CHAPTER SEVEN
Choosing Your Henhouse
With the huge increase in poultry-keeping, there has been an equally massive increase in the poultry paraphernalia that can be purchased, and nowhere is this more obvious than in the range of poultry housing. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of designs to pick from, with each one claiming to be the ideal accommodation solution. However, it cannot be stressed enough just how important the purchase of the henhouse is—not only is it likely to be the largest investment of your new venture, but it will be critical in ensuring that your chicken-keeping experience is positive and productive for both you and the flock.
Research and planning are key words in the process of getting started with chickens, and both are essential when it comes to selecting the type of coop you need. Visit as many stores as you can to get a feel for the products. If you have a large poultry show in your area, it may have trade stands where you can compare various manufacturers’ offerings. If you have a local poultry club, contact the secretary to see if any members would let you visit to take a look at the types of housing they are using. Most breeders will be perfectly happy to share their experiences and help you avoid the pitfalls, so any legwork you can put in prior to parting with your cash will contribute significantly toward making the right decision.
Visit people who already have chickens, as first-hand experience will help when making the decision.
Chickens require function over form, and unless you intend to open to the public, then you should also favor practicality over prettiness. A secure, dry, and draft-free area is the primary objective when a bird is looking for a place to roost, and this is the absolute minimum that a coop should offer. Beware of advertisements that offer attractive-looking houses at attractive prices photographed in attractive yards with equally attractive families standing alongside baskets of eggs. This is not reality and quite frequently the housing being sold in this manner is mass produced and not fit for purpose. Such houses will probably be constructed of fast-grown timber whose wide grain will swell in wet or damp conditions, resulting in jammed doors and pop-holes. Come the heat of summer, the timber dries, shrinks, and can even crack, leaving perfect breeding places for parasites such as the red mite (see here). Think instead in a no-frills, utilitarian manner and look beyond the bells and tassels to the functionality of the coop.
You can, of course, create your own chicken coop, either by adapting a shed or outbuilding or by starting from scratch using one of the many plans that can found in books and on the Internet. The first option can be very cost-effective, especially if you have a storage shed that is not being used. With a little bit of DIY skill, it is quite simple to convert a shed into a suitable abode for your flock, and of course it has the added advantage of usually being large enough for you to walk into and stand up in.
With a little more DIY skill, it is possible to build yourself a henhouse from scratch. This can be particularly useful if you need to tailor one to fit a precise space—rather than having to compromise by installing a ready-made house, you are free to create one exactly to your specifications.
Whether you intend to research and buy a ready-built house, opt to convert a shed or other building, or dive in and develop your own bespoke property, the one thing you must do is understand the basic essentials of a poultry coop. They are not complicated structures, but there are certain “must-have” and “should-have” requirements that apply to almost any chicken coop. Recognizing these features and being able to spot when they are absent will help you evaluate the chicken housing on the market in your area or ensure that when you are modifying or building your own coop that you are always looking at things from a chicken’s perspective.
Warning
Buying secondhand coops can be a risk. If your budget is such that you can afford only a secondhand henhouse, be sure to give it a thorough clean before putting any stock in it. Disease and parasites can sit in the dander and dust for many months, representing a very real risk to your flock.
CONSTRUCTION
It cannot be stressed enough that good-quality, solid construction of the chicken coop is absolutely essential. Cheap housing is available, but it’s really not cost effective in the long run. It invariably doesn’t last much longer than a couple of seasons and will fail at some point, usually when it’s least convenient, either due to the weather or general wear and tear. If it doesn’t look like it could survive a small child standing on it or you leaning against it, then it probably won’t survive a strong gust of wind or the weight of a winter snowfall.
VENTILATION
It is absolutely essential that there is adequate ventilation in a henhouse in order to reduce the risk of health problems within the flock. Roosting birds produce a large amount of heat, and they also produce a significant amount of feces. Without suitable ventilation, these two elements can result in a build-up of ammonia and, potentially, water vapor. The water vapor can then condense and either run down the walls to the ammonia-producing mass on the floor or drip onto the chickens in the coop, damaging the condition of their feathers and potentially chilling them, which could prove fatal during the winter months.
