CHAPTER FOURTEEN

Odds and Ends

Cameras

Cameras—especially DSLRs (Digital Single Lens Reflex cameras)—are one of the most sensitive items a hiker is likely to carry, not to mention a huge investment. This section will teach you how to handle your camera in the field (even in really nasty weather) and how to give it a good cleaning once you get back home.

TIPS FROM THE FIELD: CAMERAS

1. Carry your camera in a padded case to guard against scratches, dirt, and sweat.

2. If your camera takes lens filters, use a neutral skylight/UV filter to prevent lens scratches.

3. If you need to change a lens in the field, do it quickly, and face away from wind or rain to keep the camera’s innards clean and protected.

4. When hiking in deluge conditions or serious sandstorms, use a raincover on your case, or store the camera inside your pack.

5. If your case does get wet, sun-dry the interior as soon as possible to prevent humidity from being forced into the camera by external heat.

6. Dirty cases just force grit and oils into your camera. Machine-wash them regularly on gentle cycle, no soap, with zips open. Let them air-dry overnight or longer.

7. During trail rests put the camera case on top of your backpack to keep dirt off the case.

8. Around camp hang your camera case off a tripod or tree branch.

9. For dramatic photos in wind or sandstorms, make an impromptu cover with zip-top bags and tape. Vent it regularly, or tuck a few desiccant packets inside to prevent condensation.

10. If your camera gets seriously wet, you can try to save it by quickly putting it in a zip-top bag with desiccant packets and/or dry paper towels or toilet tissue. Then suck all the air out and seal it. Moisture will (hopefully) be drawn out of the camera.

11. If lenses get interior condensation, take the lens cap off and set them facing straight at the sun. In most conditions the internal fog will clear in minutes.

CLEANING YOUR CAMERA

All cameras—DSLRs or point-and-shoots—need maintenance. Here’s how the pros methodically clean their cameras, so they’re always ready for the next big sunset.

Step 1: Wipe off the camera’s exterior using a damp, lint-free cloth like a clean, well-used cotton T-shirt or bandanna.

Step 2: Remove LCD screen and eyepiece covers and clean beneath them.

Step 3: Use a damp cotton swab to remove grit from complex seams and cracks.

Step 4: Extend zoom lenses to expose internal barrel parts and clean beneath them.

Step 5: Clean grit and grease off lens and camera body mounts, and the electrical contacts on them, using a damp cloth.

Step 6: To clean lenses, first blow off as much grit as possible using a squeeze bulb or canned air. Don’t neglect the rear elements, which are more important to image quality than the lens front. Then use a lens brush or soft camel-hair art paintbrush to remove more stubborn particles.

Step 7: Wipe a moistened microfiber cloth (unlike cotton, microfiber won’t scratch the lens) gently around the lens elements. Examine lens elements in full sunlight and repeat until they’re smudge-free.

Step 8: Lens caps get very dirty over time, contaminating the lenses they were designed to protect. Clean them using water and cotton swabs.

GEARHEAD PROJECT: MAKE A SURVIVAL BRACELET

Not only do these bracelets look cool and make great gifts for your favorite hiker, they’re pretty smart, too, and a great wrist adornment for any DIY gearhead (which I assume you are, or you wouldn’t be reading this book). In an emergency you can use the paracord for lashings, tourniquets, shoelaces, snares, tying splints, or, if you tease out the fibers, even fishing line or sewing thread. To make a bracelet, you’ll need scissors, a lighter, a tape measure, and 10 feet of 550-weight paracord (choose a color you like).

Step 1: Cut a 2-foot length of cord, melt the ends, and fold it in half. Wrap the doubled-up cord around your wrist. Pull the tag ends through the loop. Tie an overhand knot with the ends. Adjust the knot so you can slip a finger between the cord and your wrist.

Step 2: Lay the remaining 8 feet of cord in front of you horizontally. Now place the base cord, with the loop at the top, over the middle of the 8-foot cord, forming a T.

Step 3: Make a cobra knot. To start, take the cord on the right and bring it over the top of the base cord to form a Z.

Step 4: Take the left cord and thread it down through the loop on the left side of the base cord. Go under the base cord and up inside the loop on the right. Pull tight.

Step 5: Make sure the overhand knot will fit through the small loop at the top of the base cord. Next, starting on the left, reverse the process. Begin by, this time, making an S.

