Plenty of international airlines service India, and overland routes to and from Nepal, Bangladesh, and Bhutan are all currently open. Flights, tours and other tickets can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
Entering India by air or land is relatively straightforward, with standard immigration and customs procedures. A frustrating law barring re-entry into India within two months of the previous date of departure has been done away with (except for citizens of some Asian countries), thus allowing most travellers to combine their India tour with side trips to neighbouring countries.
To enter India you need a valid passport and an onward/return ticket, and a visa. Note that your passport needs to be valid for at least six months beyond your intended stay in India, with at least two blank pages. If your passport is lost or stolen, immediately contact your country’s representative. Keep photocopies of your airline ticket and the identity and visa pages of your passport in case of emergency. Better yet, scan and email copies to yourself.
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
India has six main gateways for international flights; however, a number of other cities such as Goa, Kochi (Cochin), Lucknow, Trivandrum and Kunnar also service international carriers.
India’s national carrier is Air India (%1800-1801407; www.airindia.com), which operates international and domestic flights. Air travel in India has had a relatively decent safety record in recent years.
International airports include:
Delhi (%01243376000; www.newdelhiairport.in)
Departure tax and other charges are included in airline tickets. You are required to show a copy of your ticket and your passport in order to enter the airport, whether flying internationally or within India.
Passenger ships sail from Chennai to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands once weekly (₹2500 to ₹6420; 60 hours).
Although most visitors fly into India, it is possible to travel overland between India and Bangladesh, Bhutan, Nepal, Pakistan and Myanmar. The overland route from Nepal is the most popular. For more on these routes, check for up-to-date information on Lonely Planet’s Thorntree forum (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) or see the ‘Europe to India overland’ section on www.seat61.com/India.htm.
If you enter India by bus or train, you’ll be required to disembark at the border for standard immigration and customs checks.
You must have a valid Indian visa in advance, as no visas are available at the border.
Drivers of cars and motorbikes will need the vehicle’s registration papers, liability insurance and an international drivers’ permit in addition to their domestic licence. You’ll also need a Carnet de Passage en Douane, which acts as a temporary waiver of import duty on the vehicle.
For travellers wishing to visit Tibet from India, the only way to do so is to exit to Nepal and then enter Tibet through the border crossing at Kodari as part of an organised tour. Alternately, you could fly to Lhasa from Kathmandu.
To find out the latest requirements for the paperwork and other important driving information, contact your local automobile association.
Foreigners can use four land crossings between Bangladesh and India, all in West Bengal or the Northeast States.
Heading from Bangladesh to India, you have to prepay the exit tax, which can be done at a Sonali Bank branch (either in Dhaka, another big city or at the closest branch to the border).
Exiting Bangladesh overland is complicated by red tape – if you enter the country by air, you require a road permit (or ‘change of route’ permit) to leave by land.
To apply for visa extensions and change of route permits you will need to visit the Immigration and Passport Office (%01733393323; Agargaon Rd, Dhaka, Bangladesh; hSat-Thu) in Dhaka.
Some travellers have reported problems exiting Bangladesh overland with the visa issued on arrival at Dhaka airport.
Overland to/from Bangladesh
| Route/Border towns | Transport | Visas | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kolkata–Dhaka/Petrapole (India) & Benapole (Bangladesh) | Regular daily Kolkata–Dhaka buses; twice-weekly train via Darsana border post. | Obtain in advance. To buy a train ticket, Darsana must be marked on your Bangladesh visa. | |
| Siliguri–Chengrabandha/Chengrabandha (India) & Burimari (Bangladesh) | Regular direct Siliguri–Chengrabandha buses; then bus to Rangpur, Bogra & Dhaka. | Obtain in advance. | |
| Shillong–Sylhet/Dawki (India) & Tamabil (Bangladesh) | Jeeps run from Shillong to Dawki. From Dawki walk (1.5km) or take a taxi to Tamabil bus station for regular buses to Sylhet. | Obtain in advance. | |
| Agartala–Dhaka/Agartala, 3km from border along Akhaura Rd (India) & Akhaura, 5km from border (Bangladesh) | Akhaura is on Dhaka–Comilla train line. Dhaka–Sylhet trains run from Ajampur train station, 3km further north. | Obtain in advance. |
Phuentsholing is the main entry and exit point between India and Bhutan, although the eastern checkpost at Samdrup Jongkhar is also used.
As entry requirements need advance planning and are subject to change, we recommend you consult a travel agent or Bhutanese embassy for up-to-the-minute details. Travellers need to organise a tour with a Bhutanese travel agent and pay a fixed daily fee in order to obtain a Bhutanese visa. Also see www.tourism.gov.bt and Lonely Planet’s Bhutan.
