal the bag, taking care to remove as much air from the bag as possible. Marinate in the refrigerator for no more than 2 hours. If it marinates any longer, the fish may cook due to the acid from the lemon juice.
To make the slaw, in a large bowl, add the cabbages, onion, carrot, jalapeño, salt, pepper, vinegar, and lime juice. Mix together. This can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
To make the crema, in a medium bowl, combine the sour cream, mayonnaise, garlic, hot sauce, Sweet Rub, and lime juice and mix well. This can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Prepare the grill for direct cooking.
To prepare the cod, remove it from the marinade and discard the marinade. Pat the cod dry with a paper towel, then season each fillet with 1 tablespoon of the Sweet Rub, making sure to apply it to both sides.
When the charcoal is evenly lit, place the cod over direct heat for 4 to 5 minutes, then flip. (It is easiest to use a large spatula versus tongs as the cod will be delicate when flipping. It will likely come apart, which is fine.) Cook for another 4 to 5 minutes, or until the internal temperature is 135 degrees F. It will temp up to 140 degrees F.
Remove the cod from the grill and let sit for 5 minutes, then break up into chunks for the tacos.
To construct the tacos, warm the tortillas. On each tortilla, layer the cod, slaw, crema, and cilantro. Squeeze fresh lime juice from the wedges and enjoy.
WINE PAIRING: This preparation is one of our favorite weeknight summer meals, though it can certainly be enjoyed year-round. The fresh, bright flavors of the fish are fantastic with a fruity and crisp albariño. Rosé comes a close second, followed by Napa sauvignon blanc (which tends to have a nice balance of fruity and citrus flavors), and a fruity pinot gris/grigio. For the kiddos, nothing beats a cold glass of lemonade with these bright tacos.
Cedar plank salmon is amazing when coated with a sweet and spicy dry rub, cooked on the grill to give it that smoked influence, and finished with a maple syrup glaze. Sweet, spicy, and absolutely incredible.
When using a cedar plank, soak it in water, place the fish on top, and then lay the plank over direct or indirect heat. This allows for the plank’s flavor to infuse the food.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
For the dry rub
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon chili powder
1½ teaspoons cumin
1 teaspoon dried chipotle powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For the salmon
1½ pounds wild-caught salmon (we like coho)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons maple syrup
Special tool
1 cedar plank
Soak the cedar plank, fully submerged in water, for 30 minutes. Pat dry after removing from the water.
Prepare the grill for indirect cooking.
To make the dry rub, in a small bowl, combine the brown sugar, chili powder, cumin, chipotle powder, salt, and pepper.
To prepare the salmon, coat the salmon with the oil, then sprinkle about 2 tablespoons of the dry rub liberally over it (you may have some dry rub left over depending on the size of your salmon).
Place the salmon on the cedar plank, and put it on direct heat for up to 15 minutes, or until the salmon reaches an internal temperature of 120 degrees F.
Transfer the salmon and plank to indirect heat. Using a silicone brush, glaze the salmon with the maple syrup. Remove after 1 minute.
Let rest for 5 minutes, then slice and serve.
WINE PAIRING: Riesling provides a refreshing and sweet contrast to the spicy chipotle flavors. It will also balance the sweetness of the dry rub and maple syrup. For red wine, go for a medium-bodied fruity pinot noir from California.
Halibut from off the coast of Oregon is truly amazing. This whitefish absorbs so much flavor when cooked over a grill that you need to be careful not to overseason it. For example, halibut cooked on a cedar plank will suck in that cedar flavor, and you’ll lose the tender, delicate taste that naturally exists in the fish. So we find that cooking on a direct grill and using a mild seasoning to add texture preserve the authenticity of the halibut while still offering a slight taste from the grill. Inspired by Northwest hazelnuts, this dish is something we enjoy often over the summer.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
½ cup raw hazelnuts
¼ cup panko bread crumbs
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 pound halibut fillet or steaks, preferably thick
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
In a small cast-iron skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat, toast the hazelnuts for 4 minutes, or until you smell a roasted aroma. (Alternatively, you could toast the hazelnuts on the grill.) Be sure to consistently move the nuts around to avoid scorching.
Put the warm nuts in a food processor and pulse to a fine texture like grainy salt.
In a medium bowl, add the hazelnuts, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and thyme, and mix with a spoon. This can be made in advance and stored in an airtight container.
Prepare the grill for direct/indirect cooking with a target temperature in the grill of 400 degrees F.
Coat both sides of the halibut with the oil and season with the hazelnut mixture on the flesh side only.
Place the halibut on the grill skin side down over direct heat and cover. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the halibut is 135 degrees F. The cooking time will depend on the thickness of the halibut. Do not flip the halibut; the skin will act as a protective layer between the flame and the meat. You will see a slight browning of the hazelnut mixture. If you have grill flare-ups, move the halibut to the indirect side to finish.
WINE PAIRING: This grilled halibut is fresh and pure with slight nuttiness from the toasted hazelnut crust. We love this with an Italian arneis, Oregon pinot gris, Chablis (or other low- to no-oak chardonnay), or even blanc de blancs Champagne.