It is important to understand the difference between drafts and ventilation. The latter allows fresh air to be drawn into the building as the warmer air leaves. This is usually facilitated by having air holes at different heights on adjacent walls or a gap at floor level with a vent in the apex of the roof.
A single set of holes on one wall will not facilitate air flow, nor will holes on opposite walls at precisely the same height. These would simply create a draft, something that should be avoided in chicken coops because not only will it stress the birds, making them restless and potentially less productive, but it can also trigger respiratory problems.
PERCHES
While not every breed of chicken, or in fact every individual chicken, makes use of perch bars, most birds will more often than not seek out somewhere to settle when they go to roost. For this reason, the inclusion of properly positioned perch bars certainly makes for an easier life for both the chickens and their keeper.
Chickens, and in particular the egg-laying breeds, will invariably seek out the highest accessible point in a coop each evening when they go to roost. If the house has no perches, then ideally the nestboxes should be at floor level. If the nestbox is higher than floor level, then the chickens will most likely use it as their roost spot. By the same measure, if perch bars are poorly positioned so that they are lower than the nestboxes, the chickens will ignore them and choose instead to roost in the nestboxes.
Tip
Ventilation is essential throughout the year. Don’t be tempted to seal the coop up, even in the coldest of weather, as this will serve no benefit to the birds inside.
Perches for large or heavy breeds of chicken ideally should not be higher than 12 inches (30 cm) above the floor level of the coop. This is because these chickens run the risk of a foot or leg injury when they jump down, which can become infected and in turn develop into a painful and potentially fatal condition known as bumblefoot (see here).
This causes a problem because chickens produce a significant amount of feces while roosting, so consequently they will foul the area in which they lay, resulting in dirty and contaminated eggs. If, on the other hand, the perch bars are higher than the nestboxes, the chickens will use them as intended, leaving the nestboxes unsoiled.
A good perch will be 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) thick for large fowl and 1–2 inches (3–5 cm) thick for bantams. This will allow a bird’s feet to settle almost flat on the surface with a slight overhang of the toes to provide extra grip. It will also allow for a reasonable amount of its keel to sit flat on the surface. The perch bar should be made from rough-cut square timber with the corners rounded off to a smoother curve. This will enable the chicken to get a suitable grip on the perch. Any perch bars made from sanded dowel or pipes made of plastic or metal are too smooth and will potentially be uncomfortable for the perching chicken, as the birds will not be able to grip correctly. A chicken that is not comfortable, relaxed, or secure when roosting can become stressed, and a stressed chicken has reduced productivity, so it is important to get something as apparently simple as a perch bar correct.
On average, each bird will need 8 inches (20 cm) of perch space (obviously less for bantam breeds and more for heavy breeds) and, if more than one perch is installed, the perch bars need to be at least 18 inches (45 cm) apart to avoid overcrowding, enable sufficient air flow, and provide adequate space between each row of chickens.
NESTBOXES
As a rule of thumb, a henhouse should contain at least one nestbox for every three hens, although it’s highly likely that you will find that your chickens favor one or two nestboxes, and that’s where you will find all the eggs each day. This, however, is more of a behavioral trait in some chickens as opposed to them not requiring the additional laying space.
The nestboxes ideally should be accessible from a door separate to the main access doors. Not only does this make egg collecting quicker and more simple, but it also means you can access the nestboxes without disturbing any chickens that are in the coop at that point. It also reduces the likelihood of you trailing dirt into the house, thereby improving biosecurity.
The size of the nestboxes should be appropriate for the size of birds being kept, as laying chickens like to feel safe and sheltered. Obviously the larger breeds will need a larger nestbox to avoid unnecessary damage to feathering, as hens frequently perform nesting behaviors before settling to lay an egg.
If the henhouse you are thinking of buying claims to accommodate 10 birds yet has only one nestbox, be wary—it is distinctly possible that the designer and manufacturer have missed other essential aspects, too. The same caution should be exercised when the house builder produces accommodations suitable for three birds and then adds three nestboxes. Overengineering of this nature may appeal initially, but it is possible that other basic errors will be present in the design of the house.