Overland to/from Bhutan
| Route/Border Towns | Transport | Visas | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Siliguri–Kolkata–Phuentsholing/Jaigon (India) & Phuentsholing (Bhutan) | From Kolkata, direct bus at 7pm thrice weekly. From Siliguri daily buses and possibly shared jeeps to Jaigon/Phuentsholing. | Non-Indian nationals need visa & tour booking with registered operator. |
Political and weather conditions permitting, there are five land border crossings between India and Nepal. Check the current security status before crossing into Nepal; local newspapers and websites are good sources of information.
Multiple-entry visas (15/30/90 days US$25/40/100 – US dollars cash, not rupees) are available at the Nepal immigration post (you need two passport photos). You can now save time by applying online at http://online.nepalimmigration.gov.np/tourist-visa. Your receipt, which you must produce at the border within 15 days of your application, outlines border procedures.
Travellers have reported being harassed crossing into India at the Sunauli border and having to pay inflated prices for bus and train tickets. Consider taking a taxi to Gorakpur and getting a train or bus from there.
Overland to/from Nepal
| Border Crossing | Coming from (in India) | Going to (in Nepal) | Transport | Visas |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sunauli (India)–Bhairawa/Siddharthanagar (Nepal) | Delhi, Varanasi | Kathmandu | Trains from Delhi to Gorakhpur, then half-hourly buses to border. There are direct AC buses now from Varanasi to Kathmandu (via Sunauli), departing nightly 10pm, for Rs1370. Buses & jeeps from Bhairawa (Siddharthanagar) to Pokhara, Kathmandu and central Nepal. | Nepali visas only available at border (6am-10pm) |
| Raxaul Bazaar (India)–Birganj (Nepal) | Kolkata, Patna & the eastern plains | Kathmandu, Pokhara | Daily buses from Patna & Kolkata to Raxaul Bazaar. Mithila Express train daily from Kolkata. Regular day/night buses from Birganj to Kathmandu & Pokhara. | As above. (6am-6pm) |
| Panitanki (India)–Kakarbhitta (Nepal) | Darjeeling, Kolkata & West Bengal | Eastern Nepal | Jeeps run to Panitanki from Siliguri, Darjeeling & Kalimpong. Regular buses from Kakarbhitta to Kathmandu (17hr) & other destinations. Bhadrapur airport (23km away) has flights to Kathmandu. | As above. (7am-7pm) |
| Rupaidiha Bazaar/Jamunaha (India) –Nepalganj (Nepal) | Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh | Bardia National Park, Western Nepal | Slow buses from Lucknow to Rupaidha Bazaar, then rickshaw to Jamunaha. Nepalganj has buses to Kathmandu & Pokhara, flights to Kathmandu. | As above. |
| Banbassa (India)–Bhimdatta/Mahendranangar (Nepal) | Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh | Western Nepal | Buses from Haldwani & Pithoragarh to Banbassa then rickshaw to border. From Bhimdatta (Mahendranagar) there are daily buses to Kathmadu and one daily service to Pokhara. | As above. (6am-6pm) |
| Gauriphanta (India)–Dhangadhi (Nepal) | Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh | Western Nepal | Daily buses run from Lucknow to Gauriphanta. Dhangadi is served by buses and flights from Kathmandu. | As above. (8am-5pm) |
Given the rocky relationship between India and Pakistan, crossing by land depends on the current state of relations between the two countries – check locally.
If the crossings are open, you can reach Pakistan from Delhi, Amritsar (Punjab) and Rajasthan by bus or train. The 'Karvan-e-Aman' (Caravan of Peace) bus route from Srinagar to Pakistan-administered Kashmir is only open to Indian citizens.
You must have a visa to enter Pakistan. It’s easiest to obtain this from the Pakistan mission in your home country. At the time of writing, the Pakistan Embassy in Delhi was not issuing tourist visas for most nationalities, but this could change.
Assuming the border is open, the Lahore Bus Service departs from Delhi (6am daily,₹ 2400) for Lahore, the journey takes 12 hours, with four stops. Advance bookings are essential.
Current government advice warns foreigners against using trains within Pakistan for security reasons. There are twice weekly trains between Lahore and Attari (on the Indian side of the border), where there is a customs and immigration stop. There are buses from Amritsar to Attari. Check the border is open before you leave; usual hours are 8.30am to 2.30pm mid-April to mid-October, and 9.30am to 3pm mid-October to mid-April; arrive at least an hour before closure. From Wagah there are buses and taxis on to Lahore.
The Thar Express, a Jodhpur–Karachi train leaves every Saturday at 1am (Friday in the opposite direction). Advance booking only (but not possible online). Customs/immigration is at Munabao (Indian border), where you physically change trains. Expect extremely tight security.
