Sides should complement the main course. When considering sides, you don’t need to overdo it by making too many. Instead, pick and choose side dishes based upon the season (hot summer equals cold sides; cool weather equals warm, comforting sides), as well as the ability to use a side in multiple dishes, like our Smoked Pickled Onions (this page; they’re great on everything from burgers to tacos).
Some of the side dishes in this chapter don’t have a wine pairing, as they are meant to be complements to the star, the main entree. But the wine pairings do follow the same rules of contrast and complement. Make sure the wine you choose for the main dish also works for the side dish, or adjust the side accordingly.
Grilled corn is something our family could eat every day of the week. And serving the ears with smoked honey butter is the icing on the cake. This is such a delightful and delicious way to cook corn.
MAKES 6 EARS OF CORN
6 ears sweet corn, shucked
6 tablespoons Smoked Honey Butter (this page)
Finishing salt
Prepare the grill for direct/indirect cooking.
Place the corn on the grill over direct heat. Cover and cook, turning the corn every 4 minutes to prevent charring. Close the lid in between turns to keep the flame from getting too large. If the flame gets high, turn the corn more often, then move it to the indirect heat, cover, and finish.
Remove the corn from the grill when lightly charred and soft, 16 to 20 minutes total. Immediately place 1 tablespoon of the Smoked Honey Butter on each ear and spread evenly.
Sprinkle finishing salt to taste over the corn and enjoy.
In Portland, it seems we truffle everything. But seriously, adding truffle to a gratin is legit. We add a little cream and cook it on our grill. The result is a very indulgent side. Don’t be alarmed by all the dairy—just enjoy it.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes (about 4 medium potatoes)
1½ cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
¼ cup shredded white onion
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon truffle oil (plus more for drizzling)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
Unsalted butter, for the pan
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup grated Gruyère or Asiago cheese
Prepare the grill for direct/indirect cooking with a target temperature of 375 degrees F.
Using a mandolin, cut the potatoes into ⅛-inch-thick slices. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk the cream, milk, onion, garlic, oil, salt, and thyme. Add the potatoes. Using your hands, incorporate the liquid mixture and the potatoes.
Butter the bottom and sides of a large cast-iron pan. Fan out the potatoes in the pan in layers, like shingles on a roof. After the first layer of potatoes, add ¼ cup of the Parmesan. Continue in this manner for three more layers, then top with the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan and the Gruyère.
Carefully pour the liquid mixture into the pan and cover.
Place the pan on the indirect side of the grill (to prevent the bottom layer from scorching), cover the grill, and cook for 60 minutes.
Remove the cover of the gratin and cook for another 10 minutes, or until the cheese is browning and the potatoes are soft.
Remove from the grill and let rest for 10 minutes to allow the pan to cool. Drizzle with more truffle oil and serve.
This is a rich and creamy mac and cheese with a mix of cheeses plus a bit of heat. The smoked cheese and poblano peppers give the dish sweet and earthy flavors. You can cook the dish directly on the grill, giving it even more incredible flavor. This is rich, ooey, gooey, comfort food at its finest!
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
For the smoked poblano peppers
4 poblano peppers, cut in half and seeds removed
For the mac and cheese
2 cups uncooked pasta (macaroni, elbow, or other small pasta with a hollow shape works well)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
1 cup shredded sharp cheddar
1 cup shredded smoked cheddar
½ cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ cup panko bread crumbs
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
To make the smoked peppers, preheat the smoker to 250 degrees F using cherrywood.
Place the peppers on the smoker for 1 hour, or until soft and tender. Remove them from the smoker, and dice them. (This can be done in advance.)
To make the mac and cheese, prepare the grill for direct/indirect cooking.
In a large stockpot, cook the pasta for a few minutes less than the package instructions recommend (you want the pasta to be a little undercooked). Drain, and set aside.
In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the flour, and stir until smooth. Continue cooking and stirring for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the mixture starts to turn a golden color. Slowly add the milk, 1 cup at a time, and whisk to combine. Continue whisking until the sauce starts to thicken, approximately 4 to 5 minutes.
Remove the saucepan from heat and add the cheeses, crème fraîche, Dijon, ½ teaspoon of the salt, nutmeg, and the smoked poblano peppers. Mix until creamy.
Mix in the pasta, then transfer to a 9-inch round cast-iron skillet. Top with the bread crumbs, the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt, and smoked paprika.
Place the skillet on the grill over indirect heat, and cook for 20 minutes, or until the cheeses are melted and starting to brown. (Alternatively, you can cook this in the oven set to 350 degrees F). Remove and serve.
