CHAPTER 6 SALADS

In the meat-driven parrilla culture of Argentina, the salad can often be somewhat of an afterthought. Frequently served as a side to beef or other proteins from the grill, salads rarely are more complex than one or two types of crisp lettuce and the occasional tomato or onion. Nonetheless, we appreciate seeing them on the table, because there is nothing quite like the relief and delight your mouth gets when switching from hearty grilled meats to crisp, cooling vegetables.

We say “vegetables” because, to us, salads don’t necessarily need to be made of greens. In fact, the characteristics of a great salad can vary depending on the time of year, as well as what else you’re serving in the meal. The best versions do have a few things in common, however. They offer punch, whether it’s delivered through bracingly bitter greens or a generous dose of acidity from citrus or vinegar. Secondly, salads offer the power to relieve the palate and provide contrast to the other items on the table, be they grilled meats or platters of warm vegetables or grains. And finally, the best salads also offer a variety of textures and contrasts within themselves, from juicy to crunchy, sweet to bitter, and beyond.

There is an essential leap between even the most perfect-looking produce and a delicious salad, and that is a sensational dressing. Whether you’re going Italian countryside–style with little more than a bottle of really good olive oil and salt, or you’ve whipped up a more inspired or complex vinaigrette, ultimately a great dressing is one of the main factors that transforms simple ingredients into something more. Many qualities are in play here: creaminess, saltiness, acidity, and sweetness.

As you’ll see in the recipes that follow, we love to add a little something special to our salads—a garnish that might be considered luxurious, some cooked elements, or an ingredient that’s not what you might typically use in your everyday repertoire. A little flair is worth it in the end. Because, to us, the measure of a great bowl of greens is simply this: how much fun have you added to it?

with miso-lemon dressing, feta, and crispy red onion rings

We have no problem admitting that we really dig Caesar salads. To capture the unabashed creaminess and pungent characteristics of a Caesar while taking the flavor to a new or unexpected place, we base the dressing here on miso paste, which has salty, fermented flavors, then mellow it out with a house-made mayonnaise and brighten it up with lemon juice and zest. The dressing recipe makes double what you’ll need, and remainders keep for at least 2 weeks in the fridge. It tastes equally amazing on a spinach or romaine salad, or used as a glaze or marinade for chicken or fish before grilling.

As far as salad “greens” go, kale and radicchio are fibrous, chewy, and typically not very juicy on their own. But their intense flavors and textures stand up well to creamy dressings.

If you don’t have time to fry the onion rings or just want to keep it simple, thinly sliced red onions are a tasty alternative; just soak them in water for a few minutes before adding to soften their harsh bite.

SERVES 4 TO 6 AS A STARTER OR SIDE DISH

1 large bunch curly kale, stems removed, leaves torn into bite-size pieces (about 8 cups)

2 small heads radicchio, torn into bite-size pieces (about 8 cups)

¾ cup Miso-Lemon Dressing, plus more as needed

4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup)

2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives

Crispy Red Onion Rings (or substitute thinly sliced red onion)

Combine the kale and radicchio in a large serving bowl and drizzle with ¾ cup of the dressing; toss with your hands, scrunching up the kale with your fingers and massaging the dressing into it. Taste and add more dressing, if desired, and continue tossing until evenly coated.

Divide among plates or serve family-style. Garnish with the feta, chives, and onion rings.

MISO-LEMON DRESSING

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

In a large bowl, whisk together the miso, lemon juice, lemon zest, and garlic until well combined. Whisk in the mayonnaise and pepper until the mixture is smooth. Cover and keep chilled until ready to use, up to 2 weeks.

CRISPY RED ONION RINGS

MAKES ENOUGH TO GARNISH 6 SALADS (ABOUT 2 CUPS)

2 to 3 cups neutral-flavored vegetable oil, for shallow frying

1 cup well-shaken buttermilk

1 small red onion, sliced into ⅛-inch-thick rings

1 cup rice flour

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pour the oil into a pot (it should measure 1½ to 2 inches up the sides of the pot); heat over medium heat until the temperature registers 375°F on a deep-fry thermometer.

Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a plate with paper towels.

Pour the buttermilk into a bowl and add the onions; separate the rings with your fingers, swirling them until well-coated.

Pour the flour into another bowl. Transfer the onion rings to the flour in small batches, tossing to coat evenly. Transfer the rings, tapping off any excess flour, to a baking sheet or large platter.

Carefully add six to eight onion rings at a time into the oil and cook until lightly browned on one side, 30 to 60 seconds. Turn quickly and gently using tongs, chopsticks, or a slotted metal spoon; cook for 30 to 60 seconds more. Place on the prepared plate to drain any excess oil and season immediately with salt and pepper. Fry the remaining onion rings. Keep warm in the oven until ready to use.

Reminiscent of the straightforward, unfussy green salads that we were so grateful to have been served alongside large platters of meat in Argentina and Uruguay, this version is perfect for those times when you just need something light, fresh, and easy to serve with a meal—especially a rich one. In the summer, you can add additional fresh vegetables such as tomato or cucumber, or embellish the greens with fresh herbs such as chervil, cilantro, basil, or chives.