As mentioned in the foregoing section on perches, the nestboxes should be positioned at a lower height than the perches. If egg productivity is to be maximized and egg damage minimized, it’s also important that the location of the boxes within the house is correct for the hen. Ideally, hens like dark nesting places, so ensuring the nestboxes are in the darkest recess of the coop will increase the likelihood of a relaxed, settled laying flock. If the nestboxes are directly opposite a window or opening, the hens could potentially become agitated. They may then lay while standing or stooped in the nestbox, resulting in the eggs breaking. Broken eggs not only equate to lost productivity, but they could make a mess of other eggs in the nestbox. Worse still, they may encourage “egg-eating” within the flock, a behavioral habit that is very difficult to break once established at an individual or flock level (see here).
POP-HOLES
The pop-hole on a chicken coop should be a simple mechanism and one that is easy to operate. Overengineered designs result in chains that jam, doors that swell and become wedged shut or open, and runners that fill with dirt and shavings, restricting the door’s capacity to be securely closed. It is also important that the pop-hole can be secured shut with a bolt, or at least be of a rebated design such that the door’s leading edge slots in between two other pieces of wood (or plastic). This will help prevent the door from being lifted by the paws or noses of any passing predators.
To reduce the likelihood of nestboxes being roosted in overnight, they should be lower than perches.
Possibly one of the biggest oversights in coop design is access—not for the birds, but for you, the keeper. You will require access to the nestboxes in the house at least once a day to check for eggs, but, more importantly, you need access to the whole house in order to clean it out. You will need to be able to reach every corner of the house in order to ensure the cleaning is thorough and that any areas that could harbor mites or lice are properly attended to. Removable roof sections and wall or door panels are ideal in this respect and will enable you to tackle the cleaning job with both hands.
If the coop comes with an attached run, it is also essential that this is accessible so that you can reach every corner. Simply lifting the entire run off the ground will result in the chickens making a break for the nearest flowerbed and you wasting many hours trying to coax them back into the run. By the same measure, a run with insufficient access will equally result in wasted time as you try to salvage eggs laid outdoors that are just out of your reach or an empty waterer that’s been kicked into a corner. Once again, if the house you are looking at has these design flaws, then it is distinctly possible that there is some other basic error elsewhere in the design.
SPACE
The final essential to consider is the capacity of the coop. Some housing may have the correct dimensions and length of perch within the coop, and the correct number of nestboxes for the volume of birds it claims it can accommodate, but always check the outdoor space if it comes with an attached run. In the US, there are no national regulations for poultry-keeping setups, but again, you should ensure that your chickens are kept in the best conditions possible. The European Union stocking density guideline for free-range chickens is one bird per 2 m x 2 m area (6.5 feet x 6.5 feet), barn-reared birds require 0.33 m x 0.33 m (1 foot by 1 foot) each, and enriched cage systems measure slightly over 0.27 m x 0.27 m (10.5 inches x 10.5 inches). If you live within this region, space restrictions in your yard may therefore mean that your birds will not be free-range. However, if your objective is to provide the best welfare for the chickens that are producing your household’s eggs, then ensure that the henhouse and run allow sufficient room for each bird living there.
The chicken’s nest
Bird nests come in a wide variety of forms: Some are built on platforms, others are hanging structures, some are cup-shaped and hidden away in the shrub, and others are in burrows or tunnels. Chickens create what are known as scrape nests. This type of nest is quite typical of ground-nesting birds and is perhaps the most minimalist of avian architecture. It serves one function—the incubation of the eggs—and because it is exposed to predatory threat, location takes over from design. That said, the nest is still a construction effort where the hen will find the right spot, lower herself into position, and shuffle her body and feet until a depression is made. She will then undertake a bit of sideways throwing and sideways pulling, during which she casts aside any unsuitable sharp material (stones or large sticks, for example) and pulls more desirable soft materials (feathers and leaves) towards and into the nest.
