Jam Session

Peaches and Nectarines

For many of us, peaches are the quintessential summer fruit. Fragrant, juicy, and beautiful, they are best for eating out of hand (maybe over the sink) but are also good for preserving.

Peaches originated in China and made their way to the Mediterranean via Persia. Thus their Latin name is Prunus persica. European settlers brought them to America, and today they are widely cultivated in many parts of the country.

Peaches and nectarines are technically the same fruit with only one single gene of difference—the one that gives peaches their fuzz. When ripe, peaches are easily peeled by dipping them in boiling water for a minute or two and then in ice water. Nectarines rarely need peeling, as their skin is so thin and fuzz free.

Peaches have a softer texture than nectarines and are more fragile and bruise easily. Nectarines are hardier. But taste the flesh blindfolded and you’d have a difficult time distinguishing between a fully ripe nectarine and a ripe peach. For everyday eating, store them at room temperature until they are fully ripe. They will resist mold if you keep them well spaced on a sheet pan or platter so they do not touch. If you have bought too many, store them in the refrigerator to slow spoilage (but they will lose their perfume). You should not store them for longer than 1 week. For preserving, buy them when they are firm-ripe and aromatic.

Both fruits come in clingstone and freestone varieties. The early-season fruits are mostly clingstones and need to be cut from the pit in chunks. Freestones open with a twist and easily release from their pits when you cut them at their natural seams. Both come in white- and yellow-fleshed varieties. The white-fleshed ones are very sweet but rather one-dimensional in flavor and low in acid. They are best for eating but do not make a dynamic preserve. The yellow-fleshed fruits are deeper in flavor and have greater acidity. Every preserve you can make with peaches you can also make with nectarines.

White nectarine varieties to look for include Arctic Glow, Arctic Rose, Snow Queen, Heavenly White, and Arctic Blaze.

For yellow nectarines, try Flavortop, Fantasia, Flamekist, Le Grand, Zee Glo, August Red, or Ruby Gold.

White peach varieties are Babcock, Snow King, Arctic Supreme, and White Lady.

For yellow peaches, look for Sun Crest, O Henry, Flavor Crest, Cal Red, Rio Oso, Elegant Lady, Summer Lady, June Pride, Summerset, Crimson Lady, and Indian Blood.

Flavor affinities for peaches and nectarines are vanilla, citrus, ginger, cardamom, almond, berries, lavender, lemon verbena, and mint.

This is a very old-fashion jam. It is very smooth, a little dark, and a bit cooked in flavor, but that is the way prior generations liked it (and maybe how you remember it). Today we tend to cook our fruit for shorter amounts of time and do not puree peaches very often, preferring a chunkier texture. This one’s for those of you who are sentimental.

Bring a stockpot of water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Peel the peaches by dipping them in the boiling water for a minute or two and then dunking them in the ice water. The peels should slip off. If not, use a peeler with a serrated swivel blade to remove the peels. Halve the peaches, remove the pits, and chop the flesh. You will have 6 to 7 cups. Crack the pits with a hammer if you can.

Put the pieces of peach and their pits in a stockpot, along with the 1 cup water. (You can omit the pits, but keeping them in adds a subtle almond flavor to the jam.) Simmer until the fruit is soft. Drain and discard the pits. Press the peaches through a food mill or place in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to puree. You will have about 3 cups of puree.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set a stockpot on the stove and fill it with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

In a large preserving pot over medium-low heat, combine the puree, 2½ cups of the sugar, and the lemon juice and stir until the sugar dissolves. Taste and add the lemon juice, remaining ½ cup sugar as needed, and the vanilla extract.

Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens and passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft set that is neither runny nor stiff. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pot. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pot to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed jam for 6 months to 1 year. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

I am constantly disappointed in supermarket jalapeños. They seem to be bred for looks and size, taste like bell peppers, and no longer have much heat. Now when I make guacamole or salsa, I use serrano chiles, as they still have some zip. With the addition of the chiles and lime, this jam becomes sort of a peach salsa. I might not give it to young kids for pancakes or put it on breakfast toast, but it sure would be great with cream cheese, spread on a chicken or ham sandwich, or dolloped onto a pork chop or duck breast. In other words, this jam has character.