Transport in India is frequent and inexpensive, though prone to overcrowding and delays. Trains, buses and shared jeeps run almost everywhere, at all times of day and night, though working out the time you will actually arrive at your destination after all the delays, traffic jams and mechancial faults can be a challenge. To save time, consider domestic flights over long-distance buses and trains. Urban transport is cheap and frequent, and you'll never struggle to find a taxi, rickshaw or autorickshaw.
Transporting vast numbers of passengers annually, India has a very competitive domestic airline industry. Major carriers include Air India, IndiGo, Spice Jet and Jet Airways.
Apart from airline sites, bookings can be made through portals such as Cleartrip (www.cleartrip.com), Make My Trip (www.makemytrip.com) and Yatra (www.yatra.com).
Security norms require you to produce your ticket and your passport at the time of entering an airport. Every item of cabin baggage needs a label, which must be stamped as part of the security check (collect tags at the check-in counter). Flights to sensitive destinations, such as Srinagar and Ladakh, have extra security restrictions. You may also have to allow for a spot-check of your cabin baggage on the tarmac before you board.
Keeping peak hour congestion in mind, the recommended check-in time for domestic flights is two hours before departure – the deadline is 45 minutes. The usual baggage allowance is 20kg (10kg for smaller aircraft) in economy class.
There are no restrictions on bringing a bicycle into the country. However, bicycles sent by sea can take a few weeks to clear customs in India, so it’s better to fly them in. It may be cheaper – and less hassle – to hire or buy a bicycle locally. Read up on bicycle touring before you travel: Rob Van Der Plas’ Bicycle Touring Manual and Stephen Lord’s Adventure Cycle-Touring Handbook and Laura Stone's Himalaya by Bike are good places to start. The Cycling Federation of India (%011-23753528; www.cyclingfederationofindia.org) can provide local information.
ATourist centres and traveller hang-outs are the easiest spots to find bicycles for hire – enquire locally.
APrices vary: from around ₹40 to ₹150 per day for a roadworthy, Indian-made bicycle; mountain bikes, where available, are usually ₹400 to ₹800 per day.
AHire places may require a cash security deposit (it may be stating the obvious, but avoid leaving your airline ticket or passport).
AMountain bikes with off-road tyres give the best protection against India’s puncture-inducing roads.
ARoadside cycle mechanics abound but you should still bring spare tyres, brake cables, lubricating oil, chain repair kit and plenty of puncture-repair patches.
ABikes can often be carried for free, or for a small luggage fee, on the roof of public buses – handy for uphill stretches.
AContact your airline for information about transporting your bike and customs formalities in your home country.
ADelhi’s Jhandewalan Cycle Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; happrox 10am-8pm) has imported and domestic, new and second-hand bikes, and spare parts.
AMountain bikes with reputable brands that include Hero and Atlas generally start at around ₹6000.
AReselling is usually fairly easy – ask at local cycle shops or put up an advert on travel noticeboards. If you purchased a new bike and it’s still in reasonable condition, you should be able to recoup around 50% of what you originally paid.
AVehicles drive on the left in India but otherwise road rules are not generally followed.
ACities and national highways can be hazardous places to cycle so, where possible, stick to back roads.
ABe conservative about the distance you expect to cover – an experienced cyclist can manage around 60km to 100km a day on the plains, 40km to 60km on all-weather mountain roads and 40km or less on dirt roads.
For long hauls, transporting your bike or motorbike by train can be a convenient option. Buy a standard train ticket for the journey, then take your bike to the station parcel office with your passport, registration papers, driver’s licence and insurance documents. If you're transporting a motorbike, you need to empty the petrol tank beforehand. Packing-wallahs will wrap your bike in protective sacking for around ₹100 to ₹200 and you must fill out various forms and pay the shipping fee, which varies according to the route and train type – plus an insurance fee of 1% of the declared value of the bike. Bring the same paperwork to collect your bike from the goods office at the other end. If the bike is left waiting at the destination for more than 24 hours, you’ll pay a storage fee of around ₹100 per day.
Scheduled ferries connect mainland India to the Andaman Islands, with departures to Port Blair from Chennai, Kolkata and Visakhapatnam; see www.andamans.gov.in.
Between October and May, there are cruise packages from Kochi (Kerala) to the Lakshadweep islands. There's also a popular day-long canal ferry between Kollam and Alleppey.
There are also numerous shorter ferry services across rivers, from chain pontoons to coracles and various boat cruises.
Buses go almost everywhere in India and are the only way to get around many mountainous areas. They tend to be the cheapest way to travel. Services are fast and frequent.
