Rajasthan
Rajasthan Highlights
Eastern Rajasthan
Jaipur
Walking Tour: Pink City
Around Jaipur
Bharatpur & Keoladeo National Park
Alwar
Sariska Tiger Reserve & National Park
Ajmer
Pushkar
Ranthambhore National Park
Udaipur & Southern Rajasthan
Bundi
Kota
Chittorgarh (Chittor)
Udaipur
Around Udaipur
Northern Rajasthan (Shekhawati)
Mt Abu
Nawalgarh
Jhunjhunu
Fatehpur
Mandawa
Jaisalmer, Jodhpur & Western Rajasthan
Jodhpur
Around Jodhpur
Jaisalmer
Around Jaisalmer
Bikaner
Around Bikaner
Rajasthan
Why Go?
It is said there is more history in Rajasthan than in the rest of India put together. Welcome to the Land of the Kings – a realm of maharajas, majestic forts and lavish palaces. India is littered with splendid architecture, but nowhere will you find fortresses quite as magnificent as those in Rajasthan, rising up imperiously from the landscape like fairy-tale mirages or adventure movie sets.
As enchanting as they are, though, there is more to this most royal of regions than its architectural wonders. This is also a land of sand dunes and jungle, of camel trains and wild tigers, of glittering jewels, vivid colours and vibrant culture. There are enough colourful festivals here to fill a calendar, while the shopping and cuisine are nothing short of spectacular. In truth, Rajasthan just about has it all – it is the must-see state of India, brimming with startling, thought-provoking and, ultimately, unforgettable attractions.
When to Go
ADec–Feb Pleasant day time temperatures, butcan get cold at night. Peak tourists, peak prices.
ASep–Nov Feb & Mar Warm nightssuit many visitors fleeing colderclimes.
AApr–Aug April and June are hot awaiting the monsoon, which brings the rain in July and August.
Best Heritage Hotels
Rajasthan Highlights
1 Jaisalmer Wandering the bustling alleys of the honey-coloured fort, then riding a camel among desert dunes.
2 Pushkar Making a lakeside pilgrimage to Rajasthan's holiest town.
3 Ranthambhore National Park Searching for tigers in the ravines and forests.
4 Mehrangarh Taking in the views of the Blue City from the imposing ramparts of Jodhpur's mighty fortress.
5 Udaipur Kicking back in Rajasthan's romantic idyll with palaces and a picturesque lake.
6 Pink City Wandering the colourful bazaars of Jaipur and the marvellous Amber Fort.
7 Bundi Resting up in this town with its low-key backpacker vibe, fairy-tale palace and a solemn fort.
8 Shekhawati Admiring the whimsical frescos adorning the crumbling havelis.
History
Rajasthan is the ancestral home of the Rajputs, warrior clans who claim to originate from the sun, moon and fire, and who have controlled this part of India for more than 1000 years. While they forged marriages of convenience and temporary alliances, pride and independence were always paramount, and this lack of unity led to the Rajputs becoming vassals of the Mughal empire.
Mughal rule of Rajasthan was marked by rebellion, uprisings and tragedy, as whole cities committed jauhar (ritual mass suicide) rather than submit to the Mughals. Nevertheless, As the Mughal empire declined, the Rajputs clawed back their independence and signed treaties with the British allowing individual Rajput kingdoms to operate as independent princely states under the umbrella of British rule.
At Independence, Rajasthan's many maharajas were allowed to keep their titles and property holdings and were paid an annual stipend commensurate with their status to secure their participation in the union. However, this favourable arrangement lapsed in the 1970s and Rajasthan submitted fully to central control.
Eastern Rajasthan
Jaipur
%0141 / Pop 3.05 million
Enthralling, historical Jaipur, Rajasthan’s capital, is the gateway to India’s most flamboyant state.
The city’s colourful, chaotic streets ebb and flow with a heady brew of old and new. Careering buses dodge dawdling camels, leisurely cycle-rickshaws frustrate swarms of motorbikes, and everywhere buzzing autorickshaws watch for easy prey. In the midst of this mayhem, the splendours of Jaipur’s majestic past are islands of relative calm evoking a different pace and another world.
At the city’s heart, the City Palace continues to house the former royal family; the Jantar Mantar, the royal observatory, maintains a heavenly aspect; and the honeycomb Hawa Mahal gazes on the bazaar below. And just out of sight, in the arid hill country surrounding the city, is the fairy-tale grandeur of Amber Fort, Jaipur’s star attraction.
History
Jaipur is named after its founder, the great warrior-astronomer Jai Singh II (1688–1743), who came to power at age 11 after the death of his father, Maharaja Bishan Singh. Jai Singh could trace his lineage back to the Rajput clan of Kachhwahas, who consolidated their power in the 12th century. Their capital was at Amber (pronounced 'amer'), about 11km northeast of present-day Jaipur, where they built the impressive Amber Fort.
The kingdom grew wealthier and wealthier, and this, plus the need to accommodate the burgeoning population and a paucity of water at the old capital at Amber, prompted the maharaja in 1727 to commence work on a new city – Jaipur.
Northern India’s first planned city, it was a collaborative effort using Singh's vision and the impressive expertise of his chief architect, Vidyadhar Bhattacharya. Jai Singh’s grounding in the sciences is reflected in the precise symmetry of the new city.
In 1876 Maharaja Ram Singh had the entire Old City painted pink (traditionally the colour of hospitality) to welcome the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII). Today all residents of the Old City are compelled by law to preserve the pink facade.
1Sights
Old City (Pink City)
The Old City (often referred to as the Pink City) is both a marvel of 18th-century town planning, and a place you could spend days exploring – it’s the beating heart of Jaipur.
Avenues divide the Pink City into neat rectangles, each specialising in certain crafts, as ordained in the Shilpa Shastra (ancient Hindu texts). The main bazaars in the Old City include Johari Bazaar, Tripolia Bazaar, Bapu Bazaar and Chandpol Bazaar.
The whole is partially encircled by a crenellated wall punctuated at intervals by grand gateways. The major gates are Chandpol (pol means ‘gate’), Ajmer Gate and Sanganeri Gate.
oCity PalacePALACE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4088888; www.royaljaipur.in; Indian/foreigner incl camera ₹130/500, guide from ₹300, audio guide free, Royal Grandeur tour Indian/foreigner ₹2000/2500; h9.30am-5pm)
A complex of courtyards, gardens and buildings, the impressive City Palace is right in the centre of the Old City. The outer wall was built by Jai Singh II, but within it the palace has been enlarged and adapted over the centuries. There are palace buildings from different eras, some dating from the early 20th century. It is a striking blend of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture.
The price of admission includes entry to Royal Gaitor and the Cenotaphs of the Maharanis, as well as to Jaigarh, a long climb above Amber Fort. This composite ticket is valid for two days and costs Indians an extra ₹60 on top of City Palace entry (no extra cost for foreigners).
Mubarak Mahal
Entering through Virendra Pol, you’ll see the Mubarak Mahal (Welcome Palace), built in the late 19th century for Maharaja Madho Singh II as a reception centre for visiting dignitaries. Its multiarched and colonnaded construction was cooked up in an Islamic, Rajput and European stylistic stew by the architect Sir Swinton Jacob. It now forms part of the Maharaja Sawai Mansingh II Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), containing a collection of royal costumes and superb shawls, including Kashmiri pashmina. One remarkable exhibit is Sawai Madho Singh I’s capacious clothing; it’s said he was a cuddly 2m tall, 1.2m wide and 250kg.
The Armoury
The Anand Mahal Sileg Khana – the Maharani’s Palace – houses the Armoury, which has one of the best collections of weapons in the country. Many of the ceremonial items are elegantly engraved and inlaid, belying their grisly purpose.
Diwan-i-Khas (Sarvatobhadra)
Set between the Armoury and the Diwan-i-Am art gallery is an open courtyard known in Sanskrit as Sarvatobhadra. At its centre is a pink-and-white, marble-paved gallery that was used as the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), where the maharajas would consult their ministers. Here you can see two enormous silver vessels, each 1.6m tall and reputedly the largest silver objects in the world.