As with many significant purchases, it’s often nice to feel you’ve invested in something beyond the basic model and added some worthwhile optional extras. It is important, however, to remember that embellishments to a henhouse can often mean more surfaces to clean or, worse still, more areas in which mites can hide. That said, there are a few optional extras that, if included in the design, will enhance the coop and make things easier for you, the keeper.
REMOVABLE PERCHES
These can make cleaning much easier as they allow better access to the house, and they can also be replaced with fresh new perches periodically. Bear in mind that a chicken can spend a minimum of 10 hours out of 24 sitting on the perch bars, so it’s important that they are maintained. In fact, having any removable components within the coop can be a real boon as they are much easier to clean and disinfect, and even simpler to replace.
RAISED HOUSING
A henhouse that is raised (or that can be raised) 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) off the ground is an optional extra worth considering. A raised coop has a number of advantages: first, the house is higher so you don’t need to stoop as much to clean it out; second, it will deter vermin from taking up residence under the house; and, finally, the area of ground under the house provides a perfect shelter for the chickens from the rain and wind and will soon become a favorite dust-bathing spot.
INDOOR FEEDERS
Always aim to buy a coop that not only has enough space for the number of chickens you wish to keep but also to accommodate a feeder within it. Better still, choose a design with a feeder built into the wall that can be accessed and filled from the outside. Being able to keep feeders indoors not only stops the feed from becoming spoiled by the weather but also deters vermin and wild birds from helping themselves to the feed.
WOOD
Wooden housing offers greater flexibility and modification, being able not only to meet the specific needs of certain breeds but also to blend in with the local environment. Wood is a naturally breathable product, and a well-designed wooden house will not suffer from condensation. Wooden henhouses are also easier to repair should the need arise. On the downside, wooden coops take longer to clean out and dry than plastic houses, and they require more annual maintenance.
While chicken housing is now constructed from a variety of materials, mass-produced coops still tend to use wood or plastic. If you are lucky enough to have outbuildings or intend to build a more substantial place of residence for your flock, then bricks and mortar are another option. However, the same design essentials still apply, and your needs and those of your chickens must be incorporated.
Most manufacturers of wooden housing tend to build a frame and then clad it with tongue-and-groove planks. As the name suggests, these are planks of wood that slot together, one side having a “tongue” that slots into the “groove” of the connecting piece to create a join. It’s frequently listed as “T&G” and is very versatile to work with, enabling a wide variety of design and sizing options. By its very nature, however, T&G construction has gaps, which can be used as hiding places by mites and lice, so always make sure tight-fitting, good-quality T&G is used and avoid thin wood or flimsy construction.
Tip
If you are intending to construct your own chicken coop from marine plywood, clad the house framework from the inside as opposed to the outside. This reduces the gaps in the wood even further and means you can seal the joints, thereby eliminating any potential hideaways for lice and mites.
Tip
Catches, clasps, hinges, and any other metalwork used in coop construction should be solid and ideally made from stainless steel. There is little point in having a top-quality henhouse with substandard metalwork that can rust or snap off.
The other wood option, and probably the best, is marine plywood. This comes in sheets and provides an extremely practical option to the poultry-keeper as it is strong, stable, and durable, and also gap-free. On the downside, it’s not as attractive as T&G, and, as a result, its use within the mass-produced market is limited. For the home handyman, however, it is the better option, particularly if you are looking for function over form.
PLASTIC
Plastic sheeting is similar in many respects to plywood, but plastic housing in general has a limited number of design options. Either the sections need to slot together as opposed to being screwed or bolted into place or the coop is made in a defined injection mold. Add to this the fact that plastic is a relatively new coop construction material, and the result is that the size options on the market tend to be relatively limited.
Plastic house construction comes into its own versus wood when cleaning and performing annual maintenance, the latter is practically nonexistent when compared with a wooden house, as no weather treatment is needed. Cleaning a plastic house is also much easier than cleaning a wooden house; many of the designs can be cleaned out, pressure-washed, and dried in less than 30 minutes. This advantage should not be underestimated. In the height of summer, your flock may not require the house for the whole day, so cleaning and drying times won’t be relevant, but on bad weather days and in winter you won’t want the house out of action for too long or your birds having to roost in a soggy coop.