Roads in mountainous or curvy terrain can be perilous; buses are often driven with wilful abandon, and accidents are always a risk.
Avoid night buses unless there’s no alternative: driving conditions are more hazardous and drivers may be inebriated or overtired.
All buses make snack and toilet stops (some more frequently than others), providing a break but possibly adding hours to journey times.
Shared jeeps complement the bus service in many mountain areas.
State-owned and private bus companies both offer several types of buses, graded loosely as ‘ordinary’, 'semi-deluxe', 'deluxe' or 'super deluxe'. These are usually open to interpretation, and the exact grade of luxury offered in a particular class varies.
Ordinary buses tend to be ageing rattletraps while the deluxe grades range from less decrepit versions of ordinary buses to flashy Volvo buses with air-con and reclining seating.
Buses run by the state government are usually more reliable (if there’s a breakdown, another bus will be sent to pick up passengers), and seats can usually be booked up to a month in advance. Many state governments now operate super-deluxe buses.
Travel agencies in many tourist towns offer relatively expensive private two-by-two buses, which tend to leave and terminate at conveniently central stops.
On any bus, try to sit upfront to minimise the bumpy effect of potholes. Never sit directly above the wheels. Earplugs are invaluable on long-distance trips.
The cheapest buses are ‘ordinary’ government buses, but prices vary from state to state.
Add around 50% to the ordinary fare for deluxe services, double the fare for air-conditioning, and triple or quadruple the fare for a two-by-two super-deluxe service.
Rajasthan Roadways offer discounts for female travellers.
Luggage is stored in compartments underneath the bus (sometimes for a small fee) or carried on the roof.
Arrive at least an hour before departure time – some buses cover roof-stored bags with a canvas sheet, making last-minute additions inconvenient/impossible.
If your bags go on the roof, make sure they’re securely locked, and tied to the metal baggage rack – unsecured bags can fall off on rough roads.
Theft is a (minor) risk: watch your bags at snack and toilet stops. Never leave day-packs or valuables unattended inside the bus.
Most deluxe buses can be booked in advance at the bus station, travel agencies, and online at the portals Cleartrip (www.cleartrip.com), Makemytrip (www.makemytrip.com), and Redbus (www.redbus.in).
Reservations are rarely possible on ‘ordinary’ buses; travellers can be left behind in the mad rush for a seat.
To secure a seat, send a travelling companion ahead to claim some space, or pass a book or article of clothing through an open window to bag an empty seat.
If you board a bus midway through its journey, you may have to stand until a seat becomes free.
Many buses only depart when full – passengers might suddenly leave yours to join one that looks nearer to departing.
Many bus stations have a separate women’s queue (not always obvious when signs are in Hindi and men join the melee). but women also have an unspoken right to elbow their way to the front of any bus queue.
Few people bother with self-drive car hire – not only because of the hair-raising driving conditions, but also because hiring a car with driver is potentially affordable in India, particularly if several people share the cost. Hertz (www.hertz.com) is one of the few international companies with representatives in India.
Most towns have taxi stands or car-hire companies where you can arrange short or long tours.
Not all hire cars are licensed to travel beyond their home state. Those that are will pay extra state taxes, which are added to the hire charge.
Ask for a driver who speaks some English and knows the region you intend visiting. Try to see the car and meet the driver before paying anything.
A wide range of cars now ply as taxis. From a proletarian Tata Indica hatchback to a comfy Toyota Innova SUV, there's a model to suit every pocket.
Hire charges for multiday trips cover the driver’s meals and accommodation, and drivers should make their own sleeping and eating arrangements.
It's essential to set the ground rules from day one; politely but firmly let the driver know that you’re boss to avoid difficulties later.
Car hire costs depend on the distance and the terrain (driving on mountain roads uses more petrol, hence the higher cost).
One-way trips usually cost the same as return ones (to cover the petrol and driver charges for getting back).
Hire charges vary from state to state. Some taxi unions set a maximum time limit or a maximum kilometre distance for day trips – if you go over, you’ll have to pay extra. Prices also vary according to the make and model of the taxi.
To avoid misunderstandings, get in writing what you’ve been promised (quotes should include petrol, sightseeing stops, all your chosen destinations, and meals and accommodation for the driver). If a driver asks you for money for petrol en route because he is short of cash, get receipts for reimbursement later. If you're travelling by the kilometre, check the odometer reading before you set out so as to avoid confusions later.
For sightseeing day trips around a single city, expect to pay upwards of ₹1400/1800 for a non-aircon/air-con car with an eight-hour, 80km limit per day (extra charges apply for longer trips). For multiday trips, operators usually peg a 250km minimum running distance per day and charge around ₹8/10 per km for a non-air-con/air-con car, for anything over this.