Diwan-i-Am Art Gallery
Within the lavish Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) is this art gallery. Exhibits include a copy of the entire Bhagavad Gita (scripture) handwritten in tiny script, and miniature copies of other holy Hindu scriptures, which were small enough to be easily hidden in the event that zealot Mughal armies tried to destroy the sacred texts.
Pitam Niwas Chowk & Chandra Mahal
Located towards the palace’s inner courtyard is Pitam Niwas Chowk. Here four glorious gates represent the seasons – the Peacock Gate depicts autumn, the Lotus Gate signifies summer, the Green Gate represents spring, and finally the Rose Gate embodies winter.
Beyond this chowk (square) is the private palace, the Chandra Mahal, which is still the residence of the descendants of the royal family and where you can take a 45-minute Royal Grandeur guided tour of select areas.
oJantar MantarHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹50/200, guide ₹200, audio guide ₹100; h9am-4.30pm)
Adjacent to the City Palace is Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh II in 1728 that resembles a collection of bizarre giant sculptures. Built for measuring the heavens, the name is derived from the Sanskrit yanta mantr, meaning 'instrument of calculation', and in 2010 it was added to India’s list of Unesco World Heritage Sites. Paying for a local guide is highly recommended if you wish to learn how each fascinating instrument works.
Jai Singh liked astronomy even more than he liked war and town planning. Before constructing the observatory he sent scholars abroad to study foreign constructs. He built five observatories in total, and this is the largest and best preserved (it was restored in 1901). Others are in Delhi, Varanasi and Ujjain. No traces of the fifth, the Mathura observatory, remain.
A valid Amber Fort/Hawa Mahal composite ticket will also gain you entry.
oHawa MahalHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sireh Deori Bazaar; Indian/foreigner incl camera ₹50/200, guide ₹200, audio guide Hindi/English ₹115/170; h9am-5.30pm)
Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal is an extraordinary pink-painted delicately honeycombed hive that rises a dizzying five storeys. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city. The top offers stunning views over Jantar Mantar and the City Palace in one direction and over Sireh Deori Bazaar in the other.
There’s a small museum (open Saturday to Thursday), with miniature paintings and some rich relics, such as ceremonial armour, which help evoke the royal past.
Claustrophobes should be aware that the narrow corridors can sometimes get extremely cramped and crowded inside the Hawa Mahal.
Entrance is from the back of the complex. To get here, return to the intersection on your left as you face the Hawa Mahal, turn right and then take the first right again through an archway. Shopkeepers can show you another way – past their shops!
A valid Amber Fort composite ticket will also gain you entry.
DON'T MISS
HEAVEN-PIERCING MINARET
Iswari Minar Swarga SalNOTABLE BUILDING
(Heaven-Piercing Minaret; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹50/200; h9am-4.30pm)
Piercing the skyline near the City Palace is this unusual minaret, erected in the 1740s by Jai Singh II’s son and successor Iswari. The entrance is around the back of the row of shops fronting Chandpol Bazaar – take the alley 50m west of the minaret along the bazaar or go via the Atishpol entrance to the City Palace compound, 150m east of the minaret. You can spiral to the top of the minaret for excellent views.
Iswari ignominiously killed himself by snakebite (in the Chandra Mahal) rather than face the advancing Maratha army – his 21 wives and concubines then did the necessary noble thing and committed jauhar (ritual mass suicide by immolation) on his funeral pyre.
A valid Amber Fort/Hawa Mahal composite ticket will also gain you entry.
New City
By the mid-19th century it became obvious that the well-planned city was bulging at the seams. During the reign of Maharaja Ram Singh (1835–80) the seams ruptured and the city burst out beyond its walls. Civic facilities, such as a postal system and piped water, were introduced. This period gave rise to a part of town very different from the bazaars of the Old City, with wide boulevards, landscaped grounds and grand European-influenced buildings.
Central MuseumMUSEUM
(Albert Hall; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; J Nehru Marg; Indian/foreigner ₹40/300, audio guide Hindi/English ₹115/175; h9am-6pm)
This museum is housed in the spectacularly florid Albert Hall, south of the Old City. The building was designed by Sir Swinton Jacob, and combines elements of English and North Indian architecture, as well as huge friezes celebrating the world’s great cultures. It was known as the pride of the new Jaipur when it opened in 1887. The grand old building hosts an eclectic array of tribal dress, dioramas, sculptures, miniature paintings, carpets, musical instruments and even an Egyptian mummy.
SRC Museum of IndologyMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 24 Gangwell Park, Prachyavidya Path; Indian/foreigner incl guide ₹40/100; h8am-6pm)
This ramshackle, dusty treasure trove is an extraordinary private collection. It contains folk-art objects and other pieces – there’s everything from a manuscript written by Aurangzeb and a 200-year-old mirror work swing from Bikaner to a glass bed (for a short queen). The museum is signposted off J Nehru Barg.
City Edge
Surrounding the city are several historic sites including forts, temples, palaces and gardens. Some of these can be visited on the way to Amber Fort.
NahargarhFORT
(Tiger Fort; GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹50/200; h10am-5pm)
Built in 1734 and extended in 1868, this sturdy fort overlooks the city from a sheer ridge to the north. The story goes that the fort was named after Nahar Singh, a dead prince whose restless spirit was disrupting construction. Whatever was built in the day crumbled in the night. The prince agreed to leave on condition that the fort was named for him. The views are glorious and there’s a restaurant that’s perfect for a beer.
The best way to visit is to walk or take a cycle-rickshaw (₹50 from MI Rd) to the end of Nahargarh Fort Rd, then climb the steep, winding 2km path to the top. To drive, you have to detour via the Amber area in a circuitous 8km round trip.
A valid Amber Fort/Hawa Mahal composite ticket will also gain you entry.
Royal GaitorHISTORIC SITE
(Gatore ki Chhatriyan; GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹40/100; h9am-5pm)
The royal cenotaphs, just outside the city walls, beneath Nahargarh, are an appropriately restful place to visit and feel remarkably undiscovered. The stone monuments are beautifully and intricately carved. Maharajas Pratap Singh, Madho Singh II and Jai Singh II, among others, are honoured here. Jai Singh II has the most impressive marble cenotaph, with a dome supported by 20 carved pillars.
Jal MahalHISTORIC BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Water Palace; hclosed to the public)
Near the cenotaphs of the maharanis of Jaipur, and beautifully situated in the watery expanse of Man Sagar, is this dreamlike palace. It's origins are uncertain, but it was believed to have been extensively restored if not built by Jai Singh II (1734). It’s accessed via a causeway at the rear, and is undergoing restoration under the auspices of the Jal Tarang (www.jaltarang.in) project.
Cenotaphs of the Maharanis of JaipurHISTORIC SITE
(Maharani ki Chhatri; GOOGLE MAP ; Amber Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹40/100; h9am-5pm)
Located between Jaipur and Amber, 5km from the centre, the cenotaphs of the maharanis of Jaipur are worth a visit for a stroll.
GaltaHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP )
Squeezed between cliffs in a rocky valley, Galta is a desolate, if evocative, place. The temple houses a number of sacred tanks, into which some daring souls jump from the adjacent cliffs. The water is claimed to be several elephants deep and fed from a spring that falls through the mouth of a sculpted cow.
There are some original frescos in reasonable condition in a chamber at the end of the bottom pool, including those depicting athletic feats, the maharaja playing polo, and the exploits of Krishna and the gopis (milkmaids).
It is also known as the Monkey Temple and you will find hundreds of monkeys living here – bold and aggressive macaques and more graceful and tolerable langurs. You can purchase peanuts at the gate to feed to them, but be prepared to be mobbed by teeth-barring primates.
Although only a few kilometres east of the City Palace, Galta is about 10km by road from central Jaipur. An autorickshaw should charge around ₹300 return with waiting time, a taxi will charge at least ₹600.
On the ridge above Galta is the Surya Mandir (Temple of the Sun God; GOOGLE MAP ), which rises 100m above Jaipur and can be seen from the eastern side of the city. A 2.5km-long walking trail climbs up to the temple from Suraj Pol, or you can walk up from the Galta side. There are hazy views over the humming city.
2Activities
Several hotels will let you use their pool for a daily fee; try those at Narain Niwas Palace Hotel and Mansingh Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sansar Chandra Marg; nonguests ₹350; h7am-8pm).