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

8 cups loosely packed baby lettuce leaves, such as Little Gem, red or green leaf, or baby romaine (8 ounces total)

¼ onion, halved through the stem and thinly sliced against the grain

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

Freshly ground black pepper

1 avocado, halved, pitted, and peeled

In a large bowl, combine the lettuces and onion and drizzle with the oil and vinegar. Season with the salt and a couple pinches of pepper and toss gently to combine and distribute seasoning. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

Cut the avocado into ¾-inch pieces. Serve the salad in a large serving bowl or divide among four individual bowls or plates. Garnish with the avocado and serve immediately.

with mozzarella milanesa and fried anchovy vinaigrette

In Latin America just as in Italy, Milanesa-style is a preparation you often find with meats—pounded thin, lightly breaded, then pan-fried. We love that tradition, but since we’re so smitten with grilling our meats, we wanted to adapt the Milanesa technique to other ingredients, and a ball of fresh mozzarella seemed the perfect fit.

The salad it sits on is a flattering accompaniment for grilled seafood, lamb, poultry, and steak. It covers the salad must-haves: crunch (almonds), creaminess (avocados), and sweet-spiciness (pickled peppers).

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER, SIDE DISH, OR SMALL MAIN DISH

To make the vinaigrette, in a medium nonreactive pot over medium-low heat, add ¼ cup of the olive oil, the garlic, and the red pepper flakes; cook until the garlic is lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the anchovies and stir until mostly dissolved, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the vinegar and lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Season generously with salt and pepper and remove from the heat. Whisk in the remaining ½ cup olive oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Let cool to room temperature before using. (At this point, the vinaigrette can be refrigerated for up to 10 days; bring back to room temperature before using.)

To make the mozzarella Milanesa, dry the mozzarella on a paper towel for about 5 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk the egg and milk. Add the flour, salt, and pepper, and whisk just until smooth. In a separate bowl, combine the bread crumbs and the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Working with one piece at a time, completely coat the mozzarella in the egg mixture. Transfer to the bowl of bread crumbs, rolling to coat all sides (press gently if needed to help the bread crumb mixture adhere). Chill for at least 20 minutes or up to 12 hours before frying.

In a heavy large pot, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat until it registers 375°F on a deep-fry thermometer.

Shortly before the oil comes up to temperature, make the salad. In a large bowl, combine the lettuce, almonds, and pickled peppers; drizzle with ⅔ cup of the vinaigrette, toss well, and season to taste, adding more dressing, if needed. Distribute the salad among four plates. Sprinkle a bit of salt and pepper on the avocado chunks and divide them among the salads.

Set a paper towel–lined plate next to the stove. Carefully transfer the mozzarella balls into the heated oil; fry until the bread crumbs are golden brown, 1½ to 2 minutes. Gently turn and cook on the second side for 1 minute more; transfer to the paper towel–lined plate. Season with salt. Place a freshly fried mozzarella half-ball on top of each salad and garnish with chives. Serve immediately.

with pecans, fresh cherries, dijon vinaigrette, and stilton blue

Say what you will about endive, to us, it’s just the right degree of bitter and a juicy, easy-to-work-with salad green. It does benefit from either something creamy or smoky to contrast its bitterness, which is why it’s one of our favorite things to serve or eat with a steak, and also why we add the blue cheese. Between the fresh fruit and the crunch, plus the rich crumbled blue cheese, this salad has the same elements as a cheese plate but in reverse proportions.

Endive is available almost year-round, but if it’s not cherry season quite yet, you can swap in thin slices of apple or pear.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR SIDE DISH

1 cup raw pecan halves

4 small heads Belgian endive

Dijon Vinaigrette

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1¼ cups pitted fresh sweet cherries, sliced

4 ounces Stilton blue cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup)

2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives

¼ cup Bing Cherry Puree

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Place the pecans on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until toasty and sweet, 6 to 9 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.

Separate the leaves of the endive by slicing off ¼ inch from the stem end and letting the leaves fall away, then separating with fingers. Transfer to a large bowl and drizzle with ½ cup of the vinaigrette; season with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Add more dressing, if desired.

Divide the endive among four plates or serve on one large platter, leaning and stacking the leaves atop each other. Carefully garnish each stack with the pecans, cherries, and Stilton. Sprinkle with chives. Drizzle the cherry puree around or atop the salad.

DIJON VINAIGRETTE

MAKES ¾ CUP

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon champagne vinegar

½ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a bowl, combine the mustard, vinegars, sugar, salt, and pepper. Slowly add the oil, whisking constantly. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. The dressing can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

BING CHERRY PUREE

MAKES 1¼ CUPS

1 cup pitted fresh Bing cherries, halved

1 cup sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a small nonreactive saucepan, combine the cherries, sugar, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce to a high simmer and cook until cherries are cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a blender and blend until completely smooth. Serve chilled or at room temperature. The puree can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

with calabrian chile and cured black olive relish, pine nuts, and chèvre

Unlike many salads that hinge largely on the season and what’s fresh and available, this is a dish you can extend through the year with a few small tweaks. The dressing—which isn’t so much a classic vinaigrette as a rustic chopped chile condiment—packs a ton of flavor, but the dish is still cool and refreshing enough to give relief from richness in other parts of the meal. In the spring, we make it with chilled snap peas instead of cucumbers, and through the winter, it works perfectly with jicama batons and sprigs of watercress. Take out the chèvre if you want to make the dish vegan.