A tip is customary at the end of your journey; at least ₹150 to ₹200 per day is fair.
In Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh, Arunachal Pradesh and Sikkim, the Border Roads Organisation (BRO) builds 'roads in the sky', including some of the world’s highest passes accessible by car. Risking life and limb to keep the roads open, the BRO has a bewitching turn of phrase when it comes to driver warnings, including:
ALife is short, don't make it shorter.
AIt is not a rally, enjoy the valley.
AAfter whisky, driving risky.
ABe gentle on my curves.
ABetter to be late than to be the late Mr.
Hitching is never entirely safe, and not recommended. Travellers who hitch should understand that they are taking a small but serious risk. However, for a negotiable fee, truck drivers supplement the bus service in some remote areas. As drivers rarely speak English, you may have difficulty explaining where you wish to go, and working out a fair price to pay. Be aware that truck drivers have a reputation for driving under the influence of alcohol. Women are strongly advised against hitching. Always use your instincts.
Buses, cycle-rickshaws, autorickshaws, taxis, boats and urban trains provide transport around India’s cities.
Costs for public transport vary from town to town.
For any transport without a fixed fare, agree on the price before you start your journey and make sure that it covers your luggage and every passenger.
Even where meters exist, drivers may refuse to use them, demanding an elevated ‘fixed’ fare; bargain hard. Fares usually increase at night (by up to 100%) and some drivers charge a few rupees extra for luggage.
Carry plenty of small bills for taxi and rickshaw fares as drivers rarely have change.
In some places, taxi/autorickshaw drivers are involved in the commission racket.
Apps such as Uber and Ola Cabs have transformed local transport, as if you have a smartphone you can call a taxi or auto and the fare is electronically calculated – no arguments.
Similar to the tuk-tuks of Southeast Asia, the Indian autorickshaw is a three-wheeled motorised contraption with a tin or canvas roof and sides, usually with room for two passengers (although you’ll often see many more squeezed in) and limited luggage.
They are also referred to as autos, scooters and riks.
Autorickshaws are mostly cheaper than taxis and usually have a meter, although getting it turned on can be a challenge. You can call autos via the Ola Taxi and Auto app (www.olacabs.com), which electronically calculates your fare when you finish the journey – no more haggling! Flagfall is around ₹25, then it's ₹8 to ₹14 per km.
Travelling by auto is great fun but, thanks to the open windows, can be noisy and hot (or severely cold!).
In some cities there are larger electric rickshaws, which are shared and thus cheaper but you'll have to be going in the same direction as the other passengers.
Tempos and vikrams (large tempos) are outsized autorickshaws with room for more passengers, shuttling on fixed routes for a fixed fare.
In country areas, you may also see the fearsome-looking ‘three-wheeler’ – a crude tractor-like tempo with a front wheel on an articulated arm – or the Magic, a cute minivan that can take in up to a dozen passengers.
Various kinds of local boats offer transport across and down rivers in India, from big car ferries to wooden canoes and wicker coracles. Most of the larger boats carry bicycles and motorcycles for a fee.
Urban buses range from fume-belching, human-stuffed mechanical monsters that travel at breakneck speed to sanitised air-conditioned vehicles with comfortable seating and smoother ride quality. In any case, it’s usually far more convenient to opt for an autorickshaw or taxi, as they are quicker and more frequent.
A cycle-rickshaw is a pedal cycle with two rear wheels, supporting a bench seat for passengers. Most have a canopy that can be raised in wet weather or lowered to provide extra space for luggage.
Fares must be agreed upon in advance – speak to locals to get an idea of what is a fair price for the distance you intend to travel.
Kolkata is the last bastion of the hand-pulled rickshaw, known as the tana rickshaw. This is a hand-cart on two wheels pulled directly by the rickshaw-wallah.
Most towns have taxis, and these are usually metered, however, getting drivers to use the meter can be a hassle. To avoid fare-setting shenanigans, use prepaid taxis where possible. Apps such as Uber and Ola, or radio cabs, are the most efficient option in larger cities.
Major Indian airports and train stations have prepaid-taxi and radio-cab booths. Here, you can book a taxi, even long distance, for a fixed price (which will include baggage) and thus avoid commission scams. Hold onto your receipt until you reach your destination, as proof of payment.
Radio cabs cost marginally more than prepaid taxis, but are air-conditioned and manned by the company's chauffeurs. Cabs have electronic, receipt-generating fare meters and are fitted with GPS units, so the company can monitor the vehicle's movement around town. These minimise chances of errant driving or unreasonable demands for extra cash by the driver afterward.
Smaller airports and stations may have prepaid autorickshaw booths instead.