Bring a stockpot of water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Peel the peaches by dipping them in the boiling water for a minute or two, and then dunking them in the ice water. The peels should slip off. If not, use a peeler with a serrated swivel blade to remove the peels. Halve the peaches, remove the pits, and dice the flesh. You should have 6 to 7 cups.

In a large preserving pot, gently combine the peaches, sugar, and lemon juice and toss to mix. Let sit for a few hours or overnight to macerate.

In a small food processor, pulverize the peppers with the ginger and salt. Add to the peach mixture. Stir in the lime zest and juice.

Bring the peach mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until the jam has thickened and passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft set that mounds on the plate and is not runny. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pot to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed jam for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Peach Melba combines vanilla ice cream with poached peach halves and raspberry sauce. I never tire of this classic dessert, as it is a perfect balance of creaminess, sweetness, tartness, and perfume. The last time I served Peach Melba, I decided to try combining peaches and raspberries in a jam, because they work together so well in that dessert.

Peaches take longer to cook than the berries, so you start them first and add the raspberries at the end of cooking. The berries will break down a bit, but it doesn’t matter. If you are a purist, you can instead make a basic peach jam (see this page) and a basic raspberry jam (see this page) in two separate pots and combine them when both have set.

Add Peach Melba Jam to yogurt, spoon it over vanilla ice cream or panna cotta, or spread on toast.

Bring a stockpot of water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Peel the peaches by dipping them in the boiling water for a minute or two and then dunking them in the ice water. The peels should slip off. If not, use a peeler with a serrated swivel blade to remove the peels. Halve the peaches, remove and discard the pits, and dice the flesh. You will have 6 to 7 cups.

In a large preserving pot, gently combine the peaches, sugar, and lemon juice. Cover the pot and let it sit overnight to macerate.

The next day, place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Bring the peach mixture to a boil over high heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the jam starts to thicken.

Add the raspberries and return to a boil, then decrease the heat to medium and cook until the jam passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft set that mounds on the plate and is not runny.

Taste and adjust the flavor balance, adding a squeeze more of lemon juice or a few tablespoons of sugar if the raspberries are very tart. Return to a boil and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Taste and add the vanilla or almond extract. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pots. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 10 minutes,. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed jam for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Given peaches’ Chinese origin, I think of peaches and ginger as a classic flavor combination. At my Asian supermarket there are two kinds of ginger: the young, pink, thin-skinned Hawaiian ginger that is delicate in flavor and available for only a month or two, and the hardier regular ginger, which has a bit more bite and is available year-round. So it is up to you to decide how intensely gingery you want this jam to be. As another variable, instead of grating the ginger you may use ½ cup of julienned ginger. I find the texture contrast appealing.

Serve as a topping for ice cream or rice pudding, or as a condiment for pork and duck.

In a large preserving pot, gently combine the peaches, 2½ cups sugar, and the ginger; toss to mix. Let sit for at least a few hours or overnight to macerate.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Bring the peach mixture to a boil over medium-high heat; then decrease the heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until it thickens. Taste and add another squeeze of lemon and the remaining ½ cup sugar if needed. Simmer a few minutes longer. Do the plate test (see this page). The jam is ready when it achieves a soft set that mounds on the plate and is not runny. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pots. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

— For Peach and Cardamom Jam, veer toward the Middle East and substitute 2 to 3 teaspoons of ground cardamom for the ginger.

In Sicily, peaches are called persiche because they supposedly came to Italy from Persia. Some would call this preserve a marmellata because of the sliced lemons. Blanching the lemon slices tames their bitterness and softens them a bit so they cook in the same time as the peaches.

At the end of cooking when you do the final tasting, you may decide to stir in some vanilla extract, but I think that Fiori di Sicilia or orange-flower water would be more in keeping with the peaches’ origin.