Kerala Ayurveda KendraAYURVEDA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4022446; www.keralaayurvedakendra.com; 32 Indra Colony, Bani Park; h9am-9pm)
Is Jaipur making your nerves jangle? Get help through ayurvedic massage and therapy. Treatments include sirodhara (₹1500/2400 for 50/90 minutes), where medicated oil is steadily streamed over your forehead to reduce stress, tone the brain and help with sleep disorders. Massages (male therapist for male clients and female for female clients) cost from ₹500 for 55 minutes.
It offers free transport to/from your hotel.
Charak AyurvedaAYURVEDA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2205628; www.charakayurveda.com; E-7 Kantichandra Marg, Bani Park; h9am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
A full range of ayurvedic treatments are available. Massages start at ₹500.
Yog Sadhna AshramYOGA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %9314011884; www.yogsadhnaindia.org; Bapu Nagar; hWed-Mon)
Free classes take place among trees off University Rd (near Rajasthan University) and incorporate breathing exercises, yoga asanas (postures) and exercise. Most of the classes are in Hindi, but some English is spoken in the 7.30am to 9.30am class. You can visit for individual classes, or register for longer courses.
Madhavanand Girls CollegeYOGA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; C19 Behari Marg, Bani Park; h6-7am)
This college runs free casual yoga classes every day in both Hindi and English. Very convenient if you happen to be lodging in Bani Park – the college is next door to Madhuban hotel.
TOP STATE FESTIVALS
Jaisalmer Desert Festival (hJan/Feb) A chance for moustache twirlers to compete in the Mr Desert contest.
Gangaur (hMar/Apr) A festival honouring Shiva and Parvati’s love, celebrated statewide but with fervour in Jaipur.
Mewar Festival Udaipur’s version of Gangaur, with free cultural events and a colourful procession down to the lake.
Teej (hJul/Aug) Jaipur and Bundi honour the arrival of the monsoon and Shiva and Parvati’s marriage.
Dussehra Mela (hOct/Nov) Commemorates Rama’s victory over Ravana (the demon king of Lanka). It’s a spectacular time to visit Kota – the huge fair features 22m-tall firecracker-stuffed effigies.
Marwar Festival Celebrates Rajasthani heroes through music and dance; one day is held in Jodhpur, the other in Osian.
Pushkar Camel Fair The most famous festival in the state; it’s a massive congregation of camels, horses and cattle, pilgrims and tourists.
CCourses
Jaipur Cooking ClassesCOOKING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %9928097288; www.jaipurcookingclasses.com; 33 Gyan Vihar, Nirman Nagar, near Ajmer Rd; class veg/nonveg from ₹2000/3700)
Popular cooking classes with chef Lokesh Mathur, who boasts more than 25 years' experience working in the restaurant and hotel business. Classes cover both classic dishes and Rajasthani menus and can be veg or nonveg. After a three-hour lesson, you sit down for a lunch or dinner of what you’ve prepared. Lokesh’s kitchen is outside the western outskirts of Jaipur.
Call ahead for exact directions for your autorickshaw driver.
Kripal KumbhART
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2201127; B18A Shiv Marg, Bani Park)
Advance bookings are essential for these free lessons in blue pottery. Lessons aren’t possible during the monsoon, from late June to mid-September. There’s also a showroom ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2201127; www.kripalkumbh.com; B18A Shiv Marg, Bani Park; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat).
Dhamma Thali Vipassana Meditation CentreHEALTH & WELLBEING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2680220; www.thali.dhamma.org; courses by donation)
This serene vipassana meditation centre is tucked away in the hilly countryside near Galta, a 12km drive east of the city centre. It runs courses in meditation for both beginners and more advanced students throughout the year. Courses are usually for 10 days, during which you must observe noble silence – no communication with others.
TTours
Cyclin’ JaipurCYCLING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %7728060956; www.cyclinjaipur.com; 4hr tour ₹2000; htour 6.45am)
Get up early to beat the traffic for a tour of the Pink City by bike, exploring the hidden lanes, temples, markets and food stalls of Jaipur. It’s a unique and fun way to learn about the workings and culture of the city. Breakfast and refreshments during the tour are included, and helmets are provided on demand.
Tours start at Karnot Mahal, on Ramganj Chaupar in the Old City. Tailor-made walking and food tours are also available.
Vintage Jeep TourSIGHTSEEING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9829404055, 0141-2373700; www.pearlpalaceheritage.com/exclusive-vintage-jeep-tour-jaipur; Lane 2, 54 Gopal Bari; per person ₹2500; h9am-5.30pm)
A fun way to explore Jaipur's major sights (including Amber and the City Palace) is by jeep – a genuine US Army 1942 Ford Jeep. With a dedicated driver and a guide on board, you are guaranteed to be part of a small tour group (maximum three guests), giving great flexibility. Admission prices and lunch costs are not included.
RTDCTOURS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2200778; tours@rtdc.in; RTDC Tourist Office, Platform 1, Jaipur Train Station; half-/full-day tour ₹400/500; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)
Full-day tours (9am to 6pm) take in all the major sights of Jaipur (including Amber Fort), with a lunch break at Nahargarh. The lunch break can be as late as 3pm, so have a big breakfast. Rushed half-day tours (8am to 1pm, 11.30am to 4.30pm, and 1.30pm to 6.30pm) still squeeze in Amber. The tour price doesn’t include admission charges.
Departing at 6.30pm, the Pink City by Night tour (₹700) explores several well-known sights and includes dinner at Nahargarh.
Tours depart from Jaipur train station; the company also picks up and takes bookings from the RTDC Hotel Teej, RTDC Hotel Gangaur and the tourist office at the main bus station.
2Walking Tour
Pink City
Start New Gate
End Ajmer Gate
Length 4.5km; three to five hours
Entering the old city from 1New Gate, turn right into 2Bapu Bazaar, inside the city wall. Brightly coloured bolts of fabric, jootis (traditional shoes) and aromatic perfumes make the street a favourite destination for Jaipur’s women. At the end of Bapu Bazaar you’ll come to 3Sanganeri Gate. Turn left into 4Johari Bazaar, the jewellery market, where you will find jewellers, goldsmiths and artisans doing highly glazed meenakari (enamelwork), a speciality of Jaipur.
Continuing north you’ll pass the famous 5LMB Hotel, the 6Jama Masjid, with its tall minarets, and the bustling 7Badi Chaupar. Be very careful crossing the road here. To the north is 8Sireh Deori Bazaar, also known as Hawa Mahal Bazaar. The name is derived from the spectacular 9Hawa Mahal, a short distance to the north. Turning left on aTripolia Bazaar, you will see a lane leading to the entrance to the Hawa Mahal. A few hundred metres west is the bTripolia Gate. This is the main entrance to the cJantar Mantar and dCity Palace, but only the maharaja’s family may enter here. The public entrance is via the less ostentatious Atishpol (Stable Gate), a little further along.
After visiting the City Palace complex, head back to Tripolia Bazaar and resume your walk west past eIswari Minar Swarga Sal, which is well worth the climb for the view. Cross the bazaar at the minaret and head west. The next lane on the left is fManiharon Rasta, the best place to buy colourful lac (resin) bangles.
Back on Tripolia Bazaar, continue west to cross Choti Chaupar to Chandpol Bazaar until you reach a traffic light. Turn left into gKhajane Walon ka Rasta, where you’ll find marble and stoneware carvers at work. Continue south until you reach a broad road just inside the city wall, hIndra Bazaar. Follow the road east towards iAjmer Gate, which marks the end of the tour.
4Sleeping
Jaipur accommodation pretty much covers all bases, and travellers are spoiled for choice in all budget categories. From May to September, most midrange and top-end hotels offer bargain rates, dropping prices by 25% to 50%.
Around MI Road
oHotel Pearl PalaceHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2373700, 9414236323; www.hotelpearlpalace.com; Hari Kishan Somani Marg, Hathroi Fort; dm ₹400, r with AC ₹1310-1910; aiW)
The dependable Pearl Palace continues to surprise. Ongoing renovations means many excellent rooms simply defy their ordinary tariffs. There’s quite a range of rooms to choose from – small, large, some with AC or fan cooling, and all are spotless. Services include money changing, city tours and travel arrangements, and the hotel boasts the excellent Peacock Rooftop Restaurant. Advance booking is recommended.