Step 6: To finish reversing the step, bring the right cord down through the loop to the right of the base cord. Go under the base cord and up inside the loop on the left. Pull tight.

Step 7: You’ve now completed the first cobra knot. Continue making cobra knots until you are about ¼ inch from the stopper knot.

Step 8: Check the fit on your wrist by pushing the stopper knot through the loop at the apex. You can adjust the fit by moving the knot up or down. The bracelet should fit snugly without being too tight. When you’re done, trim all four tag ends and melt them.

Step 9: To wear, push the stopper knot through the loop to hold the bracelet securely on your wrist. If desired, you can substitute wooden toggles, buttons, buckles, and other fastening methods for the knot. To use the cord, simply unweave the bracelet.

Gaiters

These boot-and-ankle protectors really take a beating, especially when used with skis or crampons. But I’ve had the same pair of gaiters for about fifteen years, and they’re still going strong because I’ve taken good care of them. Here’s how:

My favorite gaiters (Outdoor Research Crocs): Fifteen years and still going strong, thanks to bomber fabrics, tough urethane-coated (and replaceable) nylon underfoot straps, and extra-wide swaths of Velcro that form a super-tight seal against the elements.

• Periodically inspect your underfoot straps. Are they fraying? Snip off any loose threads. Are they wearing through or in danger of becoming detached? Most gaiter straps are replaceable. If they attach via buckles, just contact the manufacturer for some replacements that you can install. If they’re sewn on and you’re not confident in your sewing skills (like me), send them back to the manufacturer for a bomber repair job.
• Clean the Velcro. Most gaiters rely on a large swath of Velcro either up the front or down the side of the gaiter. These closures allow for easy on and off, but if the seal isn’t solid, then water can penetrate. If your Velcro gets gunked up (and it will), give it a good cleaning using the technique described in Chapter 2.
• Once a season give them a bath and a good spray with a waterproofing treatment. Chapter 2 has all the details.

Crampons

SHARPENING

Mountaineers rely on the toothy bite of their crampons on ice and snow. But over time, because they’re often used over mixed terrain (snow, ice, and rocks), the teeth wear down and become dull. A periodic sharpening keeps them in good fighting form. You’ll need a standard hand file (do not use any type of grinding wheel, as tempting as it is, because it generates too much heat and can change the temper of the metal) and either a vise grip to hold the crampon still or a leather work glove to protect your holding hand.

Use a long, downward stroke to file both sides of the teeth. Don’t file the broad sides of the teeth, but rather the thin sides that lead to the point. You don’t need to take it down to a super-fine point, which will just wear down quicker, but the teeth should be pointed enough to penetrate ice.

STORING

After a season of use, give your dry crampons a light spray with WD-40 to prevent rust. Store them in a padded case to protect your newly sharpened points.

Climbing Ropes

Not only is a rope a pretty sizable investment, it’s also a critical piece of safety gear that needs some special TLC.

CLEANING

If your rope starts to look grimy or feels gritty, it’s time for a wash. Believe it or not, little dirt particles left on a rope sheath can work their way inside and cause abrasion and premature wear. Fill a big wash basin with cold water and a couple ounces of ReviveX Climbing Rope Cleaner Concentrate (or a mild liquid dish soap). Swish and agitate the rope for about five minutes, then let it sit for another five. Remove the rope and give it a rinse with the garden hose. Let it air-dry uncoiled in a shady place.

TIPS FROM THE FIELD: ROPES

When you’re out in the backcountry, keep these rope-care tips in mind:

• Tread carefully: Avoid stepping on your rope; this works dirt into the fibers and causes undue wear.
• Keep it dry: Ropes lose up to 30 percent of their strength when they’re wet (they regain their strength when dry).
• Coil it: Learn the proper coiling method, so you can carry and store your rope kink-free.
• Avoid the sun: Climbing with your rope on sunny days will do no harm, but don’t use it to rig a line or a long-term belay or toprope and let it bake for days on end. This degrades the materials and weakens the rope.
• Replace them: Ropes don’t last forever. They should be replaced after any big fall or every four to five years with occasional use.

When your rope team gathers up at rest stops, pull your partners in and coil the rope to avoid trips and hang-ups.

One four-ounce bottle of Aquaseal Map Seal will treat three or four topo maps, depending on their size.