Getting a metered ride is only half the battle. Meters are almost always outdated, so fares are calculated using a combination of the meter reading and a complicated ‘fare adjustment card’. Predictably, this system is open to abuse. To get a rough estimate of fares in advance, try the portal www.taxiautofare.com.
In some towns, tongas (horse-drawn two-wheelers) and victorias (horse-drawn carriages) still operate. Kolkata has a tram network, and Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata and Chennai, among other centres, have suburban trains that leave from ordinary train stations.
Long-distance motorcycle touring is hugely popular in India. However, it can be quite an undertaking; there are some popular motorcycle tours for those who don’t want the rigmarole of going it alone.
The most preferred starting point for motorcycle tours is Delhi, as well as Manali, and popular destinations include Rajasthan, South India and Ladakh. Weather is an important factor and you should check for the best times to visit different areas. To cross from neighbouring countries, check the latest regulations and paperwork requirements from the relevant diplomatic mission.
To hire a motorcycle in India, technically you’re required to have a valid international drivers’ permit in addition to your domestic licence. In tourist areas, some places may rent out a motorcycle without asking for a driving permit/licence, but you won’t be covered by insurance in the event of an accident, and may also face a fine.
The classic way to motorcycle around India is on a Royal Enfield, built to both vintage and modern specs. Fully manual, these are easy to repair (parts can be found almost everywhere in India). On the other hand, Enfields are often less reliable than many of the newer, Japanese-designed bikes.
Plenty of places rent out motorcycles for local trips and longer tours. Japanese- and Indian-made bikes in the 100cc to 150cc range are cheaper than the big 350cc to 500cc Enfields.
As security, you’ll need to leave a large cash deposit (ensure you get a receipt that stipulates the refundable amount) or your passport/air ticket. We strongly advise not leaving these documents, in particular your passport, which you need for hotel check-ins and if stopped by the police.
For three weeks’ hire, a 500cc Enfield costs from ₹25,000 to ₹28,000; a 350cc costs ₹18,000 to ₹22,000. The price will include accessories, spare parts, tolls required for the journey and an invaluable free maintenance course.
As for accessories, helmets are available for ₹1000 to ₹5500, with the best Indian brand 'Studs' coming in many different models. Extras (panniers, luggage racks, protection bars, rear-view mirrors, lockable fuel caps, petrol filters, extra tools) are also easy to come by.
The following dealers come recommended:
Lalli Motorbike Exports ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-28750869; www.lallisinghadventures.com; 1740-A/55 Hari Singh Nalwa St, Abdul Aziz Rd; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; mKarol Bagh) Run by the knowledgeable Lalli Singh, this Delhi-based outfit sells and rents out Enfields and parts, and buyers get a crash course in running and maintaining these lovable but temperamental machines. Lalli can also recommend other reputable dealers in the area.
Anu Auto Works Manali-based; rents Enfields and takes tours over high Himalayan passes to Ladakh and Spiti from June to September. Typical Enfield rental rates are ₹1400 to ₹1500 per day for a 500cc, ₹1200 to ₹1300 per day for 350cc. Discounts usually available for rentals of about 18 days or more.
Allibhai Premji Tyrewalla Sells new and second-hand motorcycles with a buy-back optioni in Mumbai.
Rajasthan Auto Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0141-2568074, 9829188064; www.royalenfieldsalim.com; Sanganeri Gate, Sanjay Bazaar; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) Comes recommended as a place for hiring, fixing or purchasing a motorcycle in Jaipur.
Kerala Bike Tours Organises motorcycle tours around Kerala and the Western Ghats and hires out touring quality Enfield Bullets (from US$155 per week) for serious riders with unlimited mileage, full insurance and free recovery/maintenance options.
For longer tours, purchasing a new motorcycle may sound like a great idea. However, selling motor vehicles to foreigners comes with reams of complicated paperwork, foreigners are not allowed to register vehicles in their names, and in many situations, procuring a motorcycle might not be possible or feasible at all.
Second-hand bikes are widely available, though, and paperwork is simpler than for a new machine. All privately owned vehicles over 15 years old are banned from Delhi roads.
To find a second-hand motorcycle, check travellers’ noticeboards and ask motorcycle mechanics and other bikers.
A well looked-after second-hand 350cc Enfield costs ₹65,000 to ₹115,000. A good condition 500cc with UCI Engine ranges between ₹95,000 to ₹140,000. You will also have to pay for insurance.
There’s plenty of paperwork associated with owning a motorcycle. The process is complicated and time-consuming, so it’s wise to seek advice from the agent selling the bike.
Registration papers are signed by the local registration authority when the bike is first sold; you need these when you buy a second-hand bike.
Foreign nationals cannot change the name on the registration but you must fill out forms for change of ownership and transfer of insurance.