Karni NiwasGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2365433, 9929777488; www.hotelkarniniwas.com; C5 Motilal Atal Marg; r ₹1000, with AC ₹1500; aiW)
This friendly hotel has clean, cool and comfortable rooms, often with balconies. There’s no restaurant, but there are relaxing plant-decked terraces to enjoy room service on. And being so central, restaurants aren’t far away. The owner shuns commissions for rickshaw drivers; free pick-up from the train or bus station is available.
Roadhouse Hostel JaipurHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9945522299; www.roadhousehostels.com; D-76 Shiv Heera Path; dm/s/d ₹300/1000/1200; aW)
This bright and friendly hostel is in a quiet residential part of town, but it's not too far from all the restaurants on MI Rd. Six- and eight-bed dorms are spotless and air-conditioned and there are a couple of private rooms. There is a free-use kitchen and games room, and management will help with transport tickets.
There’s a handy rickshaw stand at the end of the road.
Tony Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9928871717; www.facebook.com/tonyguesthousejaipur; 11 Station Road; dm/s/d ₹180/280/340, r with bathroom ₹600; niW)
This friendly choice on a busy road is well set up for travellers and backpackers on a tight budget, with a rooftop garden, honest travel advice, internet and free-flowing chai. Rooms are extremely basic, some with plywood partition walls, and only one has a private bathroom, although it’s with a cold-water shower. The common shower is hot.
oAtithi Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2378679; www.atithijaipur.com; 1 Park House Scheme Rd; s/d ₹1200/1310, with AC ₹1530/1750; aiW)
This nicely presented modern guesthouse, well situated between MI and Station Rds, offers strikingly clean, simple rooms dotted around a quiet courtyard. It’s central but peaceful, and the service is friendly and helpful. Meals are available (the thali is particularly recommended) and you can have a drink on the very pleasant rooftop terrace.
Pearl Palace HeritageHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4106599, 9772558855; www.pearlpalaceheritage.com; Lane 2, 54 Gopal Bari; r ₹3260-3815; aW)
The second hotel for the successful Pearl Palace team is a midrange property boasting some very special characteristics. Stone carvings adorn the halls and each spacious room vibrantly recreates an individual cultural theme, such as a village hut, a sandstone fort, or a mirror-lined palace boudoir. Modern luxuries and facilities have been carefully integrated into the appealing traditional designs.
Dera RawatsarHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2200770; www.derarawatsar.com; D194 Vijay Path; r incl breakfast ₹4500-5500, ste ₹8000; aiWs)
Situated in a quiet suburban street and yet close to the bus station, this tranquil hotel is managed by three generations of women of a gracious Bikaner noble family. The hotel has a range of lovely decorated rooms, sunny courtyards, and offers home-style Indian meals. It is an excellent choice for young families and solo female travellers.
All Seasons HomestayHOMESTAY$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2369443, 9460387055; www.allseasonshomestayjaipur.com; 63 Hathroi Fort; s/d from ₹1600/1700, deluxe ₹2000; aW)
Ranjana and her husband Dinesh run this welcoming homestay in their lovely bungalow on a quiet backstreet behind Hathroi Fort. There are 10 pristine guest rooms, two of which have small kitchens for longer stays. There’s a pleasant lawn, home-cooked meals and cooking lessons. Advance booking is recommended.
Nana-ki-HaveliHERITAGE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2615502; www.nanakihaveli.com; Fateh Tiba; r ₹1800-3000; aiW)
Tucked-away off Moti Dungri Marg is this tranquil place with attractive, comfortable rooms decorated with traditional flourishes (discreet wall painting, wooden furniture). It’s hosted by a lovely family and is a good choice for solo female travellers. It’s fronted by a relaxing lawn and offers home-style cooking and discounted rooms in summer.
Hotel Arya NiwasHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4073456; www.aryaniwas.com; Sansar Chandra Marg; s ₹1635-2725, d ₹2350-3110; aiW)
Just off Sansar Chandra Marg, behind a high-rise tower, this very popular travellers’ haunt has a travel desk, bookshop and yoga lessons. For a hotel of 92 rooms it is very well run, though its size means it’s not as personal as smaller guesthouses. The spotless rooms vary in layout and size so check out a few.
Outside, there’s an extensive terrace facing a soothing expanse of lawn. The self-service vegetarian restaurant doesn’t sell beer, but you can bring your own.
Alsisar HaveliHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2368290; www.alsisar.com; Sansar Chandra Marg; s/d from ₹7605/10,530; aiWs)
This genuine heritage hotel housed in a gracious 19th-century mansion is set in beautiful green gardens, and boasts a lovely swimming pool and grand dining room. Its bedrooms don’t disappoint either, with elegant Rajput arches and antique furnishings. Though a little impersonal, perhaps because it hosts many tour groups, occasional discounts can be found by booking directly online.
Hotel Diggi PalaceHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2373091; www.hoteldiggipalace.com; off Sawai Ram Singh Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹4000/5000; ai)
About 1km south of Ajmer Gate, this former residence of the thakur (nobleman) of Diggi is surrounded by vast shaded lawns. Once a budget hotel, the more expensive rooms are substantially better than the cheaper options. Management prides itself on using organic produce from the hotel’s own gardens and farms in the restaurant.
Bani Park
The Bani Park area is relatively peaceful, away from the main roads, about 2km west of the Old City (northwest of MI Rd).
Vinayak Guest HouseHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2205260; vinayakguesthouse@yahoo.co.in; 4 Kabir Marg, Bani Park; r ₹500-1100; aW)
This welcoming guesthouse is actually in a small, quiet street behind busy Kabir Marg, very convenient to the train station. There is a variety of different rooms and tariffs; those with air-con also have great renovated bathrooms and are your best option. The vegetarian restaurant on the rooftop gets good reports.
oMadhubanHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2200033; www.madhuban.net; D237 Behari Marg; s/d/ste from ₹2290/2615/3865; aiWs)
Madhuban has bright, antique-furnished, spotlessly clean rooms, plus a private enclosed garden for alfresco meals. The vibrantly frescoed restaurant serves Rajasthani specialities in addition to Continental and North Indian dishes, and sits beside the courtyard plunge pool. The relatively peaceful locale of Bani Park makes this place a comfortable stay. Bus and train station pick-up available.
Hotel Anuraag VillaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2201679; www.anuraagvilla.com; D249 Devi Marg; s/d ₹1080/1310, with AC from ₹1800/1970; aiW)
This quiet and comfortable option has no-fuss, spacious rooms and an extensive lawn where you can find some quiet respite from the hassles of sightseeing. It has a highly commended vegetarian restaurant with its kitchen on view, and efficient, helpful staff.
Jaipur InnHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9829013660, 0141-2201121; www.jaipurinn.com; B17 Shiv Marg, Bani Park; r from ₹1500-2000; aiW)
Once a budget travellers’ favourite, this is now a midrange hotel offering an assortment of eclectic and individual rooms. Inspect a few before settling in. Plus points include the helpful manager and several common areas where travellers can make a coffee, use the wi-fi, or grab a meal. Yoga and Bollywood dance lessons can be had on the rooftop.
Hotel MeghniwasGUESTHOUSE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4060100; www.meghniwas.com; C9 Sawai Jai Singh Hwy; r/ste ₹5760/8220; aiWs)
In a building erected by Brigadier Singh in 1950 and run by his gracious descendants, this very welcoming hotel has comfortable and spotless rooms, with traditional carved-wood furniture and leafy outlooks. The standard rooms are spacious, and although it's on a major road it is set well back behind a leafy garden. There’s a first-rate restaurant and an inviting pool.
Jas VilasGUESTHOUSE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2204638; www.jasvilas.com; C9 Sawai Jai Singh Hwy; s/d incl breakfast from ₹6250/6960; aiWs)
This small but impressive hotel was built in 1950 and is still run by the same charming family. It offers spacious rooms, most of which face the large sparkling pool set in a romantic courtyard. Three garden-facing rooms are wheelchair accessible. In addition to the relaxing courtyard and garden, there is a cosy dining room and helpful management.