Many of the mainstream manufacturers of plastic henhouses are now endeavoring to use recycled plastics that are precision-cut, with any waste material returned to the recycling process. They literally don’t cost the earth.
ROOFING MATERIALS
The material used on the coop roof is another important consideration. Many houses on the market use roofing felt, an old-fashioned weatherproofing solution for wooden roofing. However, while felt is perfectly suitable for this purpose when it comes to storage sheds or other outbuildings, it should be avoided when it comes to poultry housing for two main reasons. First, it’s not as durable as would first seem the case. High winds can pick at a loose corner or small tear, resulting in the whole sheet being blown away. In addition, very hot weather can cause roofing felt to melt, and over time it can also become brittle and hard, eventually cracking and causing leaks to appear. The second issue is that roofing felt frequently provides the perfect home for red mites, which will happily multiply in a place that is all but impossible to treat.
Tip
Make repairs to your coop as soon as you notice a problem. In the event that a hinge breaks, a latch snaps, a part the roof becomes detached, or any other relatively minor breakage occurs, be sure to fix it as soon as is practically possible. Leaving it can have disastrous consequences that compromise the safety or welfare of your flock—it’s far better to do today what you were going to put off until tomorrow.
If you mix and match the materials you use in constructing your henhouse, you can get the best out of all the options.
The frequently used alternative is corrugated roofing material, which comes in panels and tiles. These are very tough but lightweight products that can be nailed either onto a solid roof or directly to roof battens. They don’t rot, and they are flexible, easy to work with, and they are weather resistant.
If you are not intending to allow your birds to roam free-range, then you need to provide them with a designated outdoor area or run. Even when using a free-range system, it is handy to have a compound where you can temporarily corral the birds, such as when you need to check the flock over. Obviously, different breeds potentially have specific needs, but there are some general requirements that should be built into the enclosure.
First off, be realistic about the amount of space you have. Chickens thrive on space; they are by nature foraging creatures and tirelessly scratch around for insects. If the space provided is limited or overpopulated, then it will soon be denuded of vegetation, insects, and tasty morsels. The ground will become littered with droppings that, come a heavy downpour of rain, will transform into a muddy mess, providing an ideal environment for disease. It can also cause behavioral problems as the chickens become bored and begin to peck at each other. This pecking evolves to picking and pulling of feathers and exposed flesh and can lead to full-blown cannibalism in extreme cases.
As the keeper, think about the location of the run from your own perspective. It might seem like a good idea to put the chickens well away from the house or main part of the yard when it’s summertime, but what about in the depths of winter, when you have to trudge through snow, rain, and hail to reach them? The remote location might not be quite so appealing in those circumstances. Pick a location that is out of the prevailing wind and that gets some sunshine but equally has some shelter. As descendants of jungle fowl, chickens are happiest with some overhead cover, so if possible locate the run under established shrubs or small trees that will provide some canopy cover for them. Obviously, avoid damp areas—aside from the fact that chickens are not particularly keen on muddy conditions, a dry location will reduce the amount of mud and moisture being taken into the coop. And if space permits, divide the area into two or three smaller runs so that you can rotate the space occupied by the chickens, thereby giving each of the other areas a chance to recover.
FENCING
When considering the options for fencing, it’s important to understand its purpose fully before embarking on any landscaping or purchases. Fencing needs to be functional and practical, but by the same measure you may prefer it to be complementary to the other landscaping within the yard. For example, if you have a more formal, orderly design to your yard, then running a mass of stock fencing across it isn’t going to look the part. The other element to consider is whether the fencing will be a permanent feature, semipermanent, or temporary, as this will also influence the materials you use.
Even with almost limitless space, chickens will invariably walk the boundary of a run.
Brick or stone walls, if built high enough, work very well as a permanent boundary option, and with the variety of construction materials available, it is possible to create a structure that is in keeping with your property. Another permanent option is stock fencing. This comes in a variety of gauges or sizes, some with a tighter mesh closer to the ground to deter rabbits, a fringe benefit of which is that it also prevents large fowl chickens and many of the bantam breeds from getting through. Be aware, though, that topping stock fencing with a rail may help secure it, but it also means that you have offered a perch to any chicken that is capable of getting off the ground.
In terms of semipermanent options, movable panels made of woven hazel or willow can work very well. These provide an attractive way of partitioning an area of yard and are available in a number of sizes (height and length). The down stakes on the panel can usually be driven into the earth, and then cable ties or heavy-duty twine can be used to tie the structures together to give them a bit more strength. Due to their lattice-like construction, these wooden panels also offer a good level of resistance against strong winds and act as a windbreak to protect your flock. Should you want to relocate the fence, simply untie the panels and move them to their new position. On the downside, they can be quite expensive to purchase, and while they will last a number of seasons, they do not last indefinitely.
Another fencing option comprises wooden frames covered with chicken wire. These are certainly functional and a good way to separate birds temporarily or to divide paddocks into smaller breeding pens. They are not as attractive as woven wood panels, but they do last longer.
Temporary options include plastic windbreaks and electric fencing. The latter doesn’t need to be electrified if it’s being used as chicken-yard fencing as opposed to antipredator fencing, a factor that can keep the investment costs down. Both fence types are very handy as they can be rolled up for storing.
The type of fencing you choose depends on how secure and/or how permanent or flexible you need it to be. In most cases a 4-foot-high (1.2 m) fence will serve as a suitable barrier to most breeds of chicken, and if used in conjunction with wing-clipping for the more flighty breeds (see here), it should keep the birds contained. That said, make sure you do your research, because next to the chicken coop, fencing can be quite an investment in terms of money and effort.
In addition to housing and fencing, you will need to buy some equipment before you get your birds to aid you in managing your new flock. There are a lot of items of poultry paraphernalia on the market, all of which aim to make the job of keeping chickens easier, but before you commit too much of your budget to optional extras, make sure you have the following essentials.
WATERERS
Plastic waterers are cheap and easy to clean, and they don’t corrode if you choose to add apple cider vinegar to the water (see here). Metal waterers are more durable, but they can be expensive. Always select a design that is stable so that the chickens can’t knock it over easily (and consequently find themselves without water) and preferably raised off the ground. Chickens naturally scratch, so a low-level waterer can easily have dirt and feces kicked into it. The size of the waterer will depend upon the size of the flock and also the time of year, as chickens vary the quantity they drink according to the season. Aim to provide at least 2 pints (1 liter) of water per bird per day and at least one waterer for every five birds to reduce competition.
FEEDERS
There are many different designs and materials available on the market, all with advantages and disadvantages. The best feeders are those that keep the feed in an area where the chickens are unable to scratch it out onto the ground, either by having a mesh or grid over the feed, by raising the feeder so that it is too high for the chickens’ feet to reach, or by using a treadle feeder. The latter keeps the feed covered until the chicken steps on a plate to enable access to the feed, and has the added advantage of keeping out wild birds and vermin. One other important consideration is to make sure the feeder is large enough to carry sufficient feed for your entire flock for the day, or preferably longer.
COMPOST HEAP
Chickens produce a large amount of manure, which, when combined with the litter on the floor and in the nestbox of the henhouse, can accumulate into quantities beyond that which your household refuse bin can cope with—not that it should be simply thrown away. Chicken manure is an excellent accelerator for the compost heap, and when combined with the litter and other compostables, it can create an excellent booster for your garden soil.
Treadle feeders are a good choice as they can reduce feed waste and loss to wild birds or vermin.
CLEANING EQUIPMENT
For reasons of hygiene, buy cleaning tools used solely for chicken-keeping. Depending on the size of your flock or the size of the coop you are using, the equipment you need can be as simple as a dustpan and brush, a wallpaper scraper, and some mucking-out tools.
EGG BOXES
It’s perfectly acceptable to use old egg boxes for storing the eggs you are keeping for your kitchen, but if you intend to sell eggs at the gate or at a market, you will need new boxes.
GRIT
Chickens need a supply of grit to help them digest their food (see here). Even if they are free-ranging and finding their own, it is important to provide them with a tray of grit.