A new registration lasts for 15 years, after which it may be renewed for ₹5000 for five years; make absolutely sure that it states the ‘road-worthiness’ of the vehicle, and that there are no outstanding debts or criminal proceedings associated with the bike. The office of the state transport department where the bike was registered can provide this information.
Only hire a bike that has insurance – if you hit someone without insurance the consequences will be very costly. Reputable companies will include third-party cover in their policies; those that don’t probably aren’t trustworthy.
You must also arrange insurance if you buy a motorcycle (usually you can organise this through the person selling the bike).
Comprehensive insurance for a new Royal Enfield can cost ₹4000 to ₹5000 per year. Insurance for second-hand Royal Enfield may cost from ₹800 to ₹4000, depending on the age of the vehicle.
Petrol and engine oil are widely available in the plains, but petrol stations are rarer in the mountains. If travelling to remote regions, carry enough extra fuel (seek local advice about fuel availability before setting off). At the time of writing, petrol cost around ₹67 per litre in Delhi, but could cost to to three times that in different regions.
Get your machine serviced regularly (particularly older ones). Indian roads and engine vibration work things loose quite quickly.
Check the engine and gearbox oil level regularly (at least every 500km) and clean the oil filter every few thousand kilometres.
Given the road conditions, the chances are you’ll make at least a couple of visits to a puncture-wallah – start your trip with new tyres and carry spanners to remove your own wheels.
It’s a good idea to bring your own protective equipment (jackets, gloves etc).
Given the varied road conditions, India can be challenging for novice riders. Hazards range from cows and chickens crossing the carriageway to broken-down trucks, unruly traffic, pedestrians on the road, and ubiquitous potholes and unmarked speed humps. Rural roads sometimes have grain crops strewn across them to be threshed by passing vehicles – a serious sliding hazard for bikers.
Try not to cover too much territory in one day and never ride in the dark – many vehicles drive without lights, and dynamo-powered motorcycle headlamps are useless at low revs while negotiating around potholes.
On busy national highways, expect to average 40 to 50km/h without stops; on winding back roads and dirt tracks this can drop to 10km/h.
Dozens of companies offer organised motorcycle tours around India with a support vehicle, mechanic and guide. Here are a few well-established companies:
Lalli Singh Tours (www.lallisinghadventures.com)
Blazing Trails (%05603-666788; www.blazingtrailstours.com)
World on Wheels (www.worldonwheels.tours/)
H-C Travel (www.hctravel.com)
Himalayan Roadrunners (www.ridehigh.com)
Indian Motorcycle Adventure (www.indianmotorcycleadventures.com)
Moto Discovery (www.motodiscovery.com)
Royal Expeditions (%011-26238545; http://royalexpeditions.com)
In mountain areas shared jeeps supplement the bus services, charging similar fixed fares.
Although nominally designed for five to six passengers, most shared jeeps squeeze in more. The seats beside and immediately behind the driver are more expensive than the cramped bench seats at the rear.
Jeeps only leave when full; people often bail out of a half-full jeep and pile into one with more passengers that's ready to depart. Drivers will leave immediately if you pay for all the empty seats and 'reserve' a vehicle for yourself.
Jeeps run from jeep stands and ‘passenger stations’ at the junctions of major roads; ask locals to point you in the right direction.
In some states, jeeps are known as ‘sumos’ after the Tata Sumo, a popular vehicle.
Travel sickness, particularly on winding mountain roads, may mean you are asked to give up your window seat to queasy fellow passengers.
Travelling by train is a quintessential Indian experience. Trains offer a smoother ride than buses and are especially recommended for long journeys that include overnight travel. India’s rail network is one of the largest and busiest in the world and Indian Railways is the largest utility employer on earth, with roughly 1.5 million workers. There are almost 7000 train stations scattered across the country.
We’ve listed useful trains but there are hundreds more. The best way of sourcing updated railway information is to use relevant internet sites such as Indian Railways (http://enquiry.indianrail.gov.in) and the excellent India Rail Info (http://indiarailinfo.com), with added offline browsing support, as well as the user-friendly Erail (erail.in). There’s also Trains at a Glance (₹45), available at many train station bookstands and better bookshops/newsstand; however, it’s published annually so it’s not as up to date as websites. Nevertheless, it offers comprehensive timetables covering all the main lines.
You can book through a travel agency or hotel (for a commission), or in person at the train station. Another hopefully straightforward way is to book online through IRCTC (www.irctc.co.in; accepts Mastercard & Visa), the e-ticketing division of Indian Railways, or portals such as Cleartrip (www.cleartrip.com), Make My Trip (www.makemytrip.com), Yatra (www.yatra.com) and Redbus (bus only; www.redbus.com) are also useful; you'll usually need an Indian mobile number, though you may be able to enter a random number then use an email. Man at Seat 61 (www.seat61.com) has lots of good information, and explains in detail how to register an IRCTC account if you don't have an Indian mobile number.