Shahpura HouseHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2203069; www.shahpura.com; D257 Devi Marg; s/d/ste from ₹7140/8330/9520; aiWs)
Elaborately built and decorated in traditional style, this heritage hotel offers immaculate rooms, some with balconies, featuring murals, coloured-glass lamps, flat-screen TVs, and even ceilings covered in small mirrors (in the suites). This rambling palace boasts a durbar hall (royal reception hall) with a huge chandelier, and a cosy cocktail bar.
There’s also an inviting swimming pool and an elegant rooftop terrace restaurant that stages cultural shows.
Old City
Hotel Sweet DreamHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2314409; www.hotelsweetdreamjaipur.in; Nehru Bazaar; s/d ₹900/1150, with AC from ₹1600/1850; aW)
Probably the best option right inside the Old City, and one of Jaipur's better budget hotels. Several of the rooms have been renovated and enlarged (reducing the overall room count). There are increasing amenities the higher up the price scale (and rickety elevator) you go. There’s a bar plus an excellent rooftop terrace restaurant.
Hotel Bissau PalaceHERITAGE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2304391; www.bissaupalace.com; outside Chandpol; r ₹3270-6540; aiWs)
This is a worthy choice if you want to stay in a palace on a budget. It’s actually just outside the city walls, less than 10 minutes’ walk from Chandpol (a gateway to the Old City). There’s a swimming pool, a handsome wood-panelled library and three restaurants. The hotel has oodles of heritage atmosphere, with antique furnishings and mementos.
Rambagh Environs
Rambagh PalaceHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2385700; www.tajhotels.com; Bhawani Singh Marg; r from ₹43,560; aiWs)
This splendid palace was once the Jaipur pad of Maharaja Man Singh II and his glamorous wife Gayatri Devi. Veiled in hectares of manicured gardens, the hotel – run by the luxury Taj Group brand – has fantastic views across the immaculate lawns. More expensive rooms are naturally the most sumptuous.
Nonguests can join in the magnificence by dining in the lavish restaurants or drinking tea on the gracious verandah. At least treat yourself to a drink at the spiffing Polo Bar.
Narain Niwas Palace HotelHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2561291; www.hotelnarainniwas.com; Narain Singh Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹8425/10,530, deluxe d ₹13,455; aiWs)
In Kanota Bagh, just south of the city, this genuine heritage hotel has wonderful ramshackle splendour. There’s a lavish dining room with liveried staff, an old-fashioned verandah on which to drink tea, and antiques galore. The standard rooms are in a garden wing and aren't as spacious as the high-ceilinged deluxe rooms, which vary in atmosphere and amenities.
Out back you’ll find a large secluded pool (nonguests ₹300 for two hours between 8am and 4pm), a heavenly spa, and sprawling gardens complete with peacocks.
5Eating
Around MI Rd
Indian Coffee HouseCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MI Rd; coffee ₹20-40, snacks ₹35-60; h6am-9pm)
Set back from the street, down an easily missed alley, this traditional coffee house (a venerable co-op–owned institution) offers a pleasant cup of filtered coffee in very relaxed surroundings. Aficionados of Indian Coffee Houses will not be disappointed by the fan-cooled, pale-green ambience. Inexpensive pakoras (deep-fried battered vegetables) and dosas grace the menu.
Jal MahalICE CREAM$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MI Rd; cups & cones ₹30-120; h10am-11pm)
This great little ice-cream parlour has been going since 1952. There are around 50 flavours to choose from, but if it's hot outside, it's hard to beat mango. There are also plenty of other ice-cream concoctions, including sundaes and banana splits, many with fanciful names.
Old Takeaway the Kebab ShopKEBAB$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 151 MI Rd; kebabs ₹90-180; h6-11pm)
One of several similarly named roadside kebab shops on this stretch of MI Road, this one (next to the mosque) is the original (so we’re told) and the best (we agree). It knocks up outstanding tandoori kebabs, including paneer sheesh, mutton sheesh and tandoori chicken. Like the sign says: a house of delicious nonveg corner.
Rawat KachoriSWEETS$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Station Rd; kachori ₹30, lassi ₹50, sweets per kg ₹350-850; h6am-10pm)
Head to this popular takeaway with an attached restaurant for delicious Indian sweets and famous kachori (potato masala in a fried pastry case), a scrumptious savoury snack. A salty or sweet lassi or a delicious milk crown (fluffy dough with cream) should fill you up for the afternoon.
oPeacock Rooftop RestaurantMULTICUISINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2373700; Hotel Pearl Palace, Hari Kishan Somani Marg; mains ₹175-340; h7am-11pm)
This multilevel rooftop restaurant at the Hotel Pearl Palace gets rave reviews for its excellent yet inexpensive cuisine (Indian, Chinese and Continental) and fun ambience. The attentive service, whimsical furnishings and romantic view towards Hathroi Fort make it a first-rate restaurant. In addition to the dinner menu, there are healthy breakfasts and great-value burgers, pizzas and thalis for lunch.
It's wise to make a booking for dinner.
Four SeasonsMULTICUISINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2375450; D43A Subhash Marg; mains ₹125-295; h11am-3.30pm & 6.30-11pm; av)
Four Seasons is one of Jaipur’s best vegetarian restaurants. It’s a popular place with dining on two levels and a glass wall to the busy kitchens. There’s a great range of dishes on offer, including tasty Rajasthani specialities, South Indian dosas, Chinese fare, and a selection of thalis and pizzas. No alcohol.
Anokhi CaféINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4007245; 2nd fl, KK Square, C-11 Prithviraj Marg; mains ₹250-350; h10am-7.30pm; Wv)
This relaxing cafe with a fashionable organic vibe is the perfect place to come if you’re craving a crunchy, well-dressed salad, a quiche or a thickly filled sandwich – or just a respite from the hustle with a latte or an iced tea. The delicious organic loaves of bread are made to order and can be purchased separately.
Handi RestaurantNORTH INDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MI Rd; mains ₹220-440; hnoon-3.30pm & 6-11pm)
Handi has been satisfying customers since 1967, with scrumptious tandoori and barbecue dishes and rich Mughlai curries. In the evenings it sets up a smoky kebab stall at the entrance to the restaurant. Good vegetarian items are also available. No beer.
It’s opposite the main post office, tucked at the back of the Maya Mansions.
Surya MahalSOUTH INDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2362811; MI Rd; mains ₹130-310, thalis ₹240-350; h8am-11pm; av)
This popular option near Panch Batti specialises in South Indian vegetarian food; try the delicious masala dosa and the tasty dhal makhani (black lentils and red kidney beans). There are also Chinese and Italian dishes, and good ice creams, sundaes and cool drinks.
NatrajINDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2375804; MI Rd; mains ₹150-250, thalis ₹250-520; h9am-11pm; av)
Not far from Panch Batti is this classy vegetarian place, which has an extensive menu featuring North Indian, Continental and Chinese cuisine. Diners are blown away by the potato-encased ‘vegetable bomb’ curry. There’s a good selection of thalis and South Indian food – the paper masala dosa is delicious – as well as a great array of Indian sweets.
DãsaprakashSOUTH INDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2371313; 5 Kamal Mansions, MI Rd; mains ₹115-240, thalis ₹310-345; h9am-10.30pm; av)
Part of a renowned chain established in 1921, Dãsaprakash specialises in vegetarian South Indian cuisine, including thalis and several versions of dosa and idli (spongy, round, fermented rice cake). Afterwards you can choose from a wonderful selection of cold drinks and over-the-top ice-cream sundaes.
oNiro’sINDIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2374493; MI Rd; mains ₹250-500; h10am-11pm; a)
Established in 1949, Niro’s is a long-standing favourite on MI Rd that, like a good wine, only improves with age. Escape the chaos of the street by ducking into its cool, clean, mirror-ceilinged sanctum to savour veg and nonveg Indian cuisine with professional service. Classic Chinese and Continental food are available, but the Indian menu is definitely the pick.
Even locals rave about the butter chicken and rogan josh. Beer and wine are served.