To use, spread on toast, stir into yogurt, or spoon over pound cake or almond cake.

1 large Eureka or Meyer lemon, halved, sliced paper-thin on a mandoline, slices cut into quarters, and seeds removed

1 to 2 tablespoons Fiori di Sicilia, orange-flower water, or a mixture of vanilla extract and orange-flower water, to taste (optional)

In a large preserving pot, gently combine the peaches and sugar and toss to mix. Let sit for a few hours or overnight to macerate.

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Drop in the lemon slices and blanch for 1 minute. Remove with a wire skimmer, rinse with cold water, and repeat twice. (Meyer lemons may need only one blanching to soften and lose their bitterness.) Add the blanched lemon slices to the peach mixture and stir to combine.

Place two baking sheets on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Bring the peach mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, decrease the heat to low, and simmer until thick, stirring frequently. Taste and add lemon juice, as needed. Cook until the preserve passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft set that mounds on the plate and is not runny. Stir in the Fiori di Sicilia extract, flower water, or combination of flower water and vanilla extract. Taste again. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the preserves into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed preserves for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

One or two serrano chiles or jalapeños can be used instead of or in addition to the cayenne. True Aleppo pepper may become a thing of the past. Maras pepper is grown just across the border in Turkey, and the two are interchangeable.

Use this as you would any chutney: with curries, on ham and cheese sandwiches, and as a condiment for roasted poultry or pork.

Bring a stockpot of water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Peel the peaches by dipping them in the boiling water for a minute or two and then dunking them in the ice water. The peels should slip off. If not, use a peeler with a serrated swivel blade to remove the peels. Halve the peaches, remove the pits, and dice the flesh into 1½-inch pieces. You should have 15 cups.

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the ginger, garlic, onion, lime or lemons, and 1 cup of the vinegar and pulse to puree. You will have about 2 cups of puree.

In a large preserving pot, gently combine the peaches, ginger-garlic puree, cayenne, ras el hanout, black pepper, Maras or Aleppo pepper, cinnamon, five-spice powder, cumin, salt, and mustard seeds, stirring to mix well. Stir in the lemon juice or lemon grass, sugar, and the remaining 2 cups vinegar. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then decrease the heat and simmer until thickened but still juicy, 20 to 30 minutes.

Add the raisins to the chutney and simmer, stirring frequently (to prevent the raisins from sinking and scorching), until thickened. The raisins will drink up some of the liquid, so do not overreduce the chutney. If the chutney seems dry, add more vinegar or water until the mixture is syrupy. Do a plate test (see this page). Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the chutney into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed chutney for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

When I had my restaurant, Square One, we started a Fourth of July tradition of serving pickled peaches with our fried chicken. Now my family insists that we have these peaches in the pantry, because we eat fried chicken more than once a year.

Bring a stockpot of water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Peel the peaches by dipping them in the boiling water for a minute or two and then dunking them in the ice water. The peels should slip off. If not, use a peeler with a serrated swivel blade to remove the peels. Ideally, you can leave the peaches whole and still fit them in your wide-mouth quart jars. But if they are too large to fit through the mouth of a jar, cut them in half.

Combine the vinegar, 1½ cups water, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, lemon zest, and peppercorns in a medium nonaluminum saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Decrease the heat to low and simmer the syrup for 10 minutes.

Poach 3 or 4 peaches at a time in the syrup for 2 minutes. Then, using a slotted spoon, transfer the peaches to the jars. Spoon the hot syrup over peaches, leaving 1-inch headspace. Distribute the cinnamon sticks, cloves, and lemon peels among the jars. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pots. When the water returns to a boil, set the timer for 20 minutes, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed peaches for 6 months to 1 year. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

— For White Wine Vinegar Syrup: Make a syrup of 4 cups white wine vinegar and 4 cups granulated sugar. Add 2 teaspoons whole cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 teaspoon pickling spice, and slivers of fresh ginger.