NOTE: When grilling with high heat, even if indirect, avoid using glass dishes. They tend to break due to the heat. Cast iron is preferred because stainless steel will discolor from the heat and smoke.
On a trip to northeast Italy’s Veneto region a few years ago, Mary noticed that many of the restaurants offered not just risotto on the menu but pumpkin risotto. It was late fall and they were all taking advantage of this late-harvest squash in the greatest way possible. The pumpkin added such creaminess and flavor to this traditional arborio rice dish that we had to try it with smoked pumpkin back at home. Our version adds a lovely sweetness and just a kiss of smoke flavor. Feel free to use Smoked Chicken Stock (this page) for even more smoky goodness.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
For the smoked pumpkin and bacon
1 small yellow or sugar pumpkin (3 to 4 pounds), quartered and seeds removed
6 slices thick-cut bacon
For the fried sage
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
6 to 8 leaves fresh sage
Kosher salt
For the risotto
5 to 6 cups chicken stock (Smoked Chicken Stock on this page, or store-bought)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion, chopped
1 large clove garlic, minced
6 sprigs fresh thyme
1½ cups uncooked arborio rice
¾ cup dry white wine
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
Pinch of ground nutmeg
¾ cup shredded Parmesan cheese
To make the smoked pumpkin and bacon, preheat the smoker to 225 degrees F.
Place the pumpkin quarters on the smoker, skin side down. Place the bacon on the smoker, and smoke both for 1 hour. Remove the bacon if it has fully cooked and looks crispy. Crumble the bacon and set it aside.
Increase the temperature to 300 degrees F, and continue cooking the pumpkin for 30 to 60 minutes, or until it is fork-tender. Remove from the smoker. When the pumpkin is cool enough to handle, spoon out the flesh and puree it in a food processor. (Depending on the size of the pumpkin, this should yield 3 to 4 cups of puree. Reserve 1½ cups for the risotto.)
To make the fried sage, in a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the sage leaves and fry for 2 to 3 minutes, or until crispy. Place the leaves on a paper towel to remove excess butter. Sprinkle with a touch of salt, or to taste.
To make the risotto, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the chicken stock and then bring down to a light simmer.
In a large, heavy saucepan, melt the butter and then add the onion. Cook for 5 minutes, or until tender. Add the garlic and thyme and cook for 1 minute. Add the rice and stir just to coat with the onion mixture and slightly toast the rice. Add the wine and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed the liquid.
Next, add 1 ladle of the simmering broth and ¼ cup of the pumpkin puree. Slowly stir until it has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. Continue adding 1 ladle of the broth and ¼ cup of the puree at a time, stirring constantly, until all the rice has been cooked and is tender. This should take 25 to 30 minutes total. The risotto should be creamy and the rice a bit al dente. Add the salt and pepper (or more to taste) and the nutmeg (more or less depending on how you like the flavor). Turn off the heat. Stir in the Parmesan. Top with the fried sage and bacon crumbles and serve immediately.
Variation
Alternatively, you can peel and cube the pumpkin, toss on a baking sheet, and place in the smoker. This will speed up the roasting process and allow more smoke infusion into the pumpkin.
To make a vegetarian-friendly version, substitute vegetable stock for the chicken stock and eliminate the bacon.
We’ve never been fans of rich, mayo-based potato salads. In this salad, we love the combination of Dijon and the zing of apple cider vinegar. That said, this simple side is still meant to have focused flavors: the light zing and texture of the whole grain mustard, the crunch from the green onions, and the sour-sweet bite of the apple cider vinegar. This is a great salad to make the day before a big cook so you can just pull it from the refrigerator and serve. It also works better for potlucks, where the food sits out on a blazing-hot day.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1½ pounds Yukon gold potatoes, cleaned and dried
2 tablespoons plus ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon whole grain Dijon mustard
¼ teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
½ cup chopped green onions
Slice the potatoes into 1-inch bite-size portions. In a large pot, add the potatoes, enough water to cover, and 2 tablespoons of the salt and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 12 minutes, or until the potatoes are fork-tender but not mushy. Pour them into a colander and set aside.
In a large bowl, add the vinegar, oil, mustard, the remaining ¼ teaspoon of salt, and pepper. Whisk to combine. Add the potatoes and green onions. Stir the potatoes a few times to coat with the dressing.
As the potatoes cool, they will draw in the extra liquid. Serve the salad warm or cold. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