Copper ChimneyINDIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2372275; Maya Mansions, MI Rd; mains ₹300-475, thali veg/nonveg ₹490/575; hnoon-3.30pm & 6.30-11pm; a)
Copper Chimney is casual, verging on elegant, and is definitely welcoming, with the requisite waiter army and a fridge of cold beer. It offers excellent veg and nonveg Indian cuisine (with generous servings), including aromatic Rajasthani specials. Continental and Chinese food is also on offer, as is a small selection of Indian wine, but the curry-and-beer combos are hard to beat.
Little ItalyITALIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4022444; 3rd fl, KK Square, Prithviraj Marg; mains ₹300-500; hnoon-10pm; a)
The best Italian restaurant in Jaipur, Little Italy is part of a small national chain that offers excellent vegetarian pasta, risotto, and wood-fired pizzas in cool, contemporary surroundings. The menu is extensive and includes some Mexican items, plus first-rate Italian desserts. It's licensed and there's an attached sister concern, Little India, with an Indian and Chinese menu.
Jaipur Modern KitchenMEDITERRANEAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4113000; www.jaipurmodern.com; 51 Sardar Patel Marg, C-Scheme; mains ₹300-550; h11am-11pm; av)S
In addition to the homewares and fashion, Jaipur Modern boasts this super Mediterranean cafe showcasing organic ingredients and supporting local sustainable agriculture. The tasty pizzas, pasta, momos and wraps are all made in-house. There's even a special emphasis on locally grown quinoa; the Q menu features soups, appetisers, mains and desserts, all containing the versatile seed.
Old City
Ganesh RestaurantNORTH INDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nehru Bazaar; mains ₹100-160; h9am-11.30pm; v)
This pocket-sized outdoor restaurant is in a fantastic location on the top of the Old City wall near New Gate. The chef is in a pit on one side of the wall, so you can check out your pure vegetarian food being cooked. If you’re looking for a local eatery with fresh tasty food such as paneer butter masala, you’ll love it.
There’s an easy-to-miss signpost, but no doubt a stallholder will show you the narrow stairway.
MohanINDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 144-5 Nehru Bazaar; mains ₹25-150, thali ₹80; h9am-10.30pm; v)
Tiny Mohan is easy to miss: it’s a few steps down from the footpath on the corner of the street. It’s basic, cheap and a bit grubby, but the thalis, curries (half-plate and full plate) and snacks are freshly cooked and very popular.
LMBINDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2560845; Johari Bazaar; mains ₹210-320; h8am-11pm; av)
Laxmi Misthan Bhandar, LMB to you and me, is a vegetarian restaurant in the Old City that’s been going strong since 1954. A welcoming air-conditioned refuge from frenzied Johari Bazaar, LMB is also an institution with its singular decor, attentive waiters and extensive sweet counter. Now it is no longer purely sattvik (pure vegetarian), you can now order meals with onion and garlic.
Popular with both local and international tourists, try the Rajasthan thali (₹540) followed by the signature kulfa (₹100, a fusion of kulfi and falooda with dry fruits and saffron).
Hotel Sweet DreamMULTICUISINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2314409; www.hotelsweetdreamjaipur.in; Nehru Bazaar; mains ₹130-285; a)
This hotel in the Old City has a splendid restaurant on the roof with views down to bustling Nehru Bazaar. It's a great place to break the shopping spree and grab a light lunch or a refreshing makhania lassi (₹140) made with fresh fruits and curd. The menu includes pizza and Chinese, but the Indian is best.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oLassiwalaCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MI Rd; lassi small/large ₹25/50; h7.30am until sold out)
This famous, much-imitated institution is a simple place that whips up fabulous, creamy lassis in clay cups. Get here early to avoid disappointment! Will the real Lassiwala please stand up? It’s the one that says ‘Shop 312’ and ‘Since 1944’, directly next to the alleyway. Imitators spread to the right as you face it.
oCurious LifeCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2229877; www.facebook.com/curiouslifecoffeeroasters; P25 Yudhisthira Marg, C-Scheme; coffees from ₹75; h9am-10pm; W)
The latest coffee trends brew away in this showcase of Indian hipster-hood. Single-origin, espresso, French press, AeroPress, V60 pour over – you name it, and you'll find it brewing here among the predominantly 20-something crowd. There are also cold brews, smoothies, shakes and muffins, all underscored by a curiously retro soundtrack.
oBar PalladioBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2565556; www.bar-palladio.com; Narain Niwas Palace Hotel, Narain Singh Rd; cocktails ₹500-700; h6-11pm)
This cool bar-restaurant boasts an extensive drinks list and an Italian food menu (mains ₹350 to ₹400). The vivid blue theme of the romantic Orientalist interior flows through to candlelit outdoor seating, making this a very relaxing place to sip a drink, snack on bruschetta and enjoy a conversation. Il Teatro is an occasional live-music event at the bar – see the website for dates.
100% RockBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hotel Shikha, Yudhishthir Marg, C-Scheme; pint of beer/cocktails from ₹190/300; h11am-12.30am; W)
Attached to, but separate from Hotel Shikha, this is the closest thing there is to a beer garden in Jaipur, with plenty of outdoor seating as well as air-conditioned side rooms and a clubby main room with a small dance floor. Two-for-one beer offers are common, making this popular with local youngsters.
Polo BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rambagh Palace Hotel, Bhawan Singh Marg; hnoon-midnight)
This spiffing watering hole adorned with polo memorabilia boasts arched, scalloped windows framing the neatly clipped lawns. A bottle of beer costs from ₹400 according to the label, a glass of wine starts at ₹550, and cocktails cost from ₹600. Delicious snacks are also available throughout the day.
Café Coffee DayCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Country Inn & Suites, MI Rd; coffees ₹80-150; h10am-10pm)
The franchise that successfully delivers espresso to coffee addicts, as well as the occasional creamy concoction and muffin, has several branches in Jaipur. In addition to this one, sniff out the brews at Paris Point on Sawai Jai Singh Hwy (aka Collectorate Rd), at the central museum, and near the exit point at Amber Fort.
3Entertainment
Jaipur isn’t a big late-night party town, though many of its hotels put on some sort of evening music, dance or puppet show. English-language films are occasionally screened at some cinemas – check the cinemas and local press for details.
Raj Mandir CinemaCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2379372; www.therajmandir.com; Baghwandas Marg; tickets ₹120-400; hreservations 10am-6pm, screenings 12.30pm, 3pm, 6.30pm & 10pm)
Just off MI Rd, Raj Mandir is the place to go to see a Hindi film in India. This opulent cinema looks like a huge pink cream cake, with a meringue auditorium and a foyer somewhere between a temple and Disneyland. Bookings can be made one hour to seven days in advance at windows 9 and 10.
Advance booking is your best chance of securing a seat, but forget it in the early days of a new release. Alternatively, sharpen your elbows and join the queue when the current booking office opens 45 minutes before curtain up. Avoid the cheapest tickets, which seat you very close to the screen.
Chokhi DhaniLIVE PERFORMANCE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-5165000; www.chokhidhani.com; Tonk Rd; adult/child incl Rajasthani thali from ₹600/350; h6-11pm)
Chokhi Dhani, meaning ‘special village', is a mock Rajasthani village 20km south of Jaipur, and is a fun place to take kids. There are open-air restaurants, where you can enjoy a tasty Rajasthani thali, plus a bevy of traditional entertainment – dancers, acrobats, snack stalls – and adventure-park-like activities for kids to swing on, slide down and hide in.
There are more expensive tickets depending on which dining experience you opt for. A return taxi from Jaipur, including waiting time, will cost about ₹800.
Polo GroundSPECTATOR SPORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %ticket info 0141-2385380; Ambedkar Circle, Bhawan Singh Marg)
Maharaja Man Singh II indulged his passion for polo by building an enormous polo ground next to Rambagh Palace, which is still a polo-match hub today. A ticket to a match also gets you into the lounge, which is adorned with historic photos and memorabilia. The polo season extends over winter. Contact the Rajasthan Polo Club for info about tickets.
7Shopping
Jaipur is a shopper’s paradise. Commercial buyers come here from all over the world to stock up on the amazing range of jewellery, gems, textiles and crafts that come from all over Rajasthan. You’ll have to bargain hard, particularly around major tourist sights.
