Heart of The Artichoke

Contents

A Little Disclaimer

The Cuisine in My Head

Kitchen Rituals

1. Me and Aunt Jemima

2. Peeling an Apple

3. Pasta for One

4. Eating Oatmeal

5. Beans on Toast

6. Harissa to Go

7. Hooray for Ziploc Bags

8. Raw Artichokes for Lunch

9. Ham Sandwich in a French Bar

10. Making a Little Jam

11. Mexican Breakfast

12. Herring and Potatoes

13. A Bowl of Tripe

14. A Batch of Spanish Chorizo

Asparagus-Scrambled Eggs

Fork-Mashed Potatoes

Spring Lamb with Rosemary

Dandelion Greens Salad

Strawberries with Sugar and Cream

Reclaiming Arugula

Fennel Soup with a Green Swirl

Pork Scaloppine with Lemon, Capers, and Chopped Arugula

Zucchini Pancakes

Italian Spice Cake

In a Sicilian Kitchen

Pasta “Timballo” with Fresh Ricotta

Fried Puffs with Honey (Sfince)

The Flavor of Smoke

Tea-Smoked-Chicken Salad with Ginger Vinaigrette

Sesame Peanut Candy

Feeling Vietnamese

Vegetable Rice Paper Rolls

Pho (Vietnamese Beef Soup)

Black Sticky Rice Pudding with Coconut Cream

Spices for a Summer Night

Pita with Za’atar and Olive Oil

Tomatoes and Olives with Coriander Vinaigrette

Spicy Lamb Burgers with Grilled Eggplant

Cucumbers and Yogurt

Dinner on the Italian Side

Zucchini Antipasto with Fresh Mozzarella

Spaghetti with Squid and White Beans

Frozen Cappuccino

Digestivo with Fresh Berries

The Promise of Old Bread

Halibut Crudo with Lemon Oil

Layered Tomato and Bread Salad

Fresh Peach Ice Cream

How to Fry Fish

Stand-Around Melon with Mint

Fish Fry with Piquant Tarragon Mayonnaise

Green Bean Salad with Pickled Shallots

Salt-Roasted New Potatoes

Lemon Pound Cake with Peaches and Berries

Parsley Goes with Everything

Chilled Tomato Soup with Basil

Flat-Roasted Chicken with Rosemary

Rice Salad with Sweet Herbs

Lemon Verbena Bavarian Cream

Cooking American

Shrimp “Cocktail” in a Glass

Peppery Chicken Wings

Fried Green Tomatoes

Spicy Cabbage Slaw

Molasses Pecan Squares

Flatbread Wisdom

Rosemary and Scallion Focaccia

Sweet Pepper and Cauliflower Salad

Raviolone with Butternut Squash in Butter and Sage

Figs, Grapes, and Vin Santo

Ripeness of Red Chiles

Platter of Jicama, Avocado, Radishes, and Oranges

Slow-Cooked Carne Adovada with Hominy

Mexican Chocolate Ice Cream

Nearly Vegetarian

Vegetables à la Grecque

Wild Mushroom Ragout with Ziti

Chard and Ricotta Tart

The Trouble with Ham

Hors d’Oeuvres Variés: Roasted Beet Salad, Julienned Carrot Salad, and Leeks Vinaigrette

Petit Salé with Braised Cabbage

Quince Slices (and Beyond)

Walnuts and a Few Cheeses

Cooking for Tomorrow Today

Terrine of Pork and Duck Liver

Duck Confit in the Oven with Crispy Panfried Potatoes

Celery, Radish, and Watercress Salad with Walnut Oil

Spiced Pears in Red Wine

Dead-of-Winter Dinner from the Supermarket

Romaine Hearts with Shaved Parmigiano and Lemon Dressing

Panfried Steak with Steak Sauce

Classic Potato Gratin

Broiled Pineapple with Rum

Savory Baked Eggs in Filo

Fragrant Lamb with Prunes and Almonds

Blood Oranges and Pomegranates with Orange Flower Water

Of Buckwheat and Mussels

Buckwheat Galettes with Ham and Cheese

Mussels Marinière, Brittany-Style

Bring Back Tongue

Greens on Toast

Bollito Misto of Tongue and Brisket with Two Sauces

Walnut and Pine Nut Drops

Simple Feasts for a Long Table

A Perfect Suckling Pig

Artichoke Antipasto

Roast Suckling Pig Italian-Style with Roman Potatoes

Salad of Fennel and Bitter Greens

Almond Cookies and a Bowl of Cherries

How to Spice a Goat

Lobster Salpicón with Avocado

Long-Simmered Cabrito

Inside-Out Mangoes

Turkey Deconstructed

Roasted and Braised Turkey with Gravy

Chicken Liver and Apple Stuffing

Spicy Cranberry Chutney

Auspicious and Delicious

Hair of the Dog, Salty Dog, and Other Grapefruit Drinks

Quick Bread-and-Butter Pickles

Crab-Stuffed Deviled Eggs

Black-eyed Peas with Ham Hocks and Bacon

Lemon Curd Shortbread with Candied Kumquat

Acknowledgments