However, online booking of train tickets has its share of glitches: travellers have reported problems with registering themselves on some portals and using credit cards. Big stations often have English-speaking staff who can help with reservations. At smaller stations, the stationmaster and his deputy usually speak English. It’s also worth approaching tourist-office staff if you need advice.
You can only book six train tickets online per calendar month, and after that you can only buy them in person. If you book online and accept a waitlisted ticket and it isn’t confirmed before the train leaves its destination, the money is refunded to the credit card and the ticket is worthless.
Get a reservation slip from the information window, fill in the name of the departure station, destination station, the class you want to travel and the name and number of the train. Join the long queue for the ticket window where your ticket will be printed. Women should take advantage of the separate women’s queue – if there isn’t one, go to the front of the regular queue.
Larger cities and major tourist centres have an International Tourist Bureau, which sells tourist quota seats on certain classes of train, and allows you to book tickets in relative peace.
Go to www.indiarailinfo.com or erail.in and type in the name of the two destinations. You’ll promptly get a list of every train (with the name, number, arrival/departure times and journey details) plying the route, as well as fares for each available class.
Bookings open up to 120 days before departure and you must make a reservation for chair-car, executive-chair-car, sleeper, 1AC, 2AC and 3AC carriages. No reservations are required for general (2nd class) compartments; you have to grab seats here the moment the train pulls in.
Trains are always busy so it’s wise to book as far in advance as possible, especially for overnight journeys. There may be additional services to certain destinations during major festivals but it’s still worth booking well in advance.
Reserved tickets show your seat/berth and carriage number. Carriage numbers are written on the side of the train (station staff and porters can point you in the right direction). A list of names and berths is posted on the side of each reserved carriage.
Refunds are available on any ticket, even after departure, with a penalty – rules are complicated, check when you book.
Trains can be delayed at any stage of the journey; to avoid stress, factor some leeway into your plans.
A special (albeit small) tourist quota is set aside for foreign tourists travelling between popular stations. These seats can only be booked at dedicated reservation offices in major cities, and you need to show your passport and visa as ID. Tickets can be paid for in rupees (some offices may ask to see foreign exchange certificates – ATM receipts will suffice).
Indian Railways holds back a small number of tickets on key trains and releases them at 10am one day before the train is due to depart. A charge of ₹10 to ₹500 is added to each ticket price. First AC tickets are excluded from the scheme.
Even when a train is fully booked, Indian Railways sells a handful of seats in each class as ‘Reservation Against Cancellation’ (RAC). This means that if you have an RAC ticket and someone cancels before the departure date, you will get his or her seat (or berth). You’ll have to check the reservation list at the station on the day of travel to see if you’ve been allocated a confirmed seat/berth. Even if no one cancels, you can still board the train as an RAC ticket holder and travel without a seat.
If the RAC quota is maxed out as well, you will be handed a waitlisted ticket (marked WL). This means that if there are enough cancellations, you may eventually move up the order to land a confirmed berth, or at least an RAC seat. Check your booking status at rbs.indianrail.gov.in/pnr_Enq.html by entering your ticket’s PNR number. You can't board the train on a waitlisted ticket, but a refund is available – ask the ticket office about your chances.
Fares are calculated by distance and class of travel; Rajdhani and Shatabdi trains are slightly more expensive, but the price includes meals. Most air-conditioned carriages have a catering service (meals are brought to your seat). In unreserved classes it’s a good idea to carry portable snacks. Male/female seniors (those over 60/58) get 40/50% off all fares in all classes on all types of train. Children below the age of six travel free, those aged between six and 12 are charged half price, up to 300km.
Express Train Fares in Rupees
| Distance (km) | 1AC | 2AC | 3AC | First Class | Chair Car (CC) | Second (II) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 100 | 1047 | 613 | 428 | 262 | 205 | 48 |
| 200 | 1047 | 613 | 428 | 412 | 282 | 73 |
| 300 | 1047 | 613 | 561 | 558 | 378 | 103 |
| 400 | 1460 | 843 | 591 | 690 | 467 | 128 |
| 500 | 1794 | 1058 | 733 | 843 | 577 | 151 |
| 1000 | 2940 | 1708 | 1352 | 1371 | 931 | 258 |
| 1500 | 3787 | 2188 | 1487 | 1753 | 1189 | 334 |
| 2000 | 4620 | 2659 | 1797 | 2127 | 1443 | 412 |