Many shops can send your parcels home for you – often cheaper than if you do it yourself.
The city is still loosely divided into traditional artisans’ quarters. Bapu Bazaar is lined with saris and fabrics, and is a good place to buy trinkets. Johari Bazaar and Sireh Deori Bazaar are where many jewellery shops are concentrated, selling gold, silver and highly glazed enamelwork known as meenakari, a Jaipur speciality. You may also find better deals for fabrics with the cotton merchants of Johari Bazaar.
Kishanpol Bazaar is famous for textiles, particularly bandhani (tie-dye). Nehru Bazaar also sells fabric, as well as jootis (traditional shoes), trinkets and perfume. The best place for bangles is Maniharon Rasta.
Plenty of factories and showrooms are strung along the length of the road to Amber, between Zorawar Singh Gate and the Park Regis Hotel, to catch the tourist traffic. Here you’ll find huge emporiums selling block prints, blue pottery, carpets and antiques. Note that these shops are used to busloads of tourists swinging in to blow their cash, so you’ll need to wear your bargaining hat.
Rickshaw-wallahs, hotels and travel agents will be getting a hefty cut from any shop they steer you towards. Many unwary visitors get talked into buying things for resale at inflated prices, especially gems. Beware of these get-rich-quick scams.
Jaipur ModernFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4112000; www.jaipurmodern.com; 51 Sardar Patel Marg, C-Scheme; h11am-11pm)
This contemporary showroom offers local arts and crafts, clothing, homewares, stationary and fashion accessories. The staff are relaxed (no hard sell here) and if you are not in the mood to shop, there's a great cafe serving Lavazza coffee and Mediterranean snacks.
Inde RoohCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9829404055, 9929442022; www.inderooh.com; Hotel Pearl Palace, Hari Kishan Somani Marg; h10.30am-10.30pm)
This tiny outlet in the Hotel Pearl Palace highlights the talents of Jaipur's traditional block printers blended with contemporary design. Handmade and stitched, the quality and value of the women's and menswear compares well with Jaipur's more famous fashion houses. Homewares are also available.
RajasthaliARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MI Rd; h11am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)
This state-government-run emporium, opposite Ajmer Gate, is packed with quality Rajasthani artefacts and crafts, including enamelwork, embroidery, pottery, woodwork, jewellery, puppets, block-printed sheets, miniatures, brassware, mirrorwork and more. Scout out prices here before launching into the bazaar; items can be cheaper at the markets, but the quality is often higher at the state emporium for not much more money.
AnokhiCLOTHING, TEXTILES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.anokhi.com; 2nd fl, KK Square, C-11 Prithviraj Marg; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun)
Anokhi is a classy, upmarket boutique selling stunning high-quality textiles such as block-printed fabrics, tablecloths, bed covers, cosmetic bags and scarves, as well as a range of well-designed, beautifully made clothing that combines Indian and Western influences. There’s a wonderful little cafe on the premises and an excellent bookshop in the same building.
FabindiaCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-4015279; www.fabindia.com; B 4 E- Prithviraj Road; h11am-9pm)
A great place to coordinate colours with reams of rich fabrics, plus furniture and home accessories. You can also find organically certified garments, beauty products and condiments. Located opposite Central Park, gate number 4.
Silver ShopJEWELLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hotel Pearl Palace, Hari Kishan Somani Marg; h6-10pm)
A trusted jewellery shop backed by the hotel management that hosts the store. A money-back guarantee is offered on all items. Find it under the peacock canopy in the hotel’s Peacock Rooftop Restaurant.
CrosswordBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1st fl, KK Square, Prithvirag Marg; h11am-9pm)
Crossword is an excellent bookshop with all sorts of fiction and nonfiction, including the latest best sellers, pictorial books and books on Indian history. Music CDs and DVDs are also available. There is a cafe and restaurant in the same building.
MojariCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2377037; D-67 Shiv Heera Marg; h10am-6.30pm)
Named after the traditional decorated shoes of Rajasthan, Mojari is a UN-supported project that helps rural leatherworkers, traditionally among the poorest members of society. A wide variety of footwear (₹300 to ₹1000) is available, including embroidered, appliquéd and open-toed shoes, mules and sandals. There’s a particularly good choice for women, plus a small selection of handmade leather bags and purses.
SHOPPING FOR GEMS
Jaipur is famous for precious and semiprecious stones. There are many shops offering bargain prices, but you do need to know your gems. The main gem-dealing area is around the Muslim area of Pahar Ganj, in the southeast of the Old City. Here you can see stones being cut and polished in workshops tucked off narrow backstreets.
One of the oldest scams in India is the gem scam, where tourists are fooled into thinking they can buy gems to sell at a profit elsewhere. To receive an authenticity certificate, you can deposit your gems at the gem-testing laboratory ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2568221; www.gtljaipur.info; Rajasthan Chamber Bhawan, MI Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) between 10am and 4pm, then return the following day between 4pm and 5pm to pick up the certificate. The service costs ₹1050 per stone, or ₹1650 for same-day service, if deposited before 1pm.
8Information
Internet Access
Internet cafes are thin on the ground, but almost all hotels and guesthouses provide wi-fi and/or internet access.
Mewar Cyber Café ( GOOGLE MAP ; Station Rd; per hour ₹30; h7am-11pm) Near the main bus station.
Medical Services
Most hotels can arrange a doctor on-site.
Santokba Durlabhji Memorial Hospital (SDMH; GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2566251; www.sdmh.in; Bhawan Singh Marg) Private hospital, with 24-hour emergency department, helpful staff and clear bilingual signage. Consultancy fee ₹400.
Sawai Mansingh Hospital (SMS Hospital; GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2518222, 0141-2518597; Sawai Ram Singh Rd) State-run, but part of Soni Hospitals group (www.sonihospitals.com). Before 3pm, outpatients go to the CT & MRI Centre; after 3pm, go to the adjacent Emergency Department.
Money
There are plenty of places to change money, including numerous hotels, and masses of ATMs, most of which accept foreign cards.
Thomas Cook ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2360940; Jaipur Towers, MI Rd; h9.30am-6pm) Changes cash and travellers cheques.
Post
DHL Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2361159; www.dhl.co.in; G8, Geeta Enclave, Vinobha Marg; h10am-8pm) Look for the sub-branch on MI Rd then walk down the lane beside it to find DHL Express. For parcels, the first kilogram is expensive, but each 500g thereafter is cheap. All packaging is included in the price. Credit cards and cash accepted.
Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2368740; MI Rd; h8am-7.45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5.45pm Sat) A cost-effective and efficient institution, though the back-and-forth can infuriate. Parcel-packing-wallahs in the foyer must first pack, stitch and wax seal your parcel for a small fee before sending.
Tourist information
Jaipur Vision and Jaipur City Guide are two useful, inexpensive booklets available at bookshops and some hotel lobbies (where they are free). They feature up-to-date listings, maps, local adverts and features.
RTDC Tourist Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-5155137; www.rajasthantourism.gov.in; former RTDC Tourist Hotel, MI Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri) Has maps and brochures on Jaipur and Rajasthan. Additional branches at the airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2722647; Airport; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri), Amber Fort ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2530264; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri), Jaipur train station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2200778; Jaipur Train Station, platform 1; h24hr) and the main bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-5064102; Main Bus Station, platform 3; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri).
8Getting There & Away
Air
Jaipur International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2550623; www.jaipurairport.com) is located 12km southeast of the city.
It’s possible to arrange flights to Jaipur from Europe, the US and other places, via Delhi. A few direct flights run to Bangkok and Singapore and the Gulf.
Air India ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2743500, airport 0141-2721333; www.airindia.com; Nehru Place, Tonk Rd) Daily flights to Delhi and Mumbai.
IndiGo ( GOOGLE MAP ; %9212783838; www.goindigo.in; Terminal 2, Jaipur International Airport) Flights to Ahmedabad, Bengaluru (Bangalore), Chennai (Madras), Delhi, Hyderabad, Kolkata (Calcutta), Mumbai and Pune.
Jet Airways ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2725025, 1800 225522; www.jetairways.com; Airport; h5.30am-9pm) Flights to Delhi and Mumbai.