Maps

WATERPROOFING

Want to get more miles out of your maps? Whenever possible, keep them stored in a zip-top bag when you’re on the trail. Or waterproof them using Aquaseal Map Seal. Use the included applicator to paint a thin coating of the sealant over one side of the map. Once it gets tacky (in about five minutes), repeat the procedure. When that side is totally dry, flip the map over and repeat on side two. Hang the map from a line, using clothespins or binder clips, and let it cure for seventy-two hours. Then you can fold your map, draw on it with a pencil, refold it, and otherwise use it, without worrying about a few drops of rain.

Sunglasses

SCRATCHES

I’ve tried about a dozen different homespun remedies to remove scratches from sunglass lenses (both glass and polycarbonate)—everything from toothpaste to Brasso to a paste made from ground mustard and vinegar. Bottom line: Nothing works. Once a scratch, always a scratch. The best we can do is not give scratches a chance to happen!

CLEANING AND STORING

We’ve all done it: grabbed the edge of our cotton T-shirt and scrubbed the lenses of our shades with thumb and forefinger. But that’s how you get those little micro-scratches that eventually cloud your expensive lenses. Instead, follow these sunglass care tips (these tips also apply to binoculars, monoculars, or any other optical equipment):

• Do not use any wood-based product (tissue or paper towels) for cleaning. Instead, use a soft, clean chamois or microfiber cloth. Most every new pair of sunglasses comes with one, so use it!
• Always moisten the lenses before cleaning. Lens-cleaning solution is great, but even a few drops of water will do. This prevents any particles from scratching the lens.
• Especially when backpacking, bring a hard-sided case for your shades. On those cloudy days when you don’t need them on your face, they’ll stay safe and sound inside their protective cocoon, which can get tossed into your pack without much thought.

THE 10 ESSENTIALS

Hikers love to debate this classic list, which was designed back in the 1930s by The Mountaineers, a Seattle-based climbing club that to this day leads members on adventures. The purpose of the list was, and still is, to ensure that hikers could react and respond to an accident or emergency and remain safe if forced to spend an unplanned night or two in the wilds. Here’s the list, which should always be part of your arsenal, whether it’s for a day hike or a big, weeklong adventure.

A. Navigation: map and compass or GPS

B. Sun protection: sunglasses and sunscreen

C. Insulation: a warm jacket

D. Illumination: headlamp or flashlight

E. Fire: waterproof matches, lighter, or magnesium fire starter

F. Repair kit: see Chapter 1

G. First-aid supplies

H. Nutrition: extra food

I. Hydration: extra water or the means to treat backcountry water (see Chapter 11)

J. Emergency shelter: bivy sack, tarp, or emergency blanket

LEAVE NO TRACE PRINCIPLES

Everyone knows not to litter in the wilderness, but some boneheads do it anyways. Leave No Trace is a nonprofit group devoted to teaching people how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly—and it goes way beyond littering. Their philosophy entails seven principles, which we should all engrave into our personal backcountry ethic.

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

• Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you plan to visit.
• Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and emergencies.
• Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use.
• Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of four to six.
• Repackage food to minimize waste.
• Use a map and compass to eliminate the use of marking paint, rock cairns, or flagging.

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

• Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses, or snow.
• Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet from lakes and streams.
• Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary. In popular areas:
  • Concentrate use on existing trails and campsites.
  • Keep campsites small.
  • Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent.
• In pristine areas:
  • Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails.
  • Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy.
  • Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.

3. Dispose of Waste Properly

• Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter.
• Deposit solid human waste in cat holes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, campsites, and trails. Cover and disguise the cat hole when finished.
• Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.
• To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.

4. Leave What You Find

• Preserve the past: Examine, but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts.
• Leave rocks, plants, and other natural objects as you find them.
• Avoid introducing or transporting nonnative species.
• Do not build structures or furniture or dig trenches.

5. Minimize Campfire Impacts

• Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the backcountry. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light.
• Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans, or mound fires.
• Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand.
• Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.

6. Respect Wildlife

• Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not follow or approach them.
• Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviors, and exposes them to predators and other dangers.
• Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely.
• Control pets at all times, or leave them at home.
• Avoid wildlife during sensitive times: mating, nesting, raising young, and during the winter.

7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors

• Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience.
• Be courteous. Yield to other users on the trail.
• Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock.
• Take breaks and camp away from trails and other visitors.
• Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises.

For more information on this great organization, visit its website www.LNT.org.