Adding a bit of smoke to a dish like chowder is a great way to enhance flavor. Here we smoke the fish to get a little kick. We tend to stick with mild woods when smoking foods, but this one is an exception. Mesquite will infuse the fish with a much-needed smokiness to help intensify the flavors of the chowder—made even more flavorful by that Smoked Chicken Stock (this page) you have in your freezer from your last roaster chicken, and you have an easy and delicious chowder. We use whitefish because it is mild in flavor and blends in with the color of the chowder.
MAKES 3 QUARTS (8 SERVINGS)
1 pound sea bass (cod or halibut are also great choices)
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons Savory Rub (this page)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ pound finely diced thick-cut bacon (4 slices)
1 cup finely diced celery
½ cup finely diced carrot
1½ cups rinsed and finely diced leeks, white and pale green parts only
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
3½ cups whole milk
2½ cups Smoked Chicken Stock (this page), or store-bought chicken stock
1 bay leaf
1½ pounds diced Yukon gold potatoes
¾ cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
Preheat the smoker to 225 degrees F using mesquite or hickorywood. Mesquite will lend a smokier taste to the soup versus a milder fruitwood.
Season the fish with the oil and Savory Rub, then place it on the smoker for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the internal temperature is 140 degrees F.
In a large stockpot over medium heat, melt the butter and cook the bacon for 6 minutes, or until it is browned.
Add the celery and carrots and sauté until tender, about 4 minutes.
Add the leeks and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually add the flour and cook 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
Whisk in the milk and Smoked Chicken Stock. Add the bay leaf and stir until the mixture comes to a simmer, about 8 minutes.
Add the potatoes, cover, and simmer over low heat, stirring frequently to make sure the milk doesn’t on scorch the bottom. A metal fish spatula works great to scrape the bottom and it gets into the corners of the pot.
After 30 minutes, check the potatoes for tenderness. Add the smoked fish, crème fraîche, lemon juice, and salt. Taste and add more salt if desired.
Remove from the heat and stir to incorporate.
Serve with croutons or oyster crackers, fresh cracked black pepper, and fresh watercress dressed with fresh lemon juice.
WINE PAIRING: Chowder is rich, and this one has sweet and smoky fish integrated into the flavors. This is made for a full-bodied chardonnay to match the weight of the dish. Viognier, Rhône-style white blends, or other full-bodied whites work wonders too.
Salmon is a Northwest specialty, where it has been smoked for millennia. We serve our salmon medium rare to keep the moisture of the fish while preserving its wild flavor.
We served this exact dish at a seventy-five-person wine dinner at Anne Amie Vineyards. Guests were blown away by the flavor, and we received endless requests for the recipe. The secret comes from simply buying the freshest wild-caught salmon and not overcooking the quality fish. The beurre blanc may sound fancy, but it’s quite simple to make and is the icing on the cake for this flavorful meal and beautiful presentation.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
For the salmon
1 (2½-pound) wild-caught salmon fillet (we like coho)
1½ teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1½ teaspoons coarse ground black pepper
For the beurre blanc
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 equal pieces
2 tablespoons minced shallots
¼ cup chardonnay or other full-bodied white wine
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Preheat the smoker to 225 degrees F using alderwood, applewood, or cherrywood.
To prepare the salmon, pat the salmon dry. Using tweezers, remove the pin bones. We like to make small slices along the fillet, not going through the skin, to precut serving sizes and get a little more smoke and rub into the salmon.
Coat the salmon with the oil and apply the salt and pepper.
Place the salmon on the smoker, skin side down, for 45 to 60 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the fish is between 125 and 130 degrees F. Thirty minutes into the cooking, make the beurre blanc.
To make the beurre blanc, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and stir until soft but not browned (no more than 5 minutes). Reduce the heat slightly if the shallots begin to brown. You don’t want them to become crispy or caramelized.
Add the wine and vinegar and bring to a slight simmer. Let the liquid reduce by half, cooking and stirring for 8 to 10 minutes. The heat will determine how long it will take to reduce; be patient, as you want a somewhat opaque liquid before you add the rest of the butter.
Once the liquid is reduced, turn the burner to the lowest setting. Add the butter 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking to emulsify the butter and the liquid. Don’t let it get too hot! Be prepared to move the pan off the heat for a few seconds at a time. You don’t want to actually melt the butter, but instead emulsify it into a rich, thick consistency.
When all the butter is added, season with the tarragon and salt. Whisk one more time and then remove from the heat. Serve warm over the salmon. Beurre blanc will stay emulsified for up to 1 hour. If necessary, place the saucepan over the lowest heat while whisking until warm (but not melted or it will separate).
For a family-style meal, pour the sauce over the entire fillet and serve. If serving plated, spoon 1 tablespoon of the sauce over each individual slice of salmon.
WINE PAIRING: The smoked salmon is tender and the rich herbed wine butter sauce creates a full-flavored experience. A full-bodied, oaked chardonnay is fantastic, matching the weight of the dish. But to liven things up and cut through the lush flavors, try a blanc de blancs sparkling wine, a crisp Chablis, or even a sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley of France. For red, stick to pinot noir.
This classic French sauce is a warm emulsified butter sauce. White wine is reduced with shallots and white wine vinegar, and butter is slowly added to create a creamy and rich sauce to top the salmon. The secret to beurre blanc is not letting the butter fully melt, or separate. The consistency should be similar to a hollandaise sauce.