Calabrian chiles are hot peppers from the south of Italy known for their unique fruity and briny flavors and the incredible heat they pack for their size. While you may see them in dried, flake form, for this recipe you want to use the jarred chiles packed in oil, which you can find in Italian or specialty markets.

SERVES 6 AS A STARTER OR SIDE DISH

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

To make the relish, mix together the olives, chiles, vinegar, oil, and salt, whisking until the salt is dissolved. Set aside.

On a flat dish or pan, spread out the pine nuts and roast until they are several shades darker but not yet browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and transfer to another dish; let cool completely.

Peel the cucumbers and slice into 2½-inch logs. Quarter the logs, then remove the seeds. Halve each spear lengthwise. Divide the cucumber spears among six plates or serve on one platter, stacking them slightly. Scatter the sliced strawberries over the top, then drizzle with the relish, evenly distributing the olives and chiles. Garnish with the chèvre, pine nuts, and mint. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt.

with shaved sweet onion, capers, bottarga, and cress

We could be very happy eating a tomato any time of day or night—breakfast, dessert, whenever—but especially when a steak is on the table. Few things work as well as ripe summer tomatoes to cut through the intense flavors of grilled beef.

Tomatoes also have a kinship with salt and salty ingredients, which is why we pair them in this dish with bottarga—a salt-cured fish roe enjoyed all around the Mediterranean. Also, because we can’t put anchovies in everything (even though Gabi would like to), we use bottarga, which is very similar in flavor and brings the same briny and bold qualities to a dish. If you have trouble sourcing bottarga in time (you can buy it online or in specialty markets), feel free to substitute anchovies. Finally, a touch of sweet onion—which is amazing with grilled meat as well—pops up every few bites to add pungency.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR SIDE DISH

3 to 4 heirloom tomatoes, cored and sliced ½ inch thick

Flaked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 small sweet onion (such as Walla Walla, Vidalia, or Maui), thinly sliced on a mandoline or with a sharp knife

2 large ribs celery, thinly sliced on a bias

Leaves from 1 small bunch watercress

1½ tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

1 teaspoon finely grated Meyer lemon zest (or substitute regular lemon zest)

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 ounce bottarga or minced oil-packed anchovies

Sprinkle the tomato slices with a modest amount of sea salt and a generous amount of pepper. Arrange them on a large serving platter so they slightly overlap. Scatter the onion slices over the tomato, then scatter the celery slices, watercress leaves, and capers on top. In a small bowl, mix the lemon zest into the oil. Evenly drizzle the oil over the whole salad. Thinly shave or finely grate the bottarga, tasting it to gauge its level of saltiness; distribute the bottarga atop the salad to taste. Grind some more pepper over the salad, and, only if needed, sprinkle a little bit more sea salt over the whole dish.

with mt tam triple cream and roasted tomato vinaigrette

Since we are lovers of a good bitter leaf, we always find a way to serve radicchio throughout the seasons, be it baked with cream in a wintry gratin or in this summery preparation with tomatoes and corn. Together with a bloomy-rind cheese, the summer vegetables add sweetness, and just the prettiest colors.

Certain fibrous, robust leafy vegetables gain a juiciness and lusciousness on the grill. Radicchio is a prime example, and a smoky char from the fire works beautifully with the leaves’ bitter flavors. You can grill up to 1 day ahead, then serve the radicchio at room temperature or rewarmed in the oven or a pan just before serving.

SERVES 6 TO 8 AS A STARTER OR SIDE DISH

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

To make the vinaigrette, spread the tomatoes in a single layer on a baking sheet and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil; sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt and roast until lightly dehydrated, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the vinegar, the remaining 10 tablespoons oil, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper; add the roasted tomatoes and toss gently to combine. Let sit 10 minutes, then taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

Prepare a grill to medium-high.

Place the radicchio quarters and corn cobs on a baking sheet and drizzle with oil, tossing to coat all sides; season with salt and pepper. Transfer the corn to the grill and cook, turning occasionally, until the kernels are tender and lightly browned, with just a touch of darker char, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove and let cool slightly. Slice the kernels off, keeping the strips intact, and set aside.

Place the radicchio on the grill with one of the cut sides down. Cook until the leaves start to wilt and lightly char, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn each piece onto its other flat side and repeat. Remove and let cool slightly. Slice away the stems so the leaves no longer hold together.

On a large serving platter or individual plates, arrange the radicchio and arugula leaves, then top with the corn kernels. Spoon the vinaigrette over the top, making sure to evenly distribute the tomatoes. Garnish with the cheese wedges and the slices of shallot.