SpiceJet ( GOOGLE MAP ; %9871803333; www.spicejet.com; Terminal 2, Jaipur International Airport; h6am-7pm) Daily flights to Delhi.
Scoot (%8000016354; www.scoot.com) Three weekly flights to Singapore.
Thai Smile (%Thailand +662-1188888; www.thaismileair.com) Three weekly flights to Bangkok.
Bus
Rajasthan State Road Transport Corporation (RSRTC, aka Rajasthan Roadways) buses all leave from the main bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Station Rd; left luggage per bag per 24hr ₹10), picking up passengers at Narain Singh Circle (where you can also buy tickets). There’s a left-luggage office at the main bus station, as well as a prepaid autorickshaw stand.
Ordinary buses are known as ‘express’ buses, but there are also ‘deluxe’ buses (coaches, really, but still called buses), which vary a lot but are generally much more expensive and comfortable (usually with air-con but not always) than ordinary express buses. Deluxe buses leave from Platform 3, tucked away in the right-hand corner of the bus station. Unlike ordinary express buses, seats can be booked in advance from the reservation office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-5116032; Main Bus Station).
With the exception of those going to Delhi (half-hourly), deluxe buses are much less frequent than ordinary buses.
Main Buses from Jaipur
| Destination | Fare (₹) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Agra | 261-289, AC 470-573 | 5½ | 11 daily |
| Ajmer | 150, AC 316 | 2½ | at least hourly |
| Bharatpur | 195, AC 410 | 4½ | at least hourly |
| Bikaner | 334, AC 596 | 5½-7 | hourly |
| Bundi | 216 | 5 | 5 daily |
| Chittorgarh | 339, AC 585 | 7 | 6 daily |
| Delhi | 273, AC 800 | 5½ | at least hourly |
| Jaisalmer | 593 | 14 | 2 daily |
| Jhunjhunu | 181, AC 321 | 3½-5 | half-hourly |
| Jodhpur | 340, AC 741 | 5½-7 | every 2 hours |
| Kota | 252 | 5 | hourly |
| Mt Abu (Abu Road) | 486, AC 866 | 10½-13 | 6 daily |
| Nawalgarh | 145, AC 258 | 2½-4 | hourly |
| Pushkar | 161 | 3 | daily |
| Udaipur | 420, AC 914 | 10 | 6 daily |
Car & Motorcycle
Most hotels and the RTDC tourist office can arrange a car and driver. Depending on the vehicle, costs are ₹9 to ₹12 per kilometre, with a minimum rental rate equivalent to 250km per day. Also expect to pay a ₹200 overnight charge, and note that you will have to pay for the driver to return to Jaipur even if you are not returning.
Rajasthan Auto Centre You can hire, buy or fix a Royal Enfield Bullet (and lesser motorbikes) at Rajasthan Auto Centre, the cleanest little motorcycle workshop in India. To hire a 350cc Bullet costs ₹600 per day (including helmet) within Jaipur.
Train
The reservation office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %enquiries 131, reservations 135; h8am-2pm & 3-8pm) is to your left as you enter Jaipur train station. It’s open for advance reservations only (more than five hours before departure). Join the queue for ‘Freedom Fighters and Foreign Tourists’ (counter 769).
For same-day travel, buy your ticket at the northern end of the train station at Platform 1, window 10 (closed 6am to 6.30am, 2pm to 2.30pm and 10pm to 10.30pm).
Station facilities on Platform 1 include an RTDC tourist office, Tourism Assistance Force (police), a cloakroom for left luggage (₹16 per bag per 24 hours), retiring rooms, restaurants and air-con waiting rooms for those with 1st-class and 2AC train tickets.
There’s a prepaid autorickshaw stand and local taxis at the road entrance to the train station.
Services include the following:
AAgra sleeper ₹185, 3½ to 4½ hours, nine daily
AAhmedabad sleeper ₹350, nine to 13 hours, seven daily (12.30am, 2.20am, 4.25am, 8.40am, 11.45am, 2.20pm and 8.35pm)
AAjmer (for Pushkar) sleeper ₹90, two hours, 21 daily
ABikaner sleeper ₹275, 6½ to 7½ hours, three daily (12.45am, 4.15pm, 9.45pm)
ADelhi sleeper ₹245, 4½ to six hours, at least nine daily (1am, 2.50am, 4.40am, 5am, 6am, 2.35pm, 4.25pm, 5.50pm and 11.15pm), more on selected days
AJaisalmer sleeper ₹350, 12 hours, three daily (11.10am, 4.15pm and 11.45pm)
AJodhpur sleeper ₹250, 4½ to six hours, 10 daily (12.45am, 2.45am, 6am, 9.25am, 11.10am, 11.25am, 12.20pm, 5pm, 10.40pm and 11.45pm)
ARanthambhore NP (Sawai Madhopur) sleeper ₹180, two to three hours, at least nine daily (12.30am, 5.40am, 6.40am, 11.05am, 2pm, 4.50pm, 5.35pm, 7.35pm and 8.45pm), more on selected days
AUdaipur sleeper ₹270, seven to eight hours, three daily (6.15am, 2pm and 11pm)
Major Trains from Jaipur
| Destination | Train | Departure Time | Arrival Time | Fare (₹) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Agra (Cantonment) | 19666 Udaipur-Kurj Exp | 6.15am | 11am | 185/510 (A) |
| Agra (Fort) | 12035 Jaipur-AF Shatabdi | 7.05am | 10.35am | 505/1050 (D) |
| Ahmedabad | 12958 Adi Sj Rajdhani | 12.30am | 9.40am | 1130/1580 (B) |
| Ajmer (for Pushkar) | 12195 Ajmer-AF Intercity | 9.40am | 11.50am | 100/325 (C) |
| Bikaner | 12307 Howrah-Jodhpur Exp | 12.45am | 8.15am | 275/705 (A) |
| Delhi (New Delhi) | 12016 Ajmer Shatabdi | 5.50pm | 10.40pm | 570/1205 (D) |
| Delhi (S Rohilla) | 12985 Dee Double Decker | 6am | 10.30am | 505/1205 (D) |
| Jaisalmer | 14659 Delhi-JSM Exp | 11.45pm | 11.40am | 350/935 (A) |
| Jodhpur | 22478 Jaipur-Jodhpur SF Exp | 6am | 10.30am | 515/625 (E) |
| Sawai Madhopur | 12466 Intercity Exp | 11.05am | 1.15pm | 180/325/560 (F) |
| Udaipur | 19665 Jaipur–Udaipur Exp | 11pm | 6.45am | 270/715 (A) |
Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC, (B) 3AC/2AC, (C) 2nd-class seat/AC chair, (D) AC chair/1AC, (E) AC chair/3AC, (F) sleeper/AC chair/3AC
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
There are no bus services from the airport. An autorickshaw/taxi costs at least ₹350/450. There’s a prepaid taxi booth inside the terminal.
Autorickshaw
Autorickshaw drivers at the bus and train stations might just be the pushiest in Rajasthan. Use the fixed-rate prepaid autorickshaw stands instead. Keep hold of your docket to give to the driver at the end of the journey. In other cases be prepared to bargain hard – expect to pay at least ₹80 from either station to the Old City.
Cycle-rickshaw
You can do your bit for the environment by flagging down a lean-limbed cycle-rickshaw rider. Though it can be uncomfortable watching someone pedalling hard to transport you, this is how they make a living. A short trip costs about ₹50.
Public Transport
Jaipur Metro (%0141-2385790; www.jaipurmetrorail.info) currently operates about 10km of track, known as the Pink Line, and nine stations. The track starts southwest of the Pink City in Mansarovar, travels through Civil Lines, and currently terminates at Chandpole. At the time of writing, the continuation of this track through the Pink City from Chandpole to Badi Chaupar was under construction. Fares are between ₹5 and ₹15.
Taxi
There are unmetered taxis available, which will require negotiating a fare.
Metro Cabs (%0414-4244444; www.metrocabs.in; flagfall incl 2km ₹50, then per km ₹10-12, plus per min ₹1, night surcharge 10pm-6am 25%; h24hr) Taxis can hired for sightseeing for four-/eight-hour blocks for ₹